Looks like prices are dropping, I ordered mine for U$3,050.00 delivered and here is another vendor on Ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7949624019&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Actually that has been their price for a while now. I got my turbo kit from them a few weeks ago. They were great. Very fast shipment. If you go on their website to order it it is actaully $10 cheaper. Not a big deal, but I guess you can get a happy meal with that turbo. If anything I see the prices going up. I hear that Greddy is cracking down on "posted" prices so if you are looking somewhere else you may want to call them and see if they are willing to haggle.

Eh, so I paid 3290 for mine.. but hell, someone had to be the guinea pig right?

Small price to pay for being numero uno , and becoming a legend on the forum . :rolleyes: ;)

cheers
michael

I just watched the video you posted again and I have to say I havent seen a better launch since I watched this video of a 450 hp skyline. It's perfect! Very nice.... This skyline hit the rev limiter in first and carried so much speed as he shifted into 2nd and finally third..

Damn do you tear it up.. Very nice :)

I just watched the video you posted again and I have to say I havent seen a better launch since I watched this video of a 450 hp skyline. It's perfect! Very nice.... This skyline hit the rev limiter in first and carried so much speed as he shifted into 2nd and finally third..

Damn do you tear it up.. Very nice :)

Thanks, though I was taking it very easy on the launches.. I had winter tires on at the time. I also didn't want to burn out the stock clutch that night either :p

A little birdie just told that our stock OEM seals are good for 13 PSI of FI.

A little birdie just told me that I should be rich and famous.
I guess I'll settle for good looking. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/smiles/stfu.gif

I take it your birdie is running 13 PSI at the moment?

LOL

I was up at the dealer getting a quote on installing my flywheel, and I asked the master mechanic about it. Is he pulling my leg?

No the little birdie is not boosted, he said that is what MNAO told him. Hey Jeff, I got Ryan to fix the thread name over at RX7club :)

HEY JON
any work on that password yet? (did i miss it?)

we've heard from other MNAO sources that 7psi is all it can take...(sorry i can't reference the source, im too damn tired to find it, but it's on here somewhere...)

7 may be safe and 13 the max...

What the hell are you doing up this late? West coast hackers get the last word here ;) The little birdie that told me this is going to get quizzed on Wed....

Late? 'Tis only 1am. My day is peaking.

This thread is sooooo BIG now it is crazy.

Well my motor is finally done and I will be getting my car back on thursday. So this weekend I might start the kit. As long as I dont get the same CEL I have have been getting for the past 3 months.

-Ryan

Have any 1/4 mile or 0-60 times been posted by new Greddy Turbo owners yet?? If so can someone post the thread.

Have any 1/4 mile or 0-60 times been posted by new Greddy Turbo owners yet?? If so can someone post the thread.

Kind of hard to do so since there's still snow and ice all over the ground where I live... will probably have to wait until the spring so I can get to the drag strip

Here is a few pics the dealer sent me!

Here is a few pics the dealer sent me!
Nice. Is that the new motor or the old?

Good to see they feel free to use your car as a coaster...

..and then take a picture of said coaster and mail it to you. what the hell?! :eek:

Nice. Is that the new motor or the old?

Good to see they feel free to use your car as a coaster...


That is the brand new block. Yeah the guys at the shop are cool. It has got blankets and stuff so its all good. Plus they are going to warrant my car after the turbo. Just got to tip them ;) . :eek:

the tech just called and said she runs!!!!!! should get her by friday :D . man 7 weeks w/out my 8. Will be nice to ride in her again. Turbokit time!

You are so lucky. Can't wait to hear about your numbers.

First they use your car for a coaster. Next they will use the turbo as a vacuum cleaner to spruce up the shop.

Please be gentle to her in the begining!!!

what did that gray market warranty set you back?

im considering doing the same since my dealer gets all fired up when i talk about how i really drive that car

can i inturrupt?
two things.

1. Rotary Extreme (Chuck) has this turbo kit for 2800 plus ship

2. does anyone know if I need to take off my SR underdrive pulleys and restore stock pulleys when i put on the greedy?

2. does anyone know if I need to take off my SR underdrive pulleys and restore stock pulleys when i put on the greedy?

Sure, it's a common typo, but I still think it is funny!

(I need to get out more.)

:D

~ Matt

so which 'little birdie' is right?

so which 'little birdie' is right?


:p I wasn't able to confirm my little birdies source yet...

Your little birdies assertion is gratuitous.

The 13b seals were good for significantly more than that and the Renesis seals are better than those.
Add to that the issue that not too many Renesis' have been taken to 13 PSI yet (the fuel system can't keep up with that), and you have no data points for such an analysis.

Good to see they feel free to use your car as a coaster...

That's funny! That was the first thing I saw when I looked at that pic.

why mazdatrix is not selling the turbo no more?

Anybody?

Your little birdies assertion is gratuitous.

Oh trust me, I was the first one to question that as soon as he said it. I didn't beleive it also. I'll go give him the thumb screw.

maybe shawrf1 could chime in here about the oil pan, his car has one.

and i think that the best way to go. no messing with heaters or long drain lines to the nether regions of the engine bay. just a nice clean pan. and the extra capacity wont hurt either.

I guess I'm a few pages too late on this one (this thread is hard to keep up with), but here's the oil pan with the oil return line and how my catch can is installed (routed from the intake, to the catch can, back to the oil filler neck). I can't take credit for the install.

Hope that helps.

Like I stated in another thread, I've had the kit for 3 months and ~1500 miles. No problems w/the turbo kit and it's daily driven. ;)

Rob

Like I stated in another thread, I've had the kit for 3 months and ~1500 miles. No problems w/the turbo kit and it's daily driven. ;)
Rob

Whoa.. 3 mos and 1500mi without a hiccup?? That's encouraging! Stock Maps?? Wouldnt that make you the first one, before Jon?

Whoa.. 3 mos and 1500mi without a hiccup?? That's encouraging! Stock Maps?? Wouldnt that make you the first one, before Jon?

Yes. But Jon still holds the title for the first down & dirty, self-installed, paid-for, mass-produced turbo on the market... kudos! And yes, I'm using stock GReddy maps. In fact, everyone's map was tuned and copied from the one I have.

Rob

1. Rotary Extreme (Chuck) has this turbo kit for 2800 plus ship

Man, & I checked their website before I ordered, it said $3295 (on sale). Damn, I though I was getting a good deal at $2929.

Yes. But Jon still holds the title for the first down & dirty, self-installed, paid-for, mass-produced turbo on the market... kudos! And yes, I'm using stock GReddy maps. In fact, everyone's map was tuned and copied from the one I have.

Rob

Wow.. sweet. so we have you to thank as the turbo guinea pig, if you will! :D

I'm curious.. did you or are you planning a motor teardown to see what effects, if any, the turbo is having on the Renesis... or have you seen?

what did that gray market warranty set you back?

im considering doing the same since my dealer gets all fired up when i talk about how i really drive that car

I tip them every time I go there usally 20 bucks. And I said to the tech " I want a turbo kit how would you feel?" he replied "Fucking right get that bitch and I will help you put it on!". I asked him about the warranty and he still was like "fuck it I will push it thru" Also I am going to give them all $200 bucks for doing all that they have done for me.Really nice guys and it is hard to find that these days:) .

-Ryan

Guys, Especially Philodox and Mazda Maniac.
I completed installing the Greddy turbo kit to the specifications to which were on the translated instructions. Everything sounds great when the car is stationary and even while revving the engine. However, here is when I started having problems. When going out for a quick test drive. The engine sounded like it was drowning when reaching about 5 k in second gear. We have not messed with the Emanage, because it is suppose to be already pre-set. My mechanic thinks it may be because the BOV has not been installed yet and is not letting the presure release quick enouph. The "Check Engine" light also came on now. Any takes on this problem?

The engine sounded like it was drowning when reaching about 5 k in second gear............ My mechanic thinks it may be because the BOV has not been installed yet and is not letting the presure release quick enouph. The "Check Engine" light also came on now. Any takes on this problem?
No expert here but, from what I can gather, the BOV would have an effect only when you go off boost, and flow will revert its path and go back through the turbine housing (slowing it...)

Guys, Especially Philodox and Mazda Maniac.
I completed installing the Greddy turbo kit to the specifications to which were on the translated instructions. Everything sounds great when the car is stationary and even while revving the engine. However, here is when I started having problems. When going out for a quick test drive. The engine sounded like it was drowning when reaching about 5 k in second gear. We have not messed with the Emanage, because it is suppose to be already pre-set. My mechanic thinks it may be because the BOV has not been installed yet and is not letting the presure release quick enouph. The "Check Engine" light also came on now. Any takes on this problem?

I had the CEL come on for me as well soon after install. The metal gasket GReddy provides that connects the air pump hose to the downpipe is wrong. Don't use it. Instead use the stock metal gasket for the air pump hose. The diameter of the hole for air is too small with the Greddy gasket. The stock gasket will work perfectly. The CEL you probably have is "Secondary Air Flow - Bad" or something like that.

Thanks, I will try that right now!

... and how my catch can is installed (routed from the intake, to the catch can, back to the oil filler neck).

That is how it should be installed - that gets rid of vapor and moisture.

I asked him about the warranty and he still was like "fuck it I will push it thru" Also I am going to give them all $200 bucks for doing all that they have done for me.Really nice guys and it is hard to find that these days .

-Ryan

Which dealer is that? I might want to start using them.

Ya seriously...what dealership is that??? :) Only competent dealership I've found, that embraces mods (as long as they aren't breaking stuff) is about a 6-8 hour drive from MD =/.

Btw Jeff, nice car :). It'll be nice in the spring/summer when we actually have sunlight and not a LED flashlight to see the engine bay.

Btw Jeff, nice car :). It'll be nice in the spring/summer when we actually have sunlight and not a LED flashlight to see the engine bay.
Thanks! I think I'll bring one of those halogen worklights with me to the March meeting. :D

I had the CEL come on for me as well soon after install. The metal gasket GReddy provides that connects the air pump hose to the downpipe is wrong. Don't use it. Instead use the stock metal gasket for the air pump hose. The diameter of the hole for air is too small with the Greddy gasket. The stock gasket will work perfectly. The CEL you probably have is "Secondary Air Flow - Bad" or something like that.


Philodox, It didn't work! Still doing the same thing :confused:

That is how it should be installed - that gets rid of vapor and moisture.



Which dealer is that? I might want to start using them.


Fitzgerald Mazda

Bob is my tech! He rocks to the max.
Let me know I will hook you up with him.

can i inturrupt?
two things.

1. Rotary Extreme (Chuck) has this turbo kit for 2800 plus ship

2. does anyone know if I need to take off my SR underdrive pulleys and restore stock pulleys when i put on the greedy?

Their site shows the price as $3695, and the "special price" at $3295. Is he giving us a nice break?

Philodox, It didn't work! Still doing the same thing :confused:

I dunno man.. Hard for me to say without looking at your setup. You said it bogs down when you get on the gas right? It could be the MAF sensor is going wild. Sitting so close to the filter the air can get kind of turbulant which would give the MAF sensor funky readings. If you look a bunch of pages back, you'll see what I did to fix that part by using the wire mesh screens that came from the stock airbox. Find the pic in this thread and give it a shot. If you have a hard time finding it, just "search this thread" from the toolbar near the top of the page.

-Jon

There are a number of possible causes - open or leaking pipes to and from the intercooler, improper routing of the air lines that were hooked up to the OEM intake pipe, leaking BOV, open vacuum line somewhere, etc. Those are just somce of the issues from installing the kit. There could also be other mitigating problems that existed prior to the install - bad plug or plug wire, failing or clogged oil injection pump, etc.

I'd start with a complete reset of the ECU and then get at least four drive cycles in with no boost under any circumstances.

Jeff & Jon, the little birdie divulged his source today about the 13 PSI. It was part of the classroom training to become a master mechanic on the Renesis at Irvine. He said the 13 PSI was in their training text for the maximum safe level of boost. He also said that sure, the seals will take a hell of allot more boost, but after all the testing on blowing engines down there, they settled on 13 PSI as the max safe boost with OEM seals. He got to watch them blow one up. He said the entire building was vibrating just before it blew.

He also showed me where our trannies are failing. Its the plate that keeps the main shaft from moving back and forth. It's a small part that is not very thick. He said it was a weak design, and the outside edges fracture and allow the main shaft to move. He said you can fix it without opening the tranny up pretty simply.

He said to wait a year or so, and we will all be surprised what is coming our way. He said the USDM MS8 will be boosted to about 8-10 PSI, but it is down the road aways behind the Mazdaspeed 6. That is what corporate told them at school.

for real

Shit the bed!

What great info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wish the UK forum was as good as this one...........

So, injectors willing, 13psi boost should give an easy 100whp with the Greddy kit (if the turbo can puff that flow at high rpm & keeps charge temps in check).

Some nice tuning should see 300rwhp (that's without even thinking abot Nitrous).

I'm going to have a happy nightshift just contemplating :)

Now I just want MORE INFO :D

yes please more info!

Jeff & Jon, the little birdie divulged his source today about the 13 PSI. It was part of the classroom training to become a master mechanic on the Renesis down at Irvine. He said the 13 PSI was in their training text for the maximum safe level of boost. He also said that sure, the seals will take a hell of allot more boost, but after all the testing on blowing engines down there, they settled on 13 PSI as the max safe boost with OEM seals. He got to watch them blow one up. He said the entire building was vibrating just before it blew.

He also showed me where our trannies are failing. Its the plate that keeps the main shaft from moving back and forth. It's a small part that is not very thick. He said it was a weak design, and the outside edges fracture and allow the main shaft to move. He said you can fix it without opening the tranny up pretty simply. He told me that if I wanted a better tranny, to drop in the Mazdaspeed Miata tranny. It bolts right up. They added triple syncros to the 1-2 and the 3-4 shift. The exact place that has been discussed at length in different threads where owners experience problems.

He said to wait a year or so, and we will all be surprised what is coming our way. He said the USDM MS8 will be boosted to about 8-10 PSI, but it is down the road aways behind the Mazdaspeed 6. That is what corporate told them at school.

Wow.. thanks for the information. I'll keep my ear ready in case i hear any news about the MS8 as well. Now you're certain he said 13psi right? Now I feel a lot more comfortable bumping up the boost levels. I think the GReddy kit would be good up to 12psi before it begins to produce more heat than boost.

In the future, I'm going to be looking into finding a bigger 'blower' section of a turbo and see if I can bolt it to the T618Z. Who knows.. maybe it can be upgraded with just a blower section so I can get more boost.

12 i think is good is 300 to the wheels

I think that is a little optimistic on the 300 to the wheels. Probably more like 280 because the max theoretic hp is about 308, but that is not including inefficiency, heat generated, tuning, etc.

[(Boost/14.7)+1] x Stock whp

should give you maximum theoretical whp numbers for your level of boost in psi.

Now you're certain he said 13psi right?

Yes, I made him repeat it several times just to be sure. :D

I told him that ever since he said 13 on Tuesday it was bugging the crap out of me.

Could you just STOP it you guys. Please, you can't predict hp from boost.
You can't, you can't. Your formula doesn't even allow for density delta IE heat rise. You can't do it. :confused:

Pressure is not mass. Your not even deducting for the power to drive the compressor. And if you come back and tell me it's free becuse it is wasted exhaust heat then I quit. :eek: :eek:

I know RG gave up trying, I might too.

OPTIMISM RINGS ETERNAL!
cant blame em for trying.

Could you just STOP it you guys. Please, you can't predict hp from boost.
You can't, you can't. Your formula doesn't even allow for density delta IE heat rise. You can't do it. :confused:

Pressure is not mass. Your not even deducting for the power to drive the compressor. And if you come back and tell me it's free becuse it is wasted exhaust heat then I quit. :eek: :eek:

I know RG gave up trying, I might too.
I can't argue with that.

By this logic it seems awfully strange that my old '88 RX-7 made about 100 hp more than my friend's '89 T-II RX-7. I was running 10 psi to his 10 psi. Of course his turbo could fit inside of mine and so could his ports and his intercooler! But hey, boost pressure is always equal to the same boost pressure right? ;)

I've got to get that plot from Airflow Research showing the four different blowers in a comparison test. All with 7 psi. My blower made 70 HP more then the next guy. :cool:

Hymee, you have that plot, don't you? If you can find it you can post right? You have all that computer know how. I guess I can find it around here someplace and buy a scanner. ;)

But post it on my thread, I'm hurting for posts behind philodox. We were neck and neck in the stretch but he's got me by a nose.

Nemesis,

Which dealer does your birdie work at? I prefer University, but Milam is WAY closer :)....though I would never go to Milam for major work.

Nemesis,

Which dealer does your birdie work at? I prefer University, but Milam is WAY closer :)....though I would never go to Milam for major work.

I'll PM you

I'll PM you
Hey Nem. can you P.M. me as well?

Thanks

I believe what you said about the tranny weak point. But about the Miata tranny, it will not bolt in, (bellhousing pattern is wrong) and the RX8 tranny already has triple cone synchros.

I believe what you said about the tranny weak point. But about the Miata tranny, it will not bolt in, (bellhousing pattern is wrong) and the RX8 tranny already has triple cone synchros.

OK, thanks - I'll go back today if I have time and apply the thumb screw again to see what he meant. He did say that it was different. Maybe I'll sneak my camera in for a photo of that part. I'm going to have to slap a dead president in his hand for this info. ;)

i just finish my greddy turbo kit too
i like it a lot

Hi. I'm a n00b. :)
I read through some of this thread and I think it's very helpful. You guys really know what you're talking about! There were a couple of things I had heard about regarding the GReddy turbo kit. I think most of this stuff might have been covered but I still had some questions for the guys with F/I RX-8's:

Any problems with rough idle, poor throttle response, stalling, or bogging?

Have any of you turbo guys tried using the cruise control? It seems like the minor corrections that cruise control makes could be the difference between boost and no boost, depending on what RPM you're at. That could make for a pretty rough ride.

Thanks in advance for any help you guys could give. And please excuse my n00bness. I have to learn sometime.

i just finish my greddy turbo kit too
i like it a lot

Can you really feel the difference?

So has anyone had any problems with the kit im intrested in getting it but i would like to know if there was any problems with it i read alot about it in here but dont have the time to read all the post please let me know a.s.a.p so i know if i should order it let me know if you all think it is worth it and ....problems along with ...

a friend of mine who lurks here put down 248hp with the greddy kit on his 8.

thats pretty good

a friend of mine who lurks here put down 248hp with the greddy kit on his 8.

What did he dyno at stock? Be nice to know how much extra he's getting out of the kit.. More info!! :-)

philox are thinking of raising the boost ????

248whp = 240whp....differences of 8 peak hp could be the result of atmospheric conditions, spark plugs...may factors. I've seen (not with my rx8, but a previous boosted car) 7hp from simply changing old (3 weeks old) spark plugs for new plugs, on back-to-back dynos.

good info

248whp = 240whp....differences of 8 peak hp could be the result of atmospheric conditions, spark plugs...may factors. I've seen (not with my rx8, but a previous boosted car) 7hp from simply changing old (3 weeks old) spark plugs for new plugs, on back-to-back dynos.

Also, the stock car hp differences are all over place I think the car that got 240 whp started at 174 whp. My car had 179 whp, and some stock dynos I have seen are at 185 whp. Tough to get a consistent baseline for this car. Not to mention many different kinds of dynos. These should be seen as approximate not exact examples of hp gain from the turbo releases.

Also, the stock car hp differences are all over place I think the car that got 240 whp started at 174 whp. My car had 179 whp, and some stock dynos I have seen are at 185 whp. Tough to get a consistent baseline for this car. Not to mention many different kinds of dynos. These should be seen as approximate not exact examples of hp gain from the turbo releases.

Exactly - People forget that a dyno is a snapshot in time of what a car produces, Id Est, a dyno run shows what 'that' car produced, on 'that' day, under 'those' conditions, on 'that' dyno. I don't care HOW much validity people put in 'Corrected' dyno numbers, nothing can replicate. FlyinMiata claims corrected HP for their turbo/sc kits...why? they are at 5000 feet or more in altitude. Frankly, most people I know dyno a bit less - even corrected.

(shrug).

People shouldn't put too much stock in what a particular dyno session tells them.

FYI, RX8garage.net now has the least expensive price that I have seen. With "Gold" pricing it is $2928. $1 less than www.city-speed.com.

Exactly - People forget that a dyno is a snapshot in time of what a car produces, Id Est, a dyno run shows what 'that' car produced, on 'that' day, under 'those' conditions, on 'that' dyno. I don't care HOW much validity people put in 'Corrected' dyno numbers, nothing can replicate. FlyinMiata claims corrected HP for their turbo/sc kits...why? they are at 5000 feet or more in altitude. Frankly, most people I know dyno a bit less - even corrected.

(shrug).

People shouldn't put too much stock in what a particular dyno session tells them.
I agree with that. For the most accurate results you should use uncorrected. Many people don't live at sea level on a 60 degree low humidity day. Uncorrected numbers tell you what your car is putting out right now, right here. That's what matters. Corrected numbers are good for bench racing. I might as well say that my car would have much more power if our atmosphere was as dense as Jupiter's and therefore I'm going to correct for it. I'm not there though so it doesn't matter.

...close but I can only imagine.

:p :p :p

all i know right now is that number...248. and i only mentioned it to provide some consistency in what we're seeing here. 248 might as well be 240 or 238 or 251 or whatever.

the pull was done on a dynojet, id guess in the mid 70's ambient. ill know more on thursday when i go take a look at it :D

(ps - lets not turn this into another dyno X rates higher than dyno Y battle)

OK so it's lighter. Maybe I should have said Venus instead.

FYI, RX8garage.net now has the least expensive price that I have seen. With "Gold" pricing it is $2928. $1 less than www.city-speed.com.

Ordered mine from him this weekend. It should be on it's way here.
Add me to the "boosted list".

ordered mine from chuck at rotary extreme for 2800
said he is selling out his tubos "at cost"
maybe, but feel i got the best price i could find.
wonder what prices will be like in a year when all the people are boosted?

Damn, that's a great price. Chuck is a real good guy. Usual prices I see are somewhere between $2900+ to $3300. Make sure that all the pieces are there. My mechanic wound up fabbing me one of the pipes because it was missing. In talking with some of the 350Z guys they miss parts too. The build quality is top notch, the assembly (of all the parts into the boxes) has turned out to be spotty.

hey fred...
youve bee awefully quiet about YOUR turbo...how's it going?

hey fred...
youve bee awefully quiet about YOUR turbo...how's it going?

Who me?

Who me?

No that's for me RG. Actaully I was expecting it back last week, but a few things went wrong here & there.

1) The kit was missing one piece of the piping. So they had to fab one up for me.

2) Thre is no provision in the kit for a BOV, so they had to make one. Only
problem is when they did that they drove it up & down the street & it stalled.
Found out the BOV was letting the gases go too fast so the maf sensor freaked
out. My mechanic just made the hole smaller.

3) The IC brackets were too thin so the IC was flopping back & forth. My
mechanic (and I agree with him) thought this might damage the IC if it rubbed
against bumper the wrong way, so he fashioned a couple steel brackets that
now hold my IC on very securely.

Should be picking up the car tomorrow (fingers crossed). Probably putting the rims & tires on a bit later (still trying to figure out what to do with the TPMS, nobody wants to tough those.

wow, the wonderful world of aftermarket...hope it goes better!
btw, fred, i ordered my turbo and is shipping tommorow.

i get mine tomorrow

wow, the wonderful world of aftermarket...hope it goes better!
btw, fred, i ordered my turbo and is shipping tommorow.

Good luck Rudy. You may want to open your box & make sure all the parts are there. Chuck over at Rotary Extreme is a real good guy. Unfortunately you won't be able to use your RE intake anymore. Welcome to the turbo club (you to ttt) & I hope you are posting dyno #'s too. Let us know how the install goes. Are you getting a BOV. Greddy has 3 types, the Type S, new Type RS, & big Type R.

So once your turbo is installed does the mechanic that puts it in now become your life long partner for any problems you may have? Mazda wont touch the car anymore right?

Is it a possiblity that Greddy could come out with an upgraded turbo (a bigger one) to put on this kit to increase the hp? Seems as though the compition has claims to higher hp gains... Just curious before I make my decision which FI to go with.

I don't think anybody has had the turbo kit on long enough to know whether or not their dealership will have a problem with the car. I agree with you thet they probably will. I have pretty much given up any notion of warranty work on my car the minute I bought the turbo kit.

I don't really see Greddy coming out with an upgraded turbo for this kit. Just the fact that this kit comes with a pretty small IC (probably good for a couple more lbs. of boost or about 300 whp max), and no additional fuel injectors I can't see an upgrade kit unless it includes additional parts (upgraded fuel injectors/fuel system in addition to the turbo). The weak point of this car is the fuel system. The turbo is said to be good for up to 400 hp.

Honestly after getting this kit I did not realize the extra expenses involved with putting on the turbo kit. The labor, the gauges, the guage pod, etc. Even at $2900 for the kit, it has wound up costing me a pretty penny. I just can't imagine if the kit was $5000-$6000 then throw in all this stuff.

thanks for the heads up fred.
i talked with chuck last night and he said he will check it before it goes out today, but he did not sound commited. i can only hope for the best. fabbing parys while your 8 is all broken up and waiting sorrowfully for you to come to the rescue can really be a heartbreaking experience for both parties!
he also sold the last one at that price and im hoping its in tac
im no going to be able to put it on until weather warms...my freind the gearhead is afraid of the cold (violins please!)
warranty no, more fun and money spent yes.
any opinions on best bov? i was looking at a hybrid valve from a couple of companies. also, the s type from greddy seems popular.
also, there is some discussion on the best place to mount it...what did you do fred?

also, good luck ttt!

Well everyone. After a hell of a time tring to get the base map from GReddy, they finally sent it to me. I'll post a download link here as soon as I can upload it to my website. Just look for it there in the downloads section. Check around 1pm EST.

On behalf of all other GReddy tubo owners -- THANK YOU!!!! :D

Okay guys, got it uploaded. You may download it here at this link:

www.turborx8.net/downloads/US_TK_RX8_12_30_04(new)_.GSC

**EDIT** You will have to cut/paste the link for it to work **EDIT**


DISCLAIMER: I accept no responsibility for this map. It is "as is" from GReddy. Any problems with it should be directed to GReddy. Thanks.

It says it needs some sort of molecular biology software to open a .GSC file

It says it needs some sort of molecular biology software to open a .GSC file
You need the Greddy Support Tool.

iam in my living room waiting for my turbo from fedex

it should be here today, Iam going to install it myself and with my uncle who is a mechanic

It says it needs some sort of molecular biology software to open a .GSC file

You need the GReddy Emanage software to open it. You also need the same software to load it onto your emanage unit.



it should be here today, Iam going to install it myself and with my uncle who is a mechanic

You're a brave man if you're doing it youself without a lift.. ask Jeff (MazdaManiac) how much of a pain in the ass it was

i have a ramp

You're a brave man if you're doing it youself without a lift.. ask Jeff (MazdaManiac) how much of a pain in the ass it was
Indeed, though you get used to the pain medication after a while...

Well, I just opened that E-MAnage file and there are a BUNCH of weirdnesses.

First, the file gives a strange "error" when it is opened. It reads: "The old format was replaced with new format. The Air Flow/Throttle Adjustment Setting was initialized." I don't know what that means.

Second, they have the VTEC function enabled. Why? I don't know why.

Third, they are using the Nissan Hot-Wire 2 AFM setting for the VG motors. This is rotary switch setting A01. Why they are doing this is strange because the E-Manage now has a setting for the RX-8 (SE3P) AFM.

Fourth, they have one of the A.A.V. values (2000 RPM) tweaked to 20%. This will REALLY screw up the maps.

Fifth, opening and then closing the Airflow Adjustment Map cause and "Input Error".

Sixth, at 9000 RPM and 3.6 PSI of boost, they have an additional injecton value that suddenly plunges to 4 from 43. That would be a real problem.

Seventh, the sub-injector map is only plotted out to 6500 RPM. What happens after that?. Not good.

In conclusion, I believe this map is a fake. It is, at least, completely unuseable.
I wonder why they gave this to you? It might have been made with the newer v. 1.20 of the Support Tool, but this is meant for the new E-Manage "Gold" (v. 1.42) which you do NOT have.

Even so, this would not explain the fact that this map appears to be set up for the 350Z and has dangerous holes in it.

^^^
Sabotage!

where is it ?

perhaps it was a corrupt file...

or simply just the wrong one?

yes i just got it right now

it should be here today, Iam going to install it myself and with my uncle who is a mechanic
TTT, youre in the Seattle area right?

You should have an "open house" installation so us PAC NWer's can come and watch/drool.:)

florida, north fort myers

just drove a turbo'd 8. wow. totally different car. i cant describe it in words...just, wow :D

good wow or bow wow?

(tell me now, my greddy is in the mail!)

oh, lol good wow

it was a strange feeling, as I don't think i'd ever been in a car that was that fast and that quiet, even with catless midpipe and sp2 exhaust.

now I want to see a Greddy Turbo dynoed at the same time as the SFR/SSR turbo see the difference between the two...then I'll decide where my money goes (well after some durability tests of both units of course)

thanks! thanks! (was it a greddy turbo?)

oh, lol good wow

it was a strange feeling, as I don't think i'd ever been in a car that was that fast and that quiet, even with catless midpipe and sp2 exhaust.

It's really something else isn't it? I had to learn how to drive it all over again.. which I didn't mind one bit!

hey jon

where did you mount you bov? using the "S"?

He has a site with alot of install pictures. http://www.turborx8.net/
This picture is from there.

thanks...now that i see it i realize i saw that part of thread (read the whole thing...took me WEEKS)

Two things I'll be doing to my own turbo kit will be to re-fab the Rotary Extreme intake box so I can use it with the GReddy and to re-circulate the BOV. I am also having a custom air filter mount made to use the Blitz SUS filter instead of the GReddy Airinx.

CRH

Two things I'll be doing to my own turbo kit will be to re-fab the Rotary Extreme intake box so I can use it with the GReddy and to re-circulate the BOV. I am also having a custom air filter mount made to use the Blitz SUS filter instead of the GReddy Airinx.

CRH

CRH, I don't know if this is a good place to post this, but you have me wondering...

I wonder if Racing Beat will sell their cold air ram duct portion of their upcoming complete intake as a separate piece? JimL at RB said:

"..we have developed a Ram Air Duct that replaces the stock Variable Fresh Air Duct (VFAD) located under the front bumper. Testing has shown an increase in inlet air pressure and a reduction in air temperature that should add a few more horsepower at high speed."

Would this help your customized Rotary Extrem/Blitz setup?

No, because I am still using the stock duct and vacuum valve/solenoid combo. The system flows great and is nice and quiet. I am not really sure if I want to mess with it yet.

CRH

What tellls the solenoid to open? Is it RPM based?

What tellls the solenoid to open? Is it RPM based?
Yes.

Jon
I am getting my Greddy turbo insatlled in 2 weeks by ACOSTA Motorsports. What did you mean when you said that you had to learn how to drive the car again ?

Jon
I am getting my Greddy turbo insatlled in 2 weeks by ACOSTA Motorsports. What did you mean when you said that you had to learn how to drive the car again ?

It's like going from a put-put motorscooter and then riding and track ready Ducati Motorcycle.. night and day.. You have to learn how the car drives all over again.. Not quite sure how else to explain it.\


Also, why are you going to Acosta? Save yourself $600+ in intsallation charges and use my mechanic Jim at JPR Imports in South Jersey.

Philodox I ODERDER MY TURBO TODAY...IM TRYING TO KEEP UP WITH THE THREADS BUT DID U SAY U HAD A PROBLEM WITH YOUR E MANAGMENT FROM GREDDY
ALSO YOUR MECHANIC IS GREADT I SPOKE TO HIM TODAY THANKS FOR THE INFO .... IF YOU HAVE A.I.M COULD U PLEASE IM ME IF YOU GET A CHANCE LIKE TO TALK TO YOU DIRECT THANKS
S.N. BOOTSOLDER21
THANKS

If 60 whp gain is enough for you to say that it's like going from a put put scooter to a race bread motorcycle, then what is giong from the GReddy kit to SSR :)

From a carolla to a Mclaren F1 :)

If 60 whp gain is enough for you to say that it's like going from a put put scooter to a race bread motorcycle, then what is giong from the GReddy kit to SSR :)

From a carolla to a Mclaren F1 :)
Well, based on the current reality, it is like going from a Ducati to a dentist's chair: motionless and riddled with anxiety.

Actually, the 40 HP or so more that the SSR is claiming will not be as noticible as the first 60 given by the Greddy.

I just got my kit the other day, and have opened, inspected, checked off the parts, and wiped off the drool.

Now...other than the WB O2 socket, are there other specific tools or needs to complete this?

Also, I have started analysis and price shopping on gauges, BOVs, tuning kits, etc. Subjective opinions are welcomed! (PM or public discussion for those of us gearing up...perhaps a separate thread: "The compleat GReddy RX-8"? ;))

(And many, many thanks Jon, for your invaluable service as guinea pig for all of us...)

I just got my kit the other day, and have opened, inspected, checked off the parts, and wiped off the drool.

Now...other than the WB O2 socket, are there other specific tools or needs to complete this?

Also, I have started analysis and price shopping on gauges, BOVs, tuning kits, etc. Subjective opinions are welcomed! (PM or public discussion for those of us gearing up...perhaps a separate thread: "The compleat GReddy RX-8"? ;))

(And many, many thanks Jon, for your invaluable service as guinea pig for all of us...)

You'll need the wrench to take off the oil pressure sensor. A standard socket or crescent wrench will not fit properly. If you use the wrong tool, you may break it Jon = Broke it.. hehe..

Well, based on the current reality, it is like going from a Ducati to a dentist's chair: motionless and riddled with anxiety.

Actually, the 40 HP or so more that the SSR is claiming will not be as noticible as the first 60 given by the Greddy.

Just being a smart ass.. dont mind me :)

Thats why I am leaning towards the GReddy kit myself. I would rather have a system that produced good power that was extremely reliable, then a system that produced more power but kept me leary about pushing the system...

Must... resist... boost.... temptation... ARGH! :p

Must... resist... boost.... temptation... ARGH! :p
Resistance is futile. You will be assimilated.http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/smiles/icon_ohyeah.gif

Well Iam Installing The Turbo Kit Right Now But I Need Help Please. What Is The Transverse Member The Instruction Is Telling Me To Remove It. Where Is It Please Give Me Details How To Do This Please.

Here's what you need.
I'd suggest getting a shop manual or some help before going forward with the rest of the install.

You'll need the wrench to take off the oil pressure sensor. A standard socket or crescent wrench will not fit properly. If you use the wrong tool, you may break it Jon = Broke it.. hehe..

Ah...right. Thanks for the heads up (again)! You're my hero!

I am going to be doing this in my garage, up on four jack stands (next to the BOSS 351 I'm restoring ;) ). I've had her up like this before (changing the gear oils to Red Line), and had a fairly reasonable amount of room to negotiate. While I was under there, I rolled around and scoped out the view and layout from underneath the engine. Like you've said, it will be a bit tight, but I don't see any major issues in working things into place. Just gonna go slow and pay attention. So I'll have my ADD meds close at hand! ;)

My plan is to gather my thoughts (and parts), and break the project into a few hours at a time. No need to rush since I can drive the SUV to work and snag parts or tools.

When I finally get the plumbing trial fitted, I'm going to mark the pipes and take them to have the fittings welded on for the BOV (recirc style, not to atmosphere). From the pictures, the tubes appear to be in very close proximity near the front center of the engine compartment. I hope for it to be a short and sweet run back to the other side, angled down and away from the MAF.

Still on the fence on gauges and mountings, because I want them to be useful and well placed, yet blend in. NOT scream "FAST-N-FURIOUS". I love the Defi gauges, but they're so pricey. Still mulling over location, either way. I'm thinking of fabricating a shelf from the bottom of the dash where the NAV would be and mount them there.

Off to try and score an oil sensor socket...

It's good to see some people with the time/courage to tackle this themselves. It is a very rewarding experience! PM me if you need any assistance. Also you can really get away with 2 jack stands instead opf up on all fours.

Thank You Guys. If I Have More Q I Will Ask, Thank You Again.

Ok my question is did everyone that bought this greddy turbo kit have to buy a BOV.... I thouhgt came with it..... .I'm new to this thanks for any replies.....

I Bought One

it does not come with one, greddy put on on their show car, so i would say get one especially if you ever plan to up the boost. However, i did drive my car around without any problems without one for 2 weeks. It's up to you....welcome to the club.

since I'm not going to read the 60 some pages since you got it installed, are there any problems with the kit so far?

well, i would suggest reading the thread. But my only problems so far have been a few cels, one for the secondary air injection, and lately one for misfiring, but i believe that is from when i first started the car up again and fouled them. Secondary air one is recurring, i'm currently trying to chase down the cause, tried replacing original gasket and still came back...so i guess i've got a way to go. no driveability problems though and the cels are for no essential things (can't pass emissions anyway with the turbo)

Secondary air CEL is because of secondary MAF (RPM >5000 rpm) exceeding limits. If you have an ECU tuner, take down the voltage on the MAF input. This is a symptom that your BOV is working too well. Rapid decompress chills MAF below spec. Turbos with higher low end boost do this normally to MAF and you have to change sensor outputs to compensate.
Check out some of the Aussie turbo threads to learn more.

please guys let me know where is the oil pump

i need help from you guys you are the only one that could help me

i need help from you guys you are the only one that could help me

check your pm.

beers

anyone picking up fuel pressure(volume) regulator related codes? our car doesn't even have FPR does it?

I've started a thread for Greddy turbo install questions here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=731195#post731195)
Mostly to deal with the vacuum hoses, but if you have questions in any other sections , please post it here also.

I have been getting that same code about fuel volume. I too am stumped. If anyone has any ideas i would greatly appreciate it.

iam stuck helllllllllllpppppppp

iam stuck helllllllllllpppppppp

check pm again, need email.

beers

Can't miss it:

hey jon, did you ever tune some of that bogging out with a better tune?
and
are you happy with your type s bov?

going from vacuum to boost isn't the problem, it's from boost to vacuum.. I found a way around it from playing with the throttle though. with the Greddy kit, if the transition from boost to vacuum is quick there isnt any problems.. it's when it's a gradual transition from boost to vacuum that I find it bog down. It's something that I'll definately try to tune out of the maps when I start fiddling around with optimizing performance.

Thanks for the input epitrochoid

hey jon, did you ever tune some of that bogging out with a better tune?
and
are you happy with your type s bov?

Tune out what bog? There is no bog. I think what you are referring to is in that very first video i made of the car idling where my foot slipped off the gas.

I did have a slight hesitation coming on the gas from being at idle, but when I put the wire mesh screens from the stock air intake in front of the MAF sensor it cleared it up.

And yes, I am extremely happy with the BOV. If you get a turbo without a BOV you're nuts. It is causing me no trouble at all. I love it

Well, I'll be turbocharged soon enough. I am going to try and get the shop that is doing the install for me to get it done by Friday because I have an event this weekend and I would love to have it ready. I would just install it myself but the shop offered to do free labor so I can't give it up.

I have been getting that same code about fuel volume. I too am stumped. If anyone has any ideas i would greatly appreciate it.
ill let you know if I hear anything

i found the oil pump thank you . thanks mazdamaniac.

now iam in the last part where you are with the down pipe adapter there is no room for you to turn the nuts or even move what in the world should i do. and the bolts that greddy gives you it did not bring all of them i only got two so what iam going to do is go and get the same bolts at home depot or something

now iam in the last part where you are with the down pipe adapter there is no room for you to turn the nuts or even move what in the world should i do. and the bolts that greddy gives you it did not bring all of them i only got two so what iam going to do is go and get the same bolts at home depot or something

They're double sided threads right? You've got them in backwards. The shorter ends go in first. The longer ends stick out so the nuts will fit.
Don't know where you can find extra ones.

He's saying that there is no room to thread the nuts on, he is talking about the limited area around the dp in which to move. He's right, its really tough to get them on there, lotsa time and a few socket joints should do the trick. Goodluck, its worth it.

thanks right now iam working with a short ranch trying to do the job. is it hard to install the e-manage?

thanks right now iam working with a short ranch trying to do the job. is it hard to install the e-manage?

The hardest part of the emanage is figuring out where to put the emange unit itself. The wiring harness is a peice of art. It's truely plug and play.

I put it in my glove compartment.

Jon, sorry for another idiotic question, but I heard that the e-manage is not plug&play. On the contrary, its tricky to set it up, while the canzoomer unit is ready to go. I know that they are basically the same thing, but there must be a difference... Am I totally wrong?

The Turbo kit E-manage comes with a custom plug, and play harness

^^which can also be purchased serpately from greddy

^^which can also be purchased serpately from greddy

Has anybody checked to see how much it would be by itself?

The unit is straight plug & play & comes with it's harness. Not complicated at all. Of course they had the wrong software on mine. But there is absolutely no programming involved.

You can get an empty E Manage unit for around $230. Software is about another $100, and they have even more upgraded software that would allow you to fine tune the timing & A/F forabout another $150.

Anyone cracked the password on the Greddy turbo eManage yet?

Anyone cracked the password on the Greddy turbo eManage yet?

Omicron, look at a post I made a few pages back, it has a link to the unpassword protected map i have on my website.

Omicron, look at a post I made a few pages back, it has a link to the unpassword protected map i have on my website.

Is it really only 6 KB (or am I missing something ?) & Does anyone have a program that can run it ?

help me where is the ECM fuse? thats all i need and iam ready to go

please sombody

Okay guys, got it uploaded. You may download it here at this link:
www.turborx8.net/downloads/US_TK_RX8_12_30_04(new)_.GSC

**EDIT** You will have to cut/paste the link for it to work **EDIT**


DISCLAIMER: I accept no responsibility for this map. It is "as is" from GReddy. Any problems with it should be directed to GReddy. Thanks.

I've checked out this file and it's coming from the eMange gold version running firmware 1.40 and required Greddy support tools software version 1.20 to open properly. Look like there is a accelleration map & NVCS auxillary output setting that had values put in but were disabled. On top of it, the add. injection and sub injector map is mapped against relative pressur (kpa) which need the Greddy Boost sensor plugged in.

So if Greddy Turbo kit doesn't include a Greddy Boost Sensor with it, I high doubt this map is the right one for the RX8, especially the rotary setting of A01. Like mazdamaniac mentioned earlier, this look like the map for the Z, not our 8!

The kit does come with the boost sensor.

m

I've checked out this file and it's coming from the eMange gold version running firmware 1.40 and required Greddy support tools software version 1.20 to open properly. Look like there is a accelleration map & NVCS auxillary output setting that had values put in but were disabled. On top of it, the add. injection and sub injector map is mapped against relative pressur (kpa) which need the Greddy Boost sensor plugged in.

So if Greddy Turbo kit doesn't include a Greddy Boost Sensor with it, I high doubt this map is the right one for the RX8, especially the rotary setting of A01. Like mazdamaniac mentioned earlier, this look like the map for the Z, not our 8!
It did seem like the "gold" version, though Jon has the regular "blue" model, version 1.39. This program wouldn't work on his car if he installed it.

I map against relative pressure, also. It is easier than converting pressure sensor voltage values in my head.

thanks right now iam working with a short ranch trying to do the job. is it hard to install the e-manage?

Be careful with the short ranch because it can have wild horses and donkeys!!!

Careful when working with ranches!!!
:D

The kit does come with the boost sensor.

m

So the kit include the boost sensor, then it would explain a few thing regarding why Greddy wire the channel 5,6,A,B to the secondary primaries injectors. Because these two injectors should not be in operation below a certain rpm, by wire them to channel A & B, they can fire up these injector below the stock rpm point. At the same time, the Additional map would have the additional correct value (by wire to channel 5 & 6) and be able to control these injectors in a relative manner. This in theory, once they have the correct factor set in the sub-injector, they can littery just alter the other additonal injection map without having to deal with controlling the second primaries separately. So after 6500rpm (this is where the sub-injector map end), the correct factor value in the last cell in the sub-injector map would carry out to redline. While the additional injection map is fine tune from 1000 to 9000rpm. So cell (11,16), that had the value of 4.0 (25kPa@9000rpm) would be a mistake, probably it should of been 44.0, I can imagine that I would type 4.0 missing a 4 and over look it. If not, this is super weird!

As for the VTec setting, they enable the NVCS function probably to control the variable intake to open a certain valve early because they are making changes to the second primary injectors. They turn on at @ 4kPa to 69kPa between 1200rpm & 4900rpm, and off there after. By looking at the sub-injector map, they start to tweak the injection at 5kPa from >=2500rpm, and at >10kPa from >=2000rpm. It does explain why the VTec is enable on purpose.

The only problem that now concern me is the AVV setting at 3000rpm, they set it to 20%, and 4000rpm 0... so if the MAF wire is spliced, then this would affect the MAF signal @2000rpm from 0% slowly increase to 20% at 3000rpm, then slowly drop down to 0% at 4000rpm. Againt, looking at the sub-injector map, the value between 2000 & 4000rpm are very distinct compare to > 4000rpm. This might have something to do with tricking the stock ECU during these rpm so the the ECU would make correction to the ignition timing since Greddy didn't hook up the ignition wire? might be, but I'm just speculating :p

As for the A01 setting, since they do not wire up the ignition, instead of providing an RPM signal circuit (would translate to extra cost), they just tweak the unit to other setting so it would just pickup the full RPM from one ignition wire instead of half RPM signal. This I got to test it out.

It did seem like the "gold" version, though Jon has the regular "blue" model, version 1.39. This program wouldn't work on his car if he installed it.

I map against relative pressure, also. It is easier than converting pressure sensor voltage values in my head.

Me too, I can only understand relative pressure, no voltage crap for me. Which lead me to another adventure of re-writing the support software :)

I got a hold of the software version 1.20 (probably uncomplete), though it didn't come with the US resource .DLL, so I rename the JP to use in conjuntion with the US language. From what I've heard there're rumors that the hardware in the Gold & the Blue version are exactly identical; if this is the case, we might be able to trick the software version 1.20 to update the Blue eManage running firmware v1.39 to v1.40. Since I don't want to mess up the my Blue eManage, so I will be writting an emulator and loop back the communicate back the the software version 1.20 and try to analyze if the communication protocol are the same for both version 1.1 (1.39 firmware) and 1.2 (1.40 firmware). if they use the same protocol, I'll donate my Blue eManage as genie pig :D, and in theory if it doesn't work, I would be able to restore to firmware 1.39 as long the eManage still accept the firmware update command.

The attach screenshoot is what I've been working on:

I put it in my glove compartment.
I put mine behind the compartment box like this :D

i flooded my car

just try the unflood technique. Depress the pedal fully to the floor and crank the engine over a few short bursts at a time. Putting the pedal all the way to the floor cuts the fuel in the engine. If that doesn't work, do the same thing with the sparkplugs removed, have an extra battery handy or a charger. Worked great for me, i didn't need to remove the sparkplugs either.

m

Or, you can just wait about 2 or 3 hours while the fuel evaporates then try to start it.. that's the more "traditional" method of fixing a flooded engine.

i already took it to the dealer

Jon, why are you trying to tune your e-manage ...is there a problem or jsut want to better tune it ????

Where did you get the pan from?



I guess I'm a few pages too late on this one (this thread is hard to keep up with), but here's the oil pan with the oil return line and how my catch can is installed (routed from the intake, to the catch can, back to the oil filler neck). I can't take credit for the install.

Hope that helps.

Like I stated in another thread, I've had the kit for 3 months and ~1500 miles. No problems w/the turbo kit and it's daily driven. ;)

Rob

lol shaw's car was the one greddy prototyped the US spec kit on

Jon, why are you trying to tune your e-manage ...is there a problem or jsut want to better tune it ????

I plan on tuning it for 9psi.

9 is a good number...:)

i have a Q why cant you put full throtle? i try and it feels like it looses power is these turbo lag or my E-manage is bad. By the way my E-manage the active is green and the interaction is flashing is that normal or what.

i have a Q why cant you put full throtle? i try and it feels like it looses power is these turbo lag or my E-manage is bad. By the way my E-manage the active is green and the interaction is flashing is that normal or what.

My interaction LED is always flashing too. I think that's normal.

thank you

i have a Q why cant you put full throtle? i try and it feels like it looses power is these turbo lag

^^ You need someone who knows how to diagnose and tune your car in your area. You are not prepared for what is needed to maintain an aftermarket turbo system on a complex car like the RX-8.

i got the greddy turbo kit it should come tuned

Yes it should come tuned but its all relative. Its partially tuned, plus you are an early adopter like the rest of us. We are here to work out the bugs. I am getting my car to a point were it doesn't bog when you floor it. But it has taken some work and luck :) I would find a rotary specialist in your area perferably someone who does performance type upgrades on all types of rx7. I am a gearhead but this is my first turbo car. I am use to tuning V6 and inline 6 Z cars so it has been a learning experience.

i could drive it right

Jon, did you publish your dyno sheet? If so where is it. RG and myself have been kicking something around and want to examine it.

In my opinion the problem at full throtle is that the boost is not constant..............
On my car I check the boost gauge and in full throtle we lose boost........

A boost controller would improve the full throtle respond..........

Manuel

Jon, did you publish your dyno sheet? If so where is it. RG and myself have been kicking something around and want to examine it.

Yup, it's a BUNCH of pages back. I'll email it to you Richard so you don't have to go digging in the thread.

Omicron, look at a post I made a few pages back, it has a link to the unpassword protected map i have on my website.Cool, I'll find it Jon. But you having an unprotected map doesn't do any good unless one can upload it... ? :confused:

Cool, I'll find it Jon. But you having an unprotected map doesn't do any good unless one can upload it... ? :confused:

I think Jeff was able to load it. but I believe you need the newest version of the support tool to do so.

I plan on tuning it for 9psi.

Really... you know it's funny... I ran across a post by you in another thread from late last year...


Well, as some of you know, I am in the process of installing the Greddy kit on my RX-8. The only problem I forsee is with the clutch life going bad a lot sooner than normally. I've smoked the clutch a couple times (wasn't paying attention one morning and feathered it out at 7500rpm!). I don't plan on going higher than 6.5lbs of boost. So I don't see the engine being blown. The transmission parts other than the clutch will be just fine, especially since I don't drop the hammer but once in a blue moon. You have to realize that there are other forum members that currnetly have turbo or 75 shots of nitrous in their 8's with no trouble. Again, time will tell. We'll see what happens.. There wasn't a catagory, but I don't expect that I'll blow an engine, but I do see my having to replace the stock clutch with a heavier duty clutch withing the next 4-6 months.

Just thought you might get a kick out of it... ;)

Just thought you might get a kick out of it... ;)

Haha.. yeah.. well.. I've given it some thought and it looks like the car will handle it with no troubles.. so I'll push it a lil bit.

That's kinda what I figured. Seeing the level that other places (SSR, Pettite...) are going to take their kits to, it probably won't be a problem.

With Philo's history in mind I must say that my personal limits of 7 psi and a 100 shot are only limits based on speculative engine tolerances. Of course, if the Renesis proves to handle all of that with ease I will "turn up the wick" as it were. Please don't throw it in my face if I end up with 12 psi and a 150 shot. :) Thank you.

CRH

^^ooo i would love to see that...hehehe:D

but why stop at 150:p

...if I end up with 12 psi and a 150 shot. :) Thank you.

CRH***DROOL!!!*** Go for it man! :D

With Philo's history in mind I must say that my personal limits of 7 psi and a 100 shot are only limits based on speculative engine tolerances. Of course, if the Renesis proves to handle all of that with ease I will "turn up the wick" as it were. Please don't throw it in my face if I end up with 12 psi and a 150 shot. :) Thank you.

CRH

Who'd throw anything in someone's face? Just more like it was funny (amusing) going from a firm limit when speculating, to being a bit more daring/ willing to experiment once you had the real deal in your hands. Nothing wrong with that... exactly for the reasons you gave. And while I feel bad for whomever does it first... someone blowing up their 8 will help to establish what the limits are for everyone else. So no... why should anyone want to throw anything in your face? :p

We all appaud you for being willing to take some risk, Charles.

Exactly. :D

I was being humorous and facetious at the same time. You guys know how there are some who just bash and flame people around here.....although you particular gentlemen do not, I had to make fun of those who do.

We're all friends, right.......? :)

CRH

do you guys know how much wheel horse power come out the greddy turbo kit, when you set it to 20 psi, or can someone try it :)

^^^^^^^^^^^
:p :p :p :p :p

lmao

do you guys know how much wheel horse power come out the greddy turbo kit, when you set it to 20 psi, or can someone try it :)
7 ¾ http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/smiles/icon_shrug.gif

Not a problem. Philo, why don't you just plug in your laptop and bring up psi, type in 20. Then post the results for this guy. :rolleyes: ;)

With 7 3/4 as an answer I think Jeff is looking for a job next to Nigel Tufnel in a haberdashery.

CRH

Or Alice in Wonderland. :rolleyes: ;) :D

Damn, Damn, Damn Jon's gonna beat me to 100 pages also. I hate you. ;)

I want to ask something to all the turbo-owners adn all the guys who are deep inside the turbo things...
If i am going to buy the greddy turbo kit and the mazdaspeed aftermarket radiator would it be any rpoblem if i keep my stock bumper with few modifications such as air hole in where the intake is located...Or removing the plastic where the licence plate is located...(I already have remover the l.plate-.custom billet grill)

I am asking cause i am ordering lip spoiler and canards soon and i already have billet grille and i really like my front but if i want to go turbo and also buy the ms radiator would it be everything ok or should i buy another front??? :(

I want to ask something to all the turbo-owners adn all the guys who are deep inside the turbo things...
If i am going to buy the greddy turbo kit and the mazdaspeed aftermarket radiator would it be any rpoblem if i keep my stock bumper with few modifications such as air hole in where the intake is located...Or removing the plastic where the licence plate is located...(I already have remover the l.plate-.custom billet grill)

I am asking cause i am ordering lip spoiler and canards soon and i already have billet grille and i really like my front but if i want to go turbo and also buy the ms radiator would it be everything ok or should i buy another front??? :(

On my kit I had to cut the plastic on the back of the bumper because the IC piping comes out a bit and pushes the stock bumper out a little. Not difficult just shave off a little plastic. Also the IC sits low, between the bottom of the front grill opening & bottom opening, so I am going to put my license plate back on as it will not impede airflow into the IC (it sits on the top of the grill opening). Honestly, the stock bumper does impede the IC's air flow in that the bottom plastic (between the grill & bottom opening) neatly dissects the IC in half. For best airflow for this unit you should get a Mazda Speed front end & it will be completely open. I like my stock front end though.

anyone know the easiest way to obtain these? is it a mazda only tool?

*edit* oops:o WB O2 socket and the wrench to take off the oil pressure sensor

anyone know the easiest way to obtain these? is it a mazda only tool?
Obtain what?

anyone know the easiest way to obtain these? is it a mazda only tool?

*edit* oops:o WB O2 socket and the wrench to take off the oil pressure sensor

Any "decent" auto parts store will have them. They are not a Mazda only tool. They are "part" specific tools. Most of the car companies use the same sized tool for standarization. However, the 2004+ model years have different sizes than the previous years.

i cut the wire and put it back together

it worked

That is one way to do it. Wont work for the oil pressure sensor, though.

Any "decent" auto parts store will have them. They are not a Mazda only tool. They are "part" specific tools. Most of the car companies use the same sized tool for standarization. However, the 2004+ model years have different sizes than the previous years.

I have tried every store in town: AutoZone, Checker, PepBoys and NAPA. Even Sears. Nobody has the correct tool. The have the 1 1/16 tool, but ours appear to be 22 or 23mm.

I have tried every store in town: AutoZone, Checker, PepBoys and NAPA. Even Sears. Nobody has the correct tool. The have the 1 1/16 tool, but ours appear to be 22 or 23mm.

I bought mine through Snap-On. I would think they wouldn't be that hard to find. If you have a mechanic, ask him if you can buy the tool through him. He'll know exactly what you need.

Got a Snap-On part number, Jon?

It is a 22mm. Just get a 22mm crows foot wrench.
It looks like the open end of a box wrench but with no handle. Instead, it will have a 3/8" socket hole.

And here I thought you got a special socket for the thing...;^)

Thanks Jon!!

(...feeling like a total idiot...)

JoeMamma
I got an 18MM socket for my old Mountaineer from O'Rileys. They didnt stock one, but they had one ordered and delivered the same day. One of the places you mentioned would do the same I would think.

Picture of a crowsfoot below. Joemamma, don't feel bad. I've never even seen these before. I was under the car the other day checking it out and there isn't much room in that area, this will work perfectly.

Well Jon, you made it. A record 100 pages. Congrats, salute, bravo, etc.

heh, I'll tell you congrats on the 1000th :D
something tells me this thread will go on forever...

rock on
this`is great!
thanks for all your posts. this stuff really helps all of us who "need help!"

yes sir

Complete stupid question- there's no way I can use my Canzoomer unit to manage the Greddy kit unless I wanted to competely write my own map, right?

^^ Already explained in DETAIL several times in the thread.

Mazda Maniac, be nice... there is 100 pages of posts to have to scan through to try to find what he is looking for, you could just say yes or no...

Yes or no would be the wrong answer in either case.

How about YOU say yes or no since you didn't provide the answer several times in detail for those with a little less motivation.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=53406&page=3&pp=15

you can use a canzoomer...the greddy turbo maps are floating around here somewhere.

After dynoing our cars in the West today, the Greddy Turbo is starting to look more interesting for me ;)

I didn't say yes or no because I had an idea on what the answer was but didn't want to be wrong and give false info, But I knew that you did... I wasn't trying to pee in your cheerios, just trying to make the point that the thread is getting extremely long, and it is easy to pass over a particular post, that is all...

you can use a canzoomer...the greddy turbo maps are floating around here somewhere.

According to Jeff (see the link he posted) you can't because the CZ can't control the fuel injectors directly.

HELP!!!

While coercing the wire loom for the ECU, one of the white wires (the one that goes to one of the two boxes) popped out. I suspect it was tucked in behind one of the black shrink wraps, and it doesn't look like it was a very good solder joint to begin with.

Could some kind soul please take a nice photo of the loom where that white wire goes in?

Thanks in advance............