Then he bitches to me about getting 12mpg.
Yea.. i was gonna ask.. i granny shift around town except in first.. i've found 1-2 is easier to plateau around 5k and then shift all the gears around 4k.. i skip 5th entirely tho..

Hey you two, I don't even know what those type numbers are but it sounds like alot of fun. Piss on highjacking the thread, lets hear more.
Maybe if everyone complains we could start a new thread for heavier then air flying machine bench racers.

BTW I went out for dinner and came back to 4 new pages. Man your popular.

Hey you two, I don't even know what those type numbers are but it sounds like alot of fun. Piss on highjacking the thread, lets hear more.
Maybe if everyone complains we could start a new thread for heavier then air flying machine bench racers.

BTW I went out for dinner and came back to 4 new pages. Man your popular.
hey richard, is your short shifter done? I have money :b

Yes, PM me.

thanks Ajax.

ok, so whats the warning light that pops on by the tach in the film ( 1:08 - 1:11 ) seems like when it revved up it lit up then shut off again? and then again at ( 1:34 - 1:37 ) but this time on the right hand side? Turn signals..
he changed lanes..
and then made a right...

edit: Np.. i had to watch it a few times at first when i saw that the first time.. the light on the left looked red but it's just the blurry camera..

Richard,

I have stories to tell about my heavier than air exploits. Maybe we need a whole new thread. :D

Yep, maybe we do Scud.
But right now I gotta talk to Jon. Now I know this is your first try at movie making but you need to take some artistic license. ;) It is boring, you need some girls. Next time get a girl with nice tits and have her give you some head while driving. :D Do the lighting a little different. Dim the dash and turn up the floods on the girl.
Fasten that lens cap. What is all that thumping? Do you have tar strips on the roads back there?

Listen to me the rating may go to R but you'll get more veiwers then with PG. ;)

When you go to the track have both outside taping as well as your inside camara. Leave the girl at the start line with all her pretty freinds to cheer you on and get their pictures jumping up and down.(No bras)

Then you can come west and be a movie producer. I'll introduce you around and hand out your tape. Give up that dead end job, flying around feeling free and happy. :rolleyes:

RP furthers his legacy of genius.

Now i know what those beer commercials are referring to when they talk about "real men of genius"

Here's to Richard, porno film director!

*drinks a beer*

Damn it! I get off work, go home, have dinner and the next time I log in I have to go through pages to find the video that everyone is raving about!






...Finally saw it :D :D :D Thanks for the ride! Good luck on Sunday. This thread is golden. Let's get back on track.

God I love California attitude RP you rock......a little porn producer in everyone :D

this thread rocks. i've been jus reading and staying out of discussion since i don't know anything about turbos, but philodox, let me tell you this: your rx-8 makes me wanna be its bitch.

just wondering Jon, but do you have any shots of the front of the car with a little more light. i wanna see how visible the FMIC is. Thanks!

very nice video made me turn red haha ...thank god for cable modem

Richard,

I have stories to tell about my heavier than air exploits. Maybe we need a whole new thread. :D

Go for it.. i'd be happy to read on that stuff ;)

just wondering Jon, but do you have any shots of the front of the car with a little more light. i wanna see how visible the FMIC is. Thanks!

hey just watched the video........nice! too much traffic though,

Favorite Quote:........is that a mustang?? :p

you gonna change the tires when you go to the track??you need traction :p

You can hardly see the intercooler in the light.. Once I get my Mazdaspeed Front Bumper, the intercooler will be like... "BAM!"... in your face.. hehe

It's raining like there's no tomorrow ouar right now so I can't take any pics (Thanks Jeff, I think you cursed me! lol...)

hey just watched the video........nice! too much traffic though,

Favorite Quote:........is that a mustang?? :p

you gonna change the tires when you go to the track??you need traction :pOh yeah.. winter tires aren't the best in the world.. but when the temp out here goes from 20deg F one day to 60deg F the next.. I can't keep switching wheels every day.

Which boost gauge is that? Defi?

Which boost gauge is that? Defi?

Yes, Defi BF series in white.. I didn't like how the Amber looks

Then he bitches to me about getting 12mpg.
Bah, I've never hid the fact I keep the revs around 3-5k all the time.l. that's HOW the car was meant to be driven.

It's raining like there's no tomorrow ouar right now so I can't take any pics (Thanks Jeff, I think you cursed me! lol...)
Ha ha! You got what we had last night - it just worked its way east.

It got so bad last night around 3:00am that I started rounding up pairs of animals.

At least tonight should be better.

Sunday is looking real good. Sunny and upper 30°s. I am surprised Atco is still open. Eveything else is shut down for the winter.

Ha ha! You got what we had last night - it just worked its way east.

It got so bad last night around 3:00am that I started rounding up pairs of animals.

At least tonight should be better.

Sunday is looking real good. Sunny and upper 30°s. I am surprised Atco is still open. Eveything else is shut down for the winter.

Yeah, they are only open on Sudays during the 'off season'. Going to call Atco later today to find out more info. I'll PM you and Mark so we can arrange something when I get more details.

philodox whats the temp. guage read now with the turbo is it running a little hotter then before????

philodox whats the temp. guage read now with the turbo is it running a little hotter then before????

the same, it hasn't changed at all. I do notice the car warms up in about half the time now. I'll know more once I get an accurate water and exhaust temp gauge installed.


On a side not, I drive about 30 miles all together last night. Before the turbo was installed, i would be at less than 3/4's tank left in fuel. After the turbo was installed, I am at well over 3/4's tank left... even with my foot 'in it' for most of that trip. I guess the e-manage is helping that out some ;)

Just a thought...are you afraid at all, of the turbo reducing the 'fun' of driving? With both of my previous cars, adding boost was fun for awhile...a few weeks...a few months...There came a time where I got too busy monitoring A/F ratios, boost levels, EGTs, Fuel Pressures, etc; became soo worried about knock...or the strength of the parts of the drive train; I became so preoccupied the love of just 'driving' the car left. The car become, officially, a 'project'.

:-/

Just a thought...are you afraid at all, of the turbo reducing the 'fun' of driving? With both of my previous cars, adding boost was fun for awhile...a few weeks...a few months...There came a time where I got too busy monitoring A/F ratios, boost levels, EGTs, Fuel Pressures, etc; became soo worried about knock...or the strength of the parts of the drive train; I became so preoccupied the love of just 'driving' the car left. The car become, officially, a 'project'.

:-/

Honestly, the only thing I am worried about is the stock clutch I have installed. I mentioned earlier that I am expecting it to last maybe 4-6 months more until I have to replace it. Running at such low boost I'm not worried about the stress on anything else in the engines drive train. GReddy did a good job with the tune of the stock maps for the e-manage. Just cruising around town and keeping the rev's under 4500 (yes, I do drive like that.. believe it or not.. lol) the boost never really kicks in if you're light on the throttle and the car won't lurch forward. I'm very pleased so far in the 'daily drivability' of the car in it's present state.

On a side not, I drive about 30 miles all together last night. Before the turbo was installed, i would be at less than 3/4's tank left in fuel. After the turbo was installed, I am at well over 3/4's tank left... even with my foot 'in it' for most of that trip. I guess the e-manage is helping that out some ;)
Hmm. I normally get about 50 miles the a 1/4 tank.
Yesterday, I used 1/2 tank in 80 miles. Maybe it was all of the drifting and donuts.:D

Just a thought...are you afraid at all, of the turbo reducing the 'fun' of driving? With both of my previous cars, adding boost was fun for awhile...a few weeks...a few months...There came a time where I got too busy monitoring A/F ratios, boost levels, EGTs, Fuel Pressures, etc; became soo worried about knock...or the strength of the parts of the drive train; I became so preoccupied the love of just 'driving' the car left. The car become, officially, a 'project'.

:-/
I think that Greddy has taken most of the worry out of Jon's kit.
I know what you are talking about - my MX-3 was that way. But, if you get it right, it doesn't have to be that way. I know my Miata isn't.

Hmm. I normally get about 50 miles the a 1/4 tank.
Yesterday, I used 1/2 tank in 80 miles. Maybe it was all of the drifting and donuts.:D

Yeah, but you see the way I drive.. I always keep it in the power band.. That's where my crappy gas milage usually comes from ;)

Honestly, the only thing I am worried about is the stock clutch I have installed. I mentioned earlier that I am expecting it to last maybe 4-6 months more until I have to replace it. Running at such low boost I'm not worried about the stress on anything else in the engines drive train. GReddy did a good job with the tune of the stock maps for the e-manage. Just cruising around town and keeping the rev's under 4500 (yes, I do drive like that.. believe it or not.. lol) the boost never really kicks in if you're light on the throttle and the car won't lurch forward. I'm very pleased so far in the 'daily drivability' of the car in it's present state.


I also felt like I was a shark -lurking the streets, hoping to catch a 'fish' (read: civic, mustang, etc.) who'd wanna 'run'...do you find yourself driving the long way home, in hopes of layin' some smack down? ~250whp in a 3000lbs car is a recipe for success, in most cases. :)

I knew that, but I had the position of the MAF all wrong in my head. The MAF is upstream of the turbo isn't it? Makes sense now...do you use a MAP sensor with this kit as well? This has probably been answered already...I thought I was keeping up with the thread but its growing exponentially!

jds

the BOV must go on the pressure side otherwise it cannot release the back pressure after you let off the throttle.



Also, I started to have some rough idle so I decided to do a little mod to the air filter before the MAF. I disassembled my stock air box and removed the wire mesh screens. I believe these screens are used to "clean" the turbulant air before it goes by the MAF sensor so it can get a good reading. I put these screens right after my air filter and before my MAF sensor.. and boom.. no more idle issues.. I'll edit this post in a little bit to show the pictures.. didn't have my camera with me today when I did it.. going to do it now ;)

I saw the video last night and I can't really judge it much since I have not pushed my 8 yet but it sure looked fast. I hope now that I saw Philodox's 8 I wont be disapointed with mine, but I don't think I will because I love it now even while babying it.

Some notes, questions, etc?

Phil, do you even use 4,5, or 6th gear? LOL...if you are complaing about, IF, fuel economy then maybe you should not cruise around town in the high 4K range all the time? LOL

I wish the sound was better because I could only hear the wheels, rotary burble, and "psst" Turbo sound just slightly over the guy in the back seat typeing a 500 page book, LOL. What was that constant clicking?

Mazdaspeed short shifter? I thought the RX8's shifter was already short...gosh, I'll have go go check it out.

Again, thanks for taking the risk and putting in all the work to bring us into this experiance. I hope your Turbo last for a LONG LONG TIME! Enjoy it and be careful now with your much more powerful RX8. Oh yeah, good luck on your test!

Predictions? Anyone have any? IF, Phil's RX8 is making 300HP at the flywheel then per the power to weight ratio it should be faster than the new Mustang GT (with 300HP @ 3500 pounds). Is it safe to say this?

RX8 with 300HP @ 3055 pounds vs a Stang with 300HP @ 3500 pounds should = RX8 the winner

13.5 1/4 should be the benchmark but I would suspect low 13's to come from this Turbo RX8. Keeping in mind tranny/gearing, lack of traction, etc you should be able to beat 13.5's. What does everyone think?

13.2 is what I expect if not slightly better

Phil, you might want to get fatter tires in the back to help your times. x by 9 should be good.

Thanks again for shareing and don't listen to Richard Paul...he has some issues...

Phil, ...
Phil's RX8 ...
Phil, ...

Reminds me of the movie "Groundhog Day"


Thanks again for shareing and don't listen to Richard Paul...he has some issues...
How wonderfully Xtian of you.http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/smiles/jerkit.gif

for what it's worth... 'predictions of power' are pointless...even worse, predicted FLYWHEEL HP...in a practical sense, Flywheel HP is worthless, as a number. Most of the time, people say things like "...and I estimate that to be about 300 at the crank" becuase the number '300' sounds more impressive than 'i've got 250 (or 275, or 200 -whatever) at the wheels..."

I applaud John(John, right?) for not being overly excited about predicting numbers yet... :) A couple of guesses, sure...but when we start magazine/numbers racing, it's borderline ricey.

:D

Mazdaspeed short shifter? I thought the RX8's shifter was already short...gosh, I'll have go go check it out.

Yes, You are correct... The 8 is a short shifter from stock.

The quarter mile slips should give us the information we need to know about "real" hps.
Then to see some dyno runs to see how it all hooks up. Dying to know how the torque
looks.

But it's always fun to speculate. Even though it only creates hype and
dissapointment. :D

I saw the video last night and I can't really judge it much since I have not pushed my 8 yet but it sure looked fast. I hope now that I saw Philodox's 8 I wont be disapointed with mine, but I don't think I will because I love it now even while babying it.

Some notes, questions, etc?

Phil, do you even use 4,5, or 6th gear? LOL...if you are complaing about, IF, fuel economy then maybe you should not cruise around town in the high 4K range all the time? LOL
Yeah yeah.. I know.. I hear enough from Mark (Polak) over IM. :p

I wish the sound was better because I could only hear the wheels, rotary burble, and "psst" Turbo sound just slightly over the guy in the back seat typeing a 500 page book, LOL. What was that constant clicking?
Sorry for the clicking.. the lens cap to my camera was banging against the tripod I had bungee corded to my drivers seat.. I'll be sure to secure it properly next time so we don't hear the clicking


Mazdaspeed short shifter? I thought the RX8's shifter was already short...gosh, I'll have go go check it out.
Yeah, the shifts from the MS Short Shifter is a little over 1 inch less from gate to gate. I love it. Looking foward to Richard Pauls shift kit though, his is solid aluminum which gives a better feel. The MS Short Shiter has a lot of flex in it.. still good, but could be better if the MS shifter didn't have flex in it.[/QUOTE]


Again, thanks for taking the risk and putting in all the work to bring us into this experiance. I hope your Turbo last for a LONG LONG TIME! Enjoy it and be careful now with your much more powerful RX8. Oh yeah, good luck on your test!
You and me both! It's a totally different car. It's a bit harder to drive when you get on it, especially since it's so easy to kick out the back end. I'm starting to get pretty good at modulating the throttle to prevent too much wheel spin.



Predictions? Anyone have any? IF, Phil's RX8 is making 300HP at the flywheel then per the power to weight ratio it should be faster than the new Mustang GT (with 300HP @ 3500 pounds). Is it safe to say this?
Yeah guys, I'd rather not speculate on anything until I can PRODUCE hard numbers. Stay tuned for those. Should have them within 2 weeks.

RX8 with 300HP @ 3055 pounds vs a Stang with 300HP @ 3500 pounds should = RX8 the winner

13.5 1/4 should be the benchmark but I would suspect low 13's to come from this Turbo RX8. Keeping in mind tranny/gearing, lack of traction, etc you should be able to beat 13.5's. What does everyone think?

13.2 is what I expect if not slightly better

We'll see :)




for what it's worth... 'predictions of power' are pointless...even worse, predicted FLYWHEEL HP...in a practical sense, Flywheel HP is worthless, as a number. Most of the time, people say things like "...and I estimate that to be about 300 at the crank" becuase the number '300' sounds more impressive than 'i've got 250 (or 275, or 200 -whatever) at the wheels..."

I applaud John(John, right?) for not being overly excited about predicting numbers yet... :) A couple of guesses, sure...but when we start magazine/numbers racing, it's borderline ricey.

:D

Well, my winter tires are sized 255/40/18 in the rear. A little wider, but not by much. See above /\ responce for my thoughts on speculating, I think it's best to wait until I can get hard numbers for you guys



The quarter mile slips should give us the information we need to know about "real" hps.
Then to see some dyno runs to see how it all hooks up. Dying to know how the torque
looks.

But it's always fun to speculate. Even though it only creates hype and
dissapointment. :D

Well, when I was in the military.. we had a saying.. "Assumption is the mother of all F#$K Ups".. Hopefuly the weather holds for this sunday and I can get to the track and get some 1/4 times for you guys

Well, when I was in the military.. we had a saying.. "Assumption is the mother of all F#$K Ups".. Hopefuly the weather holds for this sunday and I can get to the track and get some 1/4 times for you guys


I like you. :) Very nicely put.

Well, just went out and got another part for the turbo.. This time it's a GReddy Oil Catch can. Not only is it useful ;) But it dresses up the engine bay a bit more.. hehe..

we need to start a new forum section for FI RX8's, w/ member lists and call it The REDLINE Club. and the only way to become a REDLINER is to put FI on your 8. give them a special avatar badgeing or somthing.

Jon,

Have you checked out Racing Beats Metering Oil Pump modification for you 8 now that it's turboed?

http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm

Well, just went out and got another part for the turbo.. This time it's a GReddy Oil Catch can. Not only is it useful ;) But it dresses up the engine bay a bit more.. hehe..


pic?

Yesterday I said I would post pictures of the mod I did to the AIRINX filter that comes with the GReddy kit. Here they are. What I did was disassemble the stock intake box. I took the 2 wire mesh screens out. I used an industrial strength epoxy and glued the two screens together. Next I took that and attached it to the inside of the filter itself. The pictures explain everything.

Reasons for doing this. Well, for one.. the stock intake has these right before the MAF sensor. I believe they help "clean" the air and make it less turbulant as it goes over the MAF sensor. If the air is too turbulant going over the MAF sensor you can have very rough idle problems. I'm sure some of you with the SR Motorsports or K&N Intakes know what I'm talking about. Putting these screens on the AIRINX filter solves this problem. I was having the occasional rough idle but now that is gone now that I've done this little modification to the AIRINX system.

pic?

for the oil catch can? I am waiting for it to be delivered. I just bought it today. I'll post pics when it gets delivered and I install it ;)

What are you made of money haha.. :) I would sure love to be able to peal off 100 dollar bills anytime I wanted... Just sucks if you have to wait for it to grow back...

Jon,

Have you checked out Racing Beats Metering Oil Pump modification for you 8 now that it's turboed?

http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm
I'm not sure why anyone would do this since you can just bolt on the MOP from the low-power RX-8 which already flows more oil than the hi-power version.
Cheaper, too.

The other reason the idle might be rough on the Greddy kit is because the MAF is very close to the filter.
On the OEM application, there is more distance between the filter and the MAF, giving the air flow some time to become more cohesive.

I put a lot more distance on my suction pipe:

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/turbo/pipe_2.jpg

How wonderfully Xtian of you

What now? Well, what ever you meant really does not matter anyway. I’ll move on…

for what it's worth... 'predictions of power' are pointless...even worse, predicted FLYWHEEL HP...in a practical sense, Flywheel HP is worthless, as a number.

I understand that, it’s just what the manufacturer’s use flywheel HP so that’s the number I wonder about. I understand that whp is the better indicator.

I asked for predictions in fun, not to hold it against him later on. That’s all…

Sorry for the clicking.. the lens cap to my camera was banging against the tripod I had bungee corded to my drivers seat.. I'll be sure to secure it properly next time so we don't hear the clicking

So that's what that was, me and a friend where trying to figure it out. I thought you brought along a reporter who only had an old school type writer or something…LOL

I can’t wait for more and more…keep it coming Philodox…

how difficult would it be to relocate the battery to the rear and then get a different intake pipe to run that way. just trying to figure out ways to open up the engine bay a little.

The other reason the idle might be rough on the Greddy kit is because the MAF is very close to the filter.
On the OEM application, there is more distance between the filter and the MAF, giving the air flow some time to become more cohesive.

I put a lot more distance on my suction pipe:

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/turbo/pipe_2.jpg


that's exactly why i put those screens there... so the MAF can get accurate readings

Is that your exhaust popping like mad? Is that normal, has it gotten more "poppy" with the turbo?

Is that your exhaust popping like mad? Is that normal, has it gotten more "poppy" with the turbo?

Yes, that's the exhaust. It's totally natural for a turbo. It's more apparent with a rotary since they are prone to "popping" already. What is causing that is unspent fuel finding its way into the exhaust system after letting off the throttle. Nothing to worry about. Kind of gives the car more 'character'. If I ever remove the cat and go straight pipes, I'll be spitting out flames like crazy ;)

The other reason the idle might be rough on the Greddy kit is because the MAF is very close to the filter.
On the OEM application, there is more distance between the filter and the MAF, giving the air flow some time to become more cohesive.



that is something that Racing Beat found also when developing their intake. the distance from the filter to the maf was essential in keeping the idle smooth and the MAF readings accurate. one of the things they talked about at 7stock

...Well, my winter tires are sized 255/40/18 in the rear...

jon sorry for hijacking the thread, one quick question: before the turbo installation, how was your ride with this tire dimension? did the 255 rear tires had a negative effect on performance?
I'll change my rims and and wanna go 255rear (and 225front) I just want an opinion about this setup...

Well, I have scheduled dyno time. My date for the dyno is January 21st at 10am :) Hopefuly Jeff can make the trip with me. I told them 2 would be coming for baselines with air/fuel.

jon sorry for hijacking the thread, one quick question: before the turbo installation, how was your ride with this tire dimension? did the 255 rear tires had a negative effect on performance?
I'll change my rims and and wanna go 255rear (and 225front) I just want an opinion about this setup...

No worries, I like wide tires in the rear. The my winter wheel/tire setup is as follows:

Milli Miglia EV-R 18x8 and 18x9
Tires are Pirellia Winter Snow Sport 240's 225/45-18 front and 255/40-18 rear.
No trouble with the winter tires yet. But they are a winter setup, I don't expect max performance out of them.

My summer setup is as follows:
Axis Hiro's 19x8.5 and 19x9.5
Tires: Hankook Ventus Sport K104 245/35-19 and 265/30-19
Haven't driven on these yet ;) And I won't until the winter is over. I don't want to take the chance of the salt ruining the finish on the wheels


Oh yeah.. for autocross I use my stock wheels with the stock dunlops. Though, this upcoming season I am going to put slicks on. Will probably go with 245's all around.

...my winter wheel/tire setup is as follows:

My summer setup is as follows:
Axis Hiro's 19x8.5 and 19x9.5
Tires: Hankook Ventus Sport K104 245/35-19 and 265/30-19
Haven't driven on these yet ;) And I won't until the winter is over. I don't want to take the chance of the salt ruining the finish on the wheels

Oh yeah.. for autocross I use my stock wheels with the stock dunlops. Though, this upcoming season I am going to put slicks on. Will probably go with 245's all around.

I don't believe it, as if you took the word out of my mouth!! Except for the 19's, we have pretty much the same thinking! This is the setup I'm gonna buy soon:

18x8fr, 18x9rr with 225/40 and 255/35, I'll go for lightweight Volks.

Stock rims with stock potenzas 040 for the track, and when they're finished, four slick or race tires, 245 all 4 corners... oh, and no winter tires for me, 'cause we get snow very rearly here in my country;)

Thank you my friend!! Please feel free to pm me if you have any good suggestions or you want to share impressions about your street/track setup in the future:) I'd love to hear them!

Well, I have scheduled dyno time. My date for the dyno is January 21st at 10am :) Hopefuly Jeff can make the trip with me. I told them 2 would be coming for baselines with air/fuel.


Where are you goin to dyno the car ?

Whats goin on guyz....i live in Middletown Nj and was wondering if anybody wanted to have a meet at the PNC Bank Arts Center on the Garden State Parkway...let me know what you think

Where are you goin to dyno the car ?
turns out Jeff found a place that's a lot cheaper than Turbotrix in NJ. Trying to coordinate with him to get a scheduled date.. stay tuned

Whats goin on guyz....i live in Middletown Nj and was wondering if anybody wanted to have a meet at the PNC Bank Arts Center on the Garden State Parkway...let me know what you think

Billy, post that in the NE Forum threads.. will get a better responce there!

Yes, that's the exhaust. It's totally natural for a turbo. It's more apparent with a rotary since they are prone to "popping" already. What is causing that is unspent fuel finding its way into the exhaust system after letting off the throttle. Nothing to worry about. Kind of gives the car more 'character'. If I ever remove the cat and go straight pipes, I'll be spitting out flames like crazy ;)

Yea, I get the pops as well with my RB, but its definitely not as pronounced as yours so I was wondering if the turbo increased it. Interesting, sounds like something is wrong, but I guess not. :)

Isn't removing the cat illegal? Although flames would be sweet.

turns out Jeff found a place that's a lot cheaper than Turbotrix in NJ. Trying to coordinate with him to get a scheduled date.. stay tuned
Damn i wished you went there i live liek 10 min from there, my bro goes there to get his evo tuned. very nice ppl

i noticed that you ran the 1st through 3rd in 10 sec or less(at 13:33 to 13:43 and at 15:22 to 15:32..that is fast as hell....and you redlined 2nd in less than 6 seconds both times..and that was at a very low rpm launch...nice..very nice!

Damn i wished you went there i live liek 10 min from there, my bro goes there to get his evo tuned. very nice ppl
sorry :(

i noticed that you ran the 1st through 3rd in 10 sec or less(at 13:33 to 13:43 and at 15:22 to 15:32..that is fast as hell....and you redlined 2nd in less than 6 seconds both times..and that was at a very low rpm launch...nice..very nice!

thanks! I am trying to preserve my clutch as long as possible.. hehe

whats second gear top out at? as in How fats can you go in 2nd

whats second gear top out at? as in How fats can you go in 2nd
That's not going to change. It's how fast you get there that will change.
Your final drive is determined by your differential.

His total top end is probably higher now though.

That's not going to change. It's how fast you get there that will change.
Your final drive is determined by your differential.

His total top end is probably higher now though.

what he said /\ /\

That's not going to change. It's how fast you get there that will change.
Your final drive is determined by your differential.

His total top end is probably higher now though.

ok...so someone answer my question..what does 2nd top out at...how fast he gets there we can see in the vid...i am a rx7 driver so I dont know the speed of the 8 at redline in any gear

ok...so someone answer my question..what does 2nd top out at...how fast he gets there we can see in the vid...i am a rx7 driver so I dont know the speed of the 8 at redline in any gear
67 before the fuel cut off.. 64 at 8500

67 before the fuel cut off.. 64 at 8500


thanks ...so he hits 65 or so in less than six seconds with a bad launch..not bad at all!!!

This thread is moving too fast for me..I know I'm gonna leave my house for a day and there's gonna be another video posted and I will never be able to find it in this mess..Can we do something to where the videos are always showing? someone put the links in his Sig or something?

Jon and I are putting them on the dyno next week. If you are interested, check out the thread:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=50065

.. :( why couldn't you guys live in florida? there's a lot of car stuff down here..

So that it is clear, we have two Jon's, both rotor wing pilots????
Do you guys know about Wildcard? Best ride of all. :D
I mean real "best ride" :eek:

His new name is going to be "Real Lucky Bastard"
:D :D :D :D


thanks ...so he hits 65 or so in less than six seconds with a bad launch..not bad at all!!!
and winter tires ;)


This thread is moving too fast for me..I know I'm gonna leave my house for a day and there's gonna be another video posted and I will never be able to find it in this mess..Can we do something to where the videos are always showing? someone put the links in his Sig or something?

Good point! From now on when I post a video I will also edit the first post in this thread with the links for the videos as well. Thanks for the suggestion!

Also, there won't be anymore videos until this blasted rain stops! :mad:

You should put the first two movies that were created in the original post anyway. It might be nice for people who fell off the planet and havent read this thread yet :).. jk...

You should put the first two movies that were created in the original post anyway. It might be nice for people who fell off the planet and havent read this thread yet :).. jk...

Good Point, doing that now

Got a reply from GReddy on the oilpan. Will be out in april or so, and the tentative price is 350.00 though that is not final....kinda sucks they didn't include it with the kit, oh well, at least we can get it even if it is extra.

So that it is clear, we have two Jon's, both rotor wing pilots????
Do you guys know about Wildcard? Best ride of all. :D
I mean real "best ride" :eek:

His new name is going to be "Real Lucky Bastard"
No.. 3 Jon's.. i'm Jon too..... blah!

i want one! :D

i think you'll have an easy Z contender definately be able to take stock STi's and evo's from a roll. peak horsepower numbers look alright, but the area under the curve is GREATLY improved.

Well lets not get ahead of ourselves. With the stock psi greddy comes with I HIGHLY doubt any sti or evo's will be taken. Now turn the boost up a few more pounds and then you will have a race IMO. Not saying you are wrong I would just be very shocked to see that happen with low psi.

Well lets not get ahead of ourselves. With the stock psi greddy comes with I HIGHLY doubt any sti or evo's will be taken. Now turn the boost up a few more pounds and then you will have a race IMO. Not saying you are wrong I would just be very shocked to see that happen with low psi.
im not saying every sti/evo will be obliterated. it takes a top notch driver to run low 13's stock, even with the AWD. i think a mediocre sti driver and a good 8 driver would be a very close 1/4 race. anything farther and the 8 would take it, given that the trap speed estimate of 111mph is correct.

there's an sti in my garage, so i get to compare the two cars quite a bit :D

...so where are the daytime videofootage? :-)

...so where are the daytime videofootage? :-)


we got about 4 inches of rain today.. the 8 stayed in the garage all day... sorry guys.. if it's any consolation, if the drag stip is open this sunday, I'll be taking video of my 1/4 runs.. if Jeff comes down for it, we can tape each others runs.

we got about 4 inches of rain today.. the 8 stayed in the garage all day... sorry guys.. if it's any consolation, if the drag stip is open this sunday, I'll be taking video of my 1/4 runs.. if Jeff comes down for it, we can tape each others runs.

Sounds like a promise to me... :D

Your video sucks... The first one should be an audio clip and the second one why did you have us watch 13.5 minutes of crap before your first run.

PS.. Next time.. Don't try to do your little commentary.

Congrats on the turbo.

Nice. If that was an attempt at humor you really need to work on your delivery.
jds

Your video sucks... The first one should be an audio clip and the second one why did you have us watch 13.5 minutes of crap before your first run.

PS.. Next time.. Don't try to do your little commentary.

Congrats on the turbo.

heh. I have an easier solution - don't download the videos if they annoy you so much.

Your video sucks... The first one should be an audio clip and the second one why did you have us watch 13.5 minutes of crap before your first run.

PS.. Next time.. Don't try to do your little commentary.

Congrats on the turbo.
Well, here is one for the "Short Attention Span Theatre"

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/video/rx8boost.mpg

I have one word to say


OUFS!!!! :eek:

That second video was great. I just thinkyou should edit it andget rid of allthe regular driving. Theres really only three or four actual portions of it that actually show your cars performance. I liked the part where you pointedout the fact that BOV is somewhat audible from within the cabin(I definitely heard it). But 16 min is a lot to seek through forwhats really only about 3 minutes or so of actual turbo performance. Thanksfor going through the hassle of making that video though.

You wouldn't have to go through all this if you just had girls. No one would be bored with you just driving around. ;)

That second video was great. I just thinkyou should edit it andget rid of allthe regular driving. Theres really only three or four actual portions of it that actually show your cars performance. I liked the part where you pointedout the fact that BOV is somewhat audible from within the cabin(I definitely heard it). But 16 min is a lot to seek through forwhats really only about 3 minutes or so of actual turbo performance. Thanksfor going through the hassle of making that video though.

I think it was a very demonstration. I know that a lot of people want to know how the car drives around town as well as when you gun it. So I figured I would document the city driving part in this particular video.

No worries, I won't be doing that anymore. Trying to find a little remote for my camera so I can put a button on my steering wheel to turn the record on and off.


P.S. Jeff, if you add anymore videos, let me know so I can add the link to the first post of this thread so people can find it easier... <-- talk about a run-on sentence.. lol

Well, here is one for the "Short Attention Span Theatre"

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/video/rx8boost.mpg

Jeff, in the video you are losing traction with 2nd gear! Sweeeet:cool:

Jeff, in the video you are losing traction with 2nd gear! Sweeeet:cool:
I'm actually loosing it in third as well. The car gets pointed a little bit to the left before I catch that mini-van.

Driving the '8 can be a bit of "Dukes of Hazzard" now if I'm not careful.:D

I'm actually loosing it in third as well. The car gets pointed a little bit to the left before I catch that mini-van.

Driving the '8 can be a bit of "Dukes of Hazzard" now if I'm not careful.:D
/\/\/\ I know the feeling.

Mod Edit: Gross pic removed, im assuming that the admin on which forum is was imaged linked to changed it to the nude pic once he saw the hotlinking going on.

No worries, I won't be doing that anymore. Trying to find a little remote for my camera so I can put a button on my steering wheel to turn the record on and off.I wouldn't even bother with doing that. It's better than you record everything, then cut up the video on your computer. I assume you're using movie maker on windows.... it has a button to start and end sections of video.

Well, here is one for the "Short Attention Span Theatre"

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/video/rx8boost.mpg

LOL, you have the same blow-off valve sound as the stage 1 turbo on the 8 in NFSU2, like a little chirping bird..

please in your next video have someone film you as you do a slow drive by and shift in front of the camera so we may hear the BOV from a on-lookers point of view and some shots of the car taking off from a stand still so we can see just how much kick out of the rear tires their is that you speak off when shifting.
Please. :D

dude your worried about the spelling of negligible? that's the worst typing i have seen since one of my posts!!:D;)


hehe is you think that is bad you should see one of my posts tha ti do late at night....you need a linguist to decypher it :p

Haha..hijacking your own thread..classic.. anyways..just wanted to chime in and say thanks for the install and the updates.. really appreciate it. and when the Army switches my airframe from the OH-58D to something else..(very likely an OH-6/type.. i'll let you know what it's like..for now i'm lovin my other rotary craft....the Kiowa Warrior :)for some reason a MD-500 (OH-6A for you military types) comes to mind ;) Can't wait til my warranty expires!!! :D

That's the best read I've ever had to go with my morning pot of coffee. A HUGE congratulations to you and thanks for the vids!

love that chirping bird blow off valve mazdamaniac...what kind is it?

love that chirping bird blow off valve mazdamaniac...what kind is it?


I think it's an Apexi or HKS... looks like a bullet.. I saw under the hood of his car when he drove up to New Jersey to see my install. Damn my memory..

It's an HKS SSQ (Super Sequential) BOV.

please in your next video have someone film you as you do a slow drive by and shift in front of the camera so we may hear the BOV from a on-lookers point of view and some shots of the car taking off from a stand still so we can see just how much kick out of the rear tires their is that you speak off when shifting.
Please. :D

That would be cool ! :D

lol the bird chirp. alot of people find that sounds annoying, but i love it. it sounds great with 30psi coming out of it.

Jeff's video was cool - just wish it was a few minutes longer... I was still drooling. On your's I fast forward to about 13 minutes :)

rx8pilot is your name Jon? :)

Jon, can you give me a pm and tell me again how you got that silly tab loose to get the trim off when changing the shifter. I had one last night that would not come loose.

Jeff's video was cool - just wish it was a few minutes longer... I was still drooling. On your's I fast forward to about 13 minutes :)
I think Jeff told me he takes mpg video off his digital camera. So I don't think he can make long ones.

rx8pilot is your name Jon? :)

Jon, can you give me a pm and tell me again how you got that silly tab loose to get the trim off when changing the shifter. I had one last night that would not come loose.

Richard, check your PM inbox

If you guysare losing traction so easily w/5 PSI of boost - I cantimagine how much worse it would be w/7 or 8 PSI.

Jeff

Great video noticed a red flashing light after you turn about half way through your video near your turn indicator, whats that ?? CEL

cheers
michael

Jeff

Great video noticed a red flashing light after you turn about half way through your video near your turn indicator, whats that ?? CEL

cheers
michael
he mentions that in the other thread. TCS light..

Ajax

Thanks in the last 48 hours i think i have spent one third reading about jon and jeffs turbo delivery :D

cheers
michael

he mentions that in the other thread. TCS light..

Yeah, I just turned mine off during that one video. If I kept the TSC on, you would have seen it flashing througout 1-4th gear

I propose we all mail $1 to Philodox for shareing all of this with us. We can all get him something for his 8 or let him spend it. Philodox, I know you just wanted to share but it's been so cool seeing all the work and then the video.

Come on people...$1 for Philodox!

everyone send me $5 and i'll make you a feature length film complete with DIY install instructions!!

that is of course after i use that money to buy the kit :)

Hey guys, not to put a damper on things, but...

While the aircraft-related stuff is interesting to a lot of us, it's not to everyone who comes to this thread wanting to learn about the Greddy Turbo. I've stripped those posts out of this thread and created you a new one containing them in the Lounge here (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=50152). Let's try to keep this thread on topic - it's already 16+ pages. Thanks!

everyone send me $5 and i'll make you a feature length film complete with DIY install instructions!!

that is of course after i use that money to buy the kit

OK, where do I mail it....LOL, nice try!

I think at higher level of boost on a say T4+ turbo I'd rather hear the sound of recoil comming from the wastegate. ;)

Well as you can tell there is alot of reading in this post. And I will be honest I am feeling lazy to day. I know this was probably asked already but any figures on MPG? Big diffrence or barely noticable?

Omicron, you're a real wet towel. You don't know maybe they love it. Lets have a vote.
Have you ever heard of the Airplane Gods? Carefull flying.

:(

All the meandering adds character I say!

Anyway, back on topic. I've decided that I am going to purchase this kit. Although originally I had thought of waiting for a kit that produces more power, the amount the Greddy is putting down seems perfect as the 8 is my daily driver.

So, philo, just to bother you more, any tips/hints for me putting this on?

Rick's Rotary Performance in Pleasanton will be doing the install. Funny thing is, I just called them today about it and they will be installing the kit on their own car this week! He and I mentioned this same thread...what a great site this is.

I will be purchasing :

Greddy turbo kit
HKS SSQ BOV (rerouted to intake)

As for the boost gauge...excuse my ignorance, but it isn't a necessity is it? With the low boost and the fixed maps, I would imagine that monitoring the boost shouldn't be a problem.

(Oh yes...I am the person who JUST bought your CZ philo...it'll be FS now :rolleyes: )

Hey guys, not to put a damper on things, but...

While the aircraft-related stuff is interesting to a lot of us, it's not to everyone who comes to this thread wanting to learn about the Greddy Turbo. I've stripped those posts out of this thread and created you a new one containing them in the Lounge here (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=50152). Let's try to keep this thread on topic - it's already 16+ pages. Thanks!

Jealous "landlubber." :D

...As for the boost gauge...excuse my ignorance, but it isn't a necessity is it? With the low boost and the fixed maps, I would imagine that monitoring the boost shouldn't be a problem...

I think the boost gauge is a must, it just adds that crazy look to the dash, and loads of fun factor, but your right, you might not really need it.

What about the boost gauge in the Mazda North American Operations car. I would like this gauge with the kit. Jon, do you think this would work?

:(

All the meandering adds character I say!

Anyway, back on topic. I've decided that I am going to purchase this kit. Although originally I had thought of waiting for a kit that produces more power, the amount the Greddy is putting down seems perfect as the 8 is my daily driver.

So, philo, just to bother you more, any tips/hints for me putting this on?

Rick's Rotary Performance in Pleasanton will be doing the install. Funny thing is, I just called them today about it and they will be installing the kit on their own car this week! He and I mentioned this same thread...what a great site this is.

I will be purchasing :

Greddy turbo kit
HKS SSQ BOV (rerouted to intake)

As for the boost gauge...excuse my ignorance, but it isn't a necessity is it? With the low boost and the fixed maps, I would imagine that monitoring the boost shouldn't be a problem.

(Oh yes...I am the person who JUST bought your CZ philo...it'll be FS now :rolleyes: )

hey spazm thats actually pretty close to where i'm at . Let me know when you getting it installed so I can come take a lil peak. Which part of the bay are you from?

Damn you guys, I had my money set away to buy the MS kit, but I think it would be better to give my car some balls. Rick is a cool guy and knows his stuff, if he would scrap his custom SC for the Greddy kit, thats enough for me.

I will be purchasing :

Greddy turbo kit
HKS SSQ BOV (rerouted to intake)


The HKS cant be rerouted. It doesn't have a port to which you can attach a hose. It is just an open vent.
It isn't designed to be a recirculation valve.

The Greddy can be, though I highly recommend this valve:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?action=product&itemid=85468

I have one on my Miata and it rocks.

I live in Stockton actually. I used to live in Fremont though. Rick is the only place that I have heard of that sounded reputable and knowledgable about rotaries; the fact that he is putting the same kit on his own car only sealed the deal. I would be more than happy to have you come by.

Thanks MM for the feedback. I'm new to this performance car thing, and I'm trying to learn as much as I possibly can from these forums and trying to not sound too much like a fool. The description of that BOV sounds like it is specifically designed for certain applications; will it work in my case?

A BOV comes with the kit right?

No BOV comes with the kit.

Can you do us a favour and post your dyno chart in your first post of this thread when you get it? That way people don't have to read through 42 + pages to find it ;)

Awesome job dude.

Damn i love your turbo, it show sound good and fast too. i would like to see a video that you drive by and hear the BOV, but i still like the sound from the inside.

Can't remember if this question has been asked anywhere but after the engine is pretty well hot, and you’re going full boost did any of you take a measurement of the diameter of the plastic intake runners?

I've heard of some MP3 guys' Intake runners actually expanding and contracting as they got on and off the throttle, they're running much higher boost of course. I'm just wondering if its a issue at 5 or 6 psi?

Hey guys, not to put a damper on things, but...

While the aircraft-related stuff is interesting to a lot of us, it's not to everyone who comes to this thread wanting to learn about the Greddy Turbo. I've stripped those posts out of this thread and created you a new one containing them in the Lounge here (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=50152). Let's try to keep this thread on topic - it's already 16+ pages. Thanks!


Thanks for keeping the thread clean.

RX8 DX

The boost gauge is definitely a must, the first time you try to diagnose a problem with the system without one you'll regret it if you don't get one. At a minimum just buy a cheap one like an Autometer. If you don't think it matches don't install it...you can temporarily install it when you need it and then take it out. They may not be as accurate as some of the others, but for the purposes of diagnosing problems you mostly will just be looking for differences in behavior from the norm.

jds

I think the boost gauge is a must, it just adds that crazy look to the dash, and loads of fun factor, but your right, you might not really need it.

What about the boost gauge in the Mazda North American Operations car. I would like this gauge with the kit. Jon, do you think this would work?

Okay guys, been away from the computer for a little while, so I'm going to try to cover all the questions you want answered that I missed over the last day or so. Here we go....

I propose we all mail $1 to Philodox for shareing all of this with us. We can all get him something for his 8 or let him spend it. Philodox, I know you just wanted to share but it's been so cool seeing all the work and then the video.

Come on people...$1 for Philodox!
Hehe.. I appreciate the thoughts guys, but I don't want to break any forum rules.. though I may take you up on this when I decide to get a Street Port on the engine in about 6 months ;)

:(

All the meandering adds character I say!

Anyway, back on topic. I've decided that I am going to purchase this kit. Although originally I had thought of waiting for a kit that produces more power, the amount the Greddy is putting down seems perfect as the 8 is my daily driver.

So, philo, just to bother you more, any tips/hints for me putting this on?

Rick's Rotary Performance in Pleasanton will be doing the install. Funny thing is, I just called them today about it and they will be installing the kit on their own car this week! He and I mentioned this same thread...what a great site this is.

I will be purchasing :

Greddy turbo kit
HKS SSQ BOV (rerouted to intake)

As for the boost gauge...excuse my ignorance, but it isn't a necessity is it? With the low boost and the fixed maps, I would imagine that monitoring the boost shouldn't be a problem.

(Oh yes...I am the person who JUST bought your CZ philo...it'll be FS now :rolleyes: )
Hehe.. For the little tricks, read the thread. I covered everything that had to be 'modified', such as the support braces for the intercooler. Just do a quick read through again of the actual install posts and you'll see what I am talking about.

As for the BOV, I highly suggest the GReddy Type-S. I don't have any issues with the BOV venting to atmosphere and it you do end up having MAF issues, it can be easily modified into a recirculating with an outlet adapter.

I think the boost gauge is a must, it just adds that crazy look to the dash, and loads of fun factor, but your right, you might not really need it.

What about the boost gauge in the Mazda North American Operations car. I would like this gauge with the kit. Jon, do you think this would work?
Personally, I only like the Defi gauges, in particular, the one I got. The Defi BF series gauges. You can get them in White and Amber (mine is white and is a PERFECT match for the stock gauge cluster).

The HKS cant be rerouted. It doesn't have a port to which you can attach a hose. It is just an open vent.
It isn't designed to be a recirculation valve.

The Greddy can be, though I highly recommend this valve:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?action=product&itemid=85468

I have one on my Miata and it rocks.
That works too. But I just love the "pshhhssss" sound a VTA B.O.V gives. I recommend the Type-S, it's perfect for this application and is good for up to 18psi without destroying the diaphram inside.

Can you do us a favour and post your dyno chart in your first post of this thread when you get it? That way people don't have to read through 42 + pages to find it ;)

Awesome job dude.
Thanks. I sure will edit the first post with Dyno Results and Time Slips when I get down to the drag strip.


Can't remember if this question has been asked anywhere but after the engine is pretty well hot, and you’re going full boost did any of you take a measurement of the diameter of the plastic intake runners?

I've heard of some MP3 guys' Intake runners actually expanding and contracting as they got on and off the throttle, they're running much higher boost of course. I'm just wondering if its a issue at 5 or 6 psi?
That's an issue that Jim (my mechanic) and I discussed. I'm running about 6.5-7.0psi, I shouldn't have a prolem with it exploding from too much pressure. However, once someone releases an aluminum one, I'm getting it. Not only is it stronger, but I can polish the hell out of it and it'll look HOT too :)

The boost gauge is definitely a must, the first time you try to diagnose a problem with the system without one you'll regret it if you don't get one. At a minimum just buy a cheap one like an Autometer. If you don't think it matches don't install it...you can temporarily install it when you need it and then take it out. They may not be as accurate as some of the others, but for the purposes of diagnosing problems you mostly will just be looking for differences in behavior from the norm.

jds
Exactly what he said. But you should get a quality gauge, can make the difference between blowing your engine, and knowing when it's about to go so you can shut down.



Also, I can't make it to the drag strip today. I've been commited to other plans by default. Those of you that are married or in a serious relationship know what that means :o

Sounds like you have to put some "time" back into the relationship bank. The significant other has to be on board for a project like this :D

Sounds like you have to put some "time" back into the relationship bank. The significant other has to be on board for a project like this :D

No kidding.. we have an agreement.. I won't complain if she buys shoes if she doesn't complain of my car stuff ;)

Jon, you memetioned that you are running about 6.5-7.0 PSI. I thought the e-manage had this set at 5 PSI. Am I mistaken?

Trick is to turn your wife into a horsepower junkie like I have.
She was going to bring lunch and the pomeranian along today to the track. She likes driving fast.

Jon, you memetioned that you are running about 6.5-7.0 PSI. I thought the e-manage had this set at 5 PSI. Am I mistaken?
The E-Manage isn't set for anything. The boost is set by the wastegate actuator, whcih is mechanically fixed.

Jon, you memetioned that you are running about 6.5-7.0 PSI. I thought the e-manage had this set at 5 PSI. Am I mistaken?

Okay, the GReddy instructions say that their kit is preset for boost levels of between 0.4kg/cm2 to 0.45kg/cm2. This equates to 39.24kPa to 44.15kPa or 5.69psi to 6.40psi. If you want to know how I got those kPa & psi numbers here are the conversions:

1kg/cm2=98.1kPa
1kPa = 0.145psi

However, my gauge reads between 45kPa to a peak of 52kPa or 6.5psi to a peak of 7.5psi. The average pressure I see is 48kPa or 7.0psi. I am not having any issues with detonation or the like. I believe each kit will vary a little bit from what GReddy says.

I am going to get a boost controller to stabilize the amount of boost use. I hope that answers your questions. Let me know if you need any other information.

The E-Manage isn't set for anything. The boost is set by the wastegate actuator, whcih is mechanically fixed.
Correct, the wastegate actuator is connected by tubing to the intake manifold so it can get pressure to open the wastegate from that.

Hehe.. I appreciate the thoughts guys, but I don't want to break any forum rules.. though I may take you up on this when I decide to get a Street Port on the engine in about 6 months

What dat mean? LOL, street port?

Hey, if I’m ever in NJ I’ll personally give you my $1. Or, buy you an ice cream or something…LOL

Also, I can't make it to the drag strip today. I've been commited to other plans by default. Those of you that are married or in a serious relationship know what that means

Don’t we love woman…LOL, it’s so funny how events, dates, and such appear out of no place. (Really, we just never listened the first time anyway…LOL)

Can’t wait for more vid’s, dyno, and time slips. You should start a new thread for these since this one is getting crazy long.

Can’t wait for more vid’s, dyno, and time slips. You should start a new thread for these since this one is getting crazy long.

I am keeping the very first post of this thread updated with videos and dyno sheets when I get them. That way you guys don't have to go through every single post to find the data.

The HKS cant be rerouted. It doesn't have a port to which you can attach a hose. It is just an open vent.
It isn't designed to be a recirculation valve.
there is a recirc fitting available for the SSQV

http://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8

Okay, the GReddy instructions say that their kit is preset for boost levels of between 0.4kg/cm2 to 0.45kg/cm2. This equates to 39.24kPa to 44.15kPa or 5.69psi to 6.40psi. If you want to know how I got those kPa & psi numbers here are the conversions:

1kg/cm2=98.1kPa
1kPa = 0.145psi

However, my gauge reads between 45kPa to a peak of 52kPa or 6.5psi to a peak of 7.5psi. The average pressure I see is 48kPa or 7.0psi. I am not having any issues with detonation or the like. I believe each kit will vary a little bit from what GReddy says.

I am going to get a boost controller to stabilize the amount of boost use. I hope that answers your questions. Let me know if you need any other information.


Correct, the wastegate actuator is connected by tubing to the intake manifold so it can get pressure to open the wastegate from that.

I was thinking maybe the gauge is what is giving the off reading??I would hope it was the gauge having the variation and not the greddy turbo,is there any way to try another gauge to make sure??..........I dont know just a thought :confused:

I was thinking maybe the gauge is what is giving the off reading??I would hope it was the gauge having the variation and not the greddy turbo,is there any way to try another gauge to make sure??..........I dont know just a thought :confused:

The Defi BF series gauges are electronic, not mechanical. So their readings are significantly more accurate. Jeff (MazdaManiac) is having similar issues with his turbo as well. Even with a boost controller, there are still going to be tiny variances. An internal actuator style wastegate isn't going to be "perfect" either. What I am worried about is the average amount of boost, which currently I am quite happy with. I hope that answers your question.

The Defi BF series gauges are electronic, not mechanical. So their readings are significantly more accurate. Jeff (MazdaManiac) is having similar issues with his turbo as well. Even with a boost controller, there are still going to be tiny variances. An internal actuator style wastegate isn't going to be "perfect" either. What I am worried about is the average amount of boost, which currently I am quite happy with. I hope that answers your question.

yes definitely..........also if and when you go to get it dynoed, will they be able to take accurate psi and other readings through a piggyback hookup through the emanage??

On another note,was the track closed today?? or are you going later or leaving it for another day?? I had read you might go today.......Im in Queens NY and its cloudy and they said something about snow but nothing so far..........how is it where you live?

yes definitely..........also if and when you go to get it dynoed, will they be able to take accurate psi and other readings through a piggyback hookup through the emanage??

On another note,was the track closed today?? or are you going later or leaving it for another day?? I had read you might go today.......Im in Queens NY and its cloudy and they said something about snow but nothing so far..........how is it where you live?

Not going to the track today because it's too cold and snow is forcast today... and I was drafted by the girlfriend to do something this afternoon.

The e-manage doesn't control boost at all, it just monitors intake vaccume/pressure so it so it can properly supply/take away fuel when needed. A boost gauge is connected directly to the intake manifold. Sometimes the air is a bit turbulant in there and can at times wreak havoc on the gauge since it measures vacuume and pressure. There really isn't any other way to measure the vacuume/boost pressure off the intake manifold that I know of other than a gauge. Does that explain it a bit better for you?

Jon be carfull with the shoe thing. I never paid attention to my ex-wife buying shoes. Then when she moved out it took two trips with a Blazer full up to get them out. When asked she ADMITED to there being $35,000 worth of them.
It's the boots that really drive it up at $300 to$700 a pair.

Jon be carfull with the shoe thing. I never paid attention to my ex-wife buying shoes. Then when she moved out it took two trips with a Blazer full up to get them out. When asked she ADMITED to there being $35,000 worth of them.
It's the boots that really drive it up at $300 to$700 a pair.
@&$%#@.... wow.. My girlfriend is a pretty frugal shopper, thank goodness..

Not going to the track today because it's too cold and snow is forcast today... and I was drafted by the girlfriend to do something this afternoon.

The e-manage doesn't control boost at all, it just monitors intake vaccume/pressure so it so it can properly supply/take away fuel when needed. A boost gauge is connected directly to the intake manifold. Sometimes the air is a bit turbulant in there and can at times wreak havoc on the gauge since it measures vacuume and pressure. There really isn't any other way to measure the vacuume/boost pressure off the intake manifold that I know of other than a gauge. Does that explain it a bit better for you?

yup thanks for the answers ;)

Jon
Would it be wise to do a port at the same time you do the turbo /supercharge upgrade ?

Why not do them at the same time ?

cheers
michael

Jon
Would it be wise to do a port at the same time you do the turbo /supercharge upgrade ?

Why not do them at the same time ?

cheers
michael

Well, aside from the obviously longer downtime for the car (the removal of the engine to do the porting is a bitch), I personally want to wait and see how the engine handles just the turbo for now. Once I am completely satisfied that the engine runs without any problems related to the Turbo, I will go forward and get a port/polish job done.

I wouldn't recommend doing both at the same time since not enough people have done either the turbo or porting, I would wait until someone steps up to the plate and gets both done. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm probably going to go down that road in about 6 months or so.

Hey Jon, It's omecron's birthday today, why not take him for a helo ride as a present. I'll pay the rental. :D :D :D

Hey Jon, It's omecron's birthday today, why not take him for a helo ride as a present. I'll pay the rental. :D :D :D
:p :p :p :p

Well, aside from the obviously longer downtime for the car (the removal of the engine to do the porting is a bitch), I personally want to wait and see how the engine handles just the turbo for now. Once I am completely satisfied that the engine runs without any problems related to the Turbo, I will go forward and get a port/polish job done.

I wouldn't recommend doing both at the same time since not enough people have done either the turbo or porting, I would wait until someone steps up to the plate and gets both done. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm probably going to go down that road in about 6 months or so.

Besides, it is going to be very interesting to see the internals in 6 months after running it with boost. Looks like you are in for Guinea Pig for a while :p

Besides, it is going to be very interesting to see the internals in 6 months after running it with boost. Looks like you are in for Guinea Pig for a while :p

You'll get no complaints out of me for being the Guinea Pig ;)

Hows gas mileage? The spool up looks awesome! :eek:

Hows gas mileage? The spool up looks awesome! :eek:

Still working on my first full tank. I'm 1/2 through this tank and I'm only about 15 miles off where I normally am without the turbo.. Take into account that I really let it loose during those runs in the video and I would say fuel economy is still pretty decent compared to stock.


**EDIT** DAMNIT!! Ran into my first problem.. can anyone guess what it is? I forgot to hook back up the blasted fog lights when I put the bumper on.. grr.. Have to undo the bottom bolts to get at it.. it's too damn cold outside to do it now.. grrr.. **EDIT**

**EDIT** DAMNIT!! Ran into my first problem.. can anyone guess what it is? I forgot to hook back up the blasted fog lights when I put the bumper on.. grr.. Have to undo the bottom bolts to get at it.. it's too damn cold outside to do it now.. grrr.. **EDIT**
Don't feel bad, I do that every time I take the bumper off. :p

Don't feel bad, I do that every time I take the bumper off. :p
at least I'm not the only one.. lol

I did the same one time, but I managed to get my hand up there and reconnect them through the lower grill opening, but if you have a screen there - well you know the drill... :rolleyes:

I did the same thing when I installed my front lip. I wanted to kick myself when I realized that I forgot.

Yeah, it's nothing life threatening to the car... it's just one of those things where you want to hit yourself in the head when you realized you did it.. heh.. I guess I should count myself lucky that this is the ONLY mishap that I've had with this install. *knocks on wood*.. Well, that and I accidentally broke the stock oil pressure sensor which isn't a big deal either.. got a new one from Mazda for $10.

Well, that and I accidentally broke the stock oil pressure sensor which isn't a big deal either.. got a new one from Mazda for $10.
Good price.

The oil pressure sensor has been, essentially, the same unit on nearly all of Ford and Mazda's models - except that they keep changing the connector.

List price on that sensor is like $60.

Good price.

The oil pressure sensor has been, essentially, the same unit on nearly all of Ford and Mazda's models - except that they keep changing the connector.

List price on that sensor is like $60.
Wow, I hope they ordered the right one, I pick it up tomorrow morning.. so I guess I'll find out then ;)

Wow, I hope they ordered the right one, I pick it up tomorrow morning.. so I guess I'll find out then ;)
What do you mean? How can you be driving around with a broken sensor? Or did you just break the connector locking tab?

Damn!! Nice one philodox. I just finished reading this ENTIRE thread. Good luck!!

- Irish :cool:

Jeff,

Was what light was coming on during acceleration in second gear, was that traction light oor was it something else?

Regard,

Gibbo

Hey Guys, Just wanna let you know this the first time I write on a forum, However I have been reading your posts since I was interested in the RX-8 in June 03.

I"m from Miami,FL.
Bought my 6MT Blue RX-8 with the Grand Touring option. in October of 2003.

So Far mods:
*Lowered my car 1.3 inches with Tanabe springs.
*Custom 3inch Cat Back Magna Flow Exhaust
*Typhoon air intake
*19inch HP Evo rims 245 with1.5 inch lip for the front and 275 with 3.5 lip for the rear
*And now the Greddy Kit wich is delivered to my home this up coming friday!

I'm not a genious with the complexities of the Turbo and the rotary engines, like most of you are, but hopefully you guys don't mind me tagging along so that I can learn more on the way.

welcome to the forums marwar80!

MarWar abunch of the Rx7 and Rx8 owners down here around Miami and Ft Lauderdale are goingto be meeting upat the end of this month (read this) (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=48342). Maybe youcould show it off to everyone sinceyoull probably be thefirst person down here to havethe kit. I alreadyknow of a blue RX-8 downhere that has had a custom turbo installed since Oct 04 but nevergot to see it in person.

Thanks Konig!!!

Jerky, Bro, That is the weekend when I fly up to NY for a wedding. I planned on getting it installed while I was away. I'll be back on Tuesday the 1st of Feb =( By the way. I plan on getting it installed by this little shop by my house called Piston Rotary Motorsports. It located right behind the Tamiami airport. They claimed they would install it for $350. Do you know anyone who is reliable that could install for about the same price if not better?

Nice videos, couple questions though, I noticed a lot of rattling with the car, is it just from the way the camera's mounted? Also, the putt putt putt noise is that the engine backfiring? Just curious. I love the sound of the turbo though.. especially the blowoff valve.

$350? I would be very wary about that price! Most shops charge anywhere from $75-$100 an hour for labor, and this install took phil's mechanic almost 16 hours to do! I would look for somewhere in the $800-$1400 price range for an install.

Any place lowballing it that much, I would feel uncomfortable taking my car to.

Or you could always install it yourself, that way you definitley know whats what

Philodox I demand you go on vacation form your job to post more pic's, time slips, etc

LOL

Note: Tell the wife or girlfriend that it's part of your job's "Learn to make video for emergancy" program

LOL, thanks putting the vid's in the front it will save all of us some major TIME!

What do you mean? How can you be driving around with a broken sensor? Or did you just break the connector locking tab?


Jeff,

The locking tab that attaches the wiring harness broke on the sensor itself, so the wiring harness won't stay on.. so I had to get a new sensor.. nothing serious at all, but still threw a CEL

Nice videos, couple questions though, I noticed a lot of rattling with the car, is it just from the way the camera's mounted? Also, the putt putt putt noise is that the engine backfiring? Just curious. I love the sound of the turbo though.. especially the blowoff valve.

put put noise is just unburnt gas burning off in the catalytic converter.. that crazy rattling sound was the lens cap to my camcorder hitting the tripod..

I have been debating whether or not I should do it my self for a while now. I read through the instructions which someone already translated into English. THANKS!! Doesn't seem too complicated. One thing that had me surprised was that there were no Specific Torque specs. As in how tight the nuts and bolts need to be tightened. Any one know the exact specs?

So how was the trip to the track Jon (Philodox)

Opps, you didn't go....a couple pages a day added to this thread can really get you behind :-) Any ideas when the weather will get better? Thanks! Love your car man!

I have been debating whether or not I should do it my self for a while now. I read through the instructions which someone already translated into English. THANKS!! Doesn't seem too complicated. One thing that had me surprised was that there were no Specific Torque specs. As in how tight the nuts and bolts need to be tightened. Any one know the exact specs?

I recommend (MazdaManiac can vouch for this also) that if you get it installed, you do so on a lift. Otherwise it will be EXTREMELY difficult to install.. But if you think you can do yourself, more power to you! :-)

As for torque specs, they are all in the workshop manual.

Enjoyed your video, Jon, especially when I full-screened it. My favorite quote: "Is that a Mustang?!" I could feel the 'let's smoke him' excitement in your voice. When I'm up by Marlton, I'll get out of your way! Hope to see it in action soon.

Jeff,

Was what light was coming on during acceleration in second gear, was that traction light oor was it something else?

Regard,

Gibbo

TCS/DSC light. I was spinning my wheels everywhere.
BTW, That light seems to come on in higher gears only if I also get the car a little sideways as well.

Nice videos, couple questions though, I noticed a lot of rattling with the car, is it just from the way the camera's mounted? Also, the putt putt putt noise is that the engine backfiring? Just curious. I love the sound of the turbo though.. especially the blowoff valve.

Lens cap hitting the tripod.

put put noise is just unburnt gas burning off in the catalytic converter.. that crazy rattling sound was the lens cap to my camcorder hitting the tripod..


Lens cap thing sounds good at least, I was worried that the turbo was causing excessive rattles and stuff. The putt putt though seems like the car is running way too rich, might or might not be a good thing I suppose. Any pinging so far? I guess most likely not considering how rich the car's running. Good job guys, hope to see the dyno charts soon.

Lens cap thing sounds good at least, I was worried that the turbo was causing excessive rattles and stuff. The putt putt though seems like the car is running way too rich, might or might not be a good thing I suppose. Any pinging so far? I guess most likely not considering how rich the car's running. Good job guys, hope to see the dyno charts soon.

Nope, no pinging at all. And yes, I do agree that it may be a bit rich. I think GReddy tuned the map on the e-manage that way so nobody would have problems. I know that some stock RX-8's run much leaner than others, so GReddy may have taken that into account and made their base map overly rich for the sake of safety.

that extra fuel might also be due to the bov venting to atmosphere instead of recirculating. I plan to have mine recirculating i'll let you know if it makes a diff. As of now i have no bov, so no popping issues with mine. All i have to do now is find someone to weld aluminnum...

that extra fuel might also be due to the bov venting to atmosphere instead of recirculating. I plan to have mine recirculating i'll let you know if it makes a diff. As of now i have no bov, so no popping issues with mine. All i have to do now is find someone to weld aluminnum...

Welding aluminum is damn tricky, make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing. I'll have air/fuel done with the dyno this coming Friday, so I'll know just how rich it is at WOT.

Come on Friday hurry up and get here....can't wait.......

If anyone is interested, there is a place in Sacramento where I live that will sell turbos for 2750 out the door (taxes are included). Send me a PM if you are interested we need 5+ for the buy

Welding aluminum is damn tricky, make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing. I'll have air/fuel done with the dyno this coming Friday, so I'll know just how rich it is at WOT.

To add on to that, a good aluminum weld should look like an overlapping stack of quarters when it is done.

Aluminum is tricky stuff.

-Mr. Wigggles

philodox,,, do you know what AFR ratio that you are tuning for? remember that you have a turbo rotary now
read this on the 7 site
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=293609&highlight=afr+ratio

To add on to that, a good aluminum weld should look like an overlapping stack of quarters when it is done.

Aluminum is tricky stuff.

-Mr. Wigggles

yup, melting point is so much lower than steel that it can "gunk" up and look like crap or get ruined all together if the weld temp is too high.

To add on to that, a good aluminum weld should look like an overlapping stack of quarters when it is done.

Aluminum is tricky stuff.

-Mr. Wigggles
Tell me about it. I had to lear to weld aluminum from scratch in order to build this system.
I had always worked completely in steel before and paid to have aluminum parts welded for me.
Since I decided to use aluminum pipes instead of steel (for weight and heat reasons), I had to reconfigure my MIG and burn up a lot of scrap in practice.
My welds are still ugly, but they don't leak. :p

Tell me about it. I had to lear to weld aluminum from scratch in order to build this system.
I had always worked completely in steel before and paid to have aluminum parts welded for me.
Since I decided to use aluminum pipes instead of steel (for weight and heat reasons), I had to reconfigure my MIG and burn up a lot of scrap in practice.
My welds are still ugly, but they don't leak. :p

I just got a local metal shop to do it. They did an outstanding job. Cost me $40 to get the flange welded on. Here's a pic of the weld.. I'm going to the whole engine bay polished. Just want to get an aluminum intake manifold to replace that crappy black plastic after the throttle body so I can get everything done at the same time.

I notice the MAF sensor is next to the intake filter. Since your running VTA your going to run extremely rich whenever you blow off bc the air accounted by the MAF is being blown out. I've done this in my evo and it would blow fire out the exhaust. Does your car blow fireballs too? I know the RX8 blows fireballs stock, so I'm could only imagine how big yours are. Also something that intrigues me is my MGP would drop from 20 to 17, yet yours appears to not have dropped much with the addition of the turbocharger and VTA BOV.

I notice the MAF sensor is next to the intake filter. Since your running VTA your going to run extremely rich whenever you blow off bc the air accounted by the MAF is being blown out. I've done this in my evo and it would blow fire out the exhaust. Does your car blow fireballs too? I know the RX8 blows fireballs stock, so I'm could only imagine how big yours are. Also something that intrigues me is my MGP would drop from 20 to 17, yet yours appears to not have dropped much with the addition of the turbocharger and VTA BOV.

I am actually getting better gas mileage by 2mpg! It's quite strange, especially since I've been pushing it kind of hard. I would speculate that by trying to keep the car out of boost and in a vaccume state while city driving, I'm getting better gas mileage because of that.

As for the fire out the exhaust, I did scare one car today. I had an unusually large backfire :p.. well he was tail gating me and I made it happen by tapping the throttle to get a little extra unburnt fuel into the exhaust. The catalytic converter catches mose of it, but I do occasionally shoot out a flame or two. If I ever run straight pipes, I'll shoot out flames quite often.

Hehe you should get a EGT gauge. Not only does it warn you if your rotors are going to melt, its helps if you do a street tune, and lets you know if your exhaust gas if hot enough to combust the fuel when it hits the air. If you run a straight pipe... :D

Hehe you should get a EGT gauge. Not only does it warn you if your rotors are going to melt, its helps if you do a street tune, and lets you know if your exhaust gas if hot enough to combust the fuel when it hits the air. If you run a straight pipe... :D

That's the plan. Boost, EGT, and Oil Pressure at first. Then if I can mod my ashtray to fit two more gauges I'll put a air/fuel and fuel pressure there.

Hey Jon, just got back in town ,hope all is well.Did you get the oil pressure sensor? If you did bring it by the shop tomorow.....Jim

Hey Jon, just got back in town ,hope all is well.Did you get the oil pressure sensor? If you did bring it by the shop tomorow.....Jim
Took care of it today. Stopping by the shop tomorrow to chit chat.. see you then Jim.

Just as a follow up, you guys are WAY off on aluminum, my brothers been welding on everything metal for about 15 plus years 12 of those at a nuclear fuel plant, the trick to welding aluminum is realizing that the heat runs very quickly across the surface, aluminum does have a lower heat range compared to steel but it runs much faster than steel so while a torch will slice thru steel like butter, it is very useless on aluminum because its a slow heat, to weld it properly you must INCREASE your heat, hit it hard and hit it fast and you can weld it much cleaner, if anyone wants a full breakdown on proper technique i'll have my brother write up a little advice paper on it and post it ;).

J~

Just as a follow up, you guys are WAY off on aluminum, my brothers been welding on everything metal for about 15 plus years 12 of those at a nuclear fuel plant, the trick to welding aluminum is realizing that the heat runs very quickly across the surface, aluminum does have a lower heat range compared to steel but it runs much faster than steel so while a torch will slice thru steel like butter, it is very useless on aluminum because its a slow heat, to weld it properly you must INCREASE your heat, hit it hard and hit it fast and you can weld it much cleaner, if anyone wants a full breakdown on proper technique i'll have my brother write up a little advice paper on it and post it ;).

J~
Hmm.. interesting.. My father was a master welder for 35 years.. he always told me he had to lower the voltage on his machine in order to weld it properly.. there must be a few techniques to do this.. anyhow.. it's a debate for a threat other than this one ;)

I notice the MAF sensor is next to the intake filter. Since your running VTA your going to run extremely rich whenever you blow off bc the air accounted by the MAF is being blown out. I've done this in my evo and it would blow fire out the exhaust. Does your car blow fireballs too? I know the RX8 blows fireballs stock, so I'm could only imagine how big yours are. Also something that intrigues me is my MGP would drop from 20 to 17, yet yours appears to not have dropped much with the addition of the turbocharger and VTA BOV.
The E-Manage has an algorithm that clamps the MAF when it sees the throttle drop to zero. That way, the unused metered air does very little to the A/Fs as it is blown off.

Hmm.. interesting.. My father was a master welder for 35 years.. he always told me he had to lower the voltage on his machine in order to weld it properly.. there must be a few techniques to do this.. anyhow.. it's a debate for a threat other than this one ;)
Yeah, voltage goes way down but the wire feed speed goes way up.

The E-Manage has an algorithm that clamps the MAF when it sees the throttle drop to zero. That way, the unused metered air does very little to the A/Fs as it is blown off.
I really need to get this password for the e-manage. If I can get it by friday when we go to the dyno, could you help me lock that in?

I really need to get this password for the e-manage. If I can get it by friday when we go to the dyno, could you help me lock that in?
Well, I'd think they have that enabled to some extent in your kit already.
But, perhaps not.
It won't completely stop the pops in part-throttle transitions out of boost, but it will correct any bogging in partial boost up-shifts.

Well, I'd think they have that enabled to some extent in your kit already.
But, perhaps not.
It won't completely stop the pops in part-throttle transitions out of boost, but it will correct any bogging in partial boost up-shifts.


The only bogging I notice isn't when I up-shift (that's perfect), but when current throttle position stops acceleration. For instance. I get on the throttle a little in 4th gear and when the boost pressure gets closer to vacume from lack of additional fuel, the BOV goes off because of the vaccume being created after the throttle body. I think the MAF sensor is giving me hell because of the unmetered air escaping the system. Does that make sense at all? The only thing I can do to stop that "bog" is to get off the throttle and let the intake get into a vaccume state and gradually apply the throttle until I get the desired speed, or go WOT until my next upshift. But when you go from boost to a vaccume state while still on the throttle, it gets bogged down at the neutral state between boost and vaccume.

Is that normal for most turbo's? I've never driven a FI car before this ;)

Have you guys tried the password mentioned way back earlier in the thread here?

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=688934&highlight=password#post688934

Thats a CZ password...not one from Greddy........

The only bogging I notice isn't when I up-shift (that's perfect), but when current throttle position stops acceleration. For instance. I get on the throttle a little in 4th gear and when the boost pressure gets closer to vacume from lack of additional fuel, the BOV goes off because of the vaccume being created after the throttle body. I think the MAF sensor is giving me hell because of the unmetered air escaping the system. Does that make sense at all? The only thing I can do to stop that "bog" is to get off the throttle and let the intake get into a vaccume state and gradually apply the throttle until I get the desired speed, or go WOT until my next upshift. But when you go from boost to a vaccume state while still on the throttle, it gets bogged down at the neutral state between boost and vaccume.

Is that normal for most turbo's? I've never driven a FI car before this ;)
the vaccum to boost transition is pretty tough to tune perfectly. since youre going from a stock vaccum map with correction values, into a boost map that is all from the emanage. OEM's dont have this problem so much, since their maps include boost.

the vaccum to boost transition is pretty tough to tune perfectly. since youre going from a stock vaccum map with correction values, into a boost map that is all from the emanage. OEM's dont have this problem so much, since their maps include boost.

going from vacuum to boost isn't the problem, it's from boost to vacuum.. I found a way around it from playing with the throttle though. with the Greddy kit, if the transition from boost to vacuum is quick there isnt any problems.. it's when it's a gradual transition from boost to vacuum that I find it bog down. It's something that I'll definately try to tune out of the maps when I start fiddling around with optimizing performance.

Thanks for the input epitrochoid

You can try hooking up the lower vacuum port on the greddy BOV. It will make your blow off more sensitive, or you can soften the spring up a notch. It seems your spring is too tight. Making it softer will make it quieter/less of the signature greddy sound, but it will definately improve performance and resolve any stalling or compressor surge issues.

You can try hooking up the lower vacuum port on the greddy BOV. It will make your blow off more sensitive, or you can soften the spring up a notch. It seems your spring is too tight. Making it softer will make it quieter/less of the signature greddy sound, but it will definately improve performance and resolve any stalling or compressor surge issues.


The BOV is hooked at the lower vacuum port to the vacuum line right behind the throttle body. I had to tighten up the BOV because it would stall at the stock setting of the BOV because it wasn't firm enough (was letting TOO much air out of the system). It killed a little bit of the sound and made it more high pitched (though it sounds great still, very LOUD), but it won't stall the car from letting off the throttle from full boost.

I'm kind of confused now.. won't making the BOV more sensitive create a situation where it would stall easier from more unmetered air getting out of the system? I would think tightening it would be where I would want to go.

Now your confusing me. The lower vacuum port is supposed to be connected to a source still pressurized after the throttle plate closes (IC pipes). It is an optional port and is intended for high horsepower cars. The top vacuum port is supposed to be connected to a vacuum source.

By sensitive I was meaning boost. It makes it more resistant in a vacuum state because it holds the valve down. Road race engineering told me told me softening the spring improves stalling issues and performance. I was reluctant at first but they were correct. It will make you run richer from the unmetered air, but it will help keep the turbo spooled and prevent compressor surge. Thats the disadvantage of running VTA.

The BOV is hooked at the lower vacuum port to the vacuum line right behind the throttle body. I had to tighten up the BOV because it would stall at the stock setting of the BOV because it wasn't firm enough (was letting TOO much air out of the system). It killed a little bit of the sound and made it more high pitched (though it sounds great still, very LOUD), but it won't stall the car from letting off the throttle from full boost.

I'm kind of confused now.. won't making the BOV more sensitive create a situation where it would stall easier from more unmetered air getting out of the system? I would think tightening it would be where I would want to go.
The lower port on a two port BOV is a pressure port. The upper port is the vacuum port.
You want to run the compression screw at about 50% of maximum and the vacuum source you are using to the upper nipple on the BOV.

So, once and for all can someone explain the reason for 2 ports? and the top one is the main one? to run the vaccuum line too?

Mike

The top port is for vacuum and is attached to the intake manifold after the throttle plate.
When the throttle is closed, the IM goes into vacuum and liftes the piston in the BOV to release the pressure under it.
The bottom port (on BOVs that have one) is attached to the pressure port on the turbo where the wastergate gets its signal. This is at a higher pressure than the air in the pipe that the BOV is attached to because it hasn't suffered the losses of the intercooler and such.
This added pressure signal lifts the piston even faster and is useful in haigh boost applications where the BOV might not open fast enough otherwise.

If you haven't done so already, I would replace those tie-raps with something more durable. That hot mainfold is going to melt them. If that line starts to leak, you could loose oil pressure fairly quickly. Also since heat rises, I would cover that entire oil line with that heat sheild material.....not just that small part.


http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38732

Funny part is that portion of the line is actually metal, you only have about 6 or 7 in of ground you need to cover with the hose. i also used the sticky tape to cover mine, worked like a charm. Also on the bov, how much boost are we talking about before you need to use both hookups?

Ooopsie, just looked and I do have it on the top one.. heh.. sorry guys, been really tired lately ;)

If you haven't done so already, I would replace those tie-raps with something more durable. That hot mainfold is going to melt them. If that line starts to leak, you could loose oil pressure fairly quickly. Also since heat rises, I would cover that entire oil line with that heat sheild material.....not just that small part.


http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38732
True, i'll put wires ties around them today ;)

I am actually getting better gas mileage by 2mpg! It's quite strange, especially since I've been pushing it kind of hard. I would speculate that by trying to keep the car out of boost and in a vaccume state while city driving, I'm getting better gas mileage because of that.

As for the fire out the exhaust, I did scare one car today. I had an unusually large backfire :p.. well he was tail gating me and I made it happen by tapping the throttle to get a little extra unburnt fuel into the exhaust. The catalytic converter catches mose of it, but I do occasionally shoot out a flame or two. If I ever run straight pipes, I'll shoot out flames quite often.


So with the 2mpg increase what is that bringing up your intown MPG too, around 14mpg? or 17? just around town, mine get 15 if I drive in 6th everywhere or 13ish if I drive it how I want too... and I get high 18's with mixed highway/city driving... so just curious on where yours was prior to the change...

So with the 2mpg increase what is that bringing up your intown MPG too, around 14mpg? or 17? just around town, mine get 15 if I drive in 6th everywhere or 13ish if I drive it how I want too... and I get high 18's with mixed highway/city driving... so just curious on where yours was prior to the change...

Currently I'm at 13mpg. Before the turbo it was 10-11mpg. With my driving style, I always keep the rev's between 3.5k and 5k so I can stay in the power band. How in order to stay "out of boost" I can't give as much throttle as I used to driving around the city. So I try to keep the revs around 3.5k tops while in traffic otherwise the car will really jump if the boost kicks in. Make sense?

SIDE NOTE: I mentioned in another thread after I cleared the non-volatile memory that gas milage went up to 22mpg, that was for 1 tank only.. then it went back down to 10mpg'ish.. heh..

Wow. Your gas mileage is terrible.

I typically see about 17 MPG and I thought that was bad.

Of course, right now with the turbo and all the fuel curve adjustments I am making, I'm around 14 MPG.
On the highway, I still see around 20 MPG.

ok, how do you clear the non volitile memory, is that the disconnect the negative terminal for 30 min?, If so shoot, I'll hook up a switch to the cable and just do that while I'm filling up and washing windows and such... if it gives me 22mpg... hehe...

C...while in traffic...

Guys sorry for the possible idiotic question again, but reading Jon's post, this came to my mind: what about heat?

I remember the FD had some heat problems when moving in traffic, right? What about the FI rx8?

Thanks:)

Guys sorry for the possible idiotic question again, but reading Jon's post, this came to my mind: what about heat?

I remember the FD had some heat problems when moving in traffic, right? What about the FI rx8?

Thanks:)

I'm not worried about heat when I'm running 7psi of boost. If I ever decide to "up the dosage" I may up grade the radiator.

I think the only thing the Greddy kit is really missing is som heat shilding for the manifold .
There is some aluminized wrap on som eof the snsitive bits, but I prefer aluminum plate to totally separate the manifold/turbo from the engine compartment.

I think the only thing the Greddy kit is really missing is som heat shilding for the manifold .
There is some aluminized wrap on som eof the snsitive bits, but I prefer aluminum plate to totally separate the manifold/turbo from the engine compartment.
Yeah, we taped it up pretty good with heat shield tape.. However, I may get some scrap sheet aluminum and see if I can fabricate a diffferent shield.

Personally I think Greddy should have included a upgraded oil cooler. If Mazda thought it was vital enough for them to put it in the Mazdaspeed RX8 in Japan, it may prove vital in a force inducted RX8.

Personally I think Greddy should have included a upgraded oil cooler. If Mazda thought it was vital enough for them to put it in the Mazdaspeed RX8 in Japan, it may prove vital in a force inducted RX8.

By upgraded, do they mean they added another one to the JDM 8? IIRC the JDM regular 8 only had one while the US version already had two installed. I could be horribly wrong on this of course, but I vaguely remember reading something to this effect, can anyone confirm?

BTW, let me add my congrats phildox, I've been away from the site for a while and it was a pleasent surprise to come back and see your early successes with the greddy kit, keep it up :D

Jon, you were referencing a bog situation a few posts back. This is just a hypothesis/curiosity, but the throttle plate is electronically actuated in the drive by wire. Perhaps the actuator isn't strong enough to stay open at partial throttle with the velocity of the FI airflow. Might be something else to look at.

Jon, you were referencing a bog situation a few posts back. This is just a hypothesis/curiosity, but the throttle plate is electronically actuated in the drive by wire. Perhaps the actuator isn't strong enough to stay open at partial throttle with the velocity of the FI airflow. Might be something else to look at.

That could be a possibility, but I think it has more to do with fine tuning the air/fuel maps so the transfer between the "boost" maps and stock settings is more seamless.

this is one long thread - not got time to read it all, but someone on the UK owners club forum posted a link straight to the page with the video link.........dude that sounds sweet :D good luck with it! maybe one day when my warranty runs out................

fwiw, your rx8 is behaving very close to how my miata did, with it's VTA BOV...

the greddy 8 at SEMA had two greddy oil coolers in the OEM locations. just for bling I'd assume....given a fixed area and number, it's hard to improve on the oil cooler design.

and jon, when you had to remove the one motor mount, what did you use? can it be removed and the others hold the motor alright? or do you need to put a tranny jack on the motor?

that and are there any other uncommon tools you needed during the install? im trying to decide if i get it whether or not I need a professional to install it...i can hold my own with a wrench, but i have a limited tool supply.

fwiw, your rx8 is behaving very close to how my miata did, with it's VTA BOV...

Did the problem clear up when you recirculated the air, instead of venting it?

Jon, you were referencing a bog situation a few posts back. This is just a hypothesis/curiosity, but the throttle plate is electronically actuated in the drive by wire. Perhaps the actuator isn't strong enough to stay open at partial throttle with the velocity of the FI airflow. Might be something else to look at.
Nope. Pressure isn't a factor there and the plate can sever a finger if you give it a chance. :eek:

and jon, when you had to remove the one motor mount, what did you use? can it be removed and the others hold the motor alright? or do you need to put a tranny jack on the motor?
You can let it dangle, but you will need to jack it up and down to get the mount in and out and work the turbo and manifold in and out.

that and are there any other uncommon tools you needed during the install? im trying to decide if i get it whether or not I need a professional to install it...i can hold my own with a wrench, but i have a limited tool supply.
You will need a crow's foot wrench or the Mazda special tool (49 T018 001 or similar) in 22mm to remove the O2 sensor and a similarly sized deep socket to remove the oil pressure sensor.

Did the problem clear up when you recirculated the air, instead of venting it?


I never recirculated the air...I left it alone; changed my driving style to drive around the issue. :) I didn't want to give up the sound of the BOV, because the turbo was nearly silent. :(

hehe :)

wish there was a way to put a switch on it so one way it vents it so everyone in there dog can hear that psssshhhhttttt... and then the other way (recirculate it) it will drive camaro's and mustangs, even srt-4's wild trying to figure out what just happened.. why did the car with angry eyes just beat me that isn't suppose to happen... :D that way with one part you get best of both worlds.. quiet when you want it, and not when you don't

Well, decided to get some more turbo toys. Amoung them are a turbo timer and boost controller. Here's what I'm getting:

GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer (Black color)
GReddy Profec B 2 Electronic Boost Controller

I was kicking around the idea of getting the Profec E-01, but I don't really need all the bells and whistles (though it does look hot!).

wish there was a way to put a switch on it so one way it vents it so everyone in there dog can hear that psssshhhhttttt... and then the other way (recirculate it) it will drive camaro's and mustangs, even srt-4's wild trying to figure out what just happened.. why did the car with angry eyes just beat me that isn't suppose to happen... :D that way with one part you get best of both worlds.. quiet when you want it, and not when you don't
GFB stealth fx...for like the 10th time lol

hehe, only a few hours since I asked a question and I have to thank you for the answer on a different page:) either this thread is sick or everyone here is turbojunkie....

well, thanks guys:D

couldn't you have used the profec E-01 to tune the greddy emanage? with the password of course.

couldn't you have used the profec E-01 to tune the greddy emanage? with the password of course.
Yes I could have. However, I am not going to tune the car myself, nor would I even attempt to since I lack the knowledge of how to do it. Knowing that, I decided to go with the Profec B since I won't need the extra bells and whistles the E-01 gives. That and budget is starting to get tight so I wanted to spread what I have left around smartly ;)

couldn't you have used the profec E-01 to tune the greddy emanage? with the password of course.
Yes - and in a lot of ways it is convenient. Cool too.
But doing it with a laptop is a bit easier.

I still use both. I create a MAP on my laptop and load it into the E-Manage.
Then I drive and log on the Profec and make tuning changes.
When I get home I watch the log and offload the tweaked MAP back into the laptop where I analyze it and make changes to smooth transitions and look for minor mistakes or glitches.
Then I save it trough my wireless network from the garage and load it back into the E-Manage.

Yes - and in a lot of ways it is convenient. Cool too.
But doing it with a laptop is a bit easier.

I still use both. I create a MAP on my laptop and load it into the E-Manage.
Then I drive and log on the Profec and make tuning changes.
When I get home I watch the log and offload the tweaked MAP back into the laptop where I analyze it and make changes to smooth transitions and look for minor mistakes or glitches.
Then I save it trough my wireless network from the garage and load it back into the E-Manage.

what amount of boost are you tuning for Jeff? If I can't get the password for my e-manage, I may ask to have a copy of your base map so I have something to work with when I go to the tuner.

I just change the main jet and the air corrector jet. Then I might change the emulsion tube and sometimes the idle jet. For a bog I might change the squirter and/or the pump bleedback plus the pump rod on rare occations. Mostly just the spring.
I can change the choke size if I'm having to much trouble getting rid of a bog or on the other hand can use more top end.

Not in that particular order though. It would depend on other clues.
I would just set the timing at the known max below peak tq with maybe a retard above when peak boost came in.