There are many owners with Navigation who want the ability to have video in, but they worry about cutting wires for fear of voiding their warranties. I know this because I was one of those people who were anxiously waiting for some sort of plug and play solution so I wouldn’t have to cut any wires. But I got impatient :)

I, with no prior experience in car mods, let alone electrical mods (besides light bulbs and an aldyhyde filter change) decided to order and install the avelectronics unit I bought from thew at RX8garage.net (http://www.rx8garage.net) which is now Mazdaparts.com (http://mazdaparts.com)

I choose the avelectronics box because of all the features and all-in-one solution it provides.
I purchased the S-Video edition and also the OEM RCA connector which thew has a DIY on installing. This avelectronic unit is the newer version and provides independent video switching for each monitor.

Attached are:
A) Picture of the unit with all enclosed parts, in the upper right is the toggle switch which you can mount anywhere and switches between the Nav input and the Av box input on the Nav display. The remote, on the bottom right has 4 buttons, all which illuminate in blue LED when depressed represent 4 monitors, the first monitor will be your nav display. By depressing each button it cycles between the 4 inputs, even the backup camera if you have one hooked up on input 4 (for nascar style cam in the car). This means you can have 4 monitors with 4 different inputs all at the same time or unlimited combinations of each…obviously the Navigation display will be the only one to display the NAV unit output when the toggle switch is in the off position.

B) And a picture of what the end result will be, this picture I took did not come out great with moving video but it gives you an idea of what you will be looking at when you are complete.


--------------------------------------------
UPDATE!!!!
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I went from ordering from Thew to selling these through Mazdaparts.com. Plus there is a new unit available...the Video on Nav lite...costs much less but less features of course. Expect 1-2 weeks before shipment due to its current special order status.

For the install you will need a several tools and supplies.
a. medium Phillips head screw driver
b. small to medium flat head screw driver
c. needle nose pliers, regular pliers
d. deep socket wrench 10mm and 12mm
e. high quality electrical tape
f. heat shrink tubing (optional, for a cleaner looking install)
g. towels to protect parts and interior from each other
h. about 16 screw type quick connects (for 18-22 gauge wires), they are the red kind and can be picked up at most auto parts stores (autozone, Checker AP)
i. about 6 wire taps 16-22 gauge size
j. (optional) small soldering iron, pen style

Here we go…

1. move both front seats forward, ALL the way, and tilt the seat backs forward as well to leave lots of room in the back.
2. disconnect the battery, using a 10mm attachment on the deep socket wrench on the negative battery terminal (terminal closest to the front of the car) you can use the inner side of the battery cover to protect the terminal from reconnection with the ground wires
3. remove rear seat (s). I’m left handed so I wanted my left arm free for hooking up the nav connections so I removed the rear passenger’s seat. Feel free to remove which one feels better…or remove both if you wish, but have pillow on hand or you will be sitting on metal for a while  To remove a rear seat simply pull up FIRMLY on the front edge of the bottom cushion, there are two clips keeping the cushion down, one where your left leg would sit and one where your right leg would sit. After releasing these clips pull the cushion back slowly so as to not get the metal guide (attached to back of cushion) touching the back cushion. Now place this button cushion somewhere safe, preferably out of the car if you have room.

Now take a 12mm (I’m pretty sure it is 12mm) and remove the two bolts at the bottom of the seat back cushion, there is one visible closest to the center console and another hidden behind the seat belt. After removing the bolts place them where your butt would be if there were a cushion there, the will stay there so you don’t loose them 

Now lift up on the cushion back and it will dislodge from its mounts. Now you can place this seat back cushion right in front of the seat area, using a towel to protect the leather/carpet. If you dislodge the seat belt from the holder at the top of the cushion you can remove the cushion from the car all together.

4. remove the front center console: twist the shift knob counter-clockwise and remove, place somewhere safe. Wrap the head of the flat head screwdriver in electrical tape, wedge in between the front center console piece and the silver accent pieces on the side. Carefully pry up the center piece and pull up an inch or two. Disconnect the heated seat connectors (two, black and white) if you have them, then disconnect the Nav controller connector. Do this by squeezing the sides of the connector and pressing in the side of the clip with your fingernail, all while pulling out at the same time. Place this front center console piece somewhere safe, becareful not to let the underside scratch other parts of the car.

5. Now with the Phillips head screwdriver remove the 4 screws located in the pics, there is one in the front of the center piece of the center console, which is pointed out by a green arrow in the picture. There is one located under the felt like ‘carpet’ piece in the center hidden box where the power outlet is, and then there are two located under this same type of carpeting in front of the nav unit. All these screws are the same, make sure to place them somewhere safe (not in the console itself since it will be removed). Make sure to put those two felt like pieces somewhere safe as well (a good spot is in the back window area ).

6. Now dislodge the power outlet in the center console by placing the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape still on it in the little rectangular hole and pry up just until it clicks loose. Then the piece firmly outward toward the front of the car. Disconnect this piece by releasing the connector on the back of the outlet that connects the outlet to one of the wiring harnesses in the center console.

7. Before you do this step remove the pass-through panel (the one that locks) and place it somewhere safe, in the trunk is good if you want (remember the bottom ‘arms’ that make up the hinge of the pass through panel can scratch up many things so be careful). Removing the pass-through reveals two screws holding the rear center console piece down, remove them.

Now…lift up on the entire rear 2/3s console piece. Instead of just pulling out the middle though you will be removing the middle and the silver accent pieces on the side…just shimmy it like the front piece you already removed and it will completely come out…the big long console (there is no need to separate any of the pieces removed) just place it somewhere safe, it can be in the car just use the towels to protect the rest of the interior.

8. You will now have the Nav’s DVD unit exposed, as you can see from the pics. There are 3 screws on each side of the Nav DVD unit…using the Phillips head screwdriver remove all of them…don’t worry about the nav dropping down, it is wedged in there tight. Be careful not to drop any of the screws because it is very difficult to access deep under the navigation unit. Now place the screws somewhere safe.

9. Now while pulling on the brackets that hold the unit that you just removed screws from pull up and forward the DVD unit. You will find you can’t go very far as the wiring harness is taped to a clear strap to keep it down tight…loosen the tape and dislodge the wiring harness from the strap (you can see the strap on the right of the freshly removed nav unit picture.

10. You will cut a small incision in the heat shrink surrounding the cables for the connector as you can see from the diagram or the picture above or below. This will expose the cables and give you access to the sync, blue, green, and red wires that connect the dvd nav unit with the nav display. Use the diagram attached to make sure you have the correct wires. Now cut, about 1-3 inches from the connector these 4 wires (wherever is most comfortable to you and however much room the wiring harness affords you but you want to leave about ½ an inch on each side of the cut to allow room for a quick connect or a solder).

11. Now take the light grey thick cable coming from the av box…while the av box is in the trunk on the passengers side, run the cable under the plastic black wall, down into where the back of the dvd unit sits, give it some slack since you can always pull it tighter later.

12. There are 9 cables coming out of this light grey thick cable. They wires are clearly marked what goes to what. Using the wires intended to provide a video out to the nav (as indicated by the sticker on the wires and the instructions provided) use a red quick connector to connect the cut wire with the av box wire, you will need to strip a quarter inch or so of the nav wire before inserting in one of the caps of the quick connectors and screwing together. Connect these 4 wires from the av box to their nav counter part. Then move in to the 4 wires that come from the connector and IN to the avbox…do the same using quick connects. If you are able to do so solder these connections instead of using the quick connects, the quick connects are working great but I did intend on soldering them for a cleaner install…but it is hidden so who cares?

13. Now there is one other wire coming from the grey wire bundle and that is a black ground…simply connect this to the dvd ground which is the black/red wire that has a single white connector on it and is the second connector from the left on the back of the dvd nav unit. You can unscrew the screw and screw it in with the wire behind it, this will work fine but I made a slight modification. I took a short slightly thicker wire and connected it to the screw then quick connected it to the black wire from the grey wire bundle, this way there would be no stress on the tiny wire of the av box. (you can also use a wire tap to tap the dvd ground wire if you choose, much easier actually, but I just thought about it now :) ).

14. Now is the time to tap the back up cam wire and connect it to the ground that activates it on the nav box when you put the car in reverse. If you do not intend to use a backup camera anytime soon you might as well hookup this cable since it only takes a minute and then you don’t have to take apart everything to access it. Using the diagram of the connector (it is the far right connector) where the arrow points, gain access to that wire. Use a 2 ft long twisty style insulated 18 or 20 gauge wire to insert in the tap. Place the backup cam wire in the pass through of the tap and use a combination of the two pliers to close the tap and click it shut bridging the connection. Now run this wire into the trunk and tape it to the box until you are going to connect it to the reverse cam wire to activate the cam during reverse, when you get a camera that is.

15. Now find a location for the toggle switch that came with the unit (switches between nav display and av box video ins remember)…mount it however you choose, replace it with a different switch if you wish, it is up to you. Run the wire down the center console on the side the same as the wiring harness, be sure not to get it near the shift boot or the E-brake. Now plug into the avbox. One location suggestion is a dummy blank.

16. Hooking up the power (with fuse built in). You will need to extend the wires of the power connector by using 16 or 18 gauge wire which will be tapping the center power outlet. Cut the wires for the power outlet about 2 inches from the connector (you must cut open the heat shrink first). Then use to wire taps to bridge the green wire with the red of the extended wire and then tap the black wire (ground) with the black wire of the extended wire...now run this extended wire into the trunk and use quick connects to connect with the original power wires and connect the power connector to the av box so it is snug.

17. Now for testing purposes slightly unscrew one of the DVD bracket bolts and slide a foot long exposed wire under it and then tighten the bolt. Run this wire into the trunk with the rest of them and use a quick connector to bridge this wire with the brake ground wire (labeled on the wire, it is orange). Note this is just for testing, you will need to tap the E-brake wire so that the unit will only operate when parked. I take no responsibility, nor does Avelectronic or www.mazdaparts.com (where I bought the unit) if you do not connect it to the e-brake, and then have an accident.

18. Now run the RCA audio cables that you will provide from the PIE (however you connect it to the HU is up to you, I use the PIE box) down the center console (same spot as toggle switch wire). Have it run under the dvd location and out to the trunk and connect to the AV1 output (same output as the NAV output light grey cable bundle). While you are at it hook up some sort of video source to the AV1 inputs, I used a shitty portable dvd player but it had S-Video out and RCA out with cables provided. I started it up making sure it was giving a video out signal in the menu.

19. Now connect your battery. Turn on car (don’t need to start engine). Flip the toggle switch so it is on, it will turn you Nav display black or show the video source. Then press the remote that came with the av box for the monitor one, press it multiple times until the video is displayed…it should be working! Sit back and watch for a few minutes in all its glory :):):). You will notice a light colored white scrolling bar, this will occur if you have not grounded your video source. If you are getting no signal, keep playing with the remote. If no video is displayed (nav or av box) turn off car and check all connections and make sure the taps are fully closed and squeezed together). Make it clean.

20. Disconnect your battery again…now get out your electrical tape and start taping up all of the taps and connections you have made to protect them and prevent vibration. This is also the time to mount your av box…you can simply bolt it onto the plastic wall in the back of the trunk or if you wish behind the rear passengers seat behind the structural metal slat. Now carefully return the DVD unit by guiding the wire harness plus your new wires behind the unit. Now reinstall everything…just work your way backwards not forgetting any screws…it is easy.

21. Reconnect battery. Turn on car and start engine if you have DSC. Calibrate the DSC since it will be blinking an making noise. Do so by turning steering wheel all the way right then all the way left, light will go out, then turn off car.

22. Now enjoy the unit, feel free to hookup more monitors or more video sources, remember that if you have a backup cam it will use one of the video sources (AV 4 I believe). Remember to ground your video sources as well…ground them to the same ground points to prevent ground loop feedback.

23. If I’m missing anything else I’ll slowly add it after it is reviewed. PS. I love this thing.

Great! I don't understand very much 14Th poit, but it is not very important!

he is saying that if you want to hook up the optional RearView Backup camera later on. now is the time to run that wire. If not the skip that point.

But, where did he install the rear camera?

But, where did he install the rear camera?


He didn't install the camera... he just made it so the wire was available.




I'm sorry, and maybe its not PC, but it's getting to be a bit like "cousin Balky" over here. :rolleyes:

This is on my list of mods for sure - excellent job guys. How about mounting a forward facing camera also, for those parking curbs. Also, I think a connection for Hymee's software from a PC S-Video output might work. What do your guys think? Is this four inputs PLUS the NAV?

OFF NAV
ON
1) DVD (from separate DVD player)
2) Rear Camera
3) Forward Camera
4) PC

Will this work??

Awesome DIY! I also have the DVD player offered by avelectronics. I hooked everything up and the remote didn't work. I took it all apart again and it turned out to be the ground from the TV tuner/antenna. It works if I unhook that ground wire. I'm still left with the high ringing (whistling) that mocks the transmission through the speakers. It has to be because of a ground somewhere. It's not the one previously discussed. I've checked and rechecked my connections. I have the FM Modulator and I'm leaning towards it having something to do with that. Anyone else have this problem and they figured it out??
Besides that everything is great! It was awesome watching the news going down the interstate. I would also like to add that this DIY saved me $400 from the audio place down the street for installation!

you need the Pie adapter and you need a Filter for your Pos lead to filter out your RF whine from the Alt. ANd the Pie Adapter will give you direct line input no RF at all .

But, where did he install the rear camera?

I haven't yet...but I will really soon

I just didn't want to be putting the car in reverse and having a black image so I am waiting to get the backup cam then I'll connect the wire I prepared with the activation wire on the av box

Makes me wish I'd gotten the nav! :(

Great DIY. :D

This is on my list of mods for sure - excellent job guys. How about mounting a forward facing camera also, for those parking curbs. Also, I think a connection for Hymee's software from a PC S-Video output might work. What do your guys think? Is this four inputs PLUS the NAV?

OFF NAV
ON
1) DVD (from separate DVD player)
2) Rear Camera
3) Forward Camera
4) PC

Will this work??

yes :) the nav isn't considered an input...technically

Iwas thinking about a forward cam too...I keep parking 2-3 ft from the car I'm so cautious :D

oh and that dvd player you have as an input can be a tv tuner too if you get a combo device (plus it allows even MORE video audio inputs :)

So, as long as the source is either composite (RCA) or S-Video, (if this option is ordered), the AVelectronics unit will display it. My laptop will output S-Video, so my question about the PC being an input might work. I'm curious as to the aspect ratios. Will this pass thru 16:9 DVD sources and fill the whole screen? Or will there be a black bar on the top and bottom of the image? What about the cameras? Do they fill the whole screen also? Sorry I have so many questions, but this is the solution that I was looking for.

the screen is 16x9 approximately...so dvds, if they are 16x9 fill the whole screen and don't look eschew...4x3 format is pulled wide but if you have a dvd player that can black bar the SIDES then you will have a 4x3 image

the camera will fill the whole screen since there is no technology in the camera to put black bars on the sides

really since the screen is 7inches the non widescreen source doesn't look that bad (ie several concerts I have in 4x3) on the nav's widescreen...I don't even put the dvd player into 4:3 output with black bars on the sides since it looks fine

one nice thing is hooking up an xbox...set it up for widescreen and it makes a huge difference in playability...just like it does on the widescreen TV at home

I'll hookup a laptop with svideo out and tell you how it goes...I'll try to do it tonight but I may need a day or two

I'll try to take a picture of the screen...but the pic never seems to come out right

you need the Pie adapter and you need a Filter for your Pos lead to filter out your RF whine from the Alt. ANd the Pie Adapter will give you direct line input no RF at all .

Great Call! The positive lead on the FM Modulator? How do I get something like this?

Yes. the lap tops svideo out is really imo the best use for the Svideo in. The 8 lcd is 16*9 so even the non svideo input looks awsome. The best way to get good 800*600 res from the Lap top is the Svideo path. My carputer box will be a combo av and pc box. It will use the av svideo line into the Nav system . Then all the PC's fuctuons like dvd, and such will be in svideo. Then you will still have 3 more input options with the 3 other rca inputs as well as an svideo input in the pc for an extra svideo input.

Look in my vendor forum or log onto my web site

as for the Filter i sell some nice Pie filters it goes on the Pos lead of your AV equipment . it needs to fliter all you av equipments Pos 12 volt power. So i should go infront of all your gear after a fuse. then power all the grear off the filter.




Great Call! The positive lead on the FM Modulator? How do I get something like this?

Yes. the lap tops svideo out is really imo the best use for the Svideo in. The 8 lcd is 16*9 so even the non svideo input looks awsome. The best way to get good 800*600 res from the Lap top is the Svideo path. My carputer box will be a combo av and pc box. It will use the av svideo line into the Nav system . Then all the PC's fuctuons like dvd, and such will be in svideo. Then you will still have 3 more input options with the 3 other rca inputs as well as an svideo input in the pc for an extra svideo input.

Matt, you just made my day - now where did I put that money... :rolleyes:

I'll hookup a laptop with svideo out and tell you how it goes...I'll try to do it tonight but I may need a day or two

I'll try to take a picture of the screen...but the pic never seems to come out right

Well, any photos? How did the PC to S-Video look?

Well, any photos? How did the PC to S-Video look?

to busy, sorry :( I'll try to fit it in this week...before the car goes in for winter tires and tsbs

truemagellan, is there any way to remove the dvd unit without removing the entire rear center console pieces? From the other threads it sounded like all I had to do was lift the cover of the compartment and pull the dvd unit, without unscrewing anything... but there werent step by step directions.

truemagellan, is there any way to remove the dvd unit without removing the entire rear center console pieces? From the other threads it sounded like all I had to do was lift the cover of the compartment and pull the dvd unit, without unscrewing anything... but there werent step by step directions.

unfortunately no...or let me put it this way 'yes but you will damage something and have one heck of a time removing the unit'

The center console accents are hooked to the center console pieces for the back...in the front center console piece this is not a problem because you can just lift the piece out

For the back the accents are attatched and kind of a pain to remove without damaging something so your better off pulling off the entire back piece which includes the cup holders back to the trunk

also one thing I want to stress is removing ATLEAST one of the rear back seats, the seat and back cushion....the console pieces are rather sharp and it could easily snag the cloth and even the leather interior

Really removing the pieces are easy...I would say the only hard part is safely popping up the front center console piece...but once you get it down it is easy...a tip stated many times before is key...use electrical tape, I reccomend two layers, on a small flathead (standard) screwdriver

I'll take more detailed pics when I install a modded xbox in a few weeks

-J

Makes me wish I'd gotten the nav! :(

Great DIY. :D

Ditto! I want my MTV! :) The nav wasn't worth it for me, but this would have been... Oh well.

Ditto! I want my MTV! :) The nav wasn't worth it for me, but this would have been... Oh well.

Ninja, you can still add a spearate LCD screen to the car, and make use of these ideas. You don't need the NAV screen to make this a cool addon.

Ninja, you can still add a spearate LCD screen to the car, and make use of these ideas. You don't need the NAV screen to make this a cool addon.

That's true. I think the beauty of this is the integration where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. I didn't get the nav and I have never considered front/rear cams, and I don't think I should be trying to play with my lap top when I'm driving... But with everything all integrated, I can see LOTS more added value.

I know... I'll follow you on the next "ride" and let my wife be my extra set of eyes when parking and let our conversation be my entertainment while we drive... Oh yeah, that's what I did the last time! :D

Well everyone...an idea of mine I thought of while I made the DIY I never tried, well today it popped into my head. The avelectronic box I bought at www.rx8garage.net , the one in this DIY comes with a remote you can see from the pictures...it is Radio Frequency (RF) based not like the other avelectronic unit's remote...this means two things...one you can operate the remote outside of the car
and
in theory since it is RF the Homelink mirror buttons should work with it...

Well tonight I tried and after holding both the button on the remote and the button on the homelink for approximately 45 seconds until the light starts flashing fast (wait after it flashed slow for a few seconds) IT WORKED!

This is good news...it means you don't have to have an extra remote to tool around with (assuming you have a dvd remote and others), just put it in the back compartment so the rear passengers can control it when they want

Just as a reminder, the remote allows you to change between the 4 inputs available, for instance a DVD player, a video game system, an mp3 player, etc.

Unbelievable! Man, I cannot wait to get this project started. Nice update.

and.. i just got the Nav remote from OZ today.. it is so sweet !!!

but very expensive.. :( I hope to insert the code in a cheaper remote..
but i can get them for those that have to have it

can someone explain in lame mans term what this does? i understand it allows you to be ably to play dvds on your nav screen now (correct?) you can change from say and ps2 to a dvd then mp3? i dont get how this helps the mp3 i though its just to allow video on your nav....

can someone explain in lame mans term what this does? i understand it allows you to be ably to play dvds on your nav screen now (correct?) you can change from say and ps2 to a dvd then mp3? i dont get how this helps the mp3 i though its just to allow video on your nav....

I use the PIE box for the audio input into the Head unit, bought at www.rx8garage.net it is crystal clear audio and it is plug and play, this DIY is just for an audio and video switcher that converts video into the RGBs of the Nav screen as well

DateAn8 were did you put the DVD player? Did you replace the stock head unit, or did you put it somewhere else? Also could you post a pic of were it’s at. Thanks

I'm defiantly going to do this with my 8. I just want to see if I should get the DVD player or just play DVDs though a PS2.

I put my DVD player in the rear seat middle pulldown console. When you pull that part down it will fit perfectly into that little cubby. I am using the stock head unit. I'm using wireless to connect the DVD sound to the head unit. I connected the power into the accessory power so that the DVD player will remember when it starts back up. For the way that I hooked everything up, it is essential to have a remote control to turn the power on, and use the menu options.

hey DateAn8...you should look into getting the PIE adapter to put crystal clear sound into the head unit instead of through an RF FM transmitter where the sound suffers severly

@truemagellen

Sooo... how did it work out? Did you try to connect your laptop? Did you manage to connect a xbox?

Tell us! =D

@truemagellen

Sooo... how did it work out? Did you try to connect your laptop? Did you manage to connect a xbox?

Tell us! =D

:D well I've been pretty busy lately and have not added the DIY for the camera or the Xbox which are almost 100% installed

the camera DIY I'll add in the next few weeks...I chose to do a very simple install so that others could emulate...it required no drilling or damage to any part of the car (unlike other installs I've done :p) and is completely removable if needed (very difficult for someone to steal too).

the rear view camera comes on when I put the car in reverse even when the nav is running then switches back to whatever was on before when it is put into forward gears or neutral...the picture looks great

The XBOX...
well this has been a saga...the xbox has been complete and hooked up since december but the picture was not great...using an inverter puts noise on the entire electrical system that messes with everything, the camera, sometimes the nav, aftermarket subs, dvd players, etc. unfortunately this sound cannot be filtered out unless a second battery is added and more...really expensive and a pain.

the picture resolution is excellent...the modded xbox interface has custom fonts and a menu system that works great for the rx-8's screen size (thanks to Flyboyindy for that) games look great and movies too

unfortunately the Inverter kept putting noise and scrolling lines on the screen that was annoying and provided serious feedback on the auxilary audio input (I use the PIE after my HU was upgraded). So months went on as I tried about 9 inverters (I am serious 9) and Flyboyindy a friend of mine on the forum tried about 5 or 6...seriously nothing was working. The electrical system of the RX-8 is rather touchy probably because there is not much of a chassis ground due to the many alloys and other lightweight materials used.

But everything worked out this week as I had a local Xbox repair company custom make a DC to DC powersupply setup for the xbox which eliminates the need for an inverter! almost all the noise was gone and I hadn't even made a proper ground :D! so I will be finalizing some of the wiring and cosmetics over the next few weeks...the xbox is currently mounted where the black tire repair kit is...the strap fits perfectly to hold the xbox on the side which is the best for prevention of hard drive damage.

the final step will be integrating xbox controls into the steering wheel for changing tracks while playing music...right now the wireless controllers do the job fine but cant be saftely used while driving unless a passenger helps

I'll be updating with pics and a diy of both...thanks for asking :D

But everything worked out this week as I had a local Xbox repair company custom make a DC to DC powersupply setup for the xbox which eliminates the need for an inverter!

I was wondering what you were doing about that, I ended up just making my own inverter :)

I was wondering what you were doing about that, I ended up just making my own inverter :)

any noise/feedback? if you accomplished it without any that is great...I am not that skilled though :)

With the new power supply I used a shitty ground in the trunk and it looks great but with the poor ground return I'm going to set up a 4 gauge run and return to the battery...this way if I want to add a sub I'll be all set and the video quality should go from great to superb.

One major change was I swapped the stock battery for a Yellow-Topped Optima...now that that is in I have much more leaway to start upgrading (FYI to everyone...the stock battery is a joke:().

I'll upload some pics next week but the DIYs for the backup cam and maybe for the XBOX install will take a few weeks (i'm going to South Africa at the end of May so I'm running out of time).

Does this void the warranty at all? In addition, if I were to use one of the inputs for an Ipod or any other external audio input, would I still be able to view the navigation screen? Because if it does not do this, it would be somewhat useless to me...

Does this void the warranty at all? In addition, if I were to use one of the inputs for an Ipod or any other external audio input, would I still be able to view the navigation screen? Because if it does not do this, it would be somewhat useless to me...

this may void a part of the cable harnesses's warranty but if you are even somewhat carefull you can cover your tracks easily!

as for ipod while nav is running...no problem whatsover...this is a video/audio input with switcher so....when nav is on the audio is seperate...still willl give you directions if you wish and/or play your ipod :D

Okay, well I am just interested in the RX-8 at the moment; I do not actually own one, although I hope to in about five months... I am trying to find a loaded used or possibly '04 RX-8 for no more than $22,000, and hopefully the car will depreciate to that value within these five months of torture! I have a bunch of questions pertaining to this, and if you have an AIM screen name or email, I would be extremely gratified if I could have it so we can talk more directly and extensively; it looks like you know your stuff! Anyways, a few questions immediately come to mind:

1. What are the advantages/disadvantages to using the Interrupter/Switcher from AVElectronic as opposed to the Universal Video Converter shown here (http://www.nav-vision.com//eshop/product_info.php?products_id=40&osCsid=f738840948535477310a8a1822d3d411)? (I am in no way affiliated to either companies...)

2. Doesn't the navigation system have to interrupt the audio signal periodically to tell you to turn left or go straight for 500 feet, etc. So how would it do that if you are using the Ipod? Does it interrupt the signal later in the circuitry or has this issue not yet been addressed?

3. What exactly is the P.I.E.? What are its I/O cables? How does it work? What does it do? I basically have no idea what it is... hahaha

4. I had planned to attempt this on a '04 Accord, and I had devised a way to introduce live antenna television. Would you like to help me figure out how to implement it on an RX-8? (Again, you seem to know your stuff)

5. Where did you mount the DVD player? And the AVElectronic box?

6. Totally unrelated, but WHERE CAN YOU GET THE ATATCHED GRILLE?

Thanks for the info! I realllllllllly want this car, so if any of you see one (especially a winning blue for sale for 24K or less that is loaded or ALMOST loaded, please PLEASE let me know! I will need all the help I can get finding a car like this at that low of a price... :cool: )

This looks like a great mod to perform down the line w/my new nav system but how much do you think it would cost me to have a professional installer do all this work for me? I'm not a big fan of tearing off seats or "making incisions" in wires. I was able to handle installing the mp3 player and wiring a sound system in this car, but that was baby shit compared to this job.

Back when my friend and I were planning on doing a similar mod to his Accord, we called up this place in Brooklyn and they offered it for about $1500 for the DVD ONLY. That means no AUX audio, inability to drive with dvd running as they wired correctly in order to avoid liability issues, and also I do not believe it comes with RF remote. Therefore, I think because of the hefty price, the lack of features, and the inability to upgrade, your best bet is to grab a friend, and spend a weekend modding the car yourselves... It is well worth it! Offer him a beer when it is done, and I think he will jump on the offer!

1. What are the advantages/disadvantages to using the Interrupter/Switcher from AVElectronic as opposed to the Universal Video Converter shown here (http://www.nav-vision.com//eshop/product_info.php?products_id=40&osCsid=f738840948535477310a8a1822d3d411)? (I am in no way affiliated to either companies...)

2. Doesn't the navigation system have to interrupt the audio signal periodically to tell you to turn left or go straight for 500 feet, etc. So how would it do that if you are using the Ipod? Does it interrupt the signal later in the circuitry or has this issue not yet been addressed?

3. What exactly is the P.I.E.? What are its I/O cables? How does it work? What does it do? I basically have no idea what it is... hahaha

4. I had planned to attempt this on a '04 Accord, and I had devised a way to introduce live antenna television. Would you like to help me figure out how to implement it on an RX-8? (Again, you seem to know your stuff)

5. Where did you mount the DVD player? And the AVElectronic box?

6. Totally unrelated, but WHERE CAN YOU GET THE ATATCHED GRILLE?



well first my aim can be reached by clicking on the AIM icon in my profile or from the link in each post...I don't know much about purchasing/financing stuff....but maybe I can help

1. I actually looked at the nav vision unit...but it came down to features....and the backup cams integration, the 4 input (one being svideo) and the nav plus screen (4 output) and RF remote to controll everything really made it clear...I was looking at speending way more with the other unit after I got everything set up the way I liked it...plus the remote for the avelectronic unit can be copied by the homelink buttons, whcih is aawesome! I could say much more about this....but really hands down avelectronics is the way to go

2. the nav 'injects' audio into the front drivers side speaker and do so regardless of what audio you are listening too...so cd or radio or aux in (ex 1) nav will still work just fine...no problems....no worries

3. pie is a small boxwith a connector that plugs intot he back of the head unit...then you get the 8pin to RCA cable that plugs into the box and you now have a crystal clear auxiliary input into the head unit...works great.

4. the old avelectronic box had a tv tuner built in but was not nearly as developed as the current switcher model...addding a tv tuner is no problem...in fact it is on my list of todos after I finish cosmetics on the xbox/avbox in the trunk and install the hymee exhaust....literally plug it into one of the avelectronic inputs...run the ir receiver down the center console and then mount inconspicuously...then hookup to power...and finally run an antenna wire behind the back seats...up the side of the back 'dash' (back facia) and mount on the window...I can show you wfere to buy the tv tuner for really cheap but you'll have to get a better antenna

now I am going to try sharing the radio's antenna...which I believe will work unlike normal rod antennas

5. I dont have a specific dvd player anymore...that was temporary so I never mounted it...I now have a modded xbox that has a 400 gig hard drive so I just load music/movies/music videos/games and such in and so no discs..in fact I'm trying to get rid of the disc drive and mroe already....in hopes of minitaturizing the xbox

6. That billet is a simple car molding that was purchased at pep boys I believe...for a grand total of...8 dollars :D I'll try to find the diy thread for you

Very nice, thanks for all the information! I have a couple more questions, but it is soooooo late that it is early, so I am going to sleep after I post this... :o How do you switch between your auxillary input and the normal input on the P.I.E. box? Additionally, if I were to hook up an Ipod, how am I to go about it? How can you integrate the car with the Ipod so that you can switch songs, raise the volume, etc. using the car's controls (specifically the ones located on the steering wheel)? Can you give me a cost assessment on modding the XBOX, AVElectronic kit, and wiring a 3.5 mm stereo jack through the center console and into the storage area near the driver's seat? What other modifications have you done to your RX-8? Your RX-8 sounds amazing! Where can I get this cheap TV tuner? I have a bunch more questions, but no need to overwhelm you hahahahhaha... Thanks for everything!

Very nice, thanks for all the information! I have a couple more questions, but it is soooooo late that it is early, so I am going to sleep after I post this... :o How do you switch between your auxillary input and the normal input on the P.I.E. box? Additionally, if I were to hook up an Ipod, how am I to go about it? How can you integrate the car with the Ipod so that you can switch songs, raise the volume, etc. using the car's controls (specifically the ones located on the steering wheel)? Can you give me a cost assessment on modding the XBOX, AVElectronic kit, and wiring a 3.5 mm stereo jack through the center console and into the storage area near the driver's seat? What other modifications have you done to your RX-8? Your RX-8 sounds amazing! Where can I get this cheap TV tuner? I have a bunch more questions, but no need to overwhelm you hahahahhaha... Thanks for everything!

There is a primary remote toggle switch which you can install anywhere in the car, it simply swaps between the video inputs of the avelectronic box and the Nav's image...it does not cancel/disable the audio inputs whatsoever

the nice thing about this is you could have a dvd as an input, an xbox, an ipod, a portable XM satellite unit, youcan have the NAV running like always but listen to the dvd (ie a concert on dvd), or the xbox audio, or the ipod audio, or the satellite audio...and you can switch by using the remote, or one of the homelink buttons if you program it...

the steerinng wheel controls can be had with the denison icelink...unfortunately this doent work verywell with the 8 as lots of people are reporting it freezes up...so until they rework it you'll want to stick with a direct aux in (the pie unit) plus it costs less

for ipod controls instead mounting a remote on the steering wheels sounds great but actually the best place to mount buttons is actually on the center console right next to the shift boot...your steering hand is always in action...your shifting hand is not...you can use a simple remote and mount it on top of the console but even nicer would be to disable the remote and mount the remote under the console with the buttons sticking through...very OEM looking :D

as for mounting the dvd...which I never addressed....many have put one in the passthrough, you can probably fit one in the glove compartment (a tiny one) or under the seat

I'm actually using no 3.5mm jacks....everything is wired with high end RCA cables...seperate right and left stereo....the pie uses RCA outs
for you ipod you simply pick up a male stereo RCA to Female 3.5mm Y adaptor from radio shack...then mount the female jack in the center console compartment, or the glove compartment wherever you want to keep your ipod

the cheap tv tuner I can get for 45 but I'm going to see if a forum vendor can carry the product for even less :D...I'll keep you updated

as for the billet grill it will cost $10 not 8 :) here is the diy...you can choose number of bars for the look you want http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=16282

Okay, you have convinced me that an XBox is the ideal way to go especially since I can get one off ebay for about 90 bucks. Storing all my mp3s on the xbox would take a while, but would be well worth it; ditto with the dvds... Is there a way to mount the xbox in the trunk so you can access it from the passthrough in order to put in a dvd or game? Additionally, how much did the custom DC to DC power supply cost you? Also, how did you mod the XBox? I cannot get my xbox to read Audio CD-R's which I have burned, nor can I get it to store DVDs... Explain to me how you did this, because this is certainly intriguing. I really like your ideas, but I have no idea how to do these mods to the XBox! HELP ME!!! hahahah thanks man!

Okay, you have convinced me that an XBox is the ideal way to go especially since I can get one off ebay for about 90 bucks. Storing all my mp3s on the xbox would take a while, but would be well worth it; ditto with the dvds... Is there a way to mount the xbox in the trunk so you can access it from the passthrough in order to put in a dvd or game? Additionally, how much did the custom DC to DC power supply cost you? Also, how did you mod the XBox? I cannot get my xbox to read Audio CD-R's which I have burned, nor can I get it to store DVDs... Explain to me how you did this, because this is certainly intriguing. I really like your ideas, but I have no idea how to do these mods to the XBox! HELP ME!!! hahahah thanks man!

well if you don't know someone to help you mod an xbox...you can call up a company but they won't do any of the software aspect of it (illegal although what I'm doing is game free since I use it for music/movies so technically not illegal :))...best thing to do is find a friend who knows how to do this...as for the dc to dc powersupply...well those guys will also mod the xbox for you...but I'm their first customer for this so they'll wonder how in the world you knew they will be offering it :p

PM me for more details on that...but if you don't know your way around the web and IRC/FTP etc...and don't have a friend to help you with the software, you will struggle and may fail...but in the end the modded xbox is the cheapest way to go

especially when a 160 gig hard drive is only $50! add an Xbox used for $90 and an inexpensive modchip $15, only $155 for a huge music/movie/game server

I ammend my statement...I do have some games but they are all old school emulators...like NES, Neo Geo :D

as for using the drive...you can extend the drive cable to approximately 3 feet...so you could mount the xbox in the trunk and run a drive iinto the center console...really I don't use the drive and may remove it and mod the xbox's size into half...I move all the music/movies/music videos into the xbox by ftp...I also have a wirelss G unit for the xbox and can load files in remotely if needed...or to check the weather when I come across a wifi hotspot...but really I haven't used it yet

Sorry if I missed this, but does the install now avoid splicing wires? Uncle Sam sent me mod money, so electronics are next ;)

Sorry if I missed this, but does the install now avoid splicing wires? Uncle Sam sent me mod money, so electronics are next ;)

Hey Nem, the hope was a plug and play adaptor would come out...but I'm not hearing anything of it

now that I've cut the wires and actually redid the wiring when I got a butane solder iron (definitely not needed! quick connect work great)...I know if you needed to hide the install or remove the installl...piecing it back together without ANYone ever knowning it was modified...is extremely easy...in fact after removing the wiring it would take about 5 minutes to hide it all

20 if you wanted to do a solder job...but again not needed

:D can't wait to see it :)

yes so far the Plugand Paly is on hold.. I have a nice prototype but the connecters seem to be an issue . Its about liability.. However as Truemagellen has pointed out the mod is very easy .. And i can help out over AIM , PHone. ESP :) ..

LEt me know.. also see Truemagellens DIy.. Explaines almost everything.

Solder and shrink tube it. After you tape it back up it's as good as OEM. It's not difficult at all and Trumagellen's DIY is right on. Also, I can vouch for Matt's excellent support (on Sunday at that).

OK, thanks guys. This is my next mod, and just wanted to see if anything was updated on the wiring.

just got about 150 pie boxes in!!! so nows the time to get a Svideo Kit..
Once ihave coverd all the Rx8club members i wil have to raise the cost of the PIE box..

Will these DVD players also play MP3 CDs? or MP3 DVDs?

Will these DVD players also play MP3 CDs? or MP3 DVDs?

many will play both although the mp3 DVD capability is usually not advertised...I must say, MP3 dvds are awesome...especially if it is a dual layer disc, and if it is rewritable it is like having an 8.5 gig drive mounted in your car :D

but I'm still using a modded xbox :)

Yes, i would like to have 1/8th of my music collection in the car on one disc. That would be fantastic.

You coming to SC anytime soon and want to install this shit for me? :D

Yes, i would like to have 1/8th of my music collection in the car on one disc. That would be fantastic.

You coming to SC anytime soon and want to install this shit for me? :D

:D, it is a bit of a drive from the Twin Cities

but if you have questions feel free to contact me (although I'm going out of the country almost all june)

Purchased it finally.... :D

Now I just need to get my act together and not leave it laying around like I normally do with my mods... Dannobre comes by and helps me, so Dan if your reading this... :rolleyes:

Purchased it finally.... :D

Now I just need to get my act together and not leave it laying around like I normally do with my mods... Dannobre comes by and helps me, so Dan if your reading this... :rolleyes:
congrats! you'll love it :)

hey Nem if you need help feel free to email me...I would say call me but I"m going to South Africa this weekend and won't be back till late June...so email is going to be best (I'll try to check it every other day...won't be like in the states where I check it every other hour :D)

-J

just got about 150 pie boxes in!!! so nows the time to get a Svideo Kit..
Once ihave coverd all the Rx8club members i wil have to raise the cost of the PIE box..
Do you have any left?
How much for the complete kit plus shipping to 67502?
Thanks,
Al
PS: I tried sending you a PM but "you've exceeded your stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space".

Do you have any left?
How much for the complete kit plus shipping to 67502?
Thanks,
Al
PS: I tried sending you a PM but "you've exceeded your stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space".

haha typical Thew...here try his email

info@mazdaparts.com

I was wondering if it was feasible to set up a camera forward looking that was eiether set up with light amplification or perhaps from the thermal imaging sensor that is used on certain Cadillacs.

I was wondering if it was feasible to set up a camera forward looking that was eiether set up with light amplification or perhaps from the thermal imaging sensor that is used on certain Cadillacs.

I spoke to Flyboyindy earlier this week and he install a forward facing camera an is hooking up a camcorder to it on one of the outputs so he can record rides...

as for 'thermal imaging' it is all camera based technology...so if you want to get a high powered infrared cam that you can do decent night viewing with that is definitely possible...the only problem is most of the infrared cams out there only pic up 15-20 ahead...you'd have to get a very high powered one ($$$$$) to use it successfully...

you could you with a true heat sensing cam but you wouldn't have defined images and only objects giving off heat would be picked up (stop lights, animals, humans, cars, buildings...not much heat radidiation from trees, etc.)

You know it's too bad there's no way to make this install "ultra clean" by having the navigation joystick work with the other hardware.

For example...after switching to a DVD player, pushing the joystick to the right would cause the video to fast forward. And the "menu" button bringing up the DVD's main menu.

Oh well. One can dream... :fruit:

You know it's too bad there's no way to make this install "ultra clean" by having the navigation joystick work with the other hardware.

For example...after switching to a DVD player, pushing the joystick to the right would cause the video to fast forward. And the "menu" button bringing up the DVD's main menu.

Oh well. One can dream... :fruit:

I've actually been toying with this idea... except to remove the pointer completely and install a small trackball in its place. I've got the nav system, and to spend ~150 (or whatever it costs) for a map that is not as up to date as those available for the pc makes me balk a little. If you could install a track ball there and fabricate a couple of buttons for where the nav buttons are it probably would work for a carputer... none of the limitations of the stock nav system plus DVD, MP3, internet, etc... too bad I'm no good at fabricating and my desires often outpace my budget

You know it's too bad there's no way to make this install "ultra clean" by having the navigation joystick work with the other hardware.

For example...after switching to a DVD player, pushing the joystick to the right would cause the video to fast forward. And the "menu" button bringing up the DVD's main menu.

Oh well. One can dream... :fruit:

all you people do is drive me crazy I keep starting project after project...f-in a ;)

ok this was thought of before and EASY to do...and this was my plan

1. Buy the Navigation remote control and then mount it in a holster so the passenger and you can access. Yes there is an infrared remote control, Thew at Mazdaparts owns one, it is meant for the UK Mazda 6 and uses the IR receiver built into the nav unit (the little shiny piece to the right of the screen).

2.Disconnect the current Nav controls and retrofit the dvd/xbox/carpc buttons/keys to activate using the depression of the nav keys. This would mean the Nav current nav controller would not work with the nav...the resason is you won't be screwing with the nav while activating the other device, just use the IR remote. The hard part will be the joystick...fortunately there is no lighting in the joystick so you could easily have it activate the other functions you desire.

3. While retrofiting maintain the power for the illumination of the buttons at night...or sand off the mask and create a new one with FF and RWD symbols etc.


OR

If you can figure out how the Nav control sends signals you could make a bus controller that converts those signals into a dvd remote/etc....but really this way is a big pain in the rear end...although most likely we'll find out it is a serial connection and a PC could run it :)

------
Let me remind everyone that the video input switching can be done by programming a Homelink button since the remote for the nav switcher is RF based and so is Homelink. :) :)

What I really meant was...being able to use the nav controls/joystick on both the nav system AS WELL as the other hardware. When switching to the DVD hardware...the joystick and controls become functional with that hardware...and then when switching back to the nav screen, it works just fine with the nav. Basically there would be no need for a remote control.

possible but a pain in the hoohah

I need to ask a novice question - Isnt there a unit that you can purchase that has the ability to perform NAV duties and also plays DVD's in it - and can tie into the current display we have. AND maybe even have an input method for additional equipment if wanted?

so essentiall abandon your Nav dvd unit...for a computer based nav system

get a Carpc, still need the nav switcher as well...you can get the light version:

Carpc: http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=2510000-1128839313

Video on Nav light (my DIY here still applies): http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=2500000-1128838719

Anyone have this carpc installed yet?

so do you have to buy a separate DVD player or do u put the DVD movie directly into the stock nav dvd?

seperate DVD player...the stock nav has no ability to play video dvds

I am personally using an modded xbox for movies/games/music/musicvideos/etc.

Flyboyindy is using a DVD changer and loves it

You can get a cheap in car dvd player or just buy a portable player the kind you take on a plane and hookup the video out that is how I used to do it before the xbox

if you get the portable dvd player. Make sure you get the one with A/V in.
That way you can plug in your X-box, psp etc......

I completed my install a few days ago and I wanted to mention that using quick connectors was just a bad idea, period. The wires move around and jiggle so often inside those things and are extremely sensitive to vibration. And that's after crimping each one half a dozen times and using electrical tape to secure them. I'm driving over train tracks or a bumpy road, and next thing I know, my screen is showing everything in red. :uhh:

Yesterday I pulled out all those damn quick connects and vampire taps I used, and soldered all the wires together. Haven't had any issues since.

If you're going to perform this install, a soldering iron is the only way to go, especially since you're working with video equipment.

what kind of quick connectors were you using?

I've used a few different kinds and the red cylinder screw type works great. A few others I've used have been a nightmare.

I have soldered these connections before but after moving it now 4 times (sub install/backup cam wiring/xbox install/etc.) I've stuck with that kind of quick connects plus they are reusable.

The key to these quick connects is leaving a decent amount of exposed wire when screwing the sides shut...that way the cylinder screw puts great pressure on the wire against the metal inside....and these connects work great with small wires.

Really the best thing to probably do is take a Cat5 cable, cut it apart and solder the wires to it...then take a cat5 connector and cut it apart and solder to the nav inputs...creating a plug and play solution.

These (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104016&cp=2032058.2032231.2032283&pg=2&page=3&parentPage=family) were the ones I attempted to use.

Guess I probably should have gone with something more like this (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103507&cp=2032058.2032231.2032283&pg=3&page=3&parentPage=family).

Anyway, for my application it doesn't matter that the connections are somewhat permanent, because I never plan on changing any of this around, but I could understand why some would want plugs to make future changes.

I have a question though...I noticed that after installing everything, it looks like the contrast or sharpness of the navigation display has slightly changed a little. Is this normal? The video quality I am getting from the DVD player looks crisp and great, but it seems like the old nav display (maps) is slightly different from what I remember. Could just be I'm imagining things...

You aren't totally imagining things...the video displayed is brighter and more vibrant than the NAV image...this excites the LCD much more causing the display to I will call it 'come alive'...it is not permanent as once you shut down the car for several minutes it will go back to normal during normal nav viewing.

You will find you want to adjust the contrast and brightness anyway on the display to fit the video and nav better...do this by holding the 'Voice' button down for several seconds...the rest is self explanatory.

So that people know it is the red connectors in this picture...if you can see they are reusable...the ends twist off then an exposed part of the wire is inserted in the holes on the ends...then the end is twisted back on securing the wire...it is simple works perfectly:

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33131 (attachment.php?attachmentid=33131)

I think I figured out what's going on with my nav screen's brightness/contrast/sharpness. It wasn't better than how it looked before, it was actually a little worse.

I used a combination of your DIY and some of bobclevenger's because he had one or two more detailed shots of the job and a couple more written details in his DIY to help me find the exact wires to cut. I decided to tap into the ACC power from behind the nav's 16 pin connector like bob suggested, instead of tapping into the center console power (so I didn't have to extend my cutting mess all the way to the center console). I'm guessing by tapping into that wire, the video switcher and DVD player are sucking away some of the power used to light up the screen. :uh:

That must be what the boo-boo is. Either today or tomorrow I have to fix the mess I made behind the 16 pin connector, and tap into the center console power like you had instructed.

Next time I guess I should stick to the script. :bowdown:

Lots of people have been asking me about this lately so bump.

I have been waiting for the plugnplay harness, but I think I'll just cut and solder. Should have my garage built in about two more weeks.

Hey Nem,

I remember talking about garages a while back...I'm excited to see yours. Do you still have my personal email?

I'm moving soon so I decided to leave this garage alone besides adding storage. I can't wait to see yours for inspiration. Lots of local Minnesota RX-8 club guys stop by now so hopefully with the new place it will be even better: grill out back, beer, and work on cars.

-Jason

there must be a firmware for the unit to make it able to play movies, at least VCDs.

14. Now is the time to tap the back up cam wire and connect it to the ground that activates it on the nav box when you put the car in reverse. If you do not intend to use a backup camera anytime soon you might as well hookup this cable since it only takes a minute and then you don’t have to take apart everything to access it. Using the diagram of the connector (it is the far right connector) where the arrow points, gain access to that wire. Use a 2 ft long twisty style insulated 18 or 20 gauge wire to insert in the tap. Place the backup cam wire in the pass through of the tap and use a combination of the two pliers to close the tap and click it shut bridging the connection. Now run this wire into the trunk and tape it to the box until you are going to connect it to the reverse cam wire to activate the cam during reverse, when you get a camera that is.

So I'm attempting to get my backup camera up and running and followed this direction.

I have encountered a problem while doing this though, I am grounding to the red and yellow wire in the harness as shown. But when I put the car into reverse the image becomes full of horizontal gray lines.

When I take it out of reverse the picture on the camera stays on with no interference.

What am I doing wrong here? Should I draw be pulling the power from the connection instead of the ground?

Any help here is much appreciated as it's the last step before I button this bastard up and enjoy the new system :banghead:

A little late reply here.
Maby I missed something earlyer up, but how do I get lets say an X-Box/PC to play audio on all speakers if i mount this NAV splitter? Im newb to this, but I really want this mod for my car :) Is there any plug & play model out now?

A little late reply here.
Maby I missed something earlyer up, but how do I get lets say an X-Box/PC to play audio on all speakers if i mount this NAV splitter? Im newb to this, but I really want this mod for my car :) Is there any plug & play model out now?

Yes, there are a couple of plug and play options. The one I have plugs in behind the radio and you push the cd button twice to get to the input (EX 1). Another option is called audiolink and that has a ipod jack and headphone jack.

I know Im going to get flamed for this, but BUMP to a really usefull thread so that it doesnt go into archives and I can do this next month.