went to the dealer to get my service done.. I also got them to change the diff and transmittion oil while they were at it...

I supplied 2 x Redline MT90 and 2 x redline 75w90 diff oil..
The stuipid idiots manage to put 1 x MT90 and 1 x 75w90 into the diff and
1 x MT90 and 1 x 75w90 into the transmittion how stupid is that....how can you mix the 2 different oils up?? read the bloody label

Is this going to be a problem? im getting the fluids drained and replaced in 3 days time...

I called my dealership and they want to charge $200 to do this...

Sorry if I overlooked this info but can someone tell me again what the bolt sizes are for the fill and drain plugs?

I'm guessing I have to buy a few new sockets.

ransmission drain plug (24mm)
transmission fill plug (24mm)
differential drain plug (24mm)
differential fill plug (23mm)

Per The DIY
I Just did these. If you don't have a 24MM on hand, you can use a 15/16.... carefully.

Exactly how much diff & trans fluid do I need to buy to do the change out? I've looked through my owner's manual and quite a few pages on here. I'm trying to decide if I should order 2 bottles of each of the Redline or 3 of each incase 2 quarts each doesn't quite fill it up.

Exactly how much diff & trans fluid do I need to buy.....

capacities from 2004 Service Manual:
MT: 1.85 US quarts
Differential: 1.3-1.4 US quarts

Two bottles of each will be enough. If car is level, add each fluid until it starts flowing out the filler hole.

Exactly how much diff & trans fluid do I need to buy to do the change out? I've looked through my owner's manual and quite a few pages on here. I'm trying to decide if I should order 2 bottles of each of the Redline or 3 of each incase 2 quarts each doesn't quite fill it up.

the capacities are in the manual and what rx8cited posted is correct.


I ordered 3qts for tranny and 2qts for diff... Ordering 3qts for tranny came in quite handy because I had some spillage from using a cheap ass siphon. Make sure you have a decent siphon tool to use for refilling. Also REMOVE FILL PLUG FIRST to be certain you can get fluid back in once drained.

I took a look at the rear diff in preparation for oil change. It seems that the filler hole for the rear diff is really tight. How would you go about in filling the oil? I was thinking to use a turkey baster as I did with my previous cars. But I don't think it will work for this car. Grr....

Also how do you get underneath it when the car is warmed up? The muffler is right there!

the local autoparts store said they have some type of pump for $8 that does it.

the local autoparts store said they have some type of pump for $8 that does it.
Yea just don't get the cheap $5 one that has like a line with w squeeze ball to create vacuum... problem with the cheap on is the oil is so heavy, that the siphon doesn't create enough vacuum to pull the thick oil through. Get one that just attaches to your oil bottle like a soap dispenser and use some small clear tubing to feed it to your filler hole. This worked great for me. There may be better ones out there.

This (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/2495/249576_300.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.drillspot.com/products/354405/Plews_Edelmann_55001_QT_Lubrimat_Fluid_Pump&usg=__84EjvO1Ls4wVY7_m-mPboMlip8Y=&h=300&w=300&sz=55&hl=en&start=49&um=1&tbnid=yOHIEg1Vcl9--M:&tbnh=116&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcar%2Bfluid%2Bpump%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3 Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3D8uQ%26sa%3DN%26start%3D42%26um% 3D1) is probably what most folks will find locally for cheap. Stay away from the squeeze ball turkey baster style.

This (http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/5745/toolsot2.jpg) is the style pump I used. Stick the tube in the bottle, pull up on the plunger to suck fluid in, stick the tube in the fill hole, push plunger to force out fluid.

If you're adding AMSOIL, they have a hand pump for $11:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx

I used it for trans and diff, and it worked great.

This (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/2495/249576_300.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.drillspot.com/products/354405/Plews_Edelmann_55001_QT_Lubrimat_Fluid_Pump&usg=__84EjvO1Ls4wVY7_m-mPboMlip8Y=&h=300&w=300&sz=55&hl=en&start=49&um=1&tbnid=yOHIEg1Vcl9--M:&tbnh=116&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcar%2Bfluid%2Bpump%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3 Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3D8uQ%26sa%3DN%26start%3D42%26um% 3D1) is probably what most folks will find locally for cheap. Stay away from the squeeze ball turkey baster style.

This (http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/5745/toolsot2.jpg) is the style pump I used. Stick the tube in the bottle, pull up on the plunger to suck fluid in, stick the tube in the fill hole, push plunger to force out fluid.

Yea the first one is exactly like the one I used. It's the cheapest one that WORKS.

Sounds like this pump might do the trick.

http://www.princessauto.com/engines/fuel-lubricants/manual/8006283-manual-fluid-transfer-pump?keyword=pump

Since I will be using the same pump for the transmission and the differential - any tips for cleaning out the pumps? Is cross contamination a concern?

Very carefully! Much better to pick up a 24mm hex socket; and you may need a short (18") breaker bar as well.

Much better to drain the fluids (vs. siphon pump) and use an inexpensive quart jug pump, as pictured early on in this thread, or the Amsoil one above.

Remember to loosen the upper filler plug before you drain your fluids, just in case. You don't want to drain your fluid only to discover you can't then get the filler plug out!

Don't worry about [Redline] MT90 - 75w90 hand pump "cross contamination." There won't be enough to have any impact.

ps: although I had spare washers, my existing, at 20k miles, were AOK so I just reused them. I didn't bother with thread grease either - a good idea in general, but not absolutely necessary (as it is with sparkplugs).

ransmission drain plug (24mm)
transmission fill plug (24mm)
differential drain plug (24mm)
differential fill plug (23mm)

Per The DIY
I Just did these. If you don't have a 24MM on hand, you can use a 15/16.... carefully.

I changed to redline earlier today. My garage floor is level so all i did was jack up the driver side and fill and then lowered it back down flat and let the excess run out. However i spilled some of the fluid and i pump in the rest and when i lowered it i believe i saw a few small drips come out of it (so i guess i just barely had enough after spilling). The rear dif was super easy and had enough fluid that it was coming out as i filled it while it was jacked up and tilted. I can really feel the difference however i still have pretty bad gear noise which makes me think that maybe im still a little low on the trans fluid. I ordered one more quart of MT-90 just to top off the transmission in case it is a little low. My question is, will i be ok running my car for a week with only about 1.6-1.7 quarts in the tranny? (honestly i could just be real paranoid and the tranny may be full but i just want to make sure).

I changed to redline earlier today. My garage floor is level so all i did was jack up the driver side and fill and then lowered it back down flat and let the excess run out. However i spilled some of the fluid and i pump in the rest and when i lowered it i believe i saw a few small drips come out of it (so i guess i just barely had enough after spilling). The rear dif was super easy and had enough fluid that it was coming out as i filled it while it was jacked up and tilted. I can really feel the difference however i still have pretty bad gear noise which makes me think that maybe im still a little low on the trans fluid. I ordered one more quart of MT-90 just to top off the transmission in case it is a little low. My question is, will i be ok running my car for a week with only about 1.6-1.7 quarts in the tranny? (honestly i could just be real paranoid and the tranny may be full but i just want to make sure).

Both procedures are identical for Trans and Diff oil replacement, you obviously Drain all fluids first, don't forget to also remove filler pugs while draining, then put in Cleaned magnetic drain plugs.

It is important to fill when car is as LEVEL as possible, you add enough oil so that it starts to overfill and slowly run out of the filler hole, then THAT IS ALL you put in.

Put the filler plug in, and clean up...recheck all 4 plugs are tightened.

BTW: If oil is running out when car is on a flat and level surface then both casings are FULL, you can't really overfill...if it is not slightly running out then you need more oil, best to fill and check when oil has cooled down or cold.

I know my dif was full because i clearly saw it coming out but with my trans i could see like two slight drips coming from the bottom so i didnt physically see any coming out of the hole and i maybe spilled a quarter of a quart before adding it so its possible im slightly low and will add some more in a week when another quart comes in so i can make sure its full and i think ill add .1 quarts more through the shifter after filling it up all the way as i think that would cure my trans noise and .1 more really couldnt hurt anything.

Subscribed as I'm getting close to doing this.

Does the gear noise happen everytime you shift? And for every gear? I know some of us have a little grinding problem going into 2nd gear when the engine is cold, which is kinda one of those things you have to deal with.

I had some grinding problems shifting to 3rd or 4th gear when I was using royal p. I switched to redline and the noise disappeared. :-)

I had AMSOIL in at my 30K servicing recently. Wow - what a big difference. The car drivetrain/transmission is so much smoother and quieter now. It is like having a different car.

From a reputable mechanic, I got charged labor $35.70 for the trans and $23.80 for the diff and $3.44 for 4 crush washers. So don't let a stealership charge you $200 bucks if you provide the fluids.

My trans is silent at speed and shifts amazing now that i have switched to redline but i still have that noise at idle when you let the car idle in neutral and it goes away when you push the clutch in. (basically its just the normal trans gear sound but its on the loud side right now most likely because my trans is a lil low on fluid).

Exactly how much diff & trans fluid do I need to buy to do the change out? I've looked through my owner's manual and quite a few pages on here. I'm trying to decide if I should order 2 bottles of each of the Redline or 3 of each incase 2 quarts each doesn't quite fill it up.

Just get 2 for the diff and 3 for the tranny.

If you're adding AMSOIL, they have a hand pump for $11:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx

I used it for trans and diff, and it worked great.

I bought pump at the part store that was made for a one gallon jug that looked the same as that. Just another option if someone doesn't want to order online.

Huh?

Manual Transmission capacity = 1.8 US Qt (1.75L)

Differential capacity = 1.4 US Qt (1.3L)

You don't need 3 quarts for the tranny.

The Quart pump is readily available at Pep Boys and Bass Pro shop (the latter the same one as used for outboard motor gear oil). Autozone only has the gallon pump.

Just get 2 for the diff and 3 for the tranny.


I bought pump at the part store that was made for a one gallon jug that looked the same as that. Just another option if someone doesn't want to order online.

I know the capacity on the tranny but each time I have done it the two quarts barely filled it. Better to be safe than sorry. Especially if you are ordering your fluid online.

I know the capacity on the tranny but each time I have done it the two quarts barely filled it. Better to be safe than sorry. Especially if you are ordering your fluid online.

Yea, i ordered online and i spilled some so my tranny is running a lil on the low side until i get some more in so i would recommend getting 3 quarts for the tranny. This time when i add it im going to do it through the shifter. So much easier IMO

Its pretty easy for me since we have a pit at work. Things are so much more simple when you can stand under your car.

so the second time around i added the fluid by removing the shifter and it was so much easier. Literally took like 5 mins to get the shifter out.

Just wondering can you get away with just using a 24mm socket? the website says the drain plug is 23mm.

I don't know, but I'd use an adjustable wrench before I used the wrong size socket.

just wondering can you get away with just using a 24mm socket? The website says the drain plug is 23mm.

don't do it.

not sure whether its a UK vs US thing but ive got a friend whos a mazda mech and he said the washers are just generic washers and they dont even stock new ones jus reuse old.

i will be attempting tranny an diff this weekend, i mite do a more detailed how to...
ive got a 500cc oil pump, like a bicycle pump thing fyi

Just wondering can you get away with just using a 24mm socket? the website says the drain plug is 23mm.

Might be abke to get away with it if the plug is not tight, but chances are you will just round off the plug and make far more work in the long run. Better to buy a 23mm socket now then to buy a tool to remove a rounded plug, a new plug and then the 23mm socket.

not sure whether its a UK vs US thing but ive got a friend whos a mazda mech and he said the washers are just generic washers and they dont even stock new ones jus reuse old.

i will be attempting tranny an diff this weekend, i mite do a more detailed how to...
ive got a 500cc oil pump, like a bicycle pump thing fyi

You can reuse the washers, just make sure they look good when you take the plug off.

I had spare washers, but my originals looked so good (at only 20k miles) that I just reused them.

i just changed my tranny oil, 2 quarts just about filled it and i mean JUST! lol

my main reason for this is that im gettin a metallic grinding noise coming from the tranny at 8.5k rpm +. it sounds horrible, and if anything it is now a little louder now i have changed oil. gear changes are smoother but im still getting the grinding noise.

im worried and frustrated. anyone know what this could be?

thanks

hey jim what brand of oils are you using???? i had a similar problem when i was using royal purple oils, but all the grinding noises went away after i switch to redline products. :):)

redline, as far as i no i drained stock oil out. its like wen u miss reverse but feels like its in gear, let the clutch out and it grinds, that kinda sound

The manual says 1.8 quarts to fill the trans.

Anyone every put 2 in through the shifter hole?

The manual says 1.8 quarts to fill the trans.

Anyone every put 2 in through the shifter hole?

I am not a fan of filling up your trans casing through the shifter hole, too much oil and you could get seal leaks from the rear extension housing seal or the input shaft seal in the front., and you don't want too little oil either.

Just make sure your car is level and top up through the filler plug hole until it starts to run or dribble out, that is the method used by Mazda and the correct one.

I am not a fan of filling up your trans casing through the shifter hole, too much oil and you could get seal leaks from the rear extension housing seal or the input shaft seal in the front., and you don't want too little oil either.

Just make sure your car is level and top up through the filler plug hole until it starts to run or dribble out, that is the method used by Mazda and the correct one.

A variation that I use is leaving the top transmission plug out and filling through the shifter.

Not much room to fill the fluid through the top hole on the side of the transmission that is why I improvised that way.

The service departments my car has gone to seem to be technically challenged when it comes to putting the interior back together. I have yet to have it put back together the same way it went in. That may be why they do not fill it this way. Or they could have a pump that allows easier filling. :dunno: :)

put it through the shifter hole..

2 qts.. b&g for the win..

then while in neutral. spin the driveshaft forwards and backwards several times.

then pull the upper fill hole. let it drain for an hour.

done.

beers :beer:

What oil are you guys using that can be bought locally? What brand is used from the factory?

What oil are you guys using that can be bought locally? What brand is used from the factory?

I have tried a few and so far like the Amsoil Severe Gear 75W110 the best.

There should be a dealer located near you. Sometimes retail stores sell Amsoil but are not technically supposed to. I have been a dealer before but it is somewhat of a demanding job for doing it part time. :dunno:

Not sure what the stock gear lube is but I know that it is not synthetic for the early models, have not heard on the newer 8s.

I have had it done before at the dealer and in 98k and (knocks on wood) my gear box and diff had been trouble free.

Good deal?

http://www.amazon.com/Line-50304-Manual-Transmission-Gear/dp/B000CPCBEQ/ref=sr_1_1?tag=slickdeals&ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1251900412&sr=8-1

I read through the '09 service highlights and the forum to try and find any differences for doing this on an '09. Looks like we use the same GL-4 SAE75W-90 Tranny oil (will use Redline MT-90)
The Rear Diff lists 3 different ones, all API GL-5: Either SAE 90, SAE 80W-90, OR SAE 75W-90 (with note that this is not available from Mazda).
Did the '04-'08 list the same for the rear diff and everyone chose SAE 75W-90 as the one to use (planning on using RedLine 75W90) or did '04-'08 only list one?

Probably do mine in a month or so around 1500-2000 miles. Anyone do this yet on an '09? Same procedure, socket sizes, torque specs? I did see the tranny oil went up to 2.06 quarts, but rear diff stayed at 1.4. Any other changes? Couldn't find the washers at Rosenthall, they state for '04-'08 only. Will check my dealer but wanted any first hand knowledge of the members here first.
Thanks.

^ my '05 manual does list the same three types of differential oil (I use Redline 75w-90)

API Service GL-5 (SAE 90)
API Service GL-5 (SAE 80W-90)
API Service GL-5 (SAE 75W-90)*

* Not available from Mazda

You won't need new washers at your low mileage (I reused at 20k even tho' I had new).

I read through the '09 service highlights and the forum to try and find any differences for doing this on an '09. Looks like we use the same GL-4 SAE75W-90 Tranny oil (will use Redline MT-90)
The Rear Diff lists 3 different ones, all API GL-5: Either SAE 90, SAE 80W-90, OR SAE 75W-90 (with note that this is not available from Mazda).
Did the '04-'08 list the same for the rear diff and everyone chose SAE 75W-90 as the one to use (planning on using RedLine 75W90) or did '04-'08 only list one?

Probably do mine in a month or so around 1500-2000 miles. Anyone do this yet on an '09? Same procedure, socket sizes, torque specs? I did see the tranny oil went up to 2.06 quarts, but rear diff stayed at 1.4. Any other changes? Couldn't find the washers at Rosenthall, they state for '04-'08 only. Will check my dealer but wanted any first hand knowledge of the members here first.
Thanks.

Yep, you have it correct..
I use Redline MT90 trans, and GL-5 Rear 75W90..done over
k (Miles).. all is well.

Great DIY this helped me a lot, many thanks.

just went on finishlineperformance.com and want to order redline fluids and all possible drain and fill washers i might need. the transmission drain plug and fill plug washer's are the same part number but the differential plug washer is listed as just a diff drain plug washer and not also as a fill plug washer. if they're the same, wouldn't they be listed in the description as used for both? if so, i'll order 2.

^ Yes, the tranny drain/fill washers are the same and one part number and the diff'l drain/fill are the same but another part number. Just buy two of each.

Tommy at Performanceline is very good, but the website doesn't necessarily list every number. I've actually had him (or the webmaster) add some part numbers [for the Mazda6] so I could subsequently order.

/\ WRONG...;)

Series 1 Transmission are the same Y602-17-361 Fill and Drain Washer

Differential (one is made from Copper)
9956-21-800 Copper Filler Washer
9956-41-800

Series II Transmission is different (same as diff drain washer)...
9956-41-800 Fill and Drain.

/\ WRONG...;)

Series 1 Transmission are the same Y602-17-361 Fill and Drain Washer

Differential (one is made from Copper)
9956-21-800 Copper Filler Washer
9956-41-800

Series II Transmission is different (same as diff drain washer)...
9956-41-800 Fill and Drain.

OK then, how do i know if my trans is series 1 or 2? do i order an extra diff washer or an extra trans washer? i have a 2004 MT.

You have a Series I RX-8, Series II started from MY 09, July 08 production.

Well, here in the States the Tranny/Diff'l washers are different for a Series I (2008 and prior). I'll verify the part numbers later today (if I can remember to do so) since I have both "in stock."

I said the S1 Tranny and Diff washers ARE Different...

All the Diff Washers are the same between Series 1 (04-08) and Series 2 (09~)..

The DIFF FILLER Plug Washer is Originally Copper (9956-21-800) , not Aluminium, But some use the Aluminium one.

Series 1 Transmission are the same 2 X Y601-17-361 Fill and Drain Washer

Differential (one is made from Copper)
1 X 9956-21-800 Copper Filler Washer
1 X 9956-41-800 Aluminium Drain Washer

Series II (MY 09~)Transmission (MX-5 Design) is different (same as diff drain washer)...
2 X 9956-41-800 Fill and Drain.

I did say Y602 for S1 Tranny, sorry, it is Y601-17-361 (Qty 2, Fill and Drain)

another great DIY, thankyou everyone for all the usefull tips. hope to do the trans soon or maybe both.

I'm a little unsure about the mixing of the factory fluids and aftermarket synthetic fluids (i.e. Redline). While working in the heavy truck parts industry, every transmission or differential carrier assembly that I sell (whether it be new or reconditioned) comes with a few tags warning not to mix even small amounts of synthetic and conventional oils as it creates a sludge-esque concoction that resembles watery yet lumpy jelly. Odd, I know, but I've seen the effects of mixing the two lubricants together and when customers do such, warranties are void and defunct (which sucks-- front differentials are around $3,000, rear differentials around $1,900, and transmissions nearly $4,000!).

That being said, I'm wary of changing my fluids. I'm interested and would love to do it as I'm sure it's never been done (40k). Notice and oddities in changing fluids? Then again, is the factory filled fluid even conventional?

Unfortunately, I have a terrible place for performing most of my own work. No pavement and it's hard to find level ground. Otherwise, I'd be crawling around to do the fluid swap. What should I expect to be paying for a transmission/differential fluid change (just a loose ballpark), provided I supply my own oil?

I agree that mixing synthetic fluids isn't the greatest idea but I doubt you're going to see any immediate effects. That being said, if you have a fluid you're pretty set on I would suggest doing the change and then after a few thousand miles doing a drain and fill again.

Doing a transmission and diff change on a manual is very simple, requires basic hand tools and about a hour to do. The diff was harder IMO than the trans because every time I use a hand pump I some how manage to make a total mess. The trans I just fill through the shifter and it's cake.

BHR has done some testing with the Eneos GL-5 which can be used in both the transmission and diff with a lot of success. Despite it being an exotic lubricant we're expecting to get about 30,000 miles on average between changes. Shifts are smooth and no grinding issues.

Don't bother buying crush washers. Just reuse. It's going sick overboard replacing them.

Get a handpump and pump in the new fluid. It's easy as pie. Just get the car up on all 4's and make sure it's level for the drain & fill. Drill 'ti it spills. Don't overfill.

Redline fluids are great. Mobile One is good too.

I have an '05 rx8 and dealer gave me 9956-41-800 to use on my tranny drain/fill. Can I use these washers or do I really need the Y601-17-361 washers?

^ part numbers change all the time, often just because they're from a different vendor, with no design changes. If the dealer ok'd them they should be fine.

I bought the washers from the dealer.

When I bought mine, they had to be ordered, but came within two days.

I've heard of people resuing them also, but is it really worth taking a chance doing that? Not for me. The cost of the lube, my labor, and potential damage caused by leaks is just not worth risking a couple of buck.

Don't rush to do it this weekend if you cannot get all the right parts and don't have the right tools ;).

rx8cited

I went to the dealer today. the price of the crush washer for the tranny plug is $14!!! I'm not sure whether I got it right or not. what should I ask for that washer.
any part no.?

Thx

Well my 8 has 59,000 miles and we got it with 26,000 and im willing to bet the trans and diff fluid has never been changed.... so with that said its going to be done soon. anyone use anything like Royal Purple or Lucus fluids??? or is that not a good idea?

i used royal purple 75w-90 on both trans and diff. feels great so far.

i used royal purple 75w-90 on both trans and diff. feels great so far.

Thanks! Ive been using Lucus motor oils since as long ago as i can remember and ive always seen good results using them. obviously ive been using them in piston motors.... mainly ford. not so sure about what fluids to use in the rotary engine

Redline > RP

im gunna go with Redline i was just curious what everyone else was using

Just changed to MT90. My trans was feeling notchy before, on stock fluids... after a short test-drive not sure I like the changes. I used to be able to slip into 1st while coasting down to a stop sign, so that I'm ready to take off again, and with the new fluid immediately noticed that I'm locked out of 1st until a much lower speed. Everything else feels roughly the same. We'll see how things are in a few days after a few heat cycles... maybe I just didn't get it warm enough?

I bought 05 RX-8 a few weeks ago.
after reading though the DIY section, I decided to do my transmission and differential fluid change for my first time. (My Previous Car (http://web.me.com/tacti/Solara/) was Toyota Solara, and even though I did a quite extensive work on her, most mechanical work was done at a shop)

Thanks to the Great DIY, it made the fluid change very easy!
I even felt it was easier than oil change.

I lifted the car at rear differential, and put jack stand.
Since I could read the transmission without jacking up the front, I decided to just go with it and drained both transmission and differential fluid.

then run a tube with funnel to both fill plug, and then lower the car.
took forever for the fluid to go down the funnel, but once I saw the fluid come out from fill plug, I lift the car just a bit and put the plug back in by hand.
then lift higher so that i can have enough space to use torque wrench.

it took about an hour and half but it was mostly waiting for the fluid to e filled.

After it was done, I went out for a drive and had no problem.
felt a little smoother, but I'm not good enough to be able to tell the difference for sure.
(Just start driving stick shift and still learning.)

again, thanks for a great DIY!!

I was changing my trans oil with MT-90 and according to the manual says 1.8 qrt but after puting 2 it never came out the fill. It looks like almost 3 qrt came out of the tranny, has anybody encounter this?

Dumb question but, was the car level when you did it? Or did you have it jacked up on the left side only?

I was changing my trans oil with MT-90 and according to the manual says 1.8 qrt but after puting 2 it never came out the fill. It looks like almost 3 qrt came out of the tranny, has anybody encounter this?

There is No way 3 Quarts is Normal...

Your car MUST be Level (flat) when filling to overflow.

You have put in too much, get your car level and open filler hole and let it drain out till an almost stop or drip.ASAP.

im about to do my trans/diff fluid change in a few days just waiting for my amsoil to come in. just wondering how crucial it is to buy new drain/fill plug washers. the only place i can find them is the mazda dealer but they charge like 5 buck each. thats 20 bucks worth of washers... seems insane. does anyone have a better source for these? ive tried looking around online but no one has'em. any help?

Just reuse the one that comes off if you have one on there in the first place, some don't. I think some people look into it too much. I've never replaced a drain nut/washer ever in my vehicles, not a single issue.

im about to do my trans/diff fluid change in a few days just waiting for my amsoil to come in. just wondering how crucial it is to buy new drain/fill plug washers. the only place i can find them is the mazda dealer but they charge like 5 buck each. thats 20 bucks worth of washers... seems insane. does anyone have a better source for these? ive tried looking around online but no one has'em. any help?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=273

Good DIY. Thanks. I reused the washers. They looked good. The pump worked well, but I dripped some. That stuff tastes funny. Everything's harder if you don't have much clearance. :/

^ I reused my washers at ~20k miles as well, even tho' I had spares. They looked fine and I was too lazy to get up from my nice nap under the vehicle. ;)

The 1 qt hand pump does take awhile but not too bad. Four leveled outboard jackstands provide enough clearance even when using a breaker bar on the nuts. I didn't bother to taste the Redline, so will take your word for it. :)

/\ lol...

Gonna try this diy on next paycheck. car almost at 60k mi and have no clue when the last of the maintence has been done.
Maybe this will fix my 3rd to second down shift and make it easier to shift.
at least this shoudl be an easy change for me as i work security for a dealership so all i have to do is get one of the janitors to let me in to use a lift


oil change and spark plugs done

spark plug wires, ignition coils

trans and diff fluids

coolant replacement.

damn u 60k mark

Anyone have any experience with Castrol SYNTEC Full Synthetic Gear Oil, API GL-5 and MT-1, SAE 75W-90 formula ? I wanna change out the fluid of the tranny and dunno if this will do since I got like 5 bottles as a gift.

I did this change today, and while I can notice the difference between the old and new (I don't think the old had ever been changed after 71k miles), there's a new error in that the electrical in my car won't shut off, even if I take the key out of the ignition. I wonder if this has something to do with the new oil, since this happened immediately after I changed it. I didn't fill it up to the point of overflowing since I filled it through the shifter hole, so maybe it's related to that. Anyone ever had this problem?

Unless you tried to fill your transmission through your ignition switch, this is not a related issue. I would start my diagnosis at the ignition switch.

Unless you tried to fill your transmission through your ignition switch, this is not a related issue. I would start my diagnosis at the ignition switch.

This made me laugh

Me too..lol

Ash, i posted in the other thread about transmission fluids, but do you know if you can fill the tranny on the S2 via the shifter hole like you could with the S1? If not, mind telling me why just so I have some knowledge for the future.

I can't be sure, I can't see 'why not', but I am not a fan at all of filling tranny oil through shifter.

I do not like bringing/pouring ANY oils inside my cabin, let alone removing boots , etc, etc.

Unnecessary hassle to me,

I hoist my car up on 4 Jack stands, so it is about 8 inches off the concrete level floor, and drain fluids (when hot) and fill though the "filler plug" until it starts to drip out...small hand pump.

This IS the correct procedure. :)

Yea i know, i only have 2 stands so i didn't want to deal with the hassle of up down up down up down to level and drain. Maybe i can just use the scissor jack to lift up the driver side a bit and get a good reach. I guess we will find out.

Btw, how are you with jack standing up the front of the car? I am always nervous because the hats of the jack stands put a little pressure on the plastic around the lift frame. I have some rubber pads to pad between the hat and the frame but maybe i need to pad it a bit more

I have these exact ones

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-pads-for-jack-stand-95952.html?utm_term=95952&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase

Meh, filling through the shifter is far less hassle, less mess, etc.

I use 4 "pole" stands with my made to order high strength steel tube I had made and welded to the 4 stand tops, so I use them where the factory scissor jack goes, my stands have the same top on them like the OEM scissor jack...works well...only cost $30 to have 4 made and welded on.

Car must be level when filling...

Meh, filling through the shifter is far less hassle, less mess, etc.

This.

So much easier and less hassle than doing it by a pump unless you have spazzy, Parkinson diseased hands and worry about pouring oil all over the place; tip, use a funnel. Plus first time you ever do it, just remove the top plug to verify that it's full if oil comes out using the proper amount and you're fine. For the average car, you don't need more than 2 quarts.

OH, I do Diff and Trans at same time, engine oil if I want to also, all Tyres OFF if I want to (rotate), great for me, ...so no mess and NO smelly Tranny Oil inside car..YUK!..no chance of inside spill.

No Hassle to me and just as quick.

So how do you do your Diff, Remove your GAS TANK...lol ;)

Until I came here, I never heard of doing Tranny this way, my techs heard about it, but advised against it and naturally they don't do it because they have proper car hoists.

Each to their own..

We're talking about replacing the tran fluid, not the diff fluid.

Obviously doing it the gas tank way is far superior, obviously.


































































































































If you took that last line seriously you're beyond hope and sarcasm eludes you significantly.

Yeah if you are doing all that at the same time you might as well do the tranny from underneath.

knob ;)

So after doing all that you then Remover the Filler Plug to check that the level is OK??..

Who is the Spazzy?!!

knob ;)

So after doing all that you then Remover the Filler Plug to check that the level is OK??..

Who is the Spazzy?!!

*sigh*

I see you take things personally easily not to mention have reading issues

This.

So much easier and less hassle than doing it by a pump unless you have spazzy, Parkinson diseased hands and worry about pouring oil all over the place; tip, use a funnel. Plus first time you ever do it, just remove the top plug to verify that it's full if oil comes out using the proper amount and you're fine. For the average car, you don't need more than 2 quarts.

As I already stated, I suggested this only when doing so the first time to make sure the amount you put in is sufficient. After the first time knowing how much oil to place in, obviously you don't need to check it and just pour it in through the shifter opening and reinstall everything from that time on.

So how do you do your Diff, Remove your GAS TANK...lol ;)

Until I came here, I never heard of doing Tranny this way, my techs heard about it, but advised against it and naturally they don't do it because they have proper car hoists.

Each to their own..

Because we all know how good and smart techs are with particularly our 8's :rolleyes:

OH, I do Diff and Trans at same time, engine oil if I want to also, all Tyres OFF if I want to (rotate), great for me, ...so no mess and NO smelly Tranny Oil inside car..YUK!..no chance of inside spill.

No Hassle to me and just as quick.

There is no oil smell left that I've ever noticed changing my tranny oil thrice doing it this way. Whatever floats your boat.

ill try dumping it in thought the shifter next time i change damn smell in the cabin got me for a couple weeks and still on the shirt i changed the oil in(no matter how many times i washed it)

I chimed in on the other thread but also wanted to make it clear in this one. You cannot pour fluid into the hole on the S2. Tried today, ended up using the fill hole per standard instructions. Not sure the mechanical and architectural differences between the S1 and S2 trannys but if you try to pour the fluid through the shift hole it will not drain into the transmission.

Did yesterday on a series I. This thread was great. Things to note:

1: be absolutely certain that you have the crush washers before you fill the transmission. Because, if you find one in the bottom of the pan you drained the oil into, it is 99.8% likely to be the drain one, not the fill one.

2: the little ebay oil evacuator pump is not only outstanding for pumping oil out of the engine, it will do a very quick job of pumping MT-90 and 75w90 into the transmission and differential. It gets a little mad at pushing the 75w90 through the little tube, but will still empty a 1 quart bottle in about a minute. Even with what you lose to the tubes, you still have enough to fill the trans with a little bit left over.

3: car shifts dramatically easier with MT-90 over whatever the mazda dealer put in last year for the 60K service. down shift is dramatically improved, or I spontaneously got lots better at heel and toe.

/\ You will find that the MT-90 settles in and the "dramatic" feel/change is not so dramatic, you can even change it again with fresh MT-90 and is still the same.

Not an expert, But it is almost like once all the internal parts are coated with MT-90 the smooth or easy feel goes away??...don't get me wrong it is still very good.

Dunno how to explain it...but you will see after a few thousand miles..:)

So What would be the best Product to use in changing my transmission oil?
Im reading all different kinds, but I'm not sure what to use?
What would be the best?

Do you drive an auto or standard? MT-90 by Redline for standard transmission will be fine. I cant quite comment on auto trannies but I believe Redline D4 ATF is favored.

Do you drive an auto or standard? MT-90 by Redline for standard transmission will be fine. I cant quite comment on auto trannies but I believe Redline D4 ATF is favored.

I have a Standard, 06 so MT-90 would be good then? :rolleyes:

Given this thread is 15 pages long now, but if you had actually read through same you wouldn't be asking this question.

Yes, Redline MT90.

I have a Standard, 06 so MT-90 would be good then? :rolleyes:

Hi all. I am sure this has been answered somewhere in the 15 pages....
I changed my engine oil yesterday with good results, and I was planning to change the transmission oil as well (but god, there is so little space underneath the car when I have it on my jack stands and I am slightly claustrophobic). However, a quick check of the workshop manual says the 5-speed transmission needs 2.5 liters of oil, and BOTH drain plugs removed. The DIY here only indicates a single drain plug to remove. Also the fill plug has no washer, apparently. Do I have the odd one out here?

B.

You need close to two quart bottles of MT90 for the manual transmission (~1.9L).

There is an upper fill hole and a lower drain hole. What they may be advocating, which is a good idea, is to make sure you can remove the upper fill plug BEFORE you remove the lower and drain the oil. You don't want to be stranded without any tramsmission fluid.

Hi all. I am sure this has been answered somewhere in the 15 pages....
I changed my engine oil yesterday with good results, and I was planning to change the transmission oil as well (but god, there is so little space underneath the car when I have it on my jack stands and I am slightly claustrophobic). However, a quick check of the workshop manual says the 5-speed transmission needs 2.5 liters of oil, and BOTH drain plugs removed. The DIY here only indicates a single drain plug to remove. Also the fill plug has no washer, apparently. Do I have the odd one out here?

B.

Don't forget, that if you're pumping the fluid up into the tranny/differential with a plunger type pump, you may not be able to get the entire quart in from a quart bottle. The suction tube, in general, will not function very well when the bottle is nearly empty.

OK, I hit the 60k miles so I changed the transmission and differential oil yesterday. I used Royal Purple Max Gear.
But then, after changing it, I saw all the horror stories regarding RP (for some reason I didn't find those threads before selecting the oil to use). Was there ever a consensus on this? Is it RP just bad for the transmission? or was it just a batch or oil or a specific RX8 model?

If RP was the cause, I'll just change it again this weekend to redline. Does anybody know?

OK, I hit the 60k miles so I changed the transmission and differential oil yesterday. I used Royal Purple Max Gear.
But then, after changing it, I saw all the horror stories regarding RP (for some reason I didn't find those threads before selecting the oil to use). Was there ever a consensus on this? Is it RP just bad for the transmission? or was it just a batch or oil or a specific RX8 model?

If RP was the cause, I'll just change it again this weekend to redline. Does anybody know?

Based on what I've read on various car forums, Royal Purple Max Gear is not compatible with many different transmissions, not just the RX-8. Just go with either Red Line or Amsoil. Those two brands are the most popular among auto enthusiasts. I went with Amsoil for both of my transmission and differential fluids.

If you've read this thread more thoroughly, you'd at least avoid RP Max Gear.

There is never a true consensus on this board, but Royal Purple doesn't have many defenders left. I've never run it, but I was happy with Redline MTL/MT90 mixed. I developed a slight grind coming out of third after a while, so I just switched to Eneos. Seems great so far.

Any pics of were I put the tranny and diff fluids..? I'm a noob sorry guys.

there is a DIY for it. very easy to do. its on the driverside of the trany

Any pics of were I put the tranny and diff fluids..? I'm a noob sorry guys.

Seriously?

Go to the first post in this thread... most people would think to read that before asking questions....:eek:

I wonder where that DIY could be.............hmmmmmm

jo3killa and i did this on one balmy summers eve no probs

J your on to me... :suspect: :D:

google the pixs if you have too but there are two giant plugs ont the side of the trany you cant miss. top and bottom. you do the math. ;)

Any pics of were I put the tranny and diff fluids..? I'm a noob sorry guys.

These pics have been posted in this thread like a gazillion times, but, since those were not enough, here they are again :Peace: :

http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/

I have read the 1st post but I didint see the drain/fill plug :rollingla
I thought it said drain plug didnt see the slash lol...:Peace:

There are 2 plugs.

There are 2 plugs.

Yea I seen it thanks

I spilled/didn't get in about 5 ounces of the 2 qts of MT-90. So I have about 1.8 QTS in there. Is that OK Ihope? (I have an S2)


BTW, shifting is certainly no better than the stock fluid.

I tried searching this thread but cant find how long does it normally take to change out the oil from tranny and diff?

I tried searching this thread but cant find how long does it normally take to change out the oil from tranny and diff?

If you have all the proper tools (socket sizes, pump to pump oils to the case since it is hard to reach the fill plugs), maybe an hour-hour/half to do both. Honestly takes more time to jack up the car and throw it on stands than it does to crack the plugs open and drain.

ok thanks

^ the hand pumping of the fluids is what takes the most time.

^ the hand pumping of the fluids is what takes the most time.

At least for the Series I, it's much quicker and less messy, to pop out the shifter and fill from the transmission from the top.

Perhaps, but there's no alternative approach for the differential.

At least for the Series I, it's much quicker and less messy, to pop out the shifter and fill from the transmission from the top.

Well, did this yesterday with Bladecutter. Went pretty good other than the part where you try to find a shop that carries redline, or any rx8 compatible, tranny fluid. Ended up going with the Ford Dealer Fluid, See how it goes, got to read some more reviews on it. Rumor has it its good stuff though. Used Lucas diff fluid in the rear, any complaints about lucas fluid?

An easy upgrade to the process.

One of the electric extractor pumps, I got mine on ebay for about $40. I just swap the feed and suck lines and pump from the bottle to wherever it needs to go.

It is the one in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtUZHT99owo

I did the 8, and did my ford ranger yesterday. Very Very simple. I even used it to suck the rear dif oil out of the ranger.

Only thing is that it will foam the oil if air gets into the feed. Just give everything about 5 minutes to set, and the bubbles go away, then top off.

Makes an oil change on the 8 a piece of cake too.

So 3 qts mt90 and 2 qts 75w90 should be more than enough correct?

I don't have much time to read through all 16 pages right now but I think I made a mistake. I went and got 4 quarts of mobil 1 75w90. The RP was $19 each!! I think I shouldn't have gotten 4 of the same right? What I got will work for the diff? I should get something else for the trans? I'm doing my clutch Tuesday and decided this would be a logical and easy thing to do while I'm under there.

2 qts each transmission and diff'l (see your owner's manual for precise volumes).


So 3 qts mt90 and 2 qts 75w90 should be more than enough correct?

You can just return two qts of 75w90 in exchange for 2 qts of MT90 for the transmission.

I don't have much time to read through all 16 pages right now but I think I made a mistake. I went and got 4 quarts of mobil 1 75w90. The RP was $19 each!! I think I shouldn't have gotten 4 of the same right? What I got will work for the diff? I should get something else for the trans? I'm doing my clutch Tuesday and decided this would be a logical and easy thing to do while I'm under there.

Thank you Huey. Will I be ok sticking with the mobil1? I read through and noticed nobody mentioned that particular brand.

Im pretty sure the Mobil 1 is GL5, the recommended is GL4 for the tranny.

Before the BHR guys say it, Eneos GL5 works great in the trans. It is probably best to stick to Redline, Eneos, or OEM, as the tranny seems more sensitive to the specific formulation than to what specifications a fluid meets.

Sonuvabi$@"! Why does this have to be so freaking stupid. I'm so sick of all the specifics this damn machine needs. I love the car but really this is getting ridiculous. We didn't but $180,000 supercars. I'm not paying $19 per quart for a damn fluid.

I know what you mean, but that is just getting to be how it is with cars. Just look at all the extended drain coolants with incompatible formulations. I also had to run all over to find the "right" Dexron III for a T56. The RX8 is a particularly odd-duck, but it is just the direction cars are going.

Screw it. I'm going back to my 87 fiero. Quick, light, good on gas, reliable(ish) and I could probably just piss in the transmission and it'll be perfectly happy. (forget the catching on fire that fieros tend to do.)

The Fiero was a great vehicle with pinpoint handling and its ahead-of-its-time urethane skin, but similarly underpowered. ;)

btw: Redline fluids

Screw it. I'm going back to my 87 fiero. Quick, light, good on gas, reliable(ish) and I could probably just piss in the transmission and it'll be perfectly happy. (forget the catching on fire that fieros tend to do.)

The Fiero was a great vehicle with pinpoint handling and its ahead-of-its-time urethane skin, but similarly underpowered. ;)

btw: Redline fluids

Do I notice a post dripping in sarcasm?? Haha. Touché.

Ok forgive my ranting earlier. So now I just looked up redline stuff and they specify their stuff as GL5. I thought that was bad?!

Bugler, I'm holding a bottle of Redline MT-90 , it clearly states its AGL-4

Ok. The mt90 is gl4 but the 75w90 is gl5. Forgive my ignorance but is that ok then?

MT-90 is 75W90, Are you trying to confuse me too ? :) What brand of oil do you refer too

Redline diff oil on their site is 75w90 gl5. Checking their site for the Trans oil it's mt90 gl4. Ah!

Screw it. I did my clutch yesterday and a bunch leaked out so I had to put something in. Didn't have time to get redline so I just put in RP 75w90 and it seems to be ok. I'll change out the diff oil next week. I too used one of those marine oil hand pumps. Car was on a lift so I set a ladder under it and placed the bottle on that and just pumped away. Took all of both bottles with a bit leaking out. Feels quieter but still has some issues getting to reverse. Oh well.

Well done.

Reverse is difficult to shift into, by design-intent.

Screw it. I did my clutch yesterday and a bunch leaked out so I had to put something in. Didn't have time to get redline so I just put in RP 75w90 and it seems to be ok. I'll change out the diff oil next week. I too used one of those marine oil hand pumps. Car was on a lift so I set a ladder under it and placed the bottle on that and just pumped away. Took all of both bottles with a bit leaking out. Feels quieter but still has some issues getting to reverse. Oh well.

lol when you put it in reverse, if it doesnt wanna go in, put it in neutreal, engage and release the clutch (let go and press the pedal) and then try again.. reverse doesnt have syncros, this is so you dont accidentaly put it in reverse while driving.. and on the off chance that the engagment teeth line up exactly you wont get it in gear ;) so you need to spin them again.
on another note, great thread. i just want to add for the washers, you dont need to buy from mazda
simply buy 4 aluminium washers, 18IDx24OD and tighten al the bolts to the gearbox specification (the difference in torques between gearbox and diff is due to the diff having different material washers and both washers being different thickness.
so 4pc of 18 x 24 x 2 tightened to 27Nm for filler and 48Nm for drain is all that is needed. you can get 4 copper washers, but i wouldnt recomend it on the gearbox, copper and aluminium like each other a little to much to be alowed contact, and copper being more noble, the affair could become VERY expensive, if you know what i mean ;)

So 1.4 qts for the rear diff and 1.8 for the tranny is the average for the change?? And I should either use redline or the Royal Purple that was listed? I just want to make sure.

So 1.4 qts for the rear diff and 1.8 for the tranny is the average for the change?? And I should either use redline or the Royal Purple that was listed? I just want to make sure.

Redline MT-90

Has anybody ever had this situation come up?.........I changed my tranny and rear diff fluid 2 days ago. But yesterday, when I was driving, every now and then I could smell thr tranny fluid. Not the whole time, but I'd get a quick wiff of it. Does anybody know why this is. I check the car all day to make sure there was no leak and there wasnt.

You could have got fluid on the Exhaust when doing the Diff?.

You could have overfilled tranny?

How did you do the fill through the fill plug or the other wrong way through the shifter?

If you think you have done it all OK, wait for a few more days and see if there is still a smell.

You could have got fluid on the Exhaust when doing the Diff?.

You could have overfilled tranny?

How did you do the fill through the fill plug or the other wrong way through the shifter?

If you think you have done it all OK, wait for a few more days and see if there is still a smell.
I filled through the fill hole, not the shifter. I don't think I overfilled the tranny, and if I did, it wouldnt have been by much. I did get a little rear diff fluid on the exhaust so maybe thats it. Thanks for the info though.

So I've been seeing talk of mixing 30% MTL with the MT90 for the tranny. Does this mean only use 3/10ths of the bottle of MTL

or try to make 30% of the mixture MTL

Thanks

All this draining and filling and nobody bothers to pull the cover and inspect the gears? Is there enough room the remove the diff cover with out pulling apart the entire rearend? I want to change the fluids but I also need to know what ratio is in there.

^What ratio are you talking about?

Ring and Pinion ratio. I plan on changing to something numerically lower, but I have to know what I have so I know what's lower.