NPG+ WATERLESS COOLANT ELIMINATES BOIL OVER, CORROSION AND ELECTROLYSIS
NPG+ OFFERS 'POUR IN' INSTALLATION - BETTER HEAT TRANSFER - AND STILL "SAFE!"

http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

NPG+ is new coolant providing dramatic improvements in heat transfer and viscosity that make the new fluid a "pour-in," not requiring changes to cooling system components. Conversion to NPG+ waterless coolant from the use of conventional antifreeze and water coolant mixes, to take advantage of the benefits of non-aqueous engine cooling, is now simple to accomplish.

NPG+ waterless coolant virtually eliminates boil over in gasoline engines - the waterless coolant allows engines to tolerate running hotter, without boiling over, and allows the cooling system to run at very low or no pressure. Because there is no water in the system engines operating with NPG+ will be free from corrosion and electrolysis, and the engines will run well no matter how hard they are driven or how hot or cold the environment is.

A blend of non-aqueous ingredients, NPG+ retains all of the benefits of Evans original NPG coolant, while improving upon its thermal conductivity by about 32 percent and reducing its viscosity by about 65 percent. It is perfectly suited for the demands of any hard working engine, and there are no plumbing or pump changes needed to use this coolant.

A cooling system according to Evans technology uses a non-water-based, high boiling point coolant (over 350º) and controls the temperature of the coolant substantially below its boiling point. This is in sharp contrast to conventional water based coolant systems which operate near the boiling point of the coolant. In conventional systems, locally generated coolant vapor may not condense but rather form an insulating barrier between the coolant jacket metal and the liquid coolant, causing hot spots to develop.

hmmm i'm no chemist but too good to be true = probably is

Is there anyone on this board who has had experience with this product, or know of anybody that has used it?

... it sounds like this stuff is a very runny, highly conductive substance... but i'd be interested to know it's molar heat capacity next to water (which is the reason we use water, and not a light-weight oil or some other highly viscous liquid)... i suppose that this stuff may indeed work better than an aqueous (water based) solution if you were running it through the engine at a higher rate of flow, buuuuut, i dunno... there isn't enough infor here (like hard-numbers info) to really convince me one way or the other, but i am interested...

something like this would (likely, i'm only guessing)be grossly expensive next to your traditional ion-free water and anti-freeze (and Water Wetter or whatever) coolant system... it'd be killer in a race car though, i'm sure, if it indeed had a higher conductive capacity, a smaller radiator could be run... maybe maybe maybe, :) like i said, need more info. :)

cool find Super

huzzah!! here we go:

Quoted from: Evans Cooling Webpage
Boiling Point: 369° F for NPG versus 224° F for 50/50 "EGW" ethylene glycol and water (at atmospheric pressure - 0.0 psig) - benefits include elimination of afterboil and overheating, allowing temperature excursions above those for EGW, faster recondensation of vapor inside the engine, low (2.0 - 4.0 PSIG) or non-pressurized system, no coolant loss operating in high ambient temperatures, and the capability to increase thermostat temperature settings if desired.

Molar Heat of Vaporization: 12,500 Cals/Mole for NPG versus 9,720 Cals/Mole for EGW - benefits include faster recondensation because less vapor is produced, and a reduction of hot spots because of improved liquid to metal contact. All of which eliminate the occurrence of "Film Boiling" and the accumulation of excessive surface vapor.

Surface Tension: 35 Dynes/Cm for NPG versus 56 Dynes/Cm for EGW -- benefits include small vapor bubble sizes, allowing for faster recondensation of vapor and increased liquid to metal interface, and decreased area of nucleate boiling centers, again increasing liquid to metal interface.

Freezing Point: -70° F for NPG versus -38° F for EGW. NPG does not freeze, it crystallizes and supercools (contracts slightly and becomes a viscous slurry).

Toxicity: EGW is considered a hazardous waste whereas NPG is not as PG is used as a food additive and pharmaceutical base fluid.
Vapor Pressure: 590 mm of Hg for EGW at 212° F versus 18 mm of Hg for NPG. This is the major reason for the dramatic decrease in cylinder liner and pump cavitation.


well, i'm at work, so i've gotta WORK... but please, smart people have a paruse and read up on your chem... oh, here's the link:

http://www.evanscooling.com/main21.htm

btw: Sput, could we get this thrown into Tech??

I have 8 gallons of that sitting in my parts room. I plan to install it when I get a chance, but you have to flush out all the old stuff. Evans does not mix with water. Pineapple Racing and a number of private parties have used it successfully in rotaries.

It is important to have a lot of coolant flow, since the NPG doesn't carry as much heat as water per unit volume (weight?) as water. I plan to switch back to the stock main pulley and water pump pulleys for the swap, and I know a few people who drilled some holes in their thermostats to support high flow.

My understanding of why it might help avoid overheating despite carrying less heat is that it avoids localized boiling. Once you get localized boiling, you basically lose most of the heat transfer that was happening at the hottest areas. Once my car gets past a certain "point of no return" that is not yet boiling, it simply will overheat no matter what I do. I can drive slow laps for a while, putz around, whatever, after I pull off and stop the car it will boil over. I believe that there are a bunch of hot spots in the engine that just stop being cooled, so the coolant just boils over completely once I stop. I am hoping the Evans will keep the car cooler on the track through the elimination of hot spots with localized boiling, or at least be more stable at a higher temp. I haven't tried yet, but we'll see this summer. It allows you to run a lower pressure radiator cap, too, which should reduce the chance of popping a radiator or other coolant hose.

If you decide to try it, do be careful when switching to the Evans coolant. It really doesn't mix with water very well, so you can have some strange results if you have a bunch of water left in the system when you add the Evans. I have read a few reports of dissatisfaction that seemed like they might have been the results of a less than thorough conversion.

-Max

IHMO, if mazda designed the renesis for EGW cooling, i'm going to use EGW, save the money, and forget the hassle. :D

Originally posted by maxcooper
It is important to have a lot of coolant flow, since the NPG doesn't carry as much heat as water per unit volume (weight?) as water. I plan to switch back to the stock main pulley and water pump pulleys for the swap, and I know a few people who drilled some holes in their thermostats to support high flow.

My understanding of why it might help avoid overheating despite carrying less heat is that it avoids localized boiling. Once you get localized boiling, you basically lose most of the heat transfer that was happening at the hottest areas. Once my car gets past a certain "point of no return" that is not yet boiling, it simply will overheat no matter what I do. I can drive slow laps for a while, putz around, whatever, after I pull off and stop the car it will boil over. I believe that there are a bunch of hot spots in the engine that just stop being cooled, so the coolant just boils over completely once I stop. I am hoping the Evans will keep the car cooler on the track through the elimination of hot spots with localized boiling, or at least be more stable at a higher temp. I haven't tried yet, but we'll see this summer. It allows you to run a lower pressure radiator cap, too, which should reduce the chance of popping a radiator or other coolant hose.
-Max

And you see, this is why the boiling point is sooo important. Once the liquid boils, it simply will not accept any more heat. Yes there are exceptions like superheating, but this is practically impossible because the inside of an engine has millions of jagged edges for the boiling to occur. You can even test it at home, boil a pot of water and stick a thermometer in, it shouldnt read more than 100 degrees (or 212 F) unless you cheat and touch the pot with the thermometer. If you want to see what superheating is like be very careful as it can injure you severely, but all you have to do is take a glass bowl full of water (has to be glass) and microwave it for like 10 minutes. Then when its done, and standing very far away, throw a spoon (or anything) into the water and the water will flash boil which means water on your ceiling. You've all seen the show jackass so i don't have to tell you that anything stupid that happens to you is your own fault so be carefull!!

Originally posted by maxcooper
NPG doesn't carry as much heat as water per unit volume (weight?) as water. I plan to switch back to the stock main pulley and water pump pulleys for the swap, and I know a few people who drilled some holes in their thermostats to support high flow.

My understanding of why it might help avoid overheating despite carrying less heat is that it avoids localized boiling. Once you get localized boiling, you basically lose most of the heat transfer that was happening at the hottest areas.It allows you to run a lower pressure radiator cap, too, which should reduce the chance of popping a radiator or other coolant hose.

-Max

ah ha... yeah, so my suspicion was correct ;)
it's the heat capacity (in whatever unit you like... energy) per mol (which is a number of molecules, as in a volume/mass measurement you can have different densities, leaving you with different real amounts to compare) of water is higher... this, i believe, along with cost is the reason that EGW is still used so prolifically

anyhoo, this stuff seems fantastic. :) DEFINITELY a race product... lower rad-system pressure DOES mean greater reliability, and if you can get your coolant pump workin' fast enough, i'm sure you could run a smaller rad (maybe with the same core depth) saving you a pound or two off the front (but lots less drag down the straight when you tape down the duct ;)).
but for the street?? i dunno, not especially necessary, and for something like drag racing where the cars idle for a long time, then move for a few seconds (albeit at a very high speed by the time you get up there), then slow down and stop again, this really wouldn't help you too much, as it seems it'd allow the engine to get hotter faster... same deal with your daily driver, but obviously not as extreme (unless you're a real bonehead ;))

http://www.pineappleracing.com

muah ha ha ha... i now can excersize my moderating powers *wiggles fingers at screen like the geek i am*