I'm in the process of installing replacement speakers for the Bose stereo and thought some pictures would be of interest to others with the Bose system.

The woofer is a very strange configuration--very flat and very light-weight. Pictures to follow...

Here is the back of the Bose woofer...

A shot of the door with the Bose woofer and amplifier still installed.

I held a yard stick next to the opening to show dimensions...

nice... what do you have in mind?

Interesting pics. I only have the base stereo with my sport package-equipped car, so it's cool to see how the Bose setup is.
One question that I asked already: on these pictures, the Bose speaker also has that shrouding that I noticed on the base door speaker as well. I suppose it's there to protect against water... When I replaced my speakers, I did not use any shield since I had no good material available. Is that really necessary? I mean, is there any real danger that my speakers would get wet? I hope not...
Where is a good place to get some sort of a shield or baffle or whatever?

Thanks.

I installed a five channel Soundstream Edge amp, and then Focal co-ax 690 CA's in the rear deck. The CA's are a bit of a disappointment, but I cut costs in the deck speakers so I could spend more on the doors.

After talking to some local shops and reading threads in this forum, I noticed two ways of approaching the deck speakers. Some prefer the rear and front speakers to be the same. Others contend that the deck speakers are just for fill, so put the money in the door speakers. I flipped a coin and chose the latter approach.

So the doors are getting Focal 165 W separates. To be honest, I was going to use 165 V Slims or something, but this project has been a lot more work than I anticipated, and I don't want to take the doors apart again;) (Most of the work was installing the amp and connecting to the pre-amp outs at the head unit--you can see more info at http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21153)

Tamas: I think your right about that foam surround--it's to keep water off of the speaker.

The Focal speakers don't mention anything about adding protection from water, but I'm curious what experienced installers would do...

Originally posted by Tamas
Interesting pics. I only have the base stereo with my sport package-equipped car, so it's cool to see how the Bose setup is.
One question that I asked already: on these pictures, the Bose speaker also has that shrouding that I noticed on the base door speaker as well. I suppose it's there to protect against water... When I replaced my speakers, I did not use any shield since I had no good material available. Is that really necessary? I mean, is there any real danger that my speakers would get wet? I hope not...
Where is a good place to get some sort of a shield or baffle or whatever?

Thanks.


I too would hope that your speaker or amp never get wet, but for anyone that thinks it's crazy to have happen, search the forum for my tint problems. Long story short, the window tint guy used enough water is his application of tint that he blew my speaker AND the amp. (I never quizzed him as to WHY he was playing my stereo while he worked.) He lost 564 dollars to replace the speaker. We didn't find out about the amp until the speaker was replaced. Fortunately for his bank account, the dealer covered the amp under the warranty. :mad:

Wow, gotta ask, how did you remove all the door stuff!

I posted a thread with pictures of the screw and snap connectors that hold on the door panel:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21613

George,

How deep is the cavity from where the mounting holes are to where that horizontal brace piece is inside the door? In other words, about how deep of a speaker could you get in there?

Also, do you have any close up picks of the little door amps?

One comment about the woofer. With that thin light weight stamped steel basket, that woofer is GOING to distort on loud passages. It looks like a well designed speaker, but as with almost all Bose speakers, too much emphasis on keeping the cost down. They are made in Mexico for probably $4 a piece.

Thanks in advance.

-Mr. Wigggles

I don't have the window rolled down at this time, but maybe this picture will provide a general idea of the mounting depth.

Here's a closeup of the Bose amplifiers...

Rolling down the windows will likely not cause any problem with fitting a speaker that has a mounting depth of about 2.5 inches (max. 3 is my guess but that might be pushing it). The window does not intrude in the space that a regular-sized speaker magnet would occupy.

Edit: actually, come to think of it, you should be able to mount a fairly deep speaker since you are mounting it to the black plastic panel behind the door trim. So this means that even a speaker with something like 4 inches depth should be OK...

I am picking up my Sunlight RX8 next week, thinking about installing a CAP (1 farod) to the BOSE.....any ideas if that would work? Or should I install new speakers too. Thanks!!!!!

If the lights don't dim on heavy bass notes then you don't need a stiffening cap.

-Mr. Wigggles

I'm not an experienced installer, but my take on adding a cap is that is helps the amp by providing power during peak current draw. Not sure that this would help the Bose system...

Opinions of the Bose system vary, but personally, I've driven Protege rental cars that had much better sounding audio. Actually, my 1990 Volvo 740 had a much better sounding system.

I guess it depends on what type of music you listen to in the car, and what exposure you've had to high-end home and car systems.

My aftermarket system is getting close to wiring completion (amp mounting and possibly a sub woofer will follow some time down the road). The Soundstream amp and Focal speakers seem to provide a full/rich sound, but I won't know the final quality until the install is complete and the speakers have broken in. The HU will always be the limiting factor, but I don't want to mess with the faceplate and steering wheel controls...

Tamas: The window, when rolled down, does enter the space behind the speaker for 1-2 inches, but beyond that the door has lots of clearance.

Since I'm installing 6.5" speakers, I cut some mounting plates from 1/4" plastic (per your thread recommendation, I believe) to adapt to the 9" Bose openings.

If an installer is aware of the window position, s/he could place a deep speaker in the Bose cutout.

In my case, the 1/4" plastic provides plenty of clearance for the Focal 165 w 's (about 3")

my headlights dims on heavy bass notes. What should I do?

Originally posted by manok_adobo
my headlights dims on heavy bass notes. What should I do?

Have your alternator checked, because the factory Bose system shouldn't be doing that.

Have your alternator checked, because the factory Bose system shouldn't be doing that.

I just have the base stereo. I have a 1200 watt system, is this too much for the battery?

Probably as long as it is truly a 1200 watt system. What kind of amp are you using? If you haven't upgraded the factory ground wires on the car, it is unlikely you'd get 1200 watts out of an amp anyways.

The BOSE woofer in the door looks exactly the same as the BOSE rear deck woofer that came standard in a 2001 Acura 3.2TL I use to own.

Sorry to bring up this old topic, but does anyone know how many watts the bose amp is putting out Im thinking of changing my rear speakers.... thanks!

Originally posted by CactusGeorge
I'm in the process of installing replacement speakers for the Bose stereo and thought some pictures would be of interest to others with the Bose system.

The woofer is a very strange configuration--very flat and very light-weight. Pictures to follow...


Here's the thread I was looking for before - thanks jn for bringing it up with a new post. I just want to upgrade the front door speakers until I get the motivation to take out the rear seats to get to the rear speakers.

CactusGeorge, how does your Bose system sound now that you've upgraded the speakers? Did you upgrade all of them or just some?

Hmm, you aren't the one whose upgraded Bose system stopped working after a week is it? I read that one and got discouraged.

starbucks:
Yes, my HU fried after a few weeks, but this problem is easily preventable--tie in after the Bose amp with a line level converter!
It is possible to tie in before the amp as well, just make sure that you use a differential-input compatible interface, whether that be a stand-alone device or the speaker-level inputs of an amp. Just to make sure, do an ohm check to ensure that the - (shield) signal are NOT shorted together at the amp or interface!
I replaced the tuner unit in the HU and am now up and running with a Navone N774V (connected at the output of the Bose amp). I suspect that the Bose amp has some built-in equalization (see my thread on Line Converters), but I'm using a 1/3 octive parametric equalizer to try and work out the kinks...

bump for some good info (& to make the pics reappear)

I am picking up my Sunlight RX8 next week, thinking about installing a CAP (1 farod) to the BOSE.....any ideas if that would work? Or should I install new speakers too. Thanks!!!!!
I put a cap on my bose system. It helped keep the lights from dimming at high volumes.

Hi guys! My audio system ( shortly): Kenwood M9070 head unit, Exide Maxxima Deep Cycle 900A battery, Carpower 5 Farad!!! carbon-hybrid capacitor, 4 pc Emphaser Kick-Basses in the doors for 70-220Hz frequency, 2 liters RF Noise Blocker and dampening materials into the doors, Focal Power 4K Slim (from 170Hz) on the top of the instrument panel in sealed box, Kicker S10L7 SoloBaric in ported MDF-carbon combined box ( light weight and rigid) under 70 Hz, hi-end wires, and Phoenix Gold ZX450 for the kicks and the focals, Rockford Fosgate Power 500a2 for the sub.

It's needed lot of working hours and patience, but worth it.

Some pictures:

I put a cap on my bose system. It helped keep the lights from dimming at high volumes.

If your factory system is dimming at high volumes, there has got to be something wrong. the bose system doesnt draw enough current to dim the lights...at least not in my car and I generally listen at Volume Level 25 or so. A cap in such a low powered system is pretty much a waste of money. Add an aftermarket sub and that would be a different story. Are you running any other non-factory electronics off of the battery?

My cap punched my battery in the nose, then the ground wire wrapped itself around the cap and strangled it to death. The car has been happy ever since.

I've been to some audio shops and checked here on this forum and it says the front door speakers are 6x8, but in the picture it shows a round 9inch speaker? I'm guessing a 6x8 could fit in there, or a 6.5, or even a 6x9. What's the deal with this?

It also says the back speakers are 6x8, but I know most people have changed out those and installed 6x9's. Hmmm...I'm just a bit confused here.

I've been to some audio shops and checked here on this forum and it says the front door speakers are 6x8, but in the picture it shows a round 9inch speaker? I'm guessing a 6x8 could fit in there, or a 6.5, or even a 6x9. What's the deal with this?

It also says the back speakers are 6x8, but I know most people have changed out those and installed 6x9's. Hmmm...I'm just a bit confused here.

The front door speakers in the base, non-Bose system are 6x8. This thread is about Bose speakers, which are 9" comps.

Hi guys! My audio system ( shortly): Kenwood M9070 head unit, Exide Maxxima Deep Cycle 900A battery, Carpower 5 Farad!!! carbon-hybrid capacitor, 4 pc Emphaser Kick-Basses in the doors for 70-220Hz frequency, 2 liters RF Noise Blocker and dampening materials into the doors, Focal Power 4K Slim (from 170Hz) on the top of the instrument panel in sealed box, Kicker S10L7 SoloBaric in ported MDF-carbon combined box ( light weight and rigid) under 70 Hz, hi-end wires, and Phoenix Gold ZX450 for the kicks and the focals, Rockford Fosgate Power 500a2 for the sub.

It's needed lot of working hours and patience, but worth it.

Some pictures:Awesome that you managed to squeeze a pair of speakers in each door.... but your tweeter job looks like total s#it. Sorry.... but I must be honest.

I think he knew that a year ago..

they sell 9 inch components??? im confused

^^^Dude, WTF?

Has anyone tried some 8" shallow moujnt woofers for the front doors? I foujnd some pioneers with mounting depth less then 3". Not looking for huge bass just some deep bass.