As detailed in this thread: http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=3520268
Manual: http://kapsenlogic.com/up/goodbox.pdf
Please send payment of $220 to pieter.kapsenberg@gmail.com via paypal.

Convenient paypal link (https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=ZQ5P5ML2D45LS)

This will get you the GOODbox, the wiring harness, 8 T-tap connectors, 8 spade-style connectors and 2 pairs of bullet-style connectors. Shipping is included.

There are a total of 47 for sale, first come first serve

Thanks guys for all your support and feedback during the development period!

Edit: For international orders, please include $20 shipping.
Edit: This for the Series 1 RX8, upto and including 2008 model year. It *might* work on a 2009 but I do not have one to test with, so I can't be sure.
Edit: The GOODbox is not compatible with aftermarket headunits like the metra or corksport kit.

1 for me

oops gottta wait a couple days for the new cc.

You just got paid Pieter. Thanks!

So after all of these sell is that it???

So after all of these sell is that it???

If they sell out, I can always have more made. But there will be a 3 week turn around time. Alternatively I might just release the schematics and firmware, and let people go nuts

If they sell out, I can always have more made. But there will be a 3 week turn around time. Alternatively I might just release the schematics and firmware, and let people go nuts


Whew, okay thats good, lol... you scared me at first, im not gonna have enough $$$ at first to buy it... thanks man and great product :icon_tup:

Payment and PM sent!

I've been waiting for this.

got PP? :cwm27:

Paypal payment completed

hmmm may pay you very shortly, have to check money first

+1 for me.

Very ingenious.

Geesh, can you program one to work with a Prosport oil pressure gauge and oil temp gauge? :) Instructions look very difficult but it's awesome you have the two analog inputs.

Please let me know if you sell out, I want one but I have some stuff to buy first :)

wow man after all that work 220 is to cheap don't get me wrong!!!!!
but this thing is great compared to rb gauges

wow man after all that work 220 is to cheap don't get me wrong!!!!!
but this thing is great compared to rb gauges

Feel free to pay me more :mdrmed:

hahahahaha thanks i hope not one tells you that is to much!!!!

Paypal'ed!

tempted.. but unsure if it'll work with my corksport dash kit. all the factory harnesses are still there..... hmmmm

I can't remember if this was addressed in the other thread or not, but will this work for the Mazda 3 as-is?

I can't remember if this was addressed in the other thread or not, but will this work for the Mazda 3 as-is?

No, this only work for the 2003-2008 RX8

Alternatively I might just release the schematics and firmware, and let people go nuts

:icon_droo That would be awesome!
Or allow people to buy a kit with all the components and PCB to solder themselves.
This would take away the SMT manufacturing processes.

perhaps you have answered this, does it do mpg display?
If not can i use a flow sensor to feed the 0-5v analog input

perhaps you have answered this, does it do mpg display?
If not can i use a flow sensor to feed the 0-5v analog input

It does not. I've tried calculating it from the MAF, air/fuel and speed, but it is wildly inaccurate that way. I don't think we want to look at the mpg anyway haha.

Man I wish I could get my oil temp and oil pressure gauge to work with this. I read the directions and it might as well be in Greek as far as the aux inputs are concerned :)

Man I wish I could get my oil temp and oil pressure gauge to work with this. I read the directions and it might as well be in Greek as far as the aux inputs are concerned :)

It really isn't too bad. You just have to know how the voltage from the sensor maps to the temp/pressure. So if you have 2.3Volts from the oil pressure sensor, what is the pressure that that represents? You would use the gauge you have now to determine this.

Hmmmm, If I give the manufacture of the sending units/gauges can you figure it out and sell as a package? To have all the data currently and oil pressure and oil temp would be perfect.

Hmmmm, If I give the manufacture of the sending units/gauges can you figure it out and sell as a package? To have all the data currently and oil pressure and oil temp would be perfect.

No I would need to measure the voltage on your car while it is running. If you think you can't figure it out, your best bet is to ask someone you know who is more familiar with this kind of stuff

Yeah, I will have to find a real electronics guy locally. Maybe I will see if the BHR crew can figure it out, I'm probably gonna roll out that way soon enough.

radioshack multimeter ftw 9k...

radioshack multimeter ftw 9k...

I will look into this and see what I can figure out.

paid! cant wait

tempted.. but unsure if it'll work with my corksport dash kit. all the factory harnesses are still there..... hmmmm

i also have the corksport. i bit. if you want ill let you know

since the display reads on startup im fairly certain it will work

im in give me a day to get the cash

Hello,

You mentioned that these weren't compatible for the mazda3's - does this include the speed3's too?

Is it because you dont have the instructions for the MS3's or was there an actual wiring problem??

I really want to jump on this and pick one up if it will work.

Thanks!

Hello,

You mentioned that these weren't compatible for the mazda3's - does this include the speed3's too?

Is it because you dont have the instructions for the MS3's or was there an actual wiring problem??

I really want to jump on this and pick one up if it will work.

Thanks!
No, it will not work. Although the 3 uses the same LCD, the display module communicates with the rest of the car completely differently. I would have to design a different circuit board to work with the 3 and/or 6.

booo....

so when can we expect the new circuit board to be released :naughty:

i also have the corksport. i bit. if you want ill let you know

since the display reads on startup im fairly certain it will work

lol.. sent you a PM.. then immediatly said "f-it" and sent my paypal in. This is gonna be great if it works.. otherwise i'll have a never used goodbox for sale for 400 bucks after these all sell out :rock:

i kid, i kid.

otherwise i'll have a never used goodbox for sale for 400 bucks after these all sell out :rock:

:suspect: not cool...

:p:


Thanks for the PM pieter3d, will have funds soon! Great product as I said before!

In the meantime, I know he has very detailed install instructions, but if anyone can find any tricks or anything while installing, definitely post up!

Ryan :smoker:

It really isn't too bad. You just have to know how the voltage from the sensor maps to the temp/pressure. So if you have 2.3Volts from the oil pressure sensor, what is the pressure that that represents? You would use the gauge you have now to determine this.

Standard sensors are simply variable resisitors. They vary in response to what they are measuring. (My oil pressure sensor varies from 3 to ~160 ohms as the pressure varies from 0-10 bar if I'm remembering right.) A sensor by itself doesn't produce a voltage, that has to come from somewhere else. (Volts = Current x Resistance). One has to either supply a constant voltage and measure a change in current, or a constant current and measure the change in voltage. Classic cheap gauges are basically am(p)meters which use the ~14.7 constant voltage from the battery to measure the changing current caused by the variable resistance of the sensor. In other words, there is no way to tap a variable voltage signal for input to the Goodbox from a "classic" cheap gauge set.

Do "modern" cheap gauges work differently? IE, by internally incorporating a constant-current power supply to produce a voltage that varies with the changing resistance of the sensor? If that's the case, then tapping the voltage line of the gauge will work if the signal range falls in the 0-5V range. But then, having the gauge installed is required to get the Goodbox signal, which kinds defeats the purpose of having a Goodbox in the first place.

It seems to me then to get an oil pressure or temp signal without having a gauge installed either requires a little independant constant-current power supply to run the sensor circuit, or using battery voltage together with a little ammeter with an appropriate voltage output.

Am I thinking right or am I stuck in the Edison-era?

(Payment sent by the way!)

HiFlight, all you gotta do is look :)

this is just a random pressure sensor i looked up

http://www.senzors.com/us/products/hiprecision/pi1h.asp?link=ctbody&SID=6675&ptree=us/products/hiprecision

Pressure ranges
Any from 0-300 psi to 0-3,000 psi

Overpressure (safe overload pressure, proof pressure)
1.5x rated pressure

Operating temperature range
-40 to 125°C (-22°F to 260°F)

Accuracy
0.05%FS typ.

Supply
10-28VDC (constant voltage)

Output signal
4-20mA, 0-1V, 0-2.5V, 0-5V, 0-10V

Pressure port
Many choices available

Electrical termination
Many choices available

Wetted parts
316L Stainless Steel



if you know what you are looking for, you can put damn near any "gauge" you want on this thing... 0-5V output is so damn common

did you ever add the CEL code feature?

page 8 of the instruction manual ;)

lol. since there werent pictures i didnt read it....

lol. since there werent pictures i didnt read it....

then this is not a mod for you...

then this is not a mod for you...


haha. nah, ill read it all once i get the unit in hand

paid!

HiFlight, all you gotta do is look :)

this is just a random pressure sensor i looked up

http://www.senzors.com/us/products/hiprecision/pi1h.asp?link=ctbody&SID=6675&ptree=us/products/hiprecision


if you know what you are looking for, you can put damn near any "gauge" you want on this thing... 0-5V output is so damn common

Good find. What I was trying to point out is there's a bit of a disconnect in the discussion. Page 8 and on in the instruction manual tells what to do with a 0-5V signal, not how to get that signal. What you can't do is wire the goodbox to a standard sensor, at least the 3 different versions I've gotten from summit, glowshift and ebay; they all vary resistance. To make that kind of sensor work, you have to add some electronic stuff. Or, a much better suggestion, use a sensor with a native 0-5v output for the Goodbox as you showed, but then a standard gauge won't work with that. Getting both to work, like 9krpm was talking about, would require some cleverness.

Good find. What I was trying to point out is there's a bit of a disconnect in the discussion. Page 8 and on in the instruction manual tells what to do with a 0-5V signal, not how to get that signal. What you can't do is wire the goodbox to a standard sensor, at least the 3 different versions I've gotten from summit, glowshift and ebay; they all vary resistance. To make that kind of sensor work, you have to add some electronic stuff. Or, a much better suggestion, use a sensor with a native 0-5v output for the Goodbox as you showed, but then a standard gauge won't work with that. Getting both to work, like 9krpm was talking about, would require some cleverness.

oh, i missed the part about making it work with regular gauges as well.... i feel stupid now....

yeah that will take some doing. it wouldnt be hard from an electrical engineer point of view, but prolly more than most people would want to DIY

it works as advertised!

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8314/photo2vh.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1349/photo3pg.jpg

Nice!!! Can you give me your supercharger so I can see if the boost function works?

it works as advertised!

Well done and congrats Dondo, first installed! Also good work on quick shipping from Pieter. He's been great organising and shipping to Australia and I can't wait for it to arrive.


oh, i missed the part about making it work with regular gauges as well.... i feel stupid now....

yeah that will take some doing. it wouldnt be hard from an electrical engineer point of view, but prolly more than most people would want to DIY

I'm interested in this too. I'm planning on hooking up oil temp, but not sure exactly what will work with it, given that I don't already have a gauge.

I still have a couple of weeks, while my unit flies over the ocean, to find a temp sender and sort out potential electrical issues as above.

Nice!!! Can you give me your supercharger so I can see if the boost function works?

sure. come get it!

Congrats on getting this off the ground! Saw the original thread long ago when it was made and thought it was a great idea. I hope this see this carry you far :icon_tup:

I'm interested in this too. I'm planning on hooking up oil temp, but not sure exactly what will work with it, given that I don't already have a gauge.

I still have a couple of weeks, while my unit flies over the ocean, to find a temp sender and sort out potential electrical issues as above.



it'd be MUCH simpler to simply have a standard gauge OR use the GOODbox alone.. making both work isnt gonna be fun if you've never worked with electronics before(on the component level)

it'd be MUCH simpler to simply have a standard gauge OR use the GOODbox alone.. making both work isnt gonna be fun if you've never worked with electronics before(on the component level)

True, if there's an overlap between the gauge/goodbox function. Right now, I have water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauges. Since the OBDII has 'native' water temp, I'll remove my water temp gauge and replace it with an EGT gauge. The goodbox will then give engine water temp, AFR, vacuum, with the normal gauges giving op, ot, and egt. To get my ash tray back, I'd have to get 3 new sensors, and get that information into the 2 free goodbox inputs - not so easy. It would also be nice to have the radiator outlet temperature (feeding the engine from the lower radiator hose), for a total of 4 sensors going into 2 channels - messy.

oh HEY cn you hold off sending it? im going away tonight until next wednesday!

How many are left?

How many are left?

There are 35 left as of 7/12

oh just buy one david!:)

yeah man. it's awesome and i'll even install it for you. ;) (it might come out saying "Dondo was here" when you start your car though.)

can't believe these didn't sell out already. I was on the fence during the fab process but once it came out at this price it was a no-brainer.

LOL I will only buy 1

BTW if mine says Dondo then I will want a refund!

if yours comes out of the box saying 'dondo was here" you have bigger issues, since that means Dondo is your delivery guy

If he is anything like me then it would say "Dondo's Bitch!" or something like that :lol:

hey! i think i'd be a good delivery guy.

edit: ^ lol. i like that one better. now get one ordered!

If he is anything like me then it would say "Dondo's Bitch!" or something like that :lol:

you'd always be able to add the letter A between those two words

Paid for one...

you'd always be able to add the letter A between those two words

hey now..... :nono:

shhhhhhh! tis a GB not a chat thread:slap:

shhhhhhh! tis a GB not a chat thread:slap:

sorry i was trying to sell one to pdxhak. :dunno:

I will buying mine tonight :) Need to wash the car and fix a closet door before the wife gets home with the kids.

Too bad I left for China for 4 weeks right as this came out.

But that.s OK, good thing is I can fix my temp dial while I am in there. I need to wait to close on my house in St Helens anyways. Have more room and all my tools available.

could someone show me a pic how the water temp and oil pressure look on there.....
is there a warning on those area??

It does not do oil pressure.

how about oil temp??

The RX8 from the factory does not have a real oil pressure or oil temperature sensor, so there is no way for the GOODbox to display those unless you use aftermarket sensors and setup the Aux1/2 analog inputs.

how about oil temp??


Read the instruction PDF. It reads from the factory computer which has no ability to display oil temp and pressure. With this unit there are two AUX inputs but wiring up oil temp and oil pressure has not been done yet.

Read the instruction PDF. It reads from the factory computer which has no ability to display oil temp and pressure. With this unit there are two AUX inputs but wiring up oil temp and oil pressure has not been done yet.

I'm curious if these type of sensors are compatible (wiring and correction factors from the PDF used)... Dakota Digital (VDO) digital oil pressure sender (http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=110/category_id=311/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd110.htm)

I'm curious if these type of sensors are compatible (wiring and correction factors from the PDF used)... Dakota Digital (VDO) digital oil pressure sender (http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=110/category_id=311/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd110.htm)

Please read posts #38, #39 and a few beyond of this thread. Summary:

1) Standard automotive senders for op, ot, wt, etc. are resistive - their signal is in OHMS.

2) The goodbox aux inputs require a 0 to 5 VOLT signal.

That sender won't work! (Unless you add some extra electronics.)

HiFlite999, can you figure what will work? Someone please do this, my Prosport Oil Pressure gauge just took a dump, now is the time for me to do this.

HiFlite999, can you figure what will work? Someone please do this, my Prosport Oil Pressure gauge just took a dump, now is the time for me to do this.

pieter3d please review, but I think these $65 units will work fine:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659

http://www.aemelectronics.com/100-psig-brass-sensor-kit-656

(The AEM gauge products also have a 0-5V output from the gauge head that could be used. Don't confuse a gauge output like that from the output of the sensor itself. Apparently their oil pressure sender *does* output a real 0-5v signal, but their temperature senders *do not*.)

These particular units even come with the transfer function that you'll need to code into the goodbox. 0-100 psi is fine for a stock oil system. For $100 more (yikes) you can get it in stainless steel. A quick clue that this is *not* a standard resistive sensor is the 3-wire hookup vs the usual 1 or 2 wires.

Many of the other references I've found are much more for OEM use, for example:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=480-2581-ND

$106 for one; $19,202 for 250 (group buy??) :D:

Verify with pieter3d though before buying, 'cause he's the engineer, not me ...

The AEM sensor would work just fine, provided you can get it onto the engine somehow. However it requires a 5V supply voltage, so you still have to figure that out somehow.

So for over 100 PSI the AEM would not work? I see above 140psi at redline.

The AEM sensor would work just fine, provided you can get it onto the engine somehow. However it requires a 5V supply voltage, so you still have to figure that out somehow.

I already have an oil filter adapter plate with an oil pressure sensor and oil temp sensor in it.

This is who makes my oil temp gauge, will these work? I think so but need clarification.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=125&zenid=f7762cd58629ad764cd714d51103d3e6

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=134&zenid=f7762cd58629ad764cd714d51103d3e6

I already have an oil filter adapter plate with an oil pressure sensor and oil temp sensor in it.

This is who makes my oil temp gauge, will these work? I think so but need clarification.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=125&zenid=f7762cd58629ad764cd714d51103d3e6

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=134&zenid=f7762cd58629ad764cd714d51103d3e6

Dude, just get a multimeter and measure the voltage going to your gauge, broken or not. If it stays under 5V, it should be fine.

just got mine in the mail! installation will commence tomorrow or tonight. eagerly awaiting for peeps to figure out what oil sensors will work and how. because i know nothing of computers and electronics.

The AEM sensor would work just fine, provided you can get it onto the engine somehow. However it requires a 5V supply voltage, so you still have to figure that out somehow.

Oops, missed that. The standard Prosport adapter plate has 1/8" NPT so fitting isn't an issue. Would have to scare up a 12V to 5V converter.

I already have an oil filter adapter plate with an oil pressure sensor and oil temp sensor in it.

This is who makes my oil temp gauge, will these work? I think so but need clarification.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=125&zenid=f7762cd58629ad764cd714d51103d3e6

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=134&zenid=f7762cd58629ad764cd714d51103d3e6

The oil pressure sender would work, but has the same problem in requiring a 5V power source.

The temperature sender 99% sure won't work. Getting a temperature sensor with a "native" 0-5V linear output will be hard.

a) Do you want to have gauges + the goodbox display?
Or (b) do you want the goodbox display to replace the gauge entirely?

just got mine today.. will have it installed monday or tuesday

The oil pressure sender would work, but has the same problem in requiring a 5V power source.

The temperature sender 99% sure won't work. Getting a temperature sensor with a "native" 0-5V linear output will be hard.

a) Do you want to have gauges + the goodbox display?
Or (b) do you want the goodbox display to replace the gauge entirely?


I would at least like to eliminate my oil pressure gauge. I am ok keeping the Auber oil temp gauge since it's mounted in the radio and doesn't stand out. Then I'll use whoneedspistons new pod for EGT, Oil Temp, and Nitrous.

The oil pressure sender would work, but has the same problem in requiring a 5V power source.

The temperature sender 99% sure won't work. Getting a temperature sensor with a "native" 0-5V linear output will be hard.

a) Do you want to have gauges + the goodbox display?
Or (b) do you want the goodbox display to replace the gauge entirely?

I'm definately in the (b) category, I want an oil temp display on my GOODBox and nowhere else.

It seems that all we will need is a temp/pressure sender with a native 0-5v output and some way to get a 5v power supply to it. This sounds simple enough in theory, but I hope someone else can elaborate on how/if it will work in practice?

If anyone gets it working (or expects to), I'm sure a link to what will work would be beneficial to others here.


EDIT: Maybe we should take this discussion to the orignal thread and leave this for the group buy itself?

AFAIK Neither OIL Temp or OIL Pressure can be monitored with the GoodBox for a Series 1 with OEM sensors as your cars PCM does not monitor the variables in Voltage to measure Oil Pressure and or Oil Temps (OEM has no Oil Temp Sensor)...in other words, if a ScanGauge and any OBD Reader does not include these two neither can this Great GoodBox, again as it is taking the same standard "signals" from PCM just like a ScanGauge or OBD+Key does.

The Series 2, Oil Pressure Sensor is mounted on #1 EMOP (electric metering oil pump),it does report Voltage Resistance to the PCM, it determines Voltage as Oil Pressure (7 to 21 PSI Approx, inside EMOP) the higher the Voltage the Higher the Oil Pressure or Lower the Voltage the Lower the Oil Pressure, if there is a problem with engine Oil Pressure in Series 2 you get a constant Warning Lamp if too low, and or the same warning lamp flashes if there is an Oil Supply or Control Malfunction at EMOP.

Unfortunately it appears this can not also be read at OBD, well not with the OBD+Key Reader I use for my car.

Pieter, may be able to access these Voltage readouts if he is given the correct "Numbers" from a S2??

The Sensor for S1's (Under Oil Filter) AFAIK just registers a Drop or Low Voltage from Low Oil Pressure/Level, hence the dash warning light.

Sorry for my simpleton speak..

Sorry guys, should have read last thread page here /\ /\...Dam the email Updates! :)

AFAIK Neither OIL Temp or OIL Pressure can be monitored with the GoodBox for a Series 1 with OEM sensors as your cars PCM does not monitor the variables in Voltage to measure Oil Pressure and or Oil Temps (OEM has no Oil Temp Sensor)...in other words, if a ScanGauge and any OBD Reader does not include these two neither can this Great GoodBox, again as it is taking the same standard "signals" from PCM just like a ScanGauge or OBD+Key does.

This is true, but Pieter has included spots to add additional sensors (not provided by Mazda) and there is some discussion as to how this would work.


EDIT:
Sorry guys, should have read last thread page here /\ /\...Dam the email Updates!

And I should have given you a few moments before responding.

The RX8 from the factory does not have a real oil pressure or oil temperature sensor, so there is no way for the GOODbox to display those unless you use aftermarket sensors and setup the Aux1/2 analog inputs.

Yep...Just what I thought Pieter...S2 Does have Real OP...

This is true, but Pieter has included spots to add additional sensors (not provided by Mazda) and there is some discussion as to how this would work.


EDIT:


And I should have given you a few moments before responding.

No Problems mate..I or should I say we do it all the time...Australia is a long way away...lol:eek:

I would at least like to eliminate my oil pressure gauge. I am ok keeping the Auber oil temp gauge since it's mounted in the radio and doesn't stand out. Then I'll use whoneedspistons new pod for EGT, Oil Temp, and Nitrous.

Okay, that's the easy one to eliminate. You'd just have to add a 12V to 5V converter to power the
http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-ps...sensor-kit-659 (http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659) sensor.

Pressure sensors like this are findable, temperature sensors are all resistive. I think by putting a "step up" resistor in a circuit powered at 5V, the normal aftermarket sensors can be made to work. I have to think about this a little and dig up a few bits of hardware. My Goodbox arrived last night, so maybe I can come up with a working example in a week or so.

If anyone gets it working (or expects to), I'm sure a link to what will work would be beneficial to others here.

EDIT: Maybe we should take this discussion to the original thread and leave this for the group buy itself?

Agreed on both points.

None of this discussion should imply anything negative about the Goodbox itself. Pieter3d has come up with a great gadget. Of course in releasing it to compulsive mod freaks, twiddling afterward is guaranteed!

Maybe you can start a thread on your install/build. I have to pay for my Cobb this payday and then I am ordering.

I was at least expecting it to be gold plated :suspect:

j/k

Too bad it only has boost and not vacuum too ....

measuring oil pressure on a Renesis is a total waste, especially when you haven't even bothered to measure fuel pressure yet ...



.

I was at least expecting it to be gold plated :suspect:

j/k

Too bad it only has boost and not vacuum too ....

measuring oil pressure on a Renesis is a total waste, especially when you haven't even bothered to measure fuel pressure yet ...



.

The boost sensor can measure vacuum too. it will read from -14psi to around +23psi

The AEM sensor would work just fine, provided you can get it onto the engine somehow. However it requires a 5V supply voltage, so you still have to figure that out somehow.

Would have to scare up a 12V to 5V converter.

You'd just have to add a 12V to 5V converter to power the
http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-ps...sensor-kit-659 (http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659) sensor.

Pressure sensors like this are findable, temperature sensors are all resistive. I think by putting a "step up" resistor in a circuit powered at 5V, the normal aftermarket sensors can be made to work. I have to think about this a little and dig up a few bits of hardware. My Goodbox arrived last night, so maybe I can come up with a working example in a week or so.

good luck finding a step-up resistor :P i kid..

depending on sensor power requirements you could use simple resistors to achieve 5V depending on how stable your 12V supply is. i think realistically a voltage regulator is gonna be easiest. Google data sheets or diagrams for LM317(iirc off the top of my head this is a regulator and VERY easy to setup)

if you guys decide you are REALLY serious about making this work, i can draw up what you need and even break it down barney style for ya for your 5V power source. Maybe even something for your units that dont have a 0-5V output. lemme think about that one for a bit

I was at least expecting it to be gold plated :suspect:

j/k

Too bad it only has boost and not vacuum too ....

measuring oil pressure on a Renesis is a total waste, especially when you haven't even bothered to measure fuel pressure yet ...



.

Shit that reminds me of another gauge, would it be bad to measure fuel pressure off of the same "T" that feeds the nitrous?

good luck finding a step-up resistor :P i kid..

deoending on sensor power requirements you could use simple resistors to achieve 5V depending on how stable your 12V supply is. i think realistically a voltage regulator is gonna be easiest. Google data sheets or diagrams for LM317(iirc off the top of my head this is a regulator and VERY easy to setup)

if you guys decide you are REALLY serious about making this work, i can draw up what you need and even break it down barney style for ya for your 5V power source. Maybe even something for your units that dont have a 0-5V output. lemme think about that one for a bit

I am serious and Barney style works for me :)

good luck finding a step-up resistor :P i kid..

depending on sensor power requirements you could use simple resistors to achieve 5V depending on how stable your 12V supply is. i think realistically a voltage regulator is gonna be easiest. Google data sheets or diagrams for LM317(iirc off the top of my head this is a regulator and VERY easy to setup)

if you guys decide you are REALLY serious about making this work, i can draw up what you need and even break it down barney style for ya for your 5V power source. Maybe even something for your units that dont have a 0-5V output. lemme think about that one for a bit

I'll cancel my beach excursion with a delicious European fashion model and work on it this weekend.

Sorry, it's a "pull-up" resistor as in the "circuit diagram" on this pdf:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/info/30-2011_1.pdf

I want to make a step-by-step example of taking some random resistive temp sensor, determining the value of "R pullup", calibrating it, and getting the calibration into the Goodbox. (One has mechanical-types and electrical-types. What's trivial for one is rocket science to the other and vice-versa.)

Yes I think one could also use the 14.x or so car voltage to drive it, but that's not always stable. At the current required, a 12V-5V converter should be cheap and give better results.

To summarize the options in one place:

(a) If one has a gauge that already has a 0-5V (often called datalogging) output and wants to keep that gauge, getting the signal into the goodbox is trivial - you only have to enter the calibration formula.

(b) If one has a standard gauge without such an output and wants to keep that gauge, and additionally, in the range of operation of that gauge, the wire-from-the-sensor voltage falls in the 0-5V range, it's a variation on the case above.

(c) If one wants to get a signal from a normal (resistive) sensor into the Goodbox without any additional gauge, then you have to get a source of power and add an appropriate resistor in parallel with the sensor to get a signal that falls into the 0-5V range.

(d) If you want to measure pressure using the goodbox without any additional gauge one has the option of buying a "special" sender that has a built-in 0-5V output; it will still require its own power though.

Shit that reminds me of another gauge, would it be bad to measure fuel pressure off of the same "T" that feeds the nitrous?

Uh, I hope you don't mean t-ing the fuel line into the nitrous bottle :SHOCKED:.

Since there are only the two inputs, getting more signals in would require a separate switch to get them into those inputs. Of course one could do that, but each input can take only one calibration curve. Switching between oil pressure and temperature for the same analogue input wouldn't make sense because their calibrations are going to be very different. However, and I'm tempted to do this, if one shared the same type, as in exactly the same type of sensor on one input, that's very doable. For example, switching between a water temp and an oil temp.

If you had exactly the same sensor for both nitrous and fuel, that could be switched, but (always a but ...), fuel is 0-70psi and nitrous is 0-1000 psi. To get the same calibration, you'd have to use identical sensors. Measuring 50 psi with a 0-1000 psi sender is not going to be very accurate.

(Too bad OBD-II doesn't include a requirement requiring inclusion of nitrous pressure information.)

Too bad it only has boost and not vacuum too ....

measuring oil pressure on a Renesis is a total waste, especially when you haven't even bothered to measure fuel pressure yet ...



The boost sensor can measure vacuum too. it will read from -14psi to around +23psi

It's cool that the supplied gauge is PSIa which allows this. Physically speaking, there is no such thing as vacuum, only the absence of pressure. I will change that calibration to run from 0 to 37 psi (or 0 to 75 inHg in airplane units), assuming that's possible. That way, it measures manifold pressure, not what's called manifold vacuum.

For the street, I find oil pressure to be most useful in telling me if the engine has warmed up - it's a more sensitive indicator really than water/oil temp.

The boost sensor can measure vacuum too. it will read from -14psi to around +23psi

Being silly, if you leave it disconnected you have a barometer/altimeter... <grin>.
(http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Pressure_Conversion_Table#Elevation_to_Air_pressur e)

Or, attach it to a pitot tube, and make an airspeed indicator.........

measuring oil pressure on a Renesis is a total waste, especially when you haven't even bothered to measure fuel pressure yet

"Why is this?" he asked, hoping to learn something.

Uh, I hope you don't mean t-ing the fuel line into the nitrous bottle :SHOCKED:.

no, no, no. I meant installing the a fuel pressure sensor in the same T in the factory fuel line that supplies the nitrous system fuel.

this thread needs a good bump. No install pics yet? Mine should be installed on Monday

my install pics are on the last page..

car gets dropped off at the body shop monday. wont get this installed unit late this week possibly early next week

Was going to do it yesterday, but the external temp gauge on my truck was displaying 111 degF and I just couldn't get motivated enough to deal with that

highflight/9krpm: i havent forgotten this yet... i am thinking on it. right now my head is wrapped around OpAmps for current to voltage conversion. i'll get back when i have a better mindset on it

highflight/9krpm: i havent forgotten this yet... i am thinking on it. right now my head is wrapped around OpAmps for current to voltage conversion. i'll get back when i have a better mindset on it

No Problem; I think I've got a $1.59 solution - maybe $5 with box, resistor, and connectors.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599#tabsetBasic

i realize its only a buck and a half, but thats ridiculous. shouldnt cost more than 50 cents, typical rat shak. i would still use the LM317 personally, but thats because i like its thermal properties and i have a few of them laying around... plus the fact that i mentioned it already ;)

i think realistically a voltage regulator is gonna be easiest. Google data sheets or diagrams for LM317

mine came in Friday... Not sure when I'll get to installing it but I realized I have a real problem.

I already have an analog boost gauge, along with oil pressure, and oil temp.

So lets say I move my boost to the Goodbox... WTF am I going to put in my RB ashtray mount where my current boost gauge is?

For that matter, WTF am I going to put my goodbox? I was thinking glove box, but I like the idea of it being accessible. Also considering center console... hmm...

i realize its only a buck and a half, but thats ridiculous. shouldnt cost more than 50 cents, typical rat shak. i would still use the LM317 personally, but thats because i like its thermal properties and i have a few of them laying around... plus the fact that i mentioned it already ;)

All good reasons. :mdrmed: The 7805 runs hot at the full output of 500 mA, but the sensors take more like 10 mA so it shouldn't be a problem. Also, there's a ratshack on every corner in the USA and if you can get past the cell phone salesman to the tiny dark corner where they have the few remaining component parts for sale, it's generally in stock.

mine came in Friday... Not sure when I'll get to installing it but I realized I have a real problem.

I already have an analog boost gauge, along with oil pressure, and oil temp.

So lets say I move my boost to the Goodbox... WTF am I going to put in my RB ashtray mount where my current boost gauge is?

For that matter, WTF am I going to put my goodbox? I was thinking glove box, but I like the idea of it being accessible. Also considering center console... hmm...

You could fill the holes with small cans of Red Bull.

Here's a little sweet surprise I was waiting to reveal until later. With much hacking along the hidden sides of the coin holder, the Goodbox fits snugly but neatly in the coin tray. You can open the tray to see and manipulate the buttons, and close it to hide it entirely. The supplied harness is long enough to reach, though you have to extend the power lines a little to reach the cigar lighter wires in the center console. I'll put up pics tomorrow sometime, since several people are in the install phase.

You could fill the holes with small cans of Red Bull.

Here's a little sweet surprise I was waiting to reveal until later. With much hacking along the hidden sides of the coin holder, the Goodbox fits snugly but neatly in the coin tray. You can open the tray to see and manipulate the buttons, and close it to hide it entirely. The supplied harness is long enough to reach, though you have to extend the power lines a little to reach the cigar lighter wires in the center console. I'll put up pics tomorrow sometime, since several people are in the install phase.

^................ I was wondering if it would fit over there and if the cables would be long enough without having to lengthen them.
Good.......can't wait to see the pics. :icon_tup:

mine came in Friday... Not sure when I'll get to installing it but I realized I have a real problem.

I already have an analog boost gauge, along with oil pressure, and oil temp.

So lets say I move my boost to the Goodbox... WTF am I going to put in my RB ashtray mount where my current boost gauge is?

For that matter, WTF am I going to put my goodbox? I was thinking glove box, but I like the idea of it being accessible. Also considering center console... hmm...

^.............this is why I'm not jumping in on this.
While I'm still NA, I do have another OBDII setup + oil as well.

My gauges aren't in the ashtray, but I'm still not giving them up! If I did, I would certainly go this route.


Wow........ShellDude, you got some figuring out to do! :dunno:
Let you know if I come up with a better idea....going to be tough. :eek:

Sweet!

well poo, i thought i was the only person to think of the coin tray

You could fill the holes with small cans of Red Bull.

Here's a little sweet surprise I was waiting to reveal until later. With much hacking along the hidden sides of the coin holder, the Goodbox fits snugly but neatly in the coin tray. You can open the tray to see and manipulate the buttons, and close it to hide it entirely. The supplied harness is long enough to reach, though you have to extend the power lines a little to reach the cigar lighter wires in the center console. I'll put up pics tomorrow sometime, since several people are in the install phase.

^................ I was wondering if it would fit over there and if the cables would be long enough without having to lengthen them.
Good.......can't wait to see the pics. :icon_tup:

well poo, i thought i was the only person to think of the coin tray

guess i should have shared this here awhile ago. no wire extensions necessary:

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=3623400&postcount=230

I'm at my audio guy right now having it installed.

I'm at my audio guy right now having it installed.

let me know how it goes. ask if there were any issues. you actually beat me to installation cuz my car is at the body shop for a while. i got backed into

Check out Dondo's link above a few posts for a pic near or in the coin box.

The harness on the display of my 06 is different so its not working

The harness on the display of my 06 is different so its not working

OH Hell..Hang on I will check EPC to see if there are Production changes and WHEN..
Your installer "May" Find that the wires are still there in the loom, but color combinations have changed??

The harness on the display of my 06 is different so its not working

can you post pictures of the harness? The display module is the same for all 04-08 model year RX8s. It should work.

Edit: this is the picture I received from someone with an 06. Different colored plug, but the colors still match.

In the guide it shows disconnecting the harness. Mine doesn't disconnect. It might have to do with the corksport kit I have installed. Everything plugged in and powered jup the display still gave the regular start up.. no goodbox.. and then just had two partial characters in the right side

In the guide it shows disconnecting the harness. Mine doesn't disconnect. It might have to do with the corksport kit I have installed. Everything plugged in and powered jup the display still gave the regular start up.. no goodbox.. and then just had two partial characters in the right side

Oh you don't have the OEM head unit? I was never able to test with that setup.

OK for interest...Mazda did change the Dashboard Wiring Harness (there is just one large unit parts wise) at Production Date 1st October,2005.

From what I can determine the changes were done because of the Flick Blade Type Key Set (according to EPC).

I really Doubt this would have ANY influence on the area in question, but I can not confirm there were no changes in middle dash area of this wiring loom change.

Was hooked up as the instructions show... the aftermarket hu must be mucking things up. Oh well I knew this was a possibility

Was hooked up as the instructions show... the aftermarket hu must be mucking things up. Oh well I knew this was a possibility

Too bad you aren't local, I could hook up my analyzer and see what is going on.

it's weird that the goodbox connects after everything, you'd think it wouldn't cause an issue. But this is so beyond my wheelhouse I just had to take my installers word for it

it's weird that the goodbox connects after everything, you'd think it wouldn't cause an issue. But this is so beyond my wheelhouse I just had to take my installers word for it

It still relies on the Head Unit for some signals. Since I don't know how closely the after market kits act like the OEM HU, I wasn't sure if it would work.

Mine has arrived, good job on quick delivery to Aus!

The earliest I'll be able to get in to see my car guy is Thursday-week.

Hopefully he'll be able to sort out additional senders (with some 5v adapters), but otherwise that will give me some time to get them myself.

ok... so I'm check on the coin box... it's about time I'll be able to put something (legal) in there!

Now regarding my replacement boost gauge... hmm... egt ? oh to have my problems :) :) :)

Was hooked up as the instructions show... the aftermarket hu must be mucking things up. Oh well I knew this was a possibility

this. breaks my heart. im now wondering if i should attempt to install mine or not

i replied to your PM, if you have an aftermarket HU (at least the corksport one) it won't work. I guess it's possible my box is bad. I think i'll mail it back to pieter3d tomorrow just so he can check it out.

Don't laugh when you get it, we had to shave down the sides to get it to fit into my coin holder.. so it's more "open air" then when i got it :)

It's pretty funny, when i got there i was all about "plug it in first since i'm not sure this is even going to work.. then we got to messing with where the goodbox would sit and just went all out on that... so now i have a modded goodbox, a modded coin holder... and a little spec of egg on my face lol

i replied to your PM, if you have an aftermarket HU (at least the corksport one) it won't work. I guess it's possible my box is bad. I think i'll mail it back to pieter3d tomorrow just so he can check it out.

Don't laugh when you get it, we had to shave down the sides to get it to fit into my coin holder.. so it's more "open air" then when i got it :)

It's pretty funny, when i got there i was all about "plug it in first since i'm not sure this is even going to work.. then we got to messing with where the goodbox would sit and just went all out on that... so now i have a modded goodbox, a modded coin holder... and a little spec of egg on my face lol

I highly doubt the problem is with the GOODbox. I'd be happy to check it out for you, but more than likely it is because the corksport kit isn't signaling the display like the GOODbox expects.

laythor, can you snap some pics of your setup before you mail the goodbox back. we know the kit can communicate with the display. was it wired before or after the kanatechs box? just wondering

Nick

it has to be wired after the kanatechs box.. and having done some research i'm sure that it's not the goodbox.

The goodbox is expecting to see certain signals from the factory HU that the kanatechs box is just not replicating since, in their application, it didn't need to.

I might give it to one of my fellow 8 drivers up here in NorCal (with a factory HU) and let them have some fun with it.

i know nothing of electronics, so this will make me look like an idiot, but my thinking was, the kanatechs box is getting a signal from somewhere to go to the display, if the goodbox were to be wired before this, it could take that signal...idk. i guess ill just resell it :(

^................ I was wondering if it would fit over there and if the cables would be long enough without having to lengthen them.
Good.......can't wait to see the pics. :icon_tup:

For the Goodbox alone, besides hogging out the removable part of the coin tray, all that's required is a ~3/4" hole straight back for the wire/vacuum line passthru. (The hole as shown should be ~ 1/4" further to the left). I'll get some black adhesive-backed felt later (instead of the checkerboard shelf paper). The two power lines back to the cigar lighter area may or may not have to be lengthened a little depending how you route the goodbox harness there. The hack job on the tray is kinda brutal, so I put painter's tape on the visible surface to avoid scratches. basically one slots the sides of the tray back deep enough for the tray to close. You can get the idea by looking at these pics. If one cut up into the area above the tray, one wouldn't have to go back so far, but I wanted to restrict the cutting to the tray and not alter the dash proper except for the pass thru hole which can be closed up with a hole plug to go back to stock. The box also has to sit a little turned to the outside if one does not want to cut up, so the tray can close with the goodbox inside it. The Goodbox itself doesn't need to be altered in any way to fit.

that looks a bit like my coin box now... except we kept the top edge of the box as well for some support. basically made two triagle-ish cut outs on the sides for the box to fit

On the top of the upper intake manifold right after the throttle body is a rubber "U" connecting two nipples. It's very easy to cut this line in the middle and insert a T. To pass wires from the interior to the engine compartment, I've been using the same rubber grommet in the firewall that the hood release cable passes through. (It's above and to the outside of the dead pedal.) The goodbox nipple takes 1/8" windshield washer hose just fine. Rubber washer hose has a nice wall thickness, is easy to work with, and if it should fall off, the resulting vacuum leak is likely small enough to be only an annoyance and not a disaster. Routing from the U mentioned above through the hood release cable hole and to the coin tray takes about 6 feet (buy 7 to be sure). Running it down to the ashtray area would probably take 3' more. Autozone charges about $0.70/foot plus $2 for the 3/8 to 1/8" universal tee. A normally aspirated car doesn't need an mp gauge, but it's fun and only costs ~$10 to hook up.

If you want to use the analogue inputs of the Goodbox, but don't want the vacuum/boost line, I'd suggest putting a short length of hose on the nipple anyway since it helps support the wires and strain relieve the solder connections you have to make inside the box to hook them up.

Edit 9/27/10 - Sorry, but the suggested location doesn't work! I'll post up the right location when I have time to mess with it again.

^ Cool.

that looks a bit like my coin box now... except we kept the top edge of the box as well for some support. basically made two triagle-ish cut outs on the sides for the box to fit

It's a bit tricky to keep the side "stops" intact. The back of the coin tray could be more intact, but I'd already cut my finger trying to be careful with the sides, so :Kill2::Kill2:

u still have more of this good boxes available? i want one for my 04 rx8.

u still have more of this good boxes available? i want one for my 04 rx8.

Yes, still have plenty

can you read and clear dtc's with this? or you havent add that feature yet?

can you read and clear dtc's with this? or you havent add that feature yet?

Yes it can do this. Instructions are in the manual.

Here are a few details and comments on how it went.

1) Be careful - this is not a project to be done with a pair a crimpers in one hand and a beer in the other.

2) It's easier to access the "mystery bolt" if one pulls off the panel under the steering column first. The plastic cover clips at its top, then opens down on a hinge, basically like the glovebox. Pull on the top edge until the pop-in clips release, open it, then pull it off the hinges. Underneath there's a metal panel held in by 4 screws.

3) The harness connection to the radio/AC head unit does not have to be undone. It's no problem to route the goodbox harness wires down the back of it with it still in the car. It's a good idea though to drape a clean shop rag over the face to prevent scratches.

4) The nav-equipped cars have an extra harness to run the 7" nav display. Don't confuse that with the harness running to the LED panel itself (like I did). The connector shown on page 4, panel 3 of the install instructions is white; mine (an '06) is black.

5) The fuse for the cigar lighter circuit is 15A which gives 180A of power. In the even of a short in the goodbox or gauge wiring, you definitely don't want 22 gauge wire to be seeing 180W. If you are not using the cigar plug, and only using the circuit to power the goodbox and gauges, change that fuse to something like 5A or less. If you are still using the plug, add a low current inline fuse to the goodbox and gauge power.

6) If you are planning to use the 2 analogue inputs, solder in the wires before you install it. The box is tiny, everything is packed in very close together. If you have never soldered stuff before, get someone who has to do the job for you. Like welding and paint spraying, soldering is an art. If you decide to do it yourself, start by taking out the circuit board and identifying the input points. 18 gauge wire fits the hole perfectly (though it's much heavier than electrically required). Strip about 2-3mm of insulation off the end of the wire, insert the wire into the hole from the top, secure the board bottom side up in a small vise and, using a 3rd had or similar arrangement, hold the board and wire securely in place. With a carefully tinned, small tip soldering iron, heat up the wire. When it's hot enough, a tiny bit of additional solder will flow neatly down the wire and into the hole. Let cool and inspect carefully with a magnifying glass to make sure no solder has run over to the posts for the barometer or other nearby circuits on the board. Put identifying labels on the wires, run them out next to the vacuum nipple, close up the box and you're done.

7) The male connectors which insert into the wire taps can be hard to seat fully in place. If they are not seated fully, they will fall off. I used a channel-lock type pliar to "help" the stubborn ones on. Also, as you insert the connector into the tap look through the plastic from the side to make sure the spade goes into the slot for it; the slot is narrow and if you miss, you can push the connector on, but not have the spade in the right place (don't ask me how I know this!)

Great input, Could the Good box be shipped with the wires soldered in? (Hint, Hint)

Yeah!

ha ha ha..........nice HiFlite999!

Payment sent!

Yeah!


Nice!! I'll be ordering in the next day or two :) Bday present to myself :)

do have mine. i think ill try to install it the old fashion way- beer in my hands, work in someone else's :)

do have mine. i think ill try to install it the old fashion way- beer in my hands, work in someone else's :)


Pussy :)

meh , i havent even actually read the install instructions yet:)

instructions?! Who the hell needs instructions???
c'mon Zoom, just start drinking and the rest will figure itself out once you start splicing wires.


:evil_laug

I've tried 3 sets of gauges so far: ebay special with needle display, Summit digital, and Glowshift digital. All presented problems, but the common thread related to grounding. I checked the calibration of the temperature sensor/gauges setup by heating water with the sender dipped into it and following the readings from the gauge and a seperate thermometer. I checked the oil pressure sensor/gauges by making up a Tee with the sender, an air compressor line, and an independant gauge. I won't go into all the details but the common lesson is that single-wire sensors are crap and a seperate ground wire must be run back to the gauge ground. If you have only the single signal wire run back the the gauge, maybe you'll get away with it for the temperature sensor, but you will not get an accurate reading from the pressure sensor. Connect a good multimeter (Fluke) to the engine block and to the cigar lighter ground. You will measure a slightly different resistance depending on whether the ignition is on or off and when the car is running. (Negative resisitance even!). You can also measure a small voltage between the two points. This is called a "ground loop" and it will screw up your gauge readings. The Glowshift gauges come with 2-wire sensors and that's a big plus. Run both the ground and signal wires from the sensor back to the gauge. The pic shows my "ground plane" which ties the grounds from the cigar lighter ground wire, the sensor grounds, the gauge grounds, and to the point of posting it here, the Goodbox ground together.

Conditionals:
You have a gauge already installed.
That gauge does not have seperate 0-5v (datalogger) outputs.

Then:
1) Splice into the signal wire between the gauge and the sensor.
2) Turn on the ignition (but don't start).
3) Set the goodbox to display the AUX Rawdata on the display unit using the AUX setup menu.
4) Turn ignition to "off".
5) Connect the signal wire to a Goodbox AUX input.
6) Turn ignition "on" and check the RawData value. If it's > 1000 or so, the signal voltage is over +5v. If it's reading exactly 0, it's the wrong polarity. Both cases mean the Goodbox won't work with this gauge without additional measures.
7) Next is recording the RawData reading at different gauge readings. For temperature, start the car and write down the RawData reading vs gauge reading as the car warms up. The larger the range you can sample, the better the resulting calibration will be. (My starting oil temperature was 80 deg, and I was able to get to temp of 190F just idling with the A/C on.)
8) Ignition 'off', and whip out your slide rule.

I show the process of getting the numbers required into the Goodbox in the two attachments. As a side-note, you can deduce from the data, that I haven't yet gotten proper grounding for my oil temp sensor. At the upper range of the temps, the RawData readings got noisy as the AC compressor and fans started turning on and off.

Easy right? :smoker:

This is the display with the following settings:

Full Format: xxxxxxxx000u
Full Text: OilTemp****F (where * = blank spaces)


:beerchug:

question. I am installing mine now, and I got everything in but the cig lighter wires. I have the red and black left and the cig lighter connector has a yellowish wire and a red/black wire. Just to be sure, I'm assuming the red goes to the yellowish wire? and the black wire goes to the red/black?? I want to make sure before I do anything else.

question. I am installing mine now, and I got everything in but the cig lighter wires. I have the red and black left and the cig lighter connector has a yellowish wire and a red/black wire. Just to be sure, I'm assuming the red goes to the yellowish wire? and the black wire goes to the red/black?? I want to make sure before I do anything else.

Yep, that is correct. Just like it says in the instructions!

Thanks dude!

all done, and looks great! I like the custom text. I got Display A dual with air fuel and commanded air fuel, display b as intake temp and coolant temp, and display C as calculated load and absolute load. Very nice man!

I'm planning on ordering in the next couple of days, but I just have a few questions first.

1. I dont have TPMS on my 8, so I'm assuming that the CAN wires won't be present behind the LCD. Is this correct? (I have stock nav if this makes any difference).
2. Can you explain the differences in installation if you don't have the TPMS module.
3. Would I need to connect directly to the back of the OBD II port, and could this present any problems if I plug something else into the OBD II.

Thanks

I'm planning on ordering in the next couple of days, but I just have a few questions first.

1. I dont have TPMS on my 8, so I'm assuming that the CAN wires won't be present behind the LCD. Is this correct? (I have stock nav if this makes any difference).
2. Can you explain the differences in installation if you don't have the TPMS module.
3. Would I need to connect directly to the back of the OBD II port, and could this present any problems if I plug something else into the OBD II.

Thanks

Yes, you can just tap behind the OBD2 port, the wires are the same color. This will not interfere with anything you plug into the port.

Yes, you can just tap behind the OBD2 port, the wires are the same color. This will not interfere with anything you plug into the port.

I can confirm this! the OBD2 port wires work just fine and can be reached with the wiring harness without extension of the wires.

Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.

2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*

3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.


Pieter3d:
Got the goodbox today in good shape. Thanks for shipping as we had discussed.
Good product!

^ Thanks for the info

*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*

Can you post some pictures please! :)

Can anyone tell me whether they think the following temp and pressure sensors would be appropriate? They are 3-wire and take a 5v input.

http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/TemperatureSensors/Oil
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/PressureSensors/OilAndFuel

^ Please let us know.

Can anyone tell me whether they think the following temp and pressure sensors would be appropriate? They are 3-wire and take a 5v input.

http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/TemperatureSensors/Oil
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/PressureSensors/OilAndFuel

I think they would work in principle. Both have rather strange thread sizes so you'd have to come up with an adapter. Also, the current draw for that pressure sensor is given as 7A(!) - surely they meant 7 mA, but better be sure 'cause otherwise it will take a pretty hefty power supply.

Here's an alternative:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659 (http://http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659)

AEM also has 5V temp sensors, but it's not clear if they include the pull-up resistor in the harness like your link does.

Geesh, I am ordering my good box today and I would sure like to order the oil pressure adapter too. Should I go with the AEM?

I can confirm this! the OBD2 port wires work just fine and can be reached with the wiring harness without extension of the wires.

Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.

2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*

3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.

Good product!

Cool! Sounds like it's much easier to go for the OBDII connector - unstacking the center dash to get to the TPMS is rather a PIA. The no-holes-drilled is a wise option too. Oops! Yes of course one still has to splice into the display wiring - unstacking has to happen anyway, so if you have TPMS, there's no advantage to using the OBDII port wires at all.

I can confirm this! the OBD2 port wires work just fine and can be reached with the wiring harness without extension of the wires.

Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.

2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*

3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.


Pieter3d:
Got the goodbox today in good shape. Thanks for shipping as we had discussed.
Good product!

Thanks for the tips. Pics would be good :)

Geesh, I am ordering my good box today and I would sure like to order the oil pressure adapter too. Should I go with the AEM?

That sounds best to me ... or you could wait a bit for some silly person to try it out first and see if it works. :fingersx:

Found another pressure sensor that looks as if it may be suitable

http://www.feteriscomponents.com/pdf/Pressure%20Sensors/FPEPRB-1.pdf

That sounds best to me ... or you could wait a bit for some silly person to try it out first and see if it works. :fingersx:


I have been holding out but I am very impatient :lol:

Found another pressure sensor that looks as if it may be suitable

http://www.feteriscomponents.com/pdf/Pressure%20Sensors/FPEPRB-1.pdf

Yes, except for the strange (for USA automotive) thread choices.

Ordered :)

I think they would work in principle. Both have rather strange thread sizes so you'd have to come up with an adapter. Also, the current draw for that pressure sensor is given as 7A(!) - surely they meant 7 mA, but better be sure 'cause otherwise it will take a pretty hefty power supply.

Here's an alternative:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659 (http://http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659)

AEM also has 5V temp sensors, but it's not clear if they include the pull-up resistor in the harness like your link does.

The Oil Temp Sensor of HwAoRrDk from Race Tech Looks Identical to the OEM Coolant Temp Sensor behind your Water Pump, that is also a 3 Pin...

http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/TemperatureSensors/Oil

Mazda part number...B593-18-840A Sensor (DENSO) $31.33

The Oil Temp Sensor of HwAoRrDk from Race Tech Looks Identical to the OEM Coolant Temp Sensor behind your Water Pump, that is also a 3 Pin...

http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/TemperatureSensors/Oil

Mazda part number...B593-18-840A Sensor (DENSO) $31.33

Does that imply that the car already has a source of +5VDC power built in? If so, it could save the cost and time of making one's own power supply.

Does that imply that the car already has a source of +5VDC power built in? If so, it could save the cost and time of making one's own power supply.

Sorry..My Bad...I am wrong...

The B593 Coolant Temp Sensor for ALL RX-8's is a 2 Pin not 3...I was getting confused with the OIL Pressure Sensor for the Series 2...That is a 3 PIN (N3R1-18-541)..

See pics..sorry about the Blur..You have to trust me the S2 OP Sensor has 3 pins, it measures Oil Pressure at #1 EMOP, Range from 7 to 21 PSI...and NO I do not know Voltage...sorry.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160092&stc=1&d=1280377210

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160093&stc=1&d=1280377210

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160094&stc=1&d=1280377210

For the Goodbox alone, besides hogging out the removable part of the coin tray, all that's required is a ~3/4" hole straight back for the wire/vacuum line passthru. (The hole as shown should be ~ 1/4" further to the left). I'll get some black adhesive-backed felt later (instead of the checkerboard shelf paper). The two power lines back to the cigar lighter area may or may not have to be lengthened a little depending how you route the goodbox harness there. The hack job on the tray is kinda brutal, so I put painter's tape on the visible surface to avoid scratches. basically one slots the sides of the tray back deep enough for the tray to close. You can get the idea by looking at these pics. If one cut up into the area above the tray, one wouldn't have to go back so far, but I wanted to restrict the cutting to the tray and not alter the dash proper except for the pass thru hole which can be closed up with a hole plug to go back to stock. The box also has to sit a little turned to the outside if one does not want to cut up, so the tray can close with the goodbox inside it. The Goodbox itself doesn't need to be altered in any way to fit.

Great stuff HiFlite999....

Still in the planning phase here. I'll probably follow your lead on tapping into the IM like you show, just cause it looks so simple.... even with my existing boost gauge.

For those using the coin box, has anyone considered hacking the Goodbox rather than the coin box? I haven't sized them up myself yet but am considering hacking the sides of the GB rather than the CB. My only fear is that the GB circuit board needs the extra clearance by cutting out the sides of the CB... if that's the case perhaps all that is needed is a 10mm slit on each side that the GB board can snap into.

pieter3d, would you be willing to send me an empty GB case in case i frak mine up?

So basically I can tap all the wires at the OBD-II port?

I think just the two that would otherwise tap into the TPMS, 9krpmrx8.

I think just the two that would otherwise tap into the TPMS, 9krpmrx8.

My bad! :uh: You still have to hook up the display unit which means unstacking the center dash anyway. If you have the TPMS, there's no advantage to using the OBDII wires really.

Oh, okay.

Does that imply that the car already has a source of +5VDC power built in? If so, it could save the cost and time of making one's own power supply.

I think that the MAF/Intake Air Temp sensors run from a 5VDC source. If this helps.

I think I've found some sensor modules that would be perfect for use with the GOODBox. Let me know what you think.

http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html

I think I've found some sensor modules that would be perfect for use with the GOODBox. Let me know what you think.

http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html

Those should work, there are a few of us that run these. (but not with the GOODbox yet)

^ any install pics?

So I would like to get the wires soldered for the aux inputs, do you guys have any ideas where I could get this done properly? Can any post a pic of how this is supposed to look?

^ what no electronics friends? ;)

No, I mean some of the guys have some skills but I don't know if they could do this, it's kind of a one shot deal I don't want any screwing up the Good Box. Can someone tell me what size/type wire I should buy?

here's a question for you goodbox owners:

twice now i've seen the garbled flickering display. once was the morning after install and it lasted for that trip and went again for the last few weeks. the second was yesterday after some quick turning and accelerating onto a highway from a dead stop. i turned the car off and on a couple times and it went away.

I thought loose connection but why would it stop happening after a couple power cycles? No, I have not taken it apart yet to look at the connections. ;)

Hmmm, I will let you know if I have any issues with it.

No, I mean some of the guys have some skills but I don't know if they could do this, it's kind of a one shot deal I don't want any screwing up the Good Box. Can someone tell me what size/type wire I should buy?


The wire should be long enough......if you do solder them...make sure you immobilize the soldered areas...they tend to vibrate and break if they are rattling around

If you can pull the pins from the OBD connector to solder them..you can use proper heat shrink on the connections..otherwise you are stuck with tape :(

@Hiflight and others, sorry for dropping the ball on you guys with the electrical stuff. work got temporarily insane, and my interests have shifted entirely with the plans to swap the 8 for the bike. but it looks like you guys are all working things out anyway :)

No, I mean some of the guys have some skills but I don't know if they could do this, it's kind of a one shot deal I don't want any screwing up the Good Box. Can someone tell me what size/type wire I should buy?

Post #156, Item (6) = 18 gauge. As I said, electrically, it's much larger than what is needed, but it give a mechanically solid joint. Pick a color that's not red or black. There's really only one way to do it, but I'll put up a pic in a couple days when I have an excuse to take the box out again.

i had the same issues as dondo. It looked like a damn slot machine at a casino with the thing scrolling and all messed up. It took a while for it to get back to normal. I had to unplug the harness from the box and then plug it back in.

Post #156, Item (6) = 18 gauge. As I said, electrically, it's much larger than what is needed, but it give a mechanically solid joint. Pick a color that's not red or black. There's really only one way to do it, but I'll put up a pic in a couple days when I have an excuse to take the box out again.


Thank you sir. Just wanna give someone a visual so they don't screw it up.

Okay, those two Race-Tech Bosch sensors are actually waaay expensive, so I think I will go with the AEM sensors posted previously, because I found a retailer here in the UK that does them for a reasonable price (along with an appropriate oil filter sandwich plate).

I consulted with my father, who is a retired electronics engineer, about the best way to: a) get a 5V supply for the sensors, and b) transform the temp. sensor's resistance into a 0-5V output.

For the 5V supply, he suggested a common 1-amp 7805 regulator, which should be overkill for the draw even from both temp and pressure sensors (AEM say their pressure sensor is rated for 6mA, and the temp. sensor should similarly be mA draw). No heatsink required, either. :)

For the temperature sensor, according to the temp->ohms table (http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/info/30-2011_2.pdf) given, if we use a 1K pull-down resistor (for that sensor, resistance is inverse to temp), it should work out to about 0.5V output at 0C and 4.8V output at 150C. He said you could futz around with combinations of smaller-valued resistors (or even an op-amp), but that seems like too much trouble.

One suggestion he had was that the pull-down resistor could be wired-up completely inside the GOODbox, between the ground pin of the box's connector and the relevant aux. connection. Perhaps ran on the underside of the board, heatshrink-wrapped to avoid shorting. Good idea?

In fact, I thought, why not go the whole hog, and run the 7805 off the voltage supply pin coming into the GOODbox, and feed the 5V lines out from the GOODbox. Of course, this is assuming the input supply to the box is 12V... is it? Which pin?

If this all seems okay, I might go ahead and order my GOODbox this week. :D:

Okay, those two Race-Tech Bosch sensors are actually waaay expensive, so I think I will go with the AEM sensors posted previously, because I found a retailer here in the UK that does them for a reasonable price (along with an appropriate oil filter sandwich plate).

I consulted with my father, who is a retired electronics engineer, about the best way to: a) get a 5V supply for the sensors, and b) transform the temp. sensor's resistance into a 0-5V output.

For the 5V supply, he suggested a common 1-amp 7805 regulator, which should be overkill for the draw even from both temp and pressure sensors (AEM say their pressure sensor is rated for 6mA, and the temp. sensor should similarly be mA draw). No heatsink required, either. :)

For the temperature sensor, according to the temp->ohms table (http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/info/30-2011_2.pdf) given, if we use a 1K pull-down resistor (for that sensor, resistance is inverse to temp), it should work out to about 0.5V output at 0C and 4.8V output at 150C. He said you could futz around with combinations of smaller-valued resistors (or even an op-amp), but that seems like too much trouble.

One suggestion he had was that the pull-down resistor could be wired-up completely inside the GOODbox, between the ground pin of the box's connector and the relevant aux. connection. Perhaps ran on the underside of the board, heatshrink-wrapped to avoid shorting. Good idea?

In fact, I thought, why not go the whole hog, and run the 7805 off the voltage supply pin coming into the GOODbox, and feed the 5V lines out from the GOODbox. Of course, this is assuming the input supply to the box is 12V... is it? Which pin?

If this all seems okay, I might go ahead and order my GOODbox this week. :D:

There's not much room in the box. It's not clear to me yet, but the pull down may be included within the sensor or supplied wiring harness itself for the AEM oil pressure sensor. The temp sensors I think can be of the el-cheapo variety with your own resistor added. I wouldn't try it in the goodbox itself though.

i had the same issues as dondo. It looked like a damn slot machine at a casino with the thing scrolling and all messed up. It took a while for it to get back to normal. I had to unplug the harness from the box and then plug it back in.

wonder what that is about..

Could someone who's n/a with a vac/pressure line to monitor mp please let me know how well the goodbox boost gauge is performing (refresh rate and whether the readings seems accurate).

Also, are the guys with screen problems running additional gauges to the aux inputs?, and has anyone had the goodbox installed for a while and not had any issues with the display?.

It's new, there are bound to be bugs but I trust the OP will fix an issues that arise. No one has really had the item a long time though.

yeah and it's not a big deal to power cycle the unit/car. just curious as to whether i screwed something up and have a loose connection. ;) guess i should take a look anyway.

i don't have any aux inputs btw

I will let you know if I have that issue when I receive mine and install it.

Could someone who's n/a with a vac/pressure line to monitor mp please let me know how well the goodbox boost gauge is performing (refresh rate and whether the readings seems accurate).

Also, are the guys with screen problems running additional gauges to the aux inputs?, and has anyone had the goodbox installed for a while and not had any issues with the display?.

My car has been trapped in the garage for almost a month while the city is taking its time repaving the street, so I'm kinda stuck for the moment. However, in programming the aux input, I ran into an issue (which included at least a variation of the "slot machine" described above). Since I could reliably make this happen, I recorded the details and sent them to Pieter. He said he found a potential problem in the code, so I sent my box in for a reprogrammed flash. It should be back in a couple days and I'll repeat the trigger sequence and see if it fixed that problem - then report the results to him.

I'm confident that these teething pains can be dealt with. My day job involves what is essentially a giant goodbox with 20,000 Aux inputs. It's very hard for a programmer to anticipate all the variables which occur in the field. Pieter's been very responsive so far in what I've given as feedback, so I'm anticipating this will be sorted out soon.

Cool. I think he already shipped mine though.

Cool. I think he already shipped mine though.

you can do the whole install though and then just unplug the box and ship it back to him if you want to reflash it..

you can do the whole install though and then just unplug the box and ship it back to him if you want to reflash it..


Cool. Maybe when I send it back he can solder the aux wires in and setup the sensors too :) :lol:

haha good plan!

next week i'll buy one....

Hi guys, I just had mine installed last week, and I'm reasonably happy so far. EDIT: Australian model.

It was significantly more difficult than the instructions showed for a RHD model with no TPMS unit. I wish I could say that I did it myself, but I handed it off to my mechanic so I didn't break anything.

I'm looking at hooking up an aux sensor within a few weeks, but for the moment just happy with original data.

I have had the garbled screen twice so far in the last week (of probably a dozen drives). Taking the key out and trying again can get rid of it, but not always.

The AFR coming from the ECU seems meaningless at a near constant 14.7, but this is probably more to do with how my Microtech is controlling the second injectors, as opposed to actual fueling.

Finally, I'm not sure I'm zeroing correctly for the boost gauge. If I set it to 0 with the engine off, it will rangfe from -10 to say +3 psi while driving. If I set it at idle, it will go down to -2.5 when engine breaking and up to 12ish at full boost. The second seems more correct to get an idea of "extra" boost provided by the turbo, but it seems odd that at idle the absolute pressure is only 1/4 of the normal atmosphere pressure (-10 psi = -0.75 bar relative to outside).

Comments on the last item would be great, and updated firmware for the garbled input would be even better, although postage will become a killer.

for those of us that already had ours... is the slot machine issue something we should be concerned about? Do I need to ship mine back for a firmware update? tsk tsk we didn't push for a simple uart or pl2303 for hot firmware flashing :) :) :)

pieter let me know the best course of action. I can play russian roulette if that is what its going to amount to.. just say the word!

Shell

Great stuff HiFlite999....


pieter3d, would you be willing to send me an empty GB case in case i frak mine up?

I am all out of fresh boxes, but the box I used is a customized Hammond 1551K. You can buy those on digikey for $2, but you'll have to dremel out holes for the buttons yourself.

Hmm, I guess I should hold off buying mine if there is a firmware update to be implemented.

Actually, thinking about this, how difficult would it be to re-flash the GOODbox? Is it a question of having the correct cable and software on your PC? I am wondering if it is a DIY job, because buying a serial cable might be cheaper than actually shipping to box back. :)

Hmm, I guess I should hold off buying mine if there is a firmware update to be implemented.

Actually, thinking about this, how difficult would it be to re-flash the GOODbox? Is it a question of having the correct cable and software on your PC? I am wondering if it is a DIY job, because buying a serial cable might be cheaper than actually shipping to box back. :)

I use this device for programming: http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=3353

It can be found online at various retailers for around $30. Then all you need is WinAVR to upload the correct firmware files. If anyone wants to play with this, PM me and I'll explain the details.

At the moment I do not have any updates to implement. The upgrade HiFlite999 mentioned is already complete, and is on all new GOODboxes, including those shipped last week. It resolves a possible corruption in the saved data regarding the AUX inputs, it is likely that you won't run into it at all. If you ordered earlier and are using AUX inputs and are experiencing issues with programming the AUX text, you can send it to me for the firmware fix.

Okay, cool. You have my order. :)

Finally, I'm not sure I'm zeroing correctly for the boost gauge. If I set it to 0 with the engine off, it will rangfe from -10 to say +3 psi while driving. If I set it at idle, it will go down to -2.5 when engine breaking and up to 12ish at full boost. The second seems more correct to get an idea of "extra" boost provided by the turbo, but it seems odd that at idle the absolute pressure is only 1/4 of the normal atmosphere pressure (-10 psi = -0.75 bar relative to outside).

Comments on the last item would be great, and updated firmware for the garbled input would be even better, although postage will become a killer.

Aaargh! Saving you most of a long rant on the subject, I hate the way car people thing of MP/vacuum. Physically, there is no vacuum, only lower pressure! Airplanes are set up so that with the engine off, it simply reads the outside pressure. At sea level this is ~30"Hg (14.7 psi) with the engine off. Start the engine and at idle it reads ~10"Hg (5 psi). From then on, your power output is roughly proportional to the manifold pressure, "boosted" or not. For n.a. full throttle gives ~28" (14psi). For turboed, it gives ~40" (20 psi). Roughly, the lower the number, the lower the power, the higher the number, the higher the power.

Car people however reset the true zero to -14.7psi, sorta. The 'sorta' is that this method depends on what the air density is when you push the zero button. Push it at sea level on a standard day (barometer setting of 29.92"Hg). Engine off it reads zero. Now drive to Pikes Peak and shut off the engine; it now reads about -5 psi. Sliding the zero around this way makes everything unnecessarily confusing, and changes what "boost" means depending on the outside air density. "Boost" doesn't matter! Only the pressure in the intake manifold matters, not vacuum. (And the pressure only matters because it's roughly proportional to MAF which is the number that really matters.)

If you want the gauge to behave in a way consistent with the automobile world, zero it with the engine off.

Autoworld: -14.7..............(vacuum)........0......(boost).. .....+10

Skyworld: 0....................(pressure)..................+ 25

Just a thought regarding the "slot machine" effect to those who've experienced it.

Was your A/C on at the time?

^ yeah probably...

i am all out of fresh boxes, but the box i used is a customized hammond 1551k. You can buy those on digikey for $2, but you'll have to dremel out holes for the buttons yourself.

nice!

I use this device for programming: http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=3353

It can be found online at various retailers for around $30. Then all you need is WinAVR to upload the correct firmware files. If anyone wants to play with this, PM me and I'll explain the details.

At the moment I do not have any updates to implement. The upgrade HiFlite999 mentioned is already complete, and is on all new GOODboxes, including those shipped last week. It resolves a possible corruption in the saved data regarding the AUX inputs, it is likely that you won't run into it at all. If you ordered earlier and are using AUX inputs and are experiencing issues with programming the AUX text, you can send it to me for the firmware fix.

heh... you mean $300 !!!

Pieter, have you not experienced any display problems with your install?

heh... you mean $300 !!!
Nope. Example: http://www.ecrater.com/p/5955260/avr-isp-mkii
Pieter, have you not experienced any display problems with your install?

I have seen the garbled display maybe twice, but I didn't see it until after I started production. I of course immediately tried to get it to do it again, but no luck. Very difficult to debug something like that. Powercycling the GOODbox solves it, but that could point to any number of causes. I will continue to see if I can pinpoint the cause.

Could the scrambled screen be caused by a fluctuation in the power supply??

Could the scrambled screen be caused by a fluctuation in the power supply??

It is possible, although there are sizeable capacitors on the board to mask this. And even then, when the power stabilizes, it should work like normal, since the data just passes through. Because the powercycle fixes it, it is clearly some kind of state it gets into on powerup.

Are you still enjoying the project Pieter, or is it getting to be a PITA?

I'm still amazed with what you've accomplished, and in such a short period of time.

Are you still enjoying the project Pieter, or is it getting to be a PITA?

I'm still amazed with what you've accomplished, and in such a short period of time.

If anything, it has been quite educational. I am always scared of updates to this thread, hoping I didn't screw up anyone's car haha. :scared:

Hey being an innovator is not an easy task. I look forward to your future endeavors.

^ Couldn't agree more.

Nope. Example: http://www.ecrater.com/p/5955260/avr-isp-mkii

Just picked it up... $29 shipping.... but no biggy... the kits linked from the manufaturers page were all in the $300 range. Thanks!

Just picked it up... $29 shipping.... but no biggy... the kits linked from the manufaturers page were all in the $300 range. Thanks!

Those are probably not just the programmer, but also the prototyping board.

How about reading the fuel economy averages? LOL :P

By the way, Pieter, any idea how long international shipping is likely to take? Days? Weeks?

Got mine last night :)

By the way, Pieter, any idea how long international shipping is likely to take? Days? Weeks?

I think that I ordered mine just before 9krpmrx8 ordered his (on wednesday). I assume that they were shipped at the same time, but I'm still waiting :( I'm in Wales

San Antonio is a lot closer than Cardiff :)

I think that I ordered mine just before 9krpmrx8 ordered his (on wednesday). I assume that they were shipped at the same time, but I'm still waiting :( I'm in Wales

I think it takes about a week.

I think it takes about a week.

Unfortunately, I'll probably have to sell the car to pay the exorbitant customs charges :squint: