I realize people post up dumb threads all the time. And this is no exception really, but what else is a forum for? I definitely need some help with what to spend my money on. I've searched around but feel that everyone has their own situation so it didn't help much. So here's mine:

I told myself I was only going to spend $2500 on modifications with my deployment money. I have already purchased some Stance coilovers and a few other things. So if you were in my shoes and had a little over $1500 to spend on stuff for the best car ever, what would ya buy?? :)

My current mods
HKS Legamax
RP Supercat
Stance GR+ Coilovers
CF Trunk
Mazdaspeed Rear Strut Bar
Yellow Fogs and LEDs all over

Thanks, Ryan

Body kit? :yesnod:

Or some light weight wheels

black halo ignition coils: $485
black halo mid pipe: $425
mazda maniac tuned access port: $594
total: $1504

gotta get some wheels for your car bro first thing ppl look at when they do the double take

great start! the legamax exhaust and stance gr+ coilovers are quality parts
like reddozen said the bhr ignition and tuned accessport are good next steps
or some good lightweight wheels, but that can easily run you more than $1500

black halo ignition coils: $485
black halo mid pipe: $425
mazda maniac tuned access port: $594
total: $1504

+1
booooyaaaaa

Take the MM AP tuning seminar if you can

You need wheels. Like Red Fox said, they're the first things people look at when judging a car. You might even want to save up another $500 or so just to make sure you get exactly what you want. Wheels are usually one of the larger investments that 8 owners around here make and you don't want to jew yourself out with cheap wheels; you'll regret it.

If wheels are absolutely not an option right now, then I'd spend that money on lots of little things instead of larger things, just to get them out of the way. Clear corners, window tint, lowering springs, eyelids, and maybe an aftermarket lip/spoiler to name a few.

BHR ignition
AP MM Tune
Sway Bars

While I could definitely buy some lightweight wheels with tires for $1500, I think I'd want to wait until I got more money than that to get some real good quality, lightweight wheels. Plus it's not like the 8's wheels are bad... they're lightweight, good looking and already on the car. As an 8 owner, we get tired of seeing them but I still get compliments from a ton of people on them.

What kind of sway bars do you guys recommend? I've done some looking around online and they all seem to be just about the same. The progress are adjustable so those sound like a decent choice. Any opinions?

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. It's so hard to spend money when there's so many different things to buy :cool:

Are you after handling or after freeing some power? :)
Progress tech sway bars are a great option handling wise but may be overkill for you since they're adjustable etc.
As somebody else suggested, if you are after some power increase the bhr ignition\midpipe + accessport combo sounds sweet too :)

AP, Short Shifter

Save the rest for when you want more power....go big or go home. But the AP at this point is basically a requirement.

Short Shifter
Forgot all about this one. I'm still stock so I have no idea what it's like, but I've read nothing but great things about the AFE short shifter. I've read so many comments that are along the lines of "must have" or "perfect first mod", and "the way the 8 should've felt when stock". It's not very expensive, either. I'd definitely get this.

racing beat ecu flash
gauges
keep the oem sways with those stiff coilovers you have
cooling mods--i am partial to a secondary radiator set up and mazmarts water pump/thermostat
racing beats ecu flash turns the fans on earier
performance alignment and corner weighted
mazmarts oil pressure regulator
oil filter relocation kit
replace factory air filter with a better flowing one or the mazdaspeed/aem cai--no other
you will still have money left over?
OD

TeamRX8 said the racing beat flash actually made less power than the stock flash.

Cobb AP, BHR Ignition, BHR Midpipe +1

racing beat ecu flash
gauges
keep the oem sways with those stiff coilovers you have
cooling mods--i am partial to a secondary radiator set up and mazmarts water pump/thermostat
racing beats ecu flash turns the fans on earier
performance alignment and corner weighted
mazmarts oil pressure regulator
oil filter relocation kit
replace factory air filter with a better flowing one or the mazdaspeed/aem cai--no other
you will still have money left over?
OD

You dont like the RB Revi?

rb intake is ok for what it is. i dont like it because with the cai option---its expensive and i dont like k&N air filters at all. and even with the cai option--the filter itself will get heat soaked after many short slow drives.
rb flash makes less power than oem?--better check again.
individual tune versus cobb may make a very little bit more--but look at the time and expense in getting there for what --maybe 3-5 more hp? Not worth it in my opion in this type build.
cobb is good, individual tune is good--but thats not what the op is asking for?
rather take the extra money for other stuff like gauges and cooling.

rb intake is ok for what it is. i dont like it because with the cai option---its expensive and i dont like k&N air filters at all. and even with the cai option--the filter itself will get heat soaked after many short slow drives.
rb flash makes less power than oem?--better check again.
individual tune versus cobb may make a very little bit more--but look at the time and expense in getting there for what --maybe 3-5 more hp? Not worth it in my opion in this type build.
cobb is good, individual tune is good--but thats not what the op is asking for?
rather take the extra money for other stuff like gauges and cooling.

I thought the RB kit uses a dry air filter? It is a moot point, anyway, as we all know the OEM intake is pretty friggin' good.
"Individual tune" versus Cobb? From MazdaManiac the Cobb IS an individual tune and about as close to custom as one can get.
The OP is implicitly asking all of us for suggestions on mods that will offer the greatest value for the buck, not all of which are power-related gains. Coincidentally, the BHR Ignition System and Cobb AP from MazdaManiac address several issues at the same time (simultaneous improvements in power, reliability, longevity) which is why they have been suggested more than ony other mods in this thread.

Colossal jewels............

rb intake is ok for what it is. i dont like it because with the cai option---its expensive and i dont like k&N air filters at all. and even with the cai option--the filter itself will get heat soaked after many short slow drives.

why would you replace the RB filter with k&n?


rb flash makes less power than oem?--better check again.
ok, checking... yep, RB flash is still best for early fans and little else


individual tune versus cobb may make a very little bit more--but look at the time and expense in getting there for what --maybe 3-5 more hp? Not worth it in my opion in this type build.
higher OMP output makes it a great addon for any car
and the ability to be retuned for anything else you do to your car later on is another plus.


cobb is good, individual tune is good--but thats not what the op is asking for?
rather take the extra money for other stuff like gauges and cooling.


OP was asking what to spend money on, all these things cost money :smoker:

To the OP:

For looks alone (lower the car, clear sides markers, body kit, wheels, etc etc etc)

For performance (BHR coil kit, BHR midpipe, MazdaManiac AP, AEM/MS CAI, Lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed front and rear strut tower bars.)

recaro spg bucket with low mounting rails and a 6pt harness, best 1100 i've ever spent

TeamRX8 said the racing beat flash actually made less power than the stock flash.

Cobb AP, BHR Ignition, BHR Midpipe +1

Cobb AP and BHR Ignition seem like necessities from what everyone is saying. Definitely putting that on the list of possibles/most likely will buy. As far as a midpipe, I already have the RP Supercat so I don't think I'll be needing that.

rb intake is ok for what it is. i dont like it because with the cai option---its expensive and i dont like k&N air filters at all. and even with the cai option--the filter itself will get heat soaked after many short slow drives.
rb flash makes less power than oem?--better check again.
individual tune versus cobb may make a very little bit more--but look at the time and expense in getting there for what --maybe 3-5 more hp? Not worth it in my opion in this type build.
cobb is good, individual tune is good--but thats not what the op is asking for?
rather take the extra money for other stuff like gauges and cooling.

I agree. CAI on the 8 I believe is pointless for the gains you get, being the price it is. We basically already have a CAI setup on the stock intake.

I thought the RB kit uses a dry air filter? It is a moot point, anyway, as we all know the OEM intake is pretty friggin' good.
"Individual tune" versus Cobb? From MazdaManiac the Cobb IS an individual tune and about as close to custom as one can get.
The OP is implicitly asking all of us for suggestions on mods that will offer the greatest value for the buck, not all of which are power-related gains. Coincidentally, the BHR Ignition System and Cobb AP from MazdaManiac address several issues at the same time (simultaneous improvements in power, reliability, longevity) which is why they have been suggested more than ony other mods in this thread.

Colossal jewels............

Very very true. Stock intake is so efficient as is. I think the only reason I would get another intake is for the sound. There is so little gain of HP from it and to me 2 hp is not worth $300+. There is a mod in the DIY forum that modifies the stock intake for better flow which is about the best you can get. FOR FREE.

Correct. Not too many NA mods can do much, as this whole forum has gone over many times.




higher OMP output makes it a great addon for any car
and the ability to be retuned for anything else you do to your car later on is another plus.

To the OP:

For looks alone (lower the car, clear sides markers, body kit, wheels, etc etc etc)

For performance (BHR coil kit, BHR midpipe, MazdaManiac AP, AEM/MS CAI, Lightweight flywheel, mazdaspeed front and rear strut tower bars.)

Yes, endless power combinations are definitely a big plus. Cobb AP is on the Must Buy list.

Lowered the car; clear corners are way over rated but may pick some up anyway; body kit is probably not something I'm getting anytime soon, I like the clean look of the 8 so maybe just an OEM Aero Kit; wheels are coming after my next deployment next year. Big Money = Nice rims.

Coil kit is on the list; got a midpipe already; AP a definite; CAI no thanks; Lightweight flywheel when the clutch goes; got the strut tower bars, forgot I had them actually. :lol:

recaro spg bucket with low mounting rails and a 6pt harness, best 1100 i've ever spent

Sounds like a nice mod but I don't think I'd have a need for that as I don't track my car ever. Just street driving.




Thanks for all the input guys, greatly appreciated. If anyone has any more ideas, definitely post em up!

Ryan

Ryan, I would say you have a solid understanding of where you need/want to go with your car and no longer need input from we knuckleheads. :lol2:

Make sure to also address the weak clutch pedal issue and you are all set.

Coil kit is on the list;

Ryan

do be careful when getting coilovers.. for street driving they're overrated and to run right good ones will require some fine tuning that a lot of guys never bother to do.
Springs/damper combo are an excellent choice over coilovers.

why would you replace the RB filter with k&n?

k&n makes the filter for the racing beat kit

so they do.. mah bad

http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm

Ryan, I would say you have a solid understanding of where you need/want to go with your car and no longer need input from we knuckleheads. :lol2:

Make sure to also address the weak clutch pedal issue and you are all set.

Definitely know what I want in the long run, just want to double check on all the necessities and things that will help longevity of the car now so I don't have to worry so much down the road.

I will also look into the clutch bracket, does only one company sell it? If not, who has the best/cheapest?

do be careful when getting coilovers.. for street driving they're overrated and to run right good ones will require some fine tuning that a lot of guys never bother to do.
Springs/damper combo are an excellent choice over coilovers.

Yeah I realize it's probably over kill but I figure go big or go home. :cool: The Stance GR+ seem like a good quality coilover that I won't have to worry about shitting the bed. I currently have Eibach springs on the car with stock shocks and have been running that setup for around 30k miles so I know the shocks are probably just about done. I also do not like the uneven look of the drop from the Eibach springs. So I figured to get the drop I want, I'd need to buy both, different springs and new shocks. For a few hundred more, I got coilovers instead so I can make sure I get the drop I want. I know I'll have different wheel setups down the road so I figure the coilovers will come in handy in case I ever need to adjust.

Thanks again,
Ryan :smoker:

caught me again---!!! I meant to say an individual tune PER cobb unit. I plead old age, bifocals's, distraction of strippers and maybe even gun shots being fired when i posted earlier. All that is now gone as the family reunion is over.
op has his head on straight.
good luck on the build.
Do get gauges though.

Aside from the ap and ignition. +1 on gauges and clutch pedal.

Gauges because it's good to know how your car is currently running and clutch pedal because the last thing you want is that thing snapping while driving.

Thanks oldragger and Atilla, how hard are those gauges to hook up to the lines? I'll try looking for a DIY.




ALSO


On top of the mods, I'd like to perform my 60k mile maintenance, it has been asked many times if it is worth bringing the 8 to Mazda and paying $800 for them to do it all. I'd like to try doing it myself and need to know what to expect/what I need to buy. Tried searching around but didn't find much. I do not have my manual on me and need to know the specific dates/miles posted in our manual for that 60k scheduled maintenance. I am in Afghanistan right now with my car a looong ways away so have no access to it. Reason I need to know now is so I can order it and all this can be ready to go the day I get back because I will be driving the car the same day 700 miles (11.5 hrs). I need to make sure everything is up to date before going that far. Plus I'm sure I'll drive spirited for a little ways. :wink2: I tried looking for the manual online and found a few shop manuals but estimated download time through my slow ass internet here is around 5hrs 23mins... I simply do not have time for that in a war zone. :lol2:

So if anybody could please help me with what I need to do, it will be greatly appreciated. I'd like to do it myself because I'm sure it'll be quicker than Mazda can do it and a hell of a lot cheaper than $800... as I said.

I have an '06 with around 55k miles on it. I bring it to Mazda for regularly scheduled maintenance (basic fluids) but have never changed plugs or anything past what they do normally.

Thanks!
Ryan

When do you get home?

I am in VA, and have a bud or two down there... I'd be willing to drive and help a fellow soldier out. I get back from the sandbox in Winter 2011

When do you get home?

I am in VA, and have a bud or two down there... I'd be willing to drive and help a fellow soldier out. I get back from the sandbox in Winter 2011

I should be back in the states in exactly a month :ylsuper: I definitely appreciate the offer but that'd be quite the drive and not even worth it for you. I have a couple buddies that have a garage at their house that are willing to help.



Could anyone maybe scan their manual with the maintenance schedule and post it up here?




Thanks again Kane, good lookin out.
Ryan :smoker:

I have it.... when you get back LMK and I can email it to you - it's a pretty huge file.

TeamRX8 said the racing beat flash actually made less power than the stock flash.

I beg to differ! There are three flashes:

1 - for street and track
2 - mostly for track
3 - racing

I have the #1 flash and it does make a difference. I can show you a video of me passing other RX-8's on the back straight of road atlanta from turn 7 to turn 9. The exception was an 09 model that held it's own. If you want proof, I have it. Ask olddragger, he was there, which is probably why he suggested it.

I have it.... when you get back LMK and I can email it to you - it's a pretty huge file.

Awesome, my email is lebel.ryan@gmail.com . The only problem is I kind of need the list of what to buy now so it'll be there when I get back.

I beg to differ! There are three flashes:

1 - for street and track
2 - mostly for track
3 - racing

I have the #1 flash and it does make a difference. I can show you a video of me passing other RX-8's on the back straight of road atlanta from turn 7 to turn 9. The exception was an 09 model that held it's own. If you want proof, I have it. Ask olddragger, he was there, which is probably why he suggested it.

Interesting, how much did you pay and how long did it take?






Ryan :smoker:

$295. Mine was done while at Mazcare and getting other work done. Take yours out, over night it to Racing Beat, they flash and overnight it back to you. Can be done in as little as 3 days from what I understand.

Link: http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?partnumber=11307

Instructions: http://www.racingbeat.com/PDF/PCM%20Ordering.pdf

Yeah I realize it's probably over kill but I figure go big or go home. :cool: The Stance GR+ seem like a good quality coilover that I won't have to worry about shitting the bed. I currently have Eibach springs on the car with stock shocks and have been running that setup for around 30k miles so I know the shocks are probably just about done. I also do not like the uneven look of the drop from the Eibach springs. So I figured to get the drop I want, I'd need to buy both, different springs and new shocks. For a few hundred more, I got coilovers instead so I can make sure I get the drop I want. I know I'll have different wheel setups down the road so I figure the coilovers will come in handy in case I ever need to adjust.

Thanks again,
Ryan :smoker:

Sorry, I just caught this message.

Ryan, understand that a properly configured coil-over setup is much more than simply "going bigger or going home" with your setup.

Coilover suspension is not always great for what it does but what it allows you, the driver, to do. Coilovers are special because they give you an extended range of adjustment that you don't get with normal suspension systems.

You're able to adjust ride height, valve dampening (sometimes independent depending on the kit), as well as spring tension (sometimes called preload).

The problem is, the majority of coilover buyers have no idea how any of these adjustments fit into the handling of their vehicle. Many of them buy coilovers because they cannot get the drop they need with normal strut and spring combination kits and they don't want to be ghetto and cut their springs.

To be able to adjust coilover suspension in a manner which will benefit your handling you will need to do the following:

1. Install your kit

This one is pretty self explanatory.

2. Find your desired ride height. This really is more of a compromise on a street car. Going too low will actually make your handling worse by totally messing up the suspension geometry. You'll want a ride height that meets your goals but allows you to drive normally without the risk of scraping on everything.

3. Get corner balanced

Having coilover suspension it totally worthless without corner balancing. For this, you'll need a set of scales and about 2 or 3 hours depending on how much time you want to spend at it. This way you get the proper weight distribution WITH you in the car.

4. Get an alignment

This, again, is done with you in the car.

It is quite an undertaking and unless you spend the time to dial in the system you are just wasting money. The true test would be doing a test-n-tune at the track but if that isn't something you plan on doing then obviously it would be overkill.


I beg to differ! There are three flashes:

1 - for street and track
2 - mostly for track
3 - racing

I have the #1 flash and it does make a difference. I can show you a video of me passing other RX-8's on the back straight of road atlanta from turn 7 to turn 9. The exception was an 09 model that held it's own. If you want proof, I have it. Ask olddragger, he was there, which is probably why he suggested it.

I honestly don't understand why people still carry the torch for this product anymore.

"Making a difference" over the stock tune isn't that hard. The stock RX8 tune runs very rich so simply adding a point of AFR will bring about better response and more power. However, the devil is in the details. I've been up and down comparing the differences between the service that RacingBeat provides with their tunes compared to what the RX8 accessPORT can do. Considering the price drop it's even more of a no-brainer.

To be able to adjust coilover suspension in a manner which will benefit your handling you will need to do the following:

1. Install your kit

This one is pretty self explanatory.

What's install mean? haha :)

2. Find your desired ride height. This really is more of a compromise on a street car. Going too low will actually make your handling worse by totally messing up the suspension geometry. You'll want a ride height that meets your goals but allows you to drive normally without the risk of scraping on everything.

Ok.

3. Get corner balanced

Having coilover suspension it totally worthless without corner balancing. For this, you'll need a set of scales and about 2 or 3 hours depending on how much time you want to spend at it. This way you get the proper weight distribution WITH you in the car.

I have access to a set of scales as my buddy races a stock car and we corner balance it all the time. What can be changed on the coilover to reflect this though? The dampening? All we do with the race car is change the springs or add lead weights to certain parts underneath to get what we want.

4. Get an alignment

This, again, is done with you in the car.

Will a shop let me just sit in the car while getting an alignment?


It is quite an undertaking and unless you spend the time to dial in the system you are just wasting money. The true test would be doing a test-n-tune at the track but if that isn't something you plan on doing then obviously it would be overkill.

I understand this now but I already bought them so it is too late to change my mind. I do not feel like trying to resell them and I got the Stance's for a steal. Unfortunately I thought it was a little easier to do. However, if it's time that it takes to get this right, then I am not worried too much. I don't mind taking time to make sure I get it perfect as to not screw up the awesome handling of this amazing car. I appreciate all the help in the steps I need to take to make this happen right.

Are those steps in order? Get an alignment after corner balancing?

Thanks again Flashwing, BIG help!

Ryan :smoker:

I honestly don't understand why people still carry the torch for this product anymore.

Flashwing, constructively speaking.... some people like a simple install and not have to tinker or be dependent on someone else. I personally do not have time to work with, program or figure the best tuning for my car. I guess you might say I just want to install and move on. I'm not criticizing the alternatives. It's just that it's simple and it does work as an alternative. This is good for some of us, still. So, maybe if that is understood then picking the right product for the individual is appropriate. If someone is hard core then I agree with you.

Bump, finally back in the States! :smoker:

Flashwing, do you have any answers to the questions I asked above?