I was on my way to work about to make a right on king and spadina and the car died. I tried starting it and it wouldnt start so I called a tow truck about 10 minutes later I tried starting it again and it started. Any Ideas what the problem could be car is 05 auto has 57000 km. I got brand new ignition coils and spark plugs put in 6 months ago. I have noticed lately that its taking about 6 seconds to crank the engine to start. the battery is new I would say about a year old.

You guys think it could be a problem with the fuel pump.

Have you checked the contacts on the battery terminals?

How does it die? Do a whole bunch of lights come up on the instrument panel, then flash on/off and then die? Need description

... I have noticed lately that its taking about 6 seconds to crank the engine to start.

I think there are couple of issues here...but the one with the crank could be contributed with the weak starter on the 04-05 models...
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Yes when it died all the lights on the instrumental panel were lit up and stayed lit until I powered them off by turning the key. The contacts on the battery terminal look fine to me. Car idles just above 1000 rpm

it does seem likely its a battery terminal issue rather than the long start low compression.

No issues revving through to redline?

Just a thought.
Try turning on all equipment(AC, Lights, Stereo,etc) at idle, if the car starts to stumble, it may be your
alternator and your draining the battery. That may be why it restarts in 10 minutes or so. And this may be the reason for the cranking issue as well.

I can redline no problems at all. I wonder if it could be the fuel pump filter

If I drive for awhile let the car warm up it begins to stall from a complete stop to a start and I have to let the car cool down before I can drive again. Going to get it towed to a Mazda dealer which Mazda dealer do you guys recommend. When the car stalls and dies it shows the battery light and the yellow light underneath it not sure what it signifies looks like a kettle. I don't have the manual

Is your engine overheating? When was the last time coolant changed?

Looks like an overheating issue.

I bought the car at 37000 kms it is now at 57000 kms in that time I never changed the coolant. When taking the car to the dealer should I remove my AEM cai or not. I think it might be the engine low compression when it warms up car stutters and stops maybe the apex seals.

meh... doubt it's the seals... otherwise it'd be running like shit all the way through.. not just when it warmed up.

I'm with RXeckless on this one... alt is a likely cause. All of the idiot lights go on when you start the car up after you disconnect the battery. The traction control like should be squawking as well...

As for the whole stall when warm thing, I'm pretty farmilar with that... I had to disconnect the battery when I was correcting a power stearing issue last week... the car was fine when it was cold... but when it warmed up.. and if I came to a stop the car would dip below 700RPM and stall. Had to have the foot on the gas to esnure it would die. In any case... that was just the ecu relearning after the power disconnect. After about 30 minutes of driving everything was happy happy again.

just got off the phone with scarborough mazda got an appointment scheduled for tomorrow they said its going to cost $109 to run diagnostics test on it about 4 hours to test everything. I hope they find my problem.

Dropped car car off at Scarborough Mazda they ran diagnostics and found nothing wrong but recomended I go to mazmark.

Does the car go perfectly fine and then just stall right out? have you tried shifting gears to get it going again?

Mine does exactly that, it used to stall out and run a while after, but now run for hours on end, except if I floor it for 5 or 10 mins, ie mosport, it dies out till i shift.

Im thinkin its the fuel pump, there is a video on youtube that shows exactly what is happening with mine.

Check it out?

Our friend here drives an AT.

I drove to Scarborough Mazda and back home about 30 minute drive each way and the car didn't stall.

Hmmm, still sounds similar to mine. I drove all the way to mosport (3hours) and it didnt stall once. On the track I went 1 lap and it would stall when i hit 160kph, then drove fine all the way home.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPud13-WTVU

Thats what my car does, although usually not so bouncey.

mine did the same and i did was run fuel injector cleaner and ran through the tank until my fuel was empty 210km later lol and then filled up again with fuel injector cleaner on the 2nd fill just drove normally and all is well now never did it again i have an 06 and mines a manual give it a try cheap alternative

Bad warm start & idle problems I know well. They are an indicator of low compression. I've had to have 2 engines replaced because of them. First one wouldn't start after a fill up at the gas station. 15 minutes later, it would be fine. The last engine would die at the traffic light about 2 miles from my home. Never tried to restart that one, the police had called a tow truck to get my car out of the traffic lane.
I've also had a problem with the fuel pump. This doesn't sound like this is your problem. First my fuel pump would have problems in long left turns on the track. Later, when it got real bad, it would get hot and cut out on long trips after the fuel level went down. This happened last January in Florida where the weather was warmer too. Keeping a full tank of gas and driving further north keep that from happening again until I got a replacement pump.

Well I changed my engine coolant on Sunday and car hasn't stalled out since

It's the coolant.. I've been saying that since the beginning.

okay, so im having a similar prob. but it didnt stall yet. i noticed that whens its hot outside which for the past couple of days its been at least 80 deg. in denver, but i noticed that my car losses A LOT of power when warmed up. even last night i was going somewhere which was about a 20 min drive total, my rpm began to drop to about 700, 500 with the a/c on, and the idle was really rough and i had to throw the rpms up to 3k just to give the car more power to start going. could it be the same prob listed above with the alt, cause i doubt its compression cause when its cold the car pulls like a sports car. ;)

EDIT: my car is an 04 m/t with 52400k miles

dying coils

well i was planning to buy some new coils and wires... haha

So I drove up to pickering from toronto yesterday and so I decided to turn my AC on. So I come to a stop light When I go to give it gas the car just shuts off all lights on the dash come on. So I pull over shut off AC and car restarts and runs fine.

Correct me if Im wrong doesnt this sound like an alternator problem? and if so anyone know where to get one in toronto?

Thanks

HELP! I've invested entirely too much time and money into this car this summer and was so excited to get it, now it is time for me to head back to school 3 hours away in less than a week and it has gone absolutely haywire. At stoplights/stop signs/parking lots, just any time I idle it will sometimes just randomly start idling rough then shut off. It won't start back up right away but it always eventually starts back up but it's completely dangerous to be shutting off at stoplights and things. Mazda dealership couldn't tell me anything other than the fact my air injection pump is bad but that to me sounds like would have nothing to do with it and the problem is obviously a common one does anyone have any fixes for their issue.. without getting a new engine cause this car already had a new engine about a year ago I believe and If you tell me that I might just go sit in a corner and scream.

Read your codes I found my problem to be a ssv stuck open code P2070. I have taken apart my throttle body and have sprayed some Mazda engine cleaner and worked the solenoid valve loose with a hand pump and a screwdriver. Car has ran perfect for about 3 weeks now no stalling but I now I just recently got a check engine light with same code. My next task is to pull out the SSV valve and clean it properly. Throttle body is a pain in the ass to pull out there is one bolt in behind the throttle that's a pain to remove. Get ready for some fuel to spill out also when you remove one of the hoses underneath the throttle body.

hackdss- There is no need to remove the throttle body to get the SSV out.
And when you remove the TB, all you need to remove is the four bolts attaching it to the UIM.
Leave the coolant lines attach and let the TB hang.
Not sure why you mentioned fuel spilling... you never need to remove the fuel line (red disconnect) so remove the UIM.