hi, i am just wondering has anyone change their tranny oil yet?

Yup - Redline MT90, changed at ~5000mi. I did the diff at the same time, Redline 75W90.

Regards,
Gordon

I'm going /w redline aswell when I do the next oil change.

Something wrong w the tranny oil? Why change with 5k mi? Unless you really want synthetic tranny oil, I would say change it according to your maint schedule.

can you tell me how to change it? thanks

Redline MT-90 and 75w90 at 1500 miles for me.

Vince

Originally posted by djantlive
Something wrong w the tranny oil? Why change with 5k mi? Unless you really want synthetic tranny oil, I would say change it according to your maint schedule.

I still believe in break-in of mechanical items - the initial wear and micro-finishing that occurs during the initial period of use (say, 5K miles ;) ) is significant, and will generate more filings than the next 100K miles. The trans oil that drained out looked incredibly cruddy, I was very happy I decided to change it! 5K was convenient, because that was when I finished a 4000 mile road trip that started 2 weeks after I bought the car.

I am a believer in the better protection provided by synthetic gear oils, both temperature breakdown resistance and shear resistance. Also, I like the better viscosity characteristics when cold, especially when cold!

Regards,
Gordon

mmmmmmm Yet another thing I dont think I would have done without the idea from you guys... Thanks!!

I also changed my tranny oil last month after reading Gord96BRG posts with Redline MT90.

I am glad that I did because the old oil was so cloudy as Gordon had described and my had a lot of deposit of metal particles. I seldomly grind the gears but the amount of metal particles worry me. I am planning to change it again in the summer to see if there will be the same amount of build up.

FWIW, last November I posted a write-up with pictures on my tranny/diff oil change here (http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/).
Cheers,
-jd.

jdl, how did you put new fluid in? Turkey baster? Also if you have the rear end jacked up, wouldn't some of the old diff fluid remain? Or did you have the entire car level before draining various fluids?
________
Ticketmaster Gift Cards (http://bestfreegiftcard.com/ticketmaster-gift-cards/)

I was about to ask how ya get the fluid in myself :D

This looks like a quick sunday project though.

Easy to change - I have a funnel with about 4 feet of clear tubing (1/2" or 3/4" dia?), bought at Canadian Tire (NAPA kind of auto parts store), made for this purpose - it has a shut-off valve and a lid, and the end of the tubing has a cap, all for eliminating drips and spills.

First - put the car up on 4 jack stands so it's level. From the engine compartment, snake the tubing down past the oil filler tube. Remove the fill plug on the transmission, then remove the drain plug and let drain into a catch pan. Then remove the fill plug on the diff, then the drain plug and drain into a separate catch pan. ALWAYS remove the fill plug before the drain plug - you do not want to remove the drain plug, and then find that the fill plug is siezed and you have no way to add fluid back in!

After the trans has drained, install the drain plug. Then take the tubing hanging down beside the back of the engine, and insert the end of it into the fill hole. Go stand beside the engine compartment, and pour the trans fluid into the funnel and watch it slowly drain. NO messing about with pumps and squeeze bottles required! With the clear tubing, you can watch the progress of the fluid. After you've added the required volume, check the fill hole for the correct level, then remove the tubing (put the cap on it to prevent drips), then insert and tighten the fill plug.

Let any leftover trans fluid in the funnel drain completely into the catch pan, then take the funnel and tubing back to the drivers side rear wheel. Snake the tubing over the wheel, along the driveshaft. Crawl under the car, and feed the tubing into the differential fill hole. Go back out to beside the rear wheel, and pour the required volume of differential fluid into the funnel and watch it drain! NO messing about with pumps or squeeze bottles required! After you've added the required volume, check the fill hole for the correct level, then remove the tubing (put the cap on it to prevent drips), then insert and tighten the fill plug.


Regards,
Gordon

Nice info, thanks. You mentioned using 2 qts of tranny fluid. What about diff fluid? And do you know the PN for various crush washers?
________
Mary Jane (http://maryjanes.info/)

Originally posted by PUR NRG
jdl, how did you put new fluid in? Turkey baster? Also if you have the rear end jacked up, wouldn't some of the old diff fluid remain? Or did you have the entire car level before draining various fluids? I should update my pictorial ;)
I used one of those really cheap-o gear oil pumps from pep boys -- about $3, I think. These little pumps want to be partially inserted into the bottle so the pump handle sticks straight up out of the bottle. For stability I cut a few inches off the top of the oil bottles so the pump would properly fit. Nice.

RE: level -- well, in fact, I actually used a mason's level to ensure the car was level before refilling the diff.

Cheers,
-jd.

Originally posted by PUR NRG
Nice info, thanks. You mentioned using 2 qts of tranny fluid. What about diff fluid? And do you know the PN for various crush washers? I'll have to look it up, but I'm pretty sure the diff only takes one quart. I recall it took just what the specification in the owner's manual said, though.

The transmission drain plug crush washer is the same as for the miata (mine was a '99) which I had a handful of for some reason, so I don't have the PN. It's aluminum, like the drain plug crush washer for the diff. I've seen a large variety of these (and copper ones) at pep boys, but I don't have the sizes...maybe somebody with a maint. manual can provide those specs? (Gotta buy me one of those some day...!)

Cheers,
-jd.

Originally posted by jdl
I'll have to look it up, but I'm pretty sure the diff only takes one quart. I recall it took just what the specification in the owner's manual said, though.

That's what I thought at first, too - but it's actually 1.7 or 1.8 quarts! It's the Miata diff that takes one quart!

It is in the owners manual, though. I'd suggest everyone look it up themselves before doing this to make sure they have the right number!

Regards,
Gordon

Originally posted by Gord96BRG
That's what I thought at first, too - but it's actually 1.7 or 1.8 quarts! It's the Miata diff that takes one quart![...]Regards,
Gordon Thanks for tip, Gord96BRG -- musta done the miata diff too many times...;) I'll try to update my howto this afternoon/tonight with more specs from the owner's manual. Cheers,
-jd.

autosupply stores sell a cheap hand pump with clear hoses to fill the differential. BTW, always open the fill plug first. Or else you'll end up with an empty differential when you can't get the fill plug open.

Originally posted by djantlive
autosupply stores sell a cheap hand pump with clear hoses to fill the differential. BTW, always open the fill plug first. Or else you'll end up with an empty differential when you can't get the fill plug open.

Or when you realize you need the pump! Doh! (been there)

I just bought the redline tranny and diff oils for my 240sx but haven't put them in yet. Did you guys notice any gains in performance? I know the diff oil bottle says it improves drivetrain efficiency 2-5%. So I'm thinking the combo will not only improve shifts but help put down a few more hp to the wheels.

Three questions:

* Shouldn't we be using GL-5?
* What does Mazda recomend, Conv or syn gear oil?
* Does the manual state at or just below the fill hole for the
propper level for both manual trans and the rear gear?




CWB
Black GT1 5100 miles

Originally posted by Gord96BRG
Easy to change - I have a funnel with about 4 feet of clear tubing (1/2" or 3/4" dia?), bought at Canadian Tire (NAPA kind of auto parts store), made for this purpose - it has a shut-off valve and a lid, and the end of the tubing has a cap, all for eliminating drips and spills.

First - put the car up on 4 jack stands so it's level. From the engine compartment, snake the tubing down past the oil filler tube. Remove the fill plug on the transmission, then remove the drain plug and let drain into a catch pan. Then remove the fill plug on the diff, then the drain plug and drain into a separate catch pan. ALWAYS remove the fill plug before the drain plug - you do not want to remove the drain plug, and then find that the fill plug is siezed and you have no way to add fluid back in!

After the trans has drained, install the drain plug. Then take the tubing hanging down beside the back of the engine, and insert the end of it into the fill hole. Go stand beside the engine compartment, and pour the trans fluid into the funnel and watch it slowly drain. NO messing about with pumps and squeeze bottles required! With the clear tubing, you can watch the progress of the fluid. After you've added the required volume, check the fill hole for the correct level, then remove the tubing (put the cap on it to prevent drips), then insert and tighten the fill plug.

Let any leftover trans fluid in the funnel drain completely into the catch pan, then take the funnel and tubing back to the drivers side rear wheel. Snake the tubing over the wheel, along the driveshaft. Crawl under the car, and feed the tubing into the differential fill hole. Go back out to beside the rear wheel, and pour the required volume of differential fluid into the funnel and watch it drain! NO messing about with pumps or squeeze bottles required! After you've added the required volume, check the fill hole for the correct level, then remove the tubing (put the cap on it to prevent drips), then insert and tighten the fill plug.


Regards,
Gordon


Hey Gordon- I just found this thread... sorry for being late with this question. Is there a separate shift turret chamber like the Miata has? I ran Redline in my Miata in both the tranny and diff and loved it.

Thanks!

-Sean

Nope.

Vince

Originally posted by CWB
Three questions:

* Shouldn't we be using GL-5?
* What does Mazda recomend, Conv or syn gear oil?
* Does the manual state at or just below the fill hole for the
propper level for both manual trans and the rear gear?

We are using GL-5 - Redline 75W90 GL-5 for the diff. IIRC, the manual specifies GL-4/GL-5 for the trans, and again Redline MT90 meets Mazda's specs.

Mazda doesn't specify one way or another for gear oil - just the GL class and viscosity.

The manual states to fill to the level of the fill hole (for both). Fill it til it drools out, then you're done!

Originally posted by G8rboy
Is there a separate shift turret chamber like the Miata has?

Nope - only the Miata 5 speed has that. The Miata 6 speed doesn't, neither does the RX-8 6 speed!

Regards,
Gordon

so for the gear oils, can the 75w90 GL class be used in both differentials.. meaning for auto and man trannys??

Originally posted by Tirxer
so for the gear oils, can the 75w90 GL class be used in both differentials.. meaning for auto and man trannys??

Yes, the 75W90 GL-5 is used in the differential on both the MT and AT cars.

The manual transmission itself uses the GL-4 75W90 like Redline MT90; the automatic transmission would blow up if you used regular gear lube in it! ;)

Regards,
Gordon

***Bumb***
HIGHLY RECOGMENDED:

Just for those of you that havnt done this.... I just did it this weekend (5061 miles) and OMG!!! So much crap was on the drain plug, took me a good 10 min to clean them. I couldnt get ahold of any Redline, but I got ahold of the German Equivalent, Moly-... Something or other. Was refered to it by others as the best...... At 11.30 Euro a liter, It BETTER be.

Oh and for those of us that have to buy by the liter, 3 isnt enough!! get 4!!

What size sockets are needed to replace the manual transmission oil and differential fluid please?

I'm planning to Red Line my manual transmission and differential. I'll have access to a service bay, but need to bring my own tools and won't be able to get under my car until then.

Torque specs:
Manual Transmission filler/drain bolts: 27-48 N.m
Differential filler/drain bolts:
39.2-53.9 N.m

FYI - The Red Line Oil website is http://www.redlineoil.com . No biggie, but they spell it Red Line vs Redline .... made searching for this thread a bit challenging since it's spelled differently.

rx8cited

Just ebfore I go and buy the oil, any words against Royal purple vs Redline? It's easier for me to lay hands on the purple stuff is all.

Originally posted by PUR NRG
...And do you know the PN for various crush washers?

Part # for:
Transmission filler/drain plug crush washers - Y601-17-361 (oddly, description in Mazda parts system is "Tape, Protector")

Differential filler/drain plug crush washers - 9956-41-800

Both sets were identical in size except for the fact the the transmission washers were a bit thicker.

rx8cited

Originally posted by rx8cited
What size sockets are needed to replace the manual transmission oil and differential fluid please? ....

Red Lined my transmission and differential last night. Initial impression is that shifting feels a bit smoother.

A 24 mm socket is required for differential drain and manual transmission drain / filler bolts. A 23 mm socket is required for differential filler bolt (Note: 23 mm is not a common size and a 23 mm deep socket will not work - there's not enough clearance).

See jdl's most excellent pictures and information (http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/) .

rx8cited

Did you guys buy the crush washers locally or online somepalce?

Originally posted by Genom
Did you guys buy the crush washers locally or online somepalce?

I got mine locally at a Mazda dealer. They did not have transmission washers in stock Monday and told me there were only 6 washers available in the whole country. He had two for me by Wednesday morning.

rx8cited

Did you guys buy the crush washers locally or online somepalce

I also ordered mine through my Mazda dealer last week.

Have been out of town, so I have not used the Redline bought through Rosenthal Mazda online.

Originally posted by Gord96BRG
Yup - Redline MT90, changed at ~5000mi. I did the diff at the same time, Redline 75W90.

Regards,
Gordon

Hi nothing in life is simple when I went to order I noticed there is more then on Red Line diff oil. 75w90ns(a synthetic) and regular 75w90 which one did you use?

Also because the 75w90ns is a GL-5 could you use that for the transmission too. Below is from Red Lines Site:

"TRANSMISSIONS - MTL® can be used in most manual transmissions and transaxles for both street and racing use unless the manufacturer requires the additional protection of an SAE 90 or the extreme-pressure protection of a GL-5. In those situations the MT 90 (GL-4) or 75W90NS (GL-5) will provide good shiftability and synchro compatibility and extra gear protection."

Originally posted by flatso
Hi nothing in life is simple when I went to order I noticed there is more then on Red Line diff oil. 75w90ns(a synthetic) and regular 75w90 which one did you use?....

Use MT-90 for the manual transmission and 75W90 (which is also synthetic) for the rear differential.

rx8cited

FWIW, I queried Red Line Oil's tech staff on the question of which gear oil (75w90 or 75w90NS, or ?) is recommended for TORSEN-type diffs. The reply is from Dave Granquist at Red Line Oil:


From: Dave@redlineoil.com
Subject: Re: TORSEN LSD: 75w90 or 75w90NS?

In your Torsen differential, I would recommend the Red Line 75W90.
The Torsen doesn't need the friction modifier that the 75W90 contains, but it is beneficial as it reduces friction and temperatures on the hypoid gear.

Thank you for your interest in Red Line Oil.


Hope that clears things up a bit.
Cheers,
-jd.

Originally posted by rx8cited
Red Lined my transmission and differential last night. Initial impression is that shifting feels a bit smoother.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread.

Over a week later ......... Wow :D, the transmission is noticeably smoother since putting Red Line MT-90 in. It's the best thing that ever happened to my car (she's still young).

I'd highly recommend doing the the Red Line transmission oil / differential lube procedure if you feel that you're transmission's a bit too notchy.

How many mile do you folks plan on driving before repeating this procedure? The Severe / Normal Service Schedule recommends 30k / 60 k miles for transmission and differential fluid replacement.

rx8cited

Yea ive changed tran oil along with the tranny

Do they sell Red Line Products in any stores (I live in NJ) or if not where is they best place to buy?

Originally posted by flatso
Do they sell Red Line Products in any stores (I live in NJ) or if not where is they best place to buy?

My experience is that you won't find their products in just any store. If you have any local performance parts places around, call them. Also check the Red Line dealer list (http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/dealersinfo.htm) and call their phone # at the top of that page if you don't see anything listed that's close to you.

Rosenthal Mazda (http://www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/rx8_maintenance.html) sells Red Line products too.

rx8cited

do you really need a 23mm wrench..those are hard to find

Originally posted by flatso
do you really need a 23mm wrench..those are hard to find

Flatso,

You said "23mm wrench", I assume you meant "23mm socket ". You do plan on using a torque wrench I hope? in which case you'd need a socket.

For the rear differential drain plug: a 24mm socket fits loose, 22mm does not fit, 23mm fits the best, and 23mm deep won't fit.

The 24mm socket - it's only 4.3% larger than 23mm, but I did not want to risk damaging the plug.

Did you check your local Sears and auto parts stores for a 23mm socket? I recently purchased a Craftsman set that goes up to 24mm and includes the difficult to find 23mm socket.

Also, if you don't have a torque wrench, they're on sale at Sears thru 3/27.

rx8cited

Here my experience with the tranny oil change.

1. I had the right equipment, including a lift at work that made the process smother.

2. Both tranny and diff oil were really dark and cleaning the micro metal shaves from the lower plugs turned to be just a bit of effort since is magnetized.

3. Red oil works like a charm. I can feel my shifting even smother.

4. I tryed to use the "hose and funnel" method but it turned out to be a bit of pain in butt since the oil didn't wanted to flow. Luckly, before the service mechanic was gone for the day showed me where was his gear oil pump so I just have to incert the pick up hose to the bottle and pump the oil. Yeah its a bit messy but I also have those adjustable height oil pan to catch any spills.

Originally posted by romulus
4. I tryed to use the "hose and funnel" method but it turned out to be a bit of pain in butt since the oil didn't wanted to flow.

I didn't have that problem, but here's a trick that would have helped - heat up the bottle of gear oil first. Get a pan/pot of hot water, and let the gear oil bottle sit in the hot water for a while. That would heat up the oil enough to let it flow much easier.

Regards,
Gordon

Originally posted by Gord96BRG
I didn't have that problem, but here's a trick that would have helped - heat up the bottle of gear oil first. Get a pan/pot of hot water, and let the gear oil bottle sit in the hot water for a while. That would heat up the oil enough to let it flow much easier.

Regards,
Gordon

does anyone have a pic of the pump that you can use?

Originally posted by flatso
does anyone have a pic of the pump that you can use?

flatso,
I did not use a pump ....... if this help: This on/off fluid tool (http://www.hopkinsmfg.com/10106.html) did the trick for me. I bought mine at Advance Auto Parts for less than $5 and I've also seen them at Pep Boys. The one's I've seen have yellow plastic in place of the red plastic as pictured in the link, but the part # is the same - Flotool #10106.

Since the Red Line oil bottles don't have a standard quart sized opening, the don't fit the on/off fluid filler tool, so I had to find something that did fit ....... a 20 oz plastic Dr. Pepper bottle worked great - any similar clear drink bottle should work.

Wash, rinse, and dry out the bottle first. Try the tool on the bottle for good fit before putting oil into the bottle :).

Pull the stopper gadget completely off the filler tool tube so that the tube will fit into the oil filler holes snugly.

When you're ready to add oil:

1) Turn the filler tool off.
2) Fill up the 20 oz bottle from the Red Line oil container, then screw the filler onto the bottle.
3) Put the tube into the filler hole - it fits snugly into the hole. Make sure it's far enough in so that oil does not start leaking while you're putting it in.
4) Turn the bottle upside down and orient it such that the on/off valve is at or above the filler hole height. This is a bit tricky but can be done. You may find it easier to do this step before step 3.
5) Slowly turn the filler to the on position.
6) Squeeze and release the bottle until it's empty or oil is running out of the filler hole. Being able to squeeze the bottle really helped since the oil is so thick.
7) Turn the filler off and refill the bottle if necessary or return the excess oil to the original container if done.

Follow 1-7 for both the transmission and differential. You can wash the on/off filler tool with soap and water for future reuse.

rx8cited

I couldn't find a picture of the pump that I used, but here a site that has a better one.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=CSM&MfrPartNumber=36667&CategoryCode=3243

Used the Redline products for my tranny & rear end this weekend. Surprisingly, the rear end had more metal shavings than my transmission.

Bought the Redline products from Rosenthal, and ordered my crush washers from my local dealer.

A 15/16 socket fits perfectly for the drain & fill plugs. Used a siphon pump for filling. Most any auto parts store will have this. The pick-up tube supplied fit into the smaller opening of the Redline quart containers.

Originally posted by rxeightr


A 15/16 socket fits perfectly for the drain & fill plugs. Used a siphon pump for filling. Most any auto parts store will have this. The pick-up tube supplied fit into the smaller opening of the Redline quart containers.

"For the rear differential drain plug: a 24mm socket fits loose, 22mm does not fit, 23mm fits the best, and 23mm deep won't fit"

Was the 15/16 loose on the diff drain plug?

Was the 15/16 loose on the diff drain plug?

No, it fit perfectly. Also, the plugs are not 'tight', so getting them off was easy.

Originally posted by flatso
does anyone have a pic of the pump that you can use?

This one was from Pep Boys. It's a simple affair. As mentioned, gear oil flows at a leisurely rate unless it's heated. So using the pump dry (new) it can take a while before oil actually is drawn into the cylinder. Just takes a bit of patience. Then you have a good seal and it pumps easily enough.

Depending on what fluids you intend to use you may want to get 2 pumps to avoid putting any of the wrong stuff in the wrong box (what is it again - no GL4 in the diff?). Or is separate pumps just anal? I haven't switched fluids in the 8 yet.

Originally posted by Nubo
This one was from Pep Boys. It's a simple affair. As mentioned, gear oil flows at a leisurely rate unless it's heated. So using the pump dry (new) it can take a while before oil actually is drawn into the cylinder. Just takes a bit of patience. Then you have a good seal and it pumps easily enough.

Depending on what fluids you intend to use you may want to get 2 pumps to avoid putting any of the wrong stuff in the wrong box (what is it again - no GL4 in the diff?). Or is separate pumps just anal? I haven't switched fluids in the 8 yet.

I bought the same pump, but did not even bother opening it because my on/off fluid tool with squeezable Dr. Pepper bottle method worked so well - no lube heating required.

I did not want to deal with cleaning the thick lube out of the pump and its "miles" of tubing.

rx8cited

me again hopefully last question :D

do you need two crush washers for the tranny and two for the differential. Have RX-8 washers become available?

Do you really need to replace them each time?

Originally posted by flatso
me again hopefully last question :D

do you need two crush washers for the tranny and two for the differential. Have RX-8 washers become available?

Do you really need to replace them each time?

My 2 cents worth ..... I spend $30k+ on the car ..... I was not about to try and save a few bucks reusing the available washers which the service manual says to replace. My dealer had to order two of the four washers and had them within 2 days.

The hassle of the rework required if I reused the washers and they leaked was not worth risking.

rx8cited

My dealer had to order two of the four washers and had them within 2 days.

I ordered all of them from my dealer, and had them in 2 days

just ordered some washer myself, and the guy said the ones for the differential were the same ones that go with the oil tank...said he'd give me a handful of those for free...had to order the ones for the tranny though...

No good deed goes un-punished ....

After reading this thread, and having a Mazda $50 gift certificate, I decided to have the transmission oil and differential oil changed at my 8 month service (only 6K miles but I am on maint schedule 2).

Big mistake! What was a beautifully smooth shifting transmission has become very rough. The synchronizers are noticeably "sticky" going into any gear where the engine/drivetriain speeds don't match perfectly. The shifter has taken on a very "notchey" feel. I don't know what brand "goo" they used to make such a noticeable difference but apparently the RX-8 transmission isn't very forgiving.

So I have to do penance, buy the MT 90 and install it myself. I used Red Line in my Miata and loved it so I hope the MT 90 will give me back the wonderful transmission that came with my car.

Originally posted by msrecant
No good deed goes un-punished ....

After reading this thread, and having a Mazda $50 gift certificate, I decided to have the transmission oil and differential oil changed at my 8 month service (only 6K miles but I am on maint schedule 2).

Big mistake! What was a beautifully smooth shifting transmission has become very rough. The synchronizers are noticeably "sticky" going into any gear where the engine/drivetriain speeds don't match perfectly. The shifter has taken on a very "notchey" feel. I don't know what brand "goo" they used to make such a noticeable difference but apparently the RX-8 transmission isn't very forgiving.

So I have to do penance, buy the MT 90 and install it myself. I used Red Line in my Miata and loved it so I hope the MT 90 will give me back the wonderful transmission that came with my car.

I had exactly the same experience. Especially 1-2 upshift.

Ordered the MT-90; should be in the car by the end of next week.

Good Luck!

msrecant and NEWireless,
Sorry to hear of your misfortunes with the mystery transmission oil and differential lubes that the dealers used :( . I'd bet that they're not using synthetics and specifically the Red Line products we touted on this thread.

I'd hope they used the equivalent of what the Mazda factory used so I wonder why the shifting got messed up so badly?

Hope to hear that your shifting is all better after you put the Red Line MT-90 in.

Yeah, I was real suprised. I wasn't expecting performance like the Red Line product, but I didn't expect it to perform worse.

I couldn't believe that the dealer would (or could) use an MT oil that would be so noticeably different from the factory MT oil. However, it was so different that it only took about 15 minutes of driving to absolutely convince myself that something had changed (for the worse). I even tried to force myself to believe that I was imagining the change, but the stiffness/stickyness doing shifts convinced me otherwise.

Apparently either the transmission is very sensitive to the type of MT oil or there is a real big difference between the factory MT oil and the domestic brands used by US dealerships.

Either way, I'm sure the MT-90, which is currently on order, will fix it.

Originally posted by msrecant
[B].......I couldn't believe that the dealer would (or could) use an MT oil that would be so noticeably different from the factory MT oil. However, it was so different that it only took about 15 minutes of driving to absolutely convince myself that something had changed (for the worse). I even tried to force myself to believe that I was imagining the change, but the stiffness/stickyness doing shifts convinced me otherwise......B]

Have you notified the service department of your negative experiences? Hopefully they'd investigate and correct the situation (poor or incorrect lubes I presume) that caused your rough shifting in order to not upset future customers with whatever they did to your transmission.

Originally posted by rx8cited
Have you notified the service department of your negative experiences? Hopefully they'd investigate and correct the situation (poor or incorrect lubes I presume) that caused your rough shifting in order to not upset future customers with whatever they did to your transmission.

I been debating doing that. Since the MT/Diff oil changes were a freebee I am more dissappointed than angry. Yes, one would hope that they would care about a problem like this. However, based on past experience with this dealership I don't have much hope. They just don't maintain cars with an eye to this level of detail.

If the regular-maintenance wasn't free (I was a pre-order) I would probably be having it done elsewhere.

Looking on the bright side, your experience is just a thorough oil change before you do it right yourself. The dealer's replacement oil will do a decent job of clearing out more of the junk you don't want in there for the really long haul anyway :)
-jd.

Originally posted by NEWireless
I had exactly the same experience. Especially 1-2 upshift.

Ordered the MT-90; should be in the car by the end of next week.

Good Luck!
Got the Red-Line MT-90 in the tranny today for free (thank you 128 Mazda).

Transmission is smooth and easy (as I had originally hoped for).

Originally posted by NEWireless
Got the Red-Line MT-90 in the tranny today for free (thank you 128 Mazda).

Transmission is smooth and easy (as I had originally hoped for).

Is it better than before the Dealership MT oil change?

Originally posted by msrecant
Is it better than before the Dealership MT oil change?

Yes, it's noticeably better.

I had no problems before the 1st change, but now the shifting is much smoother.

I am impressed! It was pretty smooth before. I should receive my MT-90 sometime this week. I know what I am doing next weekend.

I put the MT-90 in yesterday. BIG DIFFERENCE! All shifting problems are gone. I would say it is smoother than the way the RX-8 came, and that was pretty smooth. What ever they put in definitely caused the problem.

The only odd thing was when I first opened the filler port on the MT about 2-3 ounces immediately came out. I went to particular lengths to insure the car was level before starting the process and, after draining, it took the full 1.8 Quarts before it started coming out again. Hence I believe they somehow managed to over-fill the transmission. Don't know if that contributed to the harsh shifting.

So how did you get it level? Did you use four jack stands at the jacking locations in the manual?

Originally posted by JoeRX8ter
So how did you get it level? Did you use four jack stands at the jacking locations in the manual?

Nothing that easy .....

There is a mild incline (15-20 degree) in my parking pad going up to my garage. I did the following:

1. Backed the car into the garage

2. Placed a pair of Rhinoramps down the incline in front of the car so the top if the Rhinoramp was level with the garage floor.

3. Drove the car out of the garage and onto the Rhinoramps resulting in the car with its front wheels on the Rhinoramps and rear wheels in the garage.

It took 4 or 5 tries to position the Rhinoramps at the right spot on the incline so their top was just level with the garage floor. To confirm the car was level, I first used a carpenter's level on the top part of the door sill with all 4 wheels in the garage, then checked to confirm the same reading with 2 wheels on the Rhinoramps.

This results in plenty of room to work on the Tranny from underneath the car. I used this technique when putting RedLine MTL in my Miata (which is even lower to the ground) years ago. Looks pretty goofy though (I will post a picture).

You know it's a bitch finding any portion of the RX-8 that is "level" when the car is on level pavement, too many styling lines and curves.

I am looking into doing a diff and tranny lube swap to MT-90 and 75W90 over the next few weeks and I was wondering what Mazdas opinion is on this wonderful sounding stuff from redline? Does it screw your warantee on your car in any way, shape, or form?

The RedLine products meet the exact specifications in the owner's manual. Also, Mazda does NOT claim that synthetics should be avoided.

Can't see how this would effect warranty.

Originally posted by msrecant
Nothing that easy .....

There is a mild incline (15-20 degree) in my parking pad going up to my garage. I did the following:

1. Backed the car into the garage

2. Placed a pair of Rhinoramps down the incline in front of the car so the top if the Rhinoramp was level with the garage floor.

3. Drove the car out of the garage and onto the Rhinoramps resulting in the car with its front wheels on the Rhinoramps and rear wheels in the garage.

It took 4 or 5 tries to position the Rhinoramps at the right spot on the incline so their top was just level with the garage floor. To confirm the car was level, I first used a carpenter's level on the top part of the door sill with all 4 wheels in the garage, then checked to confirm the same reading with 2 wheels on the Rhinoramps.

This results in plenty of room to work on the Tranny from underneath the car. I used this technique when putting RedLine MTL in my Miata (which is even lower to the ground) years ago. Looks pretty goofy though (I will post a picture).

You know it's a bitch finding any portion of the RX-8 that is "level" when the car is on level pavement, too many styling lines and curves.

Thanks, great idea. I have a sloped driveway and will give this a try.

Originally posted by JoeRX8ter
Thanks, great idea. I have a sloped driveway and will give this a try.

You can play the same game with two jack stands but it is a little more work to adjust. BTW, make sure you check that the RX-8 is level in both directions (front/back and side/side).

The only trick is that your ramps need to be of a "low profile" design. The outer lip on some ramps will catch the standard RX-8 spoiler and the Mazda air-dam looks even lower. Rhinoramps are designed for cars low ground clearance at either end. They have no lip on the ramp portion and a minimal lip on the top. They were the only ramps that I found that would work with my Miata.

Here is the picture of using ramps under the front wheels, but keeping the car level.

Excellent thread.

Will be picking up the crush washers from my dealer this Friday and doing the fluid change over the weekend (using the recommended Redline fluids). I have access to an "auto hobby" center, so I'll use one of the lifts there.

BTW, the diff and oil pan crush washers may be similar, but they have different part numbers. I'll compare the two and report findings here when I pick up the diff and tranny washers.

Also BTW, I nominate this as another excellent addition to the "DIY" forum

BTW, the diff and oil pan crush washers may be similar, but they have different part numbers. I'll compare the two and report findings here when I pick up the diff and tranny washers.

They are the same size washer, the difference is in their material composition.

If I remember correctly, the rear differential crush washers were brass, whereas the transmission washers were soft steel.

Originally posted by rxeightr
They are the same size washer, the difference is in their material composition.

If I remember correctly, the rear differential crush washers were brass, whereas the transmission washers were soft steel.

I think you're correct.

I just re-checked the DIY link (posted earlier). It looks like the "filler" plug washer is coppery, while the drain plug washer is silver-colored... I forgot to ask the parts guy for a filler plug washer -- DOHH!

I'll examine them all Thurs when they come in, and I'll post findings...

Here's the link again:
Change Tranny & Diffy Fluid (http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/)

Just changed both tranny and diff fluid at the dealership. They used 2.5 qts for the tranny. If this does not sound correct, could someone knowledgeable please let me know? I understood that it was 2.0 (tranny) and 1.5 (diff)

Originally posted by pret
Just changed both tranny and diff fluid at the dealership. They used 2.5 qts for the tranny. If this does not sound correct, could someone knowledgeable please let me know? I understood that it was 2.0 (tranny) and 1.5 (diff)

1.85/1.4 US qts for manual transmission/differential .

2.5 qts in tranny is definitely excessive. Did you watch them do this or are you looking at the paperwork?

rx8cited

Originally posted by pret
Just changed both tranny and diff fluid at the dealership. They used 2.5 qts for the tranny. If this does not sound correct, could someone knowledgeable please let me know? I understood that it was 2.0 (tranny) and 1.5 (diff)

rx8cited is dead on about the specifications.

From a practical standpoint, when I changed my transmission oil it took exactly 2 full quarts. However, I used a few ounces to flush the pump (which had not been used in several years) so 1.85 qts is probably what actually went into the transmission. If you do it right I don't see how anyone could use more than 2 qts unless they slopped over 1/2 qt on the floor.

Now the painful part. The reason I changed my transmission oil was because I didn't like the performance of the brand the dealer had used when I had them change it the week earlier. When I changed it I first very carefully leveled the car. When I opened the filler plug, to my surprise 3 or 4 ounces immediately came out, which means my dealer had over filled it. Probably their lift was not all that level. I suspect (guess) your dealer has over filled yours. You probably need to go check (level the car, put a pan under the filler plug and open her up). If more that 1/2 quart comes out then the mystery is solved.

I will take the advice and check the tran oil myself. I did not watch them, that is what they told me.

shifting is exceptional with the redline brand! Thanks again all!

Originally posted by pret
I will take the advice and check the tran oil myself. I did not watch them, that is what they told me.

shifting is exceptional with the redline brand! Thanks again all!

I would not bother wasting my time. I doubt they had the car so off-level that they put 0.5 qts extra in. They computer system probably just bills for 2.5 qts.

rx8cited

they used 2.5 qts of the oil that I provided.

Originally posted by pret
they used 2.5 qts of the oil that I provided.

I bet all 2.5 qts is not in the tranny - but please let us know after you check :). When I did mine on a level-looking lift, it took a bit under 2 qts as expected.

rx8cited

ok, so my husband was ready to open the filler plug to drain some fluid. his friend that is a mechanic said he sould just bring it back to the dealer. friend said that he sould just bring it back to be checked because it is pressurized and by opening it, it would let air in and would have to be bled. was he confused with brake lines? we have an appointment on monday regardless. his friend asked if there was any loss of power (doesn't seem like it) or to check to ensure the temperture gauge is not sweeping (it was solid, un moving after it reached op. temp)

for those with input, we greatly appreciate it. others are not so friendly. in another post, i edited the screenshot of the search button (which i thought was pretty funny :) ) and was called a a$$hole. oh well, c'est la vie.......

oh..when we made the appointment, the service dept said that the extra 1/2 quart shouldn't do damage.....well, it is still under warranty for 3 more years.

Originally posted by pret
friend said that he sould just bring it back to be checked because it is pressurized and by opening it, it would let air in and would have to be bled.

The manual transmission is not pressurized. The RX-8 shop manual transmission oil inspection procedure is:

1. Position vehicle on level ground.
2. Remove oil filler plug.
3. Verify that the oil is near the brim of the plug port.

OTOH, it doesn't hurt to have the dealership do the work and I have not heard anyone indicate that a transmission would be hurt by over filling.

Glad you are enjoying the RedLine MT-90. It really makes a difference, doesn't it!

Originally posted by pret
ok, so my husband was ready to open the filler plug to drain some fluid. his friend that is a mechanic said he sould just bring it back to the dealer. friend said that he sould just bring it back to be checked because it is pressurized and by opening it, it would let air in and would have to be bled. was he confused with brake lines? ...........

LOL :) ........... I'd really like to know what this "mechanic" is talking about? How many drinks had he put down when he said this? ;)

rx8cited

our friend has not worked on rx-8's. he is a general mechanic (oil changes, suspensions, intake/exhausts, etc..), and i beleive he was just erring on side of caution. he admits he is not familiar iwth the 8. that is why we were inquiring with the 'experts' (members of this forum). thanks again!

Earlier in this thread there were some questions about pumps for installing the transmission or differential oil. Here are some pictures I took but never posted.

First is the pump itself. I believe it was $3 or $4 dollars when I bought it.

Here is a picture of using the pump to install the oil in the transmission.

When you are done, the pump can be used to move the old oil into the empty bottles so you can take it to an oil recycle center.

mscreant, that is really nice pump! Thx for the photos. had the vehicle looked at, it was filled to the filler plug. don't know where the dealership got 2.5 qts from, maybe they DID slosh it on the floor. lol. at least it is not in the tranny. thx again to all for ur comments!

Originally posted by pret
....... had the vehicle looked at, it was filled to the filler plug. ....

Glad you got that all straight.

I'm looking to learn something new to add to my trivia list from your "mechanic" friend . Please ask him what brand/model cars he knows of that have a pressurized manual transmission system?

rx8cited

how about hondas, automatics? r they pressurized?

like i said earlier, he means well, its always good to have another opinion. we take all opinions, even informed ones from the members with a grain of salt. then make a decision. there are alot of knowledgable ppl here on the forum, and we have learned alot. my hubby followed diy for foglight re-wires, oil cooler grills, etc..real minor stuff.

there is alot of good info on the internet, but like any other medium, tv, newspapers, etc,, you can't believe everything you read!

lot of good ppl here on this forum.

Originally posted by pret
how about hondas, automatics? r they pressurized?.......

That for your friend to answer ;) ......... he's the general mechanic telling you this stuff.

I asked my local dealership about using redline. He said he can't stop me from using redline, but he'd have to mark it in my account.

Dealership cost is $80

A local automotive car repair place wants $65

For such a simple job, they both seem over priced. I'm tempted to do it myself, but if the bolts aren't on right, I assume the risk.

I asked my local dealership about using redline. He said he can't stop me from using redline, but he'd have to mark it in my account.

Dealership cost is $80

A local automotive car repair place wants $65

For such a simple job, they both seem over priced. I'm tempted to do it myself, but if the bolts aren't on right, I assume the risk.

The RedLine meets/exceeds Mazda's spec for gear oil and Mazda does not say that one should avoid synthetic gear oil for the tranny/diff. I'm not sure why the dealer is trying to lay a guilt-trip on you.

The $80 figure seems high. My Mazda dealer charged $52 for changing both the transmission and differential oil using his gear-oil. Since then I purchased both tranny and diff RedLine gear-oil from Rosenthal Mazda for $41 (including tax/ship) to replace what the dealer put in (a long, sad tale).

If you don't have the sockets, torque wrench and pump it is cheaper to have someone else install the Redline and it saves you from dealing with the logistics and mess. If you do have the tools, the risk is almost non-existant but there is still the issue of reaching the tranny/diff and the associated mess of any oil change.

Either way, the RedLine is worth the effort.

I just picked up Lucas GL-5 80/90 tranny oil. I couldn't find any redline MTX90. Does anyone know if this will work properly? The manual says GL-4 or GL-5 (75w90). Anyone have any experience with Lucas or with GL-5 80/90?

I purchased Redline for the tranny and differential from Rosenthal Mazda when I ordered my rotary accents, strakes and front splash guards. The MT-90 is a 75W90 that meets GL-4 for the tranny the 75W90 for the differential is a GL-5+ with additive for limited slip differentials. Exactly what mazda requires. I used Rhino ramps and the on/off fluid tool with squeezable Dr. Pepper bottle method (that rx8cited) posted). No problem, and I still have the flotool and Rhino ramps for a total expense of $63.

JoeRX8ter,

Glad to hear the on/off fluid tool with squeezable Dr. Pepper worked for you. So what's your impression of the car with the new juices in it?

rx8cited

BTW: DIY: Transmission and Differential fluid replacement (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=35115) got created recently.

Sears has 8000 pound Rhino ramps right now for 20 bucks the pair, and a 4500 pound jack with 4000 pound jackstands for 27 bucks. Not the best or fastest, but Craftsman has good warranty's.

direct link:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00951170000&subcat=Lift+Equipment

... 8000 pound Rhino ramps right now for 20 bucks the pair....

Too narrow for me.

I bought a pair and did not like the fact that the stock tires were wider, so I opted to pay a few bucks more for the 12000 pound Rhino set which is nice and wide :D.

rx8cited

JoeRX8ter,

Glad to hear the on/off fluid tool with squeezable Dr. Pepper worked for you. So what's your impression of the car with the new juices in it?

rx8cited

BTW: DIY: Transmission and Differential fluid replacement (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=35115) got created recently.

Shifting is smoother and it seems like the gear rollover noise at idle is less. It made a nice gearbox even better. I lucked out on the Rhino ramps at Advance, they had the 12,000# ones on sale. I got the last pair left. It gave me a chance to compare them to the 8,000# ones side by side. They are both the same height but the 12,000# are wider which is good. Since I was not sure that I had the car exactly level, I actually measured out the correct amount of fluid to make sure I got the required amount in. The Dr. Pepper idea was a life saver since I already have that plastic pump and knew that I was not going to use that POS. The pump is OK for siphoning gas, but the hoses are not attached well and they sometimes come off. I could just picture the hose coming off the pump, making a hell of a mess and not having enough lube to finish the job. Thanks for the info on the Dr. Pepper and the Flotool.

I just bought the 12,000 rhino ramps... the thing is, the car is so low, that the ramp is taller than the car's clearance. So I can fit one set of ramps in front of the car, or in the rear, but I can't get the second set on the other side. Any hints? I was thinking about driving up with the front, then jacking the car up in the rear and placing the rear ramps under, but I don't know if the car will roll.

Hey.. if I have just taken my car to Mazda for the scheduled maintenance does this mean that these fluids were never changed? I am assuming so.... Does this pose a problem?

I think that sometimes they replace your fluids, but it depends what servicing (10k mi for example) you came in for. Look in the owners manual and it should tell you.

Okay, before anyone says do a search ( I have)... before anyone says its been discussed before ( I know)..
Would someone just post the name of the royal purple products used in the transmission and the differential. Pllllllllleeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaasssssssseeeeeeeee.

RP is the only thing that I can get my hands on immediately before I take off cross country this week.

MaxGear...I'm assuming its the 75W90 flavor, but since I haven't changed it on my 8 yet I haven't paid enough attention to say that for sure.

jds

Okay, before anyone says do a search ( I have)... before anyone says its been discussed before ( I know)..
Would someone just post the name of the royal purple products used in the transmission and the differential. Pllllllllleeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaasssssssseeeeeeeee.

Thanks.

will using synthetic or anything other than mazda recommend fluids void that warranty in the 6spd manual? or using synthetic oil in the engine........etc diff........

I had mine changed at my dealer so that there would be no warranty issue. They charged me $45 and I supplied the Red Line. The notchyness ( is this a word? ) is gone and so is the whirring noise. Idel is much smother. :D

Is this not part of our free maintanance??

Is this not part of our free maintanance??

If you wait until mile 60,000 or month #48.

BTW, MIKEB don't you drive an AT? I couldn't find anywhere in the owners guide where it states when one is supposed to change the ATF. Is it really supposed to last forever or did I just miss something? :D

If you wait until mile 60,000 or month #48 ........

Even then, Mazda would probably not give us synthetic diff/tranny fluids for free.

Interesting observation on the ATF missing from the service schedules (I and II).

I see mention of ATF only in Service Schedule III (non-US us of US-spec car), but it only says to inspect every 12 months / 12.5 k miles all the way up to end of the period covered in the table: 96 months / 100 k miles.

rx8cited

Just switched my tranny and diff w/Redline... smooth and quiet! Should have done it a couple thousand miles ago.

You guys that changed the diff/tranny oil to synthetic... how often will you change the oil now. every 2 years as per the maintenance schedule; or sooner?

I just got redline in diff/trany.

It was apparent from the first time I shifted that the oils make a difference. Before wasn't bad, but had a grainy feel, now it feels like the gears have been coated in a thin layer of vasoline, it's much smoother and feels great.

If it matters, the oil that came out was clear from both diff and tranny, and the mechanic said he didn't see any metal shavings. The car had 4095 miles at the time.

You guys that changed the diff/tranny oil to synthetic... how often will you change the oil now. every 2 years as per the maintenance schedule; or sooner?

I am planning on using the regular schedule. I am on schedule 2 so that means replacing the oil at 24 months or 30K miles. Having the free maintenance also means they get to do the change but I have to supply the RedLine :D .

On schedule 1 it would be 48 months or 60K miles.

so what are the different products? Can someone post links to each product?

Are they all on this site?

http://www.redlineoil.com/

how about this site?

http://www.paragon-products.com/Visit_our_REDLINE_Store_s/226.htm

You should use the Red Line MT90 (API GL4) in the tranny, and the GL5 '75w90' (not the 75W90NS, which is for diffs with no LSD) in the differential.

S

Does anyone have experience with NEO oils? Ive read a couple places (including www.mazdatrix.com) that seem to prefer it...

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/

Picked up my red 8 in April, noted that my gearbox seemed a bit noisy especially when cold.
I decided to check the level of the MT , to my surprise found it to be 1/2 quart low. This a brand new car right out of the dealerships lot.. I'm not surprised seems nothing is done right anymore.

It is a free item, but not until a couple of years down the road.....
I think they are scheduled to change it at 36k miles? :o
.
.
.
doc

I have 4800 miles.....I did my Red Line changes last night using jack stands. Great transmission just got better. Until you try this stuff you just can't imagine the difference. It has made a sweet ride soooo much sweeter. Thanks all for the product recomendations!

do we have to use mazda's crush washers, or can we go to a local hardware store and pick up something similar to the size? Also does anyone have the size of the washers? I know i can get any size washer from this one hardware place, just need the size of the washers. thanks

Gordon,

excellent instructions and advice for what SEEMS like a real simple something to do. this especially

NO messing about with pumps or squeeze bottles required!

take it from someone who has gone the laying-on-your-back-in-the-driveway-and-f&*(*)@ing-with-a-messy-suction-pump route before (on another car). try getting Lucas and 80w gear oil stains ans smell out of the driveway, your clothes, your carpet, and your hair. just TRY.

I just did this today. All the crush washers are the same size- 18mm.

I just ordered the oils and crush washers from Rosenthal to do the transmission and differential change this weekend. I noticed that they sent me 4 crush washers all the same part number( 9956-41-800). After looking at jdl's DIY at http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/ I saw two different part numbers for the tranny and diff. I contacted Rosenthal and they were unable to give me an answer since the parts tech was gone for the weekend.
Anyone use the same crush washers to change both the transmission and rear differential. Some posts stated that they were the same diameter, but a different thickness and material, is this correct? Should this make a difference in the seal?

Let me guess. The washers you got are the generic-looking aluminum thingys? Well, don't fret, they will do just fine. I went through the routine of explaining to the parts guy that the washer/gaskets were "special" ones for the RX-8 and if he didn't have them would he please order them. He did, I picked them up, removed the plugs and noticed that some of the washers that had been installed at the factory were different from the ones the part people gave me. So I reused some of the old washers and used the new ones where they looked the same.

So, I changed the tranny and differential oil on my RX-7 the other day and used some of the generic aluminum washers I had on hand (probably some of the ones I didn't use on the RX-8) and they worked just fine. As long as they fit, they will crush and seal. Make sure you torque the plugs to spec--especially the drain plugs.

Pardon my silly question, but I have to do this again because Mazda replaced my transmission. This time I think I may try Royal Purple, as I did Red Line last time. Would I use the same weight oil (75w90) in the transmission and the differential, or are they different? I know red line was mt-90, but I'm not sure what it would be in royal purple language.

MaxGear 75W90 is what you want.

Thanks man.

I've looked at RP and Red Line, the dealer wants to use BG. Does anyone know anything about BG? Any thoughts?

I've looked at RP and Red Line, the dealer wants to use BG. Does anyone know anything about BG? Any thoughts?

I have BG Syncroshift II in the trans and BG Ultraguard (75W-90) in the Diff.

Syncroshift II is a little thinner fluid (70W-80) than is spec'd by Mazda. If this makes you uncomfortable - you can do a blend with Ultraguard or pure Ultraguard as it is both GL-4 and GL-5. My preferrence is to stay with a pure GL-4, like Syncroshift II, as it works much better with the syncros as some GL-5 additives are hard on the syncros and can increase wear over time.

With pure Syncroshift II, my trans shifts buttery smooth and it has eliminated the inherent whine this trans notorious for having. The diff is also doing great, though it was generally quiet anyways.

Highly recommend the BG Products as I have used them in several cars with excellent results.

If anybody's looking at picking up some RP 75W90 right now. I just ordered some from americanmuscle.com. Price is $8.99 per quart with FREE shipping. Also use coupon code "mustangboards" for an additional 6% off!

4 quarts cost me $35 to my door. Tough to beat!

ok, so i just bought my 8 and i'm under the impression that the previous owner did not change these fluids. in any event, i'm looking to change them out for piece of mind. my question is, do i need to completely clean out the "pans" before adding the red line in? or will i be good just letting both "pans" drain out for a good 10 mins and then close up and fill with the new synthetic? the local "auto parts guy" told me that it would be bad if i didn't clean out the areas first and just mixed syn with the OEM fluid from before... any advice is apreciated!!

Jesse

There's no pan in a manual transmission. Your parts guy must be thinking of automatics.

There is a very good thread on changing transmission and rear end oil in the DIY section. That should tell you everything you need to know - and then some.

Ken

i thougth this was a thread where i could ask this type of question... anyways, i'm not referring to a pan... just the "housing area" when the fluids go into it. regardless... do i need to flush out the old fluids before putting in synthetic?

shouldn't need to. just open both drain and fill plugs, let it sit till it's empty, plug the drain plug and fill up.

always open the fill plug first!!!!!

I open them at the same time, just to be different.


Also as someone mentioned previously, americanmuscle.com has pretty good prices for rp - with free shipping:

Ordered: 4 45003 Royal Purple Max Gear 75w90 Gear Oil $8.99
================================================== ================
Product Total: $35.96
Sales Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $0.00
Discount: $0.00
Surcharge: $0.00
Grand Total: $35.96

i thougth this was a thread where i could ask this type of question... anyways, i'm not referring to a pan... just the "housing area" when the fluids go into it. regardless... do i need to flush out the old fluids before putting in synthetic?

Definitely is. I saw that you've just joined, and thought you might not have found the thread in the DIY section. Didn't mean to come across as "Search, noob."

You should look for that thread, though, even if all your questions seem to be answered here. It's accumulated over the years. It covers one of about everything that might go wrong...including why you should remove the fill plug first.

Ken

if you open the drain plug first and all the oil comes out and then can't get the fill plug open you've got a real PITA situation to deal with, it has happened ...

well i did see the DIY on this, but it didn't answer the mail, so that is when i saw the thread "change tranny oil", in which i thought the answer would surely be... and i pretty much got it... thanks
]
Definitely is. I saw that you've just joined, and thought you might not have found the thread in the DIY section. Didn't mean to come across as "Search, noob."

You should look for that thread, though, even if all your questions seem to be answered here. It's accumulated over the years. It covers one of about everything that might go wrong...including why you should remove the fill plug first.

Ken

thnx to the awesome diy by pics in this forum, i did mine and it was straight forward. i did need to invent a way to crawl underneath my car while holding my royal purple bottle upside down connected to a rubber hose to fill my tranny and differential.

yamajj

Just changed mine today after only 2500 miles. I've read several posts that indicate that it is wise to change early since there is a good chance of metal filings to be present.

In any event, changed the oil with pure Synthetic and the thing shifts WAY better than before.

if you open the drain plug first and all the oil comes out and then can't get the fill plug open you've got a real PITA situation to deal with, it has happened ...

you could always just pour it through the shifter hole no?

Okay, question: I haven't seen anything about the transmission fluid filter or pan gasket in this thread, and everyone including Mazda told me I would have to change them w/ the fluid. How difficult is it to change this yourself? Everyone in my family who works on cars are all about American Muscle and hot rods, and...they loathe my car :( I love my car, but the extent of car know-how ends at adding gas and oil (guess I'm the typical useless girl when it comes to cars...lol not that I'm saying all girls are useless when it comes to cars; I know that's not true, so don't bash me please...I'm useless, though lol).

Basically, is it worth the extra $70 to have Mazda change it ($100 for parts or $170 to have Mazda change the fluid and put the parts on), or is it really that easy? My husband doesn't really like working on my car (he's a stinking Mustang guy...boo), but he has before when necessary.

Nicole,

You may wish to search for threads regarding automatic transmissions - this one is regarding the very simple manual transmission fluid change. Myself, I would have the dealer do my auto transmission flush if I had one. But that figures that I wanted an automatic in the first place, and thus did not want to do many things manually, like shifting gears or flushing fluids.

(More seriously, though, an ATF change is often a "flush", and for that you want to both be quite careful and have the capability of flushing the fluid through using more than gravity. Careful though - some believe that flushes do more harm than good. Consult your dealer?)

ATF needs to be flushed from the cooler. It can be done with compressed air, but a power flusher may be better. If you don't have an air compressor, forget about it.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID (ATF) REPLACEMENT WARNING:
• A hot transmission and ATF can cause severe burns. Turn off the engine and wait until they are cool before replacing ATF.
1. Remove the oil dipstick.
2. Loosen the oil pan mounting bolts.
3. Drain the ATF into a container.
4. Remove the oil pan and gasket.
5. Eliminate the sealant dust from the bolt hole.
6. Install the oil pan and a new gasket with new bolts.
Tightening torque
o 7.09.0 N·m {7291 kgf·cm, 6378 in·lbf}
7. Add the specified type of ATF through the oil filler tube until ATF level reaches lower notch of dipstick.
ATF type
o ATF M-III or equivalent (e.g. Dexron® III) Capacity (approx. quantity)
o 8.7L{9.2USqt,7.7lmpqt}
8. Verify that the ATF level is in the HOT ( 65 °C {149 °F} ) range.
• Add ATF to the specified level if necessary.