I have started my next project. After having dropped my plans to go forced induction in 2010, I decided to work on a NA build based on this:

Mazmart (http://www.mazmart.com/) Re-manufactured Engine built by Rick Engman
Cobb Flash Tuned by Jeff (http://www.mazdamaniac.com/)
Iannetti Ceramic Apex Seals and New '09 Rotor Housings
Mazmart/Racing Beat Street Port
Engman Oil Porting
Engman Modified Corner Seals
RE-medy Oil Pressure Kit
RE-medy Water Pump
RE-medy Thermostat
Sohn Oil Injection
BHR Ignition
Racing Beat Intake
GReddy Oil Pan from BHR
9 lb. ACT Flywheel from BHR
Samco Coolant Hoses from BHR
Racing Beat Gauge Pod with Autometer Sport Comp Gauges
Racing Beat Race Midpipe with BHR Resonator & Davesport Cat


UPDATE: Mustang 4-Wheel Dyno in 4th Gear with CAT: 190 hp / 136 tq (Compare to 164 / 127 baseline that day)
Look late January for a DynoJet plot in 5th gear and no CAT, where I store my original chassis baseline. :)

"All of our rebuilds get lapped flat housings, modified cornerseal springs, balanced rotating assemblies, modified front oil thermostats, specially clearanced side seals and more. Mods can include: Oil passage mods to front and rear flat housings, oil mods to stationary gears, polished eccentric shaft, eccentric oil jet installation, bearing pre-break in (Lapping), front cover oil and water mods, shimming of primary oil pressure reg, installation of our Ceramic seals and our water pump. Some port work is sometimes an option also."Paul Thomas at Mazmart

The throttle body was ported and polished by BDC Motorsports, yep even on a NA engine. The upper intake manifold and secondary runner joints will get minor plastic port cleanup and aluminum coated outside. The lower intake manifold has been ceramic coated outside by BDC Motorsports (http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=14986). Brian also updated the SSV. Rick Engman ported the APV sleeves per Racing Beat templates. On the discharge side, the engine remains emissions compliant, with a 100cpi catalytic converter, RB midpipe with BHR resonater, and the RB connecting pipe and Rev8 dual can mufflers.

I'm going to need help with the engine swap, as my arthritis is on the increase it seems. Not as young as I used to be it seems. Any takers? Come on Dan, you know you like wrenching and Lee's food! Timing will be April.

Nemesis: your car is going to be a MONSTER!
I can't wait to see the finished results.

Sounds good! GOOD LUCK! I always wanted to see a BEASTY RENESIS.

Nice list, is Mazmart doing all the work?

Yep, on the engine that is. All the intake work is being completed by Brian at BDC. As for wrenching the swap, once everything is ready, well that is where I need help.

I will bribe help with :beer05:

If i knew how to do it i would donate my time for free just for the CREDIT.... but i know nothing. :sad:

Nice! Looking forward to seeing the new engine installed.

Man I would love to assist on this install. I will be installing my RE-medy OP kit this weekend. too bad my rebuild isn't a Mazmart rebuild with a street port and ceramic seals. Other than that our goals are pretty similar.

That is awesome, can't wait to see the end result. Doing big things here.

Good project ahead!
You said that you're undecided with your flywheel... why don't you get a bhr flywheel\clutch setup? :)
Less rotating mass, less unsprung weight and better quality than ANY other commercial flywheel out there!
Starting the engine with BHR's ignition as well, since you're going to use an accessPORT, would be cool for both the benefits that the yukon coils give and the addition of the extra dwell settings...

Add a sports catalyzer and you'll be drivining a monster :)

I'm looking for around 9lbs on the flywheel. (I currently have the Mazdaspeed version at 12 lbs.)

I have a BHR you can look at if you want :) Better hurry up though before I finally put it on the car ;)

LOL - is it a one piece or two piece?

Sounds really nice, good choices with companies to do the work and make the components, all absolutely top notch. Is the plan to keep this motor naturally aspirated for the long term or will you go forced induction at some point? Is the car for street use with mild track use or a purpose built track car? Look forward to seeing your progress. :)

Three counting the counterweight :)

I'm sure he won't let me beat on his new motor ;) We had fun with the old one though :)

Hi Kevin,

I'm willing to come down and help out on the weekends. Be happy to help out but am not experienced with pulling the engine. Have done Tranny twice though. Let me know when you have the weekend set and I'll block out some time.

I recommend the Racing Beat or BHR flywheels. The BHR clutch sounds nice as well.

My god those apex seals are expensive.

Why not go with the Esmeril Racing apex seals for 1/4 of the price?

My god those apex seals are expensive.

Why not go with the Esmeril Racing apex seals for 1/4 of the price?

By all reports the Ianetti seals are the absolute best seals available for rotary engines. They are world record quality, and while I couldn't stomach the price myself I certainly understand why someone would buy them. The Esmeril seals are reasonably priced, and initial reports seem positive, but there is very little data about the seals long term benefits. I'm tenatively planning to use the Esmeril seals myself, so by no means am I badmouthing them just to be clear.

Is the plan to keep this motor naturally aspirated for the long term or will you go forced induction at some point? Is the car for street use with mild track use or a purpose built track car?

This engine will stay NA for it's life, and be for street use and mild track use.

My god those apex seals are expensive. Why not go with the Esmeril Racing apex seals for 1/4 of the price?

I thought about building a second motor for FI in 2011. If it happens, the FI project will take place very very slowly, and will move my car to a track sled, so I can spank dannobre at ORP (http://www.oregonraceway.com/) one day.
:lol2:

Bring it on big guy :lol:

add another 60% to the cost of running ceramic apex seals because they require new rotor housings to go with them

Wow. What a project. Cant wait to see how it turns out.

i'm up for some grunt work. just tell me when. ;)

I have a BHR you can look at if you want :) Better hurry up though before I finally put it on the car ;)

Dude.. You still have that sittin in your kitchen?

I remember seeing that last year on the first mechanical day at your place.. When we popped on Colin's coilovers.. Ha :)

i'm up for some grunt work. just tell me when. ;)

Same here :)

damn, looks like its going to be a beast of an engine.

Dude.. You still have that sittin in your kitchen?

I remember seeing that last year on the first mechanical day at your place.. When we popped on Colin's coilovers.. Ha :)

I'm waiting till my OEM clutch goes....so far the damn thing is good as gold....

I have a modified transmission and the clutch to put in.....this winter if I get the time in the shop I want :)

Modified transmission? do you mind to pm me about it? :)
/ot

Sounds great - look forward to seeing some results .

Have a look at doing a long header with a joiner back past where the cat sits .

As much as I would like to do that, like Mark Pickering and Eric Meyer did, I will be using my Racing Beat header.

While I wait for the engine and intakes to be built, I have started another project.

I will also be building a custom midpipe by modifying a Racing Beat race pipe. I will add the Davesport performance metal core 100cpi catalytic converter, along with a Vibrant stainless steel race muffler or the stock OE resonator. I have the race pipe sitting in the garage and was only used once at ORP. I thought about hacking up my dual resonated Racing Beat midpipe, by cutting out the front resonator and selling it to somebody that might be reading my thread - hint, and welding in the Davesport. But I would hate to hack up that beautiful piece of workmanship. Those RB welds are sweet looking. There are multiple reasons for building this.

As thick as that pipe is any welder worth their weight in salt should be able to make pretty welds

and please don't fall for that long tube hype, the people who keep yammering about it have selectively chosen not to acknowledge the other results demonstrating equivalent output, and while being emissions legal no less ....

^ Yes, I agree with your take on the welding. And by the way, thanks for replying to my hint. Our factory has welders with over 20+ years, so I will ask the boss if I can get a "government" job completed on the RB race pipe hack. Are you still still interested in the front RB resonator off their midpipe if I choose to hack it up? That is, if I don't like the Davesport/Vibrant RB race pipe result?

Thanks, but I already bought something esle. You shouldn't have any problem selling it on the forum.

Nem--sounds like a sweet build.
get a 150psi oil pressure gauge:)
if you are doing lim work trying to reduce heat soak--there are spots on the lim that can be opened to help ventilate it, casting marks inside the manifold that can be removed and work to be done on the vdi.
you will also need a true phenolic lim gasket as the intake has a rather large footprint on the engine and that alone will heat soak it!!. i have pics around somewhere where i did mine---
dont forget to get your injectors balanced and flow tested-i was surprised about the ones i had!.

i am seriously looking at getting a better oil cooler thermostat. you may want to look at that?
Wish i was there--
olddragger

Hey OD - thanks for looking at my build. The 150 range could be a problem, as I have the Racing Beat gauges, and it goes to 100 PSI, unless there is a swap for it. Also checked out your LIM awhile back when you did that work - real nice by the way, and will follow on what you did. I need to bounce some ideas off Brian at BDC. Yep - injectors will get a tune up. I'm sure this will nickel and dime me as I go, but so be it. I'm not going to cut corners as you can see.

The newly designed SSV is here. Notice that the bronze bearing has a relief machined into it. It is covered with a wrap to keep the grease from drying up.

The engine goes back next week to Mazmart :cool:

So jealous. :P

FYI: Racing Beat may have a higher pressure range oil pressure gauge they can swap out for you.

they don't have an '09 kit yet but may have a gauge that will work.

That block will have more miles on it than your car ;)

Keep me in the loop for when :)

+1. I'm definitely down for showing up and helping out.

rb uses auto meter gauges and auto meter has a 150 one.
Thats an oem intake gasket?
Going to port your TB?
Hard to set around new parts isnt it?
i was outside today in 37f weather working on this alzheimers delaying thing.

OD

That is good news - will call them to see if they will swap me, or I'll just buy one here locally. Yep - new LIM gasket for the block. I am working on a spare LIM currently, and the gasket that it came with needed replacement. TB has already been ported by Brian at BDC.

At least I get a big break on freight charges where I work. It cost me $180 to ship that motor 2800 miles. Dannobre does have a good sense of humor about the miles it will have on it. LOL

Wait till you guys see the UIM when it is complete :p:

Are you making a polished aluminium UIM ?

I'm aluminum plating an OEM manifold after it gets cleaned up a bit.

Sounds like the BHR Flywheel is in the mix now. I need to see if my Mazdaspeed counter weight will work with it. At first glance it looks promising.

I don't think you will get any benefit from the AL plating or Ceramic coating.

That's not the point of doing it ;)

Blliiiiiingggggggg :)

LOL

You will shit your pants when I tell you how much it cost to ship the motor back to Atlanta - take a guess :lol:

Company Perk :) You guys ship much bigger crap all the time

haha $112 to ship 236 lbs clear across the US.

It arrives Monday for Paul to unwrap - this is going to be fun

Brian has pics up on his website for those interested.

BDC Motorsports (http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=14986)

Teaser pic attached

:D:

Ill come do some engine pulling. Haven't worried about pulling a Rx8 motor yet but have pulled plenty of motors in the past. Make sure you have a BFH and a big ass screw driver.

I smell a D**K measuring contest ;)

I love you guys :) LOL

I smell a D**K measuring contest ;)

I love you guys :) LOL
http://www.jiggyjigg.com/forums/images/smilies/big/biggay.gif

HA HA ...you're funny .....

lol...boredom is what it is

I have a sh-tload of mod work for the next month, no boredom here :uhh:

I have a sh-tload of mod work for the next month, no boredom here :uhh:
well I'm snowed in watching the kiddies till the wife comes home
sigh

The waiting is the hardest part... I'm not going to push Paul and Rick on this one.

I smell a D**K measuring contest ;)

I love you guys :) LOL

Ill bring a Deluxe Dick's for you.

a few posts deleted, drunk posting and secrets are not a good combo ...

but you have a premier Renesis engine builder only one state away, hopefully the wait won't be too long

Yep - Oregon does have talent - that's for sure.

add another 60% to the cost of running ceramic apex seals because they require new rotor housings to go with them

If you want the ultimate in sealing, then yes.

so the plan seems to be changing :suspect:

I'm on the fence for new housings... Trying to sell crap to make my decision easier. Paul said I could use the existing housings.

sorry, I just assumed you already had them planned :dunno:

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142754&d=1248482370

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142752&d=1248482370

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141903&d=1247184393

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141902&d=1247184316

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142753&d=1248482370

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132556&d=1232893828

here are some pics i hope than be off some help.
the gasket is a true phenolic gasket--to help with the heat convection.
you can see where i have sealed the vdi area (working on another project to that area), removed the jet air little tubes and smoothed all that out, opened up some of the casting to help "vent" the unit a little, wrapped the fuel rail(gas temps get to 180f here!!) etc.
WORD OF WARNING---REPLACE THE GASLINE THAT ATTACHES THE TWO FUEL RAILS TOGETHER--DO NOT USE THE ONE THAT CAME OFF THE CAR. THE CONNECTORS CAN LEAK.
OD

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142754&d=1248482370

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142752&d=1248482370

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141903&d=1247184393

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141902&d=1247184316

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142753&d=1248482370

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132556&d=1232893828

here are some pics i hope than be off some help.
the gasket is a true phenolic gasket--to help with the heat convection.
you can see where i have sealed the vdi area (working on another project to that area), removed the jet air little tubes and smoothed all that out, opened up some of the casting to help "vent" the unit a little, wrapped the fuel rail(gas temps get to 180f here!!) etc.
WORD OF WARNING---REPLACE THE GASLINE THAT ATTACHES THE TWO FUEL RAILS TOGETHER--DO NOT USE THE ONE THAT CAME OFF THE CAR. THE CONNECTORS CAN LEAK.
OD
If you don't want to seal the VDI (i wouldn't in a NA car) you can still work that area a little. For "a little" I mean that you have to grind less than 1mm off of it's border (i use a pen\marker first to do some tests) and slightly polish it.

WORD OF WARNING---REPLACE THE GASLINE THAT ATTACHES THE TWO FUEL RAILS TOGETHER--DO NOT USE THE ONE THAT CAME OFF THE CAR. THE CONNECTORS CAN LEAK.
OD

Thanks for this tip! I'm getting a spare set of rails from dannobre, so I'll take your route and replace the line. Looks like you heat protected them also.

I like your gasket OD - real nice

sorry, I just assumed you already had them planned :dunno:

If I can sell the midpipe (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=189104) I'm there.

i lot of people are now not using the vdi---but to each his own. It makes the world more interesting. Like american football players , playing in Italy!
What I have in mind --since i have sealed mine is to drill out a big area where the "valve used to be. Why? I dont have a clue. It will just look different.

You FI guys sure are looking for every detail to achieve perfection.

If I can sell the midpipe (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=189104) I'm there.

congrats :)

Thanks - the RB street port templates will be there Friday.

Thanks - the RB street port templates will be there Friday.

cheater :mchase:

What color should I paint the irons?

Velocity Red!!! :)

haha - good one. But you know, that might be a great color for the irons. I was thinking of blue maybe...

:cool:

They'll be faster!

a few posts deleted, drunk posting and secrets are not a good combo ...

but you have a premier Renesis engine builder only one state away, hopefully the wait won't be too long

All your deleting makes my comment make no sense :)

The RB street port templates are out for delivery!! Paul should have them today to study and comment on. There is APV work included in the RB instructions...

All your deleting makes my comment make no sense :)


You're assuming that it made sense originally :lol:

I wasn't drunk ;)

the gasket is a true phenolic gasket--to help with the heat convection.



Where did you get that?

^ I think OD had it made custom.

That is awesome I just read an article about the advantages of Phenolic gaskets.

Paint the irons if you'd like but don't do the front cover or rotor housings. You'll regret it later.

B

Yes sir - that is the plan - iron only. :D:

Did you decide dump the emissions systems?

No. I will be running the Davesport 100 cpi cat on the new engine. Currently I am back on the stock midpipe cat for awhile.

This is a great thread, I am so jealous! I have a feeling my motor is about to give out on me, and I plan on using your build as reference when I get mine done.

I'm very interested in high-power NA Renesis builds. Its great to see someone from our community taking these steps. Can't wait for it to get done!

100 CPI - sweet!

Here is the ID of the cat 3.262"

It will slip over the OD of the Racing Beat pipe.

That's way too big. 3.262" ID - 3.0" OD = 0.262" diameter difference :dunno:

:squint:


.

I remember Jim Langer told me the OD of their pipe was actually bigger than 3.0" - I can't find that e-mail. Let me call him and post back.

Was on hold forever with them.... I hung up and will try later.

Nemesis8

Did you previously purchase a motor which is why you are sending it to Mazmart? If not then why not buy a motor from them?

It is a Mazmart engine. Remember the "Full Moon Sale"' they had awhile back? I nabbed up a Rick Engman reman motor. That is why Dan was giving me grief over the miles the motor will have on it traveling back and forth from Washington to Georgia - LOL

Rick is going to replace the housings and apex seals, and street port the irons.

It's easy enough to flare out the ends of the pipe to match....

^ Yep

Jim measured two pipes just a minute ago. One was 3.002" and the other was 3.005".

That's way too big. 3.262" ID - 3.0" OD = 0.262" diameter difference :dunno:

Flare the outboard end of the midpipe or tig and rod.

I'm sure you know more about it than me ....

I'm sure you know more about it than me ....

Its metal, it moves ;)

Flare the outboard end of the midpipe or tig and rod.


Gotta be close to a god to TIG a 1/4 inch gap closed.....;)

Gotta be close to a god to TIG a 1/4 inch gap closed.....;)

just lay enough multiple beads .... :lol:

Remember 3.262 - 3.002 = .260 then divide by 2 for the gap. So .130" at the most.

:rolleyes:

nemesis: thanks for posting pics of the davesport cat.
I'm really tempted now. damn you.

;)

LOL...I'd still flare the pipe.....if you want a pretty weld it needs to be closer than that

Remember 3.262 - 3.002 = .260 then divide by 2 for the gap. So .130" at the most.

:rolleyes:


I was just surprised that it doesn't come with proper fitting tapered ends of the appropriate tube sizes. :dunno:

Sure you can flare, taper, etc. the pipe ends, but that's not the point. Sometimes things are more than they seem.

You of all people should know you get what you pay for ;)

sometimes you have to pay to get what you want/need

Usually you have to pay more to get something that works best :lol:

Comeon Kev....we are getting bored here crapping on your thread :)

who is "we"? :lol:

The "crappers" as it seems :)

sometimes you have to pay to get what you want/need

Sometimes you just have to learn to fabricate yourself. :nono:

It is a Mazmart engine. Remember the "Full Moon Sale"' they had awhile back? I nabbed up a Rick Engman reman motor. That is why Dan was giving me grief over the miles the motor will have on it traveling back and forth from Washington to Georgia - LOL

Rick is going to replace the housings and apex seals, and street port the irons.


Man, I have been kicking myself in the ass ever since that sale. That price was a steal.

Mark is King of the Fabricators..he just buys expensive parts :)

( and sells them to me cheap when he changes his mind ;) )

Comeon Kev....we are getting bored here crapping on your thread :)

LOL

Waiting on Engman to finish a turbo 13B for another customer.... I might be up next.

the man works all the time.
OD

Can't wait for this build to be done. I'm curious how much power that port job will give the Renny... Definately will have to have a NW meet when this is done!

Can't wait for this build to be done. I'm curious how much power that port job will give the Renny... Definately will have to have a NW meet when this is done!


You and me both bro :ylsuper:

I'm curious how much power that port job will give the Renny...

you've never seen Charles R Hill's dyno sheet?
I had his car on a dyno here in SoCal last January and it was a beast. If it's okay with Nemesis I'll post it here. Might give him something to shoot for with his car... :evil_laug

you've never seen Charles R Hill's dyno sheet?
I had his car on a dyno here in SoCal last January and it was a beast. If it's okay with Nemesis I'll post it here. Might give him something to shoot for with his car... :evil_laug

Let's wait until I get mine broken in and dynoed... I don't want to be upstaged by the ah powerful RotaryGod port project! :eek:

Nemesis, Will there be less smell with the Davesport 100cpi CAT than running a straight pipe?

I look forward to seeing your results Nemesis, I think this is going to be a fantastic build.

I look forward to seeing your results Nemesis, I think this is going to be a fantastic build.

Not sure, but you would think it would be way better. Maybe swoope could chime in on that question. :dunno:

I am doing to this for the wife BTW. Tired of the straight pipe complaints :spank:

I look forward to seeing your results Nemesis, I think this is going to be a fantastic build.


Thanks master Jedi - wish me luck! :D:

My wife has made a few comments to me about the smell. I can deal with it but if she is saying something then I know it is bad. Her main complaint is the smell filtering into the house.

^ Gotta keep the "war department" happy these days, that's for sure!

Paul can fix it - damaged APV sleeve in shipping. The bolt also broke earlier this month.

Snapped the pin also.

Can it easily be replaced if he can not fix it?

Fixing it will be replacing the pieces - no problem at all.

Good new :) Hopefully will not cost much.

Dan has the parts ;)

Bah hell! It broke during shipping?? How the heck did that happen? I had it boxed up a way where I was trying to keep anything from hitting or stacking on those two sleeves!

B

No worries...have spares :)

Bah hell! It broke during shipping?? How the heck did that happen? I had it boxed up a way where I was trying to keep anything from hitting or stacking on those two sleeves!

B


Remember Jim Carey's opening scene of Pet Detective? That's how. :lol:

No worries...have spares :)

Do you have one of the small pins also? I will be in Michigan next week, so if you want to send the stuff direct to Paul, that would be cool. I'll discount that resonator down to nothing for you! ;)

It's not easy to ship. You need to build a wood box, diassemble the sleeves, or use an oversize heavy cardboard box and a ton of packing.

Bummer - Dan just said that his two spare sleeves are cracked in the same spot. He does have the linkage arms and the connecting shoulder bolts. Looks like I need a sleeve.

bad news then, those aren't available as separate parts from Mazda

OD to the rescue---i THINK i have one rolling around in a drawer somewhere:) I will look for it and let you know.
OD

Yo 'da man Denny if you find it!

bad news then, those aren't available as separate parts from Mazda


Well, I do know where two are, but they are currently being used on my car - LOL

Well, I do know where two are, but they are currently being used on my car - LOL


That's a good backup plan...cause they are an easy swap to put them on

These are mirror images aren't they....

Not really They are different..


One has an F cast into the other doesn't

They have different positions of the openings...they aren't just mirror images...

They have different closed profiles on the back as well

I gotta bug Paul and see if Rick is wrenching yet - they need the APV sleeve to do some port matching on the street port project.

Couple people working on engines with them pulled, you might try a WTB thead in the Classified forum

Couple people working on engines with them pulled, you might try a WTB thead in the Classified forum

Took your advice. Hopefully Denny has the correct one. I need the rear rotor sleeve.

Thread Here (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=190261)

Vyndictive has a complete LIM, and came to the rescue. Thanks teamrx8 for the idea.

Paul said that Rick is stacking one for Jim Downing, and I am up next. :icon_tup:

The moral of the story is to unbolt the sleeves and ship them loose :angel:


.

Yup.......They are dammed fragile...My spares got broken sitting in a parts bin with nothing else on top of them......:( Way easier to take them out than to chance them breaking....or install the manifold in the engine..that would be the best place :)

Yeah - lesson learned. That is how it is being shipped to Paul by Vyn

Note from Paul: Rick has begun finishing the templates since they only scribe the shape in steel and it has to be cut out.

:icon_tup:

how much power can be expected from porting?

The moral of the story is to unbolt the sleeves and ship them loose :angel:


.

I'll keep that in mind next time. I'm honestly surprised they broke given the size of the box they were in plus the cardboard around the part itself (which was packed inside shipping material within the box!)

B

how much power can be expected from porting?

If I am lucky, something like this attached. I am shooting for 220+ at the wheels.

I'll keep that in mind next time. I'm honestly surprised they broke given the size of the box they were in plus the cardboard around the part itself (which was packed inside shipping material within the box!)

B


No biggie B

Your still on my Christmas card list :p:

your goal should be 235+ rwhp ....

I'll keep that in mind next time. I'm honestly surprised they broke given the size of the box they were in plus the cardboard around the part itself (which was packed inside shipping material within the box!)

B

We all are, no knock on you. This is how we learn.

I didn't realize you're in Dallas. Moving back there in April. Hope to meet you some time.

Mark



.

Oil galleys opened up. I need Paul to send me some pics.

Mark, where in DFW will you be moving to? We're in Grand Prairie at the moment. May move a bit south 20 or so minutes.

B

The newly designed SSV is here. Notice that the bronze bearing has a relief machined into it. It is covered with a wrap to keep the grease from drying up.

Looks like you can sell the original one to this guy

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=191477


B, that remains to be seen. My preference is the area west of DFW airport, but that's not firm. I lived out near Keller previously.

Brian still has it.

Hey B follow up on that lead and keep the money if you sell it.

The old one was cracked and broken. He's better off getting one from Curtis James.

Posting what Paul sends me...

Wait until tonight. He did not send them in order. LOL

Pics

More

And more

And more more

And more more more

And more more more more

And more more more more more

And more more more more more more

Last ones for now

Now, just so everyone knows, I went over my budget. Shopping in Paul and Rick's garage is like a kid in a candy factory. I did oil galley mods for instance, new rotor housings, etc. But getting the LIM repaired added unforeseen labor.

:eek:

Denny keeps talking about eliminating the jet air tubes.... discuss

jet air tubes - they are there for a reason .

They are under vacuum...

From Eric Meyer's thread:

Yes, but it's a direct, focused stream of air that will aid fuel atomization at small throttle angles where there is little intake air in a large volume

it's a fuel economy/emissions strategy, nothing more

..... and the Jet-Air nozzles are intended to alleviate the fuel puddling in the LIM that was prevalent on prior rotary engines. The nozzles hardly have enough surface area to be a concern with airflow obstruction.

I still don't get it - man my skull is thick today. Why not plug the line? Or better yet, put those nozzles under nos pressure? LOL

hmmm NOS . Now you are talking .......

I thought they helped prevent fuel puddling which aids in prevention of flooding .
I doubt that removing them would achieve anything as CRH noted above .

rb uses auto meter gauges and auto meter has a 150 one.

This one? The 2-1/16" size?

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2880&sid=15

Loving the pics! You getting excited yet?

Yes, 52mm

I have the Prosport gauges with RB adaptors, not installed yet though, soon

Excited? Hell yea!

I have everything to complete the engine except injectors, fuel rails, and OMP lines and dribblers. I was going to use the existing ones off the OE motor, but I might source more new parts - yes I am crazy.

Thanks for the 52mm nod

I'm in discussion with someone about purchasing the shortblock from one of my used engines and m ay have some or all of those available to sell used. Just that much less stuff for me to pack and haul to Texass ....

cool

I might have a set of rails coming, but let me know on the others. I have time.

Awesome project. Just awesome.

Thanks, and my wallet thanks you also. ;)

any pics of the al. coated UIM ? Very interested to see how that works out .

Not yet - I still am working on cleaning up the ports a little. There is a ridge that needs to be trimmed inside the manifold. As soon as I get that completed, it is off to get coated. I bet within the next two weeks.

The new engine is getting Idemitsu oils:

Idemitsu Racing Rotary Engine Oil 20W-50 (Full Synthetic) (http://www.ilacorp.com/images/web_20w50.pdf)
Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix) - Synthetic Blend (http://www.ilacorp.com/images/web_premix.pdf)

Going to run 1/2 oz per gallon of gas for premix, and also run the premix in a separate Sohn adapter reservoir for the OMP dribblers.

Yes

Everyday is like Xmas in this thread!

Everyday is like Xmas in this thread!

Indeed.

LOL - my belly is getting rounder...

:eek:

coated housings?
Arent you going to be running ceramic seals--or am i confusing your build with someone elses?
Why coated housings with ceramic seals?
What coating is that anyway?
Pineapples?

What?

Coated "Upper Intake Manifold" silly. Man has to have some bling in his old days!

bad news then, those aren't available as separate parts from Mazda


I did track down a part number for each:

N3H2-13-B60A
N3H3-13-B60A

But I'm not sure you can get them.

I'm looking for a small powerful battery to relocate against the firewall. Any pointers here?

Update: Paul received his check today, so I'm arranging the truck for pickup of the engine for the journey home.

Did they run and break it in on an engine dyno?

I wish, but that was not on the list to do.

Rick did something extra that I'm not sure of yet. He told Paul, "Hey I also did...." and that is where Paul left me hanging.

Put it on the list before it's too late

and please, no more fan belt pics :op:

It's crated, but I could consider this. Let me think about it.

Those are awesome underdrive belts by the way - LOL

Put it on the list before it's too late

The motor is being picked up Friday

What is wrong with this picture?

:rollingla

wrong way - GO BACK! lol

^ Yep, it came that way from Racing Beat... Tempted to send it back so that Jim can show the RB team member, that put it together, what he/she did.

^ Yep, it came that way from Racing Beat... Tempted to send it back so that Jim can show the RB team member, that put it together, what he/she did.

do it. this is a teachable moment. ;)

In looking at my reservoir, it has a level switch. Dan, you mentioned that I may be able to use the sensor plug for the coolant overflow tank as a source for power to light up an indicator maybe. Not sure how to make that work?? What should I measure?

I would just wire it to the sensor and see what happens....

You could check it with a meter if you want...it's likely a NO switch full...and Closed empty to turn the light on.....

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=182793

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=182793

Well, that answers my question.

That's cool - the connection uses standard electrical spade connectors. I'll wire it up tonight and see if it throws the dash light for low coolant.

And now the schedule planning starts...

Quick! Poke a hole in the shrink wrap!

Don't unwrap and post photos - might break the forum porn rules .

What exactly was the final cost on this lovely project?

It's not final yet...

It's not final yet...

^=$$$$$$$$

Should I stamp my serial number on it? :p:

Should I stamp my serial number on it? :p:

stamp your screen name on it. ;)

christmas came early.

The ceramic coated LIM looks so nice, I wished now that I would have coated the front cover also...

Schedule looks like I will pull the OE engine first weekend in April. Working out some details... Then an April 30 - May 1st intall of the new engine.

You could polish it on the engine quite well....That would look cool :)

Wire wheel?

You can buy kits with different grit wheels and polishing sticks...I have one that has rag wheels and 4 different grit sticks....all th way to rouge...which is very shiny :)

It will oxidize again anyway...so ?

Yea, ceramic would have been the bomb...

I found some new OEM coils in my garage. They are part #N3H1-18-100A-9U. What changed in them in the newer N3H1-18-100B-9U version?

I read somewhere on the board the coils changed in 2007 (I think). I will see if I can find the thread to see if they said what changed.

Ash8 posted this but no details of what actually changed.

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2887774&postcount=6

N3H1-18-100 Superseded to an A at Chassis # Change JMOFE1031--104511, up to 2006 MY

N3H1-18-100A Superseded to a B at Chassis # Change JMOFE1031--105465, 2006 to 07 MY

N3H1-18-100B is still the current COILS used in production for Series II (09) RX-8's also and late Series I (2007-08 MY)

SO the new coils (B) fit all RX-8's, Mazda US have a locally sourced coils with a -9U on the end of the part number.

Thanks for the search :o:

Well, maybe I'll just use them anyway since they are new. I posted in that thread to see if those in the know will let me know.

:confused:

Thread is kind of quiet right now... waiting on a few last minute items before the swap begins. Fun should start the week of May 10th.

I noticed the Drip Oilers on the rotor housings part number changed from N3H114631A to N3H114631B. Anybody know what changed? I'm going to reuse my old ones, but was curious what they cost. At $59.16 each, I hope mine will be OK. I had one of those early 8's that just never liked to drink much oil.

Courtesy of great customer service, pricing, and delivery, I give you one of my last pieces of the puzzle. Weighing in at 9 lbs.

:D:

pretty....

man it is getting close to building time!

man it is getting close to building time!

I have started the dis-assembly. Injectors are out, and will head to Injector-Rehab for cleaning and flow balancing.

crappy cell phone pics - LOL

can't wait to see the results. subscribed!

can't wait to see the results. subscribed!


Thanks for following - injectors at Rehab and will ship Monday. the Intake is plated and shipped the 29th. Getting close to install date on the 14th.

Counting on Charles to get those Samco hoses to me, but that will not hold us up if they are late for the party.

Got the oil reservoir and battery tray complete.

Installed

Got the oil reservoir and battery tray complete.

what did you use for the oil reservoir there? i'm gonna need one as well for the sohn omp adapter and haven't found anything that works just yet...