I'm trying to decide which cooling mod or mods to do to my 04 RX8. I've got over 65k on the clock and I'm going to be taking a lot of road trips for work soon. I am worried about the increased heat of playing on the highway for long periods of time.

I was thinking of one of two of the following mods:

Beatrush Under Panel ($180)
RaceRoot's Oil Cooler Fans (Driver/Passenger/BOTH sides) ($195/$390)
RaceRoot's AC Fan Control Unit ($135)
Re-Medy Water Pump/T-Stat Combo ($300)
BHR's Radiator ($550)

Now I am kinda strapped for cash ATM, but which mod/mods would give me the most cooling for the cost?

Any input is appreciated.

BHR radiator or koyo radiator.

For the money.....since it's tight........I would go with:

RaceRoot's AC Fan Control Unit ($135), but at highway speeds most of the time, this won't be any real issue. If you are stopping at lights and stuff, then the A/C Fan is a good one.

I think the water pump would be the outright best(Mazmart one!)

fan control unit is good as well, I only said radiators because you can easily tell if it is working or not and the fact that he listed something up there for $300, but I guess a radiator is still kind of up there in price.

Mazmart Water pump / thermostat.
Then BHR Radiator.

I think last on the list would be the oil cooler fans since you're worried about temperatures at highway speeds, I don't see these helping you at all. I think the fans can help in stop-n-go traffic but the airlow is already sufficient at highway speeds. The key at that point is to make sure your coolant temps are under control.

Mazmart Water pump / thermostat.
Then BHR Radiator.

I think last on the list would be the oil cooler fans since you're worried about temperatures at highway speeds, I don't see these helping you at all. I think the fans can help in stop-n-go traffic but the airlow is already sufficient at highway speeds. The key at that point is to make sure your coolant temps are under control.

You are right about the Oil Fans. At highway speeds they really can't help my overall temp since i'll be moving anywhere from 50mph to 80~mph.

that's why they keep me around. ;)

btw: I have Mazmart's water pump, thermostat. They're excellent products.

The BHR rad is also an awesome upgrade. I've had it on my car for a while now and I've quite a drop in my coolant temps

BHR radiator or koyo radiator.

Hasn't the Koyo radiator been proven to cool worse than the OEM one?

small secondary radiator that looks cool and cost less than $100.
It is the most effective cooling mod out there--especially when used with the mazmart pump.
olddragger

btw: I have Mazmart's water pump, thermostat. They're excellent products.

The BHR rad is also an awesome upgrade. I've had it on my car for a while now and I've quite a drop in my coolant temps

Thats exactly what I wanted to hear. I was about to do some searching, but if Jedi says it, it must be so...:lol:.

small secondary radiator that looks cool and cost less than $100.
It is the most effective cooling mod out there--especially when used with the mazmart pump.
olddragger

That was another Idea I had, but I have the AEM CAI, I don't know where I could mount a small radiator with the OE front bumper.

Hasn't the Koyo radiator been proven to cool worse than the OEM one?

Yes, I believe that to be a true statement.

I did not know it cools worse than the oem one but I thought it was cool for the price. I know BHR works well.

The oil cooler fans are not needed in my opinion unless you are a track addict.

Just the Mazmart waterpump, and thermostat are the best bang for the buck. My car runs 10-15 degrees cooler on the freeway than before the pump and thermostat. Start with that.

Thats exactly what I wanted to hear. I was about to do some searching, but if Jedi says it, it must be so...:lol:..
thanks L337 :)

Just the Mazmart waterpump, and thermostat are the best bang for the buck. My car runs 10-15 degrees cooler on the freeway than before the pump and thermostat. Start with that.

Perfect.

thanks L337 :)

Np man.

So Easy_E, for the installtion of the Water Pump...

Lets see if I have this right....

Drain all coolant, remove the drive belt(s) (yes?), remove the old water pump and T-Stat, install, re-attach the water pump pulley, and put the belts back on.

Correct?

I run a little more distilled water than antifreeze mix. I'm probably at 65 water 35 antifreeze. Although I don't drive it in the winter at all.

Perfect.

Lets see if I have this right....

Drain all coolant, remove the drive belt(s) (yes?), remove the old water pump and T-Stat, install, re-attach the water pump pulley, and put the belts back on.

Correct?


Don't forget to refill the coolant ;)

Alright I just ordered the T-stat from Mazmart and im getting the water pump off kersh4w (THANK YOU).

I found the service manuals and found the water pump removal section. My question is, is there anything I should know before I start unbolting everything? Or if I need a SST or some odd socket size?

The oil cooler fans are not needed in my opinion unless you are a track addict.

At track speeds you don't need the oil cooler fans (they might also reduce the flow at high speeds) because you've got enough flow through the oil radiators.
Slightly opening the vents in the wheel wells will help. Not too much though, there should be a diy that shows what i'm meaning.
That's a free mod too!

l337, good choice of products, i love my water pump!
Bhr or mazmart radiator would be the next upgrade. Panels and fans are not going to help much. Instead of wasting money on that you could just save up for an accessPORT and takecare of the fans without having to cut hoses etc ;)

l337, good choice of products, i love my water pump!
Bhr or mazmart radiator would be the next upgrade. Panels and fans are not going to help much. Instead of wasting money on that you could just save up for an accessPORT and takecare of the fans without having to cut hoses etc ;)

I have a AP with MM maps right now. I did see that DIY for the oil coolers, but I don't really want to open those splash guards up to more road debris. The roads in my area are garbage.

I was thinking about replacing the radiator when i hit the 100,xxxmi mark.

But after this, I'll keep up with reliability mods. BHR Ignition, RaceRoot's SyncroSaver, etc.

I am a douche bag, I don't come to the sushi meets anymore


At least you are honest :yesnod:

At least you are honest :yesnod:

Burn! Sick Burn! I'm coming to this month's meet!

Burn! Sick Burn! I'm coming to this month's meet!

I'll believe ye when me shit turns purple n tastes like rainbow sherbert!!!

I'll believe ye when me shit turns purple n tastes like rainbow sherbert!!!

:uh:, Don't call me radio unit 91.

Would it be worth it to replace all of the Hoses? I was looking at the Samco 6 Piece Kit. Is there really a major increase in cooling by throwing those on as well?

If you can "somehow" get the Mazsport fan mod then that would be the best choice.

I'd then recommend the RE-medy water pump and thermostat.

Don't bother with the radiator, especially the Koyos.

what's the use of the cooling fan if he already has an accessport?
anyway that device can be built for like 50-60$ at home :)

what exactly does the aftermarket water pump do to help with cooling? does it just circulate faster or something?

what exactly does the aftermarket water pump do to help with cooling? does it just circulate faster or something?

RX8 RE-medy Hi Flow Water Pump (http://mazmart.com/ItemDetail.aspx?id=265)

This high flow RE-medy water pump is designed to prevent cavitation at engine speeds as high as 10000 rpm. It is a direct fitment, as OEM and comes with a new Mazda OEM gasket. 6-month warranty.

Its my understanding that it works better, pushes out more coolant, and keeps the coolant pressure up even at high rpms. If coolant pressure drops to low, you'll get a bubble in your coolant system which will impead/stop flow. Am I correct?

from what I understand, at high RPMs, (7000 to 9000), the pump begins to cavitate. Rather than actually pumping the coolant, it churns it around inside the pump itself. This is due to the poor impeller design on the OE pump. You can see the difference in the pics on the Remedy thread.

WAit wait wait....what is everyone talking about?

You're worried about long ROAD TRIPS? on the HIGHWAY? At normalish RPMs?

You don't need any modifications to the car unless MAYBE if you're planning on being in a lot of stop and go traffic in EXTRMELY hot weather. Like traffic jam in texas in august at high noon kind of conditions. Or if you're running on constantly high RPM's like in a racing scenario, but you said you're worried about highway driving.

I'm so confused....this is a MODERN CAR, people...in stock form it's well-equipped for driving on the highway, even with a LOT of high-RPM sprints or "fun" thrown in the mix as well.

Also - if you have the accessport already, that does the same thing as the "cooling fan mod". The Koyo radiator has been shown by a number of people to offer no cooling benefit over the OEM radiator. New/different/aftermarket radiator hoses....will not change anything except look nicer. Again all of these things only pertain to high-termperature scenarios, which driving on the highway should not include.

Just....wow.

^ +1

If you want to keep it more within this thermostat range you can use the AP maps to turn the fans on earlier, or bump the speed up earlier. The fans come on when the A/C is running anyway. If you have the AP maps, dual oil coolers, and you are just doing daily driving there is absolutely no need for any cooling modifications. None. When do the factory Rx-8 fans come on at something like 98 C or about 210 F. They could come on earlier, but even then that's not that bad. A lot of subaru's have their factory fans come on at 203 for low speed and 210 for high speed, just to put things in perspective.

Let's review some rotary facts here. The factory Renesis thermostat cracks open at 82 C, right around 180 F. The thermostat does not fully open until 95 C or 203 F. You can run the car all day long at 200 F and absolutely nothing will go wrong with it. It's been like that since the 12A in the Rx-2. The basic temperature range of a rotary has not changed at all in almost 40 years, although cooling system capacities and fan control systems have. First Mazda went from a sort of on/off engine fan clutch (fan was engine driven, not electric) on the earlier 12A's to a fan clutch which would gradually increase the speed of the fans as the temperature increased.

Then on the 13B's they had this progressive fan clutch plus an auxiliary electric cooling fan that come on at various temperatures depending on the model, but usually around 95 C or 203 F, right when the thermostat opened fully. On the FD Mazda went to a 3 speed, dual electric cooling fan system with an aftercool function. The fans were controlled by four relays. Two relays were switched by the ECU at 103C or about 218 F [sic], that would run the fans at low speed. The electric fans were also triggered by the A/C, which would turn on one relay to bump up the fan speeds or switch them on if they hadn't been turned on by the ECU yet. Finally, the FD had an external thermal switch that triggered another relay to enable max fan speed at 108 C (226 F). The engine ran very hot and it's amazing how long they did last (70-90k mile coolant seal failre was not uncommon). The aftercool function only came on if the engine had been running at 108C/226F for a couple minutes before the engine shut off.

Depending on various factors, many people drove stock Rx-7's around at 220 F all day every day for years and now we have people freaking out that their water temps are 195 degrees or something, where the thermostat hasn't even fully opened yet. Clearly the FD has big cooling issues, and I'm not trying to say that we should run our cars that hot on a continous basis. But it puts things into perspective a little.

I can bust out all the service manual pages to back this stuff up later when I get home from work.

I'll believe ye when me shit turns purple n tastes like rainbow sherbert!!!

That............will............be............the. ........day......... when I learn........... HOW TO FLY:mdrmed:

Hey guys I live in southern california and our summer heat can get up to 120 degrees. I usually have to drive in a 30 minute or more traffic jam to get to work. I'm lucky to see 15 minutes of highway speeds. Where would i start?

Hey guys I live in southern california and our summer heat can get up to 120 degrees. I usually have to drive in a 30 minute or more traffic jam to get to work. I'm lucky to see 15 minutes of highway speeds. Where would i start?

See the above posts....don't worry about it.

This is the problem with car people, as much as they/I hate to admit it; people don't think before they yell MODIFY!

So Easy_E, for the installtion of the Water Pump...

Lets see if I have this right....

Drain all coolant, remove the drive belt(s) (yes?), remove the old water pump and T-Stat, install, re-attach the water pump pulley, and put the belts back on.

Correct?

Don't forget that you have to remove the alternator adjustment bracket to remove the thermostat housing and the water pump.

WAit wait wait....what is everyone talking about?

You're worried about long ROAD TRIPS? on the HIGHWAY? At normalish RPMs?

You don't need any modifications to the car unless MAYBE if you're planning on being in a lot of stop and go traffic in EXTRMELY hot weather. Like traffic jam in texas in august at high noon kind of conditions. Or if you're running on constantly high RPM's like in a racing scenario, but you said you're worried about highway driving.

I'm so confused....this is a MODERN CAR, people...in stock form it's well-equipped for driving on the highway, even with a LOT of high-RPM sprints or "fun" thrown in the mix as well.

Also - if you have the accessport already, that does the same thing as the "cooling fan mod". The Koyo radiator has been shown by a number of people to offer no cooling benefit over the OEM radiator. New/different/aftermarket radiator hoses....will not change anything except look nicer. Again all of these things only pertain to high-termperature scenarios, which driving on the highway should not include.

Just....wow.

I did. Repeat. 120 degress for 30 + minutes. Car completely Stoke. Concerned if this MODERN CAR was design for this heat. Thats all.

Call me paranoid, but I've had lots of issues with my car (I was the second owner) all of which did not include the engine.

That being said, I want to keep my engine nice and cool at all times.

Now when I said I'd be doing lots of Highway driving, I'm talking over 9 hour drives. I know I have a drive to Florida in the spring (17 hours).

BUT i also drive to work and school and do sit in a decent amount of stop and go traffic.

I'm just trying to keep my engine running for as long as it can, with my driving habits in mind.

elyscium---have you ever driven an rx8 in traffic jams when the ambient temps are 100F?
With a temp gauge or someway to monitor coolant temps.
I dont think you have? Or you wouldnt be saying that.
Yep 200F all day long NP--BUT,trouble, is this car will get to 230F easy-- plus a lot of people do not run heavy enough oil(added problems). Look at the cooler placement on this car---HARDLY NO AIR FLOW.
The FD has a much better flow through its cooler.
OD

Dude Pettit makes a secondary cooler install that fits in the bellypan--that way your intake will not be in the way--check their site.
OD

Dude Pettit makes a secondary cooler install that fits in the bellypan--that way your intake will not be in the way--check their site.
OD

I'm failing to find it on their site. The only thing they have on their site cooling related is TT Thermal barriers for rx7's and a hose kit for rx8's.

you have to call Cam---he makes them on demand. It is what he runs in his own car.
Several people have them.
Its a really neat set up. Cheaper than a new radiator.
Go in the Pettit thread (Owners) and do a search in that thread for a picture)
olddragger

this car will get to 230F easy

That's because of the factory fan programming, hence the advice about reflashing the ECU to turn the fans on at a lower temperature.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146784&stc=1&d=1255398798
Renesis cooling fan control system

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146785&stc=1&d=1255398798
13B-REW cooling fan control system

On the Rx-7 the common practice is to switch the fans on at low speed around 87 C or so (189 F) in the ECU and then bump them up to high speed at 95 C (203 F). You'd be surprised how hot engines run from the factory and how long they last anyway. Here's a table from a DA1 1987 model speed density 5.0 Mustang computer:

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146787&stc=1&d=1255399077

That's as hot as the FD! Clearly engines can run a lot longer than you think at very high temps. If you drop the fan control trigger speeds down it'll be fine, there's no need to go overboard.

Now thats a good piece of data arghx7, good work.

I nabbed Re-Emedy Water Pump and T-Stat. I'll log my average temperatures before the Re-Emedy install and after. We'll see the differences. I am using FL-22 coolant in my system and MM Maps flashed.

nice data and its good to share --now tell us something we dont know.
rb's flash has been turning the fan at 180F for a few years now(long before cobb)
fans would help more if the rear part of the radiator wasnt mostly blocked--but fans will never take the place of proper airflow.
Are you saying it is ok to run this car at 230F
OD

I'm trying to decide which cooling mod or mods to do to my 04 RX8. I've got over 65k on the clock and I'm going to be taking a lot of road trips for work soon. I am worried about the increased heat of playing on the highway for long periods of time.

Heat on the highway is not really a problem for most, so I'm not totally sure what you are worried about here - not where you live, anyway.

Beatrush Under Panel ($180)

If you have an OE undertray, this will do nothing for you at all.

RaceRoot's Oil Cooler Fans (Driver/Passenger/BOTH sides) ($195/$390)

These do absolutely nothing, especially at highway speeds. Worse than nothing, actually.

RaceRoot's AC Fan Control Unit ($135)

You have the AccessPORT - it already controls your fans significantly better than the MazSport external controller.

BHR's Radiator ($550)

This works well (might be overkill if you are just worrying about highway performance) and would be the 3rd most important step.

The FIRST most important step is to seal your radiator (either your OE unit or the BHR if you go with it) to the tray and panels inside the engine compartment.
The OE foam barely works and is usually gone by the time the car gets to 60k miles.
For quick/ghetto/easy, you can just use that "Great Stuff" expanding foam.
A prettier option is to use high-density foam and rivet it to the plastic bits around the rad.

koyo radiator.

Do NOT do this. They are shit.

Hasn't the Koyo radiator been proven to cool worse than the OEM one?

Precisely.

small secondary radiator that looks cool and cost less than $100.
It is the most effective cooling mod out there

Definitely not.
It is helpful (especially in track situations), but it is going to be beyond the level of involvement of the other options and provide the least improvement.
I have one in my car (and its far away from the other rad with its own fan, not pancaked on top of the OE rad like OD's, effectively making it a radiator pre-heater) and it is a supplement, not a primary improvement.


You can run the car all day long at 200 F and absolutely nothing will go wrong with it. ... many people drove stock Rx-7's around at 220 F all day every day for years

Correct. Mazda doesn't even think your motor is warmed up until it hits 205°!
You are good all the way to 230°F, at which point the PCM will start to take countermeasures.
The only issue is that 260°F is the end of life for the Renesis, so its a fairly small window. Coolant mixture turns out to be the most important ingredient in controlling that window.

plus a lot of people do not run heavy enough oil(added problems).

Please review the current discussions on oil to understand why this statement is irrelevant.

Dude Pettit makes a secondary cooler install that fits in the bellypan--that way your intake will not be in the way--check their site.
OD

Terrible design for a multitude of reasons (and no, not just because Moon did it).



rb's flash has been turning the fan at 180F for a few years now(long before cobb)

The RB flash came out 3 months before the AP. Not exactly "long". lol


fans would help more if the rear part of the radiator wasnt mostly blocked--but fans will never take the place of proper airflow.

Actually, the factory air path is pretty decent.
The exit "port" area is larger than the face of the radiator, so flow is not impeded by that.
Its only the partial change of direction that is "bad" and its not bad.

Sweet jesus jeff, colossal input!

Now you mentioned that coolant mixture is quite important. Is the Mazda FL22 coolant proper or is there a better fluid?

Now you mentioned that coolant mixture is quite important. Is the Mazda FL22 coolant proper or is there a better fluid?

Stick with that, but use the lightest mixture possible for your climate.

Stick with that, but use the lightest mixture possible for your climate.

You got it Jeff. Thanks again. I'll have some logs for you after my install this weekend. BTW the car feels much stronger just with 4.0.1, I can't wait to get my next map done so I can get into the performance tunes.

Anyway, back on topic.

Now the FL22 comes premixed, correct? If it is to potent, what should it be diluted with? Distilled water right?

I had forgotten about the foam MM---good advice.

We respectively disagree about the secondary radiator and thats cool. My secondary radiator is approx 2 feet from my oem radiator and once again I will challange anyone on its effectiveness in lowering coolant temps over any other single cooling mod. If it is a "preheater" doesnt that mean its working well?

I also disagree on the blockage behind the radiator but lets just leave it at that
what % of angle change in airflow do you think iis occuring?
I didnt know the Cobb unit was released 3 months after the RB flash was released? Dang--i probably would have gotten one if I had known then. Learn something everyday. I just remember it didnt solve tenp issues--it did help a little.

Hasnt 230F shown to cause damage if allowed to happen frequently or for a long period of time? Narrow window is absoulutely right.
Lets not debate oil on this thread OK. I just added it as an addentum tipe hint to the op's oridginal ?
Good input.
olddragger

Hasnt 230F shown to cause damage if allowed to happen frequently or for a long period of time? Narrow window is absoulutely right.


Is this damage potential due to the limitations of water or ethylene glycol & water or is this due to some other issue such as loss of oil viscosity or excessive thermal expansion? I'm asking because I know some folks on the boards here are using Evans waterless coolants (Assuming nothing goes wrong, I will be one of them by the end of the week) which maintains a much higher boiling point than pressurized water or pressurized ethylene glycol and water. It occurs to me that at 230F average coolant temperature, water or ethylene glycol and water should be experiencing localised boiling at the hottest points of the engine, putting thermal and mechanical stress on various areas such as the exhaust passage coolant seals. This was one of the reasons that I chose to make the conversion.

I'm trying to decide which cooling mod or mods to do to my 04 RX8. I've got over 65k on the clock and I'm going to be taking a lot of road trips for work soon. I am worried about the increased heat of playing on the highway for long periods of time.

I was thinking of one of two of the following mods:

Beatrush Under Panel ($180)
RaceRoot's Oil Cooler Fans (Driver/Passenger/BOTH sides) ($195/$390)
RaceRoot's AC Fan Control Unit ($135)
Re-Medy Water Pump/T-Stat Combo ($300)
BHR's Radiator ($550)

Now I am kinda strapped for cash ATM, but which mod/mods would give me the most cooling for the cost?

Any input is appreciated.

Everything you wrote here, or from what I saw in this thread indicates to me that you actually have no issue, but for some reason believe you will have an issue.

It also is Fall and you live in PA, according to your sig. Unless you are leaving the northeast the cold weather will only benefit your cooling system. Also, most of highway driving is low load + high speed = good cooling. Some bursts at high load here and there should not be a problem.

Bottom line, I just don't see anything to indicate you have to spend money because you *might* have cooling issues.

Save your money, watch your AP, and add mods if your temps are consistently high.


As for mods, 3 best we've experienced at the race track:
-Mazmart Water Pump
-70/30 Water coolant mix
-auxiliary rad mounted like a FMIC, or on a modified undertray like Pettit

Everything else wasn't even close in effectiveness.

How about relocate the air-cond condenser to stay horizontally above the bottom plastic cover, right behind the front bumper main vent?

not an expert but from what i understand it is due to the different metals used in this engine and the thermal expansion issues of each?
OD.

not an expert but from what i understand it is due to the different metals used in this engine and the thermal expansion issues of each?
OD.

Yep.
The whole stack twists and changes shape as it overheats because of the different rates of thermal expansion possessed by the iron and aluminum.

Hasnt 230F shown to cause damage if allowed to happen frequently or for a long period of time?

Even though I wouldn't ever encourage anyone to run their car that hot, Mazda has been doing it since at least 1992 when they switched to electric fans for the FD. Does it do damage? Well I'm sure it doesn't help the coolant seals in the long run, and all that heat may contribute to the sparkplug area cracks that are sometimes found on rotor housings in higher mileage engines.

That's why I say that changing the fan control temperatures will have the largest marginal benefit for most cars out there. If you trigger the fans to turn faster at a lower temperature, the motor will hardly ever see 220 or 230. And yet it can already handle those temps continuously.

Even though I wouldn't ever encourage anyone to run their car that hot, Mazda has been doing it since at least 1992 when they switched to electric fans for the FD. Does it do damage? Well I'm sure it doesn't help the coolant seals in the long run, and all that heat may contribute to the sparkplug area cracks that are sometimes found on rotor housings in higher mileage engines.

That's why I say that changing the fan control temperatures will have the largest marginal benefit for most cars out there. If you trigger the fans to turn faster at a lower temperature, the motor will hardly ever see 220 or 230. And yet it can already handle those temps continuously.

This leads me to suspect that the failures of water seals and especially the cracking around the spark plugs is caused by localised hot spots, not mechanical stress from simply having the engine hot enough to drive the coolant to 220F-230F. Put another way, I don't think it's the high average temperature that is the problem. I believe that the problem is due to localised boiling creating a pocket of steam that allows a spike in temperatures in the effected areas, precisely because at 230F, pressurised water or water/ethylene glycol mixes don't have enough reserve capacity unless you've modified the cooling system to run at twice normal pressure. Now I do realise that would be a hideous project as normal radiators, hoses, heater cores, and coolant seals in the engine are not designed to withstand that much pressure; however, if it were (and I'm talking about absolute pressure, not pressure above ambient) then the boiling point should increase to over 900F, well above the point where the metal would be too weak for us to care.

For my own purposes, I decided to follow in TeamRX8's footsteps and use Evans waterless coolant. At ambient pressure, it gives me a 370F boiling point and the -79F freezing point is low enough for my purposes. In fairness, I had seen the Evans coolant used two decades ago in boingers running 16:1 compression in racing conditions with coolant temperatures that none of us would even consider in SCCA GT-class racing. I do realise that our engines have very different mechanical stresses from thermal expansion than boingers do, which is why I am not planning on running as high temperatures as they were racing with; but I am interested in improving the engine's efficiency without breaking it.

I know this means I am trying something different, and it might bite me in the keister for my trouble; but I've waited two decades (I was driving an FB back then) to try this in a rotary.

Evans IROC-Z '89 Camaro

Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. (formerly Mecca Development) Built, Owned, & Operated SCCA GT-1 / Trans-AM, NPG Development Car. The 335ci V8 ran a compression ratio of 16:1 and was - on every race - pushed to ever higher levels of performance, accumulating record after record for fast laps, pole positions and wins.

additional cooling passage modifications are done in the leading sparkplug area (also in the exhaust port area) using that exact line of thought. Evans? Hmmm--never thought about that in relation to this--but I do see the lodgic invloved. Plus if you keep the temps below 230 wouldnt that even be better? Evans is it a pita to do and maintain?
OD

additional cooling passage modifications are done in the leading sparkplug area (also in the exhaust port area) using that exact line of thought. Evans? Hmmm--never thought about that in relation to this--but I do see the lodgic invloved. Plus if you keep the temps below 230 wouldnt that even be better? Evans is it a pita to do and maintain?
OD

Conversion is a PITA but maintanence is a non-issue if the conversion is successful. Since there's no water and Evans isn't an electrical conductor, it doesn't promote corrosion the way water-based coolants do. The key is to make sure that there is an absolute maximum of 5% water, and 1% or less is preferrable. To do the conversion, you want about 2 gallons of their prep-fluid and 3 of NPG+ or NPGR. NPG+ is rated for the lifetime of the car. NPGR, according to Tom, the tech at Evans, should be swapped out every 5 years in a street car (their web site still says every year for NPGR for a race car and every other year for NPGR for a street car).

Is the thermostat used in the RX-8 the same as used in any previous rotary?