Okay so I took my car in for a stalling issue and they are waiting for warranty approval but basically they told me my coils are shot (which were replaced by the dealer less than a year ago along with the wires and plugs) and that I will need a new engine.

This will be my third engine in 95k. I would just like to say that this second motor got religious 10W30 Castrol GTX oil changes every 3,000 miles and got redlined everyday. My first motor only lasted 22k and only saw 10W30 Mobile 1 with oil changes every 3k. I'm glad I'm getting a new engine at 95k but In my opinion the Renesis is just not up to life in South Texas. I will premix from day one with this third engine but I don't see the point in going with a heavier weight oil. But for shits and giggles I might.

I must state that the second motor running 10W30 Dino did last 50k more than the first engine did but I still think in this day and age a motor with regular oil changes should last at least 150-200k.

wow i cant believe your on your third motor, im a fairly new owner to the RX8 and the more i read these type of post it leads me to believe this is more of an underlying cause...Ive seen many boosted setups runing fine, and many older 13b motors with much work done to them holding strong....

im sorry to hear abou this....can you shed anymore light on maintence of your car

I'm on my 4th engine and presently the car has less than 60K miles. They seem to all die in August.
I've started using 10W40 oil and premixing. It seems like when I premix, I get better gas mileage.

4th engine and the car has less than 60k miles on it? thats 15k a motor sounds like poor driving habits and lack on maintence to me, like i said im very new to the rotary power plant, but the 13b does not seem to be that weak after the research ive done....

Im almost at a loss for words

^You sir are a dumbass.

alnielsen knows what the hell he's doing. He's been around a rotary longer than you probably have been alive.

time to run some synthetic :)

lulz...i know you are against synthetics, but hey...maybe royal purple was right about their claims :)
http://www.royalpurple.com/faqs-rotary.html

^You sir are a dumbass.

alnielsen knows what the hell he's doing. He's been around a rotary longer than you probably have been alive.

Oh ya im a real dumbass huh, the dude went through 4 motors with average life span of 15K....so what i have not been around rotary as long as most of you, i know enough to know that is not right....

Oh ya im a real dumbass huh, the dude went through 4 motors with average life span of 15K....so what i have not been around rotary as long as most of you, i know enough to know that is not right....You absolutely correct, something isn't right. And, that is why Mazda extended the warranty on the car.
The mode of failure for each of the 3 were different. #1 had a warm start issue. It had a bad apex or corner seal. #2 would sputter when I first started the car in the morning. It was found to have a coolant leak into the second rotor housing. #3 would die at idle after it was warm. It had bad compression on one lobe of one rotor. I suspect a bad side seal. Of course the Mazda dealers don't open the failed engines to give us a complete postmortum, so the exact failure isn't known.
On each of these the oil was changed by the dealer as they supplied me with free service coupons. Now that the car is out of warranty, they don't give them to me anymore. I am putting in a heavier weight oil & premixing in hopes of making this engine last longer.

You absolutely correct, something isn't right. And, that is why Mazda extended the warranty on the car.
The mode of failure for each of the 3 were different. #1 had a warm start issue. It had a bad apex or corner seal. #2 would sputter when I first started the car in the morning. It was found to have a coolant leak into the second rotor housing. #3 would die at idle after it was warm. It had bad compression on one lobe of one rotor. I suspect a bad side seal. Of course the Mazda dealers don't open the failed engines to give us a complete postmortum, so the exact failure isn't known.
On each of these the oil was changed by the dealer as they supplied me with free service coupons. Now that the car is out of warranty, they don't give them to me anymore. I am putting in a heavier weight oil & premixing in hopes of making this engine last longer.

Thanks for shedding more light on your motors, i find it strange that mazda does not fully strip down they motor to find out the exact cause of failure...How was the process of getting new motors through mazda....did they give you a lot of crap?

They do strip the motors, just at the dealer.... -_-

Well I believe there are a few issues that are all the result of poor design. This particular motor has had religious oil changes with 10W30 Castrol GTX every 3k miles as well as premix with UCL (over the last few months which was probably too late, I admit). I am fanatical about maintenance and check and add oil every fill-up because my consumption on this motor has always been high. I have also done double oil changes on a few occasions to get out dirty oil after hard runs through the hill country.

Since my divorce 1 1/2 years ago my cars daily highway mileage dropped from 80 miles a day to about 10 miles a day but my car gets driven the way it was meant to be driven and it gets redlined daily. The only thing I can think of that I didn't do is premix from day one.

Everyone has opinions but most of them are just people talking out of their asses. I guess on this third motor I will run 10W30 and premix and see how long its lasts. Good thing its paid off.

damn dude this sucks... makin me worried now :(

Damn dude... that really does suck. I am thinking mine is on the way out too.... was noticing some high revs with no power yesterday, hoping it was just the heat.

An observation:
My first three engines got poor gas mileage. This present engine, which should be a rebuild from the new Virginia center, got reasonable mileage for a rotary. I actually achieved 20 mpg in mixed, mostly expressway driving in June. I am presently getting 220+ miles to the tank. Where as before, I was getting 150-180 to the tank. This is with an average 13 gal fill.

Yeah it does suck. Actually my first engine got the best gas mileage (about 22MPG highway) and to be honest the last trip I took on this engine was 170 miles and I averaged 20MPG highway. How hot is it where you are? it has been averaging over 100 here for the last month or two.

Yeah it's been super hot in Houston as well (my parents said it's been triple digits for ever haha) Its about 80 here and have been averaging 21mpg 90% fwy on 1st engine. I need to start premixing even though its too late to make a significant difference :/

After reading why you had to have them all replaced. It looks like it was mostly due to poor installation and crappy parts... not so much the engine. Like the coolant and the apex seals.

Seems like they would have figured out how to swap an engine, after all they do it a lot...

Yeah it does suck. Actually my first engine got the best gas mileage (about 22MPG highway) and to be honest the last trip I took on this engine was 170 miles and I averaged 20MPG highway. How hot is it where you are? it has been averaging over 100 here for the last month or two.

May/June has varied. 60/70 for a high one day, mid-90's for the next. Today should be in the mid-80's.

After reading why you had to have them all replaced. It looks like it was mostly due to poor installation and crappy parts... not so much the engine. Like the coolant and the apex seals.

Seems like they would have figured out how to swap an engine, after all they do it a lot...
I would have to dissagree. The failures were internal to the engine. I don't see as to how it was a engine installation issue.

At one point last year there was a bad lot of coolant seals floating around rebuild shops. Ask Eric Meyer of Meyer Motorsports and Adam Whitener of ROAR Racing. And the main culprit in my opinion is the excessive heat that is built up due to the side port configuration. We'll see how things go in the 09+ models with the addition of a modified OMP and a 3rd oil injector.

My first motor died around 36k, it never got anything above 22mpg...this rebuild I have now has over 40k on it and I get 25+mpg on my long trips with conservative driving. I have always had rough idle issue and now it's a little sluggish before 4k, but I think I might just have clogged primary injectors.

There is a lot of speculation and to be honest I have not heard of a daily driven engine that spent its life in a hot climate make it to 100k. To me its just sad since I have owned boosted cars with twice the WHP that have lasted 100k on a rebuild.

I love the rotary feel, power curve, etc. But damn this car makes it hard to love. Owning and RX-8 is like dating Jessica Simpson, damns he is fine but you just wanna punch her in the damn face sometimes.

9k, sorry about another engine.

but in my opinion, the main cause for all these "engine deaths" came from the light weight oil they recommend. 2nd is the whack OMP injection nozzle location.

I got my 7 for almost a month and I've been researching it day after day, that's why I wasnt on the 8club that often.

and the "common" knowledge on the 7club is most people use at least 10w40 lots of ppl use 20w50. RotaryGod probably knows that.

Im not sure about the FD but for FC's owner's manual, they dont really "recommend" you to go for one oil only, they give you a chart and you will decide whats best for you.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141766&stc=1&d=1246896948

I know they have something like that in the 8's manual too, but the point is that most people just "too ignorant to think whats best for their cars, they always want a free lunch or "simple" way out, Mazda knows that, so to shut them up, they have to just "recommend the customers with something", and in 8's case, its 5w20"

Look at the chart, 20w50 gives you the "widest" range of protection for different weather. not to mention if any of the 8 owners look closely to the oil's sheer rate, as the temp increase, thinner oil is getting weaker and weaker. 5w20 has enough protection MY ASS!

Great for EPA/CAFE, not so great for ANY engines.

And most people might said "hey I use 5w20 and my engine still works !" Thats good isn't it? I know my engine having problems, last sept I did a compression check outa my pocket, it was still within spec. so ? I still got all kinds of random stalling. 1/2 year later the compression dropped from 7 range to 5. Butt Dyno never really noticed anything, it did feel slower, but I (even Kevin) wasnt' expecting the comp. numbers drop so fast in just a few months.

some might say "so what, you used heavy oil ur shit still failed, so it has nothing to do with it"

Well, how about this, if I didnt change my shit to something heavier, my engine could've gone "kabooooom" way before that?

OMP design + feeding 4 cycle oil was an uber failure, but its a failure that Mazda HAS to make, this engine would NEVER sell if U gotta tell the buyers that oh yeah, you gotta fill that Tank with 2 cycle oil every 1K miles or so. Most users have zero clue about what kind of car they're getting, how could Mazda expect them to know wtf is 2 cycle oil ?

Thats all I gotta say for now, my grandfather passed away this morning and I have to take care a lot of shit with my father. *sigh*

Good luck with your replacement 9K. peace.

Yeah according to that chart even my 10W30 is not up to the task. I guess maybe 20W50 then? I really don't wanna mess with it but maybe even the SOHN adapter.

b4 I leave the house

you are in Texas, u never have to worry about freezing weather, so just go for 20w50.

even Im thinking I can probably live with 20w50 in NYC, might try it this year. and u know Im a synthetic ass and synthetic can withstand cold weather better than dino.

okay so now they are telling me that they need to get the 02 code cleared and replace the coils (which are less than a year old) before they can get the engine replacement approved. Which of course because of the mid pipe the code won't clear for long so.... I'm guessing I need to swap the stock cat back in.

I use Shell rotella synthetic 5w40 for my mazda and I don't have any issues. Granted, I have a 626, I don't see if there's any difference using the same oil for the 8's

The saga continues, now they want my oil change receipts.

The saga continues, now they want my oil change receipts.
They did for me too. I told them that they, the dealership, performed the scheduled oil changes. It ended that real quick. Now I keep a record of when it was done on mazdausa.com.

The saga continues, now they want my oil change receipts.

I have a feeling that Mazda is watching these kind of forums closely to see who is who ... and might or might not ask for certain information when needed.

like me, call me a whining little bitch all you want, but I probably love my car more than my gf (rofl) and everybody knows it :) my car's warranty repair history is longer than Mazda(or dealership) would like to see. Its not hard to find out which car is mine.

or, it depends on dealership. who knows :)

i had the same issue, i have friends at a oil shop and had them write up a fake history of my cars maintenance. since i do all my oil changes at home.
some may say this is crocked but i know i maintained my car above and beyond the requirements, and my engine failed and then mazda asks me to prove that i put oil in it completely pissed me off.

if you cant find anyone in the auto industry to write you some maintenance documents.
i suggest you go buy some 5w20 from your local shop and scan the receipt and modify the date and start printing them with varying dates. its fairly easy to do and they shouldn't ask for the original receipts.

damn dude.... i was just about to ask how you were able to slip the midpipe past them.... I know jigga couldnt even get his engine looked at with it on.

my motor just died a couple hours ago...

04'
54k miles
dealer did all the oil changes for just this kind of scenario...

We'll see how long it takes them to fix it.

How do this apply to the 100k mile warranty?
Do they just go by the chassis miles, or is it 100k per engine replaced?

Its the first 100K miles.

not 100K per engine

but I think all Mazda parts when installed by dealership gets 12 K miles/1 yr, so if your engine dies at exactly 100K miles, and they replace it, you will get another 12K miles/1 yr on it.

damn dude.... i was just about to ask how you were able to slip the midpipe past them.... I know jigga couldnt even get his engine looked at with it on.


Yeah they haven't mentioned the mid pipe, just the rear 02 code but I talked to the tech and asked him what the code for low 02 would have to do with it and he said nothing, so I gave him my oil receipts and he said that would suffice. So now the ball is in their court, I just left the service dude a message. I just hope they own up to it. Besides I also have an extended warranty til' 100k so that should help as well.

i am dreading taking mine in.... but i want the oil changed and tires rotated by saturday

they sure are in a hurry to take your fucking money
when you buy the car but man when you have to have it fixed it a whole other story.

oh yeah...NP is notorious for that. I dropped the car off once on a Friday, they didnt bother to look at it till the following tuesday... how FU'd is that

My past experiences have been good but damn right away he called me to tell me my coils were shot. I said, "is that your answer to every rx8 problem?" I told him I would like to talk to the tech about how he tested them and he changed the subject real quick and said he still thinks the engine needs to be replaced and that he is awaiting approval. So I told him to not worry about the coils, that I would do them myself after the engine was replaced. I'm an honest guy and I expect people to be the same way for the most part, I just feel bad for the normal RX8 owner who doesn't know shit.

coil has nothing to do with engine compression or engine vacuum numbers.

so yeah ... he is shitting you.

What im thinking now is they wanna try to get you some coils under warranty (cuz at this stage, no one will pay for it.), so they can charge Mazda a bit more labor hours BEFORE they replace your engine. every dollar counts :)

hrm I do all my changes at home would updating your maintenance history on Mazda's website.. under the "my mazda" section be valid proof of maintenance?

coil has nothing to do with engine compression or engine vacuum numbers.

so yeah ... he is shitting you.

What im thinking now is they wanna try to get you some coils under warranty (cuz at this stage, no one will pay for it.), so they can charge Mazda a bit more labor hours BEFORE they replace your engine. every dollar counts :)

I think your right because he said tonight my extended warranty was covering the coils so I told them to knock themselves out. They are gonna let me know in the morning if the engine replacement was approved.

OOOO man I am sorry to hear of this..... I to just went thou my third engine on less mileage then you also..... Part of it I chalk up to the Super high heat here lately the other is bad work. My coolant currently looks like CRAP! If I knew the shop that did the work would provide with a Loaner I would take it into them tomorrow as I dont even have 1k on it yet. I really dont think IPAQ changed any fluids other then the OIL with the new install.

BTW: Loaner cars are only provided under the basic warranty. Mazda doesn't provide them for the extended drivetrain or engine core warranties.

BTW: Loaner cars are only provided under the basic warranty. Mazda doesn't provide them for the extended drivetrain or engine core warranties.


Shit, really? I wonder if my extended warranty will just cover the rental.

i know here in canada MAP does cover a rental

is there any other kind of info you can give on your motor maintenice?

are those the original coils?
do you have latest stock tune?
did you top your oil off often?
how did your coolent look? when was the last time you did a coolant flush

your driving habits you said red lined once a day, what would you say is your commen shift rpm? 4k,5k,6k 9k everyshift?

Okay guys so they are going to cover the engine, install my new clutch, and cover 10 days of rental.

FazdaRX_8,

I am on my third set of coils, yes I have the latest tune ( I have had a couple actually), I check my oil at every fill up and usually in between if I have some hard runs in. My last 100+ hill country run I burned a quart of oil easy.

When I say redline every day I mean when I enter the highway in the morning I usually redline (almost anyway) every gear and enter the highway at 70MPH to merge and usually if I'm on an access road I will rip through the gears just because I love the sound.

My 8 has been maintained by the book which is why I think most of the engine failure speculation is BS. With this motor I will definitely try an oil heavier than 10W30 and I will premix from day one. When this third engine fails I will tear it down myself and put all this BS to rest.

I should also note that I have had all the recalls done and a bunch of other crap replaced. Not to mention my alternator issues that they refused to cover under warranty.

I attribute my engines longevity (75k miles) to several factors:

-Luck
-Proper oil change intervals / oil top offs
-Always allowing the engine to warm up before surpassing 4k rpm
-Climate of Colorado Springs (no extreme temps, dry)
-Air quality of colorado (very high air quality compared to a lot of the country)

Yeah I personally just think the extreme temps are too much for the oil. The question is 10W50 or 20W40?

Yeah I personally just think the extreme temps are too much for the oil. The question is 10W50 or 20W40?

I would say use 20w50

You can buy them everywhere, Dino or Synthetic.

Im dare to say Mazda did NOT do enough test on 5w20 before "recommending" it.

5w20 is already weak. Plus after all the fuel and stuff that gets into the oil ... I would say after 1000 miles. it will turn into some w10 oil or some shit.

I will have to price it, I wish there was some hard real world data on this stuff.

thanks

it sounds like you drive really spirited for the oil you are using. I got 45,000 on orginal motor, just want to keep it going :)

Just visit a few oil manufacture site and compare the value between them.

You might not know what those numbers mean (I do), but at least it gives ya a better idea of

X weight oil = y times the strength of X weight oil.

I would honestly hope that maybe in the future they would be willing to install 09+ engines in our vehicles. I am aware of the differences...but this is ridiculous.

Yeah it's crazy since I'm ran 10W30 on this one which is obviously not enough.

Funny, I've been using 5w20 since day one and no problems what so ever 63k miles, knock on wood.

Funny, I've been using 5w20 since day one and no problems what so ever 63k miles, knock on wood.

You better find some wood quick bro, my second engine last 73k!!!!

Okay guys picked up my brand new Nissan Sentra with CVT tranny so apparently they do cover rental under the extended engine warranty. It could be worse, last time I had a Saturn ION that was a total POS. I also placed my order for my BHR ignition :-)

After reading this im worried.
50k on org motor with 5w-20 since the day I drove it off the lot. My father has a 83' 7, with 220k (12a) original motor. His technique for keeping the engine this long with no major problems, drive it hard and forget to change the oil. As dumb as this sounds, (and it really does) I do that(ish) 6k or 7k between oil changes. No major problems besides the hard shaking in the rear, which has nothing to do with the motor. Does anyone know if mazda ever release and official statement saying that 5w-20 caused alot of the problems? Im knocking on every wooden object in the place, im worried now that im going to have some major issues. ehh

side note: did they ever mention anything about the midpipe? I know when jigga took it in, NP wouldnt even read the code with the midpipe on

Nope, they never even mentioned it. They did mention I needed a new rear O2 :lol:

use diesel oil 15/40w --read about it-- a fellow ga rx8 owner did many oil analysis's on various convential/synthetic and then the diesel (valvoline blue) --no doubt about it. Conventional and synthetic both loose sear viscosity that you wouldnt believe. Go to the Ga Rx 8 club to view the oil analysis--you will have to log in.

One other hint---even if your engine temp shows fully warm during your 1st drive of the day, it doesnt mean the oil is warm. When you engine temp gauge 1st reaches fully warm your oil temps are not even 140F yet. that takes another couple of miles. From what I understand oil needs to be at least 160F to do its job
olddragger

I've been reading some the the posts in this tread....10w30? my manual recommends 5w20 here in Canada which I use religiously never had any engine issue to date! Is it different in the southern states, I know in Australia they uses 5w30 because of the climate.

Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil

Funny, I've been using 5w20 since day one and no problems what so ever 63k miles, knock on wood.

I've been reading some the the posts in this tread....10w30? my manual recommends 5w20 here in Canada which I use religiously never had any engine issue to date! Is it different in the southern states, I know in Australia they uses 5w30 because of the climate.

Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil

Just want to let you guys know that, your butt dyno might be telling you your engine is "ok" even when its compression number is low.

in my case, I know something up with my engine, thats why I asked for compression test even I have to pay for it. numbers still within spec but it was kinda low.

Guess what, the engine runs, still random stallin', 6 months later the front rotor compression went to the 5 range. dead. but I can tell you the engine does run !

you can use whatever you want, but my point of view is, 5w20 sounds like a big joke to me from Mazda.

use diesel oil 15/40w --read about it-- a fellow ga rx8 owner did many oil analysis's on various convential/synthetic and then the diesel (valvoline blue) --no doubt about it. Conventional and synthetic both loose sear viscosity that you wouldnt believe. Go to the Ga Rx 8 club to view the oil analysis--you will have to log in.

read that a while ago.

I dont want to use diesel simply because its has pretty harsh stuff in there. more than I like it to be inside my engine. Sometimes I just change my oil at 1500 miles so it doesnt matter. Its all about my mood :P

One other hint---even if your engine temp shows fully warm during your 1st drive of the day, it doesnt mean the oil is warm. When you engine temp gauge 1st reaches fully warm your oil temps are not even 140F yet. that takes another couple of miles. From what I understand oil needs to be at least 160F to do its job
olddragger

yep.

When my water/coolant reach 90 celsius, the oil is usually around 50-60. which is NOT its optimum operating temperature.

I see my oil and water temp everyday (Defi gauges FTW) ;)

I've been reading some the the posts in this tread....10w30? my manual recommends 5w20 here in Canada which I use religiously never had any engine issue to date! Is it different in the southern states, I know in Australia they uses 5w30 because of the climate.

Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil

There are tons of guys who ran nothing but 5W20 and still had failures. Not to mention the hundreds maybe thousands of people not on this site that had their cars factory serviced and still had failures. k thanx bye.

I'm about to swap out for Redline 15w40...I think that may be their 50wt race oil plus 6oz of 2 stroke. We'll see how this works for me the rest of the summer, I've got about 25k left on my engine warranty so it couldn't hurt.

Does anyone know of a good place to buy oil online?

Depends on what you're looking for. I buy all my Redline oils from CDOC.com...helps that I'm 2 hrs from VIR and know most of the guys from the company.

Thanks.

i am going in tomorrow and hopefully i will get this new engine process going AGAIN..

Does anyone know of a good place to buy oil online?

whenever I shop, I look all over online for best deals, sometimes I use cashback service like bing or fatwallet.

sometimes I can get great local deals too

say for example. Autozone had this promo of 5 qt of Mobil1 + mobil1 filter for 29.99. I got like 3 of them. and I have autozone rewards card, so thats got 3 points out of it, then every 6 qts of mobil1 oil purchase I can send the receipts in to mobil1 rewards for 5 dollar gift certificate. :)

After all the discounts, rebates, rewards and tax. its about 17 bux every 5 qts of mobil1 + mobil1 filter. not bad huh :)

9k, sorry about another engine.

but in my opinion, the main cause for all these "engine deaths" came from the light weight oil they recommend. 2nd is the whack OMP injection nozzle location.

I got my 7 for almost a month and I've been researching it day after day, that's why I wasnt on the 8club that often.

and the "common" knowledge on the 7club is most people use at least 10w40 lots of ppl use 20w50. RotaryGod probably knows that.

Im not sure about the FD but for FC's owner's manual, they dont really "recommend" you to go for one oil only, they give you a chart and you will decide whats best for you.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141766&stc=1&d=1246896948

I know they have something like that in the 8's manual too, but the point is that most people just "too ignorant to think whats best for their cars, they always want a free lunch or "simple" way out, Mazda knows that, so to shut them up, they have to just "recommend the customers with something", and in 8's case, its 5w20"

Look at the chart, 20w50 gives you the "widest" range of protection for different weather. not to mention if any of the 8 owners look closely to the oil's sheer rate, as the temp increase, thinner oil is getting weaker and weaker. 5w20 has enough protection MY ASS!

Great for EPA/CAFE, not so great for ANY engines.

And most people might said "hey I use 5w20 and my engine still works !" Thats good isn't it? I know my engine having problems, last sept I did a compression check outa my pocket, it was still within spec. so ? I still got all kinds of random stalling. 1/2 year later the compression dropped from 7 range to 5. Butt Dyno never really noticed anything, it did feel slower, but I (even Kevin) wasnt' expecting the comp. numbers drop so fast in just a few months.

some might say "so what, you used heavy oil ur shit still failed, so it has nothing to do with it"

Well, how about this, if I didnt change my shit to something heavier, my engine could've gone "kabooooom" way before that?

OMP design + feeding 4 cycle oil was an uber failure, but its a failure that Mazda HAS to make, this engine would NEVER sell if U gotta tell the buyers that oh yeah, you gotta fill that Tank with 2 cycle oil every 1K miles or so. Most users have zero clue about what kind of car they're getting, how could Mazda expect them to know wtf is 2 cycle oil ?

Thats all I gotta say for now, my grandfather passed away this morning and I have to take care a lot of shit with my father. *sigh*

Good luck with your replacement 9K. peace.

ok, you are understood. We need different viscosity oil in order to protect the engine in high temps.

What if you use premix and a think oil like 5W30 ? I mean the premix should be enough to lubricate properly at least the seals at high temps? (forget the shaft)? OR you also need 10W40 with premix? If so , why?

Also I believe that the 2nd, 3rd or so failure of an engine has to do with a bad rebuild or a re-use of a failed part like clogged intake manifold, problematic omp etc.

ok, you are understood. We need different viscosity oil in order to protect the engine in high temps.

What if you use premix and a think oil like 5W30 ? I mean the premix should be enough to lubricate properly at least the seals at high temps? (forget the shaft)? OR you also need 10W40 with premix? If so , why?

Reason : To Protect the bearings.

Heavier weight oil has a much much MUCH stronger film strength.

Premix is used protect the seals/housing surface + it helps the seals to seal better.

Also I believe that the 2nd, 3rd or so failure of an engine has to do with a bad rebuild or a re-use of a failed part like clogged intake manifold, problematic omp etc.

it could be, early rebuilds were horrible.

but I would say Texas heat + light oil is the main cause ...

notice one thing. a lot of people with engine problems came from places that can see 80+ f heat ...

Typical summer temps in Greece

30 degree Celsius = 86 degree Fahrenheit
40 degree Celsius = 104 degree Fahrenheit
45 degree Celsius = 113 degree Fahrenheit

Mazda Dealers here in Greece use 5W-30 Mazda Dexelia Oil.

Here in Greece with the above temps I have a friend with RX-8 low power manual trans 5MT with 60K on his engine (first engine from factory) with 5W-30 Mazda Dexelia, no premix, oil change interval every 3000k , no mods, and with compression at spec but low (i.e 710KPA at 250rpms)

Typical summer temps in Greece

30 degree Celsius = 86 degree Fahrenheit
40 degree Celsius = 104 degree Fahrenheit
45 degree Celsius = 113 degree Fahrenheit

Mazda Dealers here in Greece use 5W-30 Mazda Dexelia Oil.

Here in Greece with the above temps I have a friend with RX-8 low power manual trans 5MT with 60K on his engine (first engine from factory) with 5W-30 Mazda Dexelia, no premix, oil change interval every 3000k , no mods, and with compression at spec but low (i.e 710KPA at 250rpms)

in my opinion, all rotary engine should use premix.

the OMP + 4 cycle dirty oil is just a band aid created by Mazda, I dont blame them tho. they have to do something like this or else no one will buy this type of engine (people are as lazy as shit ... )

710 kPA is pretty low. give it another year or so it will go down more. :(

it could be, early rebuilds were horrible.

but I would say Texas heat + light oil is the main cause ...

notice one thing. a lot of people with engine problems came from places that can see 80+ f heat ...


Should say more like 80+ F over a certain amount of the year. I think everywhere in the USA minus maybe Alaska will see 80F+ during the summer for days and/or weeks worth. (as in total time not nessessarilly days/weeks in a row)


Now places like TX probably see 80+ for much of the year (or at least half??)

umm... Premix...........

Okay I'm going through a little dilemma and need advice. Started the 8 on a hot Thursday afternoon and it was sputtering really bad. At idle it was jumping between 200-700rpm even stalling out at times. Called the dealership and they said they couldn't look on it until the following Tuesday. I couldn't wait that long so I took it to a local auto mechanic. He looked on it and said that it needed new spark plugs and could get them the next day. Before he even put in the spark plugs he flooded the engine pulling it out of the garage. Long story short had to tow my car over to the dealership. The dealer is stating that it needs new coil packs and a "slight 10%" chance that it might be the engine.. Gonna cost me $780 for everything including unflooding the engine.

04 Rx8
51,000 miles (bought the car used last nov at 44,000)
I've gotten my oil changed every 3,000 miles at the dealership.

Coils should be covered under warranty. My first set was. Did you purchase and extended warranty? Before I would pay for that I would pay for a compression test and if the compression is low they will have to replace the motor and cannot charge you for the other stuff. You may still need new coils as they are not included with the rebuilt engine but you can do that your self for about $150.00.

In San Antonio the average temp between March and November if 84.6 degrees. the average between April and September is 89.5 degrees. But this summer it is off the charts and all kinds of records are being broke.

+1 with 9k, have them do a compression check and go from there.

Coils should be covered under warranty. My first set was. Did you purchase and extended warranty? Before I would pay for that I would pay for a compression test and if the compression is low they will have to replace the motor and cannot charge you for the other stuff. You may still need new coils as they are not included with the rebuilt engine but you can do that your self for about $150.00.

In San Antonio the average temp between March and November if 84.6 degrees. the average between April and September is 89.5 degrees. But this summer it is off the charts and all kinds of records are being broke.


Just came off the phone with the dealer and they said, that a compression test was done along with other diagnostic tests and everything came back good. Right now there wanting on the coil packs that will arrive tomorrow...

And nope I don't have the extended warranty...

Okay so they can give you the results of the compression test then. Ask them for it and lets see what we have.

Got to agree with 'nycgps'...

The fundamental issue with Series I engines is the OMP SYSTEM, it is just not good enough.

History shows that older 13B's had center oil nozzles to lubricate Apex seals, the RENESIS did not....so it does not matter how many engines you have replaced, they are fundamentally flawed...this is why PRE-mixing is a MUST.

This is also why Mazda changed the MOP system on Series II RX-8's, to the best system they have ever used, it is now fed by the engines oil pump with two large electric solenoids to release oil, not the stupid stepper motor used over the past 35 years.

Next..is the oil Grade, as nycgps says a 5W20 is not good enough.

Damn premixing is kind of a pain in the ass since these local bastard wanna charge so much for Lucas UCL but I guess I have no choice. If I premix, use 15W oil, and do regular changes and my engine fails again I'm gonna murder someone.

Got to agree with 'nycgps'...

The fundamental issue with Series I engines is the OMP SYSTEM, it is just not good enough.

History shows that older 13B's had center oil nozzles to lubricate Apex seals, the RENESIS did not....so it does not matter how many engines you have replaced, they are fundamentally flawed...this is why PRE-mixing is a MUST.

This is also why Mazda changed the MOP system on Series II RX-8's, to the best system they have ever used, it is now fed by the engines oil pump with two large electric solenoids to release oil, not the stupid stepper motor used over the past 35 years.

Next..is the oil Grade, as nycgps says a 5W20 is not good enough.

yea ... its about time that they need to change that stepping motor crap to something better.

but still feeding dirty 4 cycle oil ... grrr

and the older rotary engines they feed the oil at center *only* ...

I still think premix it with gasoline gives ya the best results ... and I still think premix is the only way to make sure that your engine will get 99.999998 % of the lubrication that it needs.

So yeah, i still still premix even with my next rotary.


Damn premixing is kind of a pain in the ass since these local bastard wanna charge so much for Lucas UCL but I guess I have no choice.

Online dude, online !

You dont really need idemitsu, you can use Royal purple or Redline's 2 cycle oil. Go at least TWC3. or even better, the JASO-FC.

I got Idemitsu cuz ... I got it for cheap lol. and well it has that "rotary" label on it so yeah I use that :)

If I premix, use 15W oil, and do regular changes and my engine fails again I'm gonna murder someone.

well i mean, there is a no way a reman engine (what you're getting, and thats what I got) will outlast a "properly" build Brand new engine. cuz theres gotta be a part in there thats used.

but if ... you know ... Can I join you ? :P

Agree,

I think the issue which has created problems in the "lubricity' of the RENESIS is the side Exhaust Porting and the new rotor's cut off rings, these obviously need oil lubrication, part of the side oil weepers dual function, but they forgot the centre of the Apex Seal.

Perhaps Mazda were concerned that oil in the middle area could foul the spark plus which are also in the center of the rotor??...I don't think this was a huge problem for RX-7's.

As we know in the "A" and some "B" rotary engines oil was "injected" below the Carburettors which mixed with air/fuel for internal lubrication.

Only time will tell if the new 6 injector set up will work, another thing is we have more "small" holes that Apex Seals have to skip over which were not there in earlier rotaries.

Agree,

I think the issue which has created problems in the "lubricity' of the RENESIS is the side Exhaust Porting and the new rotor's cut off rings, these obviously need oil lubrication, part of the side oil weepers dual function, but they forgot the centre of the Apex Seal.

Perhaps Mazda were concerned that oil in the middle area could foul the spark plus which are also in the center of the rotor??...I don't think this was a huge problem for RX-7's.

As we know in the "A" and some "B" rotary engines oil was "injected" below the Carburettors which mixed with air/fuel for internal lubrication.

Only time will tell if the new 6 injector set up will work, another thing is we have more "small" holes that Apex Seals have to skip over which were not there in earlier rotaries.

only true solution --- Premix into Gasoline.

Anything else --- band aids :( :eek:

sad, but true :(

the more "holes" they add to the housings, the more apex seals "jumping" will occur ... and most of us know what that means ... :(

Dayum son good luck.

....so it does not matter how many engines you have replaced, they are fundamentally flawed...this is why PRE-mixing is a MUST.
....


Yes I agree with that statement.

However, how is it possible if the renesis I engines are fundamentally flawed MAZDA to replace your no compression engine with a rebuilt engine that again is faulty !!!!

Mazda should replace the renesis I engine with renesis II engine (at a warranty replacement) in order to reduce replacement engines at warranty.

What is the purpose to replace an engine with another engine that will last the same few miles ???

Something is not logical here. Every motor industry in case that they discovered a design problem in an engine will replace the engine with the properly designed one under warranty. Why Mazda does not do that?

The second gen Renesis requires a lot of things to be done in order for it to work properly.

1 - New PCM to control third oil injector
2 - A new dash cluster for the warm-up procedure
3 - An entirely new wiring harness
4 - A new OMP system
The list goes on...

It will be too costly for Mazda to replace them with the second gen Renesis engines.

^ Yes I also agree to that but what is most costly ? Is cheaper to replace 3-4 engines renesis I to a customer or to replace 1 engine renesis II.

And what about the reputation cost that Mazda has to pay about all those replacements. I guess the reputation cost is the highest.

It's cheaper AND faster to replace 3-4 refurbished engines than to get a brand new second gen Renesis and all the required parts for the swap.

As for the reputation, Mazda's rotary equipped vehicles are known by many as an unreliable engine concept so may people stay away from them. (Flamesuit ON)

^ Yes I also agree to that but what is most costly ? Is cheaper to replace 3-4 engines renesis I to a customer or to replace 1 engine renesis II.

And what about the reputation cost that Mazda has to pay about all those replacements. I guess the reputation cost is the highest.

As answered the cost is too great for Mazda to replace engines with ALL new Series II, it is cheaper to reman as they are also using some old parts.

Cheaper freight/shipping costs than a crated engine from Japan, plus all the extra parts, PCM, Wiring Harnesses, 2 EMOP's, pipes, sensors, switches.

Mazda would really only be counting on replacing your engine once, not twice in 8 years.

The Labor cost of replacing all those other parts, pulling dashboards apart, replacing wiring harnesses, PCM etc. At a guess it may be double (at least) the man hours when compared to just going the familiar reman way.

It is ok to replace 1 engine in 8 years but this is not always the case. As the topic suggests “engine three” and who says that later would be “engine four”

Anyway sure you are all right about the cost of swapping renesis II but the reputation cost is the highest of all. If you think that most of people assume that wankel is not reliable then al those thousands of RX-8 would not have been sold. So the reputation cost will impair more the futures sales of RX-8

I know the simple fix,

everyone from 04-08 trades there car to Mazda in exchange we get the 09 model for free!!!!!

done:smiley309:djcelebra

Or better, we all buy CAMRYS/CAMRIES/CAMRI!!

Based on the teardown pictures posted on these boards, you might as well break this new one in with 5w20 then switch to pure synthetic. The teardown pics I saw of one guy who ran RP for 47000 miles with a turbo showed no wear whatsoever!

Yeah the reputation cost is high because although I like the new RX-8 I'm not sure I would want to mess with one again when there are other vehicles to choose from. Of course each person has had their own experience but the problems with tail lights, visors, engines, fuel tank, heater, starters, alternators, coils, fuel pumps, etc. is just too much at times for a $30,000 car. I am a car guy and I didn't expect a perfect relationship with a rotary equipped car and this car is 85% perfect but the common problems are just a bit much for me at times.

Plus I bought a brand new MPV mini van here at work a couple years ago and it has not held up well (rides rough, interior bits falling apart already, tranny problems) considering the Toyota Sienna we own has had almost 300,000 trouble free miles and is 9 years old. I think Mazda is great in a lot of areas, they just need to fine tune some others in terms of parts suppliers and quality. My MS Protege was a great reliable car and so have my dads Miata's. But, we will see how the Renesis II's fair, maybe Mazda finally got it right.

Since my divorce 1 1/2 years ago my cars daily highway mileage dropped from 80 miles a day to about 10 miles a day but my car gets driven the way it was meant to be driven and it gets redlined daily. The only thing I can think of that I didn't do is premix from day one.


Not to say that there isn't something wrong, but how long does the car warm up before the redline session? My GTI came with an oil cooler and oil temp gauge stock and it was quite surprising how long much longer it took for the oil temp to come up than the water temp.

It is ok to replace 1 engine in 8 years but this is not always the case. As the topic suggests “engine three” and who says that later would be “engine four”

Anyway sure you are all right about the cost of swapping renesis II but the reputation cost is the highest of all. If you think that most of people assume that wankel is not reliable then al those thousands of RX-8 would not have been sold. So the reputation cost will impair more the futures sales of RX-8

You are concerned about Mazda's reputation?

That is why you have an 8 year warranty.

Go and buy a Porsche and see what happens when the engine expires at 30,000.
Or a 09 Subaru with engines have not lasted 150 miles!. Or a Nissan that drinks more oil then any rotary ever would.

ALL makes have engine issues....

Too be honest I always warm my car up before heading out but I only go by water temp and honestly I'm not far from the freeway and I always run through the gears to get up to merge speed due to the short on ramp. I usually let the water temp get to 150 at least before pulling away from my driveway and I never shut my car off cold.

i will have to research to find out what the best options are for getting an oil temp guage.

coil has nothing to do with engine compression or engine vacuum numbers.

Strictly speaking, this is not true.
Mazda's "compression test" consists of hooking up a vacuum gauge to a running motor.
Incomplete combustion could cause a failure of this test.
A proper compression test - where they actually measure the pressure in each chamber - is no longer recommended or carried out by Mazda stealerships.

Wow, really? Good info.

Strictly speaking, this is not true.

Incomplete combustion could cause a failure of this test.
A proper compression test - where they actually measure the pressure in each chamber - is no longer recommended or carried out by Mazda stealerships.
Why?

Incomplete combustion could cause a failure of this test.

Could you explain? I would figure, no matter how poorly you were combusting, if you were at a particular RPM with a VE that was rather constrained (as it is at a relative low RPM) that you would have a specific flow through the tb and hence a specific speed through the tb to act on the venturi.


That is not to say that I havent noticed that at a particular rpm, when the car runs rich with a light bog, that the vac falls. I just dont understand why this would be?

(My vac at idle is running in the high 14"Hg-low 15"Hg when hot. I am wondering if it is a heat sensitive vac leak at the injectors (rpms race slightly with carb cleaner when blasted on top of the injectors and there is a reed like sound isolated to this area.) I have had to stop tuning 'til I figure it out. I haven't checked the compression yet, despite the fact I have my brand new tester sitting in the garage. )

The amount of air drawn in is directly affected by combustion.
Bigger boom, bigger suck.
Mish-mosh of reasons - carry-over charge, lower temp differential, wash-down, etc. - but the net result is lower vacuum.
Mazda recognizes this and its the reason they swap coils before resorting to an engine replacement.

Strictly speaking, this is not true.
Mazda's "compression test" consists of hooking up a vacuum gauge to a running motor.
Incomplete combustion could cause a failure of this test.
A proper compression test - where they actually measure the pressure in each chamber - is no longer recommended or carried out by Mazda stealerships.

what I meant is --- when you test compression numbers, you dont need coils. (proper way)

I know about that part (the incomplete combustion would cause a failure --)

dunno why Mazda not doing it anymore tho, maybe people can't read for shit, doing it wrong(the test) all the time and send good motors to rebuild ?

I am convinced many engines were changed in the early days that did not require them to be.....because Dealers and Distributors were not recognizing failed ignition coils.
Poor starting or no firing in any rotary is a sign of bad compressions/blow-by/seal leakage/coolant entry.

Having said that both types of condition testing whether it be by Vacuum or a PSI Tester will highlight some failure with "seals".

Which is the "better" type of test???, perhaps Vacuum is the easiest as RPM can influence a PSI test if it is not calculated correctly...ie. Human error.

EDIT: And not many dealers have the expensive mechanical PSI Testers, the vacuum one is the simplest and cheapest to perform.
Years ago here Dealers would borrow the Mazda Tester from the Distributor to test an RX-7 engine.

It takes too many billable hours and a more expensive piece of equipment with too many variables to do a proper compression check.
The current check can be done on a hot motor with a cheap sensor in 1/2 hour, requires no interpolating and doesn't depend on starter speed. The plugs stay in, the car stays off a lift that could otherwise be making money and Mazda doesn't care if the motor is making power. They only care that it isn't gonna die and become a liability.

Good explanation, all they wanna know is if the engine needs to be replaced.

It takes too many billable hours and a more expensive piece of equipment with too many variables to do a proper compression check.
The current check can be done on a hot motor with a cheap sensor in 1/2 hour, requires no interpolating and doesn't depend on starter speed. The plugs stay in, the car stays off a lift that could otherwise be making money and Mazda doesn't care if the motor is making power. They only care that it isn't gonna die and become a liability.

yeah ... I got that vacuum tool too, it is a much easier tool to use ...

its just that I never know what's the value for passed/failed. :(

do ya know ?

Actually called "Engine Vacuum Voltage Test", I guess you have seen the TSB "nycgps"?,
I cant see any reference values, perhaps Kevin may tell?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-014-08-1924g.pdf


Engine Vacuum Voltage Tester #N3M1-18-791
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142313&stc=1&d=1247723448

Yeah the reputation cost is high because although I like the new RX-8 I'm not sure I would want to mess with one again when there are other vehicles to choose from.

exactly. The reputation cost is the biggest cost Mazda has to pay. This cost may be so large sometimes that may enforce the shutdown of a production line.

You are concerned about Mazda's reputation?

That is why you have an 8 year warranty.

Go and buy a Porsche and see what happens when the engine expires at 30,000.
Or a 09 Subaru with engines have not lasted 150 miles!. Or a Nissan that drinks more oil then any rotary ever would.

ALL makes have engine issues....

As I wrote before reputation cost may be responsible for lowering the rotary cars sales. This in future may be a problem of continuing the rotary production. Mazda could reduce the reputation cost by swapping renesis I to renesis II.

And in Greece we have only 3 years warranty or 62000 Km. And the dealers will not replace your engine under warranty if you have installed an aftermarket exhaust.

What do you want Mazda to go broke?
As I said go buy a Porsche..they walk away from their customers with no help.

...."enforce the shutdown of a production line" HUH?.

The RX-8 is only made at Mazda in Hiroshima on a line where the MX-5, Mazda 2, CX-7, CX-9, MPV and 8 come off, 8 production is so small it has little effect of their "production line"...on average about 30 a day.

In Australia we only have a 3 year warranty also.

LUCKY U.S.A .. ;)

^ ok you have a point. I do not actually mean to shut down the entire production line. Just to stop producing RXs.

I wish I had the money to buy a carrera 911 and stay totally unsupported from dealer

Actually called "Engine Vacuum Voltage Test", I guess you have seen the TSB "nycgps"?,
I cant see any reference values, perhaps Kevin may tell?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-014-08-1924g.pdf


Engine Vacuum Voltage Tester #N3M1-18-791
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142313&stc=1&d=1247723448

Yep, thats the tool I got

and when I play it with my multi-meter, I see some value, but I have no idea what is good or not ...

Don't feel left out, the dealership doesn't what the values mean either.

I have been looking at FSM and the TSBs ... nothing.

Maybe Kevin knows ? :)

I have been looking at FSM and the TSBs ... nothing.

Maybe Kevin knows ? :)

We could guestimate what is good and what is not, but Mazda does not release the number.
The mech calls it in to the Tech Line and gets a go or no go. They do no publish a number.

Its just a vacuum gauge and its output is known (its the exact same sensor that is used as your BARO sensor).
It would be easier to just put a mechanical gauge on.

The test is fairly involved and requires control over the OMP to run correctly. Anyone with an AccessPORT could do the test correctly.

Damn premixing is kind of a pain in the ass since these local bastard wanna charge so much for Lucas UCL but I guess I have no choice. If I premix, use 15W oil, and do regular changes and my engine fails again I'm gonna murder someone.

You should be able to purchase AMSOIL Saber Pro locally.

Thanks I will have to find an amsoil product.

Okay guys, a friend/customer of mine works for Schaeffer oil. I met him through a referral and we have talked oil a little before about oil stuff but never about premixing specifically and I never knew that back in the 80's he autox'd a turbo FC. Well, let me tell you, he can talk to you all day about lubricants of various type (sounds bad I know).

Anyway, I had along discussion with him (of which most was above my head) about premixing and rotaries and and to make a long story short he told me that Mobile 1 and other commonly used synthetics "rupture" which causes metal to metal contact for a millisecond and he said this metal to metal contact is what damages the apex seals. He highly recommends (keep your comments to yourself NYCGPS) using synthetic and premixing in a rotary engine (says normal Dino oil is great for other applications and usually synthetic is not needed). Of course he works for the company so take it with a grain of salt but he says he has two products that would protect a rotary better than other commonly used retail brands. He says they sell mostly to large high use commercial buyers such as Good Year (they use their oils in their tire test vehicles).

Anyway, here are the two products he recommended that I use (tell me what you think):

5W-30
http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/9003.pdf

Synthetic 2-Stroke
http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/706.pdf

I have been looking at FSM and the TSBs ... nothing.

Maybe Kevin knows ? :)

That's it..

Kev will know, He only works on 8's, if he reports the numbers he would have an idea on what is a pass or fail value.

Those numbers are only good at that temperature and altitude.

What do you guys think of the stuff I posted last?

^Honestly, with you living in San Antonio, I would recommend a much higher viscosity oil. Maybe stick with a 10W30/40 along with 2 stroke. The key is oil change intervals when breaking in a new motor. Use the stock fluid in the new motor for about 300 miles, change oil with whatever you want and then change it again a 1000 miles after that...then go back to your normal change rate.

I am a fan of Redline fluids so that's what I use, 10W30 half of the year and Race 50WT during the really hot months. I also have quite a bit of Redline Racing 2 stroke, 6-10oz depending on where and when I'm driving.

Yeah I have just read a lot about going with 15W oil due to the high detergent content and I just think it may be a little much. I am thinking maybe a good 10W40 dino and some synthetic stroke. I also think the SOHN adapter with 2 stroke is a good idea but man it seems like a pain in the ass.

Shouldn't you be using 5w20?? I have 81,700 mi with same engine. Either that or the dealer is not doing something right. I do my own oil changes to make sure its being done right. I don't trust the stealership.

My thinking has changed a bit. But my first motor ran the recommended weight and failed at 22k.

Check this out.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=178739

I still don't think your engine failures or the others who had it occur so early and so many changes (2-4 engines?) is because of the oil. IMO I suspect the apex seals which seems people initially were saying there were a lot of bad ones out there, and/or the schematic set up perhaps with the oil injection, spark, coils, whatever, you get the idea.

If I had more than 2 engines go oil would not be on my mind, it would be the whole set up outside of the engine to suspect something is screwed up to keep ruining the engines. That or I had really really bad luck getting fluke engines all the time, but still wouldn't be the oil.

Yeah I don't think it was soley the oil but I do think the design and volume of the OMP was not sufficient (which is why it was revised in the 09+).

But I also believe that anything we could do to protect our engines further at start-up would be great. In addition, actually making sure oil temps are up before hitting the road will go a long way as well. i will have the the BHR ignition, Mazmart water pump and thermostat, and then eventually the AP running on the new engine so we will see how long it lasts.

Shouldn't you be using 5w20?? I have 81,700 mi with same engine. Either that or the dealer is not doing something right. I do my own oil changes to make sure its being done right. I don't trust the stealership.

not always.

tested my engine at Sept 08' it was in the mid-upper 7 range.

6 months later, it failed. front ( was it ?) is seeing mid 5s.

the engine still works, it moves.

yours still move? good. have it test. we'll see.

Yeah I don't think it was soley the oil but I do think the design and volume of the OMP was not sufficient (which is why it was revised in the 09+).

But I also believe that anything we could do to protect our engines further at start-up would be great. In addition, actually making sure oil temps are up before hitting the road will go a long way as well. i will have the the BHR ignition, Mazmart water pump and thermostat, and then eventually the AP running on the new engine so we will see how long it lasts.

it might not be 100% oil, but you should use something heavier.

its not New engine, its a Reman.

you could be lucky tho. you might get one directly from Hiroshima (some people are getting that, summer time is here a lot of engine went kabooom! reman plants cant keep up, help from Japan comes)

My thinking has changed a bit. But my first motor ran the recommended weight and failed at 22k.

Check this out.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=178739
its all about premix
I am convinced that is the key to the Renesis longevity

oh and synthetic oil ftw :)

its all about premix
I am convinced that is the key to the Renesis longevity

oh and synthetic oil ftw :)

its funny that rx-8 people think premix is something "new" for rotary.

rotary engine has been "asking" for 2-stroke oil since born.

Even my FC has premix (the previous owner didnt so ... :()

I wonder how I can tell if mine comes from Japan?

its funny that rx-8 people think premix is something "new" for rotary.

rotary engine has been "asking" for 2-stroke oil since born.

Even my FC has premix (the previous owner didnt so ... :()

what about the swoope fuel pump with clogged filter by premix?

^There's an easy way to fix that...take out the fuel filter on the pump and add an external fuel filter which can be changed or cleaned more easily.

what about the swoope fuel pump with clogged filter by premix?

check and see what premix swoope was using.

I never had a problem with my Idemitsu ;) I still swap the pump out a while ago as a preventative measures. 04-08 stock fuel pump SUCK !

^ I should swap mine in order to see what happens with Amsoil Saber Pro that I use.

How many miles do you recommend for swapping the fuel pump ?

^There's an easy way to fix that...take out the fuel filter on the pump and add an external fuel filter which can be changed or cleaned more easily.

^ I should swap mine in order to see what happens with Amsoil Saber Pro that I use.

How many miles do you recommend for swapping the fuel pump ?

it really depends.

cuz you know there are times that "you want to go fast :mdrmed:", u kick your clutch and floor the crap outa it to make a sharp turn then u found out your car jerks on you ... then yeah, its about time.

Manual saids replace it every 100K , yeah right.

Mine was 30 something 40K (cant remember it now)

Any word on when you will get your car back?

never :lol:

rotary sucks ! BrrrwAAARR !

Any word on when you will get your car back?

Should be ready today. They had the engine in yesterday and just needed to road test it and double check everything.

About time!

I'm dying without my car.

I was told at IPAC that my engine was a reman but they did not know if it came from catapiller or Mazda factory reman plant lol. They do now that I told them the cat plant had been shut down for a a bit now.

I wonder how I can tell?

I wonder how I can tell?

I asked sleepz this very question which he answered in his thread. I forgot if a specific part has a stamping or painted a certain color but there is a way to distinguish where the motor came from.

I will search, thanks.

Should be ready today. They had the engine in yesterday and just needed to road test it and double check everything.

next thing I know is they gonna call you and say :

"Sorry sir, um, Well, the engine we got has Zero compression on the front rotor so, we put another order already so just give it another week it will come ..."

:wavey:

:lol: :lol: :lol2:

dude... i dont trust those guys at NP...... but where else can we go?

Dude, your gonna jinx me, STFU!!!!! :lol:

Jay,

I trust NP way more than World Car or IPAC so I guess we have no other choice.

I have used Legend Mazda, they did my engine swap back in 06... and replaced my fuel pump a year ago...never had a problem with their service...:dunno:

Hopefully ya get your 8 back today...:fingersx:

see if ya can come to Biff's on Friday...its turning into a tailgate party...

I will search, thanks.

Hey I just found it :)

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=3045086&postcount=21

Whoooooo!!!!!! HOOOOOOOO!!!!

I got my baby back! Man, she is smooth with her new engine, clutch, motor mounts, plugs, coils, and wires. Too bad I'll be yanking those new factory wires and coils off as soon as my BHR kit arrives. My extended warranty paid for the coil, plugs, and wires so all I had to pay was $100.00 deductible. But they wouldn't do the engine unless I had the coils and stuff done as well (which they billed $680.00 for).

But I figure I can sell the factory coils and wires and get some of that back so its a wash IMO.

Oh, and thanks pdxhak, The plate on my new motor is MR so its from Sleepyz's plant. I hope he rebuilt it.

good to hear . What oil you gunna put in it ? LOL

Congrats! Hope this engine last longer than the others :)

Uh, the service dude just told me 5W20 and never synthetic. I just sighed and said okay buddy. he also told me I didn't need to do the first oil change on the new motor until 3000 miles. I was just happy to have my car. I will be installing a filtermag and doing an oil change to 0W40 this weekend. I just added my first 7oz of Lucas UCL. When I have time I'll get a case of some real synthetic 2 stroke.

I just noticed on the receipt that they did the zoom power (or WTF they call it) on the new engine after they installed it. Does that make sense?

Uh, the service dude just told me 5W20 and never synthetic. I just sighed and said okay buddy. he also told me I didn't need to do the first oil change on the new motor until 3000 miles. I was just happy to have my car. I will be installing a filtermag and doing an oil change to 0W40 this weekend. I just added my first 7oz of Lucas UCL. When I have time I'll get a case of some real synthetic 2 stroke.

They have to put 5w20 in, its the stock fill.

I kept mine for maybe 200 miles before I drain and flush it. Its still new oil so why not ?

As for 5w20 and never use synthetic, well, most techs dont know anything about rotary engine. so :icon_tdow

0w40 should be good for now :)

I just noticed on the receipt that they did the zoom power (or WTF they call it) on the new engine after they installed it. Does that make sense?

Thats just pure stupid.

Reman comes with like 80-90% brand new parts. so they just pour some zoom cleaner into brand new housing. wow. what a waste of time.

Whoooooo!!!!!! HOOOOOOOO!!!!

I got my baby back! Man, she is smooth with her new engine, clutch, motor mounts, plugs, coils, and wires. Too bad I'll be yanking those new factory wires and coils off as soon as my BHR kit arrives. My extended warranty paid for the coil, plugs, and wires so all I had to pay was $100.00 deductible. But they wouldn't do the engine unless I had the coils and stuff done as well (which they billed $680.00 for).

But I figure I can sell the factory coils and wires and get some of that back so its a wash IMO.

well, I might get those coils and wires from you if the price is "good"

just a reminder I can get my coils for 22 bux each brand new ... :P so your price should be ... u get the idea :rollingla

I just noticed on the receipt that they did the zoom power (or WTF they call it) on the new engine after they installed it. Does that make sense?

I think I would question why they did this?...should not be necessary at all, UNLESS they were having starting or dare I say compression issues with the new motor?..

Other than that it does not make any sense to clean a clean reman engine.

I think I would question why they did this?...should not be necessary at all, UNLESS they were having starting or dare I say compression issues with the new motor?..

Other than that it does not make any sense to clean a clean reman engine.

maybe its some new Mazda's guidelines that we dont know about ?

maybe the tech there wants to burn/clean off all the "crap" that he thinks the housing has ?

well new Reman plant will put a layer of oil on the housing and stuff, but its same thing for new build ... ahh I dont know.

I wonder what compression # ur reman engine has.

That would be a good thing to check.

I did a long road trip 500 miles this weekend and she ran great (never revved her up past 4k though). I premixed before the first fill-up with Pennzoil Marine (6oz) and premixed again for the fill-up on the way back.

Damn dude, where did you go? That's about what 7-8 hrs drive time?

Whoooooo!!!!!! HOOOOOOOO!!!!

I got my baby back! Man, she is smooth with her new engine, clutch, motor mounts, plugs, coils, and wires. Too bad I'll be yanking those new factory wires and coils off as soon as my BHR kit arrives. My extended warranty paid for the coil, plugs, and wires so all I had to pay was $100.00 deductible. But they wouldn't do the engine unless I had the coils and stuff done as well (which they billed $680.00 for).

But I figure I can sell the factory coils and wires and get some of that back so its a wash IMO.

hmmmm how much you want for your new coils and wires once you get the BHR kit? :wiggle:

I dunno man, I'll let you know, I have to get my BHR kit and get everything taken apart to see whats up.

Damn dude, where did you go? That's about what 7-8 hrs drive time?

Actually its only 161 miles each way but we (My dad in his Miata) did a 100 mile cruise and anytime anyone needed to go somewhere I offered to drive :-).


I also, replaced the Ballast in my headlight, the HID bulbs, installed my adjustable rear end links, debadged my trunk, and made the slits behind the oil coolers larger.

Okay so the car is running fine but I think the Pennzoil premix is smoking too much so I'm gonna discontinue it and go with idemitsu.

Engine Oil:

I have been searching High and low for 0W oil and pretty much 0W30 Mobile and Castrol Syntec 0W30 are the only ones I have found and they are the same price. I did find however that Walmart is way cheaper on the Mobile 1 so if you buy Mobil 1 get it from Walmart for $22.00 for 5 quarts.

What are your thoughts on Castrol Syntec European Formula?

As far as I remember Castrol's Syntec 0w30 is a PAO based product (correct me if wrong)

So its good

most idiots out there didnt know the difference and just got the 5w-30 instead, which is a whack ass Group III hydro cracked junk. Well I mean Group III is good but, I am not paying GRP IV/V's price for GRP III's stuff.

I just read something that said the Mobil 1 0W30 (fuel efficiency or whatever) has poor viscosity ratings. So I'm gonna see if I can find the Castrol in a 5qt jug. What marking do i look for to determine it's PAO?

Just find the one that says 0w-30 and you're good to go.

but I dont think Castrol/BP has 0w30 in 5 quart jug ... I never seen them before so I could be wrong.

Ahh, I just checked for you, Autozone has another deal going. 5 quarts of Syntec and K&N Filter = 27.99 + tax. and if you get their rewards program, every 20 bux u get 1 point, 5 points you will have 20 dollars of store credit for free. Its a really good program IMO. I got a lot of free shit from it ;)

Need some advise! I bought my 17 daughter a 04 RX8 for her bday. Im am so sorry I did this I wish I would of read some forms before buying but anyway to late for that! My first problem was rough idle n sometimes killing. went to mazda replaced motor mounts. Still has rough idle not shaking as bad!! 2nd time went to Mazda killing at idle replaced all colis by then it was cool outside so I didnt have much trouble. Summer is here n now killing at idle again. went to Maza again and now its my battery and oxygen sensor!! I know this car needs a new motor they just wont give in. How do you guys convince them??
One more thing what is the compression on this motor so I can get someone to check it for me? Any advice will be GREAT!

^It takes a special device to test the compression on a rotary engine. I have a compression tester for a piston engine and it won't work on a rotary.
As for convincing them to test it. It seems to vary from dealer to dealer if they will do it. If you pay their basic inspection charge to hook it up to their diagnostic machine, I don't see why they wouldn't.
I suggest you post in the SE Regional forum and see if you can get some help more specific to your area. Also, maybe these guys can help you out: http://evolvnola.com/

Also, make sure you mention power loss and stalling specifically. But unfortunately different dealers handle it differently.

Thanks for advise. Im going to look around see if I can get anything done. Thanks again

I have an 04 RX8, silver MT.

I took my car in because it was sputtering and stalling at stop lights. I live in central texas and this "heat wave" is ridiculous. When I took it in, they said I needed a new main cat and that they would check the pressure in the engine. Today I found out, right before goin to finally pick her up, that I need a new engine. Thankfully I have under 100k, about 97k on it. Mazda is paying for the engine and replacement, but I have to wait another week..... I'm just happy I get a brand new engine at almost 100k. Is there anything else I need to make sure gets done?

I would have them intall a new fuel pump since the fuel pump and filter is one unit and should be changed at 100k.

I hope I get a new motor!! Still blaming it on everything else!!

so if your second engine goes out, mazda will still replace it? even third?

Yep. I had two replaced under the warranty extension and I believe there are several of us here that are on engine 3 and even 4. I'm sure the statistics would be more but I know of a couple local guys who bailed after theirs were replaced the first time.

I hope I get a new motor!! Still blaming it on everything else!!

do you know why?

cuz the dealership KNOWS that you dont know shit about the car. so yeah they will try to make you pay for EVERYTHING ELSE first before they finally say "oh yeah the engine is bad too, but dont worry we got that one", but thats probably after you pay 1-2 K in parts for no reason.

So yeah, you should Ask SE forum to see if there is any member there would go with you to the dealership. That way, they cant throw anymore bullshit at you and will start treating you seriously.


BTW, Bad idle could be bad spark plugs, coils, wires, Fuel pumps, bad alternator, etc. but if your engine dies at stop light on a HOT day (high than 85f)

then I am 99.9999% sure your engine is on its way to heaven.

Stalling with no obvious reason is usually a bad motor. Both of mine had the stalling issue.

I got the oxygen sensor in replaced it and of course went take a ride still stop on me at the stop sign!! I just dont know what to do. This will be the 6th time in the shop for the same problem what else can they blame it on?? What do I do I cant trade it in. It wont run Noone seems to be able to fix it!! I sure cant sell it ! Im just sooo disappointed I just dont know what to do. PLEASE help me find some answers!!!!

Its at Mazda again!! I told them no power and still killing at idle . He said maybe the engie is going out!! So hopefully After the 6th time in the shop they will find the problem!!

Don't get discouraged. You just have a suck ass dealer.

you need to tell them to do a compression check it!!!!!

I believe as long as the odometer says its under 100k miles you get new engines after that your screwed :)


I wish it was based on 100k for the engine itself, but if that where the case they would probably replace motors forever :)

Don't get discouraged. You just have a suck ass dealer.

I've had 3 suck ass dealerships in the past 5 years and have yet to get my engine issues resolved! Good Luck

you need to tell them to do a compression check it!!!!!

I believe as long as the odometer says its under 100k miles you get new engines after that your screwed :)


I wish it was based on 100k for the engine itself, but if that where the case they would probably replace motors forever :)

I told them this time to do a compression check since I have to pay a diagnose fee anyway!! He said he will look into it!

Well, my 2005 Galaxy Gray with 44216 miles on it is getting Number three. Then I discovered the new 100,000 mile warranty doesnt cover a rental car, But i will say this i called Mazda service and they didnt bat an eye at getting me a rental.
I love this car, best looking thing on the road, but they need to stop with the rebuild and just slap and new 2009 engine in there and move on.
GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Well, my 2005 Galaxy Gray with 44216 miles on it is getting Number three. Then I discovered the new 100,000 mile warranty doesnt cover a rental car, But i will say this i called Mazda service and they didnt bat an eye at getting me a rental.
I love this car, best looking thing on the road, but they need to stop with the rebuild and just slap and new 2009 engine in there and move on.
GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

You can't just slap in an 09, the cost to Mazda would be enormous, they might as well give you an whole new car...and that won't happen.

Not only do they need the all new EMOP set up, but all new engine bay and dash harnesses, all new PCM (ECU), plus other add ons...plus labor....Won't happen.

Yeah it would be nice though. This problem just destroys the cars resale.

You can't just slap in an 09, the cost to Mazda would be enormous, they might as well give you an whole new car...and that won't happen.

Not only do they need the all new EMOP set up, but all new engine bay and dash harnesses, all new PCM (ECU), plus other add ons...plus labor....Won't happen.

well i understand that, but lets see replace and rebuild three engines in one car, ship them all over the country to just be rebuilt and put in someone else 8. $4000 per engine so $12000 on my car alone plus an upset customer, rental fees. I think Mazda should rething there strategy.

yeah but mike people like us are pretty rare. Most people bail after the first engine and definitely after the second. I can't tell you how many 8's I see for sale advertising they have a new motor.

I just read something that said the Mobil 1 0W30 (fuel efficiency or whatever) has poor viscosity ratings. So I'm gonna see if I can find the Castrol in a 5qt jug. What marking do i look for to determine it's PAO?

If you're interested in the Mobile 1 stuff and going for a 30w oil you might do some research and find some UOA's on the 0w-40 oil that Mobile 1 sells. I ran into a couple UOA's on BITOG.com and they seem to indicate that the Mobile 1 0w-40 viscosity tends to thin to a thicker 30w oil. I haven't done any testing in my own car with that oil so take it for what it's worth.

Anything that is 0w is going to be a group IV PAO or a Group V Ester base stock. As nycgps pointed out there is a lot of stuff that's advertised as synthetic but is just hydrocracked Group III.

I'm actually running GC 0W30 now. I got in on the sale at autozone and bought 10 quarts and two K&N filters.

yeah but mike people like us are pretty rare. Most people bail after the first engine and definitely after the second. I can't tell you how many 8's I see for sale advertising they have a new motor.
As soon as mine RX8 comes out the shop with a new motor hopefully, Its going for sale! Way to much trouble!!

As soon as mine RX8 comes out the shop with a new motor hopefully, Its going for sale! Way to much trouble!!

I totally understand. I am way comfortable with a wrench in my hand and this car has been a handful for me. I got my car really cheap and its paid off so there is no point in selling it but if I was in the same boat as a lot of people I would get out as fast as I could. I just saw a showroom condition 04' GT with nav yesterday for $11,500.00.

well i understand that, but lets see replace and rebuild three engines in one car, ship them all over the country to just be rebuilt and put in someone else 8. $4000 per engine so $12000 on my car alone plus an upset customer, rental fees. I think Mazda should rething there strategy.

but if Mazda do as you said (give everybody a 09+ engine)

that means ALL RX-8's cost will go up by at least 15K, 1/2 of them will be labor cost.

Mazda can go bankrupt with it.

I still think Mazda shot themselves at the foot by recommending the 5w20. OMP injection hole pointing at the 2 corners is another cause.

I totally understand. I am way comfortable with a wrench in my hand and this car has been a handful for me. I got my car really cheap and its paid off so there is no point in selling it but if I was in the same boat as a lot of people I would get out as fast as I could. I just saw a showroom condition 04' GT with nav yesterday for $11,500.00.

how many miles?

how many miles?

Like 32k.

I would like to give you guys a update. Car has been at the dealer 3 weeks today. Had to replace fuel pump , fuel relay switch, alternator before they could approve a new motor. Got a phone call this morning to get together oil change receipts so my new motor can get approved !! Im finally getting a new motor about dam time!! Not sure if I should sell it now every part in it will be brand new!!
Just wondering how many replaced motor, fuel pumps, o2 sensor, colis, motor mounts, plugs, wires, tires, I could problay go on and on . And still has trouble??? Shou;d I sell or keep? The car is not ran hard its for my 17 daughter who is afraid of speed n cops.

I would like to give you guys a update. Car has been at the dealer 3 weeks today. Had to replace fuel pump , fuel relay switch, alternator before they could approve a new motor. Got a phone call this morning to get together oil change receipts so my new motor can get approved !! Im finally getting a new motor about dam time!! Not sure if I should sell it now every part in it will be brand new!!
Just wondering how many replaced motor, fuel pumps, o2 sensor, colis, motor mounts, plugs, wires, tires, I could problay go on and on . And still has trouble??? Shou;d I sell or keep? The car is not ran hard its for my 17 daughter who is afraid of speed n cops.

you got ripped. there is no reason to pay for fuel pump, fuel relay switch, and alternator before you get an "warranty item" from Mazda. your dealership just skinned you like a sheep :(

Hmm, as for reliability. lets put it this way.

Mazda underestimate a lot of stuff on early Rx-8, especially the 04 to early 06 model. Things got better starting mid-late 06 model. When I said "underestimate" I was talking about ECU tunning, Lube requirements, cooling requirements, etc.

As most of the ppl on this forum know Im a maintenance freak. I can go as crazy as 1000 miles oil change. but due to Mazda's early ECU fault, my engine still got its premature wear and eventually died *see my signature*. Now I got my replacement, its nice and strong.

To be honest with you this car is not as bad as it seems, just change your coils every 20-30 K miles, same thing for plugs, wires can go maybe 50-60, fuel pump hmm, your daughter not going to race it right? assume that your daughter will not let the tank go empty before re-filling it,60K miles(heat is what kills the pump, fuel is cooling, empty tank = overheating the pump) Alternator should last at least 80K miles.

if she babyes it all the time, carbon build up will be your next problem,

a redline a day keeps the carbon away

I'm about to buy my 8 soon. It's going to be my first car and I really really want this car, but seeing all this engine failure stuff is really giving me a chill down the spine...

I'm about to buy my 8 soon. It's going to be my first car and I really really want this car, but seeing all this engine failure stuff is really giving me a chill down the spine...
Just get one with a warranty

Thank god I have extended warranty so the fuel pump and alternator was no cost to me.
Make sure you have a good extended warranty if you do decide to buy one

if she babyes it all the time, carbon build up will be your next problem,

a redline a day keeps the carbon away

My husband says the same thing!! He red lines it for sure! He said thats why we have so mush trouble cause we baby it!lol

The red line crap is a bunch of bullshit. I drove both of my previous engines hard everyday and with excellent maintenance and they both failed. Unfortunately I never got to tear apart my previous engines so we will nevver know what the failure was.

I don't think the redline is a bunch of bullshit. It's preventive maintenance to help keep the cat from getting clogged up with carbon. While it wasn't what caused or didn't help your situation with the engine failures it doesn't mean it's BS ;)

I still have to believe that if someone like yourself had so many different engines to fail that something was up in the system of the car to give it improper feeding, possibly the ECU or such was bad? They only replaced the engine itself while everything else stayed the same such as the throttle body, intake, fuel lines, fuel pump, all electronics, etc?

Yeah there are a ton of people that have had multiple replacements though. I still believe carbon build up was an issue, I just don't think redlining it all the time helps. Plenty of tear downs have shown carbon build up even on engines that were tracked hard and red lined a ton. Personally I think it a combination of poor design factors. All of these issues will be addressed over time as the 09's get up there in mileage. If there are 09's with issues then we know what the main issue is.

FWIW I have added decarb to my yearly maintenance routine.

I think its your location, the heat, and I said a redline a day. not every shift from every stop

It has something to do with your location (hot hot hot), the oil weight (cough) and ... Synthetic :)

There are tear downs with Synthetic showing little to no carbon build up.

Red line the engine is a typical thing for the whole Rotary community, it known to work. so ... just keep doing it. it doesnt hurt :)

It has something to do with your location (hot hot hot), the oil weight (cough) and ... Synthetic :)

There are tear downs with Synthetic showing little to no carbon build up.

Red line the engine is a typical thing for the whole Rotary community, it known to work. so ... just keep doing it. it doesnt hurt :)
what oil do you use?

what oil do you use?

my "last, failed" engine first use 5w20, then it use 5w30, 5w40 and finally failed.

Now its using 20w50, and I premix too.

ah.......hum....... wiener dog?

does one synthetic burn better then another?

Heat is definitely an issue I think which is why I chose to monitor my oil temps and pressure more closely as well as choosing a quality synthetic oil. I also modded the vents behind the oil coolers.

I also just bought a Richard Sohn adapter today and I will be running clean Idemitsu through it to the rotors. I am still debating on premixing with the Sohn adapter but I'm not sure. Idemitsu is a pain to get so I may premix Lucas UCL and run Idemitsu through the SOHN.

Hard to get?

Yeah ordering a freakin' case, paying shipping, waiting for it, etc. It's a hassle. I wish I could walk down to NAPA and just buy it.

getting in the car, dealing with other crazy drivers, stopping at traffic lights. going into the store, have every jo, asking you if they can help you, then paying the clerk, while he deals his sales pitch, then back into traffic, that seems like a hassle

or sit at your computer, wait your already there, go to a website order, and wait for it to show up at your front door

getting in the car, dealing with other crazy drivers, stopping at traffic lights. going into the store, have every jo, asking you if they can help you, then paying the clerk, while he deals his sales pitch, then back into traffic, that seems like a hassle

Man, where do you shop? Besides, I love driving my car so any chance to do that is a treat and I love going to the auto parts store. Not to mention I have an Autozone, Pep boys, O'reilly's, and and Advance Auto Parts all within a mile of my house.

short trips no no

Yeah I never go anywhere without fully warming up my car. Going to and from work is usually when I do my stops unless I plan a day of errands.

that sucks

New update!! Got the phone call today new motor is being ordered today everything was approved with a little fight!! Should have car by middle of next week!! Its only been there about 4 weeks already but ill wait as long as something is getting done.
I ask about using a different oil cause we use 5w20 . he said I can only use 5w20 or the motor will NOT be covered under the warranty and I need to continue to keep record of it!! Im just sooo happy to finally get some good news about the car!!

Congrat amber!

Mine's still at the dealership. Went in today and they told me they're waiting on a new tool for checing the barometric sensor. Something about a "new method of testing" Mazda now wants the dealerships to use.
The service manager says everything will be covered, a new compression test and whatever these new tests are.

Something about a "new method of testing" Mazda now wants the dealerships to use.

New as of January of 2007! lol

New as of January of 2007! lol

Gee thanks! Now, I'm even more worried. They did just open this dealership about a year ago and there aren't many 8's around here... coinkidink? This is my third dealership.... I was hoping for a good one this time.

New update!! Got the phone call today new motor is being ordered today everything was approved with a little fight!! Should have car by middle of next week!! Its only been there about 4 weeks already but ill wait as long as something is getting done.
I ask about using a different oil cause we use 5w20 . he said I can only use 5w20 or the motor will NOT be covered under the warranty and I need to continue to keep record of it!! Im just sooo happy to finally get some good news about the car!!


Just get it changed with something better (this is debatable) and tell the place to document 5W-20. All my documents stated 10W30 and they didn't blink and eye but hell the first time they didn't ask me for shit.

Ohh they asked for everything!! They said no 1st cause my oil changes were hand written receipts . The dearler had to fight thank goodness its been in the shop for the same problem about 6 times thats what got the new motor approved We suppose to get the car wed. so Ill let you guys know how she runs!! Thanks for all yall help and advise!

Okay so I did my first real oil change (first one after breakin oil change) with 100% 0W30 GC. I will be sending a sample to Blackstone for shits and giggles. I tried but gave up (sturdy MF) on cutting apart the K&N oil filter to see how the magnets on the filter worked.

/\ Don't worry the magnets would have done their job..

Every RX-8 should have some form of Oil magnet, sump plug and or Oil Filter, or Both.

Use a saw on the filter

I have two curved magnets around the drain pan bolt and two SCSI magnets on the filter. I was actually surprised how dirty the oil was because It only had like 1500-2000 miles on it (changed it to 0W30 after the 1000 mile break in).

Use a saw on the filter


HaHa, I used a hack saw and after five minutes I had barely made any progress. I have never seen a oil filter casing that thick. I should have taken pics.

If you make it through you would get large metal filings or swarf clinging to the magnets inside filter..;)

Okay, I have my head in too many threads so I figure I would come back her to state my conclusions as of today at nearly 100,000.00 Texas miles.

Not in any certain order.

1. Premix is necessary.
2. SOHN is necessary if you really plan on keeping this car for a long while.
3. Synthetic 0W-30 or higher is necessary.
4. Max out OIC's of 3,000 to 5,000 miles (at most) or double oil changes are necessary.
5. Checking your oil at every fill-up and topping off as needed is necessary.
6. Warming your car up fully before driving is necessary.

These are optional but needed in my opinion.

1. Quality Oil Temp and Coolant temp gauge.
2. Oil cooler Vent Mod (or one large high quality oil cooler)
3. Higher Capacity oil pan.

Now some questions. Opinions are welcome.

There is such a thing as too much premix (excessive carbon build up). Is there reasonable way to determine how much is just right? I am currently using Lucas UCL as premix but should I use it in my SOHN? Since I don't have a cat converter is there really a reason to use a more expensive premix (protek, idemitsu, amsoil) in my SOHN instead of say Pennzoil synthetic 2 stroke?

Still running like a top. 8,000 on her so far. Premix since day one, 93 octane Shell only, Mobil1 0W-40. :)

HaHa, I used a hack saw and after five minutes I had barely made any progress. I have never seen a oil filter casing that thick. I should have taken pics.

You need a "dual saw"! lol
I recently watched that tv ad. haha

Good to see your 8 is running well. I've been premixing with Lucas UCL as well since it's cheap & easy to find at wally world. I'm planning on getting a case of Idemitsu through our group buy if that goes through.

still going strong?

10,000 miles and counting :) Just replaced the radiator and coolant hoses this past weekend. Mazmart OP kit and tranny flush happening this weekend.

10,000 miles and counting :) Just replaced the radiator and coolant hoses this past weekend. Mazmart OP kit and tranny flush happening this weekend.

sweet. i've only put about 7k on my new engine since it was replaced. been using idemitsu/lucas ucl in every tank.