people are telling me that if i'm doing short trips, to prevent flooding i'm supposed to rev the car up to 3.5k-4k rpms and shut off the engine. they say it will prevent the flooding issue,
anyone hear of this ?

yep... it's referenced many times throughout the owner's manual... as well as the DVD...

what does "crank the car" mean exactly?

so does that mean if i'm doing long enough trips for the engine to warm up i shouldnt have to rev it before i shut off?

Duh

what does "crank the car" mean exactly?Spin the engine using the starter motor.

Just as a review, this has been published many times before.

From the Mazda RX-8 "Quick Tips" booklet, the Mazda Short trip driving procedure:

Any trip that is too short for the engine to reach normal operating temperature; needle in middle of temperature gauge indicates normal temperature. The following procedure should be followed when moving vehicle a short distance:

1. Start engine
2. Move vehicle
3. Warm engine for 5-minutes at idle
4. Raise engine speed to 3000 RPM for 10-seconds
5. Return to idle
6. Turn off engine


From the "Engine cranks no start" TSB, the Mazda dechoke procedure:

DE-CHOKING PROCEDURE WHEN ENGINE CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START

If the engine does not start, try the following procedure to start the engine using the de-choke mode. Failure to do so may aggravate the no start condition.

1. Depress and hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and crank the engine for 7-8 seconds. (This will clean out any unburned fuel from the combustion chamber)

2. Release the ignition key to stop cranking.

3. Release the accelerator pedal and start the engine. If the engine starts while performing Step 1, the engine will rev up. Immediately release the ignition key to stop cranking and remove your foot from the accelerator pedal.

• Do not keep holding the ignition switch in the START position over 10 seconds if the engine does not start. This may result in a weakened or dead battery.

• Avoid racing the engine or sudden take off right after starting the engine.

• If the engine still fails to start following the De-choking procedure, have your vehicle inspected by your Mazda Dealer.

obviously i am an idiot here or something but how can you crank the starter without the car actually starting? wont the engine start and with your foot on the gas already won't the engine red line?

Well if you pull the CB for the fuel pump, the engine doesn't get fuel which is required to start the engine, therefore all you do is pump air thought the rotor and blow out any accumulated fuel

obviously i am an idiot here or something but how can you crank the starter without the car actually starting? wont the engine start and with your foot on the gas already won't the engine red line?

it is in the flood procedure. flooring an un started motor then cranking kills fuel flow..

beers :beer:

This poll should be restarted because:

-It is inaccurate. I voted no but later could not start and could not change my vote.
-It should be broken up into different model years to show if and to what extent the problem is persisting.

obviously i am an idiot here or something but how can you crank the starter without the car actually starting? wont the engine start and with your foot on the gas already won't the engine red line?

The connection between the accelerator pedal and the engine is electrical, not mechanical. The electronics interpret a fully depressed pedal as as "fuel cutoff" during engine cranking, so trapped fuel is simply blown out the exhaust. Hence, it is unlikely the engine will start in this situation.

However, the Mazda procedure does note that if the engine should catch anyway while dechoking (from the fuel trapped in the engine), you should both release the key from the starter position and remove your foot from the pedal. An overrev would only occur if you released the key but kept the pedal fully depressed for a period of time.

When mine flooded, I took out a plug and inserted a compression tester. With the accelerator floored, there was a sudden dramatic pressure rise, and a sound as if it had caught after a few rotations of the crank. There was just that one pulse, but it is possible for the residual gas to ignite in a flooded engine.

I just bought a 05 RX-8 with only 220 miles from the dealer. He told me they got it from a dealership that went out of business in some other state. They never mentioned the bad milage and the oil usage but I can live with that. But this flooding ordeal really bugs me, makes me want to never shut it off. I bought this for the wife and i am a little concerned about it. Can they sometimes be restarted the way the book say's or do they always have to be towed back to the dealer. Also how often does it happen? please reassure me that I bought a good car or great car

please reassure me that I bought a good car or great car

Yes, you have bought a great car.

If the engine warms up you have nothing to worry about, the only issue is when you need to cut off the car when the engine has not reached normal operating temp. If you follow the Mazda short trip procedure you should OK.

Also, you may want to have you dealer check to confirm if you car has received the upgraded battery, starter and plugs.

what do you mean about "oil usage"? does the engine burn oil or something?

what do you mean about "oil usage"? does the engine burn oil or something?

No I what I meant was having to check it all the time and adding some once in a while. I am an old piston guy, not used to that

what do you mean about "oil usage"? does the engine burn oil or something?

Actually the RENESIS (and other Mazda rotary engines) does burn oil. It is intentionally mixed with the fuel and then injected into the intake manifold to lubricate (I believe) the apex seals.

That is why it is important to regularly keep an eye on your oil level. No big deal.

please reassure me that I bought a good car or great car

I know of a female acquaintance who owns an 04 RX-8 as her daily driver. When I asked her about flooding, she looked at me puzzled and after further explanation about flooding issues, she shook her head with a 'No... Never'. She is the middle aged asian lady-type that one would typically see at malls or dim sum restaurants. So I know she is not the type that would take care of cars. I summize that flooding is a bit overblown.

When I flooded my '8, I had started it/moved it/turned it off to shuffle the cars in my driveway; was running for about 30 seconds. Next time I wen to start it, the classic flood symptoms. I didn't know about holding the pedal to the floor, so I did the only thing I could think of - I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it for about 10 seconds; reinstalled the fuse, and it started immediately, although it took about 20 seconds to "clear" itself and run smoothly. I can live with this; I love this car.

Once you have experienced flooding your RX-8 you will understand. It doesn't happen often. But when it does occur, it is a pain in the butt. Fortunately, with patience, jumper cables and alot of cussing I was able to get it restarted every time.

I have an 04 MT I bought new in Dallas. I moved to the mountains in CO at an altitude of approx 8,700 ft. about a year later. I don't know if that has much to do with it, but it didn't happen until I moved here. After it happened twice, the dealer in Colorado Springs did change out my starter and battery and plugs and that seemed to fix the problem for about a year, but it has happened again... twice. Once at the ranch and just yesterday to my son in Florida-he has yet to get it restarted (so it is not isolated to high altitudes).

Looks like i flooded my motor by what the dealer is telling me, went to start the car this morning and it wouldn't start checked all the connections and so forth and then called the dealer and the said that it might have flooded so my car is on the way in to the dealer on a towe truck

So heres what the dealer told me about my flooded engine the alternator has gone bad and spark plugs need to be replaced so new alternator, battery, and plugs total of 700 good thing my extended warranty is picking this up.

fuck this shit. im sick and tired of it! It flooded!! and i have to get it moved to the dealership fucking 100 dollars, what next 8?!?!?! what next!! i swear i take care of my car and it still does shit that shouldnt be a problem. I'm really getting tired of it! I love my car, don't get me wrong! But should this kind of thing happen?!?! No, the car should be reliable to drive in the god damn morning after not driving it for 2 days except for once to move it really quickly from a parking spot near a burning house! fuck this

ndsind1 - my car has flooded a few times in the past, and yes, it did seem to occur most often in colder weather (cold weather here in Vancouver, BC might not be cold to others, but I'm talking roughly 0-5 degrees celsius).

I couldn't believe it when I first had the car towed to the shop - first the tow truck driver told me the RX-8 is the most common car he now tows. Then, the shop manager told me that I need to run the car for 5-10 minutes everytime I start it, otherwise I'm prone to flooding. I'm now very careful about this... But what a pain in the ...!

O.K. Noob here to the RX-8 forum, but owner of an FC3S (86-91) '7. The '7 list is down today... :)

I haven't read the whole 62 pages of this thread, but have gathered that the '8 will cut off the fuel when starting holding the throttle open, correct? How many has this helped. Obviously, it won't help if the engine is severely flooded, since compression will be down because of all the oil being washed away. Some have had success pouring ATF or Oil into a vacuum line instead of the trouble (?) of removing the spark plugs. Has this worked for any of you?

Also, the flooding in a rotary due to cold weather shutdown, will 'fix' itself if you don't start it for a while (a few hours), once the fuel evaporates a bit. Because of this, the problem with flooding may be more prevalent than it seems, since many may have flooded their engine, and not realized it because the engine started a few hours later.

It would be interesting to have people start their car, run for a minute, wait 5 minutes and try to start normally, to get a better sense of it.

It is easy to avoid flooding once you know what's up, but for those who don't know it can be a major inconvenience. I think Mazda should have incoorporated something like a turbo timer, but I just remembered, if someone parks in a garage, there'd be problems with that. I like the idea of a label warning about cold shut downs, better training for owners by Mazda, etc. /rambling

Mine just flooded and its going to cost me almost $400.00!!!!

You better believe I am going high up in Mazda to get some answers. They should really make people sign a contract stating the the engine can NOT be turned on and off when cold.

This is NOT right, the customers having to pay out of their pocket for a defect with the Rotary Engine!

Mine just flooded and its going to cost me almost $400.00!!!!

You better believe I am going high up in Mazda to get some answers. They should really make people sign a contract stating the the engine can NOT be turned on and off when cold.

This is NOT right, the customers having to pay out of their pocket for a defect with the Rotary Engine!

amen. this is their problem, not mine for being an ignorant.

It would be nice if those of you who have flooded recently would comment on how many miles their engines have and if they have the latest computer flash (Upgrade) from Mazda.

Please be aware that a weak battery (Often compounded by cold weather) is often the culprit.

It would be nice if those of you who have flooded recently would comment on how many miles their engines have and if they have the latest computer flash (Upgrade) from Mazda.

Please be aware that a weak battery (Often compounded by cold weather) is often the culprit.

I had the latest Emission Recall 4260F done last year in Sept. That was suppose to address the flooding problem.............its obvious it didn't!

I have 42,500 miles on my car as of yesterday.

2005 with 25,000 km (15,000 miles)


I recently had an awful experience at the Toronto airport involving my flooded RX8.

The airport has a very handy valet parking service (you see where this is going). I was running late, and used it, as I had many times before ...with my Lexus, or my Honda. First time with the RX8.

Upon return to the city, the attendant drove the car part way in anticipation of my flight arrival (they note your flight arrival time). He then turned it off and then attempted to start it again for the short final trip to where I was waiting.

No way. Dead.


The subsequent towing from the 6th floor of the airport parking structure was a nightmare ...too many bumps and not enough clearance for a flatbed tow-truck. It was finally dragged to Gyro Mazda in north central Toronto. They charged me for the parts, but not labor. All in, it was an expensive night. And I got home to my family at 1:00am instead of at 9:00pm.


It is a serious problem.

So how did you actually get the car out of the garage without the flat bed?

okay this is frigging gay. Mine 2004 rx8 flooded 2 days ago. I bought this in last year October (so juz a bit more than a year). The warranty expired in June this year. so I spent $180 for the towing service.

Just got back the car, and it frigging costs me $500. I am so gonna call up the NA customer relations and yelled at them.

My mileage is juz 34000km.

So is the cost of getting the flooded car fixed/started covered by the warranty?

Well, it actually happened to me over the weekend. I have read many posts from others on how the RX-8 has flooding issues. When I realized that it was probably flooded, I immediately went to this forum for advice. Then I followed a procedure that has you disconnect a few connections, followed by removing the spark plugs to blow out the fuel residue by cranking the motor. I tried to find the link for it, but I didn't have any luck. In the meantime, my car was towed to the Mazda Dealer. Does anybody have an idea of what I should expect? Will this be covered by the warranty or will I have to pay out of pocket? If so, how much?

Thanks for any feedback!

Mike - Owner of a 04' 6M-Sunlight Silver GT RX-8

By the way, my car has approx. 36000 mi on it.

Mine flooded 2 days ago. I was not aware of that common flooded issue so I had no clue what was going on.
I had to take the car out of the garage, I started it no problem but did not let it the time to rev and I put it on reserve right away. The car moved 1 foot and stopped. After that, it did not want to start. Warranty is covering it for the first time they told me but they charged me the oil change. Car is a automatic 2007 with 12000km (7 monts old). Now I know what not to do, although in the past I started the car for 30 sec quite often and it never happened...

Yup, it is covered under the warranty.

I have an 04' RX8 and it has flooded twice on me. The first time they just deflooded my motor. This last time, they had to change out the ignition coils, spark plugs, deflooded the motor and now they are telling me I need a new starter (it is worn out from static conditions...) Does anyone know how much I should be paying to have a new starter put in my vehicle and have new plugs, etc. done?

to Justhavinfun....

I had all of the same work done and it was covered under a recall, so you might want to ask about that.

I think the guys at the body shop flooded mine, moving it all of 30 feet a half dozen times in a week and all....

2004 A/T with about 21k on it. I live in Wisconsin so it's been pretty cold around here lately. I've generally been careful with getting the engine up to normal temp before shutting off but, ah, one time I forgot to and now it sits in my driveway. :banghead: I tried the deflooding procedure that Mazda gives but no luck. How often does this work and anything else I can do short of getting towed to the local dealer?

2004 A/T with about 21k on it. I live in Wisconsin so it's been pretty cold around here lately. I've generally been careful with getting the engine up to normal temp before shutting off but, ah, one time I forgot to and now it sits in my driveway. :banghead: I tried the deflooding procedure that Mazda gives but no luck. How often does this work and anything else I can do short of getting towed to the local dealer?

push it out of your garage, and try to push start it, 99% of times it will work.

I am still wondering why I never flood. Sometimes I just shut it off cold to wash the baby. hmm no flood.

and where did all these *1 or 2 post* people came from ?

I recently bought my '04--no problems until the winter started to hit and I figured that this was a good place to come to get some info on what might be happening. Why is it an issue that people only have 1 or 2 posts?

The body shop I took my car to complained that my battery was dying.

It sounded more to me like they flooded it, and then ran down the battery trying to re-start it.

Eventually, they were able to get to start and charge the battery up.

Could this have done any damage to the plugs or the engine, or that only when you cannot get it re-started.

Thanks,
Dan

flooded last week. 31,825 miles, towed it, they fixed/flashed/did somethin with the starter. "checked the battery" in their inspection.. and now 1 day after I have it back the battery is dead, had it jumped, left it running for 20 min.. died right when I hit the gas... jumped.. died.. towed in again. this time prolly for the alternator.

My car has had recalls done, engine has been flashed several times. took it in to get checked for the big engine recall too, they said it was fine. oh well.. costs them a day of labor , a rental for 4 days and a tow fee everytime my engine crews up.

One more time folks:

Insufficient cranking speed is one of the main causes of flooding. That being the case, make sure your batteries are FULLY charged, all your computer updates have been performed and that the car is in tune.

What happens is winter time is hard on batteries and cranking engines with colder oil and engine parts is a tougher task on the system assigned to do so. Less than optimum cranking speed and the combustion chamber is overwhelmed with fuel.

I recommend a battery tender to those of you who park your cars for days at a time and the rest of you should have yours checked for the sake of it at winter time. Old crappy sparkplugs need to go. They will complicate matters.

Seal

One more time folks:

Insufficient cranking speed is one of the main causes of flooding. That being the case, make sure your batteries are FULLY charged, all your computer updates have been performed and that the car is in tune.

What happens is winter time is hard on batteries and cranking engines with colder oil and engine parts is a tougher task on the system assigned to do so. Less than optimum cranking speed and the combustion chamber is overwhelmed with fuel.

I recommend a battery tender to those of you who park your cars for days at a time and the rest of you should have yours checked for the sake of it at winter time. Old crappy sparkplugs need to go. They will complicate matters.

Seal

I second the battery tender, as well as an OPTIMA yellow top battery for these brutes. I'm still suspect of failing coils as being contributors to the problem.

I had this problem every since I purchased this car (Nov 2003). The first time it flooded, it happened in Feb 2004. It has happened 4 times since then. The last time was last weekend. Drove the car the entire day, parked it in the garage, and the next day it wouldn't start. I personally am tired of having to tow this car to the dealer. They tell me to let it idle for about a minute before and after I drive it. I have done that and it still floods. Now I am looking to get rid of it because I don't have the time or patience for this car.

Two seasons and 14k on my '05 (bought it new 30 March 06) and nary a flood. It already had the new starter/battery and later got the updated flash.

I don't run it for very short distances, say just out of the garage for washing. I generally do the 3k for 10 seconds shutdown went not fully warmed (never less than half-warmed).

Bah. Flooded mine this morning, or last night, apparently. Sucks. First time, though, in 4+ years.

I usually am very careful to always drive it a ways, but yesterday, I just wanted to get a light bulb replaced in my garage, and then swap on my winter wheels.

I'll have to try the "remove spark plugs" thing first, then deal with getting a tow tomorrow. Bleah.

And my warranty just expired, I think.

~31,000 miles, I believe, and I got the car Sept 03.

Wolf, if you haven't tried it already or don't already know about it, try pulling the fuse for the fuel pump; then crank the motor for about 5 seconds at a time, with about 30 seconds between cranks. Do this five or six times, then reinstall the fuel pump fuse. Now, before you try the next part, have a jumper box or jumper cables on the car unless you have a really strong battery. When you're sure the battery is strong enough, push the accellerator to the floor and crank it. Hopefully it will catch but may run roughly for a few seconds until it clears itself out. I hope this saves you having to pull the plugs or have a tow. Good luck, tell us how it works out.

Thanks, zenrx8, I did not know about that.... but no luck.

Towing today, should be at the dealership probably until tomorrow unless they can squeeze it in today. Ah well. Hopefully it won't set me back too much to get it cleaned out.

I haven't personally flooded the engine, but when I put the vehicle away for storage for the winter which is in my mother's garage she had to move it the day after to clear somethign from garage. She pumped the gas like you would an older vehicle and she flooded the vehicle.

Thanks, zenrx8, I did not know about that.... but no luck.

Towing today, should be at the dealership probably until tomorrow unless they can squeeze it in today. Ah well. Hopefully it won't set me back too much to get it cleaned out.

Hey Wolf:

Flooded the vehicle on 12/16/07. Actually out of warranty due to time. I have 40k but over three years.

The dealer says that Mazda has extended the warranty to 6yr/60k.

They de-flooded and replaced four burnt coils. All of this was FREE/paid by Mazda.

Don't let them charge you a dime. I was reading a post from several weeks back that someone says they were charged hundreds of dollars. Don't let it happen.

Good Luck. Also, since I don't drive the car, the wife does, I'm thinking it may be time to get rid of it. Any vehicle in the year 2007/2008 that actually floods and can't be restarted by the owner is unacceptable.

Good Luck

Well, good news on that front: they deflooded the engine, flashed the PCM, and did a few other assorted 'free' stuff relating to this and other recalls ...

... then recommended more services, which, as usual, I went ahead and did - I don't mind preventative maintenance. So it wasn't a free visit, but they probably would have suggested the other services next time I came in anyway, so ... shrug.

so here is my question:

If you flood and didnt wanna deal with towing it to a dealer, can the start be guaranteed if you:
put the car in 2nd gear, hold the clutch in, tow it to 15-20mph, dump the clutch, press on the gas after it catches and rev it to 6000rpm for 5 - 10 seconds?

will this work every time?

I live in Ohio and garage my Eight, but I like to start it periodically in the winter and drive it whenever the weather's good or there's no salt on the road. It's good for the car to do that. Anyway, I've had the cold weather flooding issue twice. Once it was so bad I had to pull my plugs and blow compressed air into the plug holes, an old drag racer's trick to unflood an engine. Flooding happens when there's too much liquid fuel in the engine & manifold; only vapors burn.

Whever I get in my Eight and it's cold outside, I pump the throttle twice to the floor. Then I take my foot off the gas and crank, it starts EVERY SINGLE TIME no matter the temperature. Maybe this is in the owner's manual or something (I don't have it with me right now) but the car fires right the hell up, every single time.

People kill me on chat boards... there's one guy who wants to sell his Eight just because it floods. There's another guy who "can't understand why people think this [flooding] is a problem."

Poor battery power @ crank-up is just asking for it.

I tend to let my 8 sit from week-end to week-end since it's not anyone's daily mule.

About 3 week-ends ago, the starter wouldn't even crank at all, like the battery was dead. Sure enough, when I jumped it, it fired right up. After a nice joy ride to chrage it up, it acted fine all weekend.

The next week-end, it wouldn't crank again! Ah man, this battery must be in bad shape, I thought. It's the better battery that I got with the better starter about a year and a half ago. That's awfully new to be going bad already.

I got in there to check the electrolyte level, just to be sure, before I yanked it for a repacement. The level was perfect. I pulled on the ground cable and it moved! Not tight! It was snug, sorta, but not tight. I tightened it and buttoned it all up, and it cranked right up.

I'm not sure if I like the cable clamps. Y'all might want to check yours too. It takes 2 minutes, and the only tool you need is the wrench to tighten the clamp.

btw, I'm one of the first owners, a pre-order guy. Well over 4 years now (albeit, very low mileage so far), with not a hint of flooding ever. Just thought this thread needed a ray of sunshine...

My engine just flooded saturday morning. I woke up to move spaces from my driveway, didnt let the engine warmup and i just shut it off quick and later that same morning around 11am when i had to go to work it didnt start. i tried jumping it and crankin it but it just wont start. called up mazda dealership and they cant take a look @ it till wednesday, so i have to wait till then...never thought this would happen to me since the latest recall was done to my 8 AND I ALWAYS let my engine warm up and just so happens that morning i didnt...THIS SUCKS!!...:banghead:

Firstly, I live in San Diego so the car doesn't normally see weather below 50 deg., which is probably why I haven't had this problem before. I drove home on vacation and started the car in about 35 deg. weather just to move it to another parking space, shut it right off not knowing better.

Three days later it wouldn't start...it was cranking fine but wouldn't fire. I hooked it up to a battery charger, same thing. Of course by trying to crank it over and over again I was only making the problem worse by dumping more fuel into the engine! There are no Mazda dealers in this area so I had it towed to an independent shop that I trust. They sorted it out, $100 later it's fine and I will NOT be making that mistake again.

It seems to me that this is a pretty big glitch for a modern, EFI, fully computerized car. Every car buff knows that it's bad to run your car for a short period of time, without letting it run through a heat cycle. But it isn't acceptable to me that it would run so rich as to leave the engine flooded when you shut it off and leave the owner with a car that needs maintenance to start again.

I love the 8 and I do not plan on getting rid of it. But it's a valid argument to question why a brand new car has problems with flooding. Wouldn't mazda know and do something about it? Maybe something within in the car's computer?

I understand it's a sports car and you have to give it special attention. But they would have had to entertained the idea some bozo 16 year old, or some clueless woman would just turn the key on, smash it into gear, and hit the gas. And they wouldn't have the slightest idea to let it warm up.

Now, I always let my car warm up, and my girlfriends HATES me for it. If she's running late to work, and I'm parked in front of her, I wait for my car to warm up. She get's so impatient. So it's a small inconvenience, but it's well worth it for the joy I get out of the car. I usually let it settle to 1000 rpms, and 1500 if I'm in a rush. I let the engine settle a little bit so I know it's ready to go. And I wait until it completely warms up to DRIVE the car.

The point is, just do it

I love the 8 and I do not plan on getting rid of it. But it's a valid argument to question why a brand new car has problems with flooding. Wouldn't mazda know and do something about it? Maybe something within in the car's computer?

I understand it's a sports car and you have to give it special attention. But they would have had to entertained the idea some bozo 16 year old, or some clueless woman would just turn the key on, smash it into gear, and hit the gas. And they wouldn't have the slightest idea to let it warm up.

Now, I always let my car warm up, and my girlfriends HATES me for it. If she's running late to work, and I'm parked in front of her, I wait for my car to warm up. She get's so impatient. So it's a small inconvenience, but it's well worth it for the joy I get out of the car. I usually let it settle to 1000 rpms, and 1500 if I'm in a rush. I let the engine settle a little bit so I know it's ready to go. And I wait until it completely warms up to DRIVE the car.

The point is, just do it

Generally speaking, brand new 8s aren't flooding. Mazda has taken care of it.

This may sound strange but you're better off NOT letting the car sit there idling to warm up. The enrichment (Fuel enrichment that is) that occurrs when a car is cold is extended by sitting waiting vs gently driving. Fuel enrichment causes fuel dilution of yor oil, carbon buidup on your sparkplugs and on engine internals (Rotors, exhaust ports, intake mechanisms etc) and can therefore even CAUSE flooding.

Unless you live in an area that is dangerous to drive gently when you leave home (Like close to a highway) you should start your car and drive mildly until full operating temps. Otherwise, if you're starting your car just to move it out of your girlfriends way, why don't you get out of her way and then let it warm up?

Seal.

It'll warm up far more quickly and more effiecently if you just drive around at low throttle openings + rpm, as ceramic says.

I concur with the last two.

...and you don't need your girlfriend to resent the car. :nono:

Word

Having been the victim of two no-start situations, I now hold the accelerator to the floor for a few seconds before releasing it during cranking if I have any concerns about the car not starting. Examples of such situations are:
-after starting the car and not letting the engine warm up before shutting it off
-after a long period of not starting, such as a prolonged period in an airport parking lot
-under very cold conditions.

Holding the accelerator to the floor prevents the injection of fuel, with the expected benefits being
-helps clear out any residual gas in the chambers
-warms up the combustion chamber from compression heating of the air
-gets the rotors up to speed with hopefully better compression before the fuel is injected.

This has worked for me but there is no way of knowing if it was necessary. Also, it has been suggested that some of the latest flashes already hold off the fuel injection for a while. I believe the extra delay is beneficial for conditions such as mentioned above, but who knows.

Looks like I'm a victim of cold weather (11deg F) and too slow crank over. I've been charging the battery overnite for 3 nites, but I didn't know about holding the gas to the floor. My bat (oem) is being charged by bat shop now. Car is an early 04, but is supposedly up to date on recalls, had the plugs replaced as part of dlr 30K service this summer. Currently about 4oK miles. I'm careful about running the car until warm, and always 'rev" engine to 3-4K on shut down. Also use only name brand premium fuel, plus Lucas UCL additive, 2-3 oz per fuel fill. Thoughts/ suggestions? Kinda afraid of getting ripped off at the dealer.
Thanks!

i took my turbo off my 8 and also the int. x and i try turning the car on with a home made intake, it started but as soon as i hit the gas it just turn off on me and made a back fire noise but very deep and smog came out, it smell just like it didnt burn the gas right. i put an aem intake and change to the oem spark plugs but it still wont turn on. does any one have any idea what to do?

Looks like I'm a victim of cold weather (11deg F) and too slow crank over. I've been charging the battery overnite for 3 nites, but I didn't know about holding the gas to the floor. My bat (oem) is being charged by bat shop now. Car is an early 04, but is supposedly up to date on recalls, had the plugs replaced as part of dlr 30K service this summer. Currently about 4oK miles. I'm careful about running the car until warm, and always 'rev" engine to 3-4K on shut down. Also use only name brand premium fuel, plus Lucas UCL additive, 2-3 oz per fuel fill. Thoughts/ suggestions? Kinda afraid of getting ripped off at the dealer.
Thanks!


Couple of thoughts. First, you said this is the OEM battery; perhaps a silly question on my part, but is it the original battery? If so, might be time for a new battery; I'd recommend trying an Optima Yellow Top. Second, unless the coils have been replaced, they surely need it at 40K miles. Mine were already toasted and showing signs of arcing at 22K, and weak spark doesn't help with this problem. Third, you current plugs have 10K miles; I'd replace them with NGKs and drop the gap to .035.

Reading this thread seems to indicate that a lot of problems are cropping up at 30-40K even when owners are careful about shutdown/warmup. Knowing that the stock ignition components are essentially shot well before that time, I can't help but wonder if their demise is furthering the tendency of this motor to flood. And as far as the 08 models go, I hope that Mazda has fixed that problem, but it will be interesting to see what happens after these owners get some miles on their cars.

i took my turbo off my 8 and also the int. x and i try turning the car on with a home made intake, it started but as soon as i hit the gas it just turn off on me and made a back fire noise but very deep and smog came out, it smell just like it didnt burn the gas right. i put an aem intake and change to the oem spark plugs but it still wont turn on. does any one have any idea what to do?


Maybe, just maybe, this problem has to do with your "home-made intake" with regards to the postion of the vacuum fitting relative to the MAF sensor; the vacuum fitting needs to be as far downstream in the intake as possible from the MAF and of course, no leaks. As much as I hate to mention this, maybe the MAF sensor is damaged/shot. Best wild assed guesses on my part, good luck.

I live in Ohio and garage my Eight, but I like to start it periodically in the winter and drive it whenever the weather's good or there's no salt on the road. It's good for the car to do that. Anyway, I've had the cold weather flooding issue twice. Once it was so bad I had to pull my plugs and blow compressed air into the plug holes, an old drag racer's trick to unflood an engine. Flooding happens when there's too much liquid fuel in the engine & manifold; only vapors burn.
Whever I get in my Eight and it's cold outside, I pump the throttle twice to the floor. Then I take my foot off the gas and crank, it starts EVERY SINGLE TIME no matter the temperature. Maybe this is in the owner's manual or something (I don't have it with me right now) but the car fires right the hell up, every single time.



Now there's a neat trick for the arsenal. AJ, do you remember what he plugs looked like when you pulled them?

Thanks zenrx8! OK to answer your questions. The leading coils were replaced by dlr when plugs were replaced, but the other 2 I dont know (bought the car used about a yr ago). Yes the battery is original panasonic but bat shop (who I'm sure would like to sell me a new one) sez there is nothing wrong with it. I noticed that the pana battery is quite tall, this is a good bat design since allows plate corrosion to fall to bottom without causing shorts between plates (shorter hight batteries fail sooner for this reason). But, when you say Optima yellow top is that the brand name? (I see Mazda recommends Interstate but that is nothing special IMHO). RE: Plugs. You mention NGK, agreed that is great brand. Any special size/ type? Mazda TSB shows pic of specific plug that is "hotter" (I assume hotter heat range) and also has notches cut into the metal housing, prob somthing related to flame propigation I assume. I don't know if the PCM has been flashed or the starter upgraded, gonna check that out now. When dlr replaced plugs they indicated some "special" adapter inside the engine or somthing was needed and charged outragous 70.00/plug, are they just full of s**t?

Hello
Just to update, early 2004 (before June 1) 6sp rx8 40K miles has all recalls (including PCM flash 4206F ) but has old starter (N3H1). Mazda roadside gives me the green light for covered tow. Since it is Sunday can't check w/ corporate, but will call them tomorrow (Mon). Will update list w/ result.

Hello
Just to update, early 2004 (before June 1) 6sp rx8 40K miles has all recalls (including PCM flash 4206F ) but has old starter (N3H1). Mazda roadside gives me the green light for covered tow. Since it is Sunday can't check w/ corporate, but will call them tomorrow (Mon). Will update list w/ result.

Prior to 6/1/2004 the RX-8 did not come with the upgraded 640 CCA battery, which was considered a contributing factor to flooding (see the Engine cranks - no start service bulletin). If you still have the original battery you need to get it replaced ASAP for both age and generally improved starting reasons.

Also, definitely get the upgraded starter if you can have it done under warranty.

Why does anyone still have the old starter? Everyone needs to upgrade, whether or not they are in warranty.

Seal.

Why does anyone still have the old starter? Everyone needs to upgrade, whether or not they are in warranty.

Seal.

Thanks for that bit. I hadn't yet become aware that the starter was also an issue. I'm starting to think it would be nice to have a "replace these parts because the factory stuff is crap" thread.


Thanks zenrx8! OK to answer your questions. The leading coils were replaced by dlr when plugs were replaced, but the other 2 I dont know (bought the car used about a yr ago). Yes the battery is original panasonic but bat shop (who I'm sure would like to sell me a new one) sez there is nothing wrong with it. I noticed that the pana battery is quite tall, this is a good bat design since allows plate corrosion to fall to bottom without causing shorts between plates (shorter hight batteries fail sooner for this reason). But, when you say Optima yellow top is that the brand name? (I see Mazda recommends Interstate but that is nothing special IMHO). RE: Plugs. You mention NGK, agreed that is great brand. Any special size/ type? Mazda TSB shows pic of specific plug that is "hotter" (I assume hotter heat range) and also has notches cut into the metal housing, prob somthing related to flame propigation I assume. I don't know if the PCM has been flashed or the starter upgraded, gonna check that out now. When dlr replaced plugs they indicated some "special" adapter inside the engine or somthing was needed and charged outragous 70.00/plug, are they just full of s**t?

Wow, 70 bucks a plug, that's almost a 300% markup. NGK plugs are $25 apiece from Pettit racing. Your dealer is full of something. Check out the pics at www.pettitracing.com in the "ignition" section. As far as batteries, "Optima" is a brand name, the Yellow Top Model is high output/deep power model. Measure your box, make sure it'll fit; if it does, it will likely be the last battery you need if you keep a charge on it.

70 bucks for a spark plug. Sounds like the last time my GF had her Corolla serviced and was charged $55 for a cheap pressed copper replacement battery terminal... because the original was "corroded". I went back with a $2 battery brush and a $4 solid copper terminal and told them to stop ripping her off. I think maybe we go to the same dealer.

The only parts I've had replaced on my '05 are:

1. One rear tailight that had condensation.
2. The runner clip on the center console.

I already had the new starter and plugs in my March '05 build.

So, aside from the above, the factory parts are pretty darn good!

Huey, no problems with a rattling airbag bracket?

Thanks for that bit. I hadn't yet become aware that the starter was also an issue. I'm starting to think it would be nice to have a "replace these parts because the factory stuff is crap" thread.

Actually it is Mazda saying the original build parts need to be replaced. The "Engine cranks no start" service bulletin references four changes to improve avoiding/recovering from engine flooding:

- Updated PCM firmware (For cars built before 3/04)
- Larger battery (for cars built before 6/04)
- More powerful starter (for cars built before 12/04)
- Redesigned leading plugs (for cars built before 4/05)

If you have done all the Mazda recalls then the PCM firmware and plugs have already been done. The battery and starter replacement is done if you have had a starting problem (of any kind) or if you specifically asked for it.

You can print a copy of the bulletin from http://www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/docs/pdf/01-048-06-1691.pdf .

Note: Mazda still recommends against cutting the engine off cold, even with all the updates. Best bet to avoid flooding is to make sure the engine has warmed up before turning it off.

You "guys" are the BOMB! Thank you for your help thus far. Todays events. Local battery shop tested batt all weekend and found was not not holding charge. (ah ha!) Offered me "Willis" 630CCA battery for 59.99 or Optima red top for 159.99 (800CCA). Said the Yellow top was not suitable for a car but OK for a boat due to deep cycle design? I didn't know how to reply but I think they'll sell me what I ask for (if I can come up w/ a good reason why). ALSO called Mazda corporate. They informed me that "no start due to flooding is no longer paid for by Mazda, considered operator error". Quite a shocker. I also talked to the dealer (North Penn Mazda) and they gave me the opposite answer, indicating they typically cover spark plug / coil replacement. I asked about the starter, DLR admitted it is an upgrade but tried to tell me not necissary. My car went into service August 03, but shouldn't I still be in the extended warranty w/ 40K miles? Oh yeah dlr offered me replacement 630CCA bat for 100.00. Such a deal. At this point I'm considering just buying the optima battery and a set of plugs from pettit racing, clearing the EPROM and then trying the "hold the gas pedal to the floor" process and avoiding the dealer entirely. Anyone know if the upgraded starter is available aftermarket?

The Red Top is fine, and new plugs sure can't hurt. I'd try that trick of pulling both leading and trailing plugs and using compressed air to dry the combustion chamber; just be sure to get the plugs back into the right places, ie don't swap the leading and trailing plugs - bad juju for the rotors. New battery, new plugs, dry chamber, should fire right up. Keep us posted.

msrecant, thanks for the TSB.

Buy flood insurance...haha

Buy flood insurance...haha

:squint:

i have read first 2 pages of this thread and i still have a question.

im new to rx-8, lets say if one day my 8 didnt start in the morning. what should i do? crank it again? or like other thread said, step on the gas and crank it for 7 to 8 secs?

tia

:squint:

I was forced to say it!!

is there anything you can do to fix the flooding besides taking to the shop and spending $158??

is there anything you can do to the car after it has flooded besides taking it to the shop and spending $158

Drain it...har har. Jesus I'm being evil...

is there anything you can do to the car after it has flooded besides taking it to the shop and spending $158

Sure.

Some shops charge upwards of $300, so there's an option:lol:

Sorry, man, BlackRX82006 is rubbing off on me. Anyway, as near as I can tell, the best options to "deflood" the beast have been covered here.

There are two elements to the flooding problem: first, excess fuel in the combustion chamber hosing down the plugs, and second, possibly washing down of the cylinder with gas causing loss of compression (no oil seal). I read the TSB that was posted about this problem and one of the options for stubborn cars is pulling oil into the rotors through vaccuum fittings to restore rotor seal and therefore compression. I don't know if you've ever hosed down the cylinders of a piston motor with gas and washed the oil off the rings, but you can crank the car all day and it will not start - sounds kind of funny too. Pour a little oil in each plug hole, and voila, the motor starts - and smokes like a bitch for a few minutes.

All this leads me to believe there may be two stages to a flooded motor: condition 1 is when the plugs are wet but the rotor seal is still good and the motor has compression. This condition probably responds well to the methods that restrict gas flow during the starting cycle: holding the gas pedal to the floor, pulling the fuel pump fuse, pulling the plugs and blowing the chamber dry. Then, there's what I believe to be Condition Two, which is condition one plus the loss of compression as a result of the rotor seal being compromised by excess gas washing away the oil in the chamber. This probably happens when the car is cranked and cranked and cranked without removing the excess fuel; this is probably what happened on ckrivins car. Plus, it's all made worse by weak batteries/weak starters/weak coils.

So: my best guess is keep a hot battery in your car, make sure the starter is up to date, make sure you've got some good NGK plugs, and that your coils don't look like they've been baked. And if you flood it, don't sit there and crank the hell out of it hoping it'll start. If holding the pedal to the floor doesn't start the beast in two or three tries, just stop, you're gonna need to pull the plugs.

If this happens to me again and I can't get it to kick over, I may just pull the plugs and try to add a cc or two of oil through the plug holes after I blow the chamber dry.

i have read first 2 pages of this thread and i still have a question.

im new to rx-8, lets say if one day my 8 didnt start in the morning. what should i do? crank it again? or like other thread said, step on the gas and crank it for 7 to 8 secs?

tia

The official Mazda de-choke procedure is as follows:

ROTARY ENGINE STARTING TIPS

Repeated 1 to 2 second cranking duration may cause excessive flooding and further aggravate an already present no-start condition. Mazda recommends cranking the engine for the maximum duration of 8 seconds when trying to start the vehicle during a no-start condition.


DE-CHOKING PROCEDURE WHEN ENGINE CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START

If the engine does not start, try the following procedure to start the engine using the de-choke mode. Failure to do so may aggravate the no start condition.

Cranking Tips
- Attempt to start the engine up to 3 times.
- Allow engine to crank a maximum of 8 seconds when attempting to start.
- Allow minimum of 3 seconds between cranking sessions. If the starter motor is not allowed to cool between cranking sessions, the starter may spin too slow to start the engine.

1. Depress and hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and crank the engine for 7-8 seconds. (This will clean out any unburned fuel from the combustion chamber)

2. Release the ignition key to stop cranking and wait 3 seconds.

3. Release the accelerator pedal and start the engine. If the engine starts while performing Step 1, the engine will rev up. Immediately release the ignition key to stop cranking and remove your foot from the accelerator pedal.

• Do not keep holding the ignition switch in the START position over 10 seconds if the engine does not start. This may result in a weakened or dead battery.
• Avoid racing the engine or sudden take off right after starting the engine.
• If the engine still fails to start following the De-choking procedure, have your vehicle inspected by your Mazda Dealer.

Ok, latest. Bought yellow top optima battery. 860 cold cranking amps! Now if THAT doesn't help. But DLR agreed to replace starter, plugs under warranty and tow for free! I'm all over that (hopefully they don't do more damage than the price of the starter would have been). But battery dealer sold me wrong battery :banghead: (+ / - terminals are on the wrong side) cant anything be simple?

Well guys, after much reading and investigating, it seems that everyone takes their cars to the dealer when they are flooded. I tried the method listed in the owners manual of holding the accelerator to the floor and winding it over, no go. Left the car for a couiple days, still no starting from carking it over with the key. I gave up, called the Mazda helpline, they sent out a Jump Start expert and he said, nuh, just call them back and get a transporter to collect the car and take it to the local Mazda dealer, it'll never start in a million years he says.

At this stage I was annoyed that everyone seems to be resolved to the fact that the car will never go without, removing plugs etc. I hoped my car would be the same as all the other rotaries I have owned in the past or still own, R100, RX2, RX7 convertible etc. So I got a tow rope and towed it less than a hundred yards down the road, the car fired easily and is running mint as, not missing a beat.

I state that this has worked well for me, so if you have a manual transmission model, why not give this a go, you got nothing to lose. If you have an auto, then this method is not for you I'm afraid.

Nope. But then, I've only got 14K miles on it.

Huey, no problems with a rattling airbag bracket?

Well guys, after much reading and investigating, it seems that everyone takes their cars to the dealer when they are flooded. I tried the method listed in the owners manual of holding the accelerator to the floor and winding it over, no go. Left the car for a couiple days, still no starting from carking it over with the key. I gave up, called the Mazda helpline, they sent out a Jump Start expert and he said, nuh, just call them back and get a transporter to collect the car and take it to the local Mazda dealer, it'll never start in a million years he says.

At this stage I was annoyed that everyone seems to be resolved to the fact that the car will never go without, removing plugs etc. I hoped my car would be the same as all the other rotaries I have owned in the past or still own, R100, RX2, RX7 convertible etc. So I got a tow rope and towed it less than a hundred yards down the road, the car fired easily and is running mint as, not missing a beat.

I state that this has worked well for me, so if you have a manual transmission model, why not give this a go, you got nothing to lose. If you have an auto, then this method is not for you I'm afraid.

There we go. Another tool in the arsenal. Where did you hook the tow chain to your car?

Whell the yellow top optima battery is aparently only made one way... with the terminals on the wrong sides. But the cables can be extended, just need to figure out how! 8 got flatbedded to north penn mazda last night, looking forward to drive her home w/new starter and all...

Whell the yellow top optima battery is aparently only made one way... with the terminals on the wrong sides. But the cables can be extended, just need to figure out how! 8 got flatbedded to north penn mazda last night, looking forward to drive her home w/new starter and all...

This link (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=33340) points to a DYI thread about modifying the battery cables. Also, this link (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=812990&postcount=56) points to a specific post in that thread where someone found a Yellow Top with the terminals in the correct position.

F.W.I.W.

Yes it has happened to me a few times but it only seems to happen when the battery has run flat abit. I found that if the motor is flooded you must swing the motor over a few times without letting the injecters pump feul into the motor .

There we go. Another tool in the arsenal. Where did you hook the tow chain to your car?

In the owner's manual it says to pop open the top right hand side of the grill and you can wind the towing eye loacted in the factory tool kit in there. Very cool and nicely hidden, I was looking for a towing eye under the front of the car for ages, ha ha ha.

I have stored mine since October 13th 07, and as of today it wont start.

I assume this calls for the usual procedures reguarding flooding? It was about 40F today(8c) and I just replaced the plugs and coils about 7000km ago.....

I have stored mine since October 13th 07, and as of today it wont start.

I assume this calls for the usual procedures reguarding flooding? It was about 40F today(8c) and I just replaced the plugs and coils about 7000km ago.....

Sounds like it. Check and charge the battery first, then either follow msrecant's checklist on post #1590 on this thread, or if it's a manual, you might try the tow start procedure. Let us know how you do.

If it was me, I'd be aggressive about it: get those plugs out, dry the chambers, charge the battery/get a new battery/get a jump before I tried to restart it. The more you fail to restart, the harder it is to get it going again.

well i tried to dry the chambers by remocing the plugs and rolling it for a few second and leaving to dry with plugs and i charged the battery and still no luck
I'm about to add oil in through the intake port nipples and try again after a short break while i wait for the battery to charge back up again

well i tried to dry the chambers by remocing the plugs and rolling it for a few second and leaving to dry with plugs and i charged the battery and still no luck
I'm about to add oil in through the intake port nipples and try again after a short break while i wait for the battery to charge back up again

I"d put a set of jumpers on it when I cranked it. How do the plugs look?

I just got my 8 back from the Dealer - it has been towed at least 3 times in the past year, the closest mazda dealer to me is 45 minutes away! My car is not flooding because I start it and then turn it off in a few minutes - I drive it everyday and this last time I drove home from work (20 miles) put it in the garage and tried to start the next morning...nothing!!I have never started the car without letting it run for at least five minutes before shutting it off. The dlr told me that his service department has even flooded the cars and they know what they are doing - I guess he thinks I don't know what I'm doing. I have had my car 2 years and the flooding wasn't a problem the first year. They have changed the spark plugs, updated the computer,put a new seal on my gas cap (their excuse for the car not starting last time) and non of that has helped. My car stays in the garage in Florida so cold weather is not the issue. I have an automatic starter on my car and I have a feeling this may be part of my problem. I am not going to use the auto start feature again and see if I have the flooding problem again. Does anyone else have a autostarter on their car? 2005 RX8, 33k miles so far all of the tow trips and work done on my car has been covered under the warranty. My dlr did say if you complain to Mazda they might extend the warranty to 60k miles.

I"d put a set of jumpers on it when I cranked it. How do the plugs look?

With a jumper car hooked up, I got it going using the De-choke procedure in this exact order, and I even stalled it 2 times before finally getting it to stay going on the 3rd attempt, took like 15 minutes to do

With gas pedal floored(de-choke) crank starter for 8 seconds with a 20 second pause in between cranks, do it 7 times and it WILL start on the 8th try

heh notice how i got it to start on the 8th try? ;)

:bowdown:all hail the de-choke procedure:bowdown:, I tried all the other de-flood methods with no success whatsoever

ok so i changed my oil the other day. started it and let it run of like 5 sec so i could check the oil level. no it wont turn over and i called the dealer and they said it was flooded and now they are telling me that i have to do coils plugs and wires does this sound right or are they bull shiting me? can any one please help?

ok so i changed my oil the other day. started it and let it run of like 5 sec so i could check the oil level. no it wont turn over and i called the dealer and they said it was flooded and now they are telling me that i have to do coils plugs and wires does this sound right or are they bull shiting me? can any one please help?

so the starter wont run?
check battery strength and connections

...good thing it's not an RX10 or RX12, right, Andrew? Glad you got it running again, here's to hoping you don't have to go through that again.:beer05: :beer05:

Hey just hook up up a shop-vac to your spark plug holes and suck all the gas out. LMAO. VRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRBOOOOOOOOOM

Had mine towed to the dealer monday when it wouldn't start. Flooded...had all plugs replaced, etc...

I was backing out of the garage and it just cut out...kinda scary. I think I flooded it when attempting to crank after it died.

This has happened to mine SEVERAL times and it is happening again at this very moment! Grrrrrrrrrr!!!! Not happy about this at all. :banghead:

I always rev the engine to at least 4K, then shut it off. This will blow out any extra gas from the 'cylinders'. Before I started revving before shutting down, I had a couple of 'floodings' after >40mile highway drives. I haven't had any starting issues since I started the rev/cut off practice. It won't solve the stalling when backing out of the garage issue, but it may help some others.

:banghead: I know this is an old thread but:

Went to Orlando for 10 days when I came back my 8 wouldn't start so I tried the flood procedure for 4-5 times then tried starting while pumping the pedal lightly every 2-3 seconds...It took 3 times trying this but it started.

Thanks to all.

Kg

I have flooded my RX8 twice -- both times after moving it a short distance off the drive to wash it.

Mods subsequently carried out and no flooding for past 18 months

Yup, I did a noob move this past December. I knew I had done it as soon as I did it. I just frooze in my seat for a solid 5 seconds and then cursed myself loudly. Not fun...

Yup, I did a noob move this past December. I knew I had done it as soon as I did it. I just frooze in my seat for a solid 5 seconds and then cursed myself loudly. Not fun...


By the looks of the pic on your sig line, when you say froze in your seat, your really meant it:lol:

How'd ya "unfreeze" it?

deflooded my 8, mine was flooded when I went back to the states and i didnt start it for 2 months, Got in decided to start it flooded! went to pull the spark plugs and the ceramic was shattered on one so I bought a new set, put them in today and started deflooding procedure it worked! I wouldnt say floor it but about 80 percent throttle then it starting choking out, then it started with a blaze of lots lots of white smoke from all the fuel, I still have a headache from all this! I recommed from now on reving to 4k then shutting off so all the exhaust leaving the chamber

I always rev the engine to at least 4K, then shut it off. This will blow out any extra gas from the 'cylinders'. Before I started revving before shutting down, I had a couple of 'floodings' after >40mile highway drives. I haven't had any starting issues since I started the rev/cut off practice. It won't solve the stalling when backing out of the garage issue, but it may help some others.

deflooded my 8, mine was flooded when I went back to the states and i didnt start it for 2 months, Got in decided to start it flooded! went to pull the spark plugs and the ceramic was shattered on one so I bought a new set, put them in today and started deflooding procedure it worked! I wouldnt say floor it but about 80 percent throttle then it starting choking out, then it started with a blaze of lots lots of white smoke from all the fuel, I still have a headache from all this! I recommed from now on reving to 4k then shutting off so all the exhaust leaving the chamber

yup....just like those guys...I rev it up to 3-4K and shut it off.

Never had a flood yet...shut it down cold a few time with that procedure...seems to work so far.

But I would be pretty pissed if I couldn't start her up.

Thank you, thank you, and thank you. My car hasn't been running for 2 days and I was reluctant to get it towed in since the dealer is too far away. I tried your "de-choking" method and it worked like you said it would!

Ok, it happened to me this morning. Yes, i violated the warm up time on purpose but didn't worry about it because i've been fine before when done by mistake. My luck ran out. I went straight to rx8club.com to refresh my memory on what to do. Here is what i did for whatever help it will be to someone else.

Pulled fuse and full pedal crank methods got me nowhere... hardly a sputter. Pulled plugs, cleaned plugs, blew air into chamber, few drops of oil in chamber didn't even produce a sputter. Now i'm thinking maybe its not getting fuel. Sounds like dumb logic on a flooded engine right? Well maybe not so dumb because it started 2nd crank. I started with full pedal, then every half second or so let it out to half pedal and back to full. First 8 second crank it started running but died. Second crank took about 5 seconds to fire up. I had to keep on the gas to keep it running but after 10 seconds she was purring along. To my amazement there was no smoke or smell of excessive fuel. I took her for a drive and its as strong as ever. I know this makes no sense but it worked for me.

I bought the 04 in December with 32k miles on it. I have 34k now. The plugs were bad and i ordered a new set. My coils looked fine so i'll let them go for now.

Ok, it happened to me this morning. Yes, i violated the warm up time on purpose but didn't worry about it because i've been fine before when done by mistake. My luck ran out. I went straight to rx8club.com to refresh my memory on what to do. Here is what i did for whatever help it will be to someone else.

Pulled fuse and full pedal crank methods got me nowhere... hardly a sputter. Pulled plugs, cleaned plugs, blew air into chamber, few drops of oil in chamber didn't even produce a sputter. Now i'm thinking maybe its not getting fuel. Sounds like dumb logic on a flooded engine right? Well maybe not so dumb because it started 2nd crank. I started with full pedal, then every half second or so let it out to half pedal and back to full. First 8 second crank it started running but died. Second crank took about 5 seconds to fire up. I had to keep on the gas to keep it running but after 10 seconds she was purring along. To my amazement there was no smoke or smell of excessive fuel. I took her for a drive and its as strong as ever. I know this makes no sense but it worked for me.

I bought the 04 in December with 32k miles on it. I have 34k now. The plugs were bad and i ordered a new set. My coils looked fine so i'll let them go for now.

Congrats on bringing her back to life. FWIW, make sure you get the NGK plugs, and if I might suggest it, if these are your original coils, I'd replace them with new ones and new plug wires either now or in the near future. I guarantee your coils are not performing up to spec after 4 years and 34K miles. Anyway, congrats again.

I am interested in buying a 2007 rx-8 with 4300 miles ($23K, is that a good price?). Now i am really concerned after reading these post about engine flooding ( i am also worried about how many mechanics can fix a rotary if i ever broke down in the middle of nowheres) but does installing a remote start on an AT rx-8 solve this problem? I really love the car otherwise, but i am worried about the reliabilty and having to take it in and out of the shop all the time. If anyone can help answer these questions and make me feel better (or worse) that would be great.

** Is the flooding issue covered by the warranty or is this an out of pocket expense? Also if the engine ever needed to be replaced during the warranty period, is that covered? Sorry for all the questions, this would be my first car purchase. Thanks.

I am interested in buying a 2007 rx-8 with 4300 miles ($23K, is that a good price?). Now i am really concerned after reading these post about engine flooding ( i am also worried about how many mechanics can fix a rotary if i ever broke down in the middle of nowheres) but does installing a remote start on an AT rx-8 solve this problem? I really love the car otherwise, but i am worried about the reliabilty and having to take it in and out of the shop all the time. If anyone can help answer these questions and make me feel better (or worse) that would be great.

** Is the flooding issue covered by the warranty or is this an out of pocket expense? Also if the engine ever needed to be replaced during the warranty period, is that covered? Sorry for all the questions, this would be my first car purchase. Thanks.

I am interested in buying a 2007 rx-8 with 4300 miles ($23K, is that a good price?). Now i am really concerned after reading these post about engine flooding ( i am also worried about how many mechanics can fix a rotary if i ever broke down in the middle of nowheres) but does installing a remote start on an AT rx-8 solve this problem? I really love the car otherwise, but i am worried about the reliabilty and having to take it in and out of the shop all the time. If anyone can help answer these questions and make me feel better (or worse) that would be great.

** Is the flooding issue covered by the warranty or is this an out of pocket expense? Also if the engine ever needed to be replaced during the warranty period, is that covered? Sorry for all the questions, this would be my first car purchase. Thanks.

$23K is reasonable depending on the trim level. It's marginal for an an AT Sport and a great deal for an MT GT.

A remote start doesn't necessarily help as the problem is not when you start the car but when you turn it off. As long as you never turn the engine off cold (start, move car, turn off) you shouldn't have to worry about flooding.

I have an early 2004 (Built 5/2003) and have only had it in the shop for routine maintenance. While in for normal maintainence I had any outstanding recalls or service bulletins attended to so I have not had frequent trips to the dealer.

Most dealerships will cover a first flood under warranty. Engine replacement is also covered under the drivetrain warranty. If you are worried, use the money you save to buy a 100K drivetrain warranty

My fellow owners.
I let my mother pull my 8 into the garage and joined the FloodClub(I'm only living with parents cause I recently came back from the UK after 2 years, honestly !).
That, combined with a weak old battery killed my 8.
I got a brand new Willards Bat(donno if u get those in US)
DeFlooding by Cranking failed.

This sorted me out and took 5 minutes:
Hooked the 8 up to pops' truck using the 'tie down hook'(thanks Plaid shirt guy - guess who's only owned his 8 for 2 weeks :/)

1. Turn Key to On
2. Pop yer 8 into 2nd
3. Tow her slowly.
4. See puffs of white smoke in rearview as your 8 gently purrs into ignition(dont ram into the dude towing you while performing this step)
For the 1st couple of seconds she will sound nasty like she has a throat full of.. gas.:squint:

I was amazed how gracious and easily it came to life. There is a hell of an essay in an earlier post explaining the same thing(pulling the 8)

I thought I read in the owner's manual that the 8 should not be pull started. :dunno:

AlexS the little "towing ring" you speak of is a tie down hook, it is not meant for pulling the 8. ;)


rotaryrx07 the majority of flooding was in the early models without the updated starter or plugs. ;)

Even then I never flooded it myself, a shop did when I was having some work performed. They moved it a little ways and then just turned the key off.

If they would have revved it to 3k for 10 seconds and shut the key off it would not have flooded. :(

It is a warranty item.

So the main issues for taking care of an RX8 would be the following?

1. Make sure not to flood the engine (no cold shutoffs)
2. Always check/add oil after 2-3 fill ups.

Am I missing any other issues that this car demands aside from most

If they would have revved it to 3k for 10 seconds and shut the key off it would not have flooded. :(


I've flooded mine that way. I thought that would be a safe way to move it - nope. I have never shut it off cold since. FWIW

So the main issues for taking care of an RX8 would be the following?

1. Make sure not to flood the engine (no cold shutoffs)
2. Always check/add oil after 2-3 fill ups.

Am I missing any other issues that this car demands aside from most

One more issue that is not RX-8 specific. The 8 comes with summer tires. Don't even think about driving in snow/ice with stock tires.

I've flooded mine that way. I thought that would be a safe way to move it - nope. I have never shut it off cold since. FWIW

Did you turn the key off before letting off the gas pedal?

It has always worked for me. :dunno:

One more issue that is not RX-8 specific. The 8 comes with summer tires. Don't even think about driving in snow/ice with stock tires.


^^
+1

Did you turn the key off before letting off the gas pedal?

It has always worked for me. :dunno:

Nope, I brought it up to 3000, release the pedal so it was not delivering any more fuel and shut the key off as the RPMs dropped. Maybe the other way works better. My way had worked for me in the past so be careful.

If you turn the key off it stops delivering gas and the rpms are higher so there are more revolutions to clear the oil and gas out of the engine.

I have never flooded the car; I've had it since October of '04; the shop did a couple of years ago and sadly the temp inside the building was around 70 degrees Farenheit. :dunno:

So even though a person may think it is warm enough outside, still be careful.

Thanks for the word of caution MX6 to RX8.

This is some NB stuff.:uhh:
Could we have some brief points added to a sticky thread or even FAQ for new owners ? :)

If you turn the key off it stops delivering gas and the rpms are higher so there are more revolutions to clear the oil and gas out of the engine.



This actually makes sense; the PCM is programmed to lean out to something ridiculous like 19:1 on full trailing throttle for emissions reduction. Just wonder if it helps if the key is off and the plugs aren't firing.

Exactly. Turn the key off with the rev's still up there to clear out any unburned, and thereby flood potential, fuel. Never a flood myself.

If you turn the key off it stops delivering gas and the rpms are higher so there are more revolutions to clear the oil and gas out of the engine.

I have never flooded the car; I've had it since October of '04; the shop did a couple of years ago and sadly the temp inside the building was around 70 degrees Farenheit. :dunno:

So even though a person may think it is warm enough outside, still be careful.

Thanks for the word of caution MX6 to RX8.

So the main issues for taking care of an RX8 would be the following?

1. Make sure not to flood the engine (no cold shutoffs)
2. Always check/add oil after 2-3 fill ups.

Am I missing any other issues that this car demands aside from most

AT's require atleast 1 redline every other day, ATLEAST

I’m not an owner, but a mechanic who works on my buddy’s ’04 RX-8. Last week, after an oil change, I moved the car 20 feet to mow the grass. When he came to get the car it wouldn’t start and that’s when he told me about the ‘short trip flooding problem’. He said it had happened twice before, resulting in a tow to the dealer and lots of $ to get running. Too bad he hadn’t told me this BEFORE I worked on the car. He was resigned to having it towed again.

I pondered the problem and did this. After removing the engine cover, I opened the air cleaner cover and pried it open about 2 inches (tough to do because of the intake bellows behind it). I stuck a hair dryer in the air cleaner, aimed at the intake manifold duct. I let the hair dryer run on HI for about 15 minutes, until I could feel the intake tube get warm (ambient temp was about 60°). I put the gas pedal to the floor for about 3 minutes to let the warm air get to the rotor chambers. As I began to crank the motor with throttle wide open, I had an assistant squirt starting fluid into the intake duct for 3 seconds, then I let the throttle close completely while still cranking. The motor coughed, stumbled but eventually started, while spewing clouds of smoke. After warm up, it ran fine.

Hope this tip might help some of you next time.

I’m not an owner, but a mechanic who works on my buddy’s ’04 RX-8. Last week, after an oil change, I moved the car 20 feet to mow the grass. When he came to get the car it wouldn’t start and that’s when he told me about the ‘short trip flooding problem’. He said it had happened twice before, resulting in a tow to the dealer and lots of $ to get running. Too bad he hadn’t told me this BEFORE I worked on the car. He was resigned to having it towed again.

I pondered the problem and did this. After removing the engine cover, I opened the air cleaner cover and pried it open about 2 inches (tough to do because of the intake bellows behind it). I stuck a hair dryer in the air cleaner, aimed at the intake manifold duct. I let the hair dryer run on HI for about 15 minutes, until I could feel the intake tube get warm (ambient temp was about 60°). I put the gas pedal to the floor for about 3 minutes to let the warm air get to the rotor chambers. As I began to crank the motor with throttle wide open, I had an assistant squirt starting fluid into the intake duct for 3 seconds, then I let the throttle close completely while still cranking. The motor coughed, stumbled but eventually started, while spewing clouds of smoke. After warm up, it ran fine.

Hope this tip might help some of you next time.


thanks, but the bolded section is what really cured ur problem.

so you can start up and go, as long as you don't turn it off when it's still cold? The dealer told me it should be warmed up.

That's the deal. Let it warm up until the temp needle gets to the middle of the range before shutting it off. You shouldn't drive it hard until it warms up either but that's more common sense with any car, especially a rotary.

(The other RX-8 in Maine, Black - Sebago lake area)

so you can start up and go, as long as you don't turn it off when it's still cold? The dealer told me it should be warmed up.

The dealer is wrong. You can drive as soon as the engine stabilizes after startup. Just don't shut it off until it has fully warmed. Alternately, you can follow the short-trip procedure in your manual to shut of the engine before complete warmup.

mine flooded a few months ago my brother moved it into the garage and shut it off next day i tried to start it and i didnt i knew right away it was flooded the rx7's had the same problem...when ur engine is flooded it sounds like ur not getting ne compression so i tried push starting it which i dont recomend to neone who doesnt know how to do it but it didnt work neways so i had it towed to my machanic i dont go to mazda they rip u off took out the spark plug and it was so wet with gas so i definitly know it flooded blew it out change the plugs and wire y not and havent had the problem since........but with the rotary engine u HAVE to warm it up or u WILL flood the engine sooner ot later

I purchased a 2004 RX8 GT, 6 Speed in April, and have had not issues until recently.
1/ Has anyone had issues with the car not starting? The car was running perfectly then it sat for a couple of days, and now it will not start? Any suggestions to try to get it running?

2/ Also, wondering if anyone else has the GPS navigation package on their RX8, and wondering if the navigation CD? If you have to get a new one for each country?

thanks

I thought I had this problem but realised it was just my sparkplugs that needed changing.

I have been told that before shutting off your engine you should rev to 3k for 3-5 secs and then switch off depressing the accelerator to take out the fuel from the engine.

Obviously no gas when you start and no revving above 3k while the engine is cold. If I'm honest I always forget to do the above which is probably why I have to give a lot of ignition to start my 8 - anyone got any fixes for this?

I have an '04 and encountered 'flooding' even though the car traveled over 40 miles, this happened twice. I began revving up to 3~5k before shutting off and have never had the problem since.

Mine never flooded, that is until I parked it on the beach, right up to the edge of the water at low tide.

JK, I've never flooded mine. I just drive it like any other car (well, okay, maybe a bit harder, but not REAL hard), except that I always warm it up before I shut it off. I guess I've just been lucky?

First time flooder lol i am at work without my car but it's all good I live real close to my work. My 8 is an '06 I am going to try the de flood procedure tonight but I have a real stupid question when I depress the foot pedal and crank it do i need to be on the clutch?

The engine won't crank without the clutch being depressed. So, the answer is yes.:)

BTW, you may have to go through the procedure several times before the engine will start. Don't crank for too long or you may fry the starter motor. Just follow the Mazda directions and you'll be OK.

Thanks Go48 for the information. I can always count on the friendly posters at RX8 club :)

Sure. Watch out for those UNfriendly members.:)

I thought I had this problem but realised it was just my sparkplugs that needed changing.

I have been told that before shutting off your engine you should rev to 3k for 3-5 secs and then switch off depressing the accelerator to take out the fuel from the engine.

Obviously no gas when you start and no revving above 3k while the engine is cold. If I'm honest I always forget to do the above which is probably why I have to give a lot of ignition to start my 8 - anyone got any fixes for this?

Bad plugs are a cause of the problem, as are old coils that have become weak, and a weak battery. Keep 'em all fresh and this problem will be minimized.

I'm still new to the 8, and i was speaking to a tech at mazda and he said that the engine will Flood itself once in awhile. what does that mean? and he also said not to start the car right away, that i should wait till the beeping noise is gone then start.
i had a little bite of a hard time today starting the car up. i had to keep the key turned a few extra sec's before it started. is this normal with this car?

I'm still new to the 8, and i was speaking to a tech at mazda and he said that the engine will Flood itself once in awhile. what does that mean? and he also said not to start the car right away, that i should wait till the beeping noise is gone then start.
i had a little bite of a hard time today starting the car up. i had to keep the key turned a few extra sec's before it started. is this normal with this car?

Hey, man. Welcome to the world of the RX8!

Flooding is a problem that may occur if the car is started cold and then turned off before it is allowed to come up to operating temperature, such as when you need to move the car in your driveway to get another car out. This accounts fo 99% of the flooding problems; weak batteries, weak coils, and bad starters are probably responsible for the remainder, as well as contributing somewhat to other situations.

A few rules: if you start the car, let the temp gauge come up to the middle before turning the car off. Some owners recommend holding the engine at 3000rpm and turning off the key without letting off the gas pedal as a shutdown procedure - they may have something there.

If your car ever fails to star on the first two tries, push the accelerator all the way to floor and then crank the motor; this cuts the fuel to the injectors and gives the motor a chance to clear the excess fuel. If it doesn't start with two tries using this procedure, try it two more time with a jumper cable on you battery, and if that fail, just stop and call your dealer. The more you grind away at it, the more you stand to damage the starter and motor.

Just don't turn off a cold engine, and read through this thread for tips, pointers, and the Mazda official "De-Flooding" Procedure. Good luck!

hi to all,as i know and as i do when my 8 floode was to remove the (safety chip) of fuel pump from the (safebox)and with out it try to start the engine for about 3-4 times then you plug in again the fuel pump chip and start up the engine and accelerate until 4 to 5 rpm...it is normal that would eject white smoke from the exhaust system.in my 8 the problem solved that way

hi to all,as i know and as i do when my 8 floode was to remove the (safety chip) of fuel pump from the (safebox)and with out it try to start the engine for about 3-4 times then you plug in again the fuel pump chip and start up the engine and accelerate until 4 to 5 rpm...it is normal that would eject white smoke from the exhaust system.in my 8 the problem solved that way


TRANSLATION:

Pull the fuel pump fuse from the fusebox under the hood, crank the motor 4 or 5 times, then replace the fuse and start the motor; it will smoke for 20 or 30 seconds when it starts.

I actually used this method with success the first time I flooded my first RX8.

Thanks, Profiler :)

i know that this topic has been talked over and over again, and i'm sorry for boring the people that know everything with flooding... But i had a situation today, i want out for a drive in the country today and when i was going to go back home, i put the car in reverse and it just died on me the battire light in the dash was flashing. i started it with the gas paddle on the floor and turning the key. why would it die if it was already warm? do i need a new battire?

sorry but i was having a problem to remember the word FUSE.thnx for the translation.:aroused:

renesis hey and welcome to the club,it depents from the battire and the use that you made to your 8 with this battire,how long do you got it?maybe is battire but dont forget to check in the battire pols for any oxide marks if there is then remove the pols adaptors and clean them up,then plug them again.maybe you need a new battire it depents from the miles in your 8

I think the salesperson from mazda said that the battire was new, but not sure on that. its a 04 with 63,xxxx. my car died again in that middle of traffic, i did everything to start it, and still nothing. oh its a AT. and the only thing that seems to work was putting it in (N) and crank it. and it kicked in. i got home and turned it off for a min or 2 and then started with no problem. i think it time to change that spark plugs? i dont think that they ever been changed. i got the car used.

My 04 RX8 231 has flooded once just after I had it. Short move whilst cold. AA callout tried usual removing fuse etc: but after exhausting his battery pack decided to tow to garage. However, he offered to try a tow start if I was willing. We did. 10 mph, clutch in , 1st gear, off accelerator, clutch out slowly, engined turned, coughed, caught then revved with accelerator. Lots of smoke but ran. Smoked cleared after 1 min idled smoothly. No problrms since. Now ALWAYS, if cold rev to 3000, hold steady and switch off ignition. No problems since.
His explanation:- flooded chamber, as choke on, dilutes oil, unable to make compression seal. Removing fuel etc by taking out spark plugs allows petrol to evaporate, thickens oul, allows compression and hence able to start. Towing vehicle allows cylinders to be vented as turnover speed higher than using starter motor. Seems plausable. All I Know it worked and that was 30,000 miles ago.

My baby flooded on me last evening; I had driven about 15 miles to a doc's appointment where the car was parked for an hour. From there I drove 2 miles to the gun shop, where the car sat for another hour. I got in, tried to start the car, and it was immediately evident the car was flooding (which I thought was very strange since the car was definitely hot when turned off). I released the key, and tried the Great and Holy Mazda Deflooding Incantation. No luck after three tries with the gas pedal to the floor. Shit. So, I got out, popped the hood, pulled the Holy Fuel Pump Fuse :bowdown: , and then cranked the motor with my foot off the gas pedal. The car immediately caught then stalled when the fuel in the system was used up. I replaced the fuse and cranked the car with my foot off the gas. The engine started immediately with no hesitation. Total elapsed time: 5 minutes.

I can't speak for the Holy Mazda Deflooding Procedure since it's never worked for me; remember, this idea came from the same people that gave us the freaking problem in the first place. This is, however, the second time that pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood and cranking the motor has worked for me. For what it's worth.

Zen's Deflooding Procedure:

1) If it doesn't start on the first try, STOP CRANKING.
2) Hold the gas pedal to the floor, try again for 5 seconds; if it doesn't start, STOP
3) Pop the hood, pull the fuel pump fuse (green 20A fuse in the large fuse block on the drivers side of the engine in front)
4) Keep your foot off the gas pedal. Crank 1 to 3 cycles of 3 to5 seconds each, with 10 to 15 seconds rest between cranking
5) Replace the fuse. Keep your foot OFF the gas pedal, and try to restart. If it doesn't pop on the first try, pull the fuse and repeat #4 and #5 until it does.
6) Weak batteries, old plugs, and old coils make this more prone to happen. NGK plugs, a hot (preferably Optima) battery, and new coils every 2 years (a guess on the last part).

You listening, Mazda?

so i flooded my engine. i know i should have known better but this is the kicker. i took it to a mazda dealership. $225 to deflood it. and i heard that i need to replace my spark plugs now. they said i need new spark plugs, new coils, and new wires. for the grand total of... $1675!! are they trying to fleece me? do i really need new coils? i called pep boys and they said labor alone would be $340. their labor plus parts would be $700. definitely cheaper than mazda dealership. i need some sage advice from someone not on commision.

Year and mileage? But yes, the dealership price seems to be over the top.

Shouldn't need to change any parts for a simple flood, unless they were marginal to start with.

so i flooded my engine. i know i should have known better but this is the kicker. i took it to a mazda dealership. $225 to deflood it. and i heard that i need to replace my spark plugs now. they said i need new spark plugs, new coils, and new wires. for the grand total of... $1675!! are they trying to fleece me? do i really need new coils? i called pep boys and they said labor alone would be $340. their labor plus parts would be $700. definitely cheaper than mazda dealership. i need some sage advice from someone not on commision.

so i flooded my engine. i know i should have known better but this is the kicker. i took it to a mazda dealership. $225 to deflood it. and i heard that i need to replace my spark plugs now. they said i need new spark plugs, new coils, and new wires. for the grand total of... $1675!! are they trying to fleece me? do i really need new coils? i called pep boys and they said labor alone would be $340. their labor plus parts would be $700. definitely cheaper than mazda dealership. i need some sage advice from someone not on commision.

hey man i would never take my car to mazda its the biggest rip off ever dont do it its just a simple flood dont worry bout it take it to a regular mechanic they'll be able to fix it for about $140 the most.....depends on how bad u flood it u might have to replace the plugs but thats it dont go to the dealer for the plugs either if u need to change them

Don't EVAR take ur car to Pep Boys for service. They hire bottom-of-the-barrel mechanics, because they don't pay enough for anyone worth a toot. I had to finally show th brakes guy how to adjust the e-brake cables on the rear brakes of my old MX-6. That was the third time back for a simple pad replacement and rotor turning. Get smart and DIY for the simple jobs.

so i flooded my engine. i know i should have known better but this is the kicker. i took it to a mazda dealership. $225 to deflood it. and i heard that i need to replace my spark plugs now. they said i need new spark plugs, new coils, and new wires. for the grand total of... $1675!! are they trying to fleece me? do i really need new coils? i called pep boys and they said labor alone would be $340. their labor plus parts would be $700. definitely cheaper than mazda dealership. i need some sage advice from someone not on commision.

Sounds like an awful lot to me. The Mazda service bulletin for flooding certainly does not go beyond plug repalcement. Seems the other parts are excessive.

Sounds like an awful lot to me. The Mazda service bulletin for flooding certainly does not go beyond plug repalcement. Seems the other parts are excessive.
flooded 8 months ago...towing via AAA w/ extra distance = $20...Mazda charged me $117 labor...no parts...no flooding since...but I don't take any more chances, either...

So, in addition to experiencing my first flood, I'm also new to this forum. I've had my 8 for 3 years - bought it new, leftover '05. I found a lot of good info here that helped my decide what to do - the thought of my 8 on a flatbed was just too much to bear. From what I see, the Mazda service bulletin sums it up quite well. Flooding is caused by either wet plugs or carbon buildup. With the wet plugs, you may also have compression loss due to lubrication washout, but that appears to be quite rare. The most common cause is what the RX7 community used to refer to as "carbon lock". Has to do with carbon buildup on the grooves that hold the apex seals. Seems to me, this is the real issue, not "flooding", as characterized by Mazda. My car has rarely experienced hard starting before this year, but the problem has gotten progressively worse until last week when it failed to start. It had been sitting for over a week, while I was on vacation and like so many others, I washed, waxed and detailed it before leaving so it would be ready to roll when I got home. I made the mistake of moving it out to the driveway and back into the garage without warming - I did do the 3k RPM thing, however. What I've noticed is that the longer it sits, the harder it starts. I'm convinced this is due to carbon build up, which harden over time, like when the car sits for a few days. When you turn it over, the seals retract ever so slightly, preventing adequate compression to start the vehicle at low RPM. I tried the Mazda method in their flooding service bulletin - found the link on this forum, thanks for that! Forgot who posted it now, but it was very helpful. Car still didn't start but it did pop a few times, after doing the oil thing. Pulling it up my sloped driveway, then coasting and popping the clutch is the trick. Now I have a check engine light and a Wednesday appointment with the local dealer. Still under warranty, but who knows what they will do. Probably just clear the codes. I'm guessing, based on what it took to get it started, my engine would have been "decarboned" had it gone to the dealer. Seems a fairly harsh procedure, but it makes sense. Once you get carbon buildup, the starting problem will likely be an issue until you get rid of it. My car doesn't see much highway travel, so I think that's the basic problem. I'm going to get it out on a good long highway trip and hope that will help get the carbon out. Anybody out there know if an injector claener or other fuel additive is any help?

so i flooded my engine. i know i should have known better but this is the kicker. i took it to a mazda dealership. $225 to deflood it. and i heard that i need to replace my spark plugs now. they said i need new spark plugs, new coils, and new wires. for the grand total of... $1675!! are they trying to fleece me? do i really need new coils? i called pep boys and they said labor alone would be $340. their labor plus parts would be $700. definitely cheaper than mazda dealership. i need some sage advice from someone not on commision.


Fleeced? I'd say fucked. Were you asked to report to the service bay with your pants down and asked to bend over the front fender?

NGK plugs, new leading and trailing, 25 buck each. New coils, 200 bucks. You should have a hot battery and ask the stealership to see if your car qualifies for the starter recall - in fact, have them pull all the recall records on your VIN.

Changing the plugs is not easy. It has to be done by pulling the drivers side wheel, preferably on a lift.

Yeah, you're gettting shafted. A word for the future: next time the car won't start like it normally does after two tries, STOP. Get out of the car, pop the hood, pull the fuil pump fuse (it's in the fuse box in fthe front of the engine bay on the driver's side). Keep your foot off the accellerator, crank the motor for about
3 seconds two or three times. Replace the fuse, keep your fut offf the gas, and the car should start. Whatever you do, don't, don't , don't, keep cranking away at it. If it doesn't start after two or three attempts, it's not going to.

So, in addition to experiencing my first flood, I'm also new to this forum. I've had my 8 for 3 years - bought it new, leftover '05. I found a lot of good info here that helped my decide what to do - the thought of my 8 on a flatbed was just too much to bear. From what I see, the Mazda service bulletin sums it up quite well. Flooding is caused by either wet plugs or carbon buildup. With the wet plugs, you may also have compression loss due to lubrication washout, but that appears to be quite rare. The most common cause is what the RX7 community used to refer to as "carbon lock". Has to do with carbon buildup on the grooves that hold the apex seals. Seems to me, this is the real issue, not "flooding", as characterized by Mazda. My car has rarely experienced hard starting before this year, but the problem has gotten progressively worse until last week when it failed to start. It had been sitting for over a week, while I was on vacation and like so many others, I washed, waxed and detailed it before leaving so it would be ready to roll when I got home. I made the mistake of moving it out to the driveway and back into the garage without warming - I did do the 3k RPM thing, however. What I've noticed is that the longer it sits, the harder it starts. I'm convinced this is due to carbon build up, which harden over time, like when the car sits for a few days. When you turn it over, the seals retract ever so slightly, preventing adequate compression to start the vehicle at low RPM. I tried the Mazda method in their flooding service bulletin - found the link on this forum, thanks for that! Forgot who posted it now, but it was very helpful. Car still didn't start but it did pop a few times, after doing the oil thing. Pulling it up my sloped driveway, then coasting and popping the clutch is the trick. Now I have a check engine light and a Wednesday appointment with the local dealer. Still under warranty, but who knows what they will do. Probably just clear the codes. I'm guessing, based on what it took to get it started, my engine would have been "decarboned" had it gone to the dealer. Seems a fairly harsh procedure, but it makes sense. Once you get carbon buildup, the starting problem will likely be an issue until you get rid of it. My car doesn't see much highway travel, so I think that's the basic problem. I'm going to get it out on a good long highway trip and hope that will help get the carbon out. Anybody out there know if an injector claener or other fuel additive is any help?

While you're at the deal, have the coils, plugs, and battery replaced. These ar emajor contributing factors to this problem as well. Be sure to get NGK plug, not those POS plugs Mazda uses.

While you're at the deal, have the coils, plugs, and battery replaced. These ar emajor contributing factors to this problem as well. Be sure to get NGK plug, not those POS plugs Mazda uses.

I think that would be an excessive reaction. This is the first time it's happpened and reading through much of the content on this thread, mostly my falut. I'm pretty sure if I replaced the plugs, battery and coils, then backed my car out of the garage cold, turned it off, then pulled it back in, turned it off then let it sit for a week, pretty likely it would be flooded. The dealer won't pay for all that just because I want it, so it would be my cost. If I flood again I may change my opinion ....

I've needed roadside assistance for flooding three times in 5 years. Each time, it was the morning after I just backed the car into the garage. The last time, I left the engine running for about 3 minutes. I've also noticed that there's been a slight hesitation in starting in the few days before the problem. If I get this now, I give it a good burn up a hill in second gear to peak revs. Now, I try to get close to peak revs each day at least once. If I start the car, I leave it running until the temperature gauge is at least to the second division. The dealer recommended that I drive without 4th and 5th gear unless on the expressway. I have been using lower gears, and don't see much loss of fuel consumption. Last time it was flooded, it took about an hour to get going, with smoke coming off the started motor - not good.

No I have never flooded my 8 but the engine has to be warmed up and the RENESIS is a high revving engine made to be driven. Having the new type High output starter helps out as well it does not allow the engine to crank that long which does not allow fuel to buildup in the chamber. I also know automatics are more prone to flooding as well.

I have flooded the engine now 3 times in the last 3mths and now am having problems with starting - my mazda tech said the starter has now gone - but to be expexted with pre 08 models, they now know the problem and have a better and more powerful starter - no good for me fork out over $800 to fix

yeah the starter is expensive and the relay might have to get changed as well.

As a general comment, the electrical system is oft overlooked in favor of upgraded intake, exhaust, flywheel, etc. etc.

The proper spark (from strong starter motor, supplied by a strong batery, via efficient coils, well insulated and amply conductive sparkplug cables and high quality sparkplugs) is essential to reliable, high performance, operation.

I agree I have put a new lighter flywheel and new plugs, coils, wires that is probably the easiest overlooked. good advice

I still find it amusing every time I hear this problem referred to as flooding. It's simply a loss of compression, not even always caused by lubrication washout from excessive fuel. Totally different from what is called flooding in a piston engine. Think about it. Part of Mazda's recommended procedure injects oil into the combustion chambers to help restore compression. If this were true fuel flooding, injecting oil would only make the problem worse. Changing parts or adding performance parts may make you feel better, but they don't fix the problem. I'm guessing the Mazda tech suggested replacing the starter not because it was shot, but because the new design is more powerful and might prevent another no start situation. If you can spin the engine fast enough, it will start. Of all the parts people have been talking about replacing, a strong battery and fast starter seem to be of the most value if you want to reduce the chance of a no start.

I think that would be an excessive reaction. This is the first time it's happpened and reading through much of the content on this thread, mostly my falut. I'm pretty sure if I replaced the plugs, battery and coils, then backed my car out of the garage cold, turned it off, then pulled it back in, turned it off then let it sit for a week, pretty likely it would be flooded. The dealer won't pay for all that just because I want it, so it would be my cost. If I flood again I may change my opinion ....

With all respect, I think you'd find you would be [/I]less[/i] likely to flood. If you take the time to read back through this thread, you'll see that cars that are over three years old with the same battery, plugs, and wires are the one that the problem begins to show up and have the greatest difficulty getting restarted. There is a proven problem with arcing damage to the coils (pull one off a three year old car and you can see a round circle in the bottom surface where the coil arcs through to the mount due to overheating and time); pull the stock RX8 plug and compare it to an NGK plug; there is no comparison between the cheap stock components and the new ones. Finally, you have to agree that a hot, hot battery helps when the plugs are wet.

I'm not beating anyone over the head here with the exception if Mazda. It's almost as if they designed the Perfect Storm of cheap ignition components to cause this flooding problem. The Renesis motor is no low maintenance compared to a piston motor, especially when it come to plugs, wire, coils, and batteries. Changing plugs yearly, coils every two to three years, and the battery as a load test (not a voltage test) indicates is not an "excessive reaction", it apparently just a fact of operation of this motor. I don't wish you any bad luck, VT, but if you ignore the ignition components, you will flood again; the question at that point will be if you can get it restarted because you kept up with the maintenance, or have to have a tow to Mazda. Warranty or not, that usually isn't on anyone's schedule.

thanks to everyone for the reply - all good advise, yep changed the coils, battery etc..... when the car was still under warranty - plugs changed last service to high performance ones, came out of warranty a while ago Just got a call from the Mazda tech, told me that Mazda Aust. said they would pay for 50% of parts and labour for the starter and cause they are doing that I get to pay a 1/3 of the retial price so it getting fixed! yippee and only costing $280.00 which I'm pretty happy about.
I agree that the older RX8's have a lot of problems and it's normal that they learn from mistakes.. it just sucks that we are paying for them and Mazda know this too - so you just have to nagg and whin to your Mazda tech until they do something about it.. one for the girls:lol:

OK, good historical perspective. I'm a recent joiner and certainly haven't taken the time to wade through the literally hundreds of responses to this thread over the years. What I do know is that despite my car being an '05, it only has 10K on it. Coils, plugs, etc. are not that affected by age, but use. If these statistics regarding arched coils and weak plugs were stated in terms of mileage it would be far more helpful. The bottom line here is that the problem starts with loss of compression, not conventional flooding. After reading your response (zenrx), it is understood that it all matters. If you want to take your best shot at not flooding, replace the plugs, coils, get a high capacity battery and hot starter (is there an aftermarket starter?). Given the 5 year bumper to bumper warranty, cost of replacement parts, etc., it's hard to spend the money on those parts. Hard to imagine my car would have started so easily just rolling it down the hill and popping the clutch if the plugs, wires and coils needed replacing. I'm inclined to tkae my chances for now, but have a hard time picturing my car on a flat bed. Might be time to rethink it.

The '8 is one of those things you buy only to find out that it doesn't behave like similar items, i.e. piston driven conventional motors. It's a bitch, no doubt; but on the other hand, I don't get the feeling from any other car that this one gives me, including up to a 350ZX (one of which I left in a roll-on on the interstate the other night.)

For that, I'll change a few plugs and coils every couple of years. :SHOCKED:

Hang in there, bro.

WTF WTF WTF WTF ok im so pissed i didnt read but the first page but damnit i moved my car out of the garage this morning and let it set (takin trash out had to move it ) when to start it 6 hours latter and nothing ..nothing at all i called mazda nad they tel me its a 700 dollar fix they have to drain the engine and replace the plugs im about to torch he 8 does any body wanna save it

Call NRMA get a tow and clutch start it

i Flooded mine because the battery went dead,
you can take out the fuel fuse this drains the fuel out it should start if your battery is good lol.

ok guys i paid 76 dolars for some new plugs and used a syringe to put 30cc's of oil in each cylinder hole cranked it and it started right up ..needless to say it smoked like a freight train down the road for a min...shewww this one scared me tho i used Bulletin No: 01-015/08 from mazda and it realy helped

My engine flooded last month while in the care of the airport valet parking. I had it towed to my local Mazda dealer and they performed the change the plugs, decarbonization procedure and asked for $480.

I printed a copy of the TSB linked earlier in this thread which I believe was reissued on 10/24/2008 which showed it was covered under the extended engine warranty of 8 yrs/100,000 miles and the dealer ended up not charging anything, so I think Mazda has just stepped up and just blanket covered flooding repairs.

woan,

can you link that TSB here ? My car is in dealership now with the flooding issue and they are asking for 700$+ I foudn the TSB page but there is lot of stuff in there and I am not sure exactly which one talks about this. My car is at 56k so it is under extended warranty now

woan,

can you link that TSB here ? My car is in dealership now with the flooding issue and they are asking for 700$+ I foudn the TSB page but there is lot of stuff in there and I am not sure exactly which one talks about this. My car is at 56k so it is under extended warranty now

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-015-08-1883f.pdf

See page 14.

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-015-08-1883f.pdf

See page 14.

Yes this is the one that got me off the hook for the flooding charge.

WTF!!! I just paid 421.04 today for a deflood on my 04 RX8 under 100,000. I asked them if it was covered under the warranty they said "No". I even asked them about that specific TSB and they just told me "TSB's are what we use to fix issues that come up they are not not any type of "recall" type thing that should be done". WTF...are they full of shit should I go get my money back???


I didn't even see that Warranty page, what should I do if they still say no?

I learned from my 86 RX-7, I warm my 8 even if I just pull it out of the garage and have had no problem. I clean it out every other day with an 8500 RPM brief run.
I went as far as installing a switch to turn off the fuel pump on the 7 many years ago and have not used it after the warm up thing.

WTF!!! I just paid 421.04 today for a deflood on my 04 RX8 under 100,000. I asked them if it was covered under the warranty they said "No". I even asked them about that specific TSB and they just told me "TSB's are what we use to fix issues that come up they are not not any type of "recall" type thing that should be done". WTF...are they full of shit should I go get my money back???

I didn't even see that Warranty page, what should I do if they still say no?


If this is your first deflood, you should have a good case to get your money back.

I would go back to the dealer with a printed copy of the TSB and politely ask for my money back since it clearly states deflooding is covered until 8 years/100K miles. If they don't give you a full refund I would then call the MNAO 800 number and ask how you can get your money back.

This is not a "recall" issue. A service bulletin simply tells the dealer how to handle correcting a problem that has come up. A TSB is suposed to be done for free while that part of the car is still under warranty.

If this is your first deflood, you should have a good case to get your money back.

I would go back to the dealer with a printed copy of the TSB and politely ask for my money back since it clearly states deflooding is covered until 8 years/100K miles. If they don't give you a full refund I would then call the MNAO 800 number and ask how you can get your money back.

This is not a "recall" issue. A service bulletin simply tells the dealer how to handle correcting a problem that has come up. A TSB is suposed to be done for free while that part of the car is still under warranty.

I wouldn't even think it matters if it has happened before. I would definitely appeal to MNAO for a refund regardless, as the TSB indicates that the dealer can get reimbursed by warranty claim from Mazda.

I think they said they "deflooded" my car once, but it never got to the point where I couldn't start the car...I think I am just going to call MNAO tomorrow and ask them what I should do cause I am sick of dealing with this service center. They have screwed me over on getting things fixed and today when I picked my car up it wa dirty on the exterior and interior (geese looking stuff)...

Bad Service Center = Sierra Motor Mall Ottawa IL, 61350

All I have to say about flooding is pull-start ftw

Yes this is the one that got me off the hook for the flooding charge.

Thanks for the link.. WIll check with my dealer tomm and update on how it goes.. I tried talking to the dealership several times and they kept denying the warranty thing. Not sure how much haggling I will have to do again... Also do you guys know about when the road side assistance expires ?? It used to cover my tows before and dealership was trying to charge that to me as well.. Thanks for the help again guys.

Thanks for the link.. WIll check with my dealer tomm and update on how it goes.. I tried talking to the dealership several times and they kept denying the warranty thing. Not sure how much haggling I will have to do again... Also do you guys know about when the road side assistance expires ?? It used to cover my tows before and dealership was trying to charge that to me as well.. Thanks for the help again guys.

I think you are out of luck with roadside assistance. Mine expired before the original warranty and I was lucky that I also had AAA (discount on storage locally paid for first year of membership).

My roadside assistance was renewed when I picked up an extended warranty before Mazda extended the 2004 engine warranty to 8yrs/100,000 miles because I was so afraid of the rotary repair bills.

If I had a Manual I would have pull started...

well very lucky for all of you that Mazda North America extended the warranty - but what about us in Australia - no extension yet
:banghead: head in the wall

Mine has kinda flooded, in that it doesn't start immediately on the first crank. However, I've found that it *WILL* start either on a longer first crank, or at the worst, on the second.

If this is really the flooding problem everyone is talking about, then I'm only marginally concerned about it. No - when you've cranked until smoke is coming off the starter motor over half an hour, you know you have the problem.

Damit! I just got off the phone with Mazda Customer Service Center and they told me that Flooding my car was my fault and that that TSB doesn't mean that you should get your car deflooded for free. They are blaming it on us the RX-8 owners and sayings its because we don't know how to drive the RX-8 properly even though alot of us have warmed the car up properly and still had it flood...? WTF though the TSB clearly shows that if I am having this problem it should be covered since the extended warranty right?

The only thing the lady did for me was give me $200 toward service on my Mazda, which was nice, but still fucking sucks. I love my car, but the rotary is starting to piss me off.

BTW should I have called MNAO instead of customer service? Would it have made a difference? And wtf is the number for MNAO, don't tell me to look it up because I have searched and can't find it.

Thanks guys!

well very lucky for all of you that Mazda North America extended the warranty - but what about us in Australia - no extension yet
:banghead: head in the wall

Perhaps we need to work together on this. I'm in Sydney, where are you?

I have forwarded information regarding this problem to a legal firm specializing in automotive class action lawsuits. Based on Mazda's apparent willingness to cover flooding under the extended warranty, this may play out years from now, after warranty expiration. Clearly, Mazda has admitted to a problem, evidenced by design modifications in the form of a stronger starter and larger battery, as well as the recall itself and the extended warranty. There is no mistaking this as a design issue and those affected by it could care less if it was the only way Mazda could market this engine in the US. Given the suggestions in this thread, there were and are alternatives to stranding owners, through some fairly simple design changes - potentially what Mazda has already incorporated along with fuel delivery profile changes. In any event, I will post a new thread if and when this becomes a reality.

One of the reasons I bought the 8 is that I had an RX3 years ago and love the rotary. In the 14 years I owned the car, it never flooded once. Clearly, there is a significant difference in the Renesis design that has caused this problem, although it does appearRX7 owners have had the same problem to a lesser extent. I suspect this issue will play out with a huge class action lawsuit in Mazda's lap.

^Coul you look into that whole clutch pedal snapping problem? Do you think that merrits a class action lawsuit? Mazda hasn't acknowledged that problem, offers no TSB for the issue, even though a bunch of people are having their clutch pedals snap off.

rhjames, yep i'm in sydney and very much want to get onto this issue with Mazda Australia. I have an 04 with close to 70,000km and the problems in the last few mths is driving me nuts, the car just isn't fun anymore.
I'm planing on sending a fax to Mazda Australia head office in regards to ext war! and maybe online petion - got any ideas??

To all those people in Australia or any other country that would like to help, I have started a petition to mazda Australia to get the extended warranty here in australia
please go to the petition below

http://www.gopetition.com/online/23393.html

or the new thread, RX8Club.com (http://www.rx8club.com/index.php) > Regional Forums (http://www.rx8club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=28) > Australian Forum (http://www.rx8club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=37) http://www.rx8club.com/images/misc/navbits_finallink.gif (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=160744) Petition to Mazda Australia, Extended Warranty 8 years/161,00km for Mazda 2003-20

rhjames, yep i'm in sydney and very much want to get onto this issue with Mazda Australia. I have an 04 with close to 70,000km and the problems in the last few mths is driving me nuts, the car just isn't fun anymore.
I'm planing on sending a fax to Mazda Australia head office in regards to ext war! and maybe online petion - got any ideas??
Let's see how the petition goes. I'm getting a service next week and I'll try to feel things out on whether they are planning anything for the problem.

Took my '8 out yesterday after having had it sit for two weeks (winter mode).

Although I had just barely warmed it before prior shutdown I neglected to also do the 10 second 3k rev I typically do.

It still started right up and I'm on the March '05 OEM Interstate battery.

Still floodless. :)

I flooded my 2004 RX8 for the first time in 2 years - totally my fault.
Problem is I can't seem to get it running - tried the standard foot to the floor and crank, even used another car to spin the ting for 2-3 minutes - NADA!!
My shop says it may or may not be covered under warranty, the tow in is not.
Thiing is whatever the shop does, surley I can do ??
Does anyone know what tricks the shop will do to un-flood this RX8 that is different from the normal procedure??
Quick-start, remove plugs, ???

I flooded my 2004 RX8 for the first time in 2 years - totally my fault.
Problem is I can't seem to get it running - tried the standard foot to the floor and crank, even used another car to spin the ting for 2-3 minutes - NADA!!
My shop says it may or may not be covered under warranty, the tow in is not.
Thiing is whatever the shop does, surley I can do ??
Does anyone know what tricks the shop will do to un-flood this RX8 that is different from the normal procedure??
Quick-start, remove plugs, ???

The de-flood procedure is here:

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-015-08-1883f.pdf

Hi msrecant - the old oil into the chamber trick eh?
Well, I'll try it
Thanks for the link..

I flooded my 2004 RX8 for the first time in 2 years - totally my fault.
Problem is I can't seem to get it running - tried the standard foot to the floor and crank, even used another car to spin the ting for 2-3 minutes - NADA!!
My shop says it may or may not be covered under warranty, the tow in is not.
Thiing is whatever the shop does, surley I can do ??
Does anyone know what tricks the shop will do to un-flood this RX8 that is different from the normal procedure??
Quick-start, remove plugs, ???

pull start it

The de-flood procedure is here:

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-015-08-1883f.pdf

I read this - I can't even find the spark plugs!!! This is too complex for the average owner - who keeps a spare set of plugs???

The times I've had a service guy come to the car, they've pulled a couple of fuses - one would be the fuel pump - and run the starter motor until it smoked. Then replace the fuses and try again. This took a few cycles, and about 45 minutes. Also used an additional barrery.

Spark plugs are located around knee height on the drivers side of the engine, unless you live in Australia, then they are knee height on the passenger side, and upside down.

S

No. really - the ONLY 100% sure way is the tow start.
I've never flooded my '8, but my RX-3 used to flood often in the cold Canadian winters. NOTHING would get it going as easily as a tow for a hundred yards in second gear, engine spinning around 3k, worked every time.

And the rotors spin counter- (anti-) clockwise. ;)

Spark plugs are located around knee height on the drivers side of the engine, unless you live in Australia, then they are knee height on the passenger side, and upside down.

S

No. really - the ONLY 100% sure way is the tow start.
I've never flooded my '8, but my RX-3 used to flood often in the cold Canadian winters. NOTHING would get it going as easily as a tow for a hundred yards in second gear, engine spinning around 3k, worked every time.

My brother bought my rx8 new (2004) and I got it from him 1 year ago...he never had any trouble with it...regular service and oil (of course)...in the last year it did flood...classic cold start no-no flood sequence...$20 to AAA for tow and $117 to Mazda dealership (Apr 2008) (guys in Greensboro, NC are great)...only other service issues: new key fob for $114...you guys make me nervous...I have 50k on it now...and I'm just waiting for it to inexplicably explode at any moment...

That said I love my RX-8...(tears)...I rent cars all over the country and nothing compares to when I get home from out of town, de-plane and drive off for the 10 minute ride home from the airport..ahhhh...

I had 1978 RX-7 Limited (one of 3,000 sold USA) when in high school in 1985...it was very coolerest once the Hurst shifter my brother spun on for the gear knob was in place...goofy but fun.

We had 1980 RX-7 before that...neighbor cut my brother off in curve and totalled it...bro and neighbor were fine...but thought we'd lost a friend :-)

...BTW...as I'm at 50k and no techie expert (just love the car)...any suggestions on servicing at this point...I guess I'd be more of an expert if I'd had the level of frustration some of you have had...but in hopes of avoiding problems I'd appreciate some basic service advice...or direction to a good post from the past on this board...thx.

whoops...just remembered...I lied...my driver's side sunvisor came off in my hand the other day...suggestions on where to get new?

Tow start, as already stated, 2nd gear 10 - 15 mph.
Works everytime.
This problem is due to lack of compression due to the oil in the rotary cylinder having been diluted. Injecting oil or a tow start to spin the engine fast enough to pump oil to the roter is the main cure.:banghead:

That's a very apt description of the unique-to-rotary problem in getting it to restart once flooded. Of course the real problem is flooding it in the first place. If cold, hold the rev at 3k for 10 seconds prior to shutdown to clear out the excess unburned fuel (I know, we're on page 69 of this thread at this point, but good to remind none the less).

Tow start, as already stated, 2nd gear 10 - 15 mph.
Works everytime.

This problem is due to lack of compression due to the oil in the rotary cylinder having been diluted. Injecting oil or a tow start to spin the engine fast enough to pump oil to the roter is the main cure.:banghead:

Spark plugs are located around knee height on the drivers side of the engine, unless you live in Australia, then they are knee height on the passenger side, and upside down.
.

OK - next time I'm upside down I'll look for them. Does this mean I have to get at them from under the car?

Next time I flood I'll try the tow start.

Jack up the driver's side front and remove that wheel. Here's an excellent sparkplug DIY: http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=31872&highlight=spark+plug+DIY

(yes, Search is a wonderful thing)

OK - next time I'm upside down I'll look for them. Does this mean I have to get at them from under the car?

Next time I flood I'll try the tow start.

I flooded my 2004 RX8 for the first time in 2 years - totally my fault.
Problem is I can't seem to get it running - tried the standard foot to the floor and crank, even used another car to spin the ting for 2-3 minutes - NADA!!
My shop says it may or may not be covered under warranty, the tow in is not.
Thiing is whatever the shop does, surley I can do ??
Does anyone know what tricks the shop will do to un-flood this RX8 that is different from the normal procedure??
Quick-start, remove plugs, ???

k the first think u should try is pullin the fuel pump fuse crank it a few time put it back in and try to start if that doesnt work....u could try a push start although i dont like doing that myself i did it once and it worked.....but the best way to clean out the gas is to remove the plugs and the fuel pump fuse and crank it clutch in gas to the floor and crank for a few seconds 3-4 do this about 4 times then use a heat gun and try to dry it out some more just to make sure u shouldnt have to use it tho clean ur plugs replace them crank it once then replace the fuse and u should have ignition....try this and if ur engine is flooded its guaranteed to work unless ur plugs are still wet or ur battery is no good or something like that but if ur car was working good b4 the flood then this method should work....good luck to all (check out my vids i have on youtube @ www.youtube.com/walidrx8) leave ur comments lemme know what u guys think

That's too much work. Just pull start it.

k the first think u should try is pullin the fuel pump fuse crank it a few time put it back in and try to start if that doesnt work....u could try a push start although i dont like doing that myself i did it once and it worked.....but the best way to clean out the gas is to remove the plugs and the fuel pump fuse and crank it clutch in gas to the floor and crank for a few seconds 3-4 do this about 4 times then use a heat gun and try to dry it out some more just to make sure u shouldnt have to use it tho clean ur plugs replace them crank it once then replace the fuse and u should have ignition....try this and if ur engine is flooded its guaranteed to work unless ur plugs are still wet or ur battery is no good or something like that but if ur car was working good b4 the flood then this method should work....good luck to all (check out my vids i have on youtube @ www.youtube.com/walidrx8) leave ur comments lemme know what u guys think

That's too much work. Just pull start it.

+1 for pull start

That's too much work. Just pull start it.

yea i know its easier but i just dont like it just a personal preffernce but yea i did push start it once it worked perfectly

I far prefer a pull start. Install the front tow hook and use a strap to pull it. I pulled mine up my sloped driveway then coasted down and it started. had tried all the other stuff before that. Since doing that, it has been starting well, although somewhat slower than I recall. It sat for a couple of weeks recently before going into storage. When I went to start it, the battery was dead. After charging, it started better than ever. I am now convinced the battery/starter have a lot to do with this problem. When I pulled the battery for winter storage, I couldn't help but notice Mazda has provided a container for a much larger battery. In the spring, I think mine will have the highest capacity battery that will fit.

My '05 came with a Panasonic POS battery. Anemic.

Have the "Engine cranks but won't start" TSB performed and you'll get the better starter and an Interstate battery. Free under warranty.

My '05 came with a Panasonic POS battery. Anemic.

I am also a victim of the flooded engine. It was a cold day and i moved the car from the driveway to garage; maybe had it runnning for 30 seconds. Later when i wanted to drive out the car would not start. I started panicing but after going through this GREAT forum, i realized the engine was flooded. Removed the spark plugs and and cranked the engine dry. Reinstalled the spark plugs, and cranked it a few times and nothing, but after cranking and pressing the gas pedal for about 15 minutes it finally started to fire. Saved me $300,....love this forum. Thanks guys.

when your cars have flooded do the garages charge you for getting your cars started when they are under warranty. my car was parked far a week started first time cut out and would not start again,Mazda garage towed the car for 2 miles to start it and are wanting to charge me over £90 for repairs

I just got charged over 410 dollars because my car was flooded. What really pisses me off is the fact that I didn't even move or start the damn car. I was just about to go to work and all it would do is crank and that was it. So I took it to Mike Raisors here Lafayette on friday and got a rental. They told me if it was a warranty issue they would cover the rental. So they told me the car would be done on monday and it wasn't. They then told me it would be ready on tuesday and it wasn't and then by Wed. the car was done. Now this whole time I had a rental car. So then they tell me that the total was 410 dollars and that thats not even including the 200 rental for the 5 days. So overall to get new spark plugs put in and an oil change cost me 610 dollars that I don't have. How can this shit not be under warranty? It's a design flaw in the car. I had the engine replaced 15000 miles ago with brand new coils and plugs. This shouldn't have happened. I only have 55000 miles on the car now and If I have to pay 600 bucks every time this happens then i'm getting rid of the piece of shit tomorrow. I feel like I have to replace the spark plugs every 15000 miles which is pretty messed up. So now I'm having to call a lawyer and Mazda. If Mazda still won't pay for it then I go the route of the Lawyer and Attorney General.


This isn't the first time I've had my car flooded. I had it happen when I first got the car twice. I haven't had it happen to me since and that was 3 years ago. So I'm a very VERY unhappy Mazda customer right now. I don't know if anyone has any advice or similar problems, cause I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

Sorry for the rant I just needed to get this off my chest.:rant: :rant:

To me the engine flooding should be under the extended warranty. I mean it is technically an engine failure. If Mazda doesn't see it this way. I'm sure the Attorney General of my state will.

I've had my share of flooding, as reported earlier, but roadside service has always got it going with much smoking of the starter motor. Recently I had miss in the engine. I was relieved to find it only needed a new spark plug and two leads. Then I found out it cost over $500. All up, in 5 years and 90,000 km, cost hasn't been too bad (tyres were a shock).

The latest I've been told about flooding is just to rev it to over 3,000 rpm after a cold start before shutting off to clear out excess fuel. However, I also like to get a bit of temperature into it. This is what I do now, and haven't had a problem for about 6 months. I also try to get it up near peak revs at least once each trip, and drive it reasonably hard.

I find that starting is normally very easy. If I ever get an unusual delay in starting, I give it a good burn before turning off, just in case.

One serviceman told be to never use 4th or 5th gear unless on the expressway. I didn't like this one - can't afford the fuel, though the car feels good.

I'm happy with the car, but doubt that I'd buy another rotary.

my father has a 2004 rx8 wich recently broke down about sixty miles from his house i had to go get him. he took his car to a dealership they told him that it was going to cost him 1500.00 to replace spark plugs, ignition coil packs and spark plug wire set. i told him i could do it for the price of the supplies i just changed the spark plugs (NGK Laser Iridium part number's RE7C-L, RE9B-T) and now the car won't start it just makes a whining sound. never had this happen from just changing spark plugs so if some one can offer some insght would be extremly grateful. thanks in advance for your suggestions:banghead:

yup i think my engine is flooded as well.. all it does is crank during start up.. do you think they will try to blame my k&n intake if i bring it to mazda?

the flooding on my car was sorted by the dealer who took out the fuel pump fuse towed the car for two miles put the fuse back in and the car started he does this with ALLthe flooded rx8

my father has a 2004 rx8 wich recently broke down about sixty miles from his house i had to go get him. he took his car to a dealership they told him that it was going to cost him 1500.00 to replace spark plugs, ignition coil packs and spark plug wire set. i told him i could do it for the price of the supplies i just changed the spark plugs (NGK Laser Iridium part number's RE7C-L, RE9B-T) and now the car won't start it just makes a whining sound. never had this happen from just changing spark plugs so if some one can offer some insght would be extremly grateful. thanks in advance for your suggestions:banghead:

first check and make sure u put the plugs in correct then take all the plugs out take out the fuel pump fuse crank the car a few time depends on how bad its flooded crank and hold for about 4 seconds u should see and smell fuel spraying out like mist then replace the plugs just to be sure b4 u put back the fuse use some quick start spray it in the trottle body and let someone else crank the car while spraying dont skimp on the spray use alot it will help to clean out ur trottle body 2 at the same time when u do this the car should attempt to start or it should even start if done the right way then replce the fuse and try starting it hope this helps.....where u from im in toronto if u want i could help u out with this

http://photos2.hi5.com/0067/083/633/RrynbC083633-02.jpg

the flooding on my car was sorted by the dealer who took out the fuel pump fuse towed the car for two miles put the fuse back in and the car started he does this with ALLthe flooded rx8

I'm not sure why the fuse is pulled out. I assume it's towed in 6th gear with the ignition off. On the other hand, perhaps ignition has to be on for power brakes and steering. Can you enlighten me on this. Of course, I understand the reason for pulling the fuse if ignition is on.

my father has a 2004 rx8 wich recently broke down about sixty miles from his house i had to go get him. he took his car to a dealership they told him that it was going to cost him 1500.00 to replace spark plugs, ignition coil packs and spark plug wire set. i told him i could do it for the price of the supplies i just changed the spark plugs (NGK Laser Iridium part number's RE7C-L, RE9B-T) and now the car won't start it just makes a whining sound. never had this happen from just changing spark plugs so if some one can offer some insght would be extremly grateful. thanks in advance for your suggestions:banghead:

It sounds like you may have hosed down the rotors and chamber; when this happens the motor makes a strange whining sound as it turns over due to lack of compression caused by loss of the oil film between the rotors and housing as excess fuel washes it away. The Mazda TSB for deflooding includes somewhat complex instructions for injecting oil into the rotor housings which you may or may not have the mechanical know how to perform. Try this:

1) Jack up the right front and remove the wheel to get access to the plugs;; be sure to chock the rears, of course.

2) Pull the leading plugs and the fuel injector fuse

3) Use a turkey baster to inject a about 5 ccs of oil into each plug hole; get out from under the car and crank the motor a few times, repeat.

4) replace the plugs and the fuel pump fuse

5) Crank the motor with your foot off the gas, and make SURE you battery is hot and fully charge, use a jump cable to another battery if there is any doubt. It should start within 3 tries; if it does, it'll smoke like crazy for a few minutes until the oil clears, but it'll run.

Hopefully this will do it, here's hoping you don't have to go to the stealership.

I'm not sure why the fuse is pulled out. I assume it's towed in 6th gear with the ignition off. On the other hand, perhaps ignition has to be on for power brakes and steering. Can you enlighten me on this. Of course, I understand the reason for pulling the fuse if ignition is on.

Pulling the fuse prevents the ECU from providing an enriched fuel load on a cold start; the problem is too much fuel already. Two miles is a long way to tow without any fuel to lube the rotors, though; remember, the only lubrication this car gets is through the injectors, there is no crankcase. I'd rather see you crank the car a few times without the fuse in and then replace it before pull starting it to minimize the chance of scoring the rotor housing.

Have the "Engine cranks but won't start" TSB performed and you'll get the better starter and an Interstate battery. Free under warranty.

+1, and if your coils and plugs are stock and over 2 years old, replace them, replace them, replace them.

I'm somewhat surprised by the number of reported flooded engines. The Renesis is not as useable as it should be if it has to be run for 5 minutes whenever it is started: not user friendly. How many people have actually fallen foul of this problem?

Me :eyetwitch

5) Crank the motor with your foot off the gas, and make SURE you battery is hot and fully charge, use a jump cable to another battery if there is any doubt. It should start within 3 tries; if it does, it'll smoke like crazy for a few minutes until the oil clears, but it'll run.

Hopefully this will do it, here's hoping you don't have to go to the stealership.

Pulling the fuse prevents the ECU from providing an enriched fuel load on a cold start; the problem is too much fuel already. .


putting the throttle pedal COMPLETELY down also stops fuel from being injected while cranking. no pulling the fuse necessary. cranking for about 8 seconds should clear any unburned fuel out of the engine.

then let go of the pedal and crank again to start- smoke like crazy etc. possibly destroy the CAT.

And the RENESIS got an award for motor of the year???

Go Figure.

putting the throttle pedal COMPLETELY down also stops fuel from being injected while cranking. no pulling the fuse necessary. cranking for about 8 seconds should clear any unburned fuel out of the engine.

then let go of the pedal and crank again to start- smoke like crazy etc. possibly destroy the CAT.

Thanks for the 411!

I just got charged over 410 dollars because my car was flooded. What really pisses me off is the fact that I didn't even move or start the damn car. I was just about to go to work and all it would do is crank and that was it. So I took it to Mike Raisors here Lafayette on friday and got a rental. They told me if it was a warranty issue they would cover the rental. So they told me the car would be done on monday and it wasn't. They then told me it would be ready on tuesday and it wasn't and then by Wed. the car was done. Now this whole time I had a rental car. So then they tell me that the total was 410 dollars and that thats not even including the 200 rental for the 5 days. So overall to get new spark plugs put in and an oil change cost me 610 dollars that I don't have. How can this shit not be under warranty? It's a design flaw in the car. I had the engine replaced 15000 miles ago with brand new coils and plugs. This shouldn't have happened. I only have 55000 miles on the car now and If I have to pay 600 bucks every time this happens then i'm getting rid of the piece of shit tomorrow. I feel like I have to replace the spark plugs every 15000 miles which is pretty messed up. So now I'm having to call a lawyer and Mazda. If Mazda still won't pay for it then I go the route of the Lawyer and Attorney General.


This isn't the first time I've had my car flooded. I had it happen when I first got the car twice. I haven't had it happen to me since and that was 3 years ago. So I'm a very VERY unhappy Mazda customer right now. I don't know if anyone has any advice or similar problems, cause I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

Sorry for the rant I just needed to get this off my chest.:rant: :rant:


I am a very unhappy Mazda Owner too. Mazda does not stand behind their products. We should not have to replace our plugs everytime our cars get flooded, not only that Mazda should fix the problem for free since they failed to diclose that info to us when we bought our vehicles. I know they did not tell me about flooding issues.

It sounds like you may have hosed down the rotors and chamber; when this happens the motor makes a strange whining sound as it turns over due to lack of compression caused by loss of the oil film between the rotors and housing as excess fuel washes it away. The Mazda TSB for deflooding includes somewhat complex instructions for injecting oil into the rotor housings which you may or may not have the mechanical know how to perform. Try this:

1) Jack up the right front and remove the wheel to get access to the plugs;; be sure to chock the rears, of course.

2) Pull the leading plugs and the fuel injector fuse

3) Use a turkey baster to inject a about 5 ccs of oil into each plug hole; get out from under the car and crank the motor a few times, repeat.

4) replace the plugs and the fuel pump fuse

5) Crank the motor with your foot off the gas, and make SURE you battery is hot and fully charge, use a jump cable to another battery if there is any doubt. It should start within 3 tries; if it does, it'll smoke like crazy for a few minutes until the oil clears, but it'll run.

Hopefully this will do it, here's hoping you don't have to go to the stealership.


Stealership is a good way of putting it heh heh. My car still won't start.:(