Happened for the first time about a year ago...

then happened again about 2 weeks ago... then again last week, and again TODAY!

While coming home from school (about a 15 mile drive on highway) I started loosing power when trying to accelerate. The "traction" light was blinking and I felt absolutely no power... I had to downshift all the way to 2nd on the Interstate and slow down to about 25-30 mph to regain power.

As I exited... and shifted to neutral, the car shut off. It took about 3 mins for it to turn back on... idled really rough so I revved it for a min or two and then I was on my way again. Car ran fine all the way home.

I drove it to the store about 2 hours later, and on the way home... I had the "traction" light flash again but car didnt shut off. I just got home... but now I have no clue what the problem could be. I think I may just drop it off at the dealer tomorrow morning, but what should I expect to hear?

I know my intake filter needs replacing pretty soon, but could that be the problem? Plug, wires? Autozone coded the P2070 code, could this be the problem also? Should I ask them to check the compression (and will this cost me $$ to have checked)

Thanks guys!

coils ? plugs ?

coils ? plugs ?

how do I know if they are out?

I know the dealer replaced the plugs and wires I think when deflooding my 8 a while back ago. about 40k ago now that I think of it.

I'm going out of town, would it be a bad idea ($$ wise) if I drop the car off tomorrow morning and pick it up Thursday when I get back?

how do I know if they are out?

I know the dealer replaced the plugs and wires I think when deflooding my 8 a while back ago. about 40k ago now that I think of it.

I'm going out of town, would it be a bad idea ($$ wise) if I drop the car off tomorrow morning and pick it up Thursday when I get back?

40 K ago? sheesh

change all plugs and coils. Now. oh, wires too.

get it from CRH/BHR or Mazmart. probably 85 bux for all plugs, wires about 60, coils maybe 27-28 bux each. u need 4.

sounds like you dont know how to install, have someone who knows these stuff do it for you. or do it at some garage, 1 hour max for everything.

No more question. case closed.

40 K ago? sheesh

change all plugs and coils. Now. oh, wires too.

get it from CRH/BHR or Mazmart. probably 85 bux for all plugs, wires about 60, coils maybe 27-28 bux each. u need 4.

sounds like you dont know how to install, have someone who knows these stuff do it for you. or do it at some garage, 1 hour max for everything.

No more question. case closed.

hah, thanks for the advice. How often do you have yours replaced? (just curious)

Also, while searching the net I found this post from a user with what sounds like the same problem.


#28 of 29 used 2004 Mazda RX-8 will stall when the TCS/DSC & engine light come on by johnrvw Mar 08, 2009 (2:32 pm)
I have just purchased a used 2004 Mazda RX-8 with 88,000 miles. I am having an issue where, while driving the car the check engine light and the TCS/DSC Indicator light will come on. When it does the the car will stall - mind you this is while driving down the freeway doing 60+.
Can you help me trouble shoot this?

Replies to this message:
johnrvw (Mar 09, 2009 4:45 pm)
#29 of 29 Re: used 2004 Mazda RX-8 will stall when the TCS/DSC & engine light come on [johnrvw] by johnrvw Mar 09, 2009 (4:45 pm)
Replying to: johnrvw (Mar 08, 2009 2:32 pm)

Drove it to my nearest Mazda dealer to have checked.
Throttle Control valve and gasket needs to be replaced. ($436 just for the parts)

any thoughts?

hah, thanks for the advice. How often do you have yours replaced? (just curious)

I do mine every 10-15K. I want my car to perform "at its best" all the time.

Also, while searching the net I found this post from a user with what sounds like the same problem.



any thoughts?

throttle body hardly fails.

and seriously, change the plugs before the tip breaks off and ruin your engine.

I do mine every 10-15K. I want my car to perform "at its best" all the time.



throttle body hardly fails.

and seriously, change the plugs before the tip breaks off and ruin your engine.

hey thanks for all the inside.

In your honest opinion... would it be a bad idea to take it into the dealer anyway? Or to have them change the plugs/wires/coils? I just have no time, going out of town and I dont want to drive the car around for another week if I order the parts and have to wait for them in the mail.

I'm not stupid, but Ive never done it before so I dont exactly know how to do it myself.

Changing the plugs and wires will take under an hour for someone who's never done it before. Just make sure you have a long extension with a wobble. I had never taken the plugs out before and was able to install the BHR coil kit with wires and plugs in 45 minutes.

with a p2070 code, im guessing thats more likely your problem. sticky ssv will cause motor havoc when it gets stuck badly. low rpms or dropping rpms at all results in occassional stalls, motor starts compensating for all kinds of factors. Plus it means your intake is gunked up, if not your engine. I'd do the full p2070 TSB and an engine decarb with fresh plugs and possibly coils (depending on age)

kevin.

with a p2070 code, im guessing thats more likely your problem. sticky ssv will cause motor havoc when it gets stuck badly. low rpms or dropping rpms at all results in occassional stalls, motor starts compensating for all kinds of factors. Plus it means your intake is gunked up, if not your engine. I'd do the full p2070 TSB and an engine decarb with fresh plugs and possibly coils (depending on age)

kevin.

so with the p2070 TSB I should be able to have the dealer service my car for this issue at no cost? If so... I plan on taking it in on Tuesday for this and also purchasing plugs & wires there and installing them myself.

don't have the dealer change the coils. they will rape you. its easy to do in your driveway. just look on here for a DIY.

so with the p2070 TSB I should be able to have the dealer service my car for this issue at no cost? If so... I plan on taking it in on Tuesday for this and also purchasing plugs & wires there and installing them myself.

take the Bold part out.

Buy those stuff online and save.

If you're under warranty (basic bumper to bumper is da best), have them do it under warranty.

take the Bold part out.

Buy those stuff online and save.

If you're under warranty (basic bumper to bumper is da best), have them do it under warranty.

Ok, i'll purchase online. The main reason I was going to spend a little extra and just buy them at the dealer was to get them right away since they have them in stock. I'd hate to have to wait another week or so for them to come in.

Unfortunately I am no longer under bumper to bumper warranty, so will the dealer charge me to perform this TSB?

Yes.

Send PM to Charles R Hill. He may have a set of coils for you that fixes the bad stock coils. Plus performance increase and should fix flooding issues due to hotter spark.

You still need to Seafoam the SSV and rev the piss out of it.

Once repaired you need to redline more often to prevent sticking valve.

Replacing the coils will not fix the valve, but is a good thing to do.

Yes.

Send PM to Charles R Hill. He may have a set of coils for you that fixes the bad stock coils. Plus performance increase and should fix flooding issues due to hotter spark.

You still need to Seafoam the SSV and rev the piss out of it.

Once repaired you need to redline more often to prevent sticking valve.

Replacing the coils will not fix the valve, but is a good thing to do.

yea i'm definately going to be ordering plugs and wires very soon. I am hoping this will fix my issues.

I also plan on doing the seafoam procedure to fix my p2070 issue. Can anyone direct me to a DIY for this? I cant seem to find a good one with step by step instructions.

thanks again fellas

You should check the Neutral Shift

That could help your problem with not accelerating and making your car go in LIMP mode.

So I just placed the order from sparkplugs.com

NGK Racing plug 6700 RE7CL 2 $20.55 .........$41.10
NGK Racing plug 6701 RE9BT 2 $20.55 .........$41.10
NGK Premium wire set 4858 ZE81 1 $24.95 .......... .$24.95
K&N K&N Replacement Air Filter 33-2284 33-2284 1 $50.65...... $50.65

Came out to $157 for all 4 plugs, the wire set and I got an air filter as well since it needs it too. Opted for the 3 day shipping so I get em changed soon.

All I need now is for someone to help me out with the seafoam procedure or point me to a good DIY for it.

Thanks again guys!!!

So I finally was able to take a little bit of time yesterday afternoon to put the parts in. I installed new plugs and plug wires as well as a K&N air filter.

I Sea Foamed the car right before I checked the plugs out. I followed the steps in the DIY thread and it worked out fine. Car smoked quite a bit, smell wasn't as bad as I thought it would be... but the smoke blew away pretty rapidly so I'm sure someone smelled it!

I've only driving the car to and from school since... and it seems to run with a bit more power while accelerating. The CEL went away for a slight moment, but returned and is currently still on. How long should I expect it to stick around before going away? (P2070 code triggered it according to Autozone). Hope Sea Foaming it worked.

As far as the old plugs... they all looked pretty worn out. One of them had some oil on it as well.... so I'm glad I replaced those. I didnt replace the coils just yet but from what I can tell, looked pretty good still.

Thanks again

if the code is p2070 you still have to do the p2070 tsb, its not the same as just seafoaming or doing the regular engine decarb procedure.

you'll need to remove (and possibly replace) the SSV and internally clean it's chamber within the intake manifold. if you're still in warranty bring it in for the code, they will repair it for free. if you're not under warranty theyll charge you (its a TSB not a recall). You can do it yourself also if you choose.

kevin.

if the code is p2070 you still have to do the p2070 tsb, its not the same as just seafoaming or doing the regular engine decarb procedure.

you'll need to remove (and possibly replace) the SSV and internally clean it's chamber within the intake manifold. if you're still in warranty bring it in for the code, they will repair it for free. if you're not under warranty theyll charge you (its a TSB not a recall). You can do it yourself also if you choose.

kevin.

Oh, ok... thanks for clarifying. Just out of curiosity... what is the dealership charging for this TSB to be preformed? I would like to do it myself... but would hate to mess something up.

Thanks

Oh, ok... thanks for clarifying. Just out of curiosity... what is the dealership charging for this TSB to be preformed? I would like to do it myself... but would hate to mess something up.

Thanks

ITs going to cost a lot. :)

When my SSV was stuck, the dealer wanted to replace everything through the intake and also said the it may have damaged my cat (which was nonsense because I was running catless)

But anyway, they wanted roughly 4k for the parts to clean out my intake, throttle body, and intake and SSV...

Do it yourself - see if you can rally some local 8 owners to help you out.

i dont know the price of the parts, but if you go to the dealer at the least you're going to be buying a new SSV valve which is probably a few hundred, some new gaskets, and maybe 3-4 hours of labor i'd guess.

or they'll try to convince you to buy a whole new manifold and charge 10+ hours of labor to replace it (at which point you advise them you know about the TSB)

kevin.

ITs going to cost a lot. :)

screw that... I'll do it myself! I'll search for the DIY on this TSB.

Ok... so is this the TSB I need to perform?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-019-08-1929a.pdf

If so, after reading through this... I just dont think I am able to perform this myself. I just dont understand how Mazda wont cover this? I am out of warranty. I am at 79,000 miles.

After changing the spark plugs and wires my CEL went away for a few hours then returned, and just yesterday I had it stall on me... yet again. I usually wait about 15-20 minutes, then I am able to start the car again in 2nd gear.

I'm stumped as to what to do now?!? I have about $300-400 extra cash for this month but I'm guessing it'll cost more then that at the dealer?

What do I do??

Ok... so is this the TSB I need to perform?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-019-08-1929a.pdf

If so, after reading through this... I just dont think I am able to perform this myself. I just dont understand how Mazda wont cover this? I am out of warranty. I am at 79,000 miles.

After changing the spark plugs and wires my CEL went away for a few hours then returned, and just yesterday I had it stall on me... yet again. I usually wait about 15-20 minutes, then I am able to start the car again in 2nd gear.

I'm stumped as to what to do now?!? I have about $300-400 extra cash for this month but I'm guessing it'll cost more then that at the dealer?

What do I do??

Yes thats the correct TSB, print it and bring it to the dealer if you feel you are incapable of performing it yourself (or to a friend who is rx8 knowledgeable and capable of the repair)

Why should mazda cover it if you're out of warranty? Improper maintenance isn't their fault... Yes carbon in the motor happens somewhat easily and such but a combination of the proper driving style and correct maintenance would prevent this situation.

kevin.

Yes thats the correct TSB, print it and bring it to the dealer if you feel you are incapable of performing it yourself (or to a friend who is rx8 knowledgeable and capable of the repair)

Why should mazda cover it if you're out of warranty? Improper maintenance isn't their fault... Yes carbon in the motor happens somewhat easily and such but a combination of the proper driving style and correct maintenance would prevent this situation.

kevin.

Yea i understand what you mean.

A neighbor of mine works at the Acura Service Center, maybe if I print this and show it to him, he could work on it since he has experience with working on cars.

To make sure I have this right, what parts do I need to purchase? And from where? (or is it just a cleaning process?)

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks again for helping me out!

Yea i understand what you mean.

A neighbor of mine works at the Acura Service Center, maybe if I print this and show it to him, he could work on it since he has experience with working on cars.

To make sure I have this right, what parts do I need to purchase? And from where? (or is it just a cleaning process?)

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks again for helping me out!

Realistically order all the parts listed on the TSB.

if your friend is mechanically inclined he will be able to do it. it seems harder then it is. You basically unbolt and move the thermostat housing over to the side, then unbolt and slide out the SSV. the TSB makes it seem hard because it breaks it into so many steps. It is a straightforward thing really.

kevin.

An update with the latest:

Today as I was taking off the upper intake manifold (I was going to try an access the stuck valve through there and lub it/clean it with seafoam) my neighbor came by and we started talking about the problems I've been having. Luckily, he has an OBDII reader so we plugged it in.

I havent had a CEL for the last 2 days, but as I'm assuming it gave us the last code that triggered the CEL. It came back as P2096 (post catyastic fuel trim bank 1 system to lean). Nothing on the P2070. So now I'm stumped again. While taking the intake "accordion" hose off, there was some oil residue on the under side near where it attaches to the throttle body. Is that normal? I doubt it.

Both my neighbor and his friend suggested I take it to the dealer to have them drive it. Symptoms again are: Loss of power while accelerating. Stalls (especially when it is really hot out), rough idling at times and today while accelerating on highway a loud really weird rattling between 4500-6500 rpms. I would let off the gas because of how bad it sounded. Wish I had a video camera at the time so I could show u all the crazy sound. Sounded like something was about to fall off or blow.

:( this is frustrating!

DTC P2096 Target A/F feedback system too lean

DETECTION CONDITION

The PCM monitors the target A/F fuel trim when under the target A/F feedback control. If the fuel trim is less than the specification, the PCM determines that the target A/F feedback system is too lean.

Diagnostic support note
This is a continuous monitor (Fuel system).
The MIL illuminates if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition in two consecutive drive cycles or in one drive cycle while the DTC for the same malfunction has been stored in the PCM.
PENDING CODE is available if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition during the first drive cycle.
FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
The DTC is stored in the PCM memory.

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Leakage exhaust gas
Rear HO2S malfunction
IAT sensor malfunction
ECT sensor malfunction
AIR system malfunction
Leakage intake-air
Front HO2S malfunction
MAF sensor malfunction
Fuel line pressure malfunction
Fuel pump unit malfunction
Leakage fuel
Ignition system malfunction
High-tension lead malfunction
Incorrect power supply to ignition coil
Ignition coil malfunction
Insufficient compression
Metering oil pump malfunction
Engine oil condition malfunction
Increased oil pressure
Oil passage malfunction
Engine malfunction
Fuel injector malfunction
PCM malfunction

DTC P2096 Target A/F feedback system too lean

DETECTION CONDITION

The PCM monitors the target A/F fuel trim when under the target A/F feedback control. If the fuel trim is less than the specification, the PCM determines that the target A/F feedback system is too lean.

Diagnostic support note
This is a continuous monitor (Fuel system).
The MIL illuminates if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition in two consecutive drive cycles or in one drive cycle while the DTC for the same malfunction has been stored in the PCM.
PENDING CODE is available if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition during the first drive cycle.
FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
The DTC is stored in the PCM memory.

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Leakage exhaust gas
Rear HO2S malfunction
IAT sensor malfunction
ECT sensor malfunction
AIR system malfunction
Leakage intake-air
Front HO2S malfunction
MAF sensor malfunction
Fuel line pressure malfunction
Fuel pump unit malfunction
Leakage fuel
Ignition system malfunction
High-tension lead malfunction
Incorrect power supply to ignition coil
Ignition coil malfunction
Insufficient compression
Metering oil pump malfunction
Engine oil condition malfunction
Increased oil pressure
Oil passage malfunction
Engine malfunction
Fuel injector malfunction
PCM malfunction

Yea, I found that same exact LONG post on another thread after I posted on here. Im taking it to the dealer and asking about MIAC and engine compression. Also read somewhere that the CAT is covered until 80k... i'm at 79,400 so I'm def gonna ask about that. I then plan on cleaning the MAF and completing the P2070 TSB once and for all. Might not swap the SSV just yet but definitely getting in there to clean it out and run Sea Foam.

Dropped off the car this morning.....

Just got a call from the service guy (seems like a really nice guy) and he said that they are going to preform the MSP16 recall and that they are going to go ahead and do a series of compression tests. He said they need to do it at hi ambient temperatures (now) and also when its cold (tomorrow morning) so they are keeping it over night.

I'll give you guys an update tomorrow after I hear back from him.

Dropped off the car this morning.....

Just got a call from the service guy (seems like a really nice guy) and he said that they are going to preform the MSP16 recall and that they are going to go ahead and do a series of compression tests. He said they need to do it at hi ambient temperatures (now) and also when its cold (tomorrow morning) so they are keeping it over night.

I'll give you guys an update tomorrow after I hear back from him.

somehow i forgot to actually type anything in my previous post other then pasting the DTC info, my apologies.

I was going to say based on your symptoms you should definitely decarb and see if anything improves.

"Loss of power while accelerating. Stalls (especially when it is really hot out), rough idling at times and today while accelerating on highway a loud really weird rattling between 4500-6500 rpms."

In general those symptoms can be caused by severe carbon buildup or a gradual loss of engine compression which has finally reached it's drivability threshold. Rattling noise could be lots of things, but if it's in the engine possibly a chipped seal.

Important question, how long does it take to start your car with the motor hot? Like say you drive around for an hour, stop for 5 minutes and then try to start the car? Does it seem flooded slightly or does it take longer to start then when cold?

Keep me updated on what the dealer finds i have a few thoughts in my head.

kevin.

somehow i forgot to actually type anything in my previous post other then pasting the DTC info, my apologies.

I was going to say based on your symptoms you should definitely decarb and see if anything improves.



In general those symptoms can be caused by severe carbon buildup or a gradual loss of engine compression which has finally reached it's drivability threshold. Rattling noise could be lots of things, but if it's in the engine possibly a chipped seal.

Important question, how long does it take to start your car with the motor hot? Like say you drive around for an hour, stop for 5 minutes and then try to start the car? Does it seem flooded slightly or does it take longer to start then when cold?

Keep me updated on what the dealer finds i have a few thoughts in my head.

kevin.

Car starts right up in the morning...

During a hot start it feels a little sluggish when starting. Of course when it stalls... then it doesnt start again. I have to sit there for about 15 mins, try a few times and it eventually starts again. When it does... its very weak and I have to rev it a lot so it doesnt stall again... even while driving.

Dealer should be calling me in the morning.. so I'll let you know what they find.

I just fixed the similar problem of mine. Replaced the fuel pump. Another friend of mine did that too. My symptom: Engine stalled only when it is hot. Free rev is ok. But when change gear from the 6th (about 60mph) to 4th, it will stall. On hotter temperature, even cruising with 40mph, it will stall too. When it stalled, difficult to get it started again. Wait about 10-15 minutes, then it will be alright. Drive it gently within 3k rpm and it will not stall again for some distance.

I just fixed the similar problem of mine. Replaced the fuel pump. Another friend of mine did that too. My symptom: Engine stalled only when it is hot. Free rev is ok. But when change gear from the 6th (about 60mph) to 4th, it will stall. On hotter temperature, even cruising with 40mph, it will stall too. When it stalled, difficult to get it started again. Wait about 10-15 minutes, then it will be alright. Drive it gently within 3k rpm and it will not stall again for some distance.

hmmm... some of your symptoms sound similar, but not too sure.

I''m still waiting to hear back from the dealership about the compression tests... etc.

Car starts right up in the morning...

During a hot start it feels a little sluggish when starting. Of course when it stalls... then it doesnt start again. I have to sit there for about 15 mins, try a few times and it eventually starts again. When it does... its very weak and I have to rev it a lot so it doesnt stall again... even while driving.

Dealer should be calling me in the morning.. so I'll let you know what they find.

yea as csl stated above you definitely have a problem being caused by your motor heating up. The simplest problem would be the fuel pump overheating causing it to fail once it gets hot from pumping, the worst case scenario is compression.

Considering how you said it's very difficult to start after it stalls that makes me lean a little more towards fuel pump overheating, but there are still possibilities.

Before your car stalls are there also symptoms? does the car gradually begin to bog more and more until finally it putters and eventually dies, or is the stalling more sudden and less gradual?

kevin.

Hmmm...

I want to say that the car has symptoms before it dies. Like I said above, in the mornings it doesn't have any stalling issues... however it doesnt feel like its giving me its full power, even after the car is warmed up. Then, for example I'll be at school for a few hours during the mid day... then when I drive home I start to feel the issues. Not completely always, but most of the times lately. I get no power on high way... and if I exit and let it... it'll stall. I usually have to save it by revving. When it does stall I usually have to try at least a few times and/or wait about 10-15 minutes for it to start up again. Only once did it start right back up.... all others it took a while. Sometimes I pull over because I think its about to stall, and just rev the engine while parked so it doesnt die. After a few minutes I am able to get going again... but with a very weak throttle response and idle.

yo clmantis I live in san antonio too, I had a cavalier that had similar symptoms and it was cause of the fuel pump. But another thing that cause the same symptoms on it was the EGR valve. I dont know if our cars have this valve but it stood for Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. What it did was let exhaust gas back into the cylinders to regulate the rpms. The problem was that after a while with all the carbon build up from the exhaust it would stay open a bit and let constant flow of exhaust back into the engine causing it to lose power and stall sometimes. All I did to fix this was just take it off and use some carbon cleaner to clean it up and scrub all the carbon build up off and it fixed the problem. You might want to look into changing fuel filters too, doesn't hurt. If anything keep me posted. Im usually here in San
Anto on the weekends except for this one since its easter and all.

Update:

Well the Mazda Tech called me today. He said that they ran some compression tests and that the car is indeed loosing compression. He said that the next step is that he needs to call Mazda to ask what they want him to do, but unfortunately Mazda is closed until Monday because of Easter. I asked about a loaner car, but he said he couldn't approve a loaner until Mazda ok'd the repair under warranty.

So... im stuck with no car for the entire weekend (I work weekends; im a bartender)... so that's inconvenient! Oh well...

Well, its confirmed...

NEW ENGINE

The tech who was helping me last week has been in the hospital this week so it was still unclear as to what was going on at the dealer. I stopped in today for an update from another service guy and he pulled up my information and assured me that they will be replacing the engine.

He said the new engine should be in on Tuesday of next week and it would be a ready a few days after. Hope all turns out all right.

Just got my car back today. The tech said there is no break in period for the new engine (is there??) so I redlined it a bit and there is definately a difference as far as power goes.

Is there anything I need to know regarding this new engine? And, what warranty does it hold? I have 79500 miles... so does that mean the engine only has 20k miles on warranty?

Thanks!

Just got my car back today. The tech said there is no break in period for the new engine (is there??) so I redlined it a bit and there is definately a difference as far as power goes.

Is there anything I need to know regarding this new engine? And, what warranty does it hold? I have 79500 miles... so does that mean the engine only has 20k miles on warranty?

Thanks!

key's to "break in"

- constantly vary the engine load (high rpm, low rpm, switch gears frequently, try to avoid bumper-to-bumper traffic situations)
- allow full warm-up and cool-off periods of at least 3-5 minutes
- no cruising
- oil change at 3k or before for at least the first 3
- i'd rec. going with either 5w20 or 10w30 for the first 2 oil changes during break in, but thats more "old routines die hard" no factual evidence
- monitor fluid levels obv.

as i said somewhere else:

" your motor is like a dog, you want to get it around and socialize it with everything and anything that it will see in the future"

or something like that.

I'd personally also rec. at least a .25oz:1gal of premix if you dont plan on premixing down the road, if you will be premixing start with and stay with at least around .5oz:1gal. Remember, tc-w3.

kevin.

this has been an extremely helpful thread.

i've posted with this problem multiple times on here and i haven't had luck with a dealer. everyone here is great and they know what they are talking about, thankfully because i don't.

i have the exact same symptoms as you and also the same driving condition. with an additional few problems that probably don't have anything to do with it. I'm actually going to print off this thread and take it to the dealer with my car. and say hey i have all of these symptoms also (i told them that the first time too but they didn't do anything to help me, just charged me a lot).

anyway thanks to everyone who posted on here and also original poster (sorry i didn't look at your username) for being so detailed on everything. i'm sure it is going to help me soon.

this has been an extremely helpful thread.

i've posted with this problem multiple times on here and i haven't had luck with a dealer. everyone here is great and they know what they are talking about, thankfully because i don't.

i have the exact same symptoms as you and also the same driving condition. with an additional few problems that probably don't have anything to do with it. I'm actually going to print off this thread and take it to the dealer with my car. and say hey i have all of these symptoms also (i told them that the first time too but they didn't do anything to help me, just charged me a lot).

anyway thanks to everyone who posted on here and also original poster (sorry i didn't look at your username) for being so detailed on everything. i'm sure it is going to help me soon.

Not a problem... I too am thankful to all those with knowledge for their help. Hopefully this new engine runs strong and I dont have any further issues. I am not sure how much help printing this thread will be for you but I wish you the best of luck at the dealer.

In my opinion, you just have to roll the dice... take it in and have them check the compression. The guys at my dealer checked it several times and in different conditions but luckily it was worth it and everything was covered under warranty (100k). If it isnt the compression, then I would check all those other suggestions offered by teknics and others.

... if you will be premixing start with and stay with at least around .5oz:1gal. Remember, tc-w3.

kevin.

Interesting, so you're recommending 8oz with the MOP enabled. I've been using 4oz. of Idemitsu but have thought about bumping it up after reading Swoope's posts. If you're recommending this too then I probably should.

well i really need something to take in there and shove in their faces. i'm 19 years old and they look at me like i am a 19 year old who knows nothing about his car or the way that they are going to sweet talk their way around warranty work.

the first time when i took the car in, i picked it up and looked at the invoice and the "issues with the car" section on it wasn't even close to what i told them. multiple times. so i think i need to find a different dealer but the one i take it to is the closest one to me, 100 miles away.

Interesting, so you're recommending 8oz with the MOP enabled. I've been using 4oz. of Idemitsu but have thought about bumping it up after reading Swoope's posts. If you're recommending this too then I probably should.

that, again, is wholly personal opinion. i still go by tried and true methods for older 13b's considering the rx8's new omp isn't really that improved.

if there's data specific to rx8's concerning premix levels, i encourage you to put more credit towards that in this situation.

kevin.

ok so wait, my car is an 04 with 75k miles on it and doing the exact same thing when it gets hot outside (90) you took yours to the dealer to get looked at and they replaced the engine completely under warranty? up to 100k miles?

ok so wait, my car is an 04 with 75k miles on it and doing the exact same thing when it gets hot outside (90) you took yours to the dealer to get looked at and they replaced the engine completely under warranty? up to 100k miles?

Yes.

The reason they replaced the engine was because it was loosing compression. Read over the many threads dealing with the symptoms you feel you car is having. Sometimes its as easy as a fuel pump, or plugs/wires/coils or bigger like my case for instance.

After you've read up... and if you feel like this may be the same for you... then take it to the dealer and tell them you are loosing power. The worst that could happen is it is not loosing compression and they charge you for a compression test.

I'm happy with my result because I havent felt this much power behind my car in a looooong time. I guess you slowly start getting used to a weaker and weaker engine and not notice how big of a difference it really is.

g'luck!

Yes.

The reason they replaced the engine was because it was loosing compression. Read over the many threads dealing with the symptoms you feel you car is having. Sometimes its as easy as a fuel pump, or plugs/wires/coils or bigger like my case for instance.

After you've read up... and if you feel like this may be the same for you... then take it to the dealer and tell them you are loosing power. The worst that could happen is it is not loosing compression and they charge you for a compression test.

I'm happy with my result because I havent felt this much power behind my car in a looooong time. I guess you slowly start getting used to a weaker and weaker engine and not notice how big of a difference it really is.

g'luck!

i love feeling the difference in a customers car after a motor swap, sometimes its remarkably different in so many ways.

kevin.

i love feeling the difference in a customers car after a motor swap, sometimes its remarkably different in so many ways.

kevin.


yup... I couldnt be happier.

Althought... I my coolant light comes on at high rev's but I'll just check my coolant level and top it off with water (that ok?)

Oh, and this might just be in my head but I did get a tad bit of a slow start twice yesterday. Hmm... I hope its not a bad battery again. I just replaced it at dealer less than a year ago.

yup... I couldnt be happier.

Althought... I my coolant light comes on at high rev's but I'll just check my coolant level and top it off with water (that ok?)

Oh, and this might just be in my head but I did get a tad bit of a slow start twice yesterday. Hmm... I hope its not a bad battery again. I just replaced it at dealer less than a year ago.

rotaries are notoriously difficult to get all the air out of the coolant system, prolly just a bubble.

as for slow start, may be battery, unless its barely slower in which case it probably just feels slower.

kevin.

loss of power, rough idle (if it doesnt stall first) takes forever to crank up... I'm glad i read this post this was insanely helpful with my problem. im taking my car into the dealership in a week to get a compression test... the only mod i have on my car is a CAI, and i cant possibly see how that could be the cause of all of this... does anyone know if this will void a recall/warrenty for my car? i really dont think it would but anyone who HAS had this problm happen to them b4, with basic mods (exhaust, CAI etc.) did this void your recall/warrenty? i hope someone reposts to this soon cuz i dont want to take it there with the cold air intake on it if it will. if anything i will spend the hour or 2 it takes me to get the stock airbox back on b4 i take it in, id just like to see if people have had work approved under a recall or warrenty with any modifications in regaurds to this issue...

loss of power, rough idle (if it doesnt stall first) takes forever to crank up... I'm glad i read this post this was insanely helpful with my problem. im taking my car into the dealership in a week to get a compression test... the only mod i have on my car is a CAI, and i cant possibly see how that could be the cause of all of this... does anyone know if this will void a recall/warrenty for my car? i really dont think it would but anyone who HAS had this problm happen to them b4, with basic mods (exhaust, CAI etc.) did this void your recall/warrenty? i hope someone reposts to this soon cuz i dont want to take it there with the cold air intake on it if it will. if anything i will spend the hour or 2 it takes me to get the stock airbox back on b4 i take it in, id just like to see if people have had work approved under a recall or warrenty with any modifications in regaurds to this issue...

my 3 off the top of my head selections: carbon, tb, engine. this is considering all other supporting systems (ignition, fuel delivery, maf, bla bla) are good. CAI might draw some tight faces at the dealer but generally they shouldnt give your grief, if they do give you grief rest assured they will eventually agree a CAI couldn't cause the failure (assuming the same as above).

kevin.

yup... I couldnt be happier.

Althought... I my coolant light comes on at high rev's but I'll just check my coolant level and top it off with water (that ok?)

Oh, and this might just be in my head but I did get a tad bit of a slow start twice yesterday. Hmm... I hope its not a bad battery again. I just replaced it at dealer less than a year ago.

Just came accross this thread now, seems like i have had the same problem and ultimately the same solution - new engine under warranty :) Had pretty much the same symptoms myself but got new sparks, coils, cat, modified starter (covered 70% by mazda) on the way to doing a compression test which then led to new engine. Car running like a dream now and the modified mazda starter makes all the difference. Aparently my car sounds like a spaceship now when she springs to life. If you haven't got the modified starter then get it, you could probably get it done under warranty - the US one is much better than europe, we only get new engines after 4 years on a good will gesture...


loss of power, rough idle (if it doesnt stall first) takes forever to crank up... I'm glad i read this post this was insanely helpful with my problem. im taking my car into the dealership in a week to get a compression test... the only mod i have on my car is a CAI, and i cant possibly see how that could be the cause of all of this... does anyone know if this will void a recall/warrenty for my car? i really dont think it would but anyone who HAS had this problm happen to them b4, with basic mods (exhaust, CAI etc.) did this void your recall/warrenty? i hope someone reposts to this soon cuz i dont want to take it there with the cold air intake on it if it will. if anything i will spend the hour or 2 it takes me to get the stock airbox back on b4 i take it in, id just like to see if people have had work approved under a recall or warrenty with any modifications in regaurds to this issue...

No mods on my car fellow nada surf fan i'm afraid

yeah I just got my car back from the dealership today it turns out it was just the ignition coils... apparently 3 of 4 were shot, so even with the CAI the parts and labor were covered under warrenty. Hopefully this fixes this problem and doesnt just cover it for a few weeks... The car runs great though, no CEL or any other warning lights for that matter, and the car responds so much better...

yeah I just got my car back from the dealership today it turns out it was just the ignition coils... apparently 3 of 4 were shot, so even with the CAI the parts and labor were covered under warrenty. Hopefully this fixes this problem and doesnt just cover it for a few weeks... The car runs great though, no CEL or any other warning lights for that matter, and the car responds so much better...

hmmm... did they replace the plugs or wires too? you are lucky to still be under warranty.

no i bought a new set myself, and my car is already under an extended warrenty... so im pretty happy about that. the total cost for just replacing 4 ignition coils was 560, labor and all in which i just had to pay 35