Hi everyone.

This will be my thread that will show a little bit of my life and my project RX8 Street Time Attack car. The car must have full interior and must pass smog, has to have a cat, and must be registered. The car is basically stock and this thread will show the build of my car as things are added.

I am going to try out with the rookie races first and see how I compare in real life vs. me thinking I'm a bad ass.....lol j/k

So anyways, here is a photo of a FD T04R turbo kit I built for a guy in the UK. This turbo is good for 700HP.

More photos to follow about my RX8 project car.

Video 4-25-09 Its a video of me driving across the SF Bay Area bridges here in California.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUJov_hP6FU

video 5-2-09 Going to moms house and saw this crazy lady trying to hijack a bus!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUcZn9ijU4U

video 5-27-09 Going for a drive on Calaveras and I came up on a Yamaha R1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWc7VtX_5jQ

2 part video 5-29-09 !!!!!!!Here is a 2 part video of me on calaveras touge solo style. You can see the full length of the road in these 2 parts.

1st half. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPgML6EEmJE
2nd half. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AF0QaPFu9hU

Attempting to drift, looks more like power slides....lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NbBFtrmXNk

NEW VIDEO, Attempting to drfit the Jeep Liberty. It was raining so no chance of tipping over.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na1607Icbjc

Ben

135049

135053

hah, nice pic on the wall. waiting for pics of the 8.

I had to look at that again, I guess my wife does look like a picture on the wall...hahahaha

OK,

So as far as suspension goes, Tein-H tech with Progress Anti-sway bars. I have actually downsized to some 17x7.5 Volk TE-37's.

I went with the Tein-H so that I can get around town, over speed-bump, driveways, to obtain a firmer ride and still lower the center of gravity on the car.

I went with the Progress anti-sway bars because they are some of the thickest bars around. They have three holes on each side so that you can adjust the firmness. I have it in the middle on the front and the last one on the back. This was the best bang for the buck because I got less body roll and it gave more predictability on the cars behavior.

I picked up a set of 17x7.5 to reduce un-sprung weight and to allow me to run a thicker sidewall for more cornering predictability. I now have 235/45/17 on the car and the car is extremely neutral in the corners. I constantly had the back end stepping out and causing the DSC to kick in.

What I have noticed with the new set-up of these three upgrades is less body roll, better predictability and DSC kick in on when I really need it to. On a track day at Thunder Hill I was able to get the cars back out just enough to tell that the DSC was not limiting cornering speed at high speed (above 70mph). At braking (from around 90mph) the car was straight and true. That back was solid at did not want to step out as much at corner entry.

I am running Falken 912's if anyone was wondering. These tires take an amazing amount of abuse and suit my driving style on the track with the cars current power. The factory brakes are more than enough for a stock powered car. But I can tell that they will need to be upgraded to support constant braking from 100mph and above.

I have a K&N intake; I did not notice any gains.

The exhaust is the Rotary Extreme dual cat back. This exhaust does not gain or lose power from idle to 6k, but on the track when your 6k and up this exhaust makes a difference. Both sides are 2" diameter but give you overall 4" diameter. With the small piping the exhaust velocity stays high but since there are two pipes there is enough volume to allow the exhaust to exit with ease. Yes it is a bit loud, but it’s a good loud like a Harley.

I have an R-Magic replica carbon fiber hood, which is heaver then a stock hood, but it allows the heat and air pressure to escape from the engine bay.

Next week’s install will be an install of my new Hymee Enhanced RX-8 Short Shifter and my Hymee Pro-Tuner Software.

The whole reason for getting the short shifter was to allow me to install a higher shaft on the shifter. This will allow me to transition between the steering wheel and shifter faster. With the shorter throw and the longer handle I will be around stock throw again, but with better accuracy.

Next post will show these mods.

Ben

Hey everyone, some of you might not like it, but it feels great for me on the track. With the short shifter and the extension piece, the throw is the same as stock but feels better.

Here is my BHR coil kit installed, and yes the MSD wires do fit in the stock wire holder. They work flawlessly. More responsive in the mid-range and pulls smooth all the way to redline.

Looking good! Things are coming together nicely.

Thanks Easy_E1

I'll post pics when I get the Eaton TVS supercharger core. It should arrive mid-April.

I wont be able to get the kit done this year I think, I have a few FD owners waiting on me finishing the new v-mount set-up so that's gonna take priority.

Ben

What kind of times are you getting at T-Hill? I just went on the 3rd and might be going on May 1st with NCRC. My fast times were around 2:18-2:20's, (no by-pass) and I was shifting at 7-8K RPM's because I am still breaking in my reman motor.

I dont know, I did not have a transponder at thunder hill. I'll have to go when they are offering a track day again.

I dont know, I did not have a transponder at thunder hill. I'll have to go when they are offering a track day again.

I dont have a transponder either, I just use my wrist watch. Check out www.ncracing.org there prices are the best.

OMG, dude, Highway8, thanks for that link!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ben

www.ncracing.org

OMG, dude, Highway8, thanks for that link!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ben

www.ncracing.org

I have been trying to keep a list of Nor cal/SF Bay Area track events. Check out the thread http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=153317

I had to look at that again, I guess my wife does look like a picture on the wall...hahahaha

wheres her legs? :Eyecrazy:

The turbo is her legs, man can she suck and blow....HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I'll post pics when I get the Eaton TVS supercharger core. It should arrive mid-April.

Very nice! Which model are you using?

Its the R1320, the new design on the zr1 corvette.

Looking good Benjamz, keep us up to date!

Ben, can you please give me a hint on how long is the shifter extension? That's something i've been looking for for ages!
Thank you ;)

It's a 4 inch extension. I designed it to how I like it. Other people have tried it. It works great for me. CNC'd aluminum. I have have it made in SS too.

Pm with serious infos like the shipped price to italy now :)

OK everyone, Here is my Eaton TVS s/c I orderd. This is the same design on the new ZR1 corvette. I suspect I will not have the kit done until summer next year at the earliest.
1. I am in no rush.
2. I have more important projects.

Enjoy the photos, Yes, I will have to relocate some stuff in the engine bay....lol

More Eaton pics on the engine.....kinda

A little video with me turning the blades, your can hear my roomates talking about eggs in the background......lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hpS4ZGHAjs

good luck!

HOLY CRAP!

Scribed :D:

The cool thing about this project is I pretty much have everything planned out. And the best thing is that alot of the stuff I'm making for this kit can be used for an N/A or a turbo RX8.

But first I have to finish some RX7 stuff first. :P

:banghead:

oh well...worth the wait :D:

lol, thanks man. Thats the downside of having a business. Using the money for personal use vrs using the money to make stuff that has a better chance of selling, (realistically)

Anyways, Im shooting for the 4.5k to 5k area with your choice of Hymee or Cobb for tunning.
You can make more power, but everyone please remember I am only targeting 300 whp and will be looking on how to get more torque, like 220 to 240wtq. I want to make a decent kit that you can beat the shit out of on 15 minute canyon runs and for 20 minute practice seasons and time attack events. Drag racing only last seconds, hard to see the reliability and durability in a kit. I wanna see stuff go out after constant abuse so I can see where things need to be addressed.

I will be using this kit for my time attack project car so I should be able to prove to myself that its good to go before I offer the kit to the public.

There will be alot of stuff that will be relocated, but everything will be a bolt on affair.

Please just wait to see the finished project, It may not be flawsy like Hymees, (God I love his kit), and I am in no way trying to compete with anyone, I just have a little bit different ideas in my set-up. There are already some slammin cool azzizle kits out there.

But I just would like to make my own. You will never succed in anything, unless you try.

Ben
Rotary Extreme

^well put

Honestly, i would love to have an FI kit that i could beat the crap out of and still produce ~250whp than something that could produce 350hp but have to watch it when tracking or canyon running.

Best of luck.

p.s.-a nice price tag wouldn't hurt either ;) heh

I believe 5k target is fair. I do not want to say what it all includes until its done. I want to see how the N/A parts work first before I include them in the kit. If someone has already done some relocating of stuff on their car, they will get a discount because they will not need my parts. Well, I gotta finish this rx7 vmount set-up, Catch you guys later.

Man, I was going to my mom's house today and saw this old asian lady trying to get on a bus. She was standing in front of it preventing the bus from leaving her. I had to turn off the camera when the cops came just to be safe. Its hella funny though. Video in OP.

any pics of your "shift extender"

New video added on me chasing down a 998cc Yamaha R1

Yeah I saw it, it's pretty damn nice :) Good job, and btw, wtf was that? Loose gravel or something?

Actually, look closer, there are two times he almost looses it.

I was trying not to make him look bad in the video.

The first time he almost hits the bikers on one turn, the second time his brakes lock up and I had plenty of shoulder so I just went beside him so I did not have to slam on my brakes and risk hitting him.

So, hes faster out of the turns, but I'm quicker braking into the turns and on the sweepers and the transitions, I am faster then him by a bit overall.

And I am adding a 2 part video of a solo night run on the first thread.

Ben

That makes sense :) Good job nonetheless.

Thanks, I believe the fastest time is by my friend in a sentra, I'm around high 11 minute range, he is high 10 minute range. Once I switch from the falken 912 to the 615 I should shave about 30 seconds off the bat. More practice I should be around where he is at. Once my S/C kit is done I'll ditch the 17x7.5's and go for 17x9's and slap on some 265 or 275 wide tires. The goal is to get it under 10 minutes so I can put it all on youtube in one shot.

Hopefully buy the end of next year I'll be there. This road is friggin perfect to polish your skills and to get to know your car. It really prepares you for time attack / togue racing.

Just to let you guys know, The bracket that holds the S/C on the engine, the relocation bracket for the alternator and tooth style pully are on the drawing board. But its a little over 2k to make to first prototype brackets. Soooo, that is why this project is on hold. Like I said, I have to finish some FD stuff.

But the kit will have everything you need to be track ready.

sweeeeet

Well, looking at everything for a tuner kit would be about 5k to 6k. The tuner kit will have the supercharger and vmount kit and all supporting upgrades to make it fit. This will not include fuel injectors, Cobb AP and BHR coils. If you want all the bells and whistles for a full bolt on track ready with a tuned Cobb and upgraded full its a bit more. It looks like the fully loaded kit will be about 8k+ or so but heres what youd get, compare it to other kits that are in the same price range. Also please keep in mind that this kit is being devloped for tyrack use and will be tested on the tyrack with feed back from a professional driver. Professional meaning an actual signed and paid Falken driver. He will test the kit and how it responds for drift and track use.

1. supercharger
2. fuel pump upgrade
3. larger injectors <---using the automatic injectors, it'll be enough for what I am targeting. If not the auto's, I will be going through KGParts to enlarge the factory ones. Looking into the return fuel rail that KGParts offers for the RX8 for added benifits.
4. hybrid itb set-up for this kit
5. oil "filler" neck relocation
6. alternator re-location
7. battery re-location with mini-battery
8. new washer fluid resivior
9. V-mount set-up. Garret intercooler core, looking into the radiator core thats used on BHR's radiator. The v-mount radiator is not bolt-on to factory location, it will only work with the v-mount set-up. If you want to run a front mount you will have to fab your own front mount and piping and you will need to get the BHR radiator upgrade for factory location.

I hope to have the prototype kit done and in testing by summer of next year.

Also I have a nice big brake upgrade that I'm putting on my car soon (in like 2 months) lol, that I made from over the counter OEM stuff. I just need the cnc guy to make the adapter brackets. It uses 13.8 rotors and dual piston calipers. Also I have to machine the rotors for clearnce on the hub. Once it's done, and people like that, I can offer it for 1k or less.

Also I made some nice front progress anti sway bar brackets to replace the weak ones that bend due to them being off centered when installed. Also I dont like the fact that you have to overlap other bolts to center them. My prototypes are mild steel and really tuff. The ones I can make for other people are SS. I have two guys that I am making some for and as soon as I get the SS ones I'll post pics here. But here are some pics of mine on my car.

Here is the thread to why I made these brackets.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=176182

It just keeps getting better all the time. I can't wait. :icon_tup:

Thanks man, I appriciate it. It will take a while, but... It's taking a while for the right reasons.

Wow great stuff! As time goes on I've become more interested in a supercharger setup so I'll be looking forward to updates!

There are alot of nice bolt-on s/c kits out there. But since the new tvs unit came out, I had to have that. Only time will tell. But I'm really dwelling on how the hybrid ITB set-up will work on the n/a application. I need to make sure it works and test it so I know it'll be a proven part that is in the kit. The way the Eaton will sit on the engine has me relocating a bunch of stuff.

I will also be running a toothed pulley for the s/c.

Prototyping is expensive, but when your projects works, the feeling of success in priceless.

ss bracket picture, 55 lower 48 states, 65 everywhere else

I'm in a really good 2-500 vicodin mood right now. I need some qualudes...lol

I know you guys are like "where the f did that come from" but it's my thread...lol

Looking good! Can't wait to install them. Is the metal the same thickness as the original bracket?

Yes, the metal is the same thickness. SS is alot stronger then those original brackets. Belive me, these things will not bend. I did want to go thicker but the fabricator said it was not needed for this application and since it's SS. I trust him because all he does is work with metal.

Soooooo....

With random grinding here and there, I finally lost 1st/reverse. The car has 32.300 miles on it. I have put 11k miles on it and its an 04. I am a firm believer that this transmission does not like drag launches. I have done 6 total. It was the sixth one that it happened.

Well I hope the extended warrantee pays off, I just signed an 1,160 teardown and inspect bill, which will be covered if they find mechanical failure. Mechanical meaning not abused.

I put my factory hood, spoiler, shifter and exhaust back on. My God is this thing quite...lol

I hope for the best...:scared:

Quiet sir.. it;s Quiet :)

Anyway good job. But I do not recommend putting on bigger tires in the back than the front. That's due to the near 50/50 weight distribution this car has. It will upset the balance of the car and make the handling worse. Well, it would only be alright if you are putting atleast more than 240whp... than I understand :)

Bigger tires? I had some run down falken 912's. 235/45/17. It was probably the wheel hop. I'm really surprised how much abuse these tires have taken. 12k miles canyon driving, track events. I guess because I rotate them I got so much life. I love non-directional GT tires!!!!

They are epic :)

OK, so.....

My aftermarket warrantee is trying to put a used/reconditioned transmission in my car. So I'm happy for that, a used transmission for free is better then a broken one.

The dealer said I had a broken bearing housing??? Two broken teeth on my pressure plate???? and a spring popped off my clutch. 1st and reverse were garbage and 6th gear was in the bottom of the tranny pan??? wtf.

Of my 6 drag launches, I have never dropped the clutch with the rpm above 4k, and I dont even dropped it, I do a slight feather then as soon as I feel motion then I drop it so that way there is already tension applied and its not just being slammed from a stop.

Well I have to pay for a new factory clutch, everything else is covered.

I'll know more soon on what ever least expensive way they go.

My transmission always felt a little funny when I bought the car, I wonder what was stressed inside before I took it to its breaking point...lol

Talked to BHR, great input. Getting a ACT HDSS, 9.8lb flywheel, ACT counter weight and a BHR modified Throw Out Bearing.

The used tranny the dealer found has 26k miles on it. Cool, mine had 32k at time of failure.

Canit wait to see how this feels.

I went to the dealer to inspect the parts.

My pressure plate was fine, I have no idea why they told me it had two broken Teeth, or what ever you call those things that the TOB goes against.

My flywheel only needs to be re-surfaced.

My clutch did not have a broken or popped out spring. They were just loose.

The teeth for the syncro on first gear were all worn from the shaft beeing off when the rear bearing retainer broke.

Well sorry for the quality of the photo is bad, cell phone pics. You get the idea.

the OE clutch discs are sh-t on this car. Fist the hub springs go loose, then the hub eventually comes apart.

If you pull the trans always put a new clutch disc and clutch throw out bearing in it if using OE parts.

Talked to BHR, great input. Getting a ACT HDSS, 9.8lb flywheel, ACT counter weight and a BHR modified Throw Out Bearing.

Thx, Ben. Why did we select those parts, as opposed to other stuff, again? ;)

Deffinitly no more drag launches for me. Besides the lowest gear I'll ever be in is 2nd on the track, also in touge fun. So as long as I don't drive like a stupid a-hole, I should be fine.

I think I'll use my clutch as a tamborine now that I have a bunch of loose springs...lol

I will make that part that failed out of stainless steel before I hit the track with the s/c kit. But for test and dyno tune, I feel safe with the stock tranny.

Thanks for the schematic Team.

Thanks for the recommendation and the parts Mr. BHR.

I should mention that the ACT parts came in at 38 lbs (shipping weight) for the preasure plate, clutch, flywheel and counter weight.

The stock clutch, preasure plate and flywheel weigh in at 35 lbs or so.

The act flywheel is 9.8 lbs but it will have the counter weight to add to the unsprung weight.

The stock flywheel is 17 to 18 lbs.

I think I need a new scale. Anyways, I'm relieved to have this mod out of the way, installed for free too... Thanks warauntee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got a 2009 Mazda 3 hatch as a rental...love it.

Had the car back for 2 weeks. I can feel a difference in response above 5k when on and off the throttle. 3rd gear the car accerlerates a hair quicker, was able to pace a 350z up to top of 3rd. I don't know if thats normal or not.

Way easier to rev for down shifts.

It has a very smooth feel and the transmission shifts so much smoother now. I have no more grinding issues.

I have not and will not do any drag style launches and no more 1 - 2 hard shifting. No need for it anyways because the lowest gear I ever go into is 2nd on the track.

Had a complete change of driving style and the car feels so much better.

I took out the shift extender to try out the short thorw. I think the shift extender was a phase...lol

I'll post again when I have the brake upgrade done.

OK, so everyone who is interested in my exhaust, I am soooooooooooo happy to find out that Racing Beat will be selling their headr flange. So That is what Im going to be using, only I will modify the siamese port for my application.

Ben

Here is a simular vmount set-up I will be using for my s/c kit. I just finished this one for Calvin Wans FD.

So an update,

1. shifter extension when used with short shifter works great for crusing around. On the track and in touge, it felt un-natural. I am back to just my short shifter.

2. 32mm front anti-sway bar brackets. They fixed the problem, felt great but they sheard at the bend after some very hard canyon runs. The mild steel took longer to break because it was more bendable then SS. Thats why some SS ones sheard before mine. Going with thicker material and will weld at the bend.

Another reason why we need to test stuff before well offer it for sale.


The s/c kit will be going to Sacremento for fitment of the s/c and bracket design early next year.

The dual catback is also getting redesigned to be more user friendly. Will include a repackable burns ss muffler.

Everything from here on out will be made for the track. I now am working from a shop and have access to alot of stuff I did not before.

Sorry I have not done anything new, but better late then never. Nice to see all you guys here.

Gotta get back to RX7 stuff.

new video added, trying to drift, looks like powerslides....lol

where is said video?

--edit: nvm, see you updated original post with it. on city streets, that video probably wont be up for long. not a smart move drifting on city roads, just like street racing.

Well, I never broke the speed limit. No other parties are involved. Wet roads are slippery and I was not trying to pass anybody. I don't see how I broke any laws....lol...wait, maybe in the parking lot... my bad.

Not a good idea to learn how to drift on the street. And very bad idea to do it while in traffic with other vehicles next to you.

Never said it was a good idea, but gotta aquire this skill because it will be needed under certain circumstances at the track. Don't know if it was noticed that I was always in the outside lane and "if" I had spun out no one else would be hit. Also it's not like I'm racing around trying to initiate the drift before the turn in traffic, that would be a bad idea. The situation is controlled and the attempts were just simple throttle initiated slides. Really not too much danger involved in what I was doing. Surprised I havent got these wonderful responses for the other "bad idea" videos in my thread...lol

Peace and chicken grease.

More to come....

New video added on first page. Attempting to drift the Jeep Liberty. It was raining so they Liberty rotated very nicely.

So, an update on my S/C kit.

I have been looking at the overall cost and ease of installation on the kit and I have made some changes to help keep the price down.

My project time attack car will get the hybrid itb's and the vmount set-up.

Here is what the street kit will get.

1. Modified upper intake manifold to allow fitment of the s/c and tb in new location.
2. Talked with BHR for plug in place for extension harness for TB. ( I hate splicing )
3. Alternator relocation brackets.
4. Upgraded injectors via the automatic RX8 injectors.
5. BHR fuel pump upgrade.
6. Custom intake for s/c
7. The pulley for the s/c will also be a toothed belt.
8. Front mount intercooler with silicone hoses and t-bolt clamps.

With these new changes the kit is down about 2k from the what ever the kit would have come out to . The hybrid ITB and vmount set-up is more of a race set-up.

So I will get on this as soon as I'm done with my new project, FC vmounts.

P.S. I have a big brake kit coming out. Front and rear rotor, front calipers, front and rear adapter brackets for the calipers to clear the larger diameter rotors, ss lines. The new front calipers will either be a backside 2 piston or a 4 piston caliper. You reuse your rear caliper. This kit will work with factory RX8 wheels.

My dual exhaust will be coming out this year too.

Sorry about the slacking, I have been working on RX7 stuff.

I will be selling my RX8 after everything is developed. I will be buying a salvaged or theft recovery 09 base model to build the time attack rx8 from. I want to start with the better modified oil system and newer transmission. Also I do not have to ruin a perfectly good 04 winning blue to do this...lol

My car has 36500 miles on it and it was first sold in oct 03.

It will have the act Chromalloy flywheel and act clutch, tein h tech springs, front/rear progress anti sway bars, afe short shift, rotary extreme cat back exhaust. The transmission has 12k miles on it. Replaced with used one under warranty.

I am going to get an auto FD to cruise around so my wife can enjoy it too. Also an auto because I just picked up a level 10 auto fd tranny.

So all looks good for me to attend sevenstock this year with everything.

Ben

down $2k, but down from what? Might I suggest instead of just using a set of auto injecotrs that you have all the injecotrs flow matched and the p2 injectors modified to 700cc, so you would have 290/380/700. That will get you enough fuel for 400 crank hp, in stead of 350 top if you just add the 480 %njecotrs. Plus having all 6 flow matched will help with the tunning.

Lastly, what brake kit are you getting? I think I know which one, because you said larger rear rotors and rear caliper brackets. That's the only kit I would get and I would only get it to remove unsprung weight in the front while not effecting brake bias.

down $2k, but down from what? Might I suggest instead of just using a set of auto injecotrs that you have all the injecotrs flow matched and the p2 injectors modified to 700cc, so you would have 290/380/700. That will get you enough fuel for 400 crank hp, in stead of 350 top if you just add the 480 %njecotrs. Plus having all 6 flow matched will help with the tunning.

Lastly, what brake kit are you getting? I think I know which one, because you said larger rear rotors and rear caliper brackets. That's the only kit I would get and I would only get it to remove unsprung weight in the front while not effecting brake bias.

It looks like I orginally wanted to do the kit for around 5k but everything looked like it would be more like 7k. I am making it more friendly and less complicated to get it out there.

That would be good, but that is not a plug and play. I would have to buy those injectors and have them modified to give them with the kit. Also I can not ask my customers to be sending out their injectors. 350 crank will be ok. I am looking for power under the curve not just peak power. Also I do not want to make to much power because I want to be able to beat on this kit without the set-up being stressed out.

I am making my brake kit from various oem parts. I will also have my own caliper adapters. I will be making my own brakes lines and they will be certified with tags from they place that can leaglly make them.

Ben

It looks like I orginally wanted to do the kit for around 5k but everything looked like it would be more like 7k. I am making it more friendly and less complicated to get it out there.

That would be good, but that is not a plug and play. I would have to buy those injectors and have them modified to give them with the kit. Also I can not ask my customers to be sending out their injectors. 350 crank will be ok. I am looking for power under the curve not just peak power. Also I do not want to make to much power because I want to be able to beat on this kit without the set-up being stressed out.

I am making my brake kit from various oem parts. I will also have my own caliper adapters. I will be making my own brakes lines and they will be certified with tags from they place that can leaglly make them.

Ben

5K is a friendly price, and it sounds like you are including all the required items.

for the injecotrs, take a look at kgparts.com. They should have a fairly fast turn around time and the service is affordable. You would only need 1 or 2 sets of injectors on hand and then do a core exchange with your customers. I just think tunning would be better, easier and safer with the extra size and flow matched injecotrs. Plus any set of used high or even mid milage injectors should get serviced before going FI. Cheep insurance.

Have you seen the brake kits from tce performance?

I was going to give new automatic injectors, no used parts for my kit. From a customer point of view, they would not be able to easily return their car back to stock if they modified their own injectors. The auto injectors satisfys me end and most customers end. The way you mention it is great, but you have to buy another set of injectors when you go back to stock.

I like the TCE kit, looks good, my kit should be around 1500 for everything. front and rear, but we keep the rear caliper.

I was going to give new automatic injectors, no used parts for my kit. From a customer point of view, they would not be able to easily return their car back to stock if they modified their own injectors. The auto injectors satisfys me end and most customers end. The way you mention it is great, but you have to buy another set of injectors when you go back to stock.

I like the TCE kit, looks good, my kit should be around 1500 for everything. front and rear, but we keep the rear caliper.

If you run 290/380/700 with the p2 being modified stock injectors, it looks stock and will run on a stock tune. Pig rich once the P2's kick in, but still. Well your customers will have to buy the 480 injectors, so the difference is buy now or buy latter if they happen to go back to stock. Plus they are still not flow matched and who knows what the P1 and secondary injectors are really putting out. You could be running super lean on one rotor and never know it until your motor blows.

The tce kit also uses the stock rear calipers. You only get brackets and rotors for the rear. A lower price would be nice.

If you run 290/380/700 with the p2 being modified stock injectors, it looks stock and will run on a stock tune. Pig rich once the P2's kick in, but still. Well your customers will have to buy the 480 injectors, so the difference is buy now or buy latter if they happen to go back to stock. Plus they are still not flow matched and who knows what the P1 and secondary injectors are really putting out. You could be running super lean on one rotor and never know it until your motor blows.

The tce kit also uses the stock rear calipers. You only get brackets and rotors for the rear. A lower price would be nice.


I agree with you on injectors, but my kit will come with new stock auto injectors which will satisfy a decent 280 to 300 whp. This way they still have their stock injectors. I need to make it as easy as possible. The real problem is when I sell to people in other countries who do not have easy access to stuff like we do.

I see my brake upgrade kit costing me around 1200 for all, you would also keep your stock rear calipers.

14" factory cross drilled in front, still looking for the rears. Still need to test fit my 4 piston caliper, if it does not work I will use the same style calipers that the rx8 has but instead of one in the back it will have two. The issue is I need to test fit the caliper with the rotor because the rotor is thicker then the rotor used for the 4 pistion caliper. I am using various parts from different manufactures. But this allows the end user to replace their own parts when they wear out. The only thing that is not oem will be the brackets and lines. I do not that in order to sell brake lines they have to be made by a certified company and they have to have that stamp. So they brake lines I am selling will be legit and not just home made.

Ben

I agree with you on injectors, but my kit will come with new stock auto injectors which will satisfy a decent 280 to 300 whp. This way they still have their stock injectors. I need to make it as easy as possible. The real problem is when I sell to people in other countries who do not have easy access to stuff like we do.

I see my brake upgrade kit costing me around 1200 for all, you would also keep your stock rear calipers.

14" factory cross drilled in front, still looking for the rears. Still need to test fit my 4 piston caliper, if it does not work I will use the same style calipers that the rx8 has but instead of one in the back it will have two. The issue is I need to test fit the caliper with the rotor because the rotor is thicker then the rotor used for the 4 pistion caliper. I am using various parts from different manufactures. But this allows the end user to replace their own parts when they wear out. The only thing that is not oem will be the brackets and lines. I do not that in order to sell brake lines they have to be made by a certified company and they have to have that stamp. So they brake lines I am selling will be legit and not just home made.

Ben

I dont want to keep going around and around about the injectors, but here is the problem with your 290/380/480 idea. You dont know what your customers 290 and 380 injectors are really putting out. If one of the injectors is running super lean, when they go to get it tunned, they think that the AFR is good, but one bank might be rich and the other lean. Less power and a good way to blow the motor. Also, even brand new from the factory, the injectors are not always very balanced. those 480 injectors could flow 465 and 495. again, one bank might end up lean. You dont want you customer to blame you for a blown motor when it was his injectors or those new injectors that caused the problem. So my suggestion is send your customer a set of serviced and flow matched 290 and 380 injectors along with either a modified and flow matched set of 700 cc injectors or a set of new flow matched 480 injectors. But my emphasis is on having all the injectors serviced and flow matched.

Interested to see what your final brake set up looks like.

I was going to give them 4 new 480's. Simular to what Hymee has done for dyno tunning and it worked well for the application. I like your idea, I think its the best way to go. It is what I will do for my car eventually. But tunning is up to the customer. I will leave it up to the customer if they want to take the fuel issue further with flow matching the injectors. I will only recommend what you are saying.

The front rotors are cross drilled from the factory. The 4 piston caliper has the cast bolt flange at the edge of the caliper for more stability. (where you will bolt the caliper to the bracket)
The rear, many many options, it is hard to beat a factory11.87 rear rotor. It may not even be cost effective to upgrade the rotor from that when the caliper itself will still be stock. The caliper will not be able to take advantage of the new rotor. I mean like FULL advantage. It seems like a waste of money and unfair to feed people some shit just to sell a rear upgrade when the factory set-up is good already. If anything it would be better to keep the rear rotor and work on a modifed caliper that will still allow you to use the e-brake.

Anyways. I can offer somthing very simular to that $ 1800 14" front brake kit for about 1200.

So I have been thinking about the back rotor.

This is what I would like to do.

I would like to provide an additonal caliper. The adapter bracket will allow you to fit two calipers. The stock one will be kept so you can keep your e-brake but it will not have a brake line going to it. The second caliper, a two pistion (one on each side) will have the brake line going to it instead. This will allow us to really use the rear rotor. I am trying to target 1500 or less with everything for front and back.

Again the brake lines will be certified and there will be color choices. The line itself is ss braided, but they can put a colored plastic tube over it when they make it. I have seen blue green and red if I remember correctly.

Sorry I do not have much to show for the RX8 projects yet. I have been busy on RX7 stuff.

Finished updating the FD vmounts, making the same for the FC. This set-up can work for the RX8 also. I have a vmount I need to do on a 20B FD and I have a greddy turbo kit to install on an RX8.

Then I can get back to my damn s/c kit. sorry guys.

See attached pic for our monster vmount with twin 25 row oil coolers attached. The set-up is bolted ont a jig with is a copy of the front end on an FD RX7...lol

Sorry I do not have much to show for the RX8 projects yet. I have been busy on RX7 stuff.

Finished updating the FD vmounts, making the same for the FC. This set-up can work for the RX8 also. I have a vmount I need to do on a 20B FD and I have a greddy turbo kit to install on an RX8.

Then I can get back to my damn s/c kit. sorry guys.

See attached pic for our monster vmount with twin 25 row oil coolers attached. The set-up is bolted ont a jig with is a copy of the front end on an FD RX7...lol

hurry up LOL. ;)

hurry up LOL. ;)

LOL, yeah no kidding huh.

Turbo kit install I did.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=195786

OK, big update on my S/C kit.

Still using the EATON TVS 1320.

I have re-designed how I am going to do the kit for street cars while still allowing the end user to get a kit that can make 300plus whp based on their tuning and fuel injectors.

I had mentioned before that I was going to do a hybrid ITB set-up but this type of set-up will only work best on a full time track car. I will still do it but only for my time attack car in the future.

I wanted to use a toothed belt but at 8k rpm limit (which I will make for the kit, if you want to reset the redline to 9k the bearing load stress is on you) but I am going to go with the ZR1 pulley set-up which has I think a 10 ribbed s/c belt, yes 10 ribbed s/c belt. There will be no slipping with that belt. Also it will be cheaper to use OEM parts from another car.

The ZR1 boost 10.5 psi by the way.

I will set-up the system to over boost to build low end power faster and then bleed the charge air back into the inlet of the S/C to prevent over boosting as rpm rises to get a more usable power band. It will re-circulate from after the water to air I/C to before the S/C which is after the TB. This way it will make power down low like a turbo but not fall off on the top. It will use a charge relief valve which operates differently than a BOV. It is more like having a waste gate on your intake track.

For cooling I have ditched the air to air I/C set-up and will go with a water to air set-up. The water to air I/C will be placed in between the S/C and aluminum LIM. The coolant system will use antifreeze but will have its own reservoir and its own pump. It will not be using the hot engine coolant. I will have twin water coolers; with one in front of each oil cooler. Since the water coolers will have its own tank and the water is only warmed from the S/C this will not be an issue being in front of the oil cooler because... I am also adding fans to the kit to be placed on the back of the oil coolers. These fans will draw fresh air from the front through both cooling systems. Yes I know pettit uses the same style for cooling but thats not why I want to go this way, not because of pettit. The zr1 uses this method for cooling the s/c charge air and has been through shit loads of testing without any cooling issues. Also you can get a more stable tune due to more stable air temps.

In order to deal with the extra load for the electric water pump and the two additional fans I will also be including a higher amp rated alternator. I have to relocate the alternator anyways for the kit so making new brackets to support the new alternator will not be an issue.

Fuel, fuel, fuel.
Calling KGparts on injector upgrades.
I do not recommend staying return less, although it has been proven to work.
In the return less system the FPR is at the pump causing the fuel rail to be the end point of the pressurized system where the injectors are at. This system is easier to make for manufactures and is more cost effective. It does have its benefits, but not the benefits I am looking for.

What I am going to do is convert my car to a return style system because I want my FPR right at the fuel rail to make the injectors the start of the pressurized system. I will use BHR’s pump to feed a reservoir in a loop with an external pump feeding the rail.
This is a proven fuel system that works for the FD RX7 which is a twin turbo rotary from the factory and these cars can run 500whp all day long when tuned right.

See this link if you have questions: http://www.rotaryextreme.com/fuel.html

Ignition will be BHR of course.

Engine management will be Cobb.

One more thing I will try to do, a big try and no guarantee because I do not want to sacrifice performance for it.

I am going to try and get this kit low enough so that the engine cover and factory air box can still be used. I am going to make a lower tray to use the upper part of the factory air box. I also want make it so the air box will be easier to remove.

I know I have dragged my feet on this but I wanted to explore all possibilities to make sure I have a good kit the first time out. We all know first impressions are the ones that last.
Anyways, I will be presenting the dual exhaust, big brake upgrade kit and s/c kit all at the same time.

The question is not will it happen because I can tell you it will. The question is when…lol.

Ben

Well, I do not know if anyone is still following this thread. Yes I am still working on it, but it has been on hold to RX7 stuff. Anyways the main reason for the update.

I heard from MM that cobb is discontinued for the RX8.

No problem.

Since I am tied into the RX7 world, there are many tunners that use the Greddy e-mamge ultimate for tunning the RX7. The S/C kit will now come with the Greddy Emange Ultimate with a base tune for the S/C kit.

Ben