I took my 8 out of winter storage on Friday, got her started right away (first crank on the starter!) Let her warm up, then went out for a cruise.

Took it nice and easy for the first half an hour or so, just to get her going again. Then i hit the 407... after booting it along for a while i took the exit ramp at Bronte Rd. and decided to test the breaks. Full on the breaks till i dropped down to about 30km/h (keep in mind it was late, and absolutely no traffic around me) when all of a sudden under hard breaking almost all of the warning lights come on!!!! I get off the breaks and the lights go out.

The engine ran normally through the whole thing. Then for the rest of the drive everything was normal.

Anybody got any ideas????

Thanks for the help!!

Did it stop/slow down tho? Just keep driving it, go easy on them and in few days try again. No idea haven't heard that one before.

Was it sort of like this but everything went back to normal afterwards?



Anyhow, I was conned into giving a friend a ride to school this morning at 6:30. Car started fine, maybe a few extra cranks before the engine gave in and stopped being stubborn but all was normal.

I was coming back from Oakville on the QEW/403 when the radio volume went down by itself and the battery dash light went on. Me thinking the car should charge it while driving didn't really think much of it. Got to around Appleby or Walkers Line when the center console went dark, radio went off and the TPMS and DSC lights came on. About 30 seconds later the coolant and ABS lights went on. I shut the heater and fan off hoping that I could nurse the damned thing to the Hamilton Mazda dealer about 5 minutes further down the QEW. Just before the 403/QEW split the headlights and will assume taillights, dash and the auto dimming mirror LED died. I decided to stay on the 403 because if the car gave up on the Skyway bridge, I'd be killed by traffic. The power steering and engine light came on about 30 seconds later and lost power steering. Realizing I'm fucked and can't pull over to the side of the highway because the shoulder isn't ploughed I have to wait under the next exit (4 kms) until I could try and save the engine because I'm thinking sooner or later the ECU is going to cut out and something rather expensive is either going to starve or explode.

After a 3.5 hours and 13km walk I got home.

Fuck sakes...

didnt you have some wiring issues a while back? Also, do you really mean almost all the warning lights, or are you exadurating? For example, are we talking like the brake (ebrake) and ABS warning lights and like the DSC and traction lights. or everything, battery, oil, coolant?

The car was running beautifully, and then when i was full on the brakes the battery, coolant, and a couple of other lights (I'll have to take another look at the instrument cluster in the morning to remember which ones) came on. But then when i got off the brakes all warning lights went off.

The whole time this was happening the car was purring like a kitten, nothing wrong with any of the mechanical systems.

And yes i have had electrical issues with my car. The heater control module was replaced under warranty and then there was my DRL issue. That one was finally tracked down to a faulty ground connection in the parking break mechanism underneath a relay switch.

The car was running beautifully, and then when i was full on the brakes the battery, coolant, and a couple of other lights (I'll have to take another look at the instrument cluster in the morning to remember which ones) came on. But then when i got off the brakes all warning lights went off.

The whole time this was happening the car was purring like a kitten, nothing wrong with any of the mechanical systems.

And yes i have had electrical issues with my car. The heater control module was replaced under warranty and then there was my DRL issue. That one was finally tracked down to a faulty ground connection in the parking break mechanism underneath a relay switch.

did you have the clutch in? i could see the bat light coming on if you stalled the engine if you were braking hard in gear and the wheels locked for a second, then you let off the brake and the engine will start running because the wheels rolling again will start the motor running. just a thought.

She was in neutral... and like i had said the car was, and staid in perfect running condition the whole time.

I don't really get it?

weird....wait til this crappy rain clears up and try it again.

Maybe under hard braking, You have some loose electrical connection somewhere in the engine bay, and the force of inertia was moving the connections apart?

Remember, there's significant G-forces in deceleration; way more than acceleration.

Yeah that's kinda what i was thinking too, but it only did it that one time, and I really threw the car around (in a safe way) after that to try to reproduce the glitch...

A simple explanation if the car was in gear would be the rear wheels locked and caused the engine to shut off momentarily. That would set off all your light and when you got off the brakes the engine would run and everything would be normal again.

Very true, the problem with that is that i wasn't in gear when i hit the breaks.

Well then I give up! (lol)

haha al, nice try. thats what i was getting at with my best guess.

Perhaps over the winter your battery voltage decreased (or the battery was disconnected) and the car forgot the 'learned' fuel trims. It takes several drivecycles to relearn.

After a battery disconnect, I had a similar problem - stalled while coming to a stop. Restarted just fine, and never came back.

Perhaps over the winter your battery voltage decreased (or the battery was disconnected) and the car forgot the 'learned' fuel trims. It takes several drivecycles to relearn.

After a battery disconnect, I had a similar problem - stalled while coming to a stop. Restarted just fine, and never came back.

read more carefully. he said the engine runs fine. the only problem was once under hard braking a bunch of warning lights came on.

I can read fine, thanks....

I'm only putting out a thought: The engine computer thought it was stalling - when suddenly the load dropped off when he pushed in the clutch. The engine figured it out, the engine stayed running, and the problem has not reoccurred.

Or, you could trace every wire in the CAN Bus system and ECU. lol.

check your battery connections, mine were loose and caused the dash lights to go nuts occasionally

worth a shot, but i tightened them myself only 45 min earlier.

but that's not all of my problems, looks like i picked up a nail during that drive...... now i've got a flat nearly new KDW on my car...ARGH!!!!!!!

And the saga continues... Twice in the last week the car has stalled out completely on the off ramp, once on the QEW and today on the 407. Taking her in to Oakville Mazda for her post hibernation oil change on Saturday and they are going to look at what is going on.

... and no i didn't leave it in gear when i came to a stop, the car was in neutral both times.

Crossing fingers it's nothing serious, but the car still has 110K of warranty on it so i should be good :uhh:

hehehehehe... rough idle?

yeah, a little bit...... coils?..... ARGH.....

1) did you clean your MAF?
2) did you check your air filter element?
3) did you examine your intake accordians for any holes, broken screens, oddities?

MAF is clean, checked it last summer and the car has been in storage all winter,

Air filter is clean, and i have an HKS intake on the car, so no accordions to get punctured.

Title changed (from the ever-popular WTF?) to reflect subject.

S

LOL... Thanks Stealth

The WTF was stemming from my frustration!!

ur battery connection might be tight, but are they clean? maybe try cleaning them, and see if the problem goes away. also check connection to alturnator,

What he said.

batt is clean, who puts a battery in with dirty terminals??? its going in tomorrow for a check up, but dont think its the alternator because the car would be draining the battery if it wasnt working properly, and mine stays fully charged....

I think what dmak ment was that battery terminals can corrode after awhile... so this can be an issue if you drive the car year round. If I recall correctly you just bought the car over the winter and thusly would have had the battery out and would have inspected it then.

Rev,

Very close, bought the car a year and a half ago, but she was in storage all winter, just put the batt back in 2 weeks ago. :)

Same diff then :)

Go Optima.

Once you go Optima, you never go back!

Go Optima.

Once you go Optima, you never go back!

well...you might go back and return it for one that you haven't killed, but after that its smooth sailing. lol

Even with the cover on... batteries will generate acid crystals at the terminals which fall off and accumulate on the surface of the battery mixed in with dust/salt...

If you open your battery cover, you should reveal a battery with a lot of particles and crap on top. Just sweep that stuff off once a year.

Guy's i really dont think its the battery.....

but well find out tomorrow when the dealer runs the codes (if there are any)

Well looks like i was wrong... they ran the codes and it turns out that the battery was borderline low on voltage.

So time for a new battery, went for the stock option from the dealer because the original battery was still partially covered under the original warranty. only $45 installed!

Well see if that fixes the problem, looks like I'm eating crow on this one.

Well my electrical gremlin is back!!!!! Slowing down on the ramp from the 407 to the 401 (going from about 130 to 105) and all of a sudden the car has gone into limp mode, all the warning lights are on, and NO OIL PRESSURE!!! WTF!!!! (and yes the engine was still running).

Pulled over looked for an oil leak, didnt find anything, tried starting her up, and everything is back to normal.

I'm begining to think that i have a serious set of loose wires somewhere and it's f'ing up the computer...

It's back off to the hospital for her tomorrow night (my poor car:crying:)