Hehehehe

Customer Rides (http://scarboromazdagarage.com/Customer%20Rides.html)

http://scarboromazdagarage.com/images/DSC_4962.JPG

Oh my, is this a new site you started? scarboromazdagarage?

I see Eddie's car!

She's beautiful!

Al's creating a new site and wanted pics of our cars.... so I sent him like 8345.

Just look at Al's face ahahah

:lol:

wow what color is that?

Its Stormy Blue Mica :)

Btw Al, do you carry Racing Beat products? Or any group buy for the products? eg, the Ram Air Duct...

Thanks!

Yeah, that'd be good to know. I'm thinking about the Racing Beat springs now.

Al the EVO-R is a replica!

EVO-R CF front clip is the Burnout type I...

And also, what do you think about the Racing Beat springs too? For all weather driving...vs the ProKit

Racing Beat = 0.5" all around, similar to the H-techs
Eibach = 1.2" Front/ 0.8" Rear

countdown for Eibach....... mid-April :) :) :)

Racing Beat = 0.5" all around, similar to the H-techs
Eibach = 1.2" Front/ 0.8" Rear

countdown for Eibach....... mid-April :) :) :)

Yeah..Andrew you driving all winter too...

0.5 is ok i think...i dont want to work for City of Toronto without pay (snowplow)!

btw Al, this is the picture of the Burnout kit Type 1

http://f.imagehost.org/0203/lip-comparison.jpg

Yes, all year round... that's why I've decided to put in the stock-intake possibly for good. I don't need my CAI filter another 1.2" closer to the ground.

Just look at today, it's exactly those SAME CONDITIONS that got in trouble last time. The night before was raining heavily hovering around 1C and 0C. This morning, it was -1, -2, with more winds and rain/slush. It's the PERFECT RECIPE for another layer of ice around the CAI at speeds.

So I took pre-emptive measures... drove to work via local roads instead so I can keep speeds below 70 kph (thus reducing windchill effect on the filter). Also by driving local, I can gaurantee I use only up to 3500 rpm in shifting to reduce air-suction for the engine. If I break down on the side, I could wait it out on a side street and go from there.

Thankfully, all these measures proved worthwhile as I turned out alright.

Man asking Andrew to shift below 3,500rpm is like asking Theif to stop talking about penix and coxk ... its a torture! lol

Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?

Racing beats on stock shocks... that I'm not sure. I know Kevin (Agent008) has Racing beat springs, but I don't know what shocks he's running on. He's the guy running the 18 x 7.5 Enkei rims purposely because they're lower weight. You can pm him for his opinion and feel so far.

As far as running Eibachs or Racing beat on stock shocks, Al did have a good point when I talked to him. Our cars are fairly new, so our stock shocks do have at least another 40,000 to 50,000 km before changing them. Though people say when you change springs you should change shocks too (makes logical and physical sense), if you do change them, what are you going to do with the stock shocks? You can't really sell them cause who would buy them? So they'll end up sitting there as an unused asset, and that's a waste of money in itself.

Being a daily driver that we both are, we wouldn't be able to appreciate the difference as much as someone that tracks their cars all the time; when you are running stock shocks.

From a financial point of view... Let's use some approximate values.

Changing just springs now --> $400 springs + $180 install + $100 alignment afterwards, then maybe 2 - 3 years later, another $180 install + $100 alignment + $500 new shocks. Grand total over 4 years = $1460.
Immediate cost = $680
Future cost = $780

Changing both now --> $400 springs + $180 install + $100 alignment + $500 new shocks. Grand total over 4 years = $1180
Immediate cost = $1180.
Future cost = $0.

From the time-value of money; money today is worth more than money tomorrow, so by going the first route, you spend $500 LESS and you get to fully utilize an asset (stock shocks) instead of wasting it and letting it sit. The $500 you have today, if you are really good with money, perhaps you can turn that into $780 over the next 2 - 3 years via stocks, gambling, or whatever, so when you need that money down the road for the inevitable shock change, it's there!

It really depends on what you want. If you want premium performance up front right now, then you're going to change the shocks at the same time as the springs. For me, I'm going with the more economical route :)

Man asking Andrew to shift below 3,500rpm is like asking Theif to stop talking about penix and coxk ... its a torture! lol

Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?



Wahahaha.... THAT IS SO TRUE ON BOTH ACCOUNTS!!!!!:lol:

We are a Racing Beat dealer. Just keep in mind you can double the price on the Racing Beat website by the time the parts get here.

heh... just installed the ram air duct last night... wWwaAaaAAARRrRRRRrrR

heh... just installed the ram air duct last night... wWwaAaaAAARRrRRRRrrR

with the stock intake or wha?

I think he got the K&N filter replacement and thats it...

Hows the sound level increase inside the cockpit man?

Man asking Andrew to shift below 3,500rpm is like asking Theif to stop talking about penix and coxk ... its a torture! lol

Yeah Andrew I think we have similar requirements for the mods....Dunno if racing beat ones will match the stock shocks tho? you got any research results?

I already told you. I will not give you any BUTTSEX.

with the stock intake or wha?

yeah... stock box. It's kinda weird. The VFAD has the tube that pulls through the front bumper to the stockbox.. and the ram air stops just at the front of the chasis... so you've got like a 3" gap between the ram and the openning in the stock box. I just left it like that for now... figure I'll fab something to seal the system off.

But.. yeah... she screams now.

yeah... stock box. It's kinda weird. The VFAD has the tube that pulls through the front bumper to the stockbox.. and the ram air stops just at the front of the chasis... so you've got like a 3" gap between the ram and the openning in the stock box. I just left it like that for now... figure I'll fab something to seal the system off.

But.. yeah... she screams now.

I took out all of that tubing and what not last summer. Can you send me pics of your set up? My car makes no more noise then it did before.

Did you also take out the whole secondary air duct system?

I took out all of that tubing and what not last summer. Can you send me pics of your set up? My car makes no more noise then it did before.

Did you also take out the whole secondary air duct system?

Pic's of what? Basically I just removed the stock VFAD (tube and all) and replaced it with the RB Ram Air Duct (nothing to see since the front bumper is back on). It has more of an effect then just removing the VFAD as it actively forces the air from front of the car through to the stock box inlet.

Emmm... and what do you mean by secondary air duct system?

Man asking Andrew to shift below 3,500rpm is like asking


Why would you ever want to shift below 3500rpm????

to save gas

to save gas

By an economy car then, not an rx8 :banghead:

why not try and have the best of both worlds?

^ Good in theory but let's face it, the 8 sucks when it comes to gas mileage, no matter how you drive it. That's why I drive it for maximum enjoyment -- and that is above 4k :)

Why would you ever want to shift below 3500rpm????

That's the reason CAI in slush weather = FUBAR Rx8:

Yes, all year round... that's why I've decided to put in the stock-intake possibly for good. I don't need my CAI filter another 1.2" closer to the ground.

Just look at today, it's exactly those SAME CONDITIONS that got in trouble last time. The night before was raining heavily hovering around 1C and 0C. This morning, it was -1, -2, with more winds and rain/slush. It's the PERFECT RECIPE for another layer of ice around the CAI at speeds.

So I took pre-emptive measures... drove to work via local roads instead so I can keep speeds below 70 kph (thus reducing windchill effect on the filter). Also by driving local, I can gaurantee I use only up to 3500 rpm in shifting to reduce air-suction for the engine. If I break down on the side, I could wait it out on a side street and go from there.

Thankfully, all these measures proved worthwhile as I turned out alright.

I know this is really off topic but , I don't understand how this car IS BAD on mpg... isn't 22-25mpg pretty damn good? For a sports car that's GREAT. Also I would rather shift at 4k rpm because you don't have press the pedal as much to gain speed. Just premix and an intake and you will see gains for MPG. BTW, I don't use the 11l/100km system as it just sucks dick and harder to figure out. Still easy either way, I just think it sucks.

Well you can't argue that the mpg sucks for a car with this level of power. I think a lot of people would have an easier time accepting it if the engine made 400hp.

^ Agreed.

RPM's are needed to get at any level of performance out of this car. Below 4k, is just a big yawn...

Careful everyone tomorrow if you have the MS CAI in Toronto...

10 C in the morning, rain rain rain...

and then -10 C by 6pm. So..... you drive to work, your CAI filter is wet, but no problem because it's above zero. You park your car for the day. You get off work, drive off in -10 C.. in less than 2 - 3 minutes, your CAI will be coated in ICE :( :( :(

Didnt we already have a CAI thread?! lol

I'll be sure to look for puddles since I have this horse shoe up my ass. Just wait for my "my car stalled" thread. lol

I'm just trying to be nice and warning the community that's all....

Didnt we already have a CAI thread?! lol


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