Rotarygod and I feel we have determined the most prime route for amplifier power wire in the RX8. I’m attaching images of how we went about it. This is a 4 GA setup running 1000 watts and so far it sounds great. This route is perfect for a 17-foot wiring kit or longer.

If you would like to follow the entire audio build from start to finish, you can visit this thread (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13952) .

eXe

The place we chose is behind the washer fluid reservoir where the steering column would be for European vehicles. I don’t know if the other side could be used for a European car, but I would assume so. The A/C unit is directly on the other side of the firewall, but there is still plenty of room. Just be extra cautious when drilling this hole.

This is a better shot of the target with the hole already started.

The wire must go into the car at a downward angle away from the driver. We had a pull rod inserted in the angle we needed and you can see it in the picture coming down at the firewall.

Here's the finished entry into the engine compartment.

The battery cover had to be notched fairly heavily to handle the tap.

The cap on the battery.

The finished engine compartment. It's hardly noticable.

Routed under the cross-brace...

And up through the seats.

Next was the remote wire. We chose the easy way out here and simply tapped onto the back side of the 12V accessory plug. This plug is switched with the ignition.

There are two sets of wires here. One is for the amp, the other is for my neon kit (see the thread link at the beginning of this thread).

As a side note here, we did try and find any kind of trigger on the stock amplifier. It doesn't appear that there is one. All voltages are constant, so we're assuming that the amp is a signal-sensing one.

(oops)

And finally, we're ready in the trunk. Done.

Is it just how this looks, but did you run the ground for the amp back to the chassis in the trunk, or the Bose ground line?

I would tend to go for the two line approach to bring power and ground together to the trunk. In fact, I've already got some 4-gauge wire ready for this. I just need to find a good time to do it.

When I drill through the firewall, I'd probably also want to use a fairly large size hole, and use a rubber grommet to prevent the wire from chafing on the wire (Since I don't have reinforced braided wire).

Looks very good, That's helpful info for when I wire up my system.

OverLOAD

I've run a power and ground on my competition cars in the past. There is no such thing as overkill but it isn't really needed as long as you get a good ground in the trunk. Pick a good bolt to the chassis. Do not attach ground to the Bose ground or the rear deck. It will be very hard to run both wires exactly as I did since there were spots under the frame rail that one barely fit. You can always drill small holes through them too and use more grommets. I've done that too. Just run the wires near the edge. You don't want to see bulges in the carpet where the wires are run. If you decide to do it, drill 2 holes and use 2 grommets. You'll get a much tighter seal from moisture and it will just look more professional. I don't want to drill any larger than possible.

can someone revive the pics for this thread...I need to do this exact install later today :eek:!

thanks!!!!!!!!

use these for now...pics were lost in server takedown a while back...this was my 'blind' attempt :) worked out pretty well :):

4th and 5th pic.. is that wire going up to the rear deck? where do you bring the wire through to the trunk from?

one run 4 gauge line in the wiring bundle (there is room...just open up those white plastic rectangular holders)...

if you are running two 4 gauge then run the other under the rubber molding of the doorframe...kind of hidden...this allow room for the plastic clips with lock into little metal slits which are located next to the wiring bundles below the inner scuff plate

I'll take some pics with the wiring installed...that is pre install

and I'm running the wire to the trunk :)

I was too lazy to drill a hole in the firewall, I found a nice place to run my two 4 gauge wires though: where the main wiring bundle goes through!!!

On the driver's side, next to the brake master cylinder, there is a large wiring bundle that runs through the firewall, with an even larger rubber grommit.

Up under the dash, you can push this grommit out of it's hole, into the engine compartment.

Then, with a sharp knife, cut a slit along the top of the grommit to allow your power cables to slip through. You want the cut to be high enough that it won't interfere with the main bundle going through there, but not so high that the power cables will chafe on the sharp edge of the firewall.

Then, you can start feeding your cable through (it's really tough it helps if you lubricate the cables with grease or something). Then run the cables behind the fuse panel, and under the door trim piece, behind the back seat, into the trunk.
Once you have all the cable fed through, pop the grommit back into place.

Sorry I don't have a close-up of the firewall area but you get the idea:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/Modwerx/Car%20Audio/IMGA0347.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/Modwerx/Car%20Audio/IMGA0341.jpg

VERY clean...great job bud

what kind of distribution block are you using at the battery? I need something like that since my Optima yellow is not R style

I just used some high quality gold plated ring terminals to connect the power cables to the battery, with the stock blocks. I had some upgraded ones, but it would've been a lot of work to get them to fit since the ring terminals for the stock power hookups were too wide to fit on the new blocks. I had to remove a washer on each battery block to get another ring terminal on there with enough thread to still tighten the nut and not risk stripping the threads.

Rotarygod and I feel we have determined the most prime route for amplifier power wire in the RX8. I’m attaching images of how we went about it. This is a 4 GA setup running 1000 watts and so far it sounds great. This route is perfect for a 17-foot wiring kit or longer.

If you would like to follow the entire audio build from start to finish, you can visit this thread (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13952) .

eXe

eX,

I am inquiring about the thread titled, "DIY: Best Route for Amp Power."
You stated that:
"We chose the easy way out here and simply tapped onto the back side of the 12V accessory plug. This plug is switched with the ignition."
Now, theres a black and a greenish wire back there, which of the two did you tap into??? Also, did the neon kit wiring go to the same connection as the remote wire?
I also cannot access the build thread at the top?

Thanks,

Redmaz8
(evolv chicago)

the green wire is the hot...the black is the ground

so tap the green

I used an easier way thru the firewall - about six inches inboard from where you drilled is a big grommet for the heater tubes.
A slit in the rubber, a coathanger thru it, then pull the wire thru - no drilling.
Don't even need to unbolt the washer bottle!

S

I installed my sub amp and woofer today and I did not hook the remote turn-on to the electrical outlet. BTW, I had the Bose system. I found out on the service manual that there is actually a wire named "amp control". It is a pink/black (P/B) wire (location 1V if you have the service manual) on the plug connecting to the main amp (Bose). It does function like the accessory thou. When the key is switched to ACC, it will have 12 V. The advantage is that it is much closer than the electrical outlet. It worked fine for me so far. Just want to share this with you.

Are you guys all using line-level converters for your installs? I'm assuming that's the only way to do it with OEM stereo, but I don't know that for sure.

And supra- do you have a pic you could post of that wire, or a description of where it's located? I don't have the service manual, but this sounds like a good route to go.

Where has everyone put their remote wire? Did everyone go the rear ACC route or the wire supra was talking about? I'm doing this install in 30 min... please help!

I'm a little late for you zen, but

1) Yes, I'm using a LOC.

2) That wire Supra was talking about is only there on the BOSE system, so it may not apply to you. I have the base stereo, and just wired into the rear ACC wire.

can someone here tell me how i can hood up 2 amps to the factory deck? do we have preouts? whats the deal. i will say that i have not taken out the unit yet but i dont feel like taking it out just to say crap no preouts. what am i going for here? i have 2 600 watt amps for my 2 12 inch subs.

PROBLEM!!!!!! pls help! i removed the washer bottle and drilled a hole not 2 far in to the car, saw i had 2 stick the wie downwards and managed 2 get it right and was happy and excited 2 finish the rest of the wiring but went 2 the shop 2 get a sof drink but was shocked when i was driving to the shop i saw when i pushed my BRAKE pedal the ABS light on the right side guage display came on and the light which shows a car with a slippery wheel mark sign below it on the middle guage display also came on simultaneously. The ABS is also not working! IM CONCERNED!! W.T.F? when i switch the 8 off and start it up again the lights r off but as soon as i touch the brake pedal the same thing happens!

You disconnected the battery. Have you reset the DSC by turning the wheel lock to lock?

Thanx alot. I did'nt disconnect the battery, as it did'nt say it was neccesary in the diy thread i believed there was no problamatic wires behind the fire wall. i've tried what u said with the ignition on, nothing. With the car running, nothing. does anyone know how or a thread explaining how 2 strip behind the glove compartment? aircon unit etc... so i can try c if any thing got damaged. much appreciated.

Thanx alot. I did'nt disconnect the battery, as it did'nt say it was neccesary in the diy thread i believed there was no problamatic wires behind the fire wall. i've tried what u said with the ignition on, nothing. With the car running, nothing. does anyone know how or a thread explaining how 2 strip behind the glove compartment? aircon unit etc... so i can try c if any thing got damaged. much appreciated.


Did you find out what the problem was give us a update.
I will be installing some amps soon and don't want to run into the same problem.
Also did you drill the hole behind the washer bottle like Exentric showed in his Picture or did you drill some where else.


U1cracka

I must have missed this but I can't find it. Where do you connect the Inputs for an amp? ie, the L/F connections.

Did you find out what the problem was give us a update.
I will be installing some amps soon and don't want to run into the same problem.
Also did you drill the hole behind the washer bottle like Exentric showed in his Picture or did you drill some where else.


U1cracka
He's got a right hand drive car. He should have run the wore down the left side of the car.

I installed my sub amp and woofer today and I did not hook the remote turn-on to the electrical outlet. BTW, I had the Bose system. I found out on the service manual that there is actually a wire named "amp control". It is a pink/black (P/B) wire (location 1V if you have the service manual) on the plug connecting to the main amp (Bose). It does function like the accessory thou. When the key is switched to ACC, it will have 12 V. The advantage is that it is much closer than the electrical outlet. It worked fine for me so far. Just want to share this with you.


How do you hook up the Hi-Lo converter? Which wires need to be tapped?

Thanks in advance.

i think the easiest way is to splice a wire into the stock amp in the back thats what i did and i just changed the fuse in the fusebox to 10 amps higher and havent had any problems. the wires are sufficient enough to hold the power so you dont have to worry about a fire or anything. i believe i used a 12 guage wire to splice into the amp power. not that big stupid wire thats overly huge and excessive unless your connecting straight to the battery but yet its still way bigger than what is needed.

and for my remote wire i didnt need one cause i used the speaker line input on my kenwood 1000 watt amp which uses sound sensing to turn the amp on and off so no remote wire needed.

I used an easier way thru the firewall - about six inches inboard from where you drilled is a big grommet for the heater tubes.
A slit in the rubber, a coathanger thru it, then pull the wire thru - no drilling.
Don't even need to unbolt the washer bottle!

S

anyone try it like this?

^+1 I did.

^+1 I did.

pics?

tomorrow in daylight...

can someone here tell me how i can hood up 2 amps to the factory deck? do we have preouts? whats the deal. i will say that i have not taken out the unit yet but i dont feel like taking it out just to say crap no preouts. what am i going for here? i have 2 600 watt amps for my 2 12 inch subs.

did you ever find out how to get the rca wires hooked up to the factory deck? i have it all wired up except for that part. i need your help.

charlie

question.. does the stock unit have rca outputs for an amp or would i need to buy an aftermarket head unit???