I recently picked up a couple oil filters from Mazda, part# b6y1 14 302 9a. They are smaller than the ones that went on my motorcycle! I am sure Mazda has thought this through but is anyone going with a different filter or sticking with OE secondary to warranty issues? Also, the one one the car now is a bit taller than the replacement I have...any ideas?

I am using Baldwin b227's. I used them on the Ferrari and they meet or exceed Mazda's specs. They also have the standpipe due to the inverted filter position.

They are also a nice fire engine red.

they are around $6.00

here's the thread I did on it a couple of weeks ago.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15298

the 8 uses the same filter as the protege.

actually there is another filter I used in the past that seems to work very well. its a bit pricy but it filters to 1/10 of a micron vs. the usual 10-40 microns. in addition it also removes water from the oil something the renesis could use help with. it also helps cool the oil to a small degree.

here is the site.

http://www.trasko-usa.com/

check out the testing section. BTW the size for the 8 is listed as TMR 10ss and the refill is just 10ss.

This is for the mobil 1 line of oil filters:

http://rx8.swankmonkey.com/oil_filter/

Your results may vary, but it works for me!

End result is a M1-110 oil filter.

You know you have envy, as mine is bigger than yours!!

Try this:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=187729

M1-110

Bigger filter may reduce your oil pressure. Which may not always be a good thing and can cause inadequet lubrication to engine.

The stock filter has very good filtering capacity, despite of its size. Also, the bypass valve functions at the factory set pressure. Different oil pressure may cause too much or too little oil being bypassed.

Cool! I'll be the first with a failure because of my filter!

What do you base your info on djant?

Originally posted by djantlive
Bigger filter may reduce your oil pressure. Which may not always be a good thing and can cause inadequet lubrication to engine.

Wrong. Bigger filter = more filter area = lower pressure loss. It's just simple fizzics.

Originally posted by djantlive
Bigger filter may reduce your oil pressure. Which may not always be a good thing and can cause inadequet lubrication to engine.


That sounds backwards. There might be lower pressure between the pump and the filter but the important value is the pressure and flow downstream from the filter, which would seem to be improved, if anything.

The larger filter will take slightly longer to fill though, meaning the engine will run dry for that extra bit of time. I don't have any idea of how long we're talking about or whether that has any real significance.

Is the taller filter any easier to get at with the wrench?

I am not certain how big that filter is, but if it is too big, you can break it off during a bump from hitting the strut tower brace. Supposedly my dealer has already had to replace an engine because of that.

Slavearm

Have you seen how far away the oil filter location is in relation to the strut tower bar?

I'd say that "bump" story has a few holes in it!

No, the new filter is just as hard to get to.

here's a pic that I took of the first oil change:

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=138030

Or just look in this thread:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12455&highlight=oil+change+for+dummies

I noticed the oil filters I have stocked for my FD (Mazda B6Y1-14-302A @ FRAM PH6607) are shorter than the oil filter on the 8. Would It be OK to use the FD size oil filter on my 8 or do I NEED to buy a taller oil filter?
Thanks

I disagree with the larger filter reducing oil pressure comment. There are many RX-7 people that run aftermarket dual oil filters, most of them being race cars. An oil filter is such a small device. Even if you used a filter that was 20% larger than stock, how much more total area is that in terms of actual oil quantity? Not much at all. You'll never notice it. It's kind of like adding a bigger air filter. Your throttle response doesn't get slower from the added area. In fact everything performs better. If the RX-8 filter is larger than the previous rotaries then obviously Mazda learned something new or they wouldn't have done it. In fact this very point could be used again to say that because the RX-8 filter is larger than the RX-7 filter, the RX-8 is less likely to have proper lubrication. Nope!

I once used a tall oil filter on my FD. The clearance was minimal and the tall oil filter was difficult to change.

I use a K&N HP-1004 on my FD, and will probably use them on my FE as well.

The K&N is about 30 percent larger than the stock FD filter, has a 1" nut welded to the top which allows quick install and removal with a socket and extension, an anti-drainback valve, 550 psi static burst pressure, and K&N's flow between 12-16 gpm depending on size.

K&N filters are about $10 each, but I only change the filter every other oil change, or about 2,000 total miles.

BTW Syntrix, very interesting stuff on your site. Thanks!

You guys should just try the taller filter and see the lower PSI on your gauge yourselves. It's not too significant of a drop but it's there. I think the RX8 has an oil pressure gauge right?

If an oil hose has a smaller diameter, the oil pressure would be higher. If a hose has bigger diameter, the pressure is lower. Think of the bigger filter as a bigger diameter hose with more area for the oil to pass through. That's why the pressure is lower.

I hope this makes sense.

I'm not saying don't use the taller filter but if the stock filter is just as good if not better, why bother?

Yeah, why bother!

Think of the hose as the passage to and from the oil filter. Same volume and pressure, just a very slightly larger area to fill.

The advantages are a larger filtering surface.

Originally posted by syntrix


Same volume and pressure, just a very slightly larger area to fill.

The advantages are a larger filtering surface. [/B]


Pressure is directly corrolated to the area. Larger area means lower pressure.

Originally posted by djantlive
Pressure is directly corrolated to the area. Larger area means lower pressure.

In the filter only.

djantlive,

For a given set of operating conditions in the engine, say a constant 4000 rpm and with the oil at the same conditions of density and viscosity, the pressure just downstream of the filter will be the same regardless of whether the filter is stock or larger. The pressure upstream of the filter will be lower for the larger filter. The pressure drop across the filter is lower with the bigger filter.

This will in no way compromise oil flow to the bearings. Also, if the filter bypass setting for the filters is the same, you could run longer with the larger filter before the pressure drop rises to the point that the bypass valve opens allowing unfiltered oil to flow to the bearings.

I'm OK with the size of the stock filter, but a larger filter with equal particle retention and an adequate bypass valve setting will provide longer effective service life.

Hope this helps

yrotory

Hmm, i read thru most of the post here on oil changes and planning to do mine soon, its approachin 1000miles soon.

Some things i didnt notice mention (maybe not important):

1. Do we need to warmup the engine 1st b4 oil change, or do it in the cold is better? Or doesnt matter? I suspect doesnt matter since I used to drive my car to the dealer for the oil change, and the engine is already warm.

2. I remember in the piston engines i used to oil change on, i filled up the oil then i started the engine and let it run for 10 seconds and then turn it off and let it sit for a while (5mins) - I saw someone mention this but they let it run for 45 seconds instead then turn it off (i'm not 100% sure what this was for, it was just recommended to me).
a. Is this required for rotaries?
b. Would this cause a potential flooding problem?
c. How long should we let the engine run b4 shutting off?

Thanks...

Ideally you want warm (not hot) oil. Cold oil will take forever to empty and hot can burn you or melt plastic.

I use a topside oil extractor. It's a six quart pump that extracts oil out of the dipstick spout. Do that and there's no need to get under the car.
________
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PUR NGR

You still might want to to a conventional oil change once and a while to get the crap from the bottom of the pan out.

Originally posted by DViOuS
2. I remember in the piston engines i used to oil change on, i filled up the oil then i started the engine and let it run for 10 seconds and then turn it off and let it sit for a while (5mins) - I saw someone mention this but they let it run for 45 seconds instead then turn it off (i'm not 100% sure what this was for, it was just recommended to me).
a. Is this required for rotaries?
b. Would this cause a potential flooding problem?
c. How long should we let the engine run b4 shutting off?

Thanks...

The reason is to get the oil to run through the oil filter, which holds a few tenths of a quart. Then recheck for proper filling.

And yes, always make sure the engine is warm when you turn it off!

Just changed my oil 2 days ago, and this is the sequence I used:

Engine was cold, ouside temp ~ 50 Deg F.
Without jacking up the car, I remove the drain plug.
Next I remove & change the filter.
By then the oil is sufficiently drained to a very small trickle, so plug is re-tightened.

I don't worry about warming the oil up first, unless you are changing in real cold temperatures.

20 minutes from start to finish.

FWIW, I checked closely the used oil for any signs of water, since I noticed some sludge build-up on the dipstick. No indications of ANY water in the oil pan.

Hey thanks alot for the info guys... much appreciated