Ok, so I thought I knew about spinning the piston back in, etc., but - while admittedly I'm not using the proper little ratchet tool (my son took it to college - thanks!), both rear pistons are spinning freely using channel-lock pliers. But they're not going back into the bore. Is there something I'm missing here? I even tried spinning one with a little pressure from a c-clamp and that did nothing either. Seems like I've turned them each a hundred times - what's the trick?!

Thanks much for any help

Purchase the little cube tool from an auto parts. Open M/C cap. PUSH and turn piston simultaneously.

open the bleeder screw....wind the piston back into the caliper. It is important that it backs all the way in for the caliper to work properly.

Watch you don't spill the brake fluid on any painted surface.

Thanks guys, guess I'll grab another of the tools because it seems like you need three hands to hold everything and turn it back in with channel locks and put some pressure on it as well.

Is there a greater advantage to opening the bleeder at the caliper vs. the MC cap?

I'm back at it tomorrow - and thanks again.

Yes. Open it at the caliper and make sure to push in hard. If you're doing it right you will notice it back in pretty quickly.

Opening the bleeder screw as dannobre recommended is more effective.

Yes. Open it at the caliper and make sure to push in hard. If you're doing it right you will notice it back in pretty quickly.

I have one stubborn rear piston which summons all my strength to get it to rotate back in- even with the bleeder screw open.

FWIW, a tool set like this is worth its price.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/310WHcmgfWL._SL500_AA250_.jpg

They're available on Amazon and at several online retailers.


http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Wind-Back-Tool/dp/B000IB40L6/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1226191960&sr=8-2

I have one stubborn rear piston which summons all my strength to get it to rotate back in- even with the bleeder screw open.

Your not alone there...

How are the caliper seals? The rebuild kits are cheap..and it's an easy job

It must be backed all the way in? Isn't backed up enough just to fit over the brake pads enough? (assuming the pin on the pad lines up with caliper slot)

It must be backed all the way in? Isn't backed up enough just to fit over the brake pads enough? (assuming the pin on the pad lines up with caliper slot)


Yup...I had problems with them not retracting properly with new pads...and that was what i figured out was the problem. When I rebuilt the calipers I had a good look at the mechanism for the emergency brake...and that's what you need to do so it doesn't bid

go to autozone... put 40 dollars down and get it back when you return it

How can you tell if they are not retracting properly? I recently did a brake job and now I am a bit worried.

They will get hot when you drive :) Likely turn blue......

If you have access to an IR temp gun..check the temps..they should be the same or lower than the fronts

FWIW, a tool set like this is worth its price.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/310WHcmgfWL._SL500_AA250_.jpg

They're available on Amazon and at several online retailers.


http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Wind-Back-Tool/dp/B000IB40L6/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1226191960&sr=8-2

This kit will definitely do the trick. Free rental at your local Auto Zone.

Thanks everyone - indeed it was a piece of cake with the right tool (and opening the bleeder valve). Amazing how much time the right tool saves vs. fighting with something using what may be in the tool box....

Thanks again

noob here. thanks for the thread. this came in handy. My right rear piston was problematic, but the good info here helped me get the job done..Thanks

I used the tool from autozone to push my driver's side rear piston back in. It seems to be all the way in, but I'm not sure because it is not completely flush with the caliper. Should it be? Also, there is a hole in the boot. Would this cause a creaking noise that I'm hearing when I apply my brakes? It seems like when I apply the brakes I hear a creaking sound every time the wheels go around. Any ideas?

*Bump*

Anyone?

Also, how much should it run for an entire driver's side, rear caliper?

I used the tool from autozone to push my driver's side rear piston back in. It seems to be all the way in, but I'm not sure because it is not completely flush with the caliper. Should it be? Also, there is a hole in the boot. Would this cause a creaking noise that I'm hearing when I apply my brakes? It seems like when I apply the brakes I hear a creaking sound every time the wheels go around. Any ideas?
The hole in the dust boot shouldn't cause a noise, it will allow dust to get on the piston which may shorten its life, its not an emergency though. If the piston retracted with the tool OK, and you can get a new set of pads in there, its probably all the way in. The creaking may have been the wear indicators rubbing on the rotor, check them and see if they were , or were close to, contacting the rotor.

Thanks for the reply, Jim. All 4 of my pads are fairly new and still have plenty of life left. I used the caliper tool because it seemed as though the caliper piston was seized which I thought may have been causing the noise. After pushing the piston back in, it is still making the noise when I brake. And now I am noticing it a little bit when not even applying the brakes. It is much louder when I apply the brakes, but still happens like I said before, whenever the tires go around. So I'm not sure if the piston may be stuck again? Was thinking about just buying a whole new caliper.

What brake pads did you put on? And is it just coming from one wheel?

I didn't change the pads so I'm actually not sure what pads they are. They were on the car when I purchased it last May. And I'm not positive if it is just coming from one wheel, but it sounds like it.

My brakes still work fine, but it's just really annoying and embarassing when pulling up anywhere in a nice car, and then I hit the brakes and it sounds like shit. :cussing:

Ummmm... I have a DIY Rear Brake Pads.... :suspect: You could of just looked at that.....

That is your brake pad wear indicator. It is rubbing on your rotor. either your brakes need to be changed (but you said they didn't) or the indicator is bent which is causing it to prematurely rub on the rotor. Your brakes will work fine when this starts, cause it is just a warning. When the noise stops (atleast from what I learned the hard way) your brake pads are over worn and will grind into your disks. Did you check your inner rear pads when checking the pads wear life? Those are the two that ended up digging into my rear discs (both sides) cause I ignored the warning until it was too late and the grinding noise of the pads digging into your disks is the worste noise you will hear in your entire life!! It can make a grown man cry!

Nobody cares about your DIY Zumn!!!!! :p: jk :yelrotflm

^:Kill1: Ill find you! :suspect:

Good luck getting that on a plane to get here!! :lol:


And I would say your 8 could make it here quick, but, you parted it out..... :icon_no2:

MMW, there's already an excellent rear brake DIY (thanks to Zumn). No need to reinvent the wheel (pun intended). And the caliper toolset pictured above is well worth the relatively small investment (Harbor Freight as well).

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=172382&highlight=brake+DIY

edit: I didn't have to relieve the caliper bleeders, but did of course loosen the master cylinder reservoir cover. Every time you open the bleeders there's the possibility of introducing air into the lines, which must then be bled - unless of course you have Russell speedbleeders as I now do. ;)

The pads are not worn down though, thats the thing. I've changed brake pads before and these do not need to be changed. There is still at good quarter of an inch (if not more) of pad left on them. And the noise I am hearing is not a constant squeal either. It is a creak or scraping noise when the wheels go around. The faster the wheels are going, the faster the noise (if that makes any sense).

So the wheel goes around...I hear the creak noise for a half a second, then it doesnt do it again until the wheel goes around again. Sorry if that is confusing. Trying to explain what I am hearing.

The little metal plates on the back of the pads do seem a bit loose and/or rusted. Would this have anything to do with it?

Dumb question, but did you torque down all the lug nuts? I didnt do this once, and it did that when I was moving the car.

FWIW, I just changed my rear pads, they had very rusty & dirty shims/plates like you are mentioning. I dusted them off a bit before using them, but havnt had any noise issues since i put on the pads

Good luck getting that on a plane to get here!! :lol:


And I would say your 8 could make it here quick, but, you parted it out..... :icon_no2:

:dunno: I can just borrow JEDI;s :yesnod:

:suspect:

Dumb question, but did you torque down all the lug nuts? I didnt do this once, and it did that when I was moving the car.

FWIW, I just changed my rear pads, they had very rusty & dirty shims/plates like you are mentioning. I dusted them off a bit before using them, but havnt had any noise issues since i put on the pads

Yeah, I torqued all the lugs with a torque wrench to 106 ft lbs or so.

Yeah, I torqued all the lugs with a torque wrench to 106 ft lbs or so.

Hellz, all ya'll gots to do's is pute a lil arse inta it an ya'll be aight. BillyBob would neva steir ya'll wronge!