As the ECU used on the Japanese RX8 model appears to run significantly more horsepower than the US, Oz and European models...........is it possible to fit them to our RX8s.

If so........does anyone know how we go about purchasing them?!

um are u sure? i dont know but do u exactly what the numbers are

I think its around the 220 to 230 hp mark????!!!!

I don't think you want to use the Japanese ECM. First off we (if you are in the US) use 91 and the Japanese have a higher octane. The ECMs are programmed for JDM RX-8s. Also, we have more emmissions equipment on our cars. Correct me if I'm wrong; I think we have more sensors, additional cats, charcoal canister (?)... in my in-line 6 2JZ-GTE based car I had an exhaust gas regulator... not to sure if the Renesis has one too... I think going Canzoomer's route is the most cost efficient route if you want addiotional horses.

Only you poor suckers in CA get 91 octane.

The rest of us can get 93-94 octane which is the same as J-spec high test. Heck, I can even go and get 100 octane SunocoGT and pump it right into my cars!

I'm guessing that Canzoomers stage 1 setup is going to be practically identical to the stock JDM setup...

Originally posted by Psylence
Only you poor suckers in CA get 91 octane.

The rest of us can get 93-94 octane which is the same as J-spec high test. Heck, I can even go and get 100 octane SunocoGT and pump it right into my cars!

I'm guessing that Canzoomers stage 1 setup is going to be practically identical to the stock JDM setup...

and were are you??, that gets 93-94 octane ???

here in western europe, we only have 95 and 98 octane... :confused:

US octane ratings are different than other countries. Europe's 95 RON is about equivalent to 91 octane in the states. 98 is about 93 in the states.

-Mr. Wigggles

you poor souls i can pump 110 octane straight into my tank but i don't really feal like paying 60 bucks to fill up my car

um i thought rx-8s with manual were ...238hp?????what am i missing here?

OK. Here I go again for the benefit of this thread.

Japan uses RON to rate the octane in their fuel.
In the US, we use the AKI which is an average of the RON and the signifcantly lower MON number.
100 RON gas is roughly equivalent to 91 octane AKI gas.

Other than the ECU mapping, the emissions control equipment on Jap-spec and North American-spec vehicles is identical.

Thanks Maniac, so does that mean we could run the Japanese model ECU if we could get our hands on one?!

Originally posted by emack
Thanks Maniac, so does that mean we could run the Japanese model ECU if we could get our hands on one?!

Canzoomer (a user here on the the forum who has his own section) sells them for $750.
You will have to have your immobilizer system programmed for your keys and door openers.

Canzoomer's Stage 1 which would mimic the Japanese spec is $500, unless he changed the price.

Originally posted by brothervoodoo
Canzoomer's Stage 1 which would mimic the Japanese spec is $500, unless he changed the price.

No.
He actually sells the real Jap-Spec ECU as well.
PM him.

okay thanks

IF the JDM ECU program runs leaner to make more power, does it mean the car will get better milage for a given throttle use?

dude.................holy god its 4 years old

A JDM-spec ECU will not work in US cars

damn i remember this thread but not that avatar from jeff

http://www.rx8club.com/image.php?u=4665&dateline=1185310276

i wonder if that's a recent upgrade?

wow, you take the award for digging up an old thread!

dude.................holy god its 4 years old

he is the new you..

weird is it not? search his posts... really.

beers :beer:

not to mention japan uses ps not hp..even though it's like 2-3 hp difference or something like that..

I have the JDM and i use 100 octane.
Taken from wikipedia:
"The RX-8 is available in various models in different markets around the world. Standard models include:

* 6-speed manual "High Power" with an output of between 170 kW (231 hp) and 177 kW (237 hp) and a 9,000 rpm redline. Japanese models produce 184 kW (255 hp).
* 5-speed manual "Standard Power" tuned to 141 kW (192 hp) with the redline reduced to 7,500 rpm.
* 4-speed automatic tuned to 141 kW (189 hp) in some markets, while the U.S. automatic is stated to deliver 197 SAE net hp (158 kW).
* 6-speed automatic (available in the U.S. market as of 2006) developing 212 hp (170 kW) with a redline at 7,500 rpm."

I will have to dyno to tell you if the readings for the Jap versions are correct...

'tard alert, both for the OP and the grave digger

Jap models also come with 275 by the way

Well, I don't care much for the 5-10 HP difference, it's all up on the 8500rpm anyway. I'm looking for ways to eliminate my CAT and decrease fuel consumption.
I know Mazada made the cars run rich to reduce emission but the CAT is getting so hot that my drink holder literally goes up about 120'F or so. I know the dynamic damper shield has been replaced on my car. If it's that hot I don't want the CAT.
But taking out CAT will screw up the ECU so I have to re-program it to run not to lean not to rich. Who can do that? I don't want a replacement ECU, just to reprogram mine.

Well, I don't care much for the 5-10 HP difference, it's all up on the 8500rpm anyway. I'm looking for ways to eliminate my CAT and decrease fuel consumption.
I know Mazada made the cars run rich to reduce emission but the CAT is getting so hot that my drink holder literally goes up about 120'F or so. I know the dynamic damper shield has been replaced on my car. If it's that hot I don't want the CAT.
But taking out CAT will screw up the ECU so I have to re-program it to run not to lean not to rich. Who can do that? I don't want a replacement ECU, just to reprogram mine.

Try the RB flash.
http://www.racingbeat.com/PCM.htm

So basically if I keep the rev under 5,000 rpm the car is running it's best air-fuel ratio?

I think I'll just change the O2 sensor tomorrow.
Should I get a generic sensor with no connector or a specific one? On my Nissan the o2 sensor can be generic and I cut the wire and put them together.

How many o2 sensors are there? Are they before CAT or after CAT?
If there is no O2 after CAT, is it OK to just remove it and put in a mid pipe?

You are not going to get any better MPG by removing the cat. The car runs Rich to not kill the cat. Running rich in sense, keeps the car running cooler. The reason driving the car below 4750 is so that the second set of injectors don't turn on, giving you a little better MPG.

Technically it's no the cat that is making the cup holder hot, it's the transmission.

You don't want a JDM ECU, it has the 120mph limiter.

If you want a better tune out-of-the-box, use the RB race flash, plug'n'play.

S

If the trans is making the cup holder hot, is it time to replace it? Or does it need fluid?

its just heat, there is a DIY to insulate the cup holder

The reason driving the car below 4750 is so that the second set of injectors don't turn on, giving you a little better MPG.

I thought it was 3750?

If the trans is making the cup holder hot, is it time to replace it? Or does it need fluid?

That's normal, the cupholder is literally inches from the transmission...

Racing Beat Race Flash

-Richens the mid-range (3,000-5,000 RPM's), thanks to no cat, you can dump gas and not care
-Lean out the 5,000 + RPM range.

If you are sensitive to how much gas your car uses when you go WOT, then you will notice a change in gas consumption when you get this flash.