OK... I'll come clean here, I have kids, a wife and a dog that we just spent 2 hours cleaning her projectile shit off everything!! Point is I just don't have the time to spend that would be required to get all the info I need off this forum. I know if i read long enough, I'd find it, but then I'd have no family and possibly no job.

I have installed the standard greddy kit with the e-manage ultimate, purchased April of this year. My RX runs well, the increase in power is obvious but, given that I've run out of time and money please help with the following:

1. How do I find out if my e-manage has the latest map for my 8? Greddy doesn't reply to my emails and the instructions/website talk in generic terms.

2. How important is a blow off valve? I know it prevents the turbo from having to reverse itself every time I let off the gas or push in the clutch, but if it were critical, why wouldn't greddy include it with the kit? It's not like it would be expensive for them.

3. I use royal purple 5w20. Many people say it isn't heavy enough? Is there any actual evidence to support that claim? What weight should I use?

4. MM has gone to a great deal of trouble in coming up with a greddy upgrade and I really appreciate his efforts and if I had more time and money, I would get it for sure. There is also alot of discussion about changing the wiring of the greddy harness... this seems like an extremely painful task. Is it worth it, either the upgrade or the wiring? My 8 isn't perfect, power drops off at 7K rpm and i always get the p0661 CEL (i can't stand that), but it runs very smooth and reliable and has good low end power (something that was never there before). I chose the greddy kit because of it's supposed reliability I don't want to change that for a few extra ponies.

5. I've read that 9 psi with the greddy kit is the safe limit, is this true even with the standard install? What boost controller are people buying?

6. I kind of wish i bought the MM access port instead of the dashdaq or just afford both, but I can't and I needed a gauge/scan tool. The thing that I like the most about the MM access port are the maps he has come up with. are there any cheaper alternatives that would be reliable and work well with the greddy e-manage?

7. If there was only one fix I could ever do to my standard greddy install, what would it be and how would it benefit my 8?

Thanks in advance and sorry to burden you all with my personal problems (dog has got to go!!).

Travis

No! Don't get rid of the dog!

1. How do I find out if my e-manage has the latest map for my 8? Greddy doesn't reply to my emails and the instructions/website talk in generic terms.

If you take it to a tuner that tunes EMU's then they can tell you. Or you can get the computer interface and download the latest map from GReddy and install it.


2. How important is a blow off valve? I know it prevents the turbo from having to reverse itself every time I let off the gas or push in the clutch, but if it were critical, why wouldn't greddy include it with the kit? It's not like it would be expensive for them.

Very. You are not only loosing performance but everytime the compressor and turbine wheel are stopped but the onslaught of reverse flowing air, you are destroying your bearings. A ball bearing turbo can handle this better, but the T618Z GReddy snail is a journal bearing CHRA and can not.

3. I use royal purple 5w20. Many people say it isn't heavy enough? Is there any actual evidence to support that claim? What weight should I use?

This largely depends on what climate you live in, but 5W-20 is too thin regardless. I would step up to a 5W-30 at a minimum, possibly 10W-30 or even 20W-50 if climate permits.

4. MM has gone to a great deal of trouble in coming up with a greddy upgrade and I really appreciate his efforts and if I had more time and money, I would get it for sure. There is also alot of discussion about changing the wiring of the greddy harness... this seems like an extremely painful task. Is it worth it, either the upgrade or the wiring? My 8 isn't perfect, power drops off at 7K rpm and i always get the p0661 CEL (i can't stand that), but it runs very smooth and reliable and has good low end power (something that was never there before). I chose the greddy kit because of it's supposed reliability I don't want to change that for a few extra ponies.

The MM upgrade is much more reliable than the standard GReddy kit could ever hope to be. The turbo is an oil and water cooled dual ball bearing CHRA unit. You are not only gaining horsepower, but now you won't have to fear about your turbo smoking every 5000 miles or less.

Plus, it lowers your intake temperatures due to more efficient compression, also improving reliability.

5. I've read that 9 psi with the greddy kit is the safe limit, is this true even with the standard install? What boost controller are people buying?

9psi with the standard GReddy snail is safe (provided you're tuned). Remember the kit was only designed for 5-6psi operation, however.

Boost controllers, like gauges, are highly individual. It all depends on how much you want to spend. For the lower end electronic boost controllers, I like the GReddy ProFeC B, for higher end I would go GReddy E-01, HKS EVC-6, or Turbosmart E-Boost.

6. I kind of wish i bought the MM access port instead of the dashdaq or just afford both, but I can't and I needed a gauge/scan tool. The thing that I like the most about the MM access port are the maps he has come up with. are there any cheaper alternatives that would be reliable and work well with the greddy e-manage?

Not really sure what you are asking here.....you are looking for a cheaper AccessPORT??

7. If there was only one fix I could ever do to my standard greddy install, what would it be and how would it benefit my 8?

Have you seen MazdaManiac's "GReddy turbo fixes" thread? He listed the 3 main things that need to be fixed to make the kit run better.

If you have performed all 3 of these "fixes", then the next best thing is stepping up to the MM Upgrade

Chickenwafer, thanks for the input. Some clarification questions:

1. Is there a BOV out there, like from greddy, that wouldn't require me to attach it to the appropriate tube myself?

2. I just read the initial post from MM about the 3 essential greddy fixes. I have the e-manage ultimate (purchased in april of 2008), thus according to MM's last paragraph I don't need to perform fix #3. Also, my air pump never appears to run after the ignition is turned off. Is it possible greddy fixed this issue with my version? Maybe I only need to perform fix #2?

I don't think I experience fix #2's symptoms as stated by MM: "...part throttle/off-idle drivability much easier because the throttle isn't always fighting boost. Now you are not forced to spin your wheels every time you leave a stop light..." I never feel like I'm going to spin my wheels when I don't intend to. Did greddy improved their waste gate actuator to work better with the manifold pressure? Is that even possible for it to work properly from there?

Thanks again for any advice.

where do you live

I live in Ashburn VA (northern VA). I guess I should update my profile document.

Chickenwafer, thanks for the input. Some clarification questions:

1. Is there a BOV out there, like from greddy, that wouldn't require me to attach it to the appropriate tube myself?

2. I just read the initial post from MM about the 3 essential greddy fixes. I have the e-manage ultimate (purchased in april of 2008), thus according to MM's last paragraph I don't need to perform fix #3. Also, my air pump never appears to run after the ignition is turned off. Is it possible greddy fixed this issue with my version? Maybe I only need to perform fix #2?

I don't think I experience fix #2's symptoms as stated by MM: "...part throttle/off-idle drivability much easier because the throttle isn't always fighting boost. Now you are not forced to spin your wheels every time you leave a stop light..." I never feel like I'm going to spin my wheels when I don't intend to. Did greddy improved their waste gate actuator to work better with the manifold pressure? Is that even possible for it to work properly from there?

Thanks again for any advice.

The air pump is pretty silent so hearing it can be difficult. You don't really need it anyways, so I say just remove it (you will get a CEL, however).

All blow-off valves have a fitting that must be welded to a pipe or intercooler end tank. You can attach the blow-off valve anywhere you want on the charge piping, as long as it's in-between the turbo and the throttle body. Ideally you want it as far from the turbo as possible so you aren't emptying your intercooler and pipes of air.