Grounding Wire sets
$195

Full Mazda ground wire set for engine bay.
Some claim performance gains of up to 5HP.

I don't , as I have not tested!

Very nicely made, flexible, heavy gauge braided wire with lug tab ends, instructions.

Cables are sheathed in blue transparent plastic.

If buying them is too rich for your blood, and you want to make your own, then here is what you need:

Install manual, cover page

location page

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Wow, awesome Maurice.

I'm not into the technical side of things so can someone please explain to me what exactly does it do? thanks

Originally posted by moRotorMotor
I'm not into the technical side of things so can someone please explain to me what exactly does it do? thanks I'm with you. I was under the impression that everything was already grounded through the chassis anyway. What does adding an alternative path give you?

Some claim the engine sparks better with this sorta thing and electrical components such as relays and valves respond faster due to a cleaner signal. Personally I dont beleive it much, but ya never know. STranger things have happened.

OK, for those who haven't "experienced" a 3rd gen RX-7 (or several other new cars - see the Edmonds site), here is a quick rundown.

You have high current running in the engine compartment - eg headlamps draw 6 Amps, running lights perhaps 4, radio perhaps 4, etc. It all adds up, and is supplied by the alternator, which is bolted to the engine. If you connect this to the chassis with, say, a 1.5 metre 12 gauge wire (ground), then you will get a voltage drop along this wire - somewhere in the order of 1 Volt (E=IxR assume R 0.05 ohm and I around 20 Amps). It may be only half this, but 0.5 volt is still substantial.
You will see voltage drops all over the car. This hasn't been a problem until the last 5-10 years. We now have computers in our cars, and they measure very small voltages (or changes in voltage, actually). Take the O2 sensor. It puts out 0-1 volt or so. The computer looks for millivolt changes, however, to control fuel etc.
So, knowing how expensive (and heavy) large gauge wire is, and how expensive it would be to install it at the factory, you now know one reason it isn't stock. The heavy gauge wire, properly installed, can reduce the voltage drops substantially (but not eliminate them entirely).
Depending on the car, owners are reporting improvements in throttle response, mileage, power, smoothness, etc.
Canzoomer thinks the above kit is a little expensive - that's why he posted the details so you can make your own. Go to a stereo shop (or area at, say, Future shop, or whatever). Buy a little cable, some ends, some heatshrink (for looks). You may be able to find a shop that can crimp the ends on this large cable for you (proper crimping is the best way to connect the ends - lowest resistance - you can then solder just the ends for corrosion protection as well).

We're not making this up. I grounded my 3rd gen. to get rid of a hesitation. Owners of other makes and models report other improvements. Mazda offers this kit. Maybe it really does something too. Make your own, for what, $50, and report back. I bet it will do something. Hey, at the very least, if you get nice looking cable, it will look cool ;-).

WOW! Who ever knew a few cables could do so many things?! The name should change from Grounding Wire Sets to Miracle Cables :) lol this is going to my "must have" list

Just remember it's much less likely to make a large difference on a brand new modern vehicle than on an older one. Keep your expectations in check!

Oh, dont get me wrong. I dont beleive it will change anything in the car, but I am open to it working great as well. Also I just like the thought of making something like this thats relatively simple and can add a nice bit of color under the hood :D We even got aproximate sizes from Maurice and thats nice too :D

I plan to make mine next week or so.

I don't know about you guys, but I can't seem to follow those diagrams. First, they're not detailed enough for me. I can't see what's what in that engine bay. Although I have knowledge in car stereo, I don't understand a thing about the engine area of a car. Second, I don't read Japanese.

Can somebody suggest something for those like me? Or could someone translate the Japanese?

Ok, forget about the Japanese translation! I just looked at Canzoomer's illustration more closely and I see the endpoints (A1, A2, A3, A4, B1, B2) on HIS illustration but I can't clearly see where they're supposed to be attached in the Japanese diagrams, notably the engine and ECU frame grounds.

By the way, if I just use car stereo power wires, what gauge would that be? Would 8 gauge suffice?

Yup, should, or even larger.

I plan to take pics and do an "How To" post after I do mine, showing connection points, source for wire, making ends, etc.

Great, Omicron. I and I bet others would really appreciate that.

Omicron - I would definitely appreciate it. I have never even heard of this theory, it could just be BS, but it is very believable. Pix please!

Installed the kit in Canzoomer's car.

The connection you can't see is on the lower intake manifold (aluminum part) - bolt with ground cable to body.

well, what has the kit changed? Did you feel a difference after you changed the wires?

What has changed is not easy to tell on the power side.
I am still breaking in my new engine (850km on it as of today) so full tilt WOT runs are still out of the question.

What I CAN tell is this:
Tonight I started the car, ran a minute or two to warm up.
Turned on the headlights. rpm did not change.
Previously it would dip down 500rpm , then recover partially.

So there definitely IS a difference.

Also, someone looked at the install docs and said they could not tell where to connect.
If you look under the hood it readily becomes apparent.
Each of the connection points are ALREADY GROUND POINTS for the existing wiring.
So, on each side, at the back of the engine bay , at the back of the ECU on the left, and on the intake manifold, on the aluminum body, you see bolts with relatively big ground wires attached.
These are the connection points.
The last one is the battery ground , of course.

Auxiliary grounds are actually pretty necessary on the 3rd gen RX7, at least. They're useful to make sure the engine management computer is sending and receiving the cleanest signal possible with no spurious electrical "information". The '7 is known for a stumble under moderate throttle called by most owners "the 3000rpm hesitation" and its most effective cure is to improve the grounding of the drivetrain to the body. Two spots are common, but I think I did either four or five on my '94 and it banished the problem forever.

Hmmm, I just did a home kit, just for the passenger side of stuff (need more quality crimp connectors).

I haven't started it or driven her yet, but I did break out the ohm meter after the install.

From the battery post (-) to the driver's side fender wall (you'll see a stock ground wire), there is about 1.1 ohms of resistance measured with my fluke.

I did the same to the passenger side, after I used some 8 gauge wire, and that one is reading about .5 ohms.

No, it's not a direct comparison, I'm too lazy tonight to undo what I did. BUT 1.1 OHMS from battery to ground point???????

Originally posted by syntrix
BUT 1.1 OHMS from battery to ground point??????? [/B]
That's not good. I am making my own home kit, using #4 wire, and am hopeful to have it done and installed by the weekend. I'll break out my Fluke tonight, and check that out myself; I'll make notes to compare before and after on the resistance readings, and will report back.
-Doc

Good luck measuring these low resistance values. I did this for a living until April. Only reliable way is to use a constant current source (regulated power supply with adjustable current limit for example) and drive say 10 Amps through the circuit and measure the voltage drop.

The problem is you will get a variation of several ohms just in your meter leads and connections. If you drive the current through, the small resistances have no effect on your voltage measurements, because the input impedance of a voltmeter is at least 15 k ohm. Measure the voltage -after- the power supply connection point, so its' resistance isn't figured into the reading.

Most flukes actually send voltage though the circuit. Granted it's just a ground, it will still pick up the proper resistance. Check the fluke site or documentation with your fluke for accuracy.

Sure cheap ones or knock offs are junk, but the expensive ones work absolutely great!

Let's get back to "november specials" in here ;)

OK, on to "Special"

First off I am closing this thread soon as, (surprisingly enough) it is now December.

Secondly, I will now start a December Specials thread.

Lastly, we go to full production shipping of our Stage1 kit on Friday!

We will be contacting those who have expressed an interest starting on Wednesday.