Hey,

I noticed that at least one person has bought the decarbonization engine cleaner from mazda.

I know when I use the stuff at work the only directions are the one on the can....which arent the directions mazda wants you to use.

Have you guys found the official mazda instructions as per the TSB or would you like me to post them?

meh I'll just post them:
A - CARBON REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING:
PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN USING ENGINE CLEANER.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES WHEN HANDLING.
ENGINE CLEANER IS FLAMMABLE.

NOTE: An assistant may be necessary while performing this procedure.

Approximately half a can of engine cleaner will be used per vehicle during this repair.

1. Start engine and warm to operating temperature. Turn engine off.

2. Cleaner kit comes with engine cleaner (A) and engine cleaner spray hose (B).

3. Disconnect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (ESPS) B1-27 connector.

NOTE: This will cut fuel injection and spark while performing the procedure.

4. Disconnect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.

5. Remove the front vacuum plug or vacuum hose from the passenger side of the lower intake manifold.

NOTE: 2006 model year and later vehicles have vacuum hoses attached to these ports for the PCV system. Disconnect these hoses from the lower intake manifold ports one at a time when performing this procedure. These hoses do not need to be plugged once disconnected.

CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to service both vacuum ports at the same time. Perform procedure for front port, then perform procedure for rear port.

6. Insert engine cleaner spray hose (B) into front port nipple (C).

7. Attach engine cleaner spray hose to engine cleaner spray can nozzle.

8. Have an assistant crank the engine. While cranking the engine, simultaneously depress the spray nozzle of the engine cleaner for a duration of 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, stop spraying and cranking at the same time. DO NOT depress accelerator pedal while cranking.

9. Wait a minimum of 30 seconds and repeat STEP 6 for the same port.

10. Reconnect vacuum hose or install vacuum plug to front nipple.

11. Repeat STEPS 5-10 for rear nipple.

12. Allow the engine cleaner to soak for at least 1 hour before starting engine.

13. Connect ESPS connector B1-27.

14. Attempt to start engine without depressing accelerator pedal.

15. Keep engine running between 1500-2000 RPM until engine speed has stabilized. Maintain this engine speed until all smoke has dissipated and / or engine has come to full operating temperature.

CAUTION: Do not race the engine during warm-up, this may cause catalyst damage.

16. Rev engine from idle speed up to 6,000 RPM, then release throttle immediately until RPM returns to idle speed.

17. Repeat 20 times with vehicle in Park (AT) or neutral (MT).

18-23. Cant be done outside of dealer, concerns using the IDS Computer System, not necessary anyway.

24. Turn engine off.

25. Connect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.


huzzah!

kevin.

should be in here

http://www.rx8club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=73

also i believe this is the part number for the cleaner from mazda, i could be off as i have two different numbers but forget which is which:
5555-08-008A

small addition steps 18-23 we activate the OMP manually thru the ecu to 60% capacity

No, you don't.
You activate it to step 60, which is nearly 100% capacity (step 64 is 100%).


as a way to recreate this at home you can suck fresh oil into the engine from a cup using the same vac nipple as for the engine cleaner. just stick the straw into a cup of oil and it will suck the oil down and in to lube the engine extra after the very drying effects of the engine cleaner.

I wouldn't do this (it introduces WAY too much oil and does so unevenly;not to mention you should use two stroke for that), but that isn't the reason you do it, anyway.
It has nothing to do with the drying effect (though increasing OMP output during and after the procedure is a good idea for this reason).
Mazda has you do that to verify the effect on engine vacuum and, therefore, compression. It part of the test, not a preventative.

No, you don't.
You activate it to step 60, which is nearly 100% capacity (step 64 is 100%).




I wouldn't do this (it introduces WAY too much oil and does so unevenly;not to mention you should use two stroke for that), but that isn't the reason you do it, anyway.
It has nothing to do with the drying effect (though increasing OMP output during and after the procedure is a good idea for this reason).
Mazda has you do that to verify the effect on engine vacuum and, therefore, compression. It part of the test, not a preventative.

adjusted it for you, as for the oil/cup thing i threw that on there after someone on here said thats how you DIY@home guys do it, shouldve just left it out.

never used a decarbonizer on my 7's motors so never really worried about getting oil in there other then premix and atf for deflood.

kevin.