Godspeed my friend, godspeed





dont forget to put the airbox back on, just sayin

Update. The eccentric shaft plug still wont come off!!! Even with the use of the pliers!! I have remove the airbox to have more room, but helped a little. To prevent me from damaging the eccentric plug, I'm gonna have to say: I give up. Taking it to a machanic that I know of and they know eveything about RX-8s. Thanks for all ya help.:ylsuper:
For your last own attempt...........see next link with info about the ESPS plug...........The release tab is on the bottom..........do not use pliers.........
Quote: "I had a really hard time getting it off also until I figured out where the tab was and where to squeeze it. Then it came right off."
The ESPS plug is exactly of the same type of plug as the 4 plugs of the ignition coils !!!!!!
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=186885&page=5


(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z179/tondef_1/IMG00038-20091112-0411.jpg)

Hi everybody! Is it possible to clean the engine of a series techII RX8 with Zoom Powerr Cleaner? If yes how?

I don't believe thats been established yet because there isnt the 2 nipples on the side of the newer rotaries..? search?

Sometimes those connectors get encrusted with dirt, and you can no longer squeeze them easily. Maybe clean it with contact cleaner and then follow with dielectric or wd40.

After the first time it is much easier to take it off the next.

thank you, just did mine with the zoom cleaner at 59k. not a lot of smoke but got a CEL and its bugging me :I

i wish there was a video for this, if i attempted this, I think my car would blow up lol

^ I wanna see that... lol

lol if I had unlimited funds, I would try it and video tape this, but I'll bring it to my buddy, he is a mazda mechanic and I will get it on tape and post it in the forum if you guys are interested

would you like a video of all the smoke too?

oh well here it is :D:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8CDW4Vopa8

would you like a video of all the smoke too?

oh well here it is :D:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8CDW4Vopa8

yes you are very kind lol

okay I did more reading and Im going to perform this my self, this saturday I want everyone to look up at the sky around 3pm, and tell me if you see a sunlight silver rx8 flying through the air, that would be mine :) after I blew the shit out of it

if you dont start the car after 10 minutes of putting the seafoam in, it hardens into concrete and your rotors get stuck..o.O

but I thought it said wait an hour... okay, now you just lowered my confidence lol,

excellent :evil_laug

just kidding.. it'll melt your apex seals.. much worse than concrete..o.O

okay I did more reading and Im going to perform this my self, this saturday I want everyone to look up at the sky around 3pm, and tell me if you see a sunlight silver rx8 flying through the air, that would be mine :) after I blew the shit out of it


3pm sharp.

Need to buy me popcorn for this event :rollingla

I'll get the fireworks :lol:

^ You don't have too... his car will be the fireworks :lol:

excellent :evil_laug

just kidding.. it'll melt your apex seals.. much worse than concrete..o.O

no it wont. I do like the urban legends that sprout up around these things.

when i was down at the socal dyno day Easy E1 put a whole can of seafoam into my engine and we let it sit for almost an hour. The high revs you're hearing are from another car doing a dyno pull.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4viTWhpqkrI

I would suggest premixing when doing a decarb since you're going to be losing a lot of lubrication in the process. I have an AP so mazdamaniac simply has a high oil output map that we load up and then put the normal map back on when we're done.

he never replied for me to say jk again :(
and how'd the dyno go?
oh and I got front plates on now

dyno was great as always
and front plates ftl

have you seen the pics i put up on a certain thread?

which ones?

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=3908952&postcount=85

no it wont. I do like the urban legends that sprout up around these things.

when i was down at the socal dyno day Easy E1 put a whole can of seafoam into my engine and we let it sit for almost an hour. The high revs you're hearing are from another car doing a dyno pull.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4viTWhpqkrI

I would suggest premixing when doing a decarb since you're going to be losing a lot of lubrication in the process. I have an AP so mazdamaniac simply has a high oil output map that we load up and then put the normal map back on when we're done.

Why did that place let you do this?! you could have killed someone!

Why did that place let you do this?! you could have killed someone!

its good for your lungs.

okay I did more reading and Im going to perform this my self, this saturday I want everyone to look up at the sky around 3pm, and tell me if you see a sunlight silver rx8 flying through the air, that would be mine :) after I blew the shit out of it


Did you do it? What happened to your car? Are you okay? Let us know how it went...

Did you do it? What happened to your car? Are you okay? Let us know how it went...

you didnt see the sunlight silver shooting star?

Did you? Have you ever had a chance to take a video or picture of the shooting star? How was it?

lol, you'll have 2 pm me on that 1

I chickened out lol, I know the steps on how to do it, just worried i'll screw something up ( confidence lacking ) its all good i will still do it on my own next week but this time I will have someone beside me that can watch me. I'm sorry to those who missed out on the potential fireworks. So here are your fireworks :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUgiRxs3aqo

hope it works

I'd be more worried about getting the rear rotor cap on.. i can get it off.. but cant put it back on. my dad, with bigger hands, can get it off and put it back on faster that i can even take it off.. does that make sense? no.. it doesnt.

Has anyone tried to decarb their engine by sucking in mix of distilled water and WD40 while the engine is running at 3000rpm like they show in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETYmhdSd-Sk&feature=player_embedded

with how cheap a bottle of seafoam is, i'd rather use it then wd40

with how cheap a bottle of seafoam is, i'd rather use it then wd40

I think it is more steam vs chemical clean and with engine running vs engine off.

WD40 acts as a lubricant.

i know water can work, but wd40 is made from more then water ;)

I think it is more steam vs chemical clean and with engine running vs engine off.

WD40 acts as a lubricant.

im pulling this out of my ass, but seafoam has cleaning properties compared to the WD40 i spray my bicycle chain with . . . . . . :mdrmed:

im pulling this out of my ass, but seafoam has cleaning properties compared to the WD40 i spray my bicycle chain with . . . . . . :mdrmed:

water/steam is the one doing the cleaning...

http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html

holy crap took me like 4 hours to read this whole thread, nyc badass job on the diy, I have enough confidence to actually attempt this now, gonna do it friday, and i'll do a video of the whole process from start to finish..

^ You read 540 comments plus mine = 541, right? :scratchhe

I would never do that, unless your a readaholic :)

i went thru the first 50 or something of the what not to do to your car thread. so worth it. btw, 542? :)

^ You read 540 comments plus mine = 541, right? :scratchhe

I would never do that, unless your a readaholic :)


lol yeah, cant sleep right now, had some smoke breaks in between, posted on some threads, just added the wife to the wives section, and now im just a post whore..lol can't sleep grrrr :rant:

just added the wife to the wives section

u did? brb

I bought a used RX8 engine and i tried the power of zoom cleaner out :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRHdqHXlcKs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEN1B6dBI5Y

ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) Works good to loosen sticky apex seals and lubricate everything.
I've personally seen my buddy do this to 3 junkyard 12As and one 13B and it worked every time.

I bought a used RX8 engine and i tried the power of zoom cleaner out :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRHdqHXlcKs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEN1B6dBI5Y

wish you have done this side by side with seafoam.

Did my second seafoam treatment. Last one was done in September... still a lot of smoke not nearly as much as the first one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giP1K6nF8JY

Seafomed the car last night. I unplugged the air pump and pulled out fuel pump and injector fuse. that worked fine.

Car pulls stronger in the midrange and up top. I going to finish it off today by steam cleaning with gallon of distilled water using same ports with engine running at 3000 rpm.

here are the instructions:
WATER INJECTION TREATMENT FOR ALL ROTARY ENGINES

When talking about rotary engines, carbon buildup is a common problem brought up. I have a writeup elsewhere in the tech section of internal engine damage pics, showing the effects of carbon buildup. A good way to combat this harmful effect is to inject water into a running engine as a matter of maintenance (note that I am not referring to water injection as a method to assist tuning and combat detonation, but rather as a maintenance procedure). By allowing an idling engine to injest a small amount of water, it hits the rotor faces and turns to steam, cleaning off carbon as it does. The more regularly you perform the maintenance, the cleaner your engine will remain. The procedure (I believe) was originally brought to light by Rob @ Pineapple racing, so please note that I’m not trying to take credit for this, only spreading the information for use by individuals.

Note that this should in no way harm an engine in good health. Water doesn’t combust, but it doesn’t harm any internals or sensors such as plugs or 02 sensors either. The engine will misfire and stumble during the time water is injected, this is normal. You will have to apply throttle to keep the engine above 3000rpm during the injection.

To perform this, I use a gallon jug of water and a long vacuum hose, say 3 feet. Though this is different for nearly every year and model, the underlying goal is to find 1 or 2 vacuum nipples on the intake manifolds after throttle body, preferably on the lower intake manifold so that the water can run straight down into the block. You want to feed both front and rear rotors evenly…generally you have 4 intake runners, 2 for the front, 2 for the back. Some engines have one nipple that can feed both (s4 turbos, for example, have one above the BAC valve that is evenly split between F and R primary runners). Some engines (fd’s and s5 na’s for example) have 2 separate nipples that can be teed together externally (vacuum hose and tee) to evenly feed both rotors.

With the engine running, remove the vacuum cap or lines that used to cover the nipple you’re using. You might have to apply throttle, so the engine doesn’t die due to a vacuum leak. Insert your hose(s) onto the nipples, and bend the hose somewhere in the middle by hand so that it seals off the air intake. Now, dip the end of the hose into the water at the bottom of the jug. Either grab the throttle linkage and rev the engine up, or have an assistant hold the throttle for you, above 3500 or so. Release your crimp on the hose, letting the engine vacuum suck water in. The engine will begin to shake and misfire, apply throttle as necessary to hold 3-4krpm and keep the engine from dying.

Expect a lot of steam from the exhaust. This is normal. I let the engine drink the whole gallon at once. When it’s done, it’ll begin to clear up slowly, and you can gradually let off the throttle and replace the original vacuum hoses/caps.

just got a second cleaning on Tuesday, courtesy of Mazda and a flooded engine.

I will do water cleaning procedure twice a year..that and track events will make sure that engine is carbon free.

I flooded my engine a few months ago, and I've lost about 2 MPG since. I'm planning on replacing the plugs this weekend (along with an oil change.) Any recommendations if I should zoom clean it before the plug swap? If it doesn't much matter, I won't bother zooming it this weekend and will see if the plugs bring my mileage back.

I chickened out lol, I know the steps on how to do it, just worried i'll screw something up ( confidence lacking ) its all good i will still do it on my own next week but this time I will have someone beside me that can watch me. I'm sorry to those who missed out on the potential fireworks. So here are your fireworks :)

...

hope it works

It helps if you have someone there to boost your bravery

WCS and I have done this procedure and will assist (stand and watch) anyone's first attempt... :) as long as you're in the GTA area!

I flooded my engine a few months ago, and I've lost about 2 MPG since. I'm planning on replacing the plugs this weekend (along with an oil change.) Any recommendations if I should zoom clean it before the plug swap? If it doesn't much matter, I won't bother zooming it this weekend and will see if the plugs bring my mileage back.

it wouldnt hurt to do it before you swap your plugs.. I've heard it fouls up the plugs, but who knows? I dont have time to take out the spark plugs and look at them before seafoam, put them back in, seafoam it, take them back out, reexamine.. you should investigate this :)

Has anyone done anything to try to capture the smoke? I want to do this, but don't want to piss off the neighbors.

Has anyone done anything to try to capture the smoke? I want to do this, but don't want to piss off the neighbors.

just smoke em out. like a boss :smoker:

Has anyone done anything to try to capture the smoke? I want to do this, but don't want to piss off the neighbors.

i think you're underestimating the amount of air a car pulls in and then pushes out through the exhaust. The ones i've seen at bench dyno shops are 15 feet high, 4 feet around, and don't capture all the gasses.

i think you're underestimating the amount of air a car pulls in and then pushes out through the exhaust. The ones i've seen at bench dyno shops are 15 feet high, 4 feet around, and don't capture all the gasses.

Maybe a drained pool? Olympic size.

Maybe a drained pool? Olympic size.

:lol:

why cant we just let the natural gasses do its thing?

lol, I was thinking more along the lines of a filter. Like the kind you put in your house (which probably won't work since they are paper) or the metal ones you put in the hood range above the stove.

Has anyone done anything to try to capture the smoke? I want to do this, but don't want to piss off the neighbors.

Park near a bar.
Administer the seafoam dose.
Drink a beer while you wait an hour.
Hopefully it's a bit dark by now
Start the car and pollute the parking area
Drive away

Or go to a burnout competition. You could win without even putting the car in gear!

Or go to a burnout competition. You could win without even putting the car in gear!

:yelrotflm:yelrotflm:yelrotflm

Or go to a burnout competition. You could win without even putting the car in gear!

foolin the competition one seafoam at a time :rofl:

I got myself a can of Seafoam at the weekend :) ......one thing it does not come with the flexible tube to attach to the nipples!

Anybody got an idea of what the diameter of the flexi tube is as ill probably just order some? Unless anybody else has another way to do it.

Cheers!

I went to a parts store and got a rubber line, like fuel line or brake line, and used that. I'm not sure where mine is or I'd snag a measurement for you. Go to the parts store, take off one of the nipple covers and use it to measure your tubing.

Done! Although the rubber caps were a nightmare to get off. Thanks bud.

it was a worse nightmare to put them on.. glad i dont have to deal with that no more

Ugh, do NOT skip the warming the engine up part. I forgot this time (had pulled the EPS connector and didn't get back to the job til the next day,) and apparently flooded the engine..

just cleaned the engine with Seafoam last weekend with nicely white smoke hit my neighbor :D:

it was PITA to remove the vacuum plug for rear port coz mine is RHD, it almost took half an hour to get it :cussing:

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/3636/23943242.jpg

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/8489/70652930.jpg

anyway thanks to OP for DIY and RX8 Bulletin for reference

there is alternative vacuum line trough which you can administer seafoam. It is easily accessed as it sits on top of the throttle body boot. The middle (12 o'clock position) line also called "Jet-Air Nozzle System" since it goes directly down into the intake ports. Another nice thing about is that you administer seafoam to both chambers simultaneously.

I made post about it yesterday : http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=217177

Doing this now. I put 4oz on a water plastic bottle for each run. How did you guys measure the amount on each run? 4oz is good for each? Sorry havent read all this thread lol

I did the mazda engine cleaner and the first time used half the can and it didnt smoke at all....waited and did it a second time and it smoked but not like these other videos lol

OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!! The smoke was all over!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! crap. I forgot about my 2 cop that live 2 houses down. I hope they dont call the cops or come over lolololol So if I have so much smoke what does that mean? I mean the smoke was all over the street and all!!!

Park near a bar.
Administer the seafoam dose.
Drink a beer while you wait an hour.
Hopefully it's a bit dark by now
Start the car and pollute the parking area
Drive away

Best idea I've read in a long time.

Also I got some smoke coming out of my engine bay. I think one of the plugs from the nipple was not in all the way. I mean it was in but not super in. Can that why I had white smoke coming from engine bay?

^ same here but just ignore it lol so excited to see the white smoke covering all over from my view mirror :D:

what does it mean when you have sooooooo much smoke?

^nevermind saw the vids in youtube same as mine lol

lol so I had a worst hot start ever today. Any ideas? I went for a drive, hit 8k 2x. Then drove to my parents house, parked it for about 5 minutes and when I went to turn it on it would not turn on. I had to try it 4 times. It never did that.

never had problem till now...

I wanna do this but im in a built up area so I thought I could go to work early but is there a linit to how long it should be left as I though I could get it in the system then leave it till I go home (8 hours) is this to long.

Is it absolutely necessary to do this with 2 people. Thinking of doing this tomorrow. I know someone is supposed to crank the engine while the other person holds the bottle or something (havent read the full DIY yet). Possible to do this alone ?

^ i just do it by myself :) just make sure the can/bottle sit firmly and not to spill it out.. anyway doing it with 2 person might helps alot :beer:

haha thanks !!

8 hours is definitely too long.
Using the siphon method with seafoam can be done solo, but I don't think zoom cleaner can be used solo (it's a spray can.)

wait foo .. how did you do it by yourself ?? Arent you supposed to press the nozzle on the bottle with cranking the engine ??

Also im using seafoam and it doesnt have a nozzle or hose to connect the liquid to the nozzle. Do i just put any random hose in the bottle then connect that to the nipple and just crank the engine ??

the seafoam i bought don't have any nozzle to press, so i just put the tube in the can and it suck by itself when cranking the engine.. thats what i do..

Sorry which tube do you put in. THe black ones you remove or one that you put in the bottle then connect that to the nipple ??

Sorry i just dont wanna mess anything up

i just put the tube in the can and connect it to the front nipple first like 10 seconds as per D.I.Y, but if you not sure do it alone, as i said do it with your buddy might help alot :) i don't want anyone here blaming me if they do it by them self and find it doesn't work for them ;)

Its a pain in the *&^ to get the eccentric shaft thing out omg !!!

Gave up. I put everything back together. the eccentric shaft is impossible to remove !!

And i have the aem cai so i have perfect access to it. Its just hard to remove it. I press so damn hard but the damn thing doesnt come off.

Gave up. I put everything back together. the eccentric shaft is impossible to remove !!

And i have the aem cai so i have perfect access to it. Its just hard to remove it. I press so damn hard but the damn thing doesnt come off.

took me 20 secs to remove it e shaft sensor.

i just used plier to remove the e shaft, no worry it'll not brake the connector :)

I unbolted the Eshaft sensor, way easier than unplugging in place.

i just used plier to remove the e shaft, no worry it'll not brake the connector :)

Whoa, how u got the e shaft off with a plier while the engine is still in the car :lol:

Gave up. I put everything back together. the eccentric shaft is impossible to remove !!

And i have the aem cai so i have perfect access to it. Its just hard to remove it. I press so damn hard but the damn thing doesnt come off.

Of course it's impossible, u can't remove the eccentric while the engine is in the car ... U gotta take the engine out, take the engine apart to remove it :lol:

Joke aside, If it gets stuck, spray some electrical cleaner will clear it up.

It took me maybe 10 or 20 seconds to get mine off

Whoa, how u got the e shaft off with a plier while the engine is still in the car :lol:

so funny :rollingla we mean remove the eccentric connector lol

did anyone do a test to see which is better for carbon removal zoom cleaner or seafoam?

i think both did for same purpose..

lol so I had a worst hot start ever today. Any ideas? I went for a drive, hit 8k 2x. Then drove to my parents house, parked it for about 5 minutes and when I went to turn it on it would not turn on. I had to try it 4 times. It never did that.

had a compression test lately?

had a compression test lately?

no lol but that was just that time, weird. I havent driven the car as much since I did the seafoam cause ive been working from home. I still get some white smoke when I start it in the AM. How long till it should go away? I maybe drove the car 3 times this month. Im going to try to drive it for a while today.

Thanks for this detailed guide.
Used it today and now my engine is silky smooth.
:bowdown:

I made a DIY video. It was kind of impromptu so it's not great, but if you're having questions about locations and such, this will definitely help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdIGJbUJdv0

Since my car has 130k on it, and I don't know if this has EVER been done, I ran 2 tanks of gas with a can of seafoam in the tank- about a week apart, to help loosen some of the crud. I noticed improvement with each tank of seafoam and I didn't want a big chunk to break off and not dissolve in this process.

Tonight I peeled away another layer of the ozone all by myself :D It was like I set a small village on fire- I opened the sunroof to see all this smoke just engulfing the car, hahah! It was epic. I did warn the neighbors ahead of time to shut their doors and windows. Great DIY, followed instructions exactly (with seafoam not the zoom cleaner), amazing results. Feels like a whole new car.

The CEL is normal, its from the sensors being unplugged. It should go away in a day or 2.

Hmm.. is it a # of on/off cycles to get it to go away?? I have a CEL that's been bugging me, and I wonder how long I should wait to have the code read, or will disconnecting the battery reset it? :confused:

Hmm.. is it a # of on/off cycles to get it to go away?? I have a CEL that's been bugging me, and I wonder how long I should wait to have the code read, or will disconnecting the battery reset it? :confused:

I would get it read by an autozone or equivalent tommrrow. It most likely is from the e-shaft sensor being disconnected, though it could be an 02 sensor failure, or anything else.

Good luck!

rear o2 sensor:sad:

and eccentric shaft sensor. Aren't you a Miss Cleo, lol!

rear o2 sensor:sad:

and eccentric shaft sensor. Aren't you a Miss Cleo, lol!

I have my moments! if you reset your ECU you should be ok. You might need to reset your e-shaft profile using the 20 brake pedal method.

It is said this procedure is for engines models from 04-08, in other words these instructions are not for the Renesis? Is this true?

It is said this procedure is for engines models from 04-08, in other words these instructions are not for the Renesis? Is this true?

It doesn't matter what year you have, you still have a Renesis. Just varies from Series 1 or series 2. 09 and later are series 2. I have an 04 which is a series 1 renesis. Do some reseach on your car, people around here expect you to be able to find things for yourself and not ask redundant questions that are all over this forum. They will either flame you, or ignore you. There is an entire section dedicated to series 2. If you have a 09+ then your renesis has a different oil injection system so this thread probably won't apply to you. I wouldn't know for sure.

Hey has anyone here ever hosed down their engine. I've done it before to clean other types of engines *achoo pistons*...but I'm reluctant to do it with the 8. Attempted once..but kinda pussed out. Anything I should know before I soak that sucker?

Not a good idea to just remove the plug wires. You need to disable ignition and fuel injection and this does not do that. As an alternative to removing the ES Position Sensor Connector, I believe you can remove all the EGI fuses (3?) in the main fuse box to accomplish the same thing as removing the ES connector.

Another way to access the ES Position Sensor Connector is from under the car. Jack up the left side of the car, install jack stand, crawl under the car and reach up in front of the engine and remove the connector by "pinching" the top of the connector and pulling up on it. Works for me. However, if you have "fat" hands you may not be able to use this approach.

Can I get someone to verify the thing about the fuses? I don't see any way how I would be able unplug the ESPS without 1.) taking so long the engine would already be cool, or 2.) getting burned in the process.

Disconnecting 3 fuses would make this whole thing infinitely more simple.

EDIT: I disconnected the 3 smaller fuses and gave it a shot and the car wouldn't even crank(I guess its called turning over??). Does this mean that this method won't work or was I supposed to disconnect the large EGI fuse and two of the smaller ones?

You can pull the ESPS off the block with one bolt. I found that a lot easier than unplugging it.

You can pull the ESPS off the block with one bolt. I found that a lot easier than unplugging it.

You mean unbolt it and then unplug it(easier access)? Or would just unbolting it do the trick?

Just unbolting it should do the trick, but if you want to be extra sure and unplug it, unbolting it first does make it a lot easier to unplug.

What is the size diameter tube do I need to get the tube over the nipples? I am planning on doing this on Friday.

http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3277106
Seafoam appears to be on sale at advance auto parts.

So I flooded my engine yesterday, and got it going after 25 minutes of cranking//deflooding.

The engine seems kinda 'not all there' for some reason now. It idles just fine, but doesnt rev as fast/its not as strong.
Just wondering if this could help my situation here... I mean, why not?

Its an 07 with 50k miles, and to my knowledge, has never been seafoamed or has had new plugs.

Probably time for new plugs then (and maybe coils and wires.) It's generally accepted around here that plugs should be replaced well before Mazda's recommended service interval.

Probably time for new plugs then (and maybe coils and wires.) It's generally accepted around here that plugs should be replaced well before Mazda's recommended service interval.

Agreed. I'll work on the plugs.
Do you think seafoaming is a good idea right now?

Do you think seafoaming is a good idea right now?

I do. Seafoaming shouldn't do anything to the plugs, but in the unlikely case it does, or you end up flooding, having a fresh set of plugs on hand isn't a bad thing.

Thanks, this sounds like fun. :yumyum:

Lol look at that sexy smoke ring she blew out

Waiting for coils and wires to come in to go with the new plugs I just got. I plan on seafoaming it as well, but should I do the seafoam with the old plugs new wires new coils? Or just put all the new stuff on and go with it. I figured I might as well do it with the old ones to just start completely fresh with the new plugs, but if it isnt necessary it will save me some time.

Thanks in advance.

It wont matter.... I'd say 90% of the seafoam gets pushed out the exhaust ports before it has time to do anything, the 10% that stays behind will cause no issues.

What helps me is that i ran some vacuum hoses from the side ports that were capped and just moved the cap to the end of the hose.:icon_tup:
I no longer have to take out the washer fluid bottle and all that.
I can put the Zoom cleaner right there and i leave it like that all the time.

Doing this is a quick 30 minutes now for me. (without the wait time):D:

I ran the hoses under and around to make it fit works great...:ylsuper:

But of course check your battery at the end, I did and I have a charger it was down to 71% after i did all the stuff i had to do...

Okay - so hear is the problem.....

After the cleaning car started fine - warmed it up - then blew it out to 6k a few times. Now it will not idle - runs great - no power problems - just will not idle.

Could this be because I disconnected the battery and it needs to reset itself over time? I went for a 20 mile ride - still stalling.

Any suggestions would help. Thanks.

Yeah, mine does that too- I take it outside city limits and "teach" it how to idle again... i.e., rolling through stop signs so it won't stall out, taking it for a hard drive, and parking it for about 10 mins while keeping the car from stalling out. It seems to relearn the idle in this way; if I keep the car from dying, it fixes itself.

But that's not why I came back to this thread. I've tried to find a part number or at least a technical term for the nipple that covers the port where you introduce your seafoam/zoom cleaner. I'm a klutz and I dropped one and lost it... tore the front wheel off looking for that damn thing, spent the entire hour trying to find it. I ended up getting a piece of hose to connect both ports together- probably not a good idea, but it's driveable in the meantime, and no nasty junk will get inside. The vaccuum caps that I did find were cheap plastic, and probably will not hold up to the heat.

There's only one Mazda dealer in this stinkin state, and the guy on the phone had no clue what I was talking about. I figured I'd ask here before driving an hour and a half to stick my car in their face and say "look.. this thing right here," and then have them have to order it.


Anyone know the part number for a nipple, I need one or two extra.. lol

Yeah, mine does that too- I take it outside city limits and "teach" it how to idle again... i.e., rolling through stop signs so it won't stall out, taking it for a hard drive, and parking it for about 10 mins while keeping the car from stalling out. It seems to relearn the idle in this way; if I keep the car from dying, it fixes itself.

But that's not why I came back to this thread. I've tried to find a part number or at least a technical term for the nipple that covers the port where you introduce your seafoam/zoom cleaner. I'm a klutz and I dropped one and lost it... tore the front wheel off looking for that damn thing, spent the entire hour trying to find it. I ended up getting a piece of hose to connect both ports together- probably not a good idea, but it's driveable in the meantime, and no nasty junk will get inside. The vaccuum caps that I did find were cheap plastic, and probably will not hold up to the heat.

There's only one Mazda dealer in this stinkin state, and the guy on the phone had no clue what I was talking about. I figured I'd ask here before driving an hour and a half to stick my car in their face and say "look.. this thing right here," and then have them have to order it.


Anyone know the part number for a nipple, I need one or two extra.. lol

Go to Autozone and buy a rubber cap usually the ones they sell are a tad too long and need to be cut. Pull the other one you have to compare sizes.

Because the dealer will charge like $4000 before tax (sarcasm).

Yeah, mine does that too- I take it outside city limits and "teach" it how to idle again... i.e., rolling through stop signs so it won't stall out, taking it for a hard drive, and parking it for about 10 mins while keeping the car from stalling out. It seems to relearn the idle in this way; if I keep the car from dying, it fixes itself.

But that's not why I came back to this thread. I've tried to find a part number or at least a technical term for the nipple that covers the port where you introduce your seafoam/zoom cleaner. I'm a klutz and I dropped one and lost it... tore the front wheel off looking for that damn thing, spent the entire hour trying to find it. I ended up getting a piece of hose to connect both ports together- probably not a good idea, but it's driveable in the meantime, and no nasty junk will get inside. The vaccuum caps that I did find were cheap plastic, and probably will not hold up to the heat.

There's only one Mazda dealer in this stinkin state, and the guy on the phone had no clue what I was talking about. I figured I'd ask here before driving an hour and a half to stick my car in their face and say "look.. this thing right here," and then have them have to order it.


Anyone know the part number for a nipple, I need one or two extra.. lol

1010-13-104 is the part number.

1010-13-104 is correct # for Mazda OEM, on-line for about $3.00 each...not used from Jan,17, 2006 production.

correct title should be

DIY: How To Waste Your Time and Money Pretending You're Doing Something Useful That Isn't

or maybe a better title is

DIY: How To Destroy A Cat Converter By Performing This Procedure Without Disconnecting It From The Exhaust System First

Go to Autozone and buy a rubber cap usually the ones they sell are a tad too long and need to be cut. Pull the other one you have to compare sizes.

Because the dealer will charge like $4000 before tax (sarcasm).

The ones I looked at were a larger diameter, and the ones that would fit were thin, cheap plastic :sad:

Thanks for the part number!!

There are coreect sized "nipple" at autozone. Just that not all autozone has hard working employees ...

At 3 bux a piece the stock part is a pure rip off, just like the stock valve stem cap ... but if u dont mind then ...just use the part number i gave u.

correct title should be

DIY: How To Waste Your Time and Money Pretending You're Doing Something Useful That Isn't

or maybe a better title is

DIY: How To Destroy A Cat Converter By Performing This Procedure Without Disconnecting It From The Exhaust System First

Then u mind to explain why some engine got better compression after the procedure?

While i agreed that most of the juice will be push outa the exhaust port, but when u inject it while the engine is hot, it should be able to melt some stuck carbon, should be quite useful on grandma driven engines.

The ones I looked at were a larger diameter, and the ones that would fit were thin, cheap plastic :sad:

Thanks for the part number!!

Weird I got a 5 pack of them for $2

There are coreect sized "nipple" at autozone. Just that not all autozone has hard working employees ...

At 3 bux a piece the stock part is a pure rip off, just like the stock valve stem cap ... but if u dont mind then ...just use the part number i gave u.

haha quite true, lazy shits!

Then u mind to explain why some engine got better compression after the procedure?

While i agreed that most of the juice will be push outa the exhaust port, but when u inject it while the engine is hot, it should be able to melt some stuck carbon, should be quite useful on grandma driven engines.

if you ever get a chance to crack an engine open pour some seafoam on parts that have sticky or hardened carbon, you will see nothing happens. You need a steel brush heavy duty degreaser and lots of patience. I had to get in there with a steel pick and spend hours getting the carbon out of the side seal grooves.

A pro building will use walnut shell medium and blast the stuff off.

Whatever seafoam that does not immediately leave the exhaust ports might remove a tiny bit of sludgy type stuff. but the culprit of engine failure is the super sticky/hardened carbon. Seafoam wont even begin to touch that shit.

Seafoam doesn't need to remove the crap. If it can soften it, the apex seals aren't exactly made of rubber.

u need to heat the part up before you soak it into Zoom zoom cleaner. I tried it on my FC rotors, it worked, it melt some and soften some. but if u let it sit for too long the soften one becomes hard again. (LOL)

maybe that's the reason why Mazda wants u to spray that stuff in only when it's hot? :)

note : personally I never tried to use Seafoam. I assume it's same shit. but as always YMMV.

Thanks for all the detailed instructions! The photos really helped. I just got done doing this with SeaFoam and it worked just fine. Car seems to be a bit happier now too!

I do have one question, if I am to do this again, is there any reason why I couldn't use two tubes/hoses from the SeaFoam can to both inlets? Anyways, just a thought.

Thanks again!
-Kurtis

Seafoam doesn't need to remove the crap. If it can soften it, the apex seals aren't exactly made of rubber.

huh?

The only carbon that matters is in the apex seal grooves, side seal grooves, and corner seal holes.

Carbon on the rotor faces is just going to happen and its not a big deal so long as it doesn't buildup and is just a thin layer.

Seafoam is bullshit. Unless you fill your motor with it and let it sit overnight it is not going to remove any carbon from the the important spots.

I'm going to do that just for shits and giggles...

I actually think youd have better luck spraying carb cleaner through the plug holes while some manually spins the e shaft and puts a shop vac on the exhaust side pulling anything out...

I'm going to try that as well!

I'm going to do that just for shits and giggles...

I actually think youd have better luck spraying carb cleaner through the plug holes while some manually spins the e shaft and puts a shop vac on the exhaust side pulling anything out...

I'm going to try that as well!

I was thinking of doing the same to clean apex seal area,
I bought I rx8 cheap guy said it didnt start,'
bought new BHR ignition kit new plugs and a new red top battery it starts it takes a bit to start so im thinking is low compresion I have not tested yet im sure I need a rebuilt but im going to try clean apex seal area tru plugs so they can move freely . Car runs good smooth idle , no issues but when I try turning on again no go, Im in process of buying stuff to rebuilt,

sea foamed yesterday to combat hard warm starts... definitely made a difference without having to go through the plugs or fashion an exhaust vacuum.

After it sat for two hours I added ATF to the concoction and let it sit a couple more hours afterwards. I got some great pictures of the smoke once I fired her back up.

I know from my previous car that seafoam will foul your plugs,so I've been reading this thread and others to see what the 8 community does,I did notice increase in smoothness of rev and maybe some hp in seafoam cleaning on a piston engine,but only after cleaning and replacing plugs.

think I'm going to get some zoom cleaner and try the diy instructions,I've also been told from a Mazda mechanic seafoam is also corrosive to the inside of our block.

we'll see. the guy I bought my 8 from was using synthetic so I'd like to clean and switch to dyno oil if the rain lets up today lol

I know from my previous car that seafoam will foul your plugs,so I've been reading this thread and others to see what the 8 community does,I did notice increase in smoothness of rev and maybe some hp in seafoam cleaning on a piston engine,but only after cleaning and replacing plugs.

Seafoam will not foul the plugs, oil and unburnt fuel can but not seafoam... You can soak the tips of your plugs in seafoam to clean off the unburnt oil and fuel though :).

Sidenote, if the seafoam somehow rolled into the sparkplug hole with a mixture of carbon and got into the plug then yes that would damage it. But that would be next to impossible. The hols are rather tiny and the sparkplugs sit pretty far back.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/23549_386669309274_501754274_3810016_1048597_n.jpg

Mazda mechanic seafoam is also corrosive to the inside of our block.

He's an idiot, its essentially mineral oil. There is nothing special about our "block" its aluminum and iron just like a piston engine.

quick question about lubrication before i start the engine - after i let the seafoam sit for 1-2 hours, should i connect the vaccum hose to the nipples and add oil/premix BEFORE i start the engine? or should i add it as soon as i turn the engine on?

Yes/NO.

183104

Seafoam will not foul the plugs, oil and unburnt fuel can but not seafoam... You can soak the tips of your plugs in seafoam to clean off the unburnt oil and fuel though :).

Sidenote, if the seafoam somehow rolled into the sparkplug hole with a mixture of carbon and got into the plug then yes that would damage it. But that would be next to impossible. The hols are rather tiny and the sparkplugs sit pretty far back.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/23549_386669309274_501754274_3810016_1048597_n.jpg



He's an idiot, its essentially mineral oil. There is nothing special about our "block" its aluminum and iron just like a piston engine.

I was really questioning that. lol
as far as fouling the plugs,thats just what I've always heard so rather than find out the hard way I'd run it with the seafoam and replace the plugs,so egh,I didn't really get how it could fuck it up,so good to know.
well of to do my cleaning,thanks : D

I was really questioning that. lol
as far as fouling the plugs,thats just what I've always heard so rather than find out the hard way I'd run it with the seafoam and replace the plugs,so egh,I didn't really get how it could fuck it up,so good to know.
well of to do my cleaning,thanks : D

I trust a Mazda mechanic about as much as I trust a crackhead in a mansion.

I just did this an hour ago a ton of smoke came out all over the street and the car feels great. My rough idle is gone and the car feels better overall. Great DIY:Eyecrazy:http://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/Eyecrazy.gif

do you have to leave the car in neutral and rev it to clear it out, or can you just get out and drive the thing once you fire it up

I've now cracked open 2 engines that were seafoamed prior to being pulled and seen 1 that was seafomed regularly.

SEALS WERE STUCK AS SHIT, ROTORS WERE COVERED IN CARBON.

I guess I need to crack a few more open and show pics for you guys to get this through your thick ass skulls.

I've now cracked open 2 engines that were seafoamed prior to being pulled and seen 1 that was seafomed regularly.

SEALS WERE STUCK AS SHIT, ROTORS WERE COVERED IN CARBON.

I guess I need to crack a few more open and show pics for you guys to get this through your thick ass skulls.


No shit, it's a good thing we had that bad ass Harbor Freight degreaser. It saved the day.

I will have a blast cabinet before I get to my next rebuild, scrubbing engine parts blows.

No shit, it's a good thing we had that bad ass Harbor Freight degreaser. It saved the day.

I will have a blast cabinet before I get to my next rebuild, scrubbing engine parts blows.

Yea dude that was for sure the last one I do by hand.

Did this today with Seafoam it was super easy and my 8 almost sucked up the whole can of Seafoam (theres like .5 oz left in the can). I let it sit for an hour then fired it up. Tons of smoke came out and i left it to idle to operating temp.

Only prob I had was after it was idling normally i started revving it to 6k like the TSB says and my CEL started blinking. It blinked for about 15 seconds then went away. I drove for about 30min after that to clear out the rest of the Seafoam and no CEL, the cars running fine.

I know the blinking CEL means its misfiring but could that have been due to all the seafoam in the engine. Because im not gettin any misfiring or CEL since I seafoamed it (this morning).

I've now cracked open 2 engines that were seafoamed prior to being pulled and seen 1 that was seafomed regularly.

SEALS WERE STUCK AS SHIT, ROTORS WERE COVERED IN CARBON.

I guess I need to crack a few more open and show pics for you guys to get this through your thick ass skulls.

Rotors are always covered in carbon, even when it snew, after maybe a day or so, it will be covered.

The better way to do this would be water, seriously, it will clean everything. But might cook your cat. Steam works best

Rotors are always covered in carbon, even when it snew, after maybe a day or so, it will be covered.

The better way to do this would be water, seriously, it will clean everything. But might cook your cat. Steam works best

Yea thats kinda my point... I did see a thread on the 7 club about a guy who steamed his FC regularly and when they pull the rotors they were pretty much carbon free.

Why u guys even let it sit for so long before u start it up? U do know that he shit gets hard when its cold right?

What i am hinking is mazda use this to try to get the steaming effect, but seafoam only works if the solution and the part is hot.mazda probably afarid that wrench monkeys cant handle water cleaning and might damage more than fixing anything

P.S. : god, i hate typing on a tablet

Just completed the zoom engine cleaning procedure. Took me all day due to some complications...

Some tips:
1. Definitely remove the wiper fluid tank, makes getting to the nipples easier.

2. The nipple covers are tough to get off due to the vacuum in the tit. I used needle nose plyers to delicately tease the nipple caps off. Don't press too hard or you could damage the tit. To put the covers back on the tits, spray some windex on the tits to lubricate them making it easier to slide the covers on.

3. Don't overdo it on the zoom engine cleaner. I ended up flooding my engine because apparently I used too much.

4. To get to the ESPS, I removed the battery and the plastic battery holder. There are 3 bolts to get this off. The battery holder is in two pieces. You have to wriggle the top piece of it off from the bottom portion of it to get to two of the bolts. Once this thing is removed, it is easy to access the ESP sensor with your right hand. *No need to remove the intake manifold. Note: you need to reconnect the battery before cranking (duh)

5. Once locating the sensor, clean it off with a rag before attempting to take it off. Mine had tons of grease buildup.

6. The sensor is stubborn to get off. But if you squeeze hard enough from the back on the release tab (using your right hand index finger and thumb on top side) and then pull, you can get it off and back on no problem.

7. Your battery will most likely wear out by the time you are ready to try and start it. It wasn't until I used jumper cables did the engine turn over fast enough to get it to start.

8. This procedure WILL drench your spark plugs with black carbon sludge. If you are planning to change spark plugs, I suggest you wait until you are done doing the cleaning procedure before installing new plugs. Mine got covered with sludge and I had to clean them. Tip to clean the plugs: use the same engine cleaner on the plugs and watch it "eat" the carbon (it sizzles like acid).

As I mentioned, my engine flooded due to this zoom cleaner. I ended up having to de-flood the engine by removing the plugs and purging all the liquid and "crap" out of the engine. (This is documented in an Engine Cranks No Start TSB). Make sure to disconnect the ESPS before attempting to purge the engine. Also, put rags near the spark plug holes otherwise this crap shoots out the side of the engine all over the place. If your engine floods and you use the purging procedure, go ahead and clean and dry the plugs as I mentioned above. Once you have purged the engine long enough and are satisfied you deflooded it enough, reinstall the plugs and ESPS connector. This is where I had to use a jumper cable to start my car since my battery was as good as dead by this point.

Finally after pretty much all day, I got the white smoke I was praying for. Did the rest of the procedure to to run the engine at 2K rpm and then series of 6K rpm revs. Eventually it idled okay. Although I seem to be having issues with the engine not wanting to idle at stop lights, I know eventually this will go away in time.

Hope this helps

congrats on wasting an entire day and whatever money it cost you to accomplish nothing useful


with that out of the way I suppose now you can fully devote yourself to searching for the Holy Grail ...

congrats on wasting an entire day and whatever money it cost you to accomplish nothing useful


with that out of the way I suppose now you can fully devote yourself to searching for the Holy Grail ...

Thank you. Was a learning experience for me. I am no mechanic but being able to successfully clean my engine and de-flood it was certainly an accomplishment.

As the saying goes, "never wrestle with a pig, because you both get dirty and the pig likes it".

-breezy_rx8