My car is in the shop for a second transmission rebuild that is being covered under warranty. I'm at just over 60k miles, though I started having problems at 58k this time (the last time at just over 30k). The issue I'm experiencing is that second gear would grind going into gear at high RPM. Previously, the same thing was happening with fourth.

My dealer just called me today saying that while they're still going to cover it under warranty, the technician believes that the AFE shifter is to blame. What he said was that the shifter is not traveling far enough when going into 2nd and 4th and the hubs are wearing out.

I do not want to create a panic or unnecessary fear/uncertainty/doubt, but this is happening and it MAY be related to the AFE shifter. I happen to have one of the very first runs of the AFE shifter and I know that changes were made to it. I don't know if any of these changes were made to address this, but, if you have one, and you have transmission problems, be sure to pull it out before you take in your car and if you're experiencing what I am, you may want to seriously consider removing it.

I know that when my car gets done this week, I will be pulling out the short throw and most likely replacing it with the mazdaspeed part or even the dreaded stock part.

I'll keep you all informed if anything else comes up.

Again, don't freak out. This is just what the dealer told me and they don't always get it right.

Ajax

I have the AFE STS and it seemed to fix the reverse problem I had. No problems with gear shifts yet. I'll keep that in mind if I have those issues.

Moved to correct forum...
Jeez I suck.

I'm freaking out Ajax!

good thing I don't have one :Eyecrazy:
yet

I'm freaking out Ajax!
I knew someone would..

I really enjoyed the short throw while it was in there. The shifts were super smooth.
Now I need to figure out what I did with my stock shifter and go back to that sloppy nonsense.

Never fear, Jedi is here!

I had my transmission replaced last year but I don't think it's related to the AFE SS. The grinding happened with the stock shifter, it just was more pronounced with the SS. (as one would expect with bad synchros)

I've seen a lot of transmissions replaced and YES, MANY of them had a SS but that's probably because this is one of THE most popular mods for M/T owners.

I slapped my SS in my new transmission a week after it was installed and I have been fine ever since! :D:

The 2nd gear grind is not caused my the AFE SS.

I have the EXACT same problem and I have a stock tranny. The problem is Mazda decided to put the miata tranny in the RX8.

I knew someone would..

I really enjoyed the short throw while it was in there. The shifts were super smooth.
Now I need to figure out what I did with my stock shifter and go back to that sloppy nonsense.

Yeah but if they rebuilt it the first time then it might have been a rebuild error they are just noticing now.

RP's stuff is pretty high quality, I'm sure that something like this wouldn't be overlooked by him

It really does irritate me that I've already had the tranny rebuilt once for 5th gear grinding. And its noisy as all heck now. I assume from the noisiness of my tranny (and my 300rwhp) that its days are numbered

how many of you with the shifting problems ran a GL5 fluid in the transmission, like maxgear?

Well, the first time this happened to me, the tranny had just seen its 30k service and they put the wrong gear oil in my tranny as well as another member's. We both had rebuilds done at about the same time. I have no idea what they replaced beyond my 4th gear synchros that time.

Now they're wearing again. I had the short throw in there back then but only for about 6k miles. Now it has been in there for 36k and I'm having the same issues again.

If it really isn't because of the short throw, then what is really causing it?
The shop guys tell me that the transmission actually is very similar(but not the same) as the old miata transmission. They said they even refer to the miata rebuild documentation as well as the RX-8's when they do the RX-8 tranny because it has more real pictures (not just drawings).

I'm not knocking RP's shifter at all btw. It's a great piece and I've loved it since day 1. I'm just concerned and I wanted to make people aware of what is being said.
That said, I will most likely pull it out once I get the car back.

how many of you with the shifting problems ran a GL5 fluid in the transmission, like maxgear?
I had problems after they did my 30k because of the wrong gear oil and now again just before 60k. I did just have the transmission fluid swapped and I had royal purple put in there.

how many of you with the shifting problems ran a GL5 fluid in the transmission, like maxgear?

I use RP maxgear 75w90. Are you suggesting that is what caused my grinding issue?

Max-Gear is recommended for use in truck, motor home / RV, and automotive front or rear differentials, manual transmissions, and lower gear units of marine engines that specify use of an API GL-5 or GL-4 fluid.

http://www.royalpurple.com/gear-oil.html

I've used Redline since I've had maybe 6K on the odometer, it was one of my first mods. Changed it twice in 30K. then after my rebuild, I gave it a breaking in period of about 3K and I changed it to maxgear since thats the only thing I could find on short notice.

oh, and i've only had maxgear in the transmission for 4000 miles. I got it done at 56.6k. I had issues with second at 58k, and they're telling me 4th is having the same kind of issues.

I don't honestly think 4000 miles is going to cause that much wear on a gear, but who knows.

how many of you with the shifting problems ran a GL5 fluid in the transmission, like maxgear?

***RAISES hand***

Won't be making that mistake again. Using Redline now

***RAISES hand***

Won't be making that mistake again. Using Redline now

So why is it a mistake?
What's the story?

API Category GL-1 (inactive*) designates the type of service characteristic of manual transmissions operating under such mild conditions of low unit pressures and minimum sliding velocities, that untreated oil may be used satisfactorily. Oxidation and rust inhibitors, defoamers and pour depressants may be used to improve the characteristics of lubricants intended for this service. Friction modifiers and extreme pressure additives shall not be used.
API Category GL-2 (inactive*) designates the type of service characteristic of automotive type worm-gear axles operating under such conditions of load, temperature and sliding velocities, that lubricants satisfactory for API GL-1 service will not suffice.
API Category GL-3 (inactive*) designates the type of service characteristic of manual transmissions and spiral-bevel axles operating under mild to moderate to severe conditions of speed and load. These service conditions require a lubricant having load-carrying capacities greater than those that will satisfy APL GL-1 service, but below the requirements of lubricants satisfying the API GL-4 service.
API Category GL-4 designates the type of service characteristic of spiral-bevel and hypoid gears in automotive axles operated under moderate speeds and loads. These oils may be used in selected manual transmission and transaxle applications.
API Category GL-5 designates the type of service characteristic of gears, particularly hypoids in automotive axles under high-speed and/or low-speed, high-torque conditions. Lubricants qualified under U.S. Military specification MIL-L-2105D (formerly MIL-L-2015C), MIL-PRF-2105E and SAE J2360 satisfy the requirements of the API GL-5 service designation.
API Category GL-6 (inactive*) designates the type of service characteristic of gears designed with a very high pinion offset. Such designs typically require (gear) score protection in excess of that provided by API GL-5 gear oils. The original API GL-6 test equipment is obsolete.
API Category MT-1 designates lubricants intended for non-synchronized manual transmissions used in buses and heavy-duty trucks. Lubricants meeting API MT-1 provide protection against the combination of thermal degradation, component wear, and oil seal deterioration which is not provided by lubricants meeting only the requirements of API GL-4 and API GL-5.
MIL-PRF-2105E this specification released in 1995 combines the performance requirements of its predecessor (MIL-L-2105D) and API MT-1. MIL-PRF-2105E maintains all existing chemical/physical requirements, stationary axle test requirements, field test requirements and data review by the Lubricants Review Institute that were required under MIL-L-2105D. It also adds the stringent oil seal compatibility and thermal durability test requirements under API MT-1. MIL-PRF-2105E has been re-written as SAE Standard J2360.
SAE J2360 standard is a new global quality standard that defines a level of performance equivalent to that defined by MIL-PRF-2105E, a U.S. military standard for approval that was not available to oil blenders in all parts of the world. It includes all of the most recent axle and transmission testing requirements identified in API GL-5, API MT-1, and MIL-PRF-2105E including the need to demonstrate proof-of-performance through rigorous field testing.

If you search you will find threads that say the viscocity of some tranny fluids don't work because they are too slippery.

In other words the oil does not stick enough to the gears. It falls off so fast thats why metal to metal wear occurs causing a breakdown in the syncro's.

Would switching my oil to redline improve it or is it too late?

RP is a great company but some people's transmission simply didn't care for it. Would the failure have ocurred with a different oil? Maybe... no one will ever know.

If you look at an 04 / 05 owner's manual, mazda recommends GL-4 or GL-5.
New owner's manuals only list GL-4. hmmm...

(according to what mazda showed me when a friend had issues with his transmission)

If you search you will find threads that say the viscocity of some tranny fluids don't work because they are too slippery.

In other words the oil does not stick enough to the gears. It falls off so fast thats why metal to metal wear occurs causing a breakdown in the syncro's.
Interesting.
And this could happen in only a short period of time?
This makes me wish I did the fluid swap myself rather than letting my oil change place do it. They recommended RP after I requested it for the engine oil.
Bah..

Oh well..
Dealer is fixing it now. If this really is the issue, why would the dealer say that the shifter isn't allowing the hubs to engage far enough?

The only reason I use RP is because there is a huge thread on here that is full of people that love it and have tried redline but prefer RP.

FUCK!

The only reason I use RP is because there is a huge thread on here that is full of people that love it and have tried redline but prefer RP.

FUCK!

If you're really having problems with a gear, call Paul at mazmart or just PM mazmart here and ask him to try and get you a used, low mileage tranny and do a swap. That's what I was doing originally until the dealer told me they'd do it under warranty.

Paul had me quoted 900 for a 20k mile transmission and another 400 for a swap from rotary performance. Paul sold that transmission though and he didn't have any in stock last I checked.

1300 is a lot better than 2800 for parts and labor.

I won’t spend a dime to replace this tranny with another OEM one.

I am waiting for somebody to release a rebuild kit that strengthens the OEM tranny.

What does Mazmart use as oil in their trannies?

What does Mazmart use as oil in their trannies?

No idea.
Those transmissions are most likely parts they salvaged out of cars that were either wrecked or converted to race vehicles by Rick Engman. That's speculation on my part though. You'd have to ask Paul or Rick.

The only reason I use RP is because there is a huge thread on here that is full of people that love it and have tried redline but prefer RP.

FUCK!

Don't worry about it.

The reason people are having so many problems with MaxGear is because everyone uses it. If virtually everyone uses something then theres going to be more reported failures.

Oil is oil, change it often and you won't have a problem.

RP specifically states that their MaxGear is safe on syncros (i.e. soft metals). It's on the website somewhere, I made sure of this before I put it in my tranny.

If MaxGear is really an issue, we've got a TON of failed trannies in the works.

it took just about 20,000 miles of RP max gear use before the grinding problem was detectable by me - it happened in 3-4 upshift at ~7k rpm. When the car had 47k miles on it, the problem was consistent and problematic enough for the dealer to be able to replicate the problem. At that point it was grinding at a much lower rpm.

They tore down the transmission because mazda wanted them to fix it instead of replacing. But the wear was so bad that they ended up giving me a brand new transmission.

don't mistake my transmission problem for abuse. I don't drop the clutch. The grinding issues happened before I was turbo. And I swapped transmission fluid every year. The first fluid swap took place around 5k miles (wanted to make sure everything broke in before I did the first swap)

Had RP Max Gear for 55K. Zero issues.

how often did you change the fluids? The last two swaps I did the shifting quality got much worse.

It's been swapped 3 times. I redline about 4-5 times a day, at least, but never dump the clutch. Also a couple hundred road course miles, all heel/toe shifting. Never any double clutching.

I've had RP for about 20,000 mi. I've seen no change in grinding, notchiness, etc. I drive very smoothly...maybe that's the biggest variable? I heel/toe for most all downshifts, or at least rev match. I've never raced and don't slip or dump the clutch or even launch at high rpm.

I've always had the occasional notchiness from 1-2, and some syncro noise (with AFE SS), but that's about it.

The rx8 tranny just plain sucks, most people's trannys are going to go out. The fluid isn't the problem.

^the apocalypse is near

If you're smooth and congnizant of the workings of the tranny, then I honestly feel that it's not really that bad at all.

Not everyone is sensitive enough to really notice the feedback from the car (from my experience). Especially with the AFE SS, the syncros will let you know if your not doing things quite right.

Yeah, part of the problem is driver error. People are rough pulling out of gear before the clutch takes most the load off, that grinds the cone of the syncro off, then your just left with the syncros themselves crunching themselves to mesh

Ajax, you of all people! :eyetwitch You should have called me and it's good that someone told me about this thread because I can put it to bed.
THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL THAT MY SHIFTER DOESN'T ENGAGE THE SYNCROS ALL THE WAY. :banghead:
1) The geometry is exactly the same as the Mazdaspeed SS. Exactly.
2) If anything it will go in further as it doesn't have the rubber joint keeping full pressure from being applied to the shuttle
3) At this time over 800 shifters have been sold. Yours is the only one where it doesn't get the whole syncro.
4) I think that most SCCA Rx8 racers are using my shifter with no syncro problems.
5) They all tried Mazdaspeed first.
6) They all paid sticker price for the SS from me. Not freebees.
7) When was the last time a dealer told you the truth.
8) When there was a problem with our shifter in the past I always came foward about it and made it good for you. How many dealers or manufactures do that?
So you know I'm not ducking out on you.
9) Our parts unlike factory stuff are made on CNC equipment not stamping machines
That means every part including the plastic stuff.
10) We use only the best US produced materials not what's cheapests.
11) ETC, ETC, ETS.

The stock one and the Mazdaspeed units engage the same amount...until it stops.
In fact if the shifter had any control over this then mine would engage it further. Think about it, use a paper and pen. Ours has a longer lower portion under the pivot therefore it would go further. That is of course if the limiting factor was how far the top was moved, but we know that has no limit only as far as your hand will go. But if it did have such a limit the SS would engage more gear.

I have no opinion as to the gear oil. I think if they meet the highest spec available then I will use them in my Ferrari or even the Mazda. That is of course because the parts are so much cheaper, easier to get and to install on a Ferrari.:lol:

If someone has a spare gearbox I will be happy to throw it into a machining center and cut a window into the side of it. We can then try all the shifters in there and watch how far they go in. Make that offer to your dealer and you will see him donate the old gearbox to us.:lol:

I'm only a phone call away.:) :)

Ajax, you of all people! :eyetwitch You should have called me and it's good that someone told me about this thread because I can put it to bed.
THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL THAT MY SHIFTER DOESN'T ENGAGE THE SYNCROS ALL THE WAY. :banghead:
1) The geometry is exactly the same as the Mazdaspeed SS. Exactly.
2) If anything it will go in further as it doesn't have the rubber joint keeping full pressure from being applied to the shuttle
3) At this time over 800 shifters have been sold. Yours is the only one where it doesn't get the whole syncro.
4) I think that most SCCA Rx8 racers are using my shifter with no syncro problems.
5) They all tried Mazdaspeed first.
6) They all paid sticker price for the SS from me. Not freebees.
7) When was the last time a dealer told you the truth.
8) When there was a problem with our shifter in the past I always came foward about it and made it good for you. How many dealers or manufactures do that?
So you know I'm not ducking out on you.
9) Our parts unlike factory stuff are made on CNC equipment not stamping machines
That means every part including the plastic stuff.
10) We use only the best US produced materials not what's cheapests.
11) ETC, ETC, ETS.

The stock one and the Mazdaspeed units engage the same amount...until it stops.
In fact if the shifter had any control over this then mine would engage it further. Think about it, use a paper and pen. Ours has a longer lower portion under the pivot therefore it would go further. That is of course if the limiting factor was how far the top was moved, but we know that has no limit only as far as your hand will go. But if it did have such a limit the SS would engage more gear.

I have no opinion as to the gear oil. I think if they meet the highest spec available then I will use them in my Ferrari or even the Mazda. That is of course because the parts are so much cheaper, easier to get and to install on a Ferrari.:lol:

If someone has a spare gearbox I will be happy to throw it into a machining center and cut a window into the side of it. We can then try all the shifters in there and watch how far they go in. Make that offer to your dealer and you will see him donate the old gearbox to us.:lol:

I'm only a phone call away.:) :)

^ See? :lol:

Its just like I said,

Its not your oil, its not totally your technique, its not your shifter or clutch.

Its that the tranny just plain sucks. Serious racers keep them in stock, like oil filters :lol:

Speaking of Mazmart has anyone asked Paul if he they looked inside one of the trade ins? What parts failed on those?

We have alot of SS down under in Oz and they have not reported any problems. Those guys have more room then God to thrash their cars in. :lol: They track regularly and build crazy drag cars. Jusy ask Hymee.
On top of that they shift with their left hand.:lol2:

Although this is in another thread in the "issues" section, I thought I'd mention that I had no grinds until switching to RP MaxGear. Only took about 5ooo miles for my 1st to 2nd shift constantly grind. Went back to Redline MT 90 and in only 20 minutes, the car was back to normal-no grinds or crunching 1-2 shifts. I use RP oil so I have nothing against them, but my tranny sure didn't like it. There are others with similar experience to mine.

I ran the AFE SS with Redline for about 18k miles. I had no shifting problems but lots of noise. Switched to RP Maxgear and the noise was greatly reduced, but on the VERY FIRST drive after I noticed a grind going into 4th at high RPM that I never had before. Over the next 3k miles, this gradually got worse and worse, then 2nd started grinding at random times and RPMs. I recently swapped the RP for Shockproof. The grinds seem to be gone (though 2nd is still notchy when cold), but it's too early to tell if the damage is totally reversible. I do think that the SS is a quality piece and I have no regrets for having installed it (when it's quiet). But I'd sure as hell stay away from Maxgear if I had to do it over...

Ajax, you of all people! :eyetwitch You should have called me and it's good that someone told me about this thread because I can put it to bed.
THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL THAT MY SHIFTER DOESN'T ENGAGE THE SYNCROS ALL THE WAY. :banghead:
1) The geometry is exactly the same as the Mazdaspeed SS. Exactly.
2) If anything it will go in further as it doesn't have the rubber joint keeping full pressure from being applied to the shuttle
3) At this time over 800 shifters have been sold. Yours is the only one where it doesn't get the whole syncro.
4) I think that most SCCA Rx8 racers are using my shifter with no syncro problems.
5) They all tried Mazdaspeed first.
6) They all paid sticker price for the SS from me. Not freebees.
7) When was the last time a dealer told you the truth.
8) When there was a problem with our shifter in the past I always came foward about it and made it good for you. How many dealers or manufactures do that?
So you know I'm not ducking out on you.
9) Our parts unlike factory stuff are made on CNC equipment not stamping machines
That means every part including the plastic stuff.
10) We use only the best US produced materials not what's cheapests.
11) ETC, ETC, ETS.

The stock one and the Mazdaspeed units engage the same amount...until it stops.
In fact if the shifter had any control over this then mine would engage it further. Think about it, use a paper and pen. Ours has a longer lower portion under the pivot therefore it would go further. That is of course if the limiting factor was how far the top was moved, but we know that has no limit only as far as your hand will go. But if it did have such a limit the SS would engage more gear.

I have no opinion as to the gear oil. I think if they meet the highest spec available then I will use them in my Ferrari or even the Mazda. That is of course because the parts are so much cheaper, easier to get and to install on a Ferrari.:lol:

If someone has a spare gearbox I will be happy to throw it into a machining center and cut a window into the side of it. We can then try all the shifters in there and watch how far they go in. Make that offer to your dealer and you will see him donate the old gearbox to us.:lol:

I'm only a phone call away.:) :)



Richard,

I never said your shifter was the problem.
The dealer told me that it was. Did I get to see how they tested it? No. They're still covering it under warranty anyway which makes it sound fishy enough to me.

I have loved your shifter since day 1 and I'm glad you're standing behind your product. I posted this thread to let people know what I was being told by a dealer who is still covering my car under warranty, probably because they fucked it up the first time.

I do not want to cast doubt on this shifter, because from 24k to 60k it has worked great for me but I want people to be aware of the things that dealers are saying, thus posting this on a forum, with the disclaimer at the top.

I made the mistake of leaving the thing in the car before I brought it in for transmission work and they're blaming it. Whether or not the hubs are wearing because of oil, the shift forks, the shifter, whatever, I will never know.

When the issue initially came up, they weren't going to cover it initially. My rep called mazda HQ and got it approved after talking to one of the tech reps there asking if a short throw shifter would cause synchros to fail. They infact said the opposite, that it would prolong the life of the synchromesh gears.

I hope that clarifies things

just shift this trans like you are touching another mans D---:) and you will be ok.
My bearings are starting to go---dont forget move up to a higher weight oil after 40-50K miles.
olddraggerg

Although this is in another thread in the "issues" section, I thought I'd mention that I had no grinds until switching to RP MaxGear. Only took about 5ooo miles for my 1st to 2nd shift constantly grind. Went back to Redline MT 90 and in only 20 minutes, the car was back to normal-no grinds or crunching 1-2 shifts. I use RP oil so I have nothing against them, but my tranny sure didn't like it. There are others with similar experience to mine.

Funny enough mine is the opposite experience. I went to Redline from the stock fluid and the cold shift quality was noticeably worse. I switched to Royal Purple after 5,000 miles because I simply couldn't stand Redline anymore and the crunchy cold shifts stopped for awhile, though it came back after about 7,500 miles. I decided to give Redline another chance with my latest change, but the quality is just as bad as before. I simply feel the stock tranny has bad tolerances, which is why we're getting so much variation in what it responds to.

Although this is in another thread in the "issues" section, I thought I'd mention that I had no grinds until switching to RP MaxGear. Only took about 5ooo miles for my 1st to 2nd shift constantly grind. Went back to Redline MT 90 and in only 20 minutes, the car was back to normal-no grinds or crunching 1-2 shifts. I use RP oil so I have nothing against them, but my tranny sure didn't like it. There are others with similar experience to mine.

That is VERY good news. I will replace my maxgear tomorrow with redline. I really hope it's not too late. :uhh:

well i have the problem with the shifting into second gear grinding when cold, so should i go into the dealer and have them check it out while i still have the warranty?

yes.

I have to disagree with royal purple maxgear not being the cause....

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=120874

You can argue that everyone uses RP and it's merely the tranny, but i have yet to see a trans replaced thread and the owner used a heavier Redline oil. Logic points towards the royal purple being way to light of an oil.

yes.

k. should i take off my midpipe and put in my rear seats before i go?

well i have the problem with the shifting into second gear grinding when cold, so should i go into the dealer and have them check it out while i still have the warranty?

Hell yeah!

At the very least get them to document the problem.

I've been using RP Oil Since 5K miles. Stock shifter.

Starting about 4-5 months ago, when I was at around hmm maybe 36K miles. I got this *BOV* kind of noise when I try to shift, its happening whenever Im faster than 30 mph.

At first I thought it was the Throwout bearing giving up.

then about 3 weeks ago, I drop the tranny, ACT HD Clutch & Disc out, new stock clutch back in, new fiction plate for Fidanza flywheel, new throwout bearing, new front and rear tranny seals. new bolts for everything , new RP Maxgear oil. Still getting the same noise.

Tomorrow I will jack my car up, replace all 4 wheels to Summer set, then gonna drain and flush the Tranny fluid to MT-90. Just to See what happens.

I am on Stock shifter, btw.

Hell yeah!

At the very least get them to document the problem.

ok, should i take off my midpipe and put back in my rear seats?

I don't have any tranny problems, but i have learned to be very mindful of how I change gears.

After doing a few 1st-2nd-5th accelerations I have noticed that if you try and shift after leaving 2nd at high rpms it's very hard to get into 5th gear and you have to wait for revs to die down before it'll even go in, the synchros on the tranny apear to be pretty weak and I'd advise everyone no matter what shifter you have to be gentle on the tranny, the engine can take the punishment, but I doubt the gearbox is up to it.

The tranny is very loud no matter how many miles are on it, so I don't think noise is a symptom unless it's grinding badly.

We should get Aisin or Mazda to come here to say a few words ~

1) I think there may be a tranny option on the way shortly.
2) Some folks are claiming the issue is not gears, or necessarily even synchros directly, but a lack of positive stops in the transmission allowing us to basically shift too-far into gear, causing deflection and excess wear. Obviously 2nd gear, for LHD cars, is the easiest to apply to much force to, with 4 the being the next easiest. Since these are the gears with the most synchro issue, I'm leaning toward this explanation.

I don't have any tranny problems, but i have learned to be very mindful of how I change gears.

After doing a few 1st-2nd-5th accelerations I have noticed that if you try and shift after leaving 2nd at high rpms it's very hard to get into 5th gear and you have to wait for revs to die down before it'll even go in, the synchros on the tranny apear to be pretty weak and I'd advise everyone no matter what shifter you have to be gentle on the tranny, the engine can take the punishment, but I doubt the gearbox is up to it.

The tranny is very loud no matter how many miles are on it, so I don't think noise is a symptom unless it's grinding badly.

5th/6th/reverse gear only have a single cone synchromesh gear.
1-2 and 3-4 have triple rings (triple cone synchcros).

Just would like to note My trans has 118,000 miles with no issues.
100,000 of the miles are with Red Line fluid
The last 47,000 with a AFE shifter.

ok, should i take off my midpipe and put back in my rear seats before i go in?

anyone?

anyone?

Rear seats will not affect warrantee but the midpipe would.

That has been my prior experience with an aftermarket short shifter also on my other car (2002 Protege). Initially, shifts felt crisp, then the shifting experience deteriorated to the point of not being able to correctly cog the gears. I switched back to stock and it hasn't deteriorated any further.

I'd like to think this furthers the point that it's very difficult for us to predict long term effects of any mod "in vitro" in the same way that OEM manufacturers have discovered through months/years of development.

Just would like to note My trans has 118,000 miles with no issues.
100,000 of the miles are with Red Line fluid
The last 47,000 with a AFE shifter.

Kinda curious, u use MT-90 all the way? or mix it with MTL like some ppl here

Im going to change it to Pure MT-90 tomorrow morning myself. plus swapping all wheels.

How does it feel? ppl said MT-90 shifts like crap.

Rear seats will not affect warrantee but the midpipe would.

but why would my midpipe affect the warranty on my trans?

but why would my midpipe affect the warranty on my trans?

It won't but they may document that you have a midpipe and they might give you trouble if you have engine issues in the future.

true. its just a pita to swap them out

true. its just a pita to swap them out

i would not worry about the midpipe... i would worry about the oil in it though. I just put RP in mine about 500 miles ago and am starting to get a nice grind in 2nd and 4th as well... kinda worried they will say its general wear and not covered or that when i changed the fluid i voided the warranty or some bullshit. I dont wanna take it in knowing its something wrong with the tranny then be forced to pay for a new one to get my car back... my warranty ends this month BTW.

well as far as i know, no one has changed the oil in the tranny except for the dealer.

Kinda curious, u use MT-90 all the way? or mix it with MTL like some ppl here

Im going to change it to Pure MT-90 tomorrow morning myself. plus swapping all wheels.

How does it feel? ppl said MT-90 shifts like crap.

MT-90 all the way.

I have to disagree with royal purple maxgear not being the cause....

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=120874

You can argue that everyone uses RP and it's merely the tranny, but i have yet to see a trans replaced thread and the owner used a heavier Redline oil. Logic points towards the royal purple being way to light of an oil.

Its not the cause, the only reason why it started grinding with royal purple was because your tranny was already bad to begin with. The super heavy redline you are using is just a band-aid.

Must be nice to get the dealer to work on your tranny for this problem. I've had it in 3 times and have been told 3 different things, but not one of them will address the transmission. I would like to see if it's the clutch pedal bracket that CRH mentions, or an actual transmission problem. I put the RP shifter on it about a month after I bought the car. I've swapped it out with stock, and put the RP back on. 2nd gear grinds no matter which shifter is in the car. I've been slow and deliberate with shifts just to test if it was a technique problem, and no matter what, it grinds at higher RPMs. And it's ONLY second gear (regardless of upshifts, or downshifts). I installed it with 32,000 miles on the car, and have 37000 on it now after 6 months.

Must be nice to get the dealer to work on your tranny for this problem. I've had it in 3 times and have been told 3 different things, but not one of them will address the transmission. I would like to see if it's the clutch pedal bracket that CRH mentions, or an actual transmission problem. I put the RP shifter on it about a month after I bought the car. I've swapped it out with stock, and put the RP back on. 2nd gear grinds no matter which shifter is in the car. I've been slow and deliberate with shifts just to test if it was a technique problem, and no matter what, it grinds at higher RPMs. And it's ONLY second gear (regardless of upshifts, or downshifts). I installed it with 32,000 miles on the car, and have 37000 on it now after 6 months.

see mine only grinds when i shift into second from first when the tranny is cold and at low rpms. the rest of the gears are fine.

I replaced my royal purple maxgear with red line mt-90 and now my 2nd gear grind is even worse! :(

see mine only grinds when i shift into second from first when the tranny is cold and at low rpms. the rest of the gears are fine.

its just the fluid is too cold and thick on cold mornings... either let your car warm up longer or double clutch for the first couple gears you row through

mines done this for 4.5 years now :)

I replaced my royal purple maxgear with red line mt-90 and now my 2nd gear grind is even worse! :(

That's what I found; the Redline doesn't seem to work quite as well as Royal Purple on my transmission. I chalk it down to a tolerance thing. At this point I'm going to either try BG or mineral oils for my next swap and see if it helps.

Once the transmission warms up though, it's butter smooth.

I'd like to chime in regarding the right transmission fluid to put into the car but don't want to get flamed, especially since I haven't put it on my car yet (I've got the fluids sitting here).

Like some have mentioned before, a 50/50 mix of Redline MT-90 and Redline MTL should alleviate the cold starting issues while still providing very good protection for the tranny.

Ideally MT-90 is the right one, but that's like recommending a monograde oil for our cars that face multiple seasons of the year. All that grinding after a cold start will take its toll, even if the fluid protects perfectly when its warm.

MT-90 is too thick for our cars (well unless you're track racing it) while MTL is a bit light. Though some cringe on the thought of mixing these fluids, they shouldn't be as they were designed for this so it can work best for most applications.

BTW I found Jax's post on the BITOG forums about what are good tranny fluids: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1118096#Post1118096

Any of the ones mentioned should work well. The thing to avoid is a GL5 fluid (the new owner's manuals recommend just a GL4), which the RP is. GL5 is good stuff for trannies that can take it.. unfortunately, not ours from the looks of it.

Have to agree with gundarx - I've tried all sorts of fluids, Syntek, MT-90, Esso, but found the mix of Redline MT-90 and one third of MTL to be best. Four years now, no grind, no stiffness in -30* weather, just smooth....


S

its just the fluid is too cold and thick on cold mornings... either let your car warm up longer or double clutch for the first couple gears you row through

mines done this for 4.5 years now :)

good. i really dont want to go through the whole warranty hassle. thanks