I tried searching for this topic but only found one where someone forced a dealership to fix it. Also I'm sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum section but this seemed like the best place.

At first when I heard the squeel I thought maybe I glazed the brakes from stopping too hard but it never went away. I was wondering if this is a known issue and what everyone else did to fix it? I tried to put that orange brake squeal crap on the pads and it fixed it for a day and the squeel came right back. so I'm out of ideas. I'm worried about taking it in for warranty coz I painted the brake Calapers Red and think they might refuse to cover it because I had taken tham apart to paint the Calapers.

Any helpful suggestions welcome!!

 

would they say that you caused the squeal by painting them??? hmm... couldn't say.

anyhoo, i thought taht was mostly from brake dust... just go to Midas or something and ask them... they'll wanna give you new pads or something... how do your rotors look?? ...i've got no real answers for ya. sorry.

 

Orange anti-squeal stuff? Got a brand name? Usually any anti-seize material will work. I've used Copaslip (do a Google search) with success. Paint a little on the pad backing plate where it contacts the caliper (on one side) or the piston (on the inside). Sometimes a shim of teflon material will help.
The squeak is caused by the pad vibrating against the caliper.

 

my squels have become less but wont go away totally

 

Did you pull the pads and apply the anti-squeal to the area where they contact the caliper? Just globbing it on in place won't do the job.

 

Search for the thread I did here in this forum on the backing plates and little stones.

I had really really bad squeal for the last 2 weeks, after the rallyx.

I got rid of the backing plate rattle, AND after washing the car and really squirting down the rotors, I'm lucky to get a little cheep when slowing down now.

I just think the brake/rotor combo is really sensitive to fingerprints/grease/oil on the setup.

I put the stock tires /rims on, but there's an autox this weekend, so I'll have to switch back. Might just roughen up the rotors a little and see if that helps.

 

My brake's squealed so bad, I had it at the dealership 3 times, they finally called mazda HQ, and they replaced all my pads and cleaned the rotors, and im having no problems now! hopefully this will help!

 

On my Lexus, there were thin metal shims between the pads and the calipers which were supposed to help, but the biggest aid was some gel (I think it was clear, about like thick vaseline) which went between the back of the pad and the caliper. This always worked for me. Lexus service and parts people are usually really good on this stuff -- try your local dealer? Good luck!

 

It's brake backing compound, and you can get a packet of it for like 2 bucks or less at your local store.

Gotta remove the pad, spread on the back, let dry for a bit, then put the pad back in.

I still have a bit of squeal and I think I might have cracked a pad on the track (common for stock compound), but I'll check them out more this weekend.

Anyone try the mazdaspeed pads yet?

 

I've always heard brake dust caused squeals, but, the brake pads vibrating against the calipers could make sense to me too.

Like bobm's Lexus, the RX-8 does have thin metal shims between the brake pads and calipers: See Mazdatrix

Mazda calls it "brake hardware", I've always replaced the brake hardware while doing my RX-7 brakes (no squeals either), so I'll do the same with my 8. Not every independent mechanic does this (dealers should though), but I've heard it reduces squeal to replace the hardware.

To fix the problem I would not disassemble and re-assemble your brakes with the existing parts. I'd get new pads & hardware because the existing pads have already seated to the rotors. I'd install new hardware and pads with that "anti-squeal goo" you can get at most auto supply stores - have the rotors turned too.

I believe using the “anti-squeal goo” between the pads and the pad backing plates etc will reduce your chance of the problem occurring.

 

I did use the anti squeal stuff and it's still there I took it to Mazda and they machined the rotors and still there. I'll just wait till brembo finishes the calapers and replace with theirs.

 

good idea protoolskid
but expensive

 

I think brembo is just about ready - here is the KIT!


Also, try the carbon kevlar brake pads when you upgrade. Maybe mazda was cheap with the 8's stock brake pad compound

 

where's my *rolleyes*??

 

i wonder how much the brembo will be. hopefully won't cost an arm and a leg

 

Don't machine the rotors unless you really have to since it cuts the life of them. Instead, use some fine sand paper and apply light pressure.

Try new pads. The pads need some time to break in with the rotors after it's resurfaced. Do some 40-20 stops to break in.

 

When you painted the Brakes red if you got any of the spray on the rotor your screwed. The paint that is designed for brake calipers has a special epoxy that will squeal like hell if you get any on the rotor.

I have heard that washing ur rotors in alcohol and a bit a scrubbing will get rid of it.

If not you will have to have ur rotors re-surfaced.

 

I would not say having the rotors turned CORRECTLY would impact rotor life.

If I'm correct, there isn't a preset amount that's removed when the rotors are turned. I believe very, VERY, fine amounts can be taken with each pass.

A shop with the proper equipment should be able to remove just enough to get them perfectly flat. It seems to me that with your mileage so low only the smallest amount should have to be removed.

I would not think you'd ever be able to get them perfectly flat or smooth using sand paper by hand.

Perhaps there is something I’m missing with the sand paper method – or maybe what I understand to be true is a bit over kill

 

Most manufactures are using thin rotors and basically require a replacement of rotors when doing a brake job. VW rotors are designed to be replaced with every brake job for example.

The sand paper just removes the small gouges on the rotor so that the new pads have better contact.

 

The sandpaper also roughens the surface and allows the pads to rebed to the rotor. The sanding also removes any glazing on the rotor. Glazing can come from contaminants on the rotor surface such as oil.

 

Oh, and there's a "min thickness" casting on vw rotors. I have a set of MKIV rotors, stock, sitting in my garage with about 1000 miles on them.

I doubt that VW/Audi would have them made with that casting if they were to dispose of them easily

 

I've never turned my rotors and have had no problems. IMHO I think it depends on if you have grooves or ridges in the rotors. I've always had grooves and have always figured that I have at least 80% pad/rotor contact until the pad wears in (then 100%). If you have ridges then you would have much less contact and the rotors should be turned. But again, I've always had groove problems and I think this is very typical.

 

My parents had a Volvo which had chronic sqeaky brakes. We finally solved it by putting semi-metalic brake pads on it. The brand we used (which is now a long time ago) was Repco Metalmaster, after they were recommended by Road and Track.

Link to Repco Brake Pads

 

If I have to go through the effort of pad replacment and stuff I'll just buy the Brembo Kit and hopefully that will solve the issue. A Guy at mazda said that if there is rust on the edges of where the rotors contact the pads then that will cause squeel. Sounds like BS to me because my old car developed rust there and they never squeeled. I think at this point it's the pad compound. Plus these pads release a lot of dust. My wheels are dirty again from one short trip after a carwash.

 

Jeez, you're comparing $45 of pads versus $600-$900 for Brembo calipers? What happens when you have to replace the pads on the Brembos?