Someone mentioned that this was a known problem? My oil light comes on when I'm traveling around 75mph and then goes off when I slow down a bit. And no, I'm not shifting the weight of the car.. the speed changes are fairly slow (but I do admit there's SOME change of weight going on).

I checked the dipstick and it said the oil was OK and the car has about 500 miles on it.

when you say the oil level was ok do you mean it was at full or do you mean it was, to you,at an acceptable level above the "add" line on the dipstick?

It looked full to me. I waited at least 5 min (probably about 15 min) after I pulled into the garage to check the oil level.

I've been getting the light at 1/2 between lines on the dip stick.

Today, I filled to the top line. Commute home, downhill, 5th or 6th gear, light throttle. Usually the light comes on. It did not today.

IMHO, the light should not come on if you are in the range of the dipstick. What it seems like is that it has to be filled very near the top line on the dip stick.

well if it was at the full line then go get yourself a new oil pan at your local mazda dealer. you probably have one with the wrong baffles.

Originally posted by zoom44
well if it was at the full line then go get yourself a new oil pan at your local mazda dealer. you probably have one with the wrong baffles.

Read the other oil light thread about how they have to diagnose the problem.

If you have it, and you can recreate it with the oil up to the top mark (not over), then I'm sure they will help you out.

The dealer service showed me an example where they filled the oil a bit and could not recreate it. If I had a photographic memory, I'd have some chick's personal info and address memorized; but I don't.

Bad karma for them showing me that, but just make sure you top up on oil and have a good attitude going in!!!

OK, thanks for the info. I didn't know about this. I'll just wait for my first oil change and have them look at it then and meanwhile I'll keep an eye out on the oil level.

If you drive hard, then check the oil level often! I've added about 2 qts in about 1500 miles.

But then again, 3 track days will probably burn more oil than the average commuter ;)

I'm amazed my oil light has never come on

I did add oil two days ago though after checking it

I noticed my oil light coming on today. I was coming back from a trip to Dallas (Meet CARROLL SHELBY!!!!) I was crusing around 85 MPH on I45 when I noticed my light coming on. I slowed down immediately and it went away. It never came back on no matter how hard I pushed the car. To be safe. I did pull over and check the oil. It showed that it was 1/4 below the full line. I topped it off. and everything seems fine. I'll make sure to mention it to my dealer when I take it in for service. I currently have around 1600 miles on it.

Yeah when travel at a sustained rpm of 4 to 5 K my light comes on. clutch and rev i goes away or take it out of gear and coast goes away. Seems to me around that range of rpm the .... hell i don't know the damn thing comes on (the light)

[oil 2/3 between the lines]

has happened in 4th 5th and 6th seem like all the damn time. doin' like 87mph on the highway i have gone to 5th and that work cause i go past 5K.

from all your post i guess the key is more oil.

I have trouble getting cars "just full" so this worries me. I don't want to over fill my baby.

Originally posted by Jazzman
It looked full to me. I waited at least 5 min (probably about 15 min) after I pulled into the garage to check the oil level.

you need to wait MUCH longer than that. even hours afterwards the oil isnt fully cooled. the best thing to do is let it sit overnight and check it in the morning, and add oil based on this reading

If your light is coming on and the level is over half, then you might be in line for an oilpan replacement. This was early VIN cars only though, so unless it's been happening for a while or it was a used/buyback car, might be something else

The oil pan issue does not seem to be "vin" specific.

Dealers have seen this problem in cars that were later build dates than the original TSB states.

Make sure when they change the pan they also update the PCM as the second portion of the repair calls for it.

This reflash was included in the 28.2 update

Does anybody know if this oilpan replacement is absolutely necessary. I have a very low VIN number (ends in 01087.....on the first boat over here from Japan), so I am qualified for the oil pan replacement. I have had the oil light situation only happen once in almost 11k miles of driving.

I heard that is has something to do with a baffle or something in the oilpan. What I'm wondering is whether I REALLY need to get this replaced, or if I do am I just going to be asking for an oil leak to start after they replace it?

Is this original baffle that it missing or inadequate in the engine causing the oil to froth up or not flow through the pan correctly, or is it just that it is making the level low around the oil level sensor at extended high RPM's?

I am taking the car in on Thursday of this week to have some work done to it and wondered if I should really torture them and add this to the list?

Originally posted by 91vert
Does anybody know if this oilpan replacement is absolutely necessary. I have a very low VIN number (ends in 01087.....on the first boat over here from Japan), so I am qualified for the oil pan replacement. I have had the oil light situation only happen once in almost 11k miles of driving.

I'd say yes, because perhaps you spring an oil leak (cooler line, etc.) and the light comes on because you're actually low on oil. You'll probably just ignore it and drive on because you're used to ignoring it. False alarms make real alarms much easier to overlook.

Simon