boom

The mindless pursuit of the imperfect explosion.

Isn't THIS more accurate?

fixed

Fixed even more.......::p:

what do yall think about the turbo xs bosh replacement valvae--10-25 lbs---would that work?
olddragger

what do yall think about the turbo xs bosh replacement valvae--10-25 lbs---would that work?
olddragger
Hell I would think that any Bosh replacement valve would work - Why not get one off Ray, I know they work.

Hell I would think that any Bosh replacement valve would work - Why not get one off Ray, I know they work.


...and he'd save a grip of money, to boot.

Ok, got some bad news and some good news. The bad news is opcons discontinued the preasant model of supercharger now offered and we have only 5 left and there in transite from them. The good news is there new model works with minor adjustments to the parts. After these 5 are sold the question is should we resume production or not with the new model blower? Id like to here some impute from owners and potential owners on weather to continue or not. Personaly I love the kit and what its become and id like to see it available for others to enjoy. On the other hand it can be a limited edition wich makes the ones in existance more valuable. Its not going to be hard to make the new ones fit so if you ever need to replace it for some ungodly reason, you can without much of a hastle.

Ok, got some bad news and some good news. The bad news is opcons discontinued the preasant model of supercharger now offered and we have only 5 left and there in transite from them. The good news is there new model works with minor adjustments to the parts. After these 5 are sold the question is should we resume production or not with the new model blower? Id like to here some impute from owners and potential owners on weather to continue or not. Personaly I love the kit and what its become and id like to see it available for others to enjoy. On the other hand it can be a limited edition wich makes the ones in existance more valuable. Its not going to be hard to make the new ones fit so if you ever need to replace it for some ungodly reason, you can without much of a hastle.


Glad I got mine when I did. Now to finish the tweaks.

Personaly I love the kit and what its become ...

You are welcome.

As a potential buyer who is about 6 months away, my vote would be to adapt the new blower, although I'm saying it for purely selfish reasons.

You are welcome.

Your imput has had nuthing to do with anything. :rant:

I say continue on with the Pettit blower....theres upgrades to mostly everything else in this world we live in...why not the opcon!!

after all, im sure we wouldnt still be using a 64 !!

:rollingla

PLEASE CONTINUE with the blower!!! I'm not an rx8 owner yet, but will be later this year, and plan on this being one of my first mods.

SO basically, pettit likes money right? No blower, no money from me.

Your imput has had nuthing to do with anything. :rant:

Yeah, just ask Phil.

when i go fi i was looking into going pettit so please continue!

continue --updates/upgrades are inevitable --heck the tuning and the adaptations are starting to just get good---cant stop now!
I would even suggest in upping the price from what it would be and including a water meth kit and intake temp gauge.
MM everyone contributed something--i appreciated and still appreciate it all.
olddragger

I would say continue......others deserve to feel the exhilaration that I have felt with the Pettit s/c.

Hay Moon, how many first gen s/c were produced? (from Pat's to present with the 5 you still have).

Ray how quick can you get a air by pass valve to me? I would prefer getting from you if i can get it in time. Check Summit's listing(40 mins from my house) please.
OD

Yeah, just ask Phil.

We appreciated your install on phils car and im sure if Jeff wasnt in the mix phil would have a flash from Pettit this week sometime. We had a 4 port in last week.

I would say continue......others deserve to feel the exhilaration that I have felt with the Pettit s/c.

Hay Moon, how many first gen s/c were produced? (from Pat's to present with the 5 you still have).

Well, its like the 4th gen fixen to go 5th, about 30 total from Pats included are the 5.

We appreciated your install on phils car and im sure if Jeff wasnt in the mix phil would have a flash from Pettit this week sometime. We had a 4 port in last week.

How about we all forgive and forget the bullshit from last year and acknowledge, as OD has, that we all brought something to the party? At least Cam is gracious enough to be interested in what BHR now has to offer the Pettit Crew, from what I understand, and is willing to discuss it should I have the time to visit you guys. Hell, I may just send a box of goodies y'alls way as a professional courtesy.;)

When Jeff and I finally get around to releasing our turbo kit then the tables will be turned and everybody can hammer us about it. It'll be fun!:lol2:

I have nuthing against you. I give credit were its deserved. As far as im conserned I only see you as a benifit to tell you the truth. Ive got a pretty good idea what your working on and im intrested in your results. Im not going into the Jeff thing again but I see him as a hater. If he thinks hes so rite why didnt he build it.

I appreciate your sentiments, Moon. I can assure you that Jeff is not a "hater" and he didn't build a supercharger simply because he has a different opinion on what the proper application is for a rotary. In the same vein, I am motivated to develop parts for BHR that, in my own opinion, are superior in quality to what is out there now. If I can't improve on a particular design I will try and create an equal for lower cost. As such, I have to follow what my own principles dictate. Jeff is the same way. What would people say if I installed a Pettit Kit on my own car while also being involved in the design of a BHR turbo kit? It might just happen....ya never know, as I am known for doing some wacky stuff. Have you seen the BHR pajamas and new shop location yet? Look at the pix in the BHR Product Line thread of the shop Jeff and I "opened" and tell me he's a "hater".:lol2:

I can't wait to see someone's dyno plot with 13-14lbs of boost.

Hey Moon. Did you guys ever test any other blow off valves besides the one that came with our kits??

I can't wait to see someone's dyno plot with 13-14lbs of boost.


.....and that pulley kit you keep dragging yer feet on......:lol2:

That radiator looks sweet, what have you found in the testing difference from stock??

.....and that pulley kit you keep dragging yer feet on......:lol2:

That is NOT funny.

Juan flogged his rad pretty good at an autocross event or two and was happy/impressed. Phil has reported liking what he sees/experiences with not only the A/T version but also my new intercooler(which Denny will be flogging at RR for me next week. I'll be there with my kids.) Chickenwafer was doing a bit of mountain-running in Phoenix with weather in the mid-90s and he says the temps never got above 194-195. 09 Factor was the first(A/T w Greddy) install and we both immediately noticed how much air the factory fans will move if given the chance. 09 also measured the fan cycle frequency/length and both were cut in half. Further, the Koyo rad has no warranty and my warranty is as good as it gets. I am on my 4th or 5th version as I keep trying to accomodate newer turbo kits. Those front mount kits that run the charge piping through the core support were a real headache and I ate a few rads in the process of making the changes. Maybe I should make them into instant beer chillers by using a CO2 intercooler sprayer and running the beer through the old rads.

Thanks for asking, Moon, I appreciate being given the space in a thread that isn't about BHR at all.

.....and that pulley kit you keep dragging yer feet on......:lol2:


Not dragging my feet, crawl, walk, run. Do 1 thing at a time then test. Im looking at whats going to break first. If I get 100,000 miles on my motor I had the best bang for the buck, not buck ($$) after bang.

Now i'm confused

Option A Price of car + kit = $$$
Option B Price of car + kit + pullys + maybe a motor or 2 = alot more $$$
I dont want to be the one to take the risk. After I see atleast 40,000 miles on a motor with the pullys I might consider them myself, till then im opting for other options.

I appreciate your sentiments, Moon. I can assure you that Jeff is not a "hater" and he didn't build a supercharger simply because he has a different opinion on what the proper application is for a rotary. In the same vein, I am motivated to develop parts for BHR that, in my own opinion, are superior in quality to what is out there now. If I can't improve on a particular design I will try and create an equal for lower cost. As such, I have to follow what my own principles dictate. Jeff is the same way. What would people say if I installed a Pettit Kit on my own car while also being involved in the design of a BHR turbo kit? It might just happen....ya never know, as I am known for doing some wacky stuff. Have you seen the BHR pajamas and new shop location yet? Look at the pix in the BHR Product Line thread of the shop Jeff and I "opened" and tell me he's a "hater".:lol2:

Hey Ray...you wear pajamas?
i wanna see this....

:doh: ... wheres my camera?

I was addressing Morkus, Moon. Sorry about the confusion.

Pat, you haven't seen the BHR pajamas on full display at the Boston meet? Ya gotta as Clavius about it. Classic CRH move, there.;)

Food for thought if tweaking is going to be taking place because of new compressor units.

I volunteer to sell my used compressor and pay the difference to go with a bigger unit. Since the kit will be temporaraly on the drawing board again.

We appreciated your install on phils car and im sure if Jeff wasnt in the mix phil would have a flash from Pettit this week sometime. We had a 4 port in last week.

You are adorable. You're like a Yorkie or a Bichon with one of those over-sized Denta-Bones.

BTW - While I was in Miami last week, I got a ROM dump from one of your, shall we say, less-than-satisfied customers. I'll let you guess which one.
Interesting stuff you guys are "tuning" with.

Na, I like the big dogs. You didnt stop buy while you were in town, shame on you.

Good to see the old MM back.

So ---how many lbs of boost are most getting?
Have new bypass valve on the way---thanks Phil.
By the way i cant wait to feel the "pull" once i mount my 40lb wheel/tire--24 and some tenths tall hoosier/track setup. final gear ratio is just slightly under the 4.77 gears people speak off. I think it is going to remind me of "the good ole days"
Welcome back Baby!
OD

while we are on it---has anyone looked at how much the engine moves now while in neutral and giving it full throttle?---with the history of weak oem motormounts maybe it is time for an engine torque damper?
olddragger

I am in the process of putting my factory mounts back in my car so I can engineer improvements to them, just like I do everything else. A very simple and inexpensive one, at that. BTW, I don't believe the factory mounts are "weak" per se, they just have one demand made upon them for which they are not designed. A bit cryptic, I know, but you'll see what I mean if I can ever get my Mazsport mounts off my car.

Good to see the old MM back.

Isn't it also good to see the "old" Moon back, as well?

Isn't it also good to see the "old" Moon back, as well?

Always good.

Just got a call here at Pettit, seems like some people are worried about parts. The parts are the same in the new blower, the only change is the outer housing, its cast, not an extrusion.

So Opcon found a cheaper way to build the blower housiong, is all eh? I guess we can continue forging ahead without concern then. Cool.:)

So ---how many lbs of boost are most getting?
Have new bypass valve on the way---thanks Phil.

Lets not forget this thread:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=133360&page=6

Its easier to talk openly about stuff like this over there without all the fanbois nonsense.

So Opcon found a cheaper way to build the blower housiong, is all eh?

:spank:



I am seeing a lean condition at cruise that, I have just been told cannot be corrected with a re-map of the ECU. (from the EFI-Dude setup)



The AccessPORT corrects this easily, so I don't see why the EFIDude flash couldn't. I guess they might not know how, which is not surprising.

My new eBay $65 bypass valve report:

Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis. :eyetwitch

Lets not forget this thread:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=133360&page=6

Its easier to talk openly about stuff like this over there without all the fanbois nonsense.



:spank:



The AccessPORT corrects this easily, so I don't see why the EFIDude flash couldn't. I guess they might not know how, which is not surprising.

Wow, three posts in a row in this thread where you pat yourself on the back; you're on a roll! Unfortunately you still have a couple of dozen more to go to break your record.

Hope you've been switching arms.

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/9154/gabf20078qf2.jpg

My new eBay $65 bypass valve report:

Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis. :eyetwitch

Looks good. Boost is the same then?

MM thanks for that earlier thread link---found my answer.
Sweet Juan--man you can sure find the stuff!
Ray I pm'ed ya!
olddragger

OD, I called my supplier but after looking at Juan's post I am thinkinhg that he might have "The Hookup".:dunno:

Ok--so that would be the better route?
OD

For now I am thinking so. If his is as good as the ones I can get that is one Helluva price! They look damned similar except mine is nice and shiny. OOOOOhhhhh.:lol2:

For the self-initiated, the valve in the Pettit Kit is the Bosch #0280142102. This valve is used in many German/Euro applications and one of the first things these owners do is replace them with a billet upgrade. There are several sources available;

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/496175/bosch_turbo_bypass_valve_for_audi_porsche_vw/

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/ebdv18-s.htm

http://www.supremepowerparts.com/products/prod_details.aspx?prod_id=5643

Looks good. Boost is the same then?

Ding! Yes. Just way faster transition from Vacuum to Boost. :eyetwitch

My 2001 Kawasaki ZX12R Radiator turn into a SC Intercooler Heat Exchanger Project

Take a look at my second project of the day…Sweeeeet!

Total cost $52 for the radiator and total with materials @ $75 :eyetwitch

Took my car for a drive (30 miles roundtrip) and here is what I logged.

81 degrees Amb Temp
60 MPH
106 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
183 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
65 MPH
106 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
183 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
70 MPH
106 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
183 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
75 MPH
107 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
185 degrees Engine Temp

81 degrees Amb Temp
80 MPH
108 degrees AIT (sensor located after blower)
188 degrees Engine Temp

:eyetwitch

Were the temps significant;y different before?
What happens when you stand on it?

The biggest difference (my son pointed it out) is that my engine temps are a whole lot lower and they crazy drop down after a session of drive it like you stole it mode. Keep in mind that my car has a BHR radiator. I think that the old SC Heat Exchanger was considerably reducing the airflow to the radiator.

Take a look at the video my son took (sorry no sound) while driving from 0 to 132 MPH. Pay attention to the boost (8.3), the steady climb of the IAT and Engine Temp. :eyetwitch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NSm2mmJ0t0

Were the temps significant;y different before?
What happens when you stand on it?

They are about the same but the water flow is (I think) about twice faster than before. The ZX12R radiator inlet/outlet dia are 1 inch reduced to a piece of 3/4 hose to the stock 5/8 hose. :eyetwitch

Airflow through the rad is everything.
I just yanked my Koyo out and put the OE rad back in and saw a dramatic drop in coolant temps.

Your ambient temps are still too low for a real test - especially with that east-coast humidity.
I'll be interested to see the results when your ambient temps are in the upper 90's.

As far as IATs go, that is still high for an intercooled setup at speed, though not unexpected because of the blower outlet temps and the A/W saturation rate.

Take a look at my logger readings and notice the steady climb and descend of the engine water temperatures. :eyetwitch

Airflow through the rad is everything.
I just yanked my Koyo out and put the OE rad back in and saw a dramatic drop in coolant temps.

Your ambient temps are still too low for a real test - especially with that east-coast humidity.
I'll be interested to see the results when your ambient temps are in the upper 90's.

As far as IATs go, that is still high for an intercooled setup at speed, though not unexpected because of the blower outlet temps and the A/W saturation rate.

My next AutoX is next week (May 18) and I’ll post more data after the event. :eyetwitch

Any further BHR parts development for Pettit S/C kits will be by special order only.

I would like to place a special order. A reni 20b please. Oh yeah do you think I can have it by sunday I want to give it to my wife for mothers day.:lol:

on the serious side whats the status of the coil upgrade kit.

Does the bypass valve on the S/C kit vent back into the MAF housing?

I would like to place a special order. A reni 20b please. Oh yeah do you think I can have it by sunday I want to give it to my wife for mothers day.:lol:

It’s that all? To me it equates to taking my wife out for dinner at Taco Smell and giving her gumball machine jewelry. How about adding a BHRs Heat Exchanger upgrade, SC Pulley Kit upgrade and to top it off a BHR Radiator. Now THAT will make her real happy plus mega points for an upcoming night with the guys at the local strip joint. Needless to say you will be waking up in the morning a much happier man. :naughty: :eyetwitch

Does the bypass valve on the S/C kit vent back into the MAF housing?

Nope. It vents to the back of the supercharger (pre-compress) area. :eyetwitch

Juan. Are you going to try some of the springs with your new valve?? As you allready know, Phil is reporting 13-14lbs. I'm excited(and I hope others are also) to possibly learn this is reproducible by simply changing the valve.

It’s that all? To me it equates to taking my wife out for dinner at Taco Smell and giving her gumball machine jewelry. How about adding a BHRs Heat Exchanger upgrade, SC Pulley Kit upgrade and to top it off a BHR Radiator. Now THAT will make her real happy plus mega points for an upcoming night with the guys at the local strip joint. Needless to say you will be waking up in the morning a much happier man. :naughty: :eyetwitch

Juan you read my mind but that list is my father's day list. I would just be adding the Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD07 275 30 18 all the way around. You now we need rubber for protection. lol

You now we need rubber for protection. lol

Nice! :eyetwitch

Oh! and also to keep the gene pool safe. :rollingla

Juan. Are you going to try some of the springs with your new valve?? As you allready know, Phil is reporting 13-14lbs. I'm excited(and I hope others are also) to possibly learn this is reproducible by simply changing the valve.

Nope. Phil is running 13-14lbs because he has a 4 port engine and it was explained right after he posted those figures.

I talked to Cam and he explained to me that the reason for not loading a spring is to led some of the compressed air bleed back into the blower while cruising thus keeping the engine temps down, compressor noise down and it also saves fuel. Once you step on the gas the valve shuts immediately regardless if you have as spring installed or not. :eyetwitch

Nice! :eyetwitch

Oh! and also to keep the gene pool safe. :rollingla

Hahahahaha I have to give it to you you got me with that one. I totally understand the not wanting to have a squadron of "MuNcH-E"s running aroud.:lol: :lol: :lol:

substained high speed driving is the real test here --not a sprint .Although very useful and good info you really need to get on track to verify the cooling capacity while you have good air flow. City driving is another story.
Juan have you upgraded the water pump? It does make a difference. The coolant temps are not in range with really hard driving--you need to be at about 210f for that.
All this is without the w/m system---right?
Curious ---what is too high intake temp? What range are we speaking off and why?
oh by the way just picked up a turboxs bypass valve(bosch replacement type) at Summit---i had coupons!!! To install along with a new fuel pump tonight. new fuel pump just for the hell of it.
OD

OD, did you buy the valve that is infinately adjustable, or with springs??

spring with washers--billet composite and brushed aluminum in color
OD

OD, I hate to be the berror of bad news but that bypass leaks air so your idle is going to be higher. We have one that we tryed at the shop, thats how I know.

substained high speed driving is the real test here --not a sprint .Although very useful and good info you really need to get on track to verify the cooling capacity while you have good air flow. City driving is another story.
Juan have you upgraded the water pump? It does make a difference. The coolant temps are not in range with really hard driving--you need to be at about 210f for that.
All this is without the w/m system---right?
Curious ---what is too high intake temp? What range are we speaking off and why?
oh by the way just picked up a turboxs bypass valve(bosch replacement type) at Summit---i had coupons!!! To install along with a new fuel pump tonight. new fuel pump just for the hell of it.
OD

“substained high speed driving is the real test here --not a sprint .Although very useful and good info you really need to get on track to verify the cooling capacity while you have good air flow. City driving is another story.”

Most of my driving is highway and AutoX. Very little city driving and there is not road course tracks near my location (which BTW is a whole different ball game) as you point it out. I can’t make my car an all-purpose RX8 (road race, ¼ mile drag strip, Autocross, street daily driving, etc.) unless someone is willing to support my home budget. Therefore, for now I concentrate on AutoX and I’m sure that I will never see road course temps unless I win the lotto.

“Juan have you upgraded the water pump?”

Water pump will be upgraded as soon as the current one dies.

“All this is without the w/m system---right?”

Meth does not activate during cruising or moderate driving. It only activates during aggressive driving or WOT mode. You should know that. :eyetwitch

spring with washers--billet composite and brushed aluminum in color
OD

Give it try but as Moon stated it does leak. Cam sent me one last year to test it and the same happened to me.

I you purchase the eBay one today; you should have by Thursday unless you are looking for bling-bling under the hood. It works great, made of billet CNC aluminum, powder coated black inside and out, fits perfect and the best part is that will not cost you an arm and a leg. :eyetwitch

Sorry Juan---didnt know if you had the w/m activated or not.
Certainly understand track access --price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover. cutting back myself --a lot. Great data you are putting out by the way.
I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.
my new valve will leak? I hope I have different results, but thanks for the heads up and I certainly will be looking out for this. At least i got it at Summit Racing and they do not question returns.
Did yall run it without the spring? I kept the spring but I cut it to make a 5 lb'er out of it. So far it has been doing really great. My bosh was really leaking--I think--didnt seem like it was sealing.
This valve's piston does not have o rings, so oiling is important---also the vacuum fitting is also small--so i upgraded that.
I kept the spring in it because i couldn't see how in the position we mount, it would work without it . Cross fingers:)
Juan thanks for the source--if this doesnt work i will hook up with that.!
OD

Sorry Juan---didnt know if you had the w/m activated or not.
Certainly understand track access --price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover. cutting back myself --a lot. Great data you are putting out by the way.
I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.
my new valve will leak? I hope I have different results, but thanks for the heads up and I certainly will be looking out for this. At least i got it at Summit Racing and they do not question returns.
Did yall run it without the spring? I kept the spring but I cut it to make a 5 lb'er out of it. So far it has been doing really great. My bosh was really leaking--I think--didnt seem like it was sealing.
This valve's piston does not have o rings, so oiling is important---also the vacuum fitting is also small--so i upgraded that.
I kept the spring in it because i couldn't see how in the position we mount, it would work without it . Cross fingers:)
Juan thanks for the source--if this doesnt work i will hook up with that.!
OD
The one that Ray got me does not leak any air and my idle is the same as when Jeff set it up (a little lower than he wanted it). Good luck.

“price of gas now = at least $250-300 to get to the track -run the w/e and to get home. Then of course all the other stuff you have to cover.”

Correct and that’s why I’m running a once a month AutoX for now. Total cost per event (everything included) less than $75.

“I think i am going to try the ice in the reservoir trick--just to see what kind of affect it has and for how long.”

I did add almost frozen water to the intercooler reservoir last year at the dyno and it does work but not for to long.

“Did yall run it without the spring?” Currently. Yes.

I did not mod the bypass valve that you are currently using, so that might do the trick. :eyetwitch

just hought you guys might like this

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123706874

Can any one using the DEI Chill Charge give us an update
Thanks

Can any one using the DEI Chill Charge give us an update
Thanks

Great product, period! It helps lower the intercooler water temps and eliminates foaming/bubbles in the reservoir tank. PM Ray and order two bottles. One for your car and the other for mouthwash. :eyetwitch

DEI is indeed better. Just shake a bottle of redline water wetter and shake a bottle of the dei. BIG DIFFERENCE as Juan turned us on too.
You can get the chill charger (pink) or you can get the raditor type(same stuff) but it is blue. Dont use more than recommended--you do need water!
It lower my intake temps over the redline also. I will use it for the radiator next time I change out.
One thing I have seen is that this car does take a while to recover from heat soak---so if you are running--at the end of the event --open that hood!
olddragger
OD

How much does it Ray sell it for?

Why not PM him and find out?:lol2:

:eyetwitch Cause I have been bugging him quite a bit lately.:eyetwitch
lol

just hought you guys might like this

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123706874

nice find Roland!

:eyetwitch Cause I have been bugging him quite a bit lately.:eyetwitch
lol

can you bug him too much.

/thread jack
ray you watching the celtics tonight?

\thread jack

nice find Roland!

Thanks

After I get my ignition upgrade neither will have anything on me lolololol
http://thumbs.streetfire.net/8c9b78b9-5df0-47a9-9aca-9a9601337243.jpg (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1000hp-Viper-Venom-spins_160631.htm)1000hp Viper Venom spins out at 150mph. (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1000hp-Viper-Venom-spins_160631.htm)

Track report---ambient temps 85-89-- high humidity---temps were NOT a problem. I did have to take a couple cool off laps --but hey that is car management---air intake temp once got to 151F but cooled right off .
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger

Track report---ambient temps 85-89-- high humidity---temps were NOT a problem. I did have to take a couple cool off laps --but hey that is car management---air intake temp once got to 151F but cooled right off .
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger

sounds awesome Denny....
do we have any vids?

Afraid not-- i am digitally challenged---in all my years on track i have never gotten a vid. I need to do that.
OD

Track report---ambient temps 85-89-- high humidity---temps were NOT a problem. I did have to take a couple cool off laps --but hey that is car management---air intake temp once got to 151F but cooled right off .
I passed cars that were not expecting a pass on the straights! A new model vette(not the z06!) did NOT pull me at all.
I could go on and on-- I had much to learn about my throttle input!
Most important the kit/engine was SOLID--no probs---i do wish i had used a little more oil--the lower rpms influenced that I suppose.
olddragger

Nice going OD :)

I'll bet you feel a whole lot better now. :eyetwitch

Roger that---more info to come
OD

ok some things I saw----!!
This kit helps this car to be fast! MUCH faster. My straight a way speed on the front stretch at Roebling increased to about 138mph(hood was shaking as there was a good crosswind). Before the s.c. my best speed was about 125-126. That extra 12 mph changes everything.
before i was in 5th gear at approx 7.5-8K now i am in 6th gear and pulling strong to the breaking zone(hehe).
So everything has changed--braking zones are different, chassis balance is difference(nose up a lot more on accel now), shifting is different because i now use the higher gears, throttle input and lift is totally changed, but one Good thing I'm using less gas(lower rpms overall!!)
Ok you get the picture.
temps--- 1st day the highest ambient temps were approx 85F with approx 50 humidity. Coolant and oil temps were very good at max of 195-200 and 190 respectfully. Air intake temps measured at the upper in intake manifold(post charger) was highest at 141F. And once the temps get up (a/w intercooler temps) it took a while to get it down. The car was starting to feel noticeably down on power by then. I also think i am getting some boost leak as the power in the upper rpm's (over 6.5) seemed to be not as strong. I was shifting mostly at 7 to 7.2 K--running a short tire (17's). But still the car was fast as hell, couldnt believe the accel in 6th gear.
day 2---max ambients at 89-90 , humidity at 80-90 %(light rain for a short period). Max coolant temps at 215-220 and oil at 210. Now i swapped the heat exchanger to ray's version and i was running hard(temps indicate this!). My intake temps increased to 151F---hotter day and running harder---ok. Now the good part was that I could cool it off in about 1/2 the time it would have taken. In just a short period it was in the 130's. THERE IS A SHARP DROP IN POWER ONCE INTAKE TEMPS GET TO 145f.
During all of this i had my water meth system going.
Ok --also heat soak in the a/f intercooler is a problem. the engine etc really heats the water left in that area after you turn it off and it takes a while to cool that amount of coolant off. We may need a "turbo timer "type of switch for this a/w intercooler to combat this heat soak problem.
Ray heat exchanger is much bigger and thicker. Really sweet piece of work. I am entertaining the idea of a shroud and dual fans for it. Studys i have read indicate this does NOT block airflow even at high speed.
I need bigger tires!!!!!!!! No doubt about that. i am running hoosiers 17' 225/45(hoosiers run wide they are as wide as a 235 in other brands).
Need stronger rear shocks --she is getting tail happy on braking again(the higher speed and more chassis movement now).
BUT THE MAIN THING--THE KIT AND ENGINE WAS SOLID--NO OIL LEAKS, NO BLOW BY, NO ENGINE LIGHTS, NO REAL TEMP PROBS---ITS SOLID.
OD

^^

awesome Denny....sounds like a lot of fun with a great running machine!!
job well done!!!

:D:

track for the win!

Ok --also heat soak in the a/f intercooler is a problem. the engine etc really heats the water left in that area after you turn it off and it takes a while to cool that amount of coolant off. We may need a "turbo timer "type of switch for this a/w intercooler to combat this heat soak problem.
Ray heat exchanger is much bigger and thicker. Really sweet piece of work. I am entertaining the idea of a shroud and dual fans for it. Studys i have read indicate this does NOT block airflow even at high speed.

OD

I was just thinking about installing a small HeatEx electric fan that I can turn on along with the small electric A/W pump while in between AutoX runs due to exactly what you mentioned above. My only concern in blocking air flow (mainly) to the radiator while driving. I’m also considering relocating the Mazsport cooling mod sending unit to one of the radiator’s hose (not sure if inlet or outlet). I believe that it will pick water temps more accurately than the current location (small coolant reservoir hose). Any advice will be highly appreciated. :eyetwitch

funny you should mention fans--i just picked upa 10 inch pusher and hopefully install tonight. studies are showing that even at high speed it is of benefit. I wish i could find a timer that would keep the a/w pump going for 1-2 minutes after engine shuts down. A timer NOT based on thermostat readings.
I have modified the container to include a hose from the inlet to the bottom of the tank(I WAS LOOSING PRIME)

More to come.D

OD, any new info on the effectiveness of the BHR heat exchanger and why you were losing your prime? I wonder because Phil hasn't had any problems with the pump "unpriming". I wonder if reversing the flow direction and adding a check valve in the line before the "undercooler" might alleviate the issue?

Since we are talking intercoolers here, I hope it isn't in-apprpriate that I mention the performance I have been getting from my air-air job.

Intake air temps (from MAF) as reported by OBDII = around 60 degrees's C (this seems high, but I'm temporarily using a pod filter in then engine bay).

Blower discharge temps 60 (no boost) to 80 (mild boost) degrees C. As measured by a thermocouple and digital meter.

Post intercooler temps inside plenum = 40 - 42, pretty constant. The actual are temp at the intercooler outlet would be less, judging on the "feel" of the pipework. There is heat soak by the time it gets up to the plenum.

So - 20 degree's cooler than "ambient" as the MAF see's it, and 20 - 40 degrees cooler than the blower discharge.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Since we are talking intercoolers here, I hope it isn't in-apprpriate that I mention the performance I have been getting from my air-air job.

Intake air temps (from MAF) as reported by OBDII = around 60 degrees's C (this seems high, but I'm temporarily using a pod filter in then engine bay).

Blower discharge temps 60 (no boost) to 80 (mild boost) degrees C. As measured by a thermocouple and digital meter.

Post intercooler temps inside plenum = 40 - 42, pretty constant. The actual are temp at the intercooler outlet would be less, judging on the "feel" of the pipework. There is heat soak by the time it gets up to the plenum.

So - 20 degree's cooler than "ambient" as the MAF see's it, and 20 - 40 degrees cooler than the blower discharge.

Cheers,
Hymee.

:eyetwitch:

Cooler?

So you've basically got a two rotor supercharged refrigerator. Which is really cool, pun intended:) . Is this an active cooler connected to a cooling circuit, i.e. A/C pump?

No. Not at all. Actual ambient temps outside the car - that is going through the intercooler is cooling the intake air down cooler than what it is as seen by the MAF. Note - I'm not using a true CAI at the moment while I make an adaptor to the stock air box, hence I am getting abnormally high (IMHO) intake temps from engine bay air.

Cheers,
Hymee.

If you could make one that made Slushies that would be great. I can sell the slushies to the kids in the neighborhood or the track to help pay for gas!!

If you could make one that made Slushies that would be great. I can sell the slushies to the kids in the neighborhood or the track to help pay for gas!!
That's one of your better ideas:lol: :)

I think your right, I know you must be right since I thought about it all by self and now need to take some Excedrine for the head ache. lol

hymee
are you measuring any direct temps post blower?
More to come concerning intercoolers.
OD

hymee
are you measuring any direct temps post blower?
More to come concerning intercoolers.
OD


I have one thermocouple mounted INSIDE the discharge port of the blower, and one thermocouple mounted INSIDE the intake plenum. So yes - I am doing it in 2 places. I could mount a third one in the outlet port of the intercooler, and it would be even cooler again, as there is heat soak between the intercooler and the plenum.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Ok I am with ya now--sorry for my confusion---yours is a drawthrough type also. that some mighty fine postblower temps. The way i am figuing you are seeing approx 100F intake temps on a very hot day/low humidity(?) with mod boost? Is that is the range for us F freaks who still use a/f's and not lamda!
olddragger

Old school cool?

Has anyone used water mist/spray nozzles in front of the radiator/heat exchangers to provide a quick cool down?
If you are in competition, use a finer mist to avoid any drips. (you'll get disqualified for drips)

na i use a water meth system.
OD

Just got back from dynoing my car. First on a Dynomite Dyno. Ambient temp 91 degrees and 52% humidity. The dyno oxygen sensor broke before a got to the dyno location therefore no A/F readings. Only whp, torque and rpm. I has told by the shop owner that the dynamite dyno readings are lower than the dynojet. But just to compare there were several NA rx8s that dynoed before me (I was the last one for the day) and the best whp attained was 174 whp with I believe CAI and aftermarket exhaust. So my best whp out of 3 pulls was 272 @ 8000 rpm. :eyetwitch

I added a cooling fan located in front of my ZX12R heat exchanger to help cooling while the engine is off, at idle and in between runs when doing autocross. It turns on along with the intercooler water pump in order to cool down the intercooler. I installed an on/off switch for it and is located where the push start button was supposed to be. See pixs below. :eyetwitch

I relocated the mazport cooling fan mod sensor (same hose) closer to the cooling thermostat housing for better/quicker response to coolant temp thus turning the radiators fans quicker than before. Cooling is everything! :eyetwitch

Also, want to know how good is my BHR radiator?

I was cruising at 80 mph on I-4, A/C on, ambient temp 93 and engine temp 214 then I exited the interstate and by the time I got to the stop sign (less than 15 seconds) my engine temp was 204. That is 10 degrees drop in less than 15 seconds and a reduction on airflow due to bringing the car to a complete stop. Simply amazing! You should get one for Father Day, operators are standing by. :eyetwitch

it is really puzzling to me---at 80 mph at 90f with the a/c on my coolant temps are less than 195F and oil temps at 180, and my intake temps at 116-117 or so. But around town I will get the same engine temps but the air intake will be 30-40 degrees higher if I dont use the water meth or extra fan i installed.
Rays intercooler HAS to be more efficent but my intake temps actually went up with it on. maybe it is flowing to fast?
So i am in the process of chasing fleas. I found one thing---the return hose to the water tank rest on the alternator (it gets really hot!)and is in one of the hottest parts of the engine bay. So i am doing some work there--let yall know what I find out---it is 93F here today
olddragger

Nice work guys.

na i use a water meth system.
OD

I use methanol under load too, the spray to wet the radiator and the heat exchangers are for idling in traffic!

:)

well shielding that hose has made a little difference---damn alternator was 150? on its surface so it heat soaks everything around it quickly. The blow off valve was 155F right after parking also.
Now I also did the trick venting of the oem hood . By the time i had finished it all (as this involve thinking and I am not really fast with that:)) the sun had set and the day had cooled some---went to my girls high school state championship game(they won---woo hooo!!) and then it was night ---so no fair comparisons yet -- My intake air tonight with ambient of 75 was 93F driving on a 45mph road approx 10 miles and having to stop at redlights etc.
I may also reinstall Rays intercooler WITH A FAN to see if that is makes a difference.
More to come
OD

well shielding that hose has made a little difference---damn alternator was 150? on its surface so it heat soaks everything around it quickly. The blow off valve was 155F right after parking also.
Now I also did the trick venting of the oem hood . By the time i had finished it all (as this involve thinking and I am not really fast with that:)) the sun had set and the day had cooled some---went to my girls high school state championship game(they won---woo hooo!!) and then it was night ---so no fair comparisons yet -- My intake air tonight with ambient of 75 was 93F driving on a 45mph road approx 10 miles and having to stop at redlights etc.
I may also reinstall Rays intercooler WITH A FAN to see if that is makes a difference.
More to come
OD

ah,

back to hood venting.. very intuitive denny..

someone needs to ring the bell on that..

beers :beer:

ah,

back to hood venting.. very intuitive denny..

someone needs to ring the bell on that..

beers :beer:

I did the DIY hood venting trick with removing the weatherstripping and propping up the back of the hood slightly a month or so ago. It seems for me there is no effect on intake temps. I also didn't notice anything with the DEI chill charge additive-- maybe I mixed too much. Going from parallel plumbing of the stock Pettit heat exchangers to series seems to have slightly worsened AIT. My prediction is that the biggest factors in AIT without meth is in our water pump flow rate and heat soak in our aluminum post-intercooler/pre AIT sensor piping.

On another note, I just bought my wife a '94 RX7 with a slightly upgraded engine (bridge ported, upgraded exhaust/intake/IC, stock twin turbos) and we were playing cat and mouse on the street and highway against our S/C 8 recently. The 7 is faster (currently set to 13 psi), but really only slightly. I was surprised just how well the S/C 8 could keep up when forays were limited to mostly street legal speeds. However, once the secondary turbo on the 7 kicks on in 3rd gear, the 7 really starts to pull away fast, but the noticeable lack of lag of the S/C compared to the 7 does make for some very close matchups depending on starting speed and gear.

Corner balance/Autocross alignment

Can anyone recommend a good location (preferably from experience) in the greater Tampa-Lakeland-Orlando area that can perform this service? :eyetwitch

i have been wondering about the series versus parallel plumbing---i had wondered why pettit did it that way. well it's summer and time for experiments:). But one thing at the time. Temps will be hot today and I plan on seeing if the small stuff is helping any.
Venting the hood i think may help with heat soaking some--dont know--better help somewhere as i dont like smelling the engine when i use the a/c.
OD

i have been wondering about the series versus parallel plumbing---i had wondered why pettit did it that way. well it's summer and time for experiments:). But one thing at the time. Temps will be hot today and I plan on seeing if the small stuff is helping any.
Venting the hood i think may help with heat soaking some--dont know--better help somewhere as i dont like smelling the engine when i use the a/c.
OD

The reason why Cam ran the hoses that way (parallel) is to double the diameter flow of water thru the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger included in the kit is only 3/8” in/out diameter tubing. Therefore, you basically double that diameter to 6/8” or ¾” diameter. Otherwise by running the line from one heat exchanger to the other (in series) you will end up reducing the water flow (3/8” diameter in/out instead of ¾”). :eyetwitch

I did the DIY hood venting trick with removing the weatherstripping and propping up the back of the hood slightly a month or so ago.

This is good only if the car is not moving but while driving the negative pressure crated over the hood will actually disrupt the intended front to rear airflow (under the bumper opening, thru the radiator and out bottom of engine bay). Last year while at Pettit I asked that question to Cam (removing the weather strip). He showed me a computer model diagram on the airflow effects on an RX8. It clearly showed (visually) the effects of wind resistance, airflow pattern and pressure points. In other words, don’t take the weathers strip off unless you are planning to sit on a parking lot. :eyetwitch

On another note, I just bought my wife a '94 RX7 with a slightly upgraded engine (bridge ported, upgraded exhaust/intake/IC, stock twin turbos) and we were playing cat and mouse on the street and highway against our S/C 8 recently. The 7 is faster (currently set to 13 psi), but really only slightly. I was surprised just how well the S/C 8 could keep up when forays were limited to mostly street legal speeds. However, once the secondary turbo on the 7 kicks on in 3rd gear, the 7 really starts to pull away fast, but the noticeable lack of lag of the S/C compared to the 7 does make for some very close matchups depending on starting speed and gear.

Must be the driver but regardless who’s driving either car, my money is on the wife hands down. :eyetwitch

hooking the i/c hoses that way will do as you say but doesnt the actual completed volume of flow through the intercooler remain the same? Given a certain size of cooler the flow cannot be increased without increasing the pressure, but i do I admit i am learning here.
i also understand what the studies show on the airflow thing with the hood.
It does work with low speed/city. suburban driving. Getting to higher speeds say over 70mph and then the flow is more disrupted, but the affect is minimal. Not only do you remove the strip but you also slightly raise the back of the hood.
Do this--measure the temperature of the surface of say your fuse box top with a little laser temperature gun--then take the strip off(it comes off easily and you can put it back on easily) and elevate the back of your hood with the thing of your choice. Now do the same drive again and see what you find out.
OD

OK found my own answer----and what others have been TRYING to tell me!!!!!!!
The longer you keep the water in the ic's the better. If the flow is to fast and this is what hooking them up in series will do, the water does not have a chance to cool it as much. So the pettit way is the best way---as usual. Oh well I learn all the time:banghead: I guess it is time to figure out how to hook them back up in parallel while keeping enough room to keep my rb intake duct.
Honey oh Honey can you take the front clip off for me AGAIN!:iwstupid:
olddragger

This is good only if the car is not moving but while driving the negative pressure crated over the hood will actually disrupt the intended front to rear airflow (under the bumper opening, thru the radiator and out bottom of engine bay). Last year while at Pettit I asked that question to Cam (removing the weather strip). He showed me a computer model diagram on the airflow effects on an RX8. It clearly showed (visually) the effects of wind resistance, airflow pattern and pressure points. In other words, don’t take the weathers strip off unless you are planning to sit on a parking lot. :eyetwitch

Lets not get this debate started again.
Its already been conclusively proven by more than a few people that removing the strip and slightly raising the back of the hood lowers engine bay temps under ALL conditions, regardless of speed.

Lets not get this debate started again.
Its already been conclusively proven by more than a few people that removing the strip and slightly raising the back of the hood lowers engine bay temps under ALL conditions, regardless of speed.

Yes, I agree with you but not on the RX8. See pixs below of my R100 raised hood. I don't have an undertray on it, therefore airflow and engine bay heat escapes thru the back of the hood gap. However, after watching the computer animation graphic it was very clear to me that the negative pressure created over the end of the hood area will actually draw air in from the back of the hood into the engine bay (unless you are running an aftermarket hood with vents on the top) BUT it will not allow proper airflow into the engine bay from the front of the car. On another note, I saw an RX8 at the dyno shop with no undertray. That is a big no-no. Regardless, I tried a while back removing the weather strip and did not see/noticed any engine or IAT temp drop. BTW Jeff your avatar collection needs a serious overhaul (too many repeats). In lieu to that I’m including an avatar for your new collection. Enjoy :eyetwitch

I don't care what the computer simulation says - that isn't how it actually works.
Reality trumps theory every time.

Must be the driver but regardless who’s driving either car, my money is on the wife hands down. :eyetwitch

:lol2:

Actually, my wife was driving the 7 during all this. I drove the 7 today. I no longer think our 8 is even close. I think she was shifting early and too slow and loosing all the boost. The FD really is stupid fast. My wife took one of her girl friends out for a drive with it today and the acceleration skipped right past "fun" and instead provoked genuine fear from her passenger.

Re: the whole vented hood -- for what its worth -- I didn't notice any difference good/bad in coolant temps either. I seem to always run a fairly typical 180-195 with and without hood venting. The software Pettit uses to analyze the aerodynamics sounds neat. Even if it only helps when stopped, I think I'll still keep the weatherstrip off as my coolant temps still are ok and I like the idea of better ventilation to deal with heat soak after parking.

Juan, what would a proper vented hood do (ie a new hood with actual vent slots, rather than OEM with raised rear)? look pretty or achieve better temps?

Or is it an unknown?

My wife took one of her girl friends out for a drive with it today and the acceleration skipped right past "fun" and instead provoked genuine fear from her passenger.

Nice! :eyetwitch I like your wife already. :lol:

Juan, what would a proper vented hood do (ie a new hood with actual vent slots, rather than OEM with raised rear)? look pretty or achieve better temps?

Or is it an unknown?

A vented aftermarket hood allows engine bay heat to escape while at idle/slow speeds and at high speed it will draw the hot air out of the engine bay due to vacuum effect as long as the holes at not to close to the windshield where negative pressure develops at high speed. :eyetwitch

well you see i agree about the negative pressure and all that but you have to admit that outside air will be going into the engine bay regardless of source, front or back, and there is no overheating going on to imply that the normal front to back flow is seriously disrupted.
We are speaking of cooling the engine bay--this will not have any effect on iat except maybe a little less heat soak.
The vented hood (father up front) is actually designed to help cool the radiator by letting the flow through the front clip /radiator have a faster escape AND therefore adverting that hot flow from the engine bay. In that manner it also helps cool the entire engine bay.
But we have factual measurements (like MM says)that the vent trick does lower engine bay temps without causing overheating issues. There are better more efficient ways for sure, but this works some. Before i installed the s.c. kit I did this and measured a 10 degree drop on the top of my coil packs.
By the way i diverted the out coolant hose away from the alternator and i did the hood trick. My iat's were much lower but I also was not running the a/c this time. Still the iat was only 18F above ambient of 87F. I think the humidity is a little less today, but that is the lowest difference between iat and ambient i have ever had (since the days have been above 80F). It is really hard to compare apples to apples this way.
olddragger

OD

Here is what I did to my intercooler hoses. I'm not sure yet if it will help keeping some of the engine heat away from the hoses but for less than $1.50 is worth trying, I think. :eyetwitch

Thats a cool idea--pun intented:) Everything helps. I am working on some ideas. By the way I will be sending the intercooler to ya--i found that if you tilt it more than approx 15 degrees then hardly any airflow comes through(using just a reg house fan)--i can provide more details.
Here is something interesting--------------------------------------------------
This morning ambient at 74F. I hooked a temp probe up to the air filter(I do have the rb air scoop on). I started out to work--regular 45 mph stop light traffic and very little trafdfic this a.m. The temp on the air filter was 77-78F. Air scoop doing it's job right? Engine temps were normal etc. OK i get closer to the hospital i work at and it gets to be more city type driving --right? Had to stop at a couple of red lights---temps slowly creep up to the low 90's but cools SLOWLY when i start moving. Thats ok i am thinking.( By the way iat's in low 90'sF). Ok I get to the parking deck and have to go up in 2nd gear --4 decks--- speed limit 10mph--when i park the car I look at the air temp of the intake filter and it has climbed to 137 degrees F!!!! Holy Mother of God----Bingo! Now THERES a problem as it would take a long time to cool that off again. The iat had climded to 109F.
So at low speed ---BIG HEAT SOAK PROMBLEM OF THE INCOMING AIR.
Guess what my next project is going to be?:uhh:
We may need to chase more than one squirrel here:stickpoke
Now people without the rb air duct---just imangine what is happening?:squint:
olddragger

ok, im new to the RX8 world. but always loved them, soi finally got one. it is only being used to do rallys around the country. In the futer i will be adding alot more power. Where would i be able to pick up this SC and where is there a shop that could install? I live in CT but will travel to have it installed right.

Must Read! :banghead:

This particular SC talked about in this thread is by www.pettitracing.com and they are located very near Palm Beach, Florida.
However, there are probably a few people that would come and install it in Conn. for you.

theres 86 pages thats alot lol

Valid point. I guess I've been lucky enough to keep somewhat up on it since day one. :uhh:

Not much to keep up on. A few pages of solid info and the rest is normal internet forum "stuff".

Valid point. I guess I've been lucky enough to keep somewhat up on it since day one. :uhh:

Your warranty should be close to halfway over by now... so have you decided on a date to get FI'ed yet?

How's the foot?

this kit is a Pettit S.c. shop is based in florida
OD

What is "FI" rember im new to rotory but if i had to guess fuel injected but it could be something diff.

What is "FI" rember im new to rotory but if i had to guess fuel injected but it could be something diff.

rotary.

FI is forced induction, meaning forcibly shoving more air into the engine, burning more fuel, and increasing power.

thank you

What is "FI" rember im new to rotory but if i had to guess fuel injected but it could be something diff.

This is a good thread to read if you're interested in forced induction:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=122645

ya i will be in the future. I have loved the way SC have been better than turbos. my first nod will be full exausht and intake. and then im kinda at a loss for what to do next really. Im only looking to run about 350 RWHP. all i will be doing is cross country rallys. so i fig w/ header back exausht and the SC with a few other monds i should be good and then worry about locking it to the ground

Im only looking to run about 350 RWHP.


so i fig w/ header back exausht and the SC with a few other monds i should be good and then worry about locking it to the ground

Drugs are bad.

ya i will be in the future. I have loved the way SC have been better than turbos. my first nod will be full exausht and intake. and then im kinda at a loss for what to do next really. Im only looking to run about 350 RWHP. all i will be doing is cross country rallys. so i fig w/ header back exausht and the SC with a few other monds i should be good and then worry about locking it to the ground

We'll let you know when someone can do that reliably with a twin-screw kit.

Really? why is that.

Really? why is that.

If you must ask, you aren't ready for the answer.
Any idea of how much air it takes to make 350 RWHP?
Got a flow map for the SC handy?

Really? why is that.

Jeff's answer was nonsense. I have the true answer:

It's because no one can be told what the Matrix is.

So, between the turbo option and the supercharger option which one is the red pill and which one is the blue pill?

Now you are getting all Lewis Carroll on me.

Down the rabbit hole we go...

so who has the highest amount of WHP on here then if 350 is not reasonable

350 is PERFECTLY reasonable... with the proper turbo kit.

AFAIK there is no SC kit for this car that produces 350WHP

350 WHP requires significant extra upgrading of the engine, ie fuel system and ignition sytem and fuel injectors) to be viable with any forced induction kit, as it goes beyond the OEM cars limits....

Therefore any kit aiming for these numbers must address all these extra issues as well....

350 WHP requires significant extra upgrading of the engine, ie fuel system and ignition sytem and fuel injectors) to be viable with any forced induction kit, as it goes beyond the OEM cars limits....

Therefore any kit aiming for these numbers must address all these extra issues as well....

ah, touche... fixed...

350whp is PERFECTLY reasonable... with the proper turbo.... (which there are more than one directly marketed for this car that flow enough air to produce well over 350whp)

AFAIK there is no SC marketed for this car that flows enough air to produce 350WHP

so who has the highest amount of WHP on here then if 350 is not reasonable

~307 rwhp has been done with this kit, but if I were you I would read everything in that link posted above, and a bunch of other threads in that same forum before I even think about forced induction. It can get pretty expensive very quickly if you or someone who installs/tuned it does something wrong, so you better know what you're dealing with when you make your decision.

Ahh!

And the SC hater squad strikes again. May I recommend some anger management therapy. I, on the other hand tried it but to no avail, therefore I decided to work with explosives for a living thus allowing me to concentrate more in not becoming a cloud of pink mist rather than vent my frustrations in the Pettit Super Charger Owner’s thread.

Anyway, as a Mazda Rotary enthusiast (previous owner of an RX4, GSLSE RX7, GTU RX7 and current owner of a 13B Bridge Ported all motor 11.96 seconds quarter mile R100 and SC RX8) I can give a rats ass about what direction you might want to go (SC, Turbo, Nitrous) in order to enhance the power of your NA (Normally Aspirated) RX8 engine. The SC option will not (as of today) allow you to achieve your 350 whp goal but on the other hand will provide a reliable and smooth acceleration hence my decision to go with the SC kit.

However, if you would like to go with the Turbo option then I’ll recommend doing some serious internal engine modifications like (race spec bearings, stationary gears, housings lapping, rotor side clearance, engine balancing, etc.) and the usual external engine modifications (fuel pump, fuel injectors, upgrade ignition, etc.) before trying to achieve your 350 whp goal since the Renesis engine was not designed to handle that much HP. Also, don’t forget to upgrade your suspension and brake components since it will be needed in order to handle the additional HP.

With the SC kit you will not have to do all of the above since the stock engine is capable to handle the additional 60-100 additional HP provided by the kit and not to mention the get in start your car and go.

As an example last Saturday I found out that there was a dyno day at a local shop in Tampa. Got in my car drove 45 minutes to the location, put the car on the dyno, made three passes in a row (the second with the meth kit off), dyno’s A/F air fuel gauge was not operational (no problem), achieved 98 more whp than the best NA RX8 that dynode the same day, no detonation, no mysterious oil leaks, the guy that sat on the car while on the dyno was amazed with the smooth yet strong acceleration, the owner of the shop begged me to take the car for a spin (which I let him do afterward), got back on the car, did a 135 mph pass on I-4, got home, parked the car and enjoyed the rest of the day.

From the Pettit Racing website:

Highlights:

- 60-100 additional horsepower and torque with only 5-8 psi boost
- Superb drivability and overall performance
- Reliable and easy to maintain
- D.I.Y. installation, with easy to follow instructions
- Only the highest quality components

The Stage II CS Kit can produce 300 whp and 195 lb/ft torque @ 5-7psi. Most of the added hp is a result of recalibrating the factory PCM. Other benefits include: Superb drivability, and clean smooth rock solid acceleration through the entire RPM range. Also with the stock PCM and OBD II diagnostics system fully functional there is no ck engine light unless something is wrong. Most OBD II compatible scan tools can perform full system scans and clear codes and the Mazda dealer can still perform full service with the kit installed as well. Our latest testing on 5 different RX8’s has consistently yielded 278 - 300 whp through the stock exhaust with the latter using a hi flow cat. We will continue testing other combinations; like the stock cat with performance cat back system etc, etc.

Take a look at the dyno sheet below (note that the engine was reved up to only 8,000 rpm per the dyno owner mandate) but it is capable to achieve 9,000 rpm easily since I have a very conservative PCM flash. Basically as stated by Pettit, an additional 60-100 whp, @ 195 lb/ft torque. All that with the stock fuel pump and fuel injectors.

My best advice is read, learn, decide which route you want to go and never ever put a piston engine on a Mazda Rotary car. :eyetwitch

Your warranty should be close to halfway over by now... so have you decided on a date to get FI'ed yet?

How's the foot?


Think the warranty(except for drivetrain) is over in December(I think).....need to check on this and will this week.
Foot sucks! Next date is June 3rd to see if I graduate to a walking cast. :banghead: Drove down to Vero this weekend via A1A and wasn't too terribly bad, but still have Auto rental.

And the SC hater squad strikes again. May I recommend some anger management therapy.

The problem is poorly engineered hardware. Stuff like generating boost at idle, requiring an induced vacuum leak to fix are hacks that shouldn't exist to begin with. By your same logic, the people who are "SC haters" are also turbo haters because they applied the same criticisms towards kits like the GReddy. The end result is that we have a trial by fire with customer cars till the bugs are worked out. In the end we might have workable solutions, but things could have been done correctly from the start. Hymee's SC has a clutch on the SC btw.


The SC option will not (as of today) allow you to achieve your 350 whp goal but on the other hand will provide a reliable and smooth acceleration hence my decision to go with the SC kit.

Compressed air is compressed air. I still want to hear why people keep throwing around words like "reliable" in regards to superchargers. Does the SC soften the air before entering the engine, causing rounded air molecules which don't wear out engine internals as much? :Eyecrazy:


However, if you would like to go with the Turbo option then I’ll recommend doing some serious internal engine modifications like (race spec bearings, stationary gears, housings lapping, rotor side clearance, engine balancing, etc.) and the usual external engine modifications (fuel pump, fuel injectors, upgrade ignition, etc.) before trying to achieve your 350 whp goal since the Renesis engine was not designed to handle that much HP.

You make it sound like the turbo is a completely different animal. It's the same car, regardless of FI choice. If you approach the 300 whp range, you should upgrade the fuel injectors, since you're close to maxing them out at that point. 330 whp is the point where the ignition system needs to be upgraded. Above that, we know stock engines are running OK on 350 whp. How long they last, we won't know.


no detonation, no mysterious oil leaks

If that comment was directed to me, I can guarantee that without changing your SC or fuel management in any way, I can induce detonation in your engine using commonly sold performance upgrades for the RX-8, and installing it exactly as the instructions detail. All this shows is that being the first to try out a performance product is never the best idea if you value your engine's longevity.


My best advice is read, learn, decide which route you want to go and never ever put a piston engine on a Mazda Rotary car. :eyetwitch

My advice is to not claim bashing on one side, then do it to the other. We're all RX-8 owners with the same goal. I don't speak well of the GReddy kit either, and I don't see the greddy kit owners taking it personally. I even own that kit! (or at least, parts of it now).


BTW, if you have any plans to get an accessport, you might want to look into our dyno meet in Tampa for the 14th of next month. We need a few more people.

Yes, that comment was directed to you.

Hope you have fun fixing your car while I enjoy my reliable SC RX8. Or you can always donate it to your local charity car donation agency. http://www.kars4kids.org/car-donation-tampa.htm :eyetwitch

Yes, that comment was directed to you.

Hope you have fun fixing your car while I enjoy my reliable SC RX8. Or you can always donate it to your local charity car donation agency.

Are you claiming no Pettit SC vehicle has had their engine blow? Maybe we should start talking about those instead of ignoring it. Hell, even stock engines blow up. And in far greater numbers than FI simply due to there being more of them. You're being disingenuous to claim reliability.

Like I said, come over to my house, we'll install one performance upgrade in your car that is not FI related, and I'll watch as your engine blows up. BTW, my engine still runs normally. I still make more power than you, and I've been FI longer than you too. I'm not even saying this to brag. It's just to illustrate that your argument is false. If you want to get down to it, it's $400 for a brand new front iron and my oil leak stops. But of course we both know my problem wasn't turbo related despite what you're trying to imply. I don't want to make this into a flame fest, maybe you misread my post. Try reading it again: http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2483385&postcount=2173 Nothing in there was an attack on you, even though you're reacting to it as if it were.

Regardless, you're being hypocritical, and you haven't addressed anything I said. Just throwing out a snide comment that isn't based in reality isn't doing anything for you. If you want to discuss, I can do that, otherwise I'm not going to bother responding to comments like this.

Avanti, as you can see from reading the last several posts you're hardly ever going to get unbiased advice from an internet forum.

If you want a twin-screw you should contact Cam or Hymee to inquire about their respective kits.

For a turbo I would contact MM or Scott at Mazsport.

If you dont' feel like shipping or driving your car, I would start looking for a shop that you're comfortable with locally.

~307 rwhp has been done with this kit, but if I were you I would read everything in that link posted above, and a bunch of other threads in that same forum before I even think about forced induction. It can get pretty expensive very quickly if you or someone who installs/tuned it does something wrong, so you better know what you're dealing with when you make your decision.

^^+1^^

Avanti, as you can see from reading the last several posts you're hardly ever going to get unbiased advice from an internet forum.

lol. Unbiased can depend a great deal on your viewpoint :)

You have to admit though, that the internet is a great place to hear people's opinions on things.

Touche. Well "put".

Sorry to hear about your engine man, that sucks. If it's really only $400 bucks to fix then you got lucky. How did that crack get so large without you noticing, didn't you have oil stains in your garage/driveway? Just seems weird that a detonation event would take weeks to spring a leak that large.

“Like I said, come over to my house”

Why should I? I do my own work and don’t need amateurs to look over my shoulder. BTW $400 for a brand new front housing? Does it include labor and related overhauling parts? Oh yes, I now remember, you need people to show up at your place or take the car to a shop to do the work for you. I do my own work (including my own 11.96 sec quarter mile bridge port R100 motor built) and have others come to my house to work on their cars for free. Sorry but you are not welcome.

As far as WHP well I’m very happy with what I got and not interested in going any higher thus the reason why I purchased and installed the kit (by myself) from the beginning. Also, a quote from a 3rd gen 500+ whp single turbo owner with more experience than many of us can imagine after I sent him a copy of my last dyno run sheet.

“It's the reason I don't like people to look at raw dyno number. They change
from dyno to dyno, day to day, operator, weather, etc. The thing that should be
looked at is how flat that tq curve is! I like the hp never flattening out and
just continuing to climb.

I still like the 1/4 mile the best!”

Now back to anger management. Save the $400+ to fix your junk, donate the car and enroll yourself in a anger management course. :eyetwitch

http://www.worldviewpub.com/press_release.htm

Sorry to hear about your engine man, that sucks. If it's really only $400 bucks to fix then you got lucky. How did that crack get so large without you noticing, didn't you have oil stains in your garage/driveway? Just seems weird that a detonation event would take weeks to spring a leak that large.

I'll PM you, it's not related to this thread.

Here's a funny fact; I spoke with Cam the other day and a little bit of it was about the S/C vs. Turbo comparison and neither of us seemed to be so emotionally involved in it. Why do you suppose that was when each of us is involved in offering our own F/I kits?

I don't think it's about SC vs Turbo as much as it is Pettit haters vs Pettit owners.

Here's a funny fact; I spoke with Cam the other day and a little bit of it was about the S/C vs. Turbo comparison and neither of us seemed to be so emotionally involved in it. Why do you suppose that was when each of us is involved in offering our own F/I kits?

Emotional?

I’m currently enjoying a cuban sandwich and a pepsi one while laughing my butt off.

Anyway, after work today a nice ride back home on my Hayabusa (I’ll try to hit 175 mph again) and enjoy a nice Florida afternoon/evening without worrying about the cost to fix my RX8. :eyetwitch

With all the alleged hatin' goin' on around here it's starting to sound like a Rap song. The point to my mentioning the phone call with Cam was to point out that if anybody has a motivation to be critical of one another's stuff it would be the guys whose livelihoods depend on sales of their product. Cam is confident in Pettit's approach as I am of BHR's.

The point is that each system, even when properly tuned, has it's own inherent and/or perceived strengths and weaknesses but the key is that if the OWNERS are happy where does a viable argument arise?

I personally find it disappointing that 4 years ago people laughed at the RX-8 and said things like nitrous, turbos, superchargers, and 300 RWHP were never to be achieved. Now that we are doing this on a fairly regular basis we are going to resume the infighting?

Emotional?

I’m currently enjoying a cuban sandwich and a pepsi one while laughing my butt off.

Anyway, after work today a nice ride back home on my Hayabusa (I’ll try to hit 175 mph again) and enjoy a nice Florida afternoon/evening without worrying about the cost to fix my RX8. :eyetwitch

Dude... 175 on I-4...

can I have your R100 when you are dead?

:lol:

don’t need amateurs to look over my shoulder

you need people to show up at your place

you are not welcome.

to fix your junk, donate the car

Emotional?

enroll yourself in a anger management course. :eyetwitch

You keep talking about others needing anger management, but from what I can see, the only one who needs that advice is yourself. Everyone else is talking calmly without having to resort to personal insults.

There will always be those that believe that theirs is better than yours and your wrong no matter what. Their arguments twist words and ideas into what they wish and unless you are as skilled, will never seem to win. After several of those arguments I decided that it's better just to enjoy my choice. When others ask, I now always say my choice is........

There are good and bad with both. I knew pretty much what I was getting into when I went with Pettit and have never been disappointed in my choice of FI. Are there problems? Hell yes there are. My friends with Turbos have problems also, it's just the nature of the beast.

Marsred100, some of us do not have your technical knowledge and have to rely on others to advise, support and in a lot of cases do the actual work. That does not make us any less of an enthusiast. I asked for help from one gentleman that most think is anti S/C. I found out that MM is not anti s/c and his help has been invaluable. Ray (CHR) was at first perceived to by some to be anti Pettit and I think that has since been proven wrong. Ray's help has also been invaluable and in no way amateurish.

Dude... 175 on I-4...

can I have your R100 when you are dead?

:lol:

Not I-4 but parts of the Tampa Crosstown Expressway (nice smooth road surface and no chance for cops to hide). Are you kidding me? The R100 is also going to be my metal coffin. :eyetwitch

I like cake!!
Oh by the way that torque curve was letting me shift at 6.8k on the track!
olddragger

There will always be those that believe that theirs is better than yours and your wrong no matter what. Their arguments twist words and ideas into what they wish and unless you are as skilled, will never seem to win. After several of those arguments I decided that it's better just to enjoy my choice. When others ask, I now always say my choice is........

There are good and bad with both. I knew pretty much what I was getting into when I went with Pettit and have never been disappointed in my choice of FI. Are there problems? Hell yes there are. My friends with Turbos have problems also, it's just the nature of the beast.

Marsred100, some of us do not have your technical knowledge and have to rely on others to advise, support and in a lot of cases do the actual work. That does not make us any less of an enthusiast. I asked for help from one gentleman that most think is anti S/C. I found out that MM is not anti s/c and his help has been invaluable. Ray (CHR) was at first perceived to by some to be anti Pettit and I think that has since been proven wrong. Ray's help has also been invaluable and in no way amateurish.

Phil don’t get wrapped around the axel. My comments were not directed at anyone but the intended individual and I'm having fun while at it.

Let’s try this again. I don’t care if you like superchargers, turbos, normally aspirated or are a NOS junkie for as long as you enjoy your rotary engine car. Believe me, my next door neighbor owns a pristine 3rd gen with a bad motor and I’m trying to convince him to sell me his car for the last two years. That way I can own a NA, SC and Turbo car.

However, I also enjoy bugging the crap out of non SC RX8 owners that have nothing to offer but bad feedback about the product. To the contrary there are other non SC RX8 owners like Ray that try to point out not only the weak points to the kit but to offer solution/upgrades for it. Yes, I know, every system has its strength and weakness but talking about it and offering no solutions does not help at all. :eyetwitch

I like cake!!
Oh by the way that torque curve was letting me shift at 6.8k on the track!
olddragger

Cake sucks! :lol:
I like pie! :)

Sorry..............I just felt like contributing a completely worthless post today! :uhh:

Cheesecake is oh so yummy
but then again, so is Pecan pie.

What's a guy to do??? :scratchhe

I Like Cherry PIE!!!!lololol

Just as an FYI on my Last tuning Session about a 2 months ago we got more agressive I hit 325whp.

The next time I do a session will be after I add the the BHR ignition upgrade and radiator and switch from watter wetter to the chill charge. With Ray's help (BHR) maybe even my injectors upgraded.

Please don't drill me on technical questions because I won't know.

If you have technical questions you can ask the same people I do that have been very helpful.

Cam,Moon,Ray(Charles R. Hill),Jeff(MM),Juan(Marsredr100),and Myql

wow! You said no technical details, but how much psi, and did you get the chart?

What was the maximum torque??

enough to get me around a modified 350Z and a bunch of others, and the Speed source rx8 could not lose me AND enough to get me back to the paddock for that yummy cake and diet coke.
Check out the vid on the SE thread--Roebling road event ---i think it is page 14. A great guy by the handle of On Rails posted it. The 1st one he posted and a couple of minutes into the vid to will see a red rx8 in front of him(my 1st time on the track with the s.c. kit). On that front straight i was in 6th gear. i was driving VERY conservatively.
I like cangdy too--its dandy.:)
olddragger

Have any decisions been made if the kit will be discontinued? Or will another compressor be used?

What was the maximum torque??

I'm more interested in the charge temps.

^^ Me too....The efficiency at that flow rate should make it a bit of a hair drier

( no slam intended to anyone...just my observation :) )

^^ Me too....The efficiency at that flow rate should make it a bit of a hair drier

( no slam intended to anyone...just my observation :) )

Munche was one if not the first SC with the methanol kit. So I assume that the charge temperatures were reduced by the injection of water/methanol into the intake. He also makes his own mix and as far as I know he does not have a post blower IAT sensor to ascertain the temperatures under boost. :eyetwitch

wow! You said no technical details, but how much psi, and did you get the chart?

I don't have the chart I know it has to be seen to be belived I will make sure I keep the next ones.

I am also going to to a race fuel setup I'll be sure to get both the the dyno charts and the data logs so you guys could dissect the info I don't remember how much PSI. I was to happy with the HP results.

Munche was one if not the first SC with the methanol kit. So I assume that the charge temperatures were reduced by the injection of water/methanol into the intake. He also makes his own mix and as far as I know he does not have a post blower IAT sensor to ascertain the temperatures under boost. :eyetwitch

What I use in my mix is Distilled water and VP Race Fuels M1 and M5

40% Water the Methanol portion is 60% That 60% is comprised of 60%M5 and 40% M1

Munche. Do you have stock injectors?

For now yes Ray is helping me figure out which ones to upgrade to. They are at 85% or so duty cycle

Cool. Does the alcohol mix you're using help you to achieve the higher dyno #'s(besides the obvious cooling effect), or is the aggressive tuning the main reason??

The agressive tuning we did pulls with out the meth and the difference was minor. Dian from EFI Dude leaned out the car and used more agressive timing. I can't wait to see what he does with the Race Fuel.

It takes balls to go to the edge - any particular reason you're doing it?

I've never come remotely close to bleeding edge on mine. But a DD with no track use doesn't need it.

I started going to the track and taking driving classes when possible and I have friends with Highly modded cars so the male ego kicks in.

ah ha. peer pressure :)

I've been to the edge a couple of times. Even though I've survived so far, I allways end up with a nasty case of razor bumbs.

on track iat(measured approx at the upper intake manifold/lower intake junction) 15 laps over approx 20-25 mins was highest at 141F on a 85F day and high humidity at approx 60-70% ( i think). The "Normal range" on track was the high 120's to mid 130's.
rpms ranged from 5k to 7.2 k or so. Speeds from 70mph to 138mph
of course push the rpms up and the iat increases--but the good thing is with the torque curve we have --and my gearing--- made the higher rpms unnecessary.
IAT's are also influenced by heat soak and engine temps--it all works together.
Putting a extra heat shiled between the exhaust header and the lower intake helps a lot.
olddragger
olddragger

Cam and all--- I may have something in regard to intake temps and heat soak issues. I need a little more research/testing but this will be so cool---pun intended.
Olddragger

Meth is great! :eyetwitch :eyetwitch :eyetwitch

I changed the locations of my meth nozzles today. I relocated the pre-blower nozzle from just after the throttle body to the location where the original brake booster vacuum connector that came with the kit was previously located. I noticed a bit of methanol residue from time to time before the throttle butterfly when I had the nozzle located right after the intake throttle body. Also, I changed the location of the post-blower nozzle to just after the blower in order to add more distance before the lower intake thus allowing more time for the proper atomization of the meth. The second nozzle was previously located at the original IAT sensor location that came with the kit. I realized that having it located there was too close to the lower intake and the nozzle spray was only injecting meth into the center (intermediate) housing due to the configuration of the kit upper intake. Currently I’m running a 225ml nozzle in the pre-blower location and 100ml nozzle in the post-blower location. However, it was previously determined (dyno runs at Pettit) that this is too much meth. I already have a 60ml nozzle on its way (thanks to Ray) and I’m going to set it to 100ml nozzle pre-blower and 60ml nozzle post-blower once it get here next week. Some dyno runs will be done later on to determine the best combination. I wish I had a dyno in my garage.

Anyway, check out the videos my son took while testing my new setup. Sorry but my camera has no sound recorder and my son can’t hold the camera steady while I drive in “like you stole it" mode.

The first video shows AIT of 119F and goes down to 103F at the end of the run. I parked the car and let the AIT temp to go up before the run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ws8ThUyRXnI

The second run shows AIT of 111F and goes down to 100F at the end of the run. This run was done after cruising for a few miles.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NObblVL5DE0

Take a look at my 9.0 boost PSI on the first video (14 second time stamp of the video). :eyetwitch

I saw this the other day and thought I should share it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHXw1QkqV9w&feature=related

I saw this the other day and thought I should share it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHXw1QkqV9w&feature=related

Be careful or you might also end up dead. :eek: :eyetwitch

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stan_Meyer

Has anybody had issues with their eccentric shaft sensor? I can't get mine to stop throwing codes.

Do the sensors have a history of going bad??

I've allready done the brake pedal dance multiple times in conjunction with resetting the ecu. Is there anything else I can do besides buying a new one??

PM me with the codes and we can discuss it. We're off-topic here.

Sure I'll pm you, but this is no more off topic than most of the drivel(ie..not vehicle related) posts in this thread and others.

I thought this thread was for blower owners to discuss anything they want, not just stuff about superchargers. Yeh, lots of crank sensors have either failed or have been knocked out of wack. Even adding spacers have helped in some cases. Also most of the time if you pull the sensor and clean it, that works also so you should try that first.

I was trying to be respectful of all of you.;)

The e-shaft sensor is a Hall-effect sensor and wheel assembly which simply sends electrical pulses to the PCM. The sensor, itself, is magnetic in nature. Thus, the first check when we have issues is to be sure there is no debris on the surface of the sensor. The second test is to be sure that the sensor has a resistance of 950-1,250 Ohms at room temperature. This all assumes there is no physical damage to the trigger wheel.

If these tests don't indicate a problem, inspection of the wiring harness is necessary.

Mork, Which codes are you getting?

Cheers,
Hymee.

P0335 and P0336. However, my CEL just went off today even though the codes are still stored in memory.

P0335 Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit problem
P0336 Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem

Have any fluids been spilt on the sensor/connector?

Cheers,
Hymee.

Yeah probably. If not a little oil, then definately some water.

Juan
Where are you measuring your intake temps from? I thought you were doing it from the old peittit site on the upper manifold? But I noticed you said that you had an injector there and that you were going to move it?
I only had a 225 pre blower. Today i changed to the next size i had a 375. Seems to work better. But i am beginning to think that post blower may work better? What are your thoughts?
Olddragger

Juan
Where are you measuring your intake temps from? I thought you were doing it from the old peittit site on the upper manifold? But I noticed you said that you had an injector there and that you were going to move it?
I only had a 225 pre blower. Today i changed to the next size i had a 375. Seems to work better. But i am beginning to think that post blower may work better? What are your thoughts?
Olddragger

OD

My AIT temp sensor is located 45 degrees from the original kit temp sensor location. A while back I drilled an tapped a hole in order to use the original AIT sensor location for my secondary meth nozzle. Currently that hole is plugged and my AIT sensor is still located 45 degrees towards the back (firewall side) of the upper intake manifold. If you decide to run a secondary nozzle, I recommend drilling and tapping somewhere right after the intercooler or the same location I did. Take a close look at the original kit AIT sensor location and you will notice that if you put a secondary nozzle there, the nozzle will only be spraying (for the most part) into the intermediate housing. Yes, I know that the intermediate housing provides air/fuel to both rotor housings but I thing going father away not only will provide methanol to all three housings intakes but it will allow better atomization of the methanol/air/fuel mixture.

Also, I ran a 225ml nozzle post-blower but dyno testing showed that it decreased the engine total output by 25~35whp. Dyno test showed that it was better to run a bigger nozzle pre-blower and smaller nozzle post-blower or a bigger nozzle pre-blower if you don’t want to run a post-blower nozzle. The best pre/post nozzle combination can only be determine by putting the car on a dyno since there is no way that butt dyno can sense around 30 or so whp differences. Well unless you have a fine tuned butt dyno. :Eyecrazy:

I think that 100ml pre-blower and 60ml post-blower will provide the best combination base on my experience with the dyno runs we did at Pettit. To much methanol will induce random misfire and/or loss of power. :eyetwitch

Anybody have pics of where the VDI hose is removed, capped, and relocated??

hose removed period and vacuum capped off doesnt matter where you cap it. just leave the electronics.
Juan thanks for the answer man-- I am going to play with the 375 a little bit. Max out at 5 and min at 2.5--no misfires yet--but i only take her to 7.5. maybe a big nozzle pre blower with a very gradual scale will be ok?
The cooling you are getting is impressive. Mine did not do that with the smaller nozzle pre blower. With the bigger nozzle it does some. It may be that post blower will be best since we have such long dang intake runners. And a pre blower one to help the blower out.
To run a dual nozzle set up just order the y fitting and the nozzles--right?
olddragger

hose removed period and vacuum capped off doesnt matter where you cap it. just leave the electronics.
Juan thanks for the answer man-- I am going to play with the 375 a little bit. Max out at 5 and min at 2.5--no misfires yet--but i only take her to 7.5. maybe a big nozzle pre blower with a very gradual scale will be ok?
The cooling you are getting is impressive. Mine did not do that with the smaller nozzle pre blower. With the bigger nozzle it does some. It may be that post blower will be best since we have such long dang intake runners. And a pre blower one to help the blower out.
To run a dual nozzle set up just order the y fitting and the nozzles--right?
olddragger

Yup! Talk to Ray and he'll get them for you. :eyetwitch

"but i only take her to 7.5" What!

9K while on "drive it like you stole it" mode. That's how I got 9 psi boost plus the new bypass valve works awesome.

Juan, what were your observed differences between the old bypass valve and your new one? I am sure this is a redundant question but if you wouldn't mind linking me to your posted information I would appreciate it.

Juan, what were your observed differences between the old bypass valve and your new one? I am sure this is a redundant question but if you wouldn't mind linking me to your posted information I would appreciate it.

No problem Ray here you go.

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Post 2049

Just like it was advertised. Made out of CNC billet aluminum and powder coated in black (inside and out). It has an O-ring in the screw on/off cap and a double O-ring at the body where the piston travel plus another O-ring where the piston seals against the body opening. See pixs of the bypass valve fully disassembled next to the Bosch type that came with the SC kit. I ran the car (about 25 miles) to test it and I can see that the transition from vacuum to boost is a whole lot quicker. I did not install any of the included springs per Cam’s advice. However, in order to add the spring, all you have to do is disconnect the vacuum hose from the valve, unscrew the top, insert desired spring and re-install the cap and vacuum line. Less than a couple of minutes unless you suffer from arthritis.

Post 2075

Quote:
Originally Posted by morkusyambo Juan. Are you going to try some of the springs with your new valve?? As you allready know, Phil is reporting 13-14lbs. I'm excited(and I hope others are also) to possibly learn this is reproducible by simply changing the valve.
Nope. Phil is running 13-14lbs because he has a 4 port engine and it was explained right after he posted those figures.

I talked to Cam and he explained to me that the reason for not loading a spring is to led some of the compressed air bleed back into the blower while cruising thus keeping the engine temps down, compressor noise down and it also saves fuel. Once you step on the gas the valve shuts immediately regardless if you have as spring installed or not.


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One more note: I coated the inside of the valve assembly with a little bit of synthetic motorcycle chain lubricant in order to facilitate the movement of the piston inside the valve. Synthetic lubricants or any type of synthetic product will not turn black or degrade with time hence why I use synthetic lubricants on everything an automobile or motorcycle requires.

Also, with the old valve I reached 8.3 psi every once in a while but with the new one I attain 8.7 psi all the time and 9.0 psi if I push it up to 9k rpm. Bottom line, the valve does its job, transition from vac to boost is way faster and higher boost psi event though there is no spring istalled. :eyetwitch

Juan, are you going to send me those pics today??

Juan believe it or not--i am actually faster by shifting before 8K. My factory tach at above 7K is about 500rpms off. I saw it at the track. Going over 7.5 K (on my tach--so really 8K). Also --on the track--that extra 1K causes a LOT of heat to be generated. And -- i know this is weird, but after 8K (corrected) the car doesnt "feel" as good--the sounds and feedback---really dont know how to explain it--just doesnt feel as good.
Dude I am going to HAVE to get you on track with me someday. Maybe Roebling in Savannah or I can come to Seibring? After the weather cools a little of course. For me --not the car:)
The turbo xs rbv-25 valve I have seems to be working well. Guess I do need a boost gauge to be sure.
olddragger

I can come to Seibring? After the weather cools a little of course. For me --not the car:)
olddragger

If you guys do sebring let me know I'll come up.

Also Ray and Jeff are going to be in Tampa on 6/14 for a dyno day. I am planning to go up meet them and hopefully pick up my ignition upgrade kit from them.
Just an FYI.

It would be nice to have RX8s with the different kits out there to compare.
Pettit, BHR/MM, and Mazsport.

lets work on this--we have time.
olddragger

If you guys do sebring let me know I'll come up.

Also Ray and Jeff are going to be in Tampa on 6/14 for a dyno day. I am planning to go up meet them and hopefully pick up my ignition upgrade kit from them.
Just an FYI.

It would be nice to have RX8s with the different kits out there to compare.
Pettit, BHR/MM, and Mazsport.

Sorry I can't make it. I'll be in PR from the 11 to the 17 for a 25 year HS reunion. :eyetwitch

TRD supercharger, here i come!! :rollingla

CLICK HERE (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=147403) for more toys...


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Juan believe it or not--i am actually faster by shifting before 8K. My factory tach at above 7K is about 500rpms off. I saw it at the track. Going over 7.5 K (on my tach--so really 8K). Also --on the track--that extra 1K causes a LOT of heat to be generated. And -- i know this is weird, but after 8K (corrected) the car doesnt "feel" as good--the sounds and feedback---really dont know how to explain it--just doesnt feel as good.
Dude I am going to HAVE to get you on track with me someday. Maybe Roebling in Savannah or I can come to Seibring? After the weather cools a little of course. For me --not the car:)
The turbo xs rbv-25 valve I have seems to be working well. Guess I do need a boost gauge to be sure.
olddragger

OD

Savannah sounds great. I can stop by my mom's house in Jacksonville charge her for my visit (need gas money) plus food. Can I track with street tires? I just had my car alignment done by a shop in Orlando. I had three guys working on the alignment. Two of them ex IMSA team crewmembers. They spent over an hour working and street testing the car alignment and it now rides like a dream. The guy that test drove the car told me that he purposely took a longer route to test the final setting because he felt in love with the car. On my way back I purposely took an I-4 exit at double the posted speed limit (45mph) to pass or fail my new alignment. I'm still alive so it now handles incredibly awesome. Of course I also did the not mandatory but ever invigorating 130+mph I-4 run. :eyetwitch

TRD supercharger, here i come!! :rollingla

CLICK HERE (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=147403) for more toys...


<end hijack>

Nice! I was wondering what happened to you. We need the female touch to keep us manly men in check. :eyetwitch

yeah Juan...ive been a busy little "beaver"

:rollingla

I just ordered the evolution motorsports billet bypass valve. Anyone else try it yet??

Juan---that would be so cool. nothing like passing cars on the track that dont believe a rx 8 can do that!
Street tires are fine. I will check the next event we can get in on (after the weather cools ok? all day at the track in 100f weather is not fun to me anymore.)
And you thought that the car drove well before the alignment!! It sure surprised me too.
Trouble is you can get too confident because it is so balanced and when the tail breaks loose it can be hard to catch if you are not expecting it.
You hear about the 8 yr 100K extended warrenty mazda as authorized? yes for ALL Rx 8's
olddragger

OD how long of a drive would it be for me to meet up with you guys coming up from Miami.

OD how long of a drive would it be for me to meet up with you guys coming up from Miami.

About seven hour/470 miles. :eyetwitch

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/Pembroke+Pines+FL/Savannah+GA/

it is big big fun. street tires are fine. just stay within your limits.

i need to come to lakeland and see what you have done..

will be going to tampa tomorrow.. send me a pm with your cell # and i will drop by on the way home.. if that is cool with you..

beers :beer:

OD

Savannah sounds great. I can stop by my mom's house in Jacksonville charge her for my visit (need gas money) plus food. Can I track with street tires? I just had my car alignment done by a shop in Orlando. I had three guys working on the alignment. Two of them ex IMSA team crewmembers. They spent over an hour working and street testing the car alignment and it now rides like a dream. The guy that test drove the car told me that he purposely took a longer route to test the final setting because he felt in love with the car. On my way back I purposely took an I-4 exit at double the posted speed limit (45mph) to pass or fail my new alignment. I'm still alive so it now handles incredibly awesome. Of course I also did the not mandatory but ever invigorating 130+mph I-4 run. :eyetwitch

Seriously--we all need to get together at least once a yr. Roebling is a good track for fun, has good local support and the Ga boys will take good care of ya. Maybe one yr Roebling, the next year Seibring (that sure looks like a high speed fun track). Wont let this die!
Munche, I drove to Pettit's which is a little longer I think ---I live in mid Ga. It's not that bad of a drive at all.
Olddragger

If we plan it out with enough time sounds good. Just to throw it out there Moroso is closed due to they are rebuilding both the drag strip and the road course. Should be awsome when done.

Ok lets just let this die.
OD