good news on the LTFTs: they are at zero and not building at this point...
MAF = 285 grms/sec at 7700 rpms

im going to do some testing for the next several weeks on this...at this point, im using my home made MAF housing that moon and i made from the factory box...

if your memories need reminding, we cut off the tube from the box and used a coupler to the TB...it also has a screen and the typhoon...

I do have the new Pettit MAF housing...im going to hold off on installing till i get my initial data

leaving those pieces in place, im going to compare LTFTs and MAF....

Thats the plug going to the a vac solenoid that is no longer needed. The easyest way to prime the IC pump is pull the return line on the water tank wich should be completly full and blow into it, then hook it up really quickly before the water gets to your mouth. I works every time for me on the first try but it might take another attemt or 2. Dont suck on it or your gona get a mouth full of water.:) Trust me on that, it dosnt taste all that great especialy if you have mixed somekind of antifreeze in. Theres no spacific level 3/4 to full should be fine. The pump is hard to hear if its running or not, keep that in mind.

Moon, are you reffering to the line between the reservoir and the top of the aftercooler?

Moon, are you reffering to the line between the reservoir and the top of the aftercooler?

Yes it is.

Cool. I needed to reprime my pump. That worked out nicely.

Hopfully you spit and didnt swollow, lol.:evil_laug

could be the a/c plug? right area. Did you still have the stock intake on before the swap?
The VDI stands for Variable dynamic intake. Its a valve in the lower intake (right at the start og the lower intake) that opens after about 7.2K to balance out air flow in t1st part of the lower intake runners. we dont need it anymore and can actually cause a little problem with boost.
olddragger

You can also drain the system through that tube making it alot easier then trying to empty the tank another way.

Hopfully you spit and didnt swollow, lol.:evil_laug

Actually nothing came out......must've been dehydrated:lol2:

could be the a/c plug? right area. Did you still have the stock intake on before the swap?
The VDI stands for Variable dynamic intake. Its a valve in the lower intake (right at the start og the lower intake) that opens after about 7.2K to balance out air flow in t1st part of the lower intake runners. we dont need it anymore and can actually cause a little problem with boost.
olddragger

Thanks. I forgot to ask it when talking with Cam.

Well we started the car today and actually took it our for a quick test drive. Is it normal for the CEL to come on? IT would flash while driving and be solid during idle or sometimes turn off while at idle. I onle drove it for a few miles so I may just need to drive it. Is it normal for the CEl to come on? I kept the rpm's down to 6500/7000 and actually got scared at one point when I head what would be best alled a maching gun popping noise at about 6000 rpm. It almost seemed like like it was from the exhaust but couldn't really tell. I've never heard detonation so I was paranoid and didn't want to push it. I'm wondering it I just need to drive it awhile to allow everything to set.

What management are you running? I'd be paranoid as well. You don't want to leave any bits behind on the street! I hope you get it sorted out.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Well we started the car today and actually took it our for a quick test drive. Is it normal for the CEL to come on? IT would flash while driving and be solid during idle or sometimes turn off while at idle. I onle drove it for a few miles so I may just need to drive it. Is it normal for the CEl to come on? I kept the rpm's down to 6500/7000 and actually got scared at one point when I head what would be best alled a maching gun popping noise at about 6000 rpm. It almost seemed like like it was from the exhaust but couldn't really tell. I've never heard detonation so I was paranoid and didn't want to push it. I'm wondering it I just need to drive it awhile to allow everything to set.

I've never heard anything like that. If you don't have your own scan tool, go to your local autozone and have them scan it.

Well we started the car today and actually took it our for a quick test drive. Is it normal for the CEL to come on? IT would flash while driving and be solid during idle or sometimes turn off while at idle. I onle drove it for a few miles so I may just need to drive it. Is it normal for the CEl to come on? I kept the rpm's down to 6500/7000 and actually got scared at one point when I head what would be best alled a maching gun popping noise at about 6000 rpm. It almost seemed like like it was from the exhaust but couldn't really tell. I've never heard detonation so I was paranoid and didn't want to push it. I'm wondering it I just need to drive it awhile to allow everything to set.

What you heard was PROBABLY detonation. It sounds a bit like squirrels on coke playing ping pong (or a very high pitched machine gun tinking sound). DO NOT DRIVE IT UNDER LOAD LIKE THAT.

It will not detonate with the correct gas and engine management. Talk to Cam or Moon before putting the car under load again. Find out why it is doing that before you put load on it again.

Just my thoughts............

Dog, start checking for vacuum leaks, and like morkus said, get a SCAN tool on it before you drive it under load any more.

True sounds like detonation to me too and as before DO NOT DRIVE UNDER LOAD(full throttle) UNTIL YOU HAVE FOUND OUT WHAT IS GOING ON. You could easily blow an engine. I describe it like an aluminum can being crushed. LOTS of things can cause detonation:
1- bad coils/plugs/wires
2- temps
3- a/f ratio
4- timing
5- low fuel pressures
6- bad injectors
etc.
Welcome to the world of FI!
Do you have the flash or the INT X?
If you have the flash--what maf pipe are you using? Pettit's?
If you have the flash and have a cat then no cel is supposed to show. If you have the INTX a cel will show but not a blinking one! Something is wrong.
Go through it with a fine tooth comb.
DOnt get discouraged--it takes a little while to get it sorted out. Every car is different.
Olddragger

Blinking cel could be a misfire. Misfire with detenation is a :nono:

Check your coils just incase. To do so look at the epoxy on the bottom of each one. If its totaly black its fine but if you see any discoloration or little pin holes replace them. Dont go buy the factory test method, they can sometime test ok but be totaly screwed. The problem weve found that if there bad they might fire at the wrong time usauly at high RPMs.

Check your coils just incase. To do so look at the epoxy on the bottom of each one. If its totaly black its fine but if you see any discoloration or little pin holes replace them.

The condition of the epoxy on the bottom of the coils is meaningless (unless it is actually melted or cracked, which I have never seen).
Besides the FSM check, you should verify the coils with a timing light through the RPM band.
If its bad, there will be misses.

That said, unless a lead coil isn't firing at all, you won't get detonation from a bad coil.

Its very likely that you simply have too much timing advance under boost at the torque peak.

The flashing light is most probably the crank trigger familiarization which is causing syc errors. You need to do the pedal dance (call Cam if you do not know what this is and he will explain). I've not driven one for extended distances with the crank sync error (MIL flashing) so I do not know if this is causing the detonation but I would think it a possibility if the PCM is actually (a little) confused about crankshaft position.

Before anyone has you second guessing your tuning, get a simple data logger and examine the car's behavior for yourself. A lot of these tuners tend to go at each other trying to put the other one down so they look bigger/better/bader. If I were you, I would log timing and mixture and make sure you are comfortable with the numbers. You can find a good logger at www.efidude.com. It is the one Cam uses and it is nice and affordable. You can check it out by installing the software right off the site for free and importing a data log. I'll try to find one and post it here for you (and anyone else that wants to see what the logger looks like).

You can also get a reflasher option for the logger so Cam can email you the latest calibration files.

to all sc owers. i just wanted to know how well the sc took to the rx8 and was it worth it and if you could do it again would you say na or go turbo?

The "Random Misfire Detected" is one of those CEL's (MIL's to be precise) that can be temporary, and go away. But I'm pretty sure that after 3 "hits" it stays on.

If you have a good scan tool :naughty: it will also display freeze frame data when the MIL was activated.

Cheers,
Hymee.

to all sc owers. i just wanted to know how well the sc took to the rx8 and was it worth it and if you could do it again would you say na or go turbo?

To quote the tuner when we had my 2nd prototype on the dyno: "She's got some grunt".

This guy has tuned 2 different rotaries to 6 second passes. There is only a handful of them in the world. And he was the first to tune a 200MPH pass. So I tend to listen to what he says from time to time ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrWScxHBnoc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqCkSIontmE&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RomCIKez7Lw Grandad is the one who says "1499.2 - Ahh what a f@@kka" LOL.


Cheers,
Hymee.

PS - Those strictly race cars (20B, methanol) were turboed as well. So I guess Grandad isn't too biased.

Ok, let me clarify about the coil issue. If you have discoloration in your coils it meens there getting weak. If you start seeing little spots it meens there grounding out to the bracket and somtimes juming through the bracket to another coil causing it to fire at the wrong time= ping or the wrong coil to fire. Ive seen it first hand on the dyno with lights off. If you remove a set of coils from the bracket spacing them close to each other youl see a intermitant spark between the two if the coils are bad. I dont recomend you try this but its how I found out what was happining. It happenes at full load and higher rpm.

What management are you running? I'd be paranoid as well. You don't want to leave any bits behind on the street! I hope you get it sorted out.

Cheers,
Hymee.

I have the flash. I'm going to scan it over the next day or so and sort everything out. I did look at your scanner but it looks like it isn't compatable with every car.

True sounds like detonation to me too and as before DO NOT DRIVE UNDER LOAD(full throttle) UNTIL YOU HAVE FOUND OUT WHAT IS GOING ON. You could easily blow an engine. I describe it like an aluminum can being crushed. LOTS of things can cause detonation:
1- bad coils/plugs/wires
2- temps
3- a/f ratio
4- timing
5- low fuel pressures
6- bad injectors
etc.
Welcome to the world of FI!
Do you have the flash or the INT X?
If you have the flash--what maf pipe are you using? Pettit's?
If you have the flash and have a cat then no cel is supposed to show. If you have the INTX a cel will show but not a blinking one! Something is wrong.
Go through it with a fine tooth comb.
DOnt get discouraged--it takes a little while to get it sorted out. Every car is different.
Olddragger

I'm using the new Pettit MAF and the Flash with the High Flow CAT. I changed the Plugs, wires and Coils so they shouldn't be the problem. One factor to this could have been it looks like the pump lost its prime and wasn't cooling the charge. I've got a AFR gauge but was messing around with it and had it on some screwed up setting without realizing it until it was to late. That would have been a very usefull piece of info for me to have but....

Ok, let me clarify about the coil issue. If you have discoloration in your coils it meens there getting weak. If you start seeing little spots it meens there grounding out to the bracket and somtimes juming through the bracket to another coil causing it to fire at the wrong time= ping or the wrong coil to fire. Ive seen it first hand on the dyno with lights off. If you remove a set of coils from the bracket spacing them close to each other youl see a intermitant spark between the two if the coils are bad. I dont recomend you try this but its how I found out what was happining. It happenes at full load and higher rpm.

Nope, it doesn't. (http://www.youareanfingidiot.com)

Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.

Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.

The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.

I've bought new coils from the dealer that had what looked like white fingerprints or watermarks on the bottom of the coil.

The flashing light is most probably the crank trigger familiarization which is causing syc errors. You need to do the pedal dance (call Cam if you do not know what this is and he will explain). I've not driven one for extended distances with the crank sync error (MIL flashing) so I do not know if this is causing the detonation but I would think it a possibility if the PCM is actually (a little) confused about crankshaft position.

Before anyone has you second guessing your tuning, get a simple data logger and examine the car's behavior for yourself. A lot of these tuners tend to go at each other trying to put the other one down so they look bigger/better/bader. If I were you, I would log timing and mixture and make sure you are comfortable with the numbers. You can find a good logger at www.efidude.com. It is the one Cam uses and it is nice and affordable. You can check it out by installing the software right off the site for free and importing a data log. I'll try to find one and post it here for you (and anyone else that wants to see what the logger looks like).

You can also get a reflasher option for the logger so Cam can email you the latest calibration files.


This is certainly something I plan on purchasing in the near future. Might have to wait until after I have new golf clubs.

This is certainly something I plan on purchasing in the near future. Might have to wait until after I have new golf clubs.

hey dog...the efi dude is a nice logger and very user friendly...
and the price is definitely right...then if you decide to get reflashed you can get a VIN certificate and have it emailed to you..

:D:

Nope, it doesn't. (http://www.youareanfingidiot.com)

Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.

Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.

The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.

:rant:

Nope, it doesn't. (http://www.youareanfingidiot.com)

Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.

Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.

The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.

Yeh, whatever Jeff said, your the man Jeff, You are the real self proclaimed God.

Too late, Moon. I already told him that. Ya wanna get a rise out of him? Tell him he's an asshole, too.

Too late, Moon. I already told him that. Ya wanna get a rise out of him? Tell him he's an asshole, too.

i think youve already done that Ray....many, many times...

:rollingla

Too late, Moon. I already told him that. Ya wanna get a rise out of him? Tell him he's an asshole, too.

LOL, Jeff your an asshole two.

Dogpound, did you find out what the CEL codes were yet??

:rant:

What does that mean? Usually an emoticon is used for punctuation, not the actual statement.

Yeh, whatever Jeff said, your the man Jeff, You are the real self proclaimed God.

Uh, OK. What does that mean? Why do you say stuff like that? How is that an appropriate response?
What does the anatomy of a coil failure and your concept of religeon have to do with each other?

LOL, Jeff your an asshole two.

Lol. "Two".

The white color has nothing to do with the coils integrity...I have some that are 100% OK...and have that...and the ones that failed outright....don't have it at all.....get out a good multimeter....and a timing light....then you can tell if they work

The white color has nothing to do with the coils integrity...I have some that are 100% OK...and have that...and the ones that failed outright....don't have it at all.....get out a good multimeter....and a timing light....then you can tell if they work

Funny you should say that, ive had a few that look new and dont work, some have markes and work ok at idle but ive never tried using a timing light on a car under load taching 5 + thousand RPMs on a dyno. You can try but I wouldnt recomend you do. Did I mention it usualy shows its faults under load and high RPMs. Ive tested a few coils with multimeters and have seen them test ok yet the problem persists [at high RPM], replaced them and no more problems so you can talk about magnetic forcefields and stuff like that but as a whole, if you seem to have a problem its much easyier just to replace them if you suspect them as being a problem, sometimes even if you dont [ it never hurts to have an extra set laying around]. You never now. Id say the order for diagnosing a problem with an 8 engine is 1st make sure it isnt bad gas 2nd replace the coils and or plugs and 3rd, proper fuel pressure........ But if your motor is blown skip step 1 through 3. rite Jeff.

Uh, OK. What does that mean? Why do you say stuff like that? How is that an appropriate response?
What does the anatomy of a coil failure and your concept of religeon have to do with each other?

I just wanted you to ask [what does that mean] that was the only reason.

^^ I agree....Just replace the damn thing with the plugs and you will have no problems:D:....I just don't agree that the white marks mean the coils are pooched :)

"two" and "religeon". Coupla dummies.:lol2:

Spelling Impaired at least :lol:

Ahh, the irony.
I still haven't figured out why the Firefox spell checker thinks that is spelled correctly.
When you can pronounce rødgrød, I'll worry about how to spell religion correctly.

ive never tried using a timing light on a car under load taching 5 + thousand RPMs on a dyno.

You don't need to do it on a dyno, but that would be the best way since the current load on the coils would be higher.
There is no particular reason not to do it that way, unless you are frightened of standing next to a Pettit supercharger on the dyno (since there is a pretty good chance of the drive mechanism coming apart at 5k).
A failed coil won't misfire - it just wont fire. Look for the dark cycles on the light.

However, you can just do it free-rev.
Even in neutral, a bad coil will fail at higher RPM.

Ahh, the irony.
I still haven't figured out why the Firefox spell checker thinks that is spelled correctly.
When you can pronounce rødgrød, I'll worry about how to spell religion correctly.


Lighten up, tough guy.:)The real irony was in the subject line of that last PM I sent you. Thoise? I needed spell-check myself. I'll pronounce that word of your properly when you can convince me I should give a shit what it means.:lol2:

Asshole.:lol: JK.

"two" and "religeon". Coupla dummies.:lol2:

i think english is his second language... :)

Uh, OK. What does that mean? Why do you say stuff like that? How is that an appropriate response?
What does the anatomy of a coil failure and your concept of religeon have to do with each other?

I just wanted you to ask [what does that mean] that was the only reason.


Let it pass, Moon. When Jeff finds his ass backed into a corner, he has a habit of going non-sequitur on us :lol2:

Was that non-squirter?

Was that non-squirter?

:lol: :rollingla

I agree with Lola --the date logger will save you a lot of time and guessing. Sounds like you replaced all the right ignition parts with the install(the right way of doing it!).
You have the pettit pipe with the flash--thats right. So--
how old is your fuel pump? Any fuel starvation issues before?
Double check your ignition connections and check all vacuum lines. How do you have your vacuum lines hooked up?
Intake/charge temps should not be an issue if the a/w intercooler is working and your a/f's are "ok". Your detonation came at a realitivly low rpm also. Cam told me that the timing is very conservative on his flash.
The pedal dance should not apply since this was the 1st run you had after the install and your battery was out for a while?---doesnt hurt anything though.
Again data logger will solve it all--i plan on getting one REALLY soon.
olddragger

:)The real irony was in the subject line of that last PM I sent you. Thoise?

I just thought you were doing the "Jersey" thing.

I'll pronounce that word of your properly when you can convince me I should give a shit what it means.:lol2:

Its delicious! Shoulda asked Kane's wife while you were over on the island.

i think english is his second language... :)

Wow. Paying attention, I see.

Let it pass, Moon. When Jeff finds his ass backed into a corner, he has a habit of going non-sequitur on us :lol2:

Now that is funny on so many levels.

Obviously, I was backed into a corner. Like a badger. In a corner. Backwards.

Anyway, I should know that you shouldn't let little details - such as facts - interrupt a good modus tollendo tollens. (You can look that one up in the same place you looked up "non sequitur".)
No, go out and check your coils.

Was that non-squirter?

I'm pretty sure I saw squirting. We can watch the tape.

Cam told me that the timing is very conservative on his flash.

Define "conservative". Exactly how many degrees of timing and split are "conservative" and under what conditions?
I am willing to bet that "conservative" is no where near what is actually conservative on a boosted rotary motor.

have you reset the e shaft profile yet? thats the 20 or so stomps on the brake pedal that OD and others are calling the brake dance.

for the shaft profile you must make 20 or so stomps on a wah wah pedal
(poor joke mainly for Charles' benefit)

Which part was the joke? "shaft profile" or "wah-wah pedal"?:lol2:

Wah Wah? Man, this is the 21 century! Its an "expression pedal" these days.

Ahh, the irony.
I still haven't figured out why the Firefox spell checker thinks that is spelled correctly.
When you can pronounce rødgrød, I'll worry about how to spell religion correctly.



You don't need to do it on a dyno, but that would be the best way since the current load on the coils would be higher.
There is no particular reason not to do it that way, unless you are frightened of standing next to a Pettit supercharger on the dyno (since there is a pretty good chance of the drive mechanism coming apart at 5k).
A failed coil won't misfire - it just wont fire. Look for the dark cycles on the light.

However, you can just do it free-rev.
Even in neutral, a bad coil will fail at higher RPM.

Na, not afraid of the blower comming apart, just the car comming unglued from the dyno. I want you to try an experiment for me. Take one of the coils with white spots and lay it on your wet hand, take your other wet hand and hold the motor, then get some one to free rev to 9 grand and tell us if it tickles.

I agree with Lola --the date logger will save you a lot of time and guessing. Sounds like you replaced all the right ignition parts with the install(the right way of doing it!).
You have the pettit pipe with the flash--thats right. So--
how old is your fuel pump? Any fuel starvation issues before?
Double check your ignition connections and check all vacuum lines. How do you have your vacuum lines hooked up?
Intake/charge temps should not be an issue if the a/w intercooler is working and your a/f's are "ok". Your detonation came at a realitivly low rpm also. Cam told me that the timing is very conservative on his flash.
The pedal dance should not apply since this was the 1st run you had after the install and your battery was out for a while?---doesnt hurt anything though.
Again data logger will solve it all--i plan on getting one REALLY soon.
olddragger

Orig fuel pump, only have 18000 miles on it. Going over to scan it now and will update later.

I did find out that I didn't put my AFR gauge in some weird mode. Called Autometer and they said it is locked and needs to be replaced.

Na, not afraid of the blower comming apart, just the car comming unglued from the dyno.


It won't if you strap it right (its not like you are putting down a ton of power), but, once again, the superiority of the DynaPack shows it self.

I want you to try an experiment for me. Take one of the coils with white spots and lay it on your wet hand, take your other wet hand and hold the motor, then get some one to free rev to 9 grand and tell us if it tickles.

Any coil - good or bad - is going to blast you if you don't have it hooked up to a plug and wire. Electricity takes the path of least resistance.
However, why would you say a coil with a white spot is bad and then imply that it will still generate enough current to shock someone who is holding it?
Which is it? Good or bad?

If you stick a wet hand on a brand new coil and ground yourself on the chassis, it will blast you.
I presume you've tried this already, which would explain a lot.

I presume you've tried this already, which would explain a lot.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Your not supossed to turn over anything with hot coils without grounding them, let me clarify a little, take a connected coil with white spots and lay it on your wet hand and see what happens. No, im not gona try it, if your rite about it not arking through the epoxy you shouldnt have anything to worrie about.:scared: What are you chicken bawk bawk.

Your not supossed to turn over anything with hot coils without grounding them, let me clarify a little, take a connected coil with white spots and lay it on your wet hand and see what happens. No, im not gona try it, if your rite about it not arking through the epoxy you shouldnt have anything to worrie about.:scared: What are you chicken bawk bawk.


DISCLAIMER, kids dont try this at home, Jeffs a proffesional stuntman and nows what hes doing.

The funny thing is that Moon is acting more professional now than I've seen him in the past.

Well, I have my good days and bad.

Your not supossed to turn over anything with hot coils without grounding them, let me clarify a little, take a connected coil with white spots and lay it on your wet hand and see what happens. No, im not gona try it, if your rite about it not arking through the epoxy you shouldnt have anything to worrie about.:scared: What are you chicken bawk bawk.

As I noted earlier, white spots are not arcing. The hot side of the transformer is on top. If you have a coil with a broken down pot, it will zap you - it doesn't matter which side you grab.
I've gotten blasted by brand new coils - its about the tower and the plug wire, not the coil.

Try it yourself.
I won't make barnyard noises, don't worry. I wouldn't want to arouse you.

I suspect that you are the kid that got his tongue stuck to the tether-ball post in winter.

Well dam, your not up to proving me wrong, ill do it with a new coil without white spots, but you gotta take the one with the white spots. Na, I never stuck my toung to a metal pole but ive talked a few guys into it. Hey Jeff, if you stick your toung to the freezer wall it wont stick, itl make you be able to taste better.:)

Well dam, your not up to proving me wrong, ill do it with a new coil without white spots, but you gotta take the one with the white spots.

OK, you do that.:lol:

perhaps a "non-secretor" ??

:icon_no2:

perhaps a "non-secretor" ??

:icon_no2:

Nah. Plenty of secreting going on down there in Florida as far as I can tell.

Well, I have my good days and bad.

How can you tell?

Nah. Plenty of secreting going on down there in Florida as far as I can tell.



How can you tell?


that statement doesnt make any sense jeff...do you know what a non-secretor is?

that statement doesnt make any sense jeff...do you know what a non-secretor is?

I'm sure he didn't, but he'll pretend that he did, because he pretends to know everything :)

that statement doesnt make any sense jeff...do you know what a non-secretor is?

Bringing up "non-secretor" didn't make sense. I was trying to save your joke.

Were two to intentionally secrete a substance on each other would be known colloquially as a "pissing contest".
I was alluding to that expression, figuring that you may not have noticed your own play on words in this discussion.
I guess I was correct in that assumption.

bringing up "non-secretor" was being non-sequitor...
but i guess you missed my point

oh..and btw.....i dont need you to save my jokes...


PS....i just love it when you use the "multi-quote" function..
it shows you have a penchant for verbiage

Good Luck with it Dog--let us know if we can be any help. Jeff i didnt ask the degrees of timing in particular --I am trying to learn but at present i really dont know what degrees are good or bad on the rotary.
OD

Good Luck with it Dog--let us know if we can be any help. Jeff i didnt ask the degrees of timing in particular --I am trying to learn but at present i really dont know what degrees are good or bad on the rotary.
OD

Its a range, depending on load and RPM.

Well I pulled the codes tonight and this is what I found. Right away I pulled the codes from Sunday and had 2 P0300 (Random/multiple cylinder misfire) and P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire. I guess that could be a problem I have cylinders not rotors!

After I cleared everything and fixed the I/C pump, and changed fitting on the Intake manifold I started the car up again. It started nice and idled real good at about 1,100 rpm's. If I rev'd it a little I would occasionally get a flashing CEL that would go away after a few secs. It would come on if I let it rev slowly at about 2K rpms or once in awhile if I rev'd to about 4k. I then pulled the codes and got 2 more. P0301 again and P0410 (Secondary Air Injection System malfunction.

Cleared those and missed with the coil and plug connection on plug 1 and started the car again. This time it did the same thing with the occasional flashing CEL but only one code when I pulled it. I got the P0301 code again for Cylinder 1 misfire again.

have you reset the e shaft profile yet? thats the 20 or so stomps on the brake pedal that OD and others are calling the brake dance.

No I haven't done this. Is this something that needs to be done? Would this resolve the issue I've got?

I'm sure he didn't, but he'll pretend that he did, because he pretends to know everything :)

Tried to call you Saterday. You missed the fun, I finaly got to rescue a jeep so that makes 2 H3s 1 F-350 2 F-150s and a land rover. It sucks for that guy, he got his GFs less then 2,000 mile old Jeep stuck in up to its gas cap, sucked water into the tank, they had it bad.

No I haven't done this. Is this something that needs to be done? Would this resolve the issue I've got?

YES!

YES!

^^^^---- What he said.

The Crank Angle Sensor is sensitive to being moved or bumped - i.e. if it has been removed and re-installed. But the deeper issue is what caused the movement in the first place, as I'm assuming you didn't remove it during the install?

Cheers,
Hymee.

Yeh true, you coulda bumped it during your instal of the blower crank pully.

Hey Hymee, hows your latest endevor doing, I figure you have it mounted and running buy now. Im kinda curios on the harmonics on the air to air I/C with the bigger blower.

^^^^---- What he said.

The Crank Angle Sensor is sensitive to being moved or bumped - i.e. if it has been removed and re-installed. But the deeper issue is what caused the movement in the first place, as I'm assuming you didn't remove it during the install?

Cheers,
Hymee.

Didn't remove it but who know if it was knocked. Will certainly try it when I get home. That would be great if all I had to do was reset that.

well at least you know now it is ignition! No obvious skip in the engine--right?
OD

During a Pettit S/C install the sensor isn't moved but the trigger wheel is. Nearly the same effect. Anytime I mess with either the sensor, the wheel, or disconnect the battery, I reset the profile.

Hey Hymee, hows your latest endevor doing, I figure you have it mounted and running buy now. Im kinda curios on the harmonics on the air to air I/C with the bigger blower.

I try not to pollute this thread with specific info on my setup, mainly out of respect for Cam.

But since you asked... I have been concentrating on my reflash solution mainly, as there is no point in putting it all in the car without having management. I could have done the MoTeC thing like we did on the first two, but it is cleaner if I waitied until my solution is baked.

BTW - It has already been mounted in my car for check measurements. I'll resist posting pictures here for the reasons mentioned above, but they can be found elsewhere.

I'm not worried about the so called harmonics as this style of blower and air-air setup had proven itself in another application in our "family".

Cheers,
Hymee.

The air-air should be excellent in a daily-driver scenario.
Add the meth-injection for the extreme climate folks and you have a winner.
Air-water becomes an inter-heater shortly after you begin to drive the car hard.

well at least you know now it is ignition! No obvious skip in the engine--right?
OD

Didn't get to it tonight. But the car sounds great during idle.

Well it looks as though everything is fixed. I reset the e-shaft and haven't gotten a code since. I haven't really gotten to take the car out yet but will tomorrow. I must really thank everyone for all the help I received. I now just have to finish replacing my AFR gauge and I'll be all set. I did take the car out for a quick spin and I must say WOW!

Please log some data. It is near impossible (in my opinion) to get meaningful data throughout the rpm range by looking at an A/F meter. Logging data will allow you to verify for yourself exactly what you have for timing, A/F ratios and how your Long Term Fuel Trims develop.

It is worth mentioning here that you can start building LTFT by taking a warmed up car and going steady state for a few miles after clearing your trims. For example, find a long stretch of road and set your cruse control at 40 mph in 4th gear or 50 mph in fifth gear then drive for four to five miles. You may piss some people off if you are in a 45 or 55 mph zone but you will also be able to watch LTFT build (see attached example). Doing this will allow you to form your own opinion about your air intake system and its associated MAF calibration.

It is a nice SC kit and not cheap. I think you would do yourself a service to finish the installation by checking the overall performance with logging.

Hey Dog...
i suggest you get an EFI Dude!!! a very inexpensive tool to monitor these things...


PS...Bill....is the Dude supposed to be flashing green while in the port..I just noticed it last nite....

PSS...i did a drive last nite on the highway for about 4-5 miles (around 60-65mph)and checked the LTFTs...still reading "zero"
I will continued to test with my "home-made" MAF housing..

:D:

Hey Dog...
i suggest you get an EFI Dude!!! a very inexpensive tool to monitor these things...


PS...Bill....is the Dude supposed to be flashing green while in the port..I just noticed it last nite....

PSS...i did a drive last nite on the highway for about 4-5 miles (around 60-65mph)and checked the LTFTs...still reading "zero"
I will continued to test with my "home-made" MAF housing..

:D:

When the dongle is a Data Logger-

Slow Green Blink- Waiting on Key On
Faster Green Blink- Waiting for RPM signal so logging will start (Key is On)
Honken Green Blink- Logging Away

As for "Home-Made", that has bad connotations and your most elegant solution seems to be working just fine thank you.

Well it looks as though everything is fixed. I reset the e-shaft and haven't gotten a code since. I haven't really gotten to take the car out yet but will tomorrow. I must really thank everyone for all the help I received. I now just have to finish replacing my AFR gauge and I'll be all set. I did take the car out for a quick spin and I must say WOW!

Yea pedal dance!!!!

You may piss some people off if you are in a 45 or 55 mph zone

With al the Q-tips driving around Florida, especially the Q-tip “Snow Birds”, it is a common occurrence. Not to mention driving on the wrong side of the road. :eyetwitch

Congrats on finding the fix, Dogpound. Enjoy, and watch out for 3rd with the DSC off - she'll scoot sideways after 6K WOT! Yeehaaah!

When the dongle is a Data Logger-

As for "Home-Made", that has bad connotations and your most elegant solution seems to be working just fine thank you.

thanks for the clarification Bill

:rollingla

if it aint broke....dont fix it!!!

just got my "new" engine in and running. A little compression really helps:)
Between one weekend of working on it while it was snowing(Im in Ga.!) and the next w/e while working on it there was a tornado(The Atlanta one) and the wind was so hard it blew a squirrel out of a tree that landed on the hood of my car while I was under it :SHOCKED:---it is now going.
In the process i have learned a few things i would like to share.
1- the mazsport ignition system really looks good mounted up front and in veiw---and it works so well---i dont know if it is the higher compression engine or the new coils but this engine is so smooth. Velveeta smooth.
2- it is not good to have an exhaust leak (i removed my secondary air pump and plugged that hole up) and a wide band---it really throws it off and causes some nervousness. Can anyone say Lomotil!?
3- I do not run synthetic oil anymore , i will premix.
4- I run the rx 7 plugs all trailing with the correct spacers.
5- A double resonated midpipe and the rb catback will make the car sound ALMOST oem during normal driving but gives it some authority during those spirited times!
6- you can never have too many zip ties.
7 --the trans is a bitch to get back in. Tight pilot bearing
9- once you get all the attachments off a rotory engine you can pick it up using just your muscles and move it across the shed..
8- pilot bearing removal will make you almost loose Jesus. Ended up having to drill mine out with a dremel--and i did have the good puller.
10--your dog will ALWAYS get in the car with you when you are working on all those gauge wires.
11-- the family will celebrate when they hear it running again--- that means they may start seeing you again. And can ask for money. (I have teenage girls):)
12 -- an additional heat shield over the header is a GOOD thing.
13-- the most hard to get too hose will always be the one that has a just a LITTLE leak---guaranteed.
enough for now--have to go purdy her up some.
olddragger

Heck, did I miss something?

Cheers,
Hymee.

Na--I just needed a fresher engine, got a good deal on a complete one with good compression, wanted one to play(my old one) with and the wife wasnt looking. It was Karma talking to me..
olddragger

Please log some data. It is near impossible (in my opinion) to get meaningful data throughout the rpm range by looking at an A/F meter. Logging data will allow you to verify for yourself exactly what you have for timing, A/F ratios and how your Long Term Fuel Trims develop.

It is worth mentioning here that you can start building LTFT by taking a warmed up car and going steady state for a few miles after clearing your trims. For example, find a long stretch of road and set your cruse control at 40 mph in 4th gear or 50 mph in fifth gear then drive for four to five miles. You may piss some people off if you are in a 45 or 55 mph zone but you will also be able to watch LTFT build (see attached example). Doing this will allow you to form your own opinion about your air intake system and its associated MAF calibration.

It is a nice SC kit and not cheap. I think you would do yourself a service to finish the installation by checking the overall performance with logging.

Just ordered the logger. I decided it would be stupid to screw something up over $150. Everythign seems to running good and this way I can see for sure.

^^
excellent Dog!!

just got my "new" engine in and running. A little compression really helps:)
Between one weekend of working on it while it was snowing(Im in Ga.!) and the next w/e while working on it there was a tornado(The Atlanta one) and the wind was so hard it blew a squirrel out of a tree that landed on the hood of my car while I was under it :SHOCKED:---it is now going.
In the process i have learned a few things i would like to share.
1- the mazsport ignition system really looks good mounted up front and in veiw---and it works so well---i dont know if it is the higher compression engine or the new coils but this engine is so smooth. Velveeta smooth.
2- it is not good to have an exhaust leak (i removed my secondary air pump and plugged that hole up) and a wide band---it really throws it off and causes some nervousness. Can anyone say Lomotil!?
3- I do not run synthetic oil anymore , i will premix.
4- I run the rx 7 plugs all trailing with the correct spacers.
5- A double resonated midpipe and the rb catback will make the car sound ALMOST oem during normal driving but gives it some authority during those spirited times!
6- you can never have too many zip ties.
7 --the trans is a bitch to get back in. Tight pilot bearing
9- once you get all the attachments off a rotory engine you can pick it up using just your muscles and move it across the shed..
8- pilot bearing removal will make you almost loose Jesus. Ended up having to drill mine out with a dremel--and i did have the good puller.
10--your dog will ALWAYS get in the car with you when you are working on all those gauge wires.
11-- the family will celebrate when they hear it running again--- that means they may start seeing you again. And can ask for money. (I have teenage girls):)
12 -- an additional heat shield over the header is a GOOD thing.
13-- the most hard to get too hose will always be the one that has a just a LITTLE leak---guaranteed.
enough for now--have to go purdy her up some.
olddragger

Glad to see you back, Denny:beer05: :beer05:

Sorry............I'm not up to date on this thread................So Denny......you didn't blow the old motor, just bad compression?
Have you or anybody really heard of someone blowing up an motor that's using a Pettit SC?

Thanks,

Dave

Correct and No
OD

So Denny......you didn't blow the old motor, just bad compression?
Have you or anybody really heard of someone blowing up an motor that's using a Pettit SC?


http://www.mazdamaniac.com/portal/smiles/popcorn3.gif

What is it that constitutes a "blown" rotary anyway? I am only familiar with pistons hitting cylinder heads and connecting rods wrapping around crankshafts? Not to mention snapped cranks, lifted heads, etc.:lol2:

how about a banana in the tailpipe?

:rollingla

(in my whitest of whitebread voices), I'm not gonna fall for tha banana in the tailpipe.:)

:lol:

Eddie killed it in that first one!

13-- the most hard to get too hose will always be the one that has a just a LITTLE leak---guaranteed.
enough for now--have to go purdy her up some.
olddragger


I use a dab of rubber cement on vacuum fittings before connecting the hose, you can still twist it to remove it, but they stay in place once the rubber cement has set.

that was one of his best!!

I have another question regarding error codes. I got another code this morning when I started the car up. It was P0400 (Secondary Air intake malfunction). I cleared it and it hasn't come back but I don't know what would cause that. Anyone have any ideas? What would cause it?

Old trick ive learned over the years of dealing with rotorys, if you loss compression flood the engine with WD-40 and let it sit for a day and allow to disolve the carbon, try to start it, if it dosnt start replace or clean your plugs. It works about 3/4 of the time.

if you loss compression flood the engine with WD-40 and let it sit for a day and allow to disolve the carbon,

Welcome to the early 20th century. Ever hear of SeaFoam?

You might want to fire up the generator and read the TSB (http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-014-08-1924.pdf).

For anyone else reading this:
Putting WD-40 in your combustion chambers is not a good (or effective) thing.

Yeh, what he said,:rant:

True---!
Now i have another engine on the self--gives me some comfort. i know i can always sell it if I want and now that I have done it once--swapping the engine is really not that bad. Its work--but pretty straight forward.
by the way does the driveline cross members serve any purpose than protecting the driveline? I dont see how they stiffen the body much id at all.
olddragger

Welcome to the early 20th century. Ever hear of SeaFoam?


21st?

21st?

For the rest of us.
Not the "WD-40" crowd.
Or the MMO crowd, for that matter.

True---!
Now i have another engine on the self--gives me some comfort. i know i can always sell it if I want and now that I have done it once--swapping the engine is really not that bad. Its work--but pretty straight forward.
by the way does the driveline cross members serve any purpose than protecting the driveline? I dont see how they stiffen the body much id at all.
olddragger

A backup is always good, its paid for, dont sell it.

A backup is always good, its paid for, dont sell it.

I agree.
If anything, make some space and rebuild it.
Take your time and enjoy/learn the process.

The rotary motor is incredibly simple and Mazda has provided really great engineering notes to help you rebuild it properly.

Started experiencing another sound today and wanted to check to see if anybody has any ideas. Started getting a "chattering" noise at higher rpm's (above 7k) It seems to be doing it every time I get up in that range. My first instinct is that the belt is loose but is as tight as the tensioner makes it and still has a little slack. What would be the best way to describe the necessary tightness for the belts?

I think the belt is supposed to be tuned to C5.

Was there a flashing CEL associated with the sound?

Started experiencing another sound today and wanted to check to see if anybody has any ideas. Started getting a "chattering" noise at higher rpm's (above 7k) It seems to be doing it every time I get up in that range. My first instinct is that the belt is loose but is as tight as the tensioner makes it and still has a little slack. What would be the best way to describe the necessary tightness for the belts?

Do you have a boost gauge installed??

I had to redo the belt adjuster so i could may the belt tighter. i have at the most 1/4 inch play in mine.
olddragger

I find myself a bit concerned that the required tension may be out of max spec for the belt.

Was there a flashing CEL associated with the sound?

No CEL.

Do you have a boost gauge installed??

Yes and everything looked normal

I had to redo the belt adjuster so i could may the belt tighter. i have at the most 1/4 inch play in mine.
olddragger

I have more than 1/4" play in mine. I would say it is something closer to an inch. Especially if you check the longest part.

I find myself a bit concerned that the required tension may be out of max spec for the belt.

The crank pulley doesn't like a ton of tangential pull.
That's a quick path to a front seal oil leak and bearing damage.

Hmm. I have a mechanical boost guage and have had slippage before. It looked like the needle kept hitting an imaginary wall and would bounce back and forth at a high rate of speed. This happened around 7k rpms.

Another time the car wouldn't make above 5psi of boost. The belt had @1k miles on it and had stretched so much, it needed to be retightened.

The crank pulley doesn't like a ton of tangential pull.
That's a quick path to a front seal oil leak and bearing damage.

I am hip, Baby. That's why I am...........:)

I had to redo the belt adjuster so i could may the belt tighter. i have at the most 1/4 inch play in mine.
olddragger

How did you redo the adjuster?

Hmm. I have a mechanical boost guage and have had slippage before. It looked like the needle kept hitting an imaginary wall and would bounce back and forth at a high rate of speed. This happened around 7k rpms.

Another time the car wouldn't make above 5psi of boost. The belt had @1k miles on it and had stretched so much, it needed to be retightened.

Did you hear any unusual sounds with either issue?

Started experiencing another sound today and wanted to check to see if anybody has any ideas. Started getting a "chattering" noise at higher rpm's (above 7k) It seems to be doing it every time I get up in that range. My first instinct is that the belt is loose but is as tight as the tensioner makes it and still has a little slack. What would be the best way to describe the necessary tightness for the belts?

Dare I say it, but I hope you don't need to go and pick up the bits...

Cheers,
Hymee.

Dare I say it, but I hope you don't need to go and pick up the bits...

Cheers,
Hymee.

Certainly hope not. What makes you think that it is something along those lines? Doesn't seem to have any issues other than what I described. Must admit after the detonation last week it is something I'm worried about.

Ouch - You mentioned the D word...

Regards MM's comment on the front pulley, which is good advice - and please fill me in - but is there an additionally pulley on this setup like I had in my first 2 prototypes?

Cheers,
Hymee.

Any pix of the first two protos?

Hmmmm...sounds like you guys are having the same problems I had with my last ride. I had a jackson racing sc on my 02 Civic Si. I went thru 3 belts (chewed the teeth right off) and several weird noises in less than 6 mos after the install. Once I removed the kit I discovered the main noise was coming from the alt pulley. Cranking down on the tensioner to tighten the belt caused excessive wear on both the alt pulley and tensioner. I noticed very fine shavings on the back side of both pulleys.

Ouch - You mentioned the D word...

Regards MM's comment on the front pulley, which is good advice - and please fill me in - but is there an additionally pulley on this setup like I had in my first 2 prototypes?

Cheers,
Hymee.

As I mentioned last week I had two issues that I believe caused itb and now am just hoping to not have any lasting issues from it.

The car ran really strong Saturday and now having some issues that I need to sort out.

Did you hear any unusual sounds with either issue?

No unusual sounds. It just felt like the car was hitting a wall everytime @7k rpm.

Hmmmm...sounds like you guys are having the same problems I had with my last ride. I had a jackson racing sc on my 02 Civic Si. I went thru 3 belts (chewed the teeth right off) and several weird noises in less than 6 mos after the install. Once I removed the kit I discovered the main noise was coming from the alt pulley. Cranking down on the tensioner to tighten the belt caused excessive wear on both the alt pulley and tensioner. I noticed very fine shavings on the back side of both pulleys.

This setup doesn't run the alternator. There is a "crank", tensioner, and blower pulley. You're right about cranking down on the tensioner causing excessive wear. I noticed definate wear from slippage on my belt after a few thousand miles. I don't crank down on mine near as much as everybody else (probably why I only see 7.5lb on my boost gauge), because i'm worried about chewing through the belt.

Here is how I check the tension on my SC belt. Grab the bottom part of the belt (looking at the SC pulley it will be the section of the belt that goes from the SC pulley to the engine eccentric crank pulley) halfway from the SC pulley to the crank with your thumb and index finger. Now, try to bend the belt 90 degrees. If is over 90 then it is to loose and if is less, it is too tight. Basically, adjust to where you can twist the belt 90 degrees.

I had to adjust my belt several times the first few hundred miles but now I hit 8.3 psi per my digital booster gauge. :eyetwitch

See my 8.0 psi youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uwNcDxnOLo

8.3 eh? At what rpm do you see that?

8.3 eh? At what rpm do you see that?

Don't know since I can't keep my eyes looking at the boost plus rpms plus in front of me. Basically it is an old habit of mine after many years of riding crotch rocket bikes. I like to keep my eyes on the road and not on the dash. The rpm range of my Hayabusa and the RX8 are not so much to my concern. I’ll try to take some videos on Friday and will post the youtube link on Saturday. :evil_laug

Good test Marsredr. And that is what i can do when the lateral movement on my belt is approx 1/4 inch.
very familer on bearings loads caused by too snug of a belt. Not just the front bearing but also the alternator, the front of the s.c. and the water pump.
Always test the tension on the longest part of a belt. Always make sure your alignment is good also--dont laugh I have seen things you could not even imagine.

Dog I had to make a slightly longer bolt for the s.c. tensioner. Worker well for me.
I think CRH may be getting something that will let us run a wider belt?
olddragger

Yeah Juan.............let's not hit a 12 foot Gator while trying to see what RPM and boost you are at.............okay? :nono:

:evil_laug


Dave

I had to adjust my belt several times the first few hundred miles but now I hit 8.3 psi per my digital booster gauge. :eyetwitch

See my 8.0 psi youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uwNcDxnOLo

I think it has more to do with your digital boost gauge; My boost gauge never saw 7PSI with the long tiny plastic feed hose, but when they hooked up a larger boost gauge during my dyno run it hit 7.5 PSI at 8K.
:dunno:

Boost numbers can vary a great deal depending on where the other end of the vacuum hose is hooked up to. You guys using the same source?

Yeah Juan.............let's not hit a 12 foot Gator while trying to see what RPM and boost you are at.............okay? :nono:

:evil_laug


Dave

You so funny :eek:

I think it has more to do with your digital boost gauge; My boost gauge never saw 7PSI with the long tiny plastic feed hose, but when they hooked up a larger boost gauge during my dyno run it hit 7.5 PSI at 8K.
:dunno:

My feed tube is located just before the lower intake and hooked up with the original digital gauge kit hardware.

Pat, does the EFIdude capable to register boost levels? :eyetwitch

I have Phil's in the same spot as Juan has his but I have been getting some weird boost readings. I am going to check the harness and such next time I am in LV. Juan, do you have a boost-only gauge?

How much oil does the Pettit blower hold, and has anyone came up with a good way to change it?

I have a leftover quart of Royal Purple XPS and wonder if it should go in the blower.
(No, it is in my bike, not in my rotary)

Doesn't Pettit publish that info in their kit manual? I can't remember how much but I am sure somebody will simply tell you to use the blower case dipstick to check.

I have Phil's in the same spot as Juan has his but I have been getting some weird boost readings. I am going to check the harness and such next time I am in LV. Juan, do you have a boost-only gauge?


It a combo (boost/vac) gauge. :eyetwitch

So I am assuming that while in bypass mode you get normal vacuum readings with it? IIRC from your video you get normal boost readings while in boost.

So I am assuming that while in bypass mode you get normal vacuum readings with it? IIRC from your video you get normal boost readings while in boost.

Steady numbers = Vacuum readings
Blinking numbers = Boost readings

Here is an 8.5 psi vid :eyetwitch :eyetwitch :eyetwitch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lnJXHa6Wd8

with all that chassis bracing you got now you could skin a gator if you hit it!
olddragger

How much oil does the Pettit blower hold, and has anyone came up with a good way to change it?

I have a leftover quart of Royal Purple XPS and wonder if it should go in the blower.
(No, it is in my bike, not in my rotary)

After 500 miles of break-in drain the mineral based oil and replace with Royal Purple 50W (about half of a quart) and enjoy your SC. :eyetwitch

That was the vid I was thinking of. Thanks. So your boost sensor is located on the underside of the Pettit UIM?

with all that chassis bracing you got now you could skin a gator if you hit it!
olddragger

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

But wait, now I got new coilovers and G-games 77W wheels...oh I almost forgot

My car is hooked on meth and I'm its biggest supplier. :eyetwitch

That was the vid I was thinking of. Thanks. So your boost sensor is located on the underside of the Pettit UIM?

I went outside and took a picture just for you Ray. :eyetwitch

What does the eyetwitch mean when people use it?

Thanks Juan. Phil has been having issues with his boost readings so I bought him another sensor that I intend on remote locating like you have. I'll also verify the electrical integrity of his gauge system.

What does the eyetwitch mean when people use it?

Thanks Juan. Phil has been having issues with his boost readings so I bought him another sensor that I intend on remote locating like you have. I'll also verify the electrical integrity of his gauge system.

I guess I'm just dense but where exactly will the sensor mount?

I went outside and took a picture just for you Ray. :eyetwitch


I see the Methanol hose in the photo, it looks like you are running the methanol to the vacuum/boost side of the intake.
Are you running the "extra/upgraded" solenoid (http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=20) to stop siphon of Methanol into the intake ?

I guess I'm just dense but where exactly will the sensor mount?

The sensor sits just below the gauge inside the car. :eyetwitch

I see the Methanol hose in the photo, it looks like you are running the methanol to the vacuum/boost side of the intake.
Are you running the "extra/upgraded" solenoid (http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=20) to stop siphon of Methanol into the intake ?

I'm running a 225ml nozzle just after the throttle body and a 100ml nozzle after the SC. I'm using a T and a solenoid to prevent siphoning and it works. :eyetwitch

The sensor sits just below the gauge inside the car. :eyetwitch
Smart Ass:lol: You must be taking lessons from CRH. Presently my boost sensor is mounted in the intake manifold and that's were your picture looks like it is mounted in yours. Rays post suggests another location - I'm confused.

Smart Ass:lol: You must be taking lessons from CRH. Presently my boost sensor is mounted in the intake manifold and that's were your picture looks like it is mounted in yours. Rays post suggests another location - I'm confused.

Errr, what you saw on the picture is just the nipple/bung for the vacuum/boost hose. The actual sensor is inside the car. Phil, I think you are a bit confused about the sensor/bung location. Its OK, I get like that after staring at your avatar for a while. :lol: :lol: :lol:

See below pictures of my vacuum/boost gauge kit and closeup of the sensor (sending unit). :eyetwitch

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

But wait, now I got new coilovers and G-games 77W wheels...oh I almost forgot

My car is hooked on meth and I'm its biggest supplier. :eyetwitch

pictures :eyetwitch

Is anyone here using the innovate LC-1??

Errr, what you saw on the picture is just the nipple/bung for the vacuum/boost hose. The actual sensor is inside the car. Phil, I think you are a bit confused about the sensor/bung location. Its OK, I get like that after staring at your avatar for a while. :lol: :lol: :lol:

See below pictures of my vacuum/boost gauge kit and closeup of the sensor (sending unit). :eyetwitch

Whoops, now I understand :banghead: - told you I must be dense,:icon_no2: i thought it was hooked to the sensor as mine is hooked up only about 4" off the bung. Sorry I thought you were having a CRH moment with me. Yours would be several feet between the hook up and the sensor with it being inside the vehicle.

I have discussed remotely locating his sensor like you have, Juan. I don't know why he thought you were being a wiseguy.:dunno: That's why I bought him another sensor.

I have discussed remotely locating his sensor like you have, Juan. I don't know why he thought you were being a wiseguy.:dunno: That's why I bought him another sensor.
I took him too literal and thought when he said below the gauge he was talking about me. You would do something like that and I apologized to him. Yes we did talk about a remote site but not where. Oh well back into my corner.

I don't know why he thought you were being a wiseguy.:dunno:

OK, that's it. I had it with you guys and this forum. :rant:

I'm selling my RX8 and going to buy one of this:

http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/



Just kidding.

I read about that guy a couple months ago. The cops hassle him but it is within the confines of the law.

Me 2

I read about that guy a couple months ago. The cops hassle him but it is within the confines of the law.

So there's no law against having a 16 foot flame shooting out the back of your car?

I have the lc-1 Innovate wideband.
olddragger

I have the lc-1 Innovate wideband.
olddragger

Cool. I'll pm you so I don't jack this thread.

Cool. I'll pm you so I don't jack this thread.
Hell that's one of the reasons I started this thread so owners could talk to each other.

In that case, feel free to answer my questions in here OD.

So there's no law against having a 16 foot flame shooting out the back of your car?


More like no law against having something hanging that far off the rear bumper. Whether he uses the thrust capabilities of the jet or not, that is a different story.:)

wow, amazing to see that it's LEGAL in California! (of all places)

wow, amazing to see that it's LEGAL in California! (of all places)

You jest, it's illegal to breath in Cali as the pollutants caused by taking a breath are contributing to global warming.

You jest, it's illegal to breath in Cali as the pollutants caused by taking a breath are contributing to global warming.

I always thought it was what came out the other end that caused global warming.
It does in this house, anyway...

I'm running a 225ml nozzle just after the throttle body and a 100ml nozzle after the SC. I'm using a T and a solenoid to prevent siphoning and it works. :eyetwitch

Sweet, I was hearing two trains of thought:
The spray meth before the S/C crowd and the spray meth after the S/C crowd.
I see you thought outside the box....:ylsuper:

Juan did that to test the theories. I don't recall that he reported his findings.

wow, amazing to see that it's LEGAL in California! (of all places)

It's amazing that anything is legal in Cali:icon_no2:

You jest, it's illegal to breath in Cali as the pollutants caused by taking a breath are contributing to global warming.
See SCAQMD Section 1 gases considered pollutants.

I always thought it was what came out the other end that caused global warming.
It does in this house, anyway...
I see it's been a while since you've been to Cali:)

Oh well, we will all have those rules here shortly -

On the verge of taxing the air we exhale with the Carbon Credits. When will it be enough to institute Title 18 of the United States Code in dealing with these idiot politicians?

Lets speak of the water meth system.
I have a snows unit and havent installed yet. I probably will use the pre blower site with a 175 injector?
I will get a solenoid regardless and a large tank for trunk use.
My question is --ok the water meth by how much does this protect against detonation? Can you run a 13.s a/f with conservative timing with the water meth?
More questions later--gotta go to soccer game.
olddragger

I don't think that alky injection was ever intended to compensate for lean A/Fs nor improper ignition curves. It was intended for use in situations where the fuel quality may not be in-synch with the boost desires. Let's look at it another way; what octane fuel could safely be used with 8-9 psi/manifold boost and 13:1 A/Fs? The thing is, when one has the proper numbers available, without alky, that's what we should shoot for, first.

Water/meth injection is a preservation scheme.
I've always felt that, as a tuning tool, it was a band-aid at best.
That said, I will be running water/meth injection as soon as possible to allow me to continue operating my car as I have it tuned now under the significantly more abusive conditions of the Phoenix summer heat and craptastic gas.

BTW - I have the AccessPORT tuned for the Pettit setup, so anyone that is running some other form of flash or engine management might want to consider a change.
The AccessPORT allows for OE-like start-up, idle, power delivery and emissions compliance and can be individually tuned to fit the various changes Pettit users have implemented in their systems.
You can flash your PCM over and over again with newer or different calibrations to suit your needs and can address other areas of drivability and engine longevity that the other systems do not.

He had a red flag hanging off of it, but it lasted less than a nanosecond!

[QUOTE=MazdaManiac;2368984]Water/meth injection is a preservation scheme.
I've always felt that, as a tuning tool, it was a band-aid at best.
That said, I will be running water/meth injection as soon as possible to allow me to continue operating my car as I have it tuned now under the significantly more abusive conditions of the Phoenix summer heat and craptastic gas.[QUOTE]


This is precisely the use for alky.

[QUOTE=MazdaManiac;2368984]Water/meth injection is a preservation scheme.
I've always felt that, as a tuning tool, it was a band-aid at best.
That said, I will be running water/meth injection as soon as possible to allow me to continue operating my car as I have it tuned now under the significantly more abusive conditions of the Phoenix summer heat and craptastic gas.[QUOTE]


This is precisely the use for alky.

Amen brothers.

I haven’t dynode my car since I installed the meth kit. I didn’t installed it to gain horse power but rather to prevent fatal detonation and most important to bring the intake temps down mainly for AutoX events. If you haven’t taken part in an AutoX event it usually goes this way. Your heat or vehicle classification is called. Then you have to stage and wait your turn to go (this can take 1 to 5 minutes). By then your car is hot and the engine bay is screaming. Finally is time to step on the throttle for a good 25 to 50 plus seconds at high rpms and if you are lucky (depending on the course) up to third gear. Most of the courses are run mostly on second gear. Helloooo engine stress!!!

Therefore, in order to attenuate these harsh engine conditions, I opted to upgrade the OEM radiator to a BHR radiator and the meth kit to bring down the intake air temps since the SC intercooler system is pretty much useless while crawling to the start line. Air/track temps can be very brutal during the summer time here in Florida.

When I first ran the meth kit I was experiencing random misfire at high rpms. While waiting for MM to start experimenting with the LS2 ignition coils I was able to get rid of the misfire conditions by changing the OEM leading spark plugs for NGKs 11.5 (I had a pair of them in my R100). Racing Beat recommends 10.5 for Turbo or SC applications. Now that I upgraded my ignition coils to the MSD LS2, I’m planning to run NGKs 10.5 that I just purchased from BHR (once they arrive) for the leading side and move the current 11.5s to the trailing position. Will it work…we shall see and as always, I will provide feedback.

Also, before someone starts wailing “those plugs are too cold”, my car is not a daily city driven car. Most of my driving is on the highway going to and back from an AutoX event. :eyetwitch

ok i am running the 9's (rx 7 trailing plugs with the spacers).
I THINK i may be hearing a little detonation at very low rpm(closed loop 2-4 K) under very light load(tps maybe at 10-15%) . 93 octane and temps are very cool --coolant at 180F oil about the same, ambient temp at 60F. It goes away with a little more throttle(at maybe 30-40%) (the a/f's do drop but only to the low 13's--there again i am not sure they are accurate---the innovate is calibrated ok.
My newly install innovate is showing in the low 14'sduring these times!! I dont know if that is correct.
I know better than to chase the perfect a/f but Jeff what are your targets?
What maf pipe is your tune coordinated with?
i really need to do some data collection and help here. i want to track my car but not when this is going on. I dont know enough about it except NOT to push her like this..
olddragger

ok i am running the 9's (rx 7 trailing plugs with the spacers).
I THINK i may be hearing a little detonation at very low rpm(closed loop 2-4 K) under very light load(tps maybe at 10-15%) . 93 octane and temps are very cool --coolant at 180F oil about the same, ambient temp at 60F. It goes away with a little more throttle(at maybe 30-40%) (the a/f's do drop but only to the low 13's--there again i am not sure they are accurate---the innovate is calibrated ok.
My newly install innovate is showing in the low 14'sduring these times!! I dont know if that is correct.
I know better than to chase the perfect a/f but Jeff what are your targets?
What maf pipe is your tune coordinated with?
i really need to do some data collection and help here. i want to track my car but not when this is going on. I dont know enough about it except NOT to push her like this..
olddragger


hey denny...did you get an efidude yet?

Calling Cam this morning---:)
OD

If anyone is interested in an LC1 Wideband, PM me. I've decided not to install it now that I'll be using the EFI Dude.

If anyone is interested in an LC1 Wideband, PM me. I've decided not to install it now that I'll be using the EFI Dude.

Helleluiah!!!

I hope your giving it away for less than the Dude prologger?

Cheers,
Hymee.

I am headed toward a data logger also--but I WILL keep my wideband.
OD

I am headed toward a data logger also--but I WILL keep my wideband.
OD

Very good idea.

Helleluiah!!!

I hope your giving it away for less than the Dude prologger?

Cheers,
Hymee.

:rollingla

generally speaking a wideband is twice as much as the efi dude...

:rollingla

generally speaking a wideband is twice as much as the efi dude...

You so funny, me like it. :eyetwitch

pictures :eyetwitch

Here you go.

I'm going to raise the front half-inch and drop one inch the rear tomorrow. I was waiting for the suspension to settle down first. :eyetwitch

Here you go.

I'm going to raise the front half-inch and drop one inch the rear tomorrow. I was waiting for the suspension to settle down first. :eyetwitch

very nice juan!!!

<ahem>

clear corners??

very nice juan!!!

<ahem>

clear corners??

I know...on back order :banghead:

I like red rx8's
OD

I like red rx8's
OD

i thought you might!!

Looking clean man nice wash job :D

So I went to Auto Zone (about 5 miles from my house) to pickup a couple of front brake rotor for my mom’s Suzuki Esteem. Coming back a young dude driving his very clean and very hipped flaming yellow Cobalt SS passed me on the right turning lane and stomps on the gas to show me that he is the man. :suspect: I decided that it was not worth the gas/meth and just let him go.

Later a mile down the road I catch up to him at a red light (I’m behind the Cobalt SS) and I then realize Mr. Slick got his girlfriend with him and I can see that he is talking to her while staring at my RX8 from his rear view mirror. I know what he is thinking “there it is, another slowpoke RX8 and if I smoke him like I have smoke other RX8s in the past, it will be a definitive score with my girl tonight”. :boink: Then I heard my son sitting in the passenger side. “Dad…kill it.” :uzi: Well, I can't disappoint my son (he is another rotor head). Next thing I do is to disable the traction control and turn the meth on. :eyetwitch :eyetwitch :eyetwitch

So it goes like this. Light turns green, Cobalt SS takes off like bad out of hell. I let him go…then I smash the gas pedal…second gear I’m almost next to him…third gear…where did he go? Got of the throttle and a second or two later there he is next to me looking at my RX8 with what I can simply describe as a WTF face. :Eyecrazy:

So next red light and side-by-side. Light turns green and the Cobalt SS doesn’t even try. :scared: My blinkers on and Cobalt SS dude is doomed to watch a girly movie tonight in order to save face with his girlfriend. :lol:

I love my Pettit Racing Super Charged RX8. :eyetwitch

Lol. Slobalt SS.

hey, they make almost 210 whp!

Twin screw for you = no-screw for Cobalt SS man :)

I’ve not been on the forum lately but I was told that someone is offering a ReFlash for the Pettit Supercharger using the Cobb AP. I was able to do a back to back comparison between the EFIDude and Cobb tools on a normally aspirated car and learned a lot from the process. I would be interested in participating in evaluating the Cobb AP Supercharger flash as well.

I know $695 or so is a lot just to try another reflash option so I would be willing to provide an EFIDude ProLogger to log data during the comparison and the dyno time necessary to properly evaluate the Pettit and Cobb solutions. Perhaps the AP dealer will loan us an AP for the comparison and let the owner buy it if he likes it. Either way, the owner can keep the ProLogger as my thanks for letting me be involved in the evaluation. It is a neat little tool for logging data and is the exact same tool Cam uses to do all his development work. You can download the software for free at www.EFIDude.com and I am certain we can find a sample Supercharger data file for you to view if you have not already seen the tool in action. You can also get a reflasher option for the EFIDude tool so you can take advantage of Cam's file updates via email. The man is relentless in his development and always provides file updates for free!

I will also ask Cam to attend the dyno runs to make sure the Cobb ReFlash is acceptable to him from a mixture and timing standpoint as well as making sure his Supercharger kit is running as designed.

I will post the dyno results and data so others that may be considering the AP option will have some data to evaluate before making a purchasing decision. It is always nice to see exactly what your money buys before you spend it along with getting Cam’s opinion on how the stuff affects his kits.

Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions or if I can be of any assistance. I’ve tried to stay off the forum as much as possible to keep threads on topic and away from meaningless personal chatter (which I seem to attract a lot of, sorry).

Thanks, Lola

Lola, who would be making the SC tune with the AP?? All you mentioned was a providing a datalogging capability. I'm not positive, but i'm pretty sure the only people who can make AP maps are those few whom COBB have given their tuning software to.

Its already done. The car has been running around since Monday.
I actually had that tune "in the can" two weeks ago.

I'll have a 4-port auto Pettit flash out there on Monday the 31st as well.

I'm not totally sure what Lola is talking about, however. (Unless he is planning on hacking that calibration as well.)

He doesn't need to hack anyones calibration as he is quite capable of doing his own tunes.

He doesn't need to hack anyones calibration as he is quite capable of doing his own tunes.

So testy these days. :eyetwitch
You might want to check your sources.

Pettit's SC and Int-X are pain in the ass... :(

I think hes just scared that your tune might be better Lola. Hell, how low do you have the idle now?

Pettit's SC and Int-X are pain in the ass... :(

No really, we support our products, call Mazsport, Scott

Sounds to me that this would be a fair comparison? Someone is going to do it anyway ---sooner or later. I got a feeling that they may be a lot alike.
olddragger

I think hes just scared that your tune might be better Lola. Hell, how low do you have the idle now?

I'd only be scared if it was worse since just copying mine will produce pretty spectacular results.
Idle can be wherever you want it - 1100 is good if you delete the idle bleed (which you should do since its such a hillbilly way to handle the idle on a DBW vehicle).
I've had it all the way down to 400 RPM, but that is just silly.

Phil's will be up and running Monday night.

Sounds to me that this would be a fair comparison? Someone is going to do it anyway ---sooner or later. I got a feeling that they may be a lot alike.
olddragger

Yeah, that would be pretty awesome. Save me the trouble.

Any sane person can come to the conclusion that "The Dude" and Lola know WTF they are doing and don't need to hack anyone's Johnny-Come-Lately tune to get an RX-8 running right (mine, and all the other flashed MT Pettit RX-8s have been running right since at least December). I don't think the accuser even believes it. I think he would like to believe it, but I don't think he does. I mean come on; he can't be THAT stupid. It totally makes him seem desperate IMO; like some cheap hooker trying to protect her street corner.

I also find it hilarious that "The Dude" and Pettit have been flash tuning RX-8s for the last 5 or 6 months, and he's arrogant enough to think that it's a big deal he created a Pettit-friendly tune "2 weeks ago." I hope Cobb soon realizes their mistake in associating with this monkey, and they soon puts a muzzle him. Monkeys are known for throwing feces, and that is never a good business practice.

BTW, Lola's quite the tinkerer, here's one of his hobbies:
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc7/bastage_2005/DSCN2804.jpg
He not only tunes these, but he builds them AND drives them. Much more close to rocket science (since this thing is a !@#$ing rocket) than a little PCM, which isn't as complex as a particular self-aggrandizing tool would like you to believe it is.

He was nice enough to let Juan and I climb into the seat (that's me in the picture). I was pretty surprised that I could fit in that thing (as was everyone else who witnessed it, I'm sure :lol: )

Idle can be wherever you want it - 1100 is good if you delete the idle bleed (which you should do since its such a hillbilly way to handle the idle on a DBW vehicle).

Actually, my sources indicate Lola achieves this by micro-level torque management in conjunction with DBW. And I don't believe it is 1100 anymore. In fact, the control is so good, the PCM will account for load on these cars now to the extent that they will drive out through a clutch let-out on their own accord without stalling.

Regards,
Hymee.

BTW, Lola's quite the tinkerer, here's one of his hobbies:
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc7/bastage_2005/DSCN2804.jpg
He not only tunes these, but he builds them AND drives them. Much more close to rocket science (since this thing is a !@#$ing rocket) than a little PCM, which isn't as complex as a particular self-aggrandizing tool would like you to believe it is.

He was nice enough to let Juan and I climb into the seat (that's me in the picture). I was pretty surprised that I could fit in that thing (as was everyone else who witnessed it, I'm sure :lol: )

You bastage, I'm soooo jealous. I'd love to throw the leg over that thing! LOL! And don't flatter yourself - I don't mean you.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Nice! I always liked the open-wheel stuff. I'll have to settle for the Grand Am cars for now.

Eliminating the idle air bleed allows a much finer control over idle since the throttle isn't almost completely closed anymore.
The stability of the idle has more to do with the blower's proximity to the MAF than anything else. A proper MAF housing would go a long way to returning the MAF to its normal operating range.

In fact, the control is so good, the PCM will account for load on these cars now to the extent that they will drive out through a clutch let-out on their own accord without stalling.

When were they not that way? You are already in the 20% range at idle. There is plenty of torque authority on the part of the motor if you wanted to drive it at <2000 like you seem to fixated on doing.

Lola, speaking for myself, I'm glad to see you here. This is the kind of positive effort I hope for when I come to these forums. With the advent of the EFI Dude and being able to download new tunes and tweaks, I think now this S/C system is getting into the realm of Best In Class.

For those of you thinking about adding a meth kit to your car. We ran several dyno pulls yesterday with various meth spray nozzle configurations in order to really find out what works and what doesn’t.

All pulls were done with a malfunctioning intercooler (water pump works fine but somehow there is a water flow restriction problem somewhere around the two front mounted radiators). I’m going to work on that issue today. Also, all dyno pulls were restricted to 8,000 rpm. I told Cam that I was not interested in running the engine up to 9,000 rpm since I had a three hour drive back home and did not wanted to risk it.

Here are the findings:

1st pull (meth off) 283 whp
2nd pull (meth on) with a 225 ml nozzle before SC and a 100 ml nozzle after SC 268 whp
3rd pull (meth on) with a 225 ml nozzle before SC 270 whp
4th pull (meth on) with a 100 ml nozzle after SC 273 whp
5th pull (meth on) with a 100 ml nozzle before SC 281 whp

Bottom line:

The best pull with the meth kit on was the one with just a 100 ml nozzle before the SC (located just after the throttle body).

There was a decrease of 2 whp with the meth kit on but keep in mind that for the most part meth will not increase hp but rather assure no (or decrease the chance) of detonation and will buy peace of mind when pushing your FI system/engine to its limits.

Also, my current A/F ratio is very conservative (I can't exactly remember the numbers) and there is a lot more room for improvement. I do now have an EFI Dude and after (hopefully) I get done today resolving my intercooler water flow issue, will take the car for a drive and will post a couple of graph with my A/F ratios later today or tomorrow. :eyetwitch

You bastage, I'm soooo jealous. I'd love to throw the leg over that thing! LOL! And don't flatter yourself - I don't mean you.

Cheers,
Hymee.

:lol:

I do now have an EFI Dude and after (hopefully) I get done today resolving my intercooler water flow issue, will take the car for a drive and will post a couple of graph with my A/F ratios later today or tomorrow. :eyetwitch


Does your car have a wide band gauge or are you getting the A/F ratio from the ECU?

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc7/bastage_2005/DSCN2804.jpg
He was nice enough to let Juan and I climb into the seat (that's me in the picture). I was pretty surprised that I could fit in that thing (as was everyone else who witnessed it, I'm sure :lol: )


Hey Bastage....pls put this in the HAWT GUY THREAD!!! :lol2:

All pulls were done with a malfunctioning intercooler (water pump works fine but somehow there is a water flow restriction problem somewhere around the two front mounted radiators).


Juan, please follow-up with Bill regarding my recent conversations with him on the I/C. My second proto is being built right now and when it fits like a glove and Bill flogs it for me, I will go to full-scale production with it.

Does your car have a wide band gauge or are you getting the A/F ratio from the ECU?

The dyno measures the A/F ratio. BTW, I would have called you, but it was a last minute decision to go on our part. We DEFINITELY have to have some kind of SC reunion somewhere, preferably a track.

Lola, speaking for myself, I'm glad to see you here. This is the kind of positive effort I hope for when I come to these forums. With the advent of the EFI Dude and being able to download new tunes and tweaks, I think now this S/C system is getting into the realm of Best In Class.

The best part is, they are good people. The kind of people you can have any kind of conversation with for hours and hours and not realize you've been talking for hours. Just as importantly, they're the kind of people who don't say things during those conversations (technical or otherwise) that make you think they're completely full of themselves. They're also the kind of people that go out of their way to share information and don't try to cover everything in a shroud of secrecy.

Very classy people (and products).


When were they not that way? You are already in the 20% range at idle. There is plenty of torque authority on the part of the motor if you wanted to drive it at <2000 like you seem to fixated on doing.

I do this all the time, and it doesn't ever feel like it's going to bog. In stop and go traffic, this is a must. Gently letting off the clutch and letting the car smoothly move at a couple of mph seems like a feature that should have existed from the factory. Being able to smoothly cruise at 30 mph in 6th gear is also great (at 1500-2000 rpms), for those times where you're on a road that you wouldn't dare to speed on (roads with speed bumps/school zones/neighborhoods/in front of police stations :)) and you want to save a few dollars on gasoline.

Gently letting off the clutch and letting the car smoothly move at a couple of mph seems like a feature that should have existed from the factory. Being able to smoothly cruise at 30 mph in 6th gear is also great (at 1500-2000 rpms), for those times where you're on a road that you wouldn't dare to speed on (roads with speed bumps/school zones/neighborhoods/in front of police stations :)) and you want to save a few dollars on gasoline.

My N/A version, even with a light fly, has always had great idle control. Living on a dirt road I can't drive any faster than idle. I have idled in 4th without trouble. At extremely low rpms, though.:)

If you want to get better gas milage, watch your boost guage and try to keep the vacuum as high as possible(ie..further away from WOT). Doing this I was able to gain an additional 50 miles to a tank.

Juan--sweet info and JUST what I needed. Very close to installing mine---trunk mount 7 quart tank. Did you have to drill the pre blower spot or was it just a match. Where did you go with the power brake vacuum(the blower vacuum line?)
I rerouted my a/w cooler hoses to they are now just in series. I did this to make room for the rb air duct---works well and it seems that the intercooler in working great. It takes me a WHILE to warm the car up sufficiently to push her a little. 8K is my redline also.
My innovate LC 1 wideband SUCKS. I VERY carefully mounted and calibrated this thing and it worked for 1 1/2 days and DIED. No power--- cant do a damn thing with it. Tried it all. Their forum is full of problems with it--no more innovate for me --if it is this fickle---nope---i will do something. else.
Good point on the dyno----we are not tuning for the w/m system--it is for protection. Are you still running a cat?
olddragger

oh by the way do yall know lolas car weights only about 1600 lbs and has well over a ton of downforce---at speed it could drive upside down. AND you ought to see his rotary powered go kart. but look in the back and you see the computer...........:)
olddragger

seriously Bastage...

the ladies are waiting in the hawt guy thread!!

Juan, please follow-up with Bill regarding my recent conversations with him on the I/C. My second proto is being built right now and when it fits like a glove and Bill flogs it for me, I will go to full-scale production with it.


Ray

I'm pretty sure that if you go thru your back order notes for the the I/C you will find my name pasted all over. :yumyum:

[QUOTE=olddragger;2376452]Juan--sweet info and JUST what I needed. Very close to installing mine---trunk mount 7 quart tank. Did you have to drill the pre blower spot YES If I remember right Snow Performance recommends as close as possible to the TB if you are running the after TB setup.

Where did you go with the power brake vacuum(the blower vacuum line?) NO See pix below

Good point on the dyno----we are not tuning for the w/m system--it is for protection. Are you still running a cat? NOPE and don't call EPA BTW none of my cars have a CAT except my wife's Mazda6 :eyetwitch

For those of you thinking about adding a meth kit to your car. We ran several dyno pulls yesterday with various meth spray nozzle configurations in order to really find out what works and what doesn’t.

All pulls were done with a malfunctioning intercooler (water pump works fine but somehow there is a water flow restriction problem somewhere around the two front mounted radiators). I’m going to work on that issue today. Also, all dyno pulls were restricted to 8,000 rpm. I told Cam that I was not interested in running the engine up to 9,000 rpm since I had a three hour drive back home and did not wanted to risk it.

Here are the findings:

1st pull (meth off) 283 whp
2nd pull (meth on) with a 225 ml nozzle before SC and a 100 ml nozzle after SC 268 whp
3rd pull (meth on) with a 225 ml nozzle before SC 270 whp
4th pull (meth on) with a 100 ml nozzle after SC 273 whp
5th pull (meth on) with a 100 ml nozzle before SC 281 whp

Bottom line:

The best pull with the meth kit on was the one with just a 100 ml nozzle before the SC (located just after the throttle body).

There was a decrease of 2 whp with the meth kit on but keep in mind that for the most part meth will not increase hp but rather assure no (or decrease the chance) of detonation and will buy peace of mind when pushing your FI system/engine to its limits.

Also, my current A/F ratio is very conservative (I can't exactly remember the numbers) and there is a lot more room for improvement. I do now have an EFI Dude and after (hopefully) I get done today resolving my intercooler water flow issue, will take the car for a drive and will post a couple of graph with my A/F ratios later today or tomorrow. :eyetwitch

I would like to know the different intake temps based on where the meth nozzle is located.

Ray

I'm pretty sure that if you go thru your back order notes for the the I/C you will find my name pasted all over. :yumyum:

I sure do Juan, but the story gets better with Bill's help.:)

seriously Bastage...

the ladies are waiting in the hawt guy thread!!

Sorry, but the wife said NO!!! :eyetwitch

^
what he said

:lol2:

r u shittin me????

thats hardly considered lewd or lascivious...:dunno:

:yumyum: :naughty:

Yes, I'm shitting you (just like Juan was)

Yes, I'm shitting you (just like Juan was)

ok then....pls post it up, or i will!!!
:D:

Big thanks for FINALLY changing that avatar Pat! :)

Big thanks for FINALLY changing that avatar Pat! :)

you just better stay in line or i'll change it back :rollingla

Here is a sample of a WOT taken this evening after resolving the IC flow issue. :eyetwitch

Here is a sample of a WOT taken this evening after resolving the IC flow issue. :eyetwitch

That's with methanol right? Good stuff.

Juan was that with both nozzles going?
What are your w/m settings on the controller box. maf 3 to initiate?
I am actually things of using the vdi activation trigger the pcm has to trigger the w/m at 100%--but I am not sure yet. Advice?
Great info man---thanks
OD