hmmm--did my own--np's
did feel a little difference mid throttle and mid rpm's
hows your lft's?
did the pedal dance?
very nice job on that work
OD

well found a frayed wire to my purge control valve--fixed that and installed a different front 02 sensor. The one coming out did look like it had not enjoyed the ride. Better now but havent took a ltft look as of yet---need to drive it a little.
Now also getting a 2004 code---seems my apv is a little sticky---sigh will it ever end----HOPE NOT!
ODl

I finished my installation...
new coolant reservoir + fluid's (mazsport) cooling solution.

tell me what ya think :)

Looks nice, how hard was it to re-route the coolant lines?

thats looks nice.
heat shielded from exhaust?
OD

Thanks,

I'm not an expert but the coolant line was not hard to reroot:
The only point to think of is a T hose from under the reservoir to the top of the rad.

No heat shield yet...but I will work on this too soon.
I'll wait to lift my car so I'll take out the pipe going to the header.

If you end up working on a heat shield, I would like to see one down like Racing Beats shield for thier TII engines,,, Very simple, very clean, looks easy to install also considering our engine bays, and maybe instead of having the studs comd off the LIM they could be incorporated into the exhaust mani bolts.

http://i.imagehost.org/0019/RB_heatshield.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0019/RB_heatshield)

who has built their own cai was it rote8?
How did you do it?
OD

yup Rote8 and Phil has one that Ray built as well,,,

If you end up working on a heat shield, I would like to see one down like Racing Beats shield for thier TII engines,,, Very simple, very clean, looks easy to install also considering our engine bays, and maybe instead of having the studs comd off the LIM they could be incorporated into the exhaust mani bolts.

http://i.imagehost.org/0019/RB_heatshield.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0019/RB_heatshield)

How do you install this ?

who has built their own cai was it rote8?
How did you do it?
OD
If you want to see mine, look at my profile album pix and click on the pix of Ray working(?);)

Thanks Phil---great pics and exactly what I was looking for--looks like he used 3" aluminum pipe+connectors.
I am thinking of using a 3 1/2 OD pipe.
OD

No OD, all is 31/2" pipe, couplers and filter

Ok --guess my bifocals were not on straight.
thanks
OD

found a great site for cold air intake parts
" intakehoses.com" they have everything and it is cheap.
OD

found a great site for cold air intake parts
" intakehoses.com" they have everything and it is cheap.
OD

I thought you were building an intake, nice find ;)

I will let you know about the other thing soon.

Well, almost completed Wesses install but hit a road block. Ok , I went to remove the bolts to hold the heat exchanger and spun the metal tab that seats in the plastic of the rad. Any ideas?

Moon--- you talking about the oem radiator --right?
sounds like it is a nut and bolt time? Just drill through and use a nut on the backside or reem the plastic out and install a nut there--anchor with a good automotive silicone sealant like window weild.

Got ya RR and thanks--no rush just dont forget me?
OD

While you're at it Denny (or anyone else), I need a source for new oil cooler hoses. The junctions on mine look like they were hand-packed with Ohio salt and then wrapped in Saran wrap to enjure maximum corrosion. Now is the time to replace while the clip is off. I've been searching the net but can't find any OEM source.

Mine are the same way...

How is Cam doing everyone--I heard second hand that he may be sick?
OD

I talked to him late last week and he seemd fine, and Im talking to him tomorrow too....
I'll ask on your behalf...

How is Cam doing everyone--I heard second hand that he may be sick?
OD

Oh, crap. :SHOCKED:

Will call today.

Ok So you know that I change my oem coolant tank for an alluminium one.
if you look at the pict attached, you'll see the OEM one with numbers.

#1 - don't car about that one !
#2 - return for the thermostat.
#3 - going to the engine.
#4 - going (or return ?) to the radiator.

my question:
As My new tank does not have 4 hose plug, I tee the #4 hose in the #3 way.
Is it correct ?

HELP WANTED :tear:

thanks

i wouldnt do that---the number 4 is an overflow and PRESSURE RELEASE, by piping it back to the engine the excess pressure/air bubbles have no were to go.
Others please correct me if i am wrong.
OD

That's what I thought !
damn !!!!! so I would Tee it to the #2 (return form ttat)...

OK, so I installed my new BDC ported and polished TB yesterday. Some observations.
What do you think the 2mm one would look like?

Well by moving some stuff around and wedging stuff in--I placed an oil catch with vacuum on the master cylinder side of the engine bay. Believe me its needed.
I know picture right--yall know my rep!
OD

Well by moving some stuff around and wedging stuff in--I placed an oil catch with vacuum on the master cylinder side of the engine bay. Believe me its needed.
I know picture right--yall know my rep!
OD

I need a picture please....mine has been all over the engine bay and would like to see where you ended up. I hope it's above the fill point - I learned the hard way.

exactly Phil.
what i did was drill the Pettit oil filling cup ---the one which the cap screws into---and installed a 3/8 fitting. That is what feeds the catch can. and since my oil funnel inserts pass that point --its all good.
I used the mazdaspeed mastercylinder brace bolt to mount that Peittit oil fill cup instead of mounting it on the brake booster unit as per the instructions.
Dont you have your remote oil filter on the drivers side?
OD

exactly Phil.
what i did was drill the Pettit oil filling cup ---the one which the cap screws into---and installed a 3/8 fitting. That is what feeds the catch can. and since my oil funnel inserts pass that point --its all good.
I used the mazdaspeed mastercylinder brace bolt to mount that Peittit oil fill cup instead of mounting it on the brake booster unit as per the instructions.
Dont you have your remote oil filter on the drivers side?
OD

Yup, it sounds like where I had mine untill I installed the remote oil filter. Ended up moving it to the others side of the engine bay. I keep running out of room.

Moon--- you talking about the oem radiator --right?
sounds like it is a nut and bolt time? Just drill through and use a nut on the backside or reem the plastic out and install a nut there--anchor with a good automotive silicone sealant like window weild.

Got ya RR and thanks--no rush just dont forget me?
OD


The solution proved to be easier than that, Denny. I dropped the splash shield to get better access and then took a dremel tool with a small round carbide bur and split the nut on opposite sides. Came right off and didn't mess up the plastic mount any more than the 'spinning nut of doom' did.

Guess you could say I got a nut off :SHOCKED:

or not :hahano:

Got an Android phone yesterday, and damn, today, wouldn't you know it, I captured some video of some developmental testing of a new prototype, I'd feel bad if I didn't share it with you guys :smoker:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=3334241#post3334241

knite rider, yes!!!!

uhhhhhh-that scares me.
OD

You think after going to so much trouble they would get the LEDs synched up a little more evenly...

Cheers,
Hymee.

So Hymee... you're saying you've got experience with this accessory?:yelrotflm

well the owner is a Mustang owner so I wouldnt expect too much...

exactly Phil.
what i did was drill the Pettit oil filling cup ---the one which the cap screws into---and installed a 3/8 fitting. That is what feeds the catch can. and since my oil funnel inserts pass that point --its all good.
I used the mazdaspeed mastercylinder brace bolt to mount that Peittit oil fill cup instead of mounting it on the brake booster unit as per the instructions.
Dont you have your remote oil filter on the drivers side?
OD

Pictures please ! :aroused:

i will try asap---busy days lately.
i have been reading some on the importance of using a true vacuum catch can versus a breather can. What do yall think?
OD

What options are available for a front shock strut brace? I'm not satisfied with relocating the MazdaSpeed unit I've got in front of the mounts in order to clear the front of the supercharger, looks like that's going to put a lot of torsion on front corners. I've got the stock unit, but I'd like something with some bling to it.

poor pictures quality to explain my PM :D
look what I did :)

the simple windows function : cut & paste :lol:

simple is beautifull !

Which strut bar is that?

modded TCSportline :)
I did all the mod very simply : "cut & paste" lol

Hey JM - I just Googled "Guadeloupe FWI". Damn, bro, is that little island your own private track? You must rule, I can't see a lot of other competition!

i will try asap---busy days lately.
i have been reading some on the importance of using a true vacuum catch can versus a breather can. What do yall think?
OD

When reading up on that make sure you keep in mind the distinctions between N/A and F/I engines.

When reading up on that make sure you keep in mind the distinctions between N/A and F/I engines.

Charles, I'd appreciate it if you'd list a couple of those distinctions for my ongoing education. My instincts lead me along these lines: F/I engines have positive pressure intake downstream of the pressurizing device; increased intake air flow (vacuum) upstream from the turbo/sc; therefore, forced induction motors can produce higher vacuum. OK, that's as far as I get. I know this sounds pretty basic, but while I can dissect a motorcycle no problem, cars are proving more complex - either that or I'm missing the obvious.

Wes

they also provide more blowby
OD

When reading up on that make sure you keep in mind the distinctions between N/A and F/I engines.

Um, FI goes positive on the manifold pressure?

:rock:

Hey JM - I just Googled "Guadeloupe FWI". Damn, bro, is that little island your own private track? You must rule, I can't see a lot of other competition!
Yes it's not a big island :)
but it is beautifull :D

No race track :'( I had the project to create one with some friend of mine...standby.
But we now have a drag track :)

When my war exit (before it has to go) from paiting I take some picts with good background :)

i lived in the Jamicia x 3 yrs and had an oppitunity to go there---years ago. it was beatiful.

Guys---i am installing ---soon--this w/e ---a modified rear and front oil pressure regulators. Oil flow in our engines needs to be improved----watch for results.:)
OD

hey Od :)
didn't you take some picts of your oil catch can...

I'am ashamed but I do not have one yet

but good news : I start installing the pettit 2nd intercooler :)

i have a reputation concerning pictures i feel pressured to maintain!
OD

an exeption could be much appreciated ;)
especially concerning a never done before modification.

I noticed something since a long time... my fuel tank is under "pressure" !
a friend of mine told me that a problem might occure with the tank "pressure compensating valve"

May someone help me to resolve this problem (if there really is a problem) ?

hey just wondering but which hex do you guys remove on the supercharger to drain the oil?

I noticed something since a long time... my fuel tank is under "pressure" !
a friend of mine told me that a problem might occure with the tank "pressure compensating valve"

May someone help me to resolve this problem (if there really is a problem) ?

what is the problem ?
Yip your tank is under pressure - you will have a problem if you take a fuel line off in the engine bay and go away - don't ask me how i know !!@!!:mad:

hey just wondering but which hex do you guys remove on the supercharger to drain the oil?

I was told the bottom bolt on on the driver's side.

I use a small "brake bleeder" hand held vacuum pump with a 1/8 inch diameter hose to reach the bottom of the blower through the dipstick/fill hole.

Much less mess my way.
:icon_tup:

yes vacuum = win

i have a reputation concerning pictures i feel pressured to maintain!
OD

You've made exceptions before - I demand and exception this time:rant: If all else fails :scratchhe someone will help:pfanndina you.:yelrotflm Seriously, I would be very interested to see what you have and how you did it.

guess i will have to get my 22 yr old son back home to help.
OD

HELLLLLP !!
I install the greddy oil filter relocation kit...I turn the car on.... and while warming, I heard "CHTAK" !!
I turn off the car and have oil all over the engine (and the floor) :mchase:

Ok, so what broke : the screw where the oil filter used to be broke into the greddy "plate".
I do not know why ... I might have done something wrong (the oil pressure at iddle was 5psi instead of 2).

My questions : where can I buy this part ? what is the name of this part ?
I hope to fix it as soon as possible !:icon_no2:

HELLLLLP !!
I install the greddy oil filter relocation kit...I turn the car on.... and while warming, I heard "CHTAK" !!
I turn off the car and have oil all over the engine (and the floor) :mchase:

Ok, so what broke : the screw where the oil filter used to be broke into the greddy "plate".
I do not know why ... I might have done something wrong (the oil pressure at iddle was 5psi instead of 2).

My questions : where can I buy this part ? what is the name of this part ?
I hope to fix it as soon as possible !:icon_no2:

I am guessing Mazmart.

the most difficult thing is to locate the correct item number / name.
I know someone that may be able to do one for me but it really won't be like the OEM part.

i have never heard of that breaking before. Yes mazmart should have one.
oil pressure is 5psi at idle?? Holy crap that is too low man!!
mine was 30psi now is 38. see oil pressure discussion.
OD

What I need is the screw where the oil filter goes onto :'(

N3H1-14-311A might be the part you need. If you don't have the factory service manual, your best bet might be to go to the local Mazda dealer parts department and they will show you a picture of the part so you can be sure you are buying the right piece.

On the other hand, asking the right guys if they have some extra engine pieces might yield unexpected results..............

I am trying to get this part as fast as possible... :suspect:

but thanks for the part number...it is the correct one...

I am trying to get this part as fast as possible... :suspect:

but thanks for the part number...it is the correct one...

Make sure no bits are inside the motor.
:eek:

yep --pull the pan--you are right bro.
Damn never seen that happen before.
tough break dude--guess i am not the only one with "gremlins"
OD[

guys go to the tech section and read the end of the oil pressure discussion----really good stuff.
OD

Did I read somewhere in this thread that there is metal under tray available? The stock under-tray developed a crack and I had to remove the Pettit secondary radiator cuz I was afraid that it would drag the ground.

Brice is coming out with a metal undertray, but hasnt been released yet, you can find pics in Race Roots GTSpec Chassis bracing thread....

phil--just get a sheet of thin aluminum from lowes, home depo etc and use small bolts or rivets to reinforce the plastic.
you are a high speed freak (said with affection) and scooping all that air at high speeds is putting more stress on that underpanel.
od

do it in carbone :)

phil--just get a sheet of thin aluminum from lowes, home depo etc and use small bolts or rivets to reinforce the plastic.
you are a high speed freak (said with affection) and scooping all that air at high speeds is putting more stress on that underpanel.
od

While that worried me a little, I believe this time it may have been due to debris on the road (old tire pieces). I will just get a new plastic one and reinforce it like you suggested. When I remove the old one I will give it to my crew in the yard and see if they can make me a new one out of s/s or aluminum for a back up.

I just installed a 09 transmission every one
can you imagine at 70mph i am doing only about 3200 rpm?
the ration change between 4 and 5th is amazing-- they are now closer. Thats was want I was looking for.
Funny it doesnt shift as good as my 04 one. The shifter --not the trans. really a wide movement fron 2nd to 3nd. more to come
OD

Phil, can you pm me how much you paid for the secondary undertray cooling system? Cam hasn't called me back. Did it come w/ a new undertray or just a template to cut yours out.

No under tray included just a drawing with dimensional data for layout and cutting

Merry Christmas Everyone!!!!

and Peace on Earth!
MC all!
OD

and Peace on Earth!
MC all!
OD

Even the turbos.

:p:

Especially the turbos.

:p:

Fixed...:evil_laug

Lol

here we go again! lol
just saying.:)

Turbos need love too...

I can break any forced induction, with a lean enough tune.

Hey, we are all full of hot air.... UNITE!

true that! Lets just use "Force induced" Not "Blown" as in the old days.
OD

Merry Christmas Forced Inducers!!!

HO HO HO!!!

true that! Lets just use "Force induced" Not "Blown" as in the old days.
OD

In my old school days "blown" was a happy Saturday night.

:naughty:

Hi ! every one !
enjoy this christmas ?

I finaly finish the install of my Racing Brake 4 pistons brake...and guess what !
My car doesn't brake at all :'(

Hi ! every one !
enjoy this christmas ?

I finaly finish the install of my Racing Brake 4 pistons brake...and guess what !
My car doesn't brake at all :'(

Did you bleed the brakes?
Properly?
Clutch too, as it IS connected...
(I had to ask)

its hard to improve over the oem brakes.
Have to bleed the master cylinder also.
bet it looks good.
OD

Hi ! every one !
enjoy this christmas ?

I finaly finish the install of my Racing Brake 4 pistons brake...and guess what !
My car doesn't brake at all :'(

Merry Christmas to you too... once you get the brakes sorted out you won't be disappointed. I was very impressed with the Racing Brake BBK. I know a lot of people say you won't notice much difference between the OEM brakes and an aftermarket set, but I didn't find that to be the case at all. I noticed a huge difference with the RB set.

How does the Pettit s/c kit compare to the Hymee?

The only thing I can see is the Pettit kit uses a “water-to-air” intercooler and the Hymee kit uses an “air-to-air” intercooler. Horsepower ratings seem to be the same at the rear wheels from what I can tell.

Does the pettit kit use a 2.1L supercharger?

/\ someone fetch a can opener - the worms are getting restless !

/\ someone fetch a can opener - the worms are getting restless !

You serious?

How is this not a logical question? I am simply curious about the differences.

I am not a fucking troll.

I don't think he was belittling your question.
He was simply pointing out that you are probably not asking it in a place where you will get a serious, reasoned answer - something that is not terribly prevalent on this forum or in this thread.

I don't think he was belittling your question.
He was simply pointing out that you are probably not asking it in a place where you will get a serious, reasoned answer - something that is not terribly prevalent on this forum or in this thread.

My bad. :lol:

I sent Hymee an email asking the same question but I am sure he is too busy.

Where else should I ask this question? I figured this thread is where all the supercharger guys hang out so I would get lots of knowledgeable replies.

i hate seeing this thread pop up... i wanna be SC so bad. Congrats guys.

No methanol running.
7500 rpm
352 on the MAF
No, the MAF is not "scaled"
Check out that engine temp!

(I love this weather)

;)

i will do my best.
I believe the basic pettit kit and the hymee basic kit will produce very similar performance.
you are right that the pettit kit has an a/w intercooler and the hymee is a/a. both have their own pluses and minus's.
the pettit kit is a direct pulley drive with its own dedicated belt/pulley
the hymee has a single serpentine belt system for everything--water pump, alternator and s.c.
the hymee unit uses a layshaft from the belt pulley to the other end of the s.c.(he used a different mounting design)
both have custom uim's
both use the oem coils--pettit supplies aftermarket sparkplug wires as they mount the oem coils in a different location.
pettit uses a oem computer flash and updates/modifications if wanted via the EFI which is a flash unit and ob2 data logger. it is also part of the pro tuner family.
hymee uses the protuner for its flashing/tuning.?
hymee went to "stleath' styling as even the oem engine cover can be used:)
pettit is "right there"! :)
pettit is a self lubed system
hymee is tapped into the engines oil supply.
Thats what i think I know. Hope it can be of help.
OD

i will do my best.
I believe the basic pettit kit and the hymee basic kit will produce very similar performance.
you are right that the pettit kit has an a/w intercooler and the hymee is a/a. both have their own pluses and minus's.
the pettit kit is a direct pulley drive with its own dedicated belt/pulley
the hymee has a single serpentine belt system for everything--water pump, alternator and s.c.
the hymee unit uses a layshaft from the belt pulley to the other end of the s.c.(he used a different mounting design)
both have custom uim's
both use the oem coils--pettit supplies aftermarket sparkplug wires as they mount the oem coils in a different location.
pettit uses a oem computer flash and updates/modifications if wanted via the EFI which is a flash unit and ob2 data logger. it is also part of the pro tuner family.
hymee uses the protuner for its flashing/tuning.?
hymee went to "stleath' styling as even the oem engine cover can be used:)
pettit is "right there"! :)
pettit is a self lubed system
hymee is tapped into the engines oil supply.
Thats what i think I know. Hope it can be of help.
OD

Great info dragger. This was exactly what I was looking for. :rock:

Does this mean I wont be able to use my BHR coils on both systems?

i will do my best.
I believe the basic pettit kit and the hymee basic kit will produce very similar performance.
you are right that the pettit kit has an a/w intercooler and the hymee is a/a. both have their own pluses and minus's.
the pettit kit is a direct pulley drive with its own dedicated belt/pulley
the hymee has a single serpentine belt system for everything--water pump, alternator and s.c.
the hymee unit uses a layshaft from the belt pulley to the other end of the s.c.(he used a different mounting design)
both have custom uim's
both use the oem coils--pettit supplies aftermarket sparkplug wires as they mount the oem coils in a different location.
pettit uses a oem computer flash and updates/modifications if wanted via the EFI which is a flash unit and ob2 data logger. it is also part of the pro tuner family.
hymee uses the protuner for its flashing/tuning.?
hymee went to "stleath' styling as even the oem engine cover can be used:)
pettit is "right there"! :)
pettit is a self lubed system
hymee is tapped into the engines oil supply.
Thats what i think I know. Hope it can be of help.
OD

Seems like a serious and reasoned answer to me. :)

I am having a really hard time figuring out if the Hymee is worth the extra $1920.

Draggers breakdown confused me even more. lol

I will have cash in hand on the 8th so I really need to figure this out.

its hard to improve over the oem brakes.
Have to bleed the master cylinder also.
bet it looks good.
OD

Hi !

I bleed them again yesterday night !
much better...I am trying not to step too much oon the brakes for the first days...

Too Late : this morning an a*s H$^ùe brake just in front of me:cussing:; had to stand up on my brakes, what a difference between the oem brakes !

:p:

Seems like a serious and reasoned answer to me. :)
To me also just not technical but a good reasoned answer.

I am having a really hard time figuring out if the Hymee is worth the extra $1920.

Draggers breakdown confused me even more. lol

I will have cash in hand on the 8th so I really need to figure this out.
On a non technical basis, Hymee s/c is a thing of beauty and has a lot of "finnished" parts with it (polished). I am sure that the extra manhours in it is most of the higher cost. I believe that another part of the additional cost is that you get a complete pro-tuner system.

Great info dragger. This was exactly what I was looking for. :rock:

Does this mean I wont be able to use my BHR coils on both systems?

I can't speek for Hymee but the BHR coils will work just fine with the Pettit s/c as will the Cobb AP.

What is the status on the discontinued 1.7L Autorotors wrt the Pettit kit?

Cheers,
Hymee.

Status is that the manufactuer is asking Cam to put in an order of 50 to reproduce, Cam has about a dozen or so genuinely interested people, but with rumors of the blower being gone for good not too many people are interested in waiting for the list to grow...

Wow, so the 1.7L is discontinued! That changes everything.

I also like the fact that Hymee uses the bigger 2.1L s/c. This means it has the potential to be a more powerful system than the Pettit. :)

That makes my decision much easier. Thanks guys!

wow rote8---that is one gooding looking efi dude table!!
352grams/sec at 7.5K!!! Oh yea man!!!
what was the ambient temp?
load of 172!!
grunt it out baby, grunt it out!
OD

352grams/sec at 7.5K!!! Oh yea man!!!D

What is the % error between commanded AFR and actual at that flow rate?

you make me dizzy.
OD

you make me dizzy.
OD

lol. Sorry.

I wanted to know how far off the actual AFRs are on that car from the commanded values in the appropriate fuel table at that g/sec on the MAF.

A MAF value as a meter of power output is only useful when compared to that "error".

ok trying to learn:
if command equivalance ratio is = 0.95 then the 11.4 af*0.95 would be the actual a/f?
could you use trims to try and estimate this?
Or do you have to visualize the table on the computer?
am I on the right line of thought or have I become psychotic again?
I dont have access to that table as I dont have a cobb, etc unit .
od

ok trying to learn:
if command equivalance ratio is = 0.95 then the 11.4 af*0.95 would be the actual a/f?
could you use trims to try and estimate this?
Or do you have to visualize the table on the computer?
am I on the right line of thought or have I become psychotic again?
I dont have access to that table as I dont have a cobb, etc unit .
od

Commanded is the AFR in the fuel table... it is also output as an ODB2; so if your commanded AFR is 10 and you're getting 11 - then you are REALLY breathing in more air than the MAF sensor is scaled for (all things being equal).

Guys, does anyone have a good diagram for all the house routing in the pettit system for both vaccum and coolant? Thanks

Guys, does anyone have a good diagram for all the house routing in the pettit system for both vaccum and coolant? Thanks

I do not have a diagram;

Jet Air and OMP distribution block go to the passenger side MAF.
Blower vent and engine oil vent go to driver side MAF.

The OMP and Jet-Air go to the MAF through the throttle body "water heater" tube.

The fuel carbon canister line (smaller "fuel line" pipe) connects to the vacuum side of the blower, right near the blower bypass valve, but it goes through the electronic "purge valve" that came off the stock intake.

thanks Kane--got ya and thats make perfect sense.
Does make you wonder--i do know that Cam's tune does not touch the factory scaling of the maf.

Vacuum lines?
I deleted my jet air and sealed it all up(actually did more than that but i had to remove the intake to do it)
omp is stock set up and draws vacuum through the maf pipe as stated
blower vent is open to air
crankcase vacuum is on the drivers side maf pipe (i have a catch can installed and a small filter inbetween catch can and the maf pipe)
purge is like said
secondary intake valve is per oem and through the vacuum cannister off the oem set up
i do not have a vdi valve.
the bypass valve vaccum is from the pettit uim.
brake booster is unchanged.
i have probably left something out.
OD

Hi !

I have a problem !

My DSC is ALWAYS turned off !!!
I can no longer turn it on !! no DTC code (related to this :) ).

Does this have a matter with my new brakes ?
How can I solve this problem ???

Thanks,

took the wheel sensors off didnt ya? If not then check them all--may have a bad connection or sensor?
OD

Should the vdi line, coming off from next to the black connector in the vaccum tank thing, be blocked off? If so why? Sorry for the dumb questions.

Should the vdi line, coming off from next to the black connector in the vaccum tank thing, be blocked off? If so why? Sorry for the dumb questions.

I don't know...I thought it would be better to be blocked :)
don't want to let a vaccum line always open

took the wheel sensors off didnt ya? If not then check them all--may have a bad connection or sensor?
OD

wheel sensors ?I didn"t notice anything ?!

Did any of you guys with water/meth injection using BHR's throttle bottle spacer?

nope.
OD

nope.
OD

Wrong, again, Denny.

I think Rote8 bought one, but it's currently sitting in a box in his garage. I'm not sure if anyone else bought one.

It's a pretty nice piece.

I have one installed - pix are kinda old but show the location

I have one installed - pix are kinda old but show the location

I like the hose color, where did you find those?

And yes, I do have the spacer, I may use it again as a longer intake is always good.

ah dang---see what i know---
i do know most people also install a w/m nozzle AFTER the blower.
So there!
Happy New Year Ray!
OD

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=SIL

Picked up most of it here

i do know most people also install a w/m nozzle AFTER the blower.
So there!
Happy New Year Ray!
OD

You may want to consult those who have designed the various alky kits to see what they suggest through their own real-world experiences, as I have.

ok Ray --what do you suggest?
OD

ah dang---see what i know---
i do know most people also install a w/m nozzle AFTER the blower.
So there!
Happy New Year Ray!
OD

60 ml nozzle pre blower, 100 ml nozzle after the blower.
we have had best results with the 100 ml nozzle spray pattern hitting the inter-cooler through the outlet. (mount it on top or the rear of "the hump"; I/C side)

You should also insulate the bottom of the blower, the engine heats the S/C through radiant heat unless you have some heat reflective material.

i know---just wondering if Ray has more "ideas" to share.
The throttle spacer he has is a nice piece but i am afraid that with the size of my airfilter it will take up to much room. Plus I have found that if the nozzle is too close to the TB a residue will build on the butterfly and the backside of the TB.
OD

The spacer goes behind the TB, so no residue can build up.

What are you spraying that causes a residue, anyway?
Distilled water and and alcohol shouldn't be carrying anything that can build up.

i know---just wondering if Ray has more "ideas" to share.
The throttle spacer he has is a nice piece but i am afraid that with the size of my airfilter it will take up to much room. Plus I have found that if the nozzle is too close to the TB a residue will build on the butterfly and the backside of the TB.
OD

Yes, the residue builds up using the BHR spacer.
Anytime the throttle closes the alcohol mix in the intake tract is dispersed, including to the back of the throttle plates.

Boost-Juice leaves a pink stain, nitromethane leaves a brown stain, pure water methanol doesn't leave a stain.

I could install the spacer due to my cold air setup, but it is no longer needed, I have already tapped the intake for the methanol injection.

Update:
Residue has nothing to do with spacer, as Charles said.
High vacuum from throttle closing disperses the vapor to all points of the S/C intake track.

i know---just wondering if Ray has more "ideas" to share.
The throttle spacer he has is a nice piece but i am afraid that with the size of my airfilter it will take up to much room. Plus I have found that if the nozzle is too close to the TB a residue will build on the butterfly and the backside of the TB.
OD

Plenty, Denny.

If whatever mix you are injecting has the potential to leave a "residue" that residue will appear no matter where you place your nozzle. The spray pattern emitted is perpendicular to the flow of air and the plume is rather large because the objective is to vaporize the mix as quickly as possible. The visibility of residue is not indicative of a problem caused by the spacer and when alky or nitrous injection is programmed properly the throttle body is of little/no concern because injection only happens at WOT.

Even with unmodified RX-8s, a grayish residue will build up on the backside of the TB plate, especially at the outer edges of the butterfly, because that is where the highest negative pressure appears during most driving conditions and where any dirt has the greatest chances of becoming attached. Matter of fact, the entire UIM will see this same build-up if given enough time.

As for fitment, I thought the S/C owners were transitioning to some sort of manner in which to relocate the air filter from under the hood to behind the front bumper cover, as someone else first did and as I subsequently did on Phil's car?

I think Phil and Rote8 are still the only ones running a CAI setup with this kit.

I think Phil and Rote8 are still the only ones running a CAI setup with this kit.


I like mine there. :p:

after speaking with eric about sand dust and looking at used oil analysis i have changed my mind--mine is staying in the engine bay and i am ditching the k&N and looking for a paper element type.
Water meth nozzle 60 size has clogged more than once--reduced flow type of clog.
need to pay attention and turn the system off before shutting the engine off
we are using it way before wot.
OD

I thought it was a bad thing to install the w/m befor the S/C !
someone told me to install the noozle only after the S/C or else it might damage the S/C ???

original question:
Should the vdi line, coming off from next to the black connector in the vaccum tank thing, be blocked off? If so why? Sorry for the dumb questions.

I don't know...I thought it would be better to be blocked :)
don't want to let a vaccum line always open

its not open, its routed same as before the sc went on,

searching around i've seen its been capped off, why is that?
i've been running with it connected, is that a problem?

after speaking with eric about sand dust and looking at used oil analysis i have changed my mind--mine is staying in the engine bay.
OD

Besides my UOA, what other ones have you seen that had sand/dust issues?

I have yet to check my filter but remember that my sample of that oil wasn't taken in the greatest fashion. Most of the sample was dripped from the pan bolt so it's possble I picked up some dirt particles from the oil pan itself.

eric has blown 2 engines in Daytona and actually they found sand in the engine, Speedsource has done the same. It was k&N filters ran outside the engine bay. They had other material on the k&N to supposedly block the sand and dust. the 1st engine didnt last a day, the 2nd the same. They both have oem style boxes now with paper filters. The flow difference is insignificant.
So I 'm figuring that k&N is not a good filter to run constantly outside or inside the engine bay. Plus my uao was higher than normal in certain metals that can suggest that the air wasnt filtered well.
thats my story and i am sticking to it.
OD

eric has blown 2 engines in Daytona and actually they found sand in the engine, Speedsource has done the same. It was k&N filters ran outside the engine bay. They both have oem style boxes now with paper filters. The flow difference is insignificant.
So I 'm figuring that k&N is not a good filter to run constantly. Plus my uao was higher than normal in certain metals that can suggest that the air wasnt filtered well.
OD

So I guess where I am going with this is: Is this a problem with the K&N filter design or simply with the filter location? I'm using the AEM dryflow filter so it's designed to not be used with oil.

I'm sure AEM has filter sizes that would fit your application so that's an option.

agreed---the short time frame to blow the engines where due to the filter placement--like a mazdaspeed cai location.
But for a daily driver and many more hours of running time i rather be safe than sorry and run a paper type.
Correct again--i am looking at the AEM and the Airraid.
Right now i have a fine filter shop vac bag wrapped around my K&N.
OD

Ummm SS's intake has been always in the engine bay, and thier engine blew last year not because there was sand getting through the filter... As for eric, dont know his circumstances were but playing bumper cars couldnt have helped...
Now Im not saying it wasnt a factor, but I would not pin one symptom to a blown engine in the highest speed endurance race of the year,,,

http://f.imagehost.org/0373/CIMG1266.jpg (http://f.imagehost.org/view/0373/CIMG1266)

http://f.imagehost.org/0747/CIMG1054.jpg (http://f.imagehost.org/view/0747/CIMG1054)
http://i.imagehost.org/0802/CIMG1053.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0802/CIMG1053)

I'm sure AEM has filter sizes that would fit your application so that's an option.

Sorry, Bro, AEM does not have a filter size needed to do as I did with Phil's air filter location. Otherwise I would have used one. They may have one in a size Denny would need/want, though.

Something I wonder about the sand issue; how many laps in those racecars were spent behind other cars that repeatedly clipped apexes too close or ran off-course throwing dust around the place?

Sorry, Bro, AEM does not have a filter size needed to do as I did with Phil's air filter location. Otherwise I would have used one. They may have one in a size Denny would need/want, though.


So does that make me 1/2 right or totally wrong? :dunno:

Makes me stupid for glossing over what you wrote. :lol2:

how about a S.Steel air filter (like blitz) ?

original question:
Should the vdi line, coming off from next to the black connector in the vaccum tank thing, be blocked off? If so why? Sorry for the dumb questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JMKuco View Post
I don't know...I thought it would be better to be blocked
don't want to let a vaccum line always open
its not open, its routed same as before the sc went on,

searching around i've seen its been capped off, why is that?
i've been running with it connected, is that a problem?

anyone?

how about a S.Steel air filter (like blitz) ?

I had one of those a few years ago and I am not confident that it can filter microns as small as the OEM filter or even an AEM Dri-Flo.

metal filter is the worse in filtering ability period.

Speed source did in fact have trouble in the early days with k&N out side the engine bay. This was during the developement stage.
Dirt kicked up on the race track is no different that the dust and dirt that is kicked up on the road.
The sand Eric found in the oil pan was more like a dust than beach sand.

I have come to not trust a air filter I have to oil to insure filtering. To many what if's.
Thanks for the aem feedback guys---Airraid MAY be a workable brand--looking into it. Some made for deisel trucks that may work.
OD

God played a joke on humanity by making nothing absolute. Period. :lol2:

if we had absoulutes then we couldnt have free associations.
So I am doomed to remain bought tempted and confused all my life.
OD

Exactly. And then try to make a living with all the variables life has included in it!

Which swaybars are the best?
Which coilovers are the best?
Which F/I is the best?
Which cat-back is the best?

Ad nauseum, but I love this job......:lol2:

I have to agree with Charles initials statements of residue will build up no matter how much you filter. Using K&N filters in my Sprint Car racing days on dirt with pre-filter covers that go over the filter itself, residue even if slight still got in with all the mud and dust we kicked up.

My parents neighbor owns a parts warehouse that brands namely WIX filters and they went to a seminar that showed how the K&N filters fell apart easily degrading while the WIX ones held up much better. If you're really worried about keeping it clean, spray a light oil protective compound over the filter to catch more particles, get a pre-filter to go over the filter itself and take the filter off each weekend to clean up inside. The only real assurance you have is your own preventative maintenance.

one of my dads maxims (in fact my favourite of his) is :
"Tastes and colours cannot be discussed"

It would save many a stupid internet argument if people realised that!

PS Happy New Year everyone!

talking with some desert guys seems foam overlay on the k&n is the best way of dealing with this if you dont do paper
od

talking with some desert guys seems foam overlay on the k&n is the best way of dealing with this if you dont do paper
od

how about the greddy or hks "mushroom" air filter ?

Lord no---worse non metal filter out there!

I have wondered why my K&N seems to never get dirty:)
OD

why is it worse ?
When I see this damned price I thought they were at least good to use ?

they dont filter down to a small enought size of particle.
If you are stuck with it ---then at least add some K&N open cell foam around it.
That will help a lot.
OD

I will check my K&N today, I am sure it needs oil.

i am actually looking at a big shop vac filter/--would have to make a custom mounting plate........
actually can get a heppa type!
OD

careful with Heppa, we have to go through health inspections at work before we're allowed to dawn Heppa, becasue it actually restricts breathing, I cant imagine what it would do on something breathing in 300+g/s ...

I want a Dyson air filter...
Filters the air and picks up pet hair too.:rollingla

na --- not going to heppa it:)--but after removing my k&N (which was oiled only 1 month ago) and being able to see clean areas of light coming through tiny holes---i did place a open cell foam wrap around it. this helps
I havent made up my mind what to do about the air filter yet.
I want to keep it in the engine bay, i just got a temp measuring tool so i can monitor the temp at the air filter to try and see if i have enough cool air coming in during driving (wish we could monitor the iat with the efi dude). Winter time doesnt help with this.
If I am not then its either installing the yaris air duct or outside the engine bay i go in some sort of protected area.
Either way i will not ever be running a plain k&n anymore.
I also have to make a filter heat shield---sigh.
OD

well data shows conclusivly that a air cleaner heat shield is needed. Temps can go up 20 degrees in my car with just 1/2 throttle application.
Temps measured on the air filter---so when it is sucking in underhood air--temps rise fast.
i do have air movement in there as during cruise it cools down---but the area needs sealing.
od

na --- not going to heppa it:)--but after removing my k&N (which was oiled only 1 month ago) and being able to see clean areas of light coming through tiny holes---i did place a open cell foam wrap around it. this helps

OD, thanks for the info on the K&N foam. I never knew such a thing existed. This has been added to my upcoming spring maintenance plans. :yesnod:

Anyone happen to know the dimensions of the filter in the Racing Beat REV-i kit? Mine is burried under a foot of snow at the moment.

- Dave

its big! And custom--so you will have to make your on. Not hard to do.

That's sort of what I figured... The available sizes for the foam seem rather limited. No prob. Looks like one of the cut-to-size kits will do the trick.

well after more data and some experimentation---i found out what some others already know and tried to tell me. The airfilter has to go outside the engine bay to get good intake temps
SO mazda speed or aem type here I come. Coarse it has to be home built because i aint paying over 300 for some pipe.
OD

Well I did not want to say anything cuz of where I live and the temps I see.......PM Ray as he did mine and can tell you what to get and where to get it.......I would not say cheap way just less expensive than the alternative. It works...... Keep it above the bumper support bar as temps from below are too high.

intakehoses.com

ok good thing to know, but an enclosed air filter (BMC or green Twister) may be as good ?!

I dont know those?
I am thinking about the aem positioned right outside the engine bay
straight pipe--- no bends.

With several people now going over the 300rwp mark---what are yall doing about the ignition?
Are yall running colder plugs for dd?
Reset dwell with aftermarket coils? Aftermarket coils with no dwell adjustment will not increase the spark energy----right?
OD
OD

I dont know those?
I am thinking about the aem positioned right outside the engine bay
straight pipe--- no bends.

With several people now going over the 300rwp mark---what are yall doing about the ignition?
Are yall running colder plugs for dd?
Reset dwell with aftermarket coils? Aftermarket coils with no dwell adjustment will not increase the spark energy----right?
OD
OD

MSD ignition
stock plugs seem to work better.
I do not know about dwell, never changed it.:rolleyes:

K&N Panel Filter in Standard "Cold Air Intake" for me. :wiggle:

Cheers,
Hymee.

I dont know those?
OD

green is a famous air filter in rally, in europe it is more use then k&n :
http://www.tuningracingcars27.com/images/kit_admission_directe_green_speedR_twister.gif

BMC create this Carbone Air Filter
https://www.ragingspeed.co.uk/catalog/images/bmc-cda1.jpg

I'm looking forward to try one of those later :)

those look cool---dont change the maf pipe though.
we have to be careful of changing the air supply unless you are into tuning.
OD

hymlee what kind of intake air temps are you getting?
Trying to make the s.c. last longer--course i do spray w/m before the s.c. when intake temps get high. That protects it but i want cool air also.
never mind i just remembered you have that big asre air intercooler mate!

By the way---installed the aem filter last night --extended the intake so that the filter is butt up agaisnt the engine bay inlet hole thing. Temps measured at the intake (between filter and the bottom of the tray is only about 3-4 degrees above ambient. it does heat soak when you are not moving , but it does cool off once you start again.
The filter would not fit outside the engine bay.

a/f's actually change in a smoother transistion now????
I will never run a K&N again.

been searching, and not sure if this has come up. but has anyone replaced the tiny intercoolers with a bigger one?

like a intercooler for a turbo?

i know air heats up when compressed

Our intercooler system is an air to water system not air to air,,,
Hymee however runs an air to air on his system,,,

My car is at the "paint job"...
I am installing new bumper (for air flow) + new hood (not seibon).
I'll try this way to let the heat get outside the engine bay.

2010 objective : w/m :)

Our intercooler system is an air to water system not air to air,,,
Hymee however runs an air to air on his system,,,

thank you so much.

i've never like air to water, except for like a dedicated drag car.

do not depend totally on any intercooler to control the charge temps. get a w/m kit for that.
a/a, a/w doesnt matter. both do what they are designed to do. but w/m is really needed......imho
OD

New MAF readings, I need a tune still...
:yelrotflm:yelrotflm:yelrotflm

wait a minute:) Where does the apv open?
this is at 7.9K????
OK festus---give it up?
How do you get such straight sensor lines--mine always has little jiggly line?

wait a minute:) Where does the apv open?
this is at 7.9K????
OK festus---give it up?
How do you get such straight sensor lines--mine always has little jiggly line?

LOL, I have no idea, I just make the logs with the dongle.
Which lines?
If you mean the A/F straight line at 11.2, that is bogus, the logs won't go that low.
I still need to cut some fuel, this is running at 10.2 A/F for those AF ratios logged at what appears to be 11.2.


PS: see later post from 01-18-2010, 03:19 PM

are you going to dyno soon? All excited here!!
OD

I still need to cut some fuel, this is running at 10.2 A/F for those AF ratios logged at what appears to be 11.2.

maybe a fuel pressure regulator could help ?!

What I do not understand is that I run lean BUT my car smells fuel like if it were rich :crazy:
I'll order a glowshift wideband gauge

what do you mean "lean"
OD

maybe a fuel pressure regulator could help ?!

What I do not understand is that I run lean BUT my car smells fuel like if it were rich :crazy:
I'll order a glowshift wideband gauge


A real fuel system with a return line to the tank from a pressure regulator would help...:rock:

PS about running boosted under load:
low A/F numbers like 10.2 are way rich and foul plugs, 11.5-12 is ideal, over 12 is asking to instantly remove your Apex seals the hard way.

Cam is the man....

I have approval to tell....
Low compression rotors in the Renesis seems to be working.
Cam still will not call it proven, but he said it can be told now.
I have 9 to 1 rotors from an FD with the Renesis style gas control rings.
Cam feels that until he can see the state of the used parts, it's not proven.

But it isn't breaking yet....

oh boy---talk about peak power boost-- you may have to upgrade that SC dude and or maf scaling!!??

I d/ced my purge valve and the car runs better especially recovering from boost to idle.

thats awesome Rote, Cam offered to do the same thing for me, but when I needed my new engine, Mazda refused to send out the new one then install,,,

Good Luck, Ive been talking to Cam about something different entirely which will have to wait for all the piece to assemble, but hes all for it,,,
hint hint think 5 to 1 header,,,,

what do you mean "lean"
OD

I've got a CEL P0171 system too lean since I install the S/C
I add a new fuel pump (255lph), but nothing change.

When I drive, the 02 sensor is not lean but at iddle or when I stop accelerating, it goes full lean !!

I need a wide band gauge :s

but I aws wondering if the probleme does not come form my air filter (not enought air)

FYI

Cam has also been machining Renesis rotors to work with FD apex seals. A few months back I lost compression on the front rotor due to a broken apex seal (pics will be coming soon). We took that motor apart and learned that the surviving apex seals had very little wear (which proves premixing and frequent oil changes really helps). I think it was caused by some bad detonation I had early this past summer (which is what ultimately led me to swap my Yukon ignition coils back in July for the MSD coils) under high boost.

Cam built me a typical street-ported Pettit engine with these new machined rotors. 1500 miles later the car is running stronger than ever.

Lots of new and interesting R&D going on at Pettit right now.

FYI

Cam has also been machining Renesis rotors to work with FD apex seals. .

Sorry to hear that you lost an engine Bastage - join the club LOL .
Are those 2mm 1 piece seals ?

Sorry to hear that you lost an engine Bastage - join the club LOL .
Are those 2mm 1 piece seals ?

haha yeah I was a little bummed initially, but I'm really happy about it now. It was fun pulling the motor out.

Yeah, supposedly they're 60% stronger than the Renesis seals. We'll see how long they can handle 12psi.

good to know. Glad it worked for ya.
also good about the wear.
You do have w/m dont ya? Cant remember.
how was the front stationary bearing?
with 12 psi and a good tune i bet you are pulling strong.

Oh by the way--i got rid of my yukons/ls2 also. running oem with a twin fire plug and play. like it much better!
OD

good to know. Glad it worked for ya.
also good about the wear.
You do have w/m dont ya? Cant remember.
how was the front stationary bearing?
with 12 psi and a good tune i bet you are pulling strong.

Oh by the way--i got rid of my yukons/ls2 also. running oem with a twin fire plug and play. like it much better!
OD

Less than 20 thousandths of an inch of wear after ~43,000 miles (25000 of them boosted)

Cam says he's seen N/A RX-8 motors with only 18,000 miles with a lot more wear than that. Front bearing was good. Front rotor and housing were TOAST. I was coming off of a road into a parking lot when it died. The road was under construction so the transition into the parking lot included a 1/2 inch drop. I went over this drop at about 3mph and the car immediately shuddered and died (the vibration caused the cracked seal to finally come loose). I have a good picture of the rotor face with a nice tattoo of where the seal made it's first impact. It was running great before it died (even with the cracked seal). I wish it had given me a clue beforehand so I could have salvaged the rotor and the housing, but oh well.

I have been running W/M since June of 2008, btw.

love watching our community grow. keep it up guys, want to be a part of the sc club! :)

come on an join up!
Aint that a bitch--that bump caused the seal to come loose!
I have seen a housing (mine) like you say--mine was so bad --like yours -- it actually ruined the rotor too.
Good news on the rest of it
i dont know why i couldnt remember you were already running w/m.
How the heck are you getting 12psi of boost? At best I am getting 10 at 8K.

I have figured out and done a cold air vent that actually works.
Involves notching the front bumper/cutting out some of the sealed parts of the grille and doing a slight redirection in the airflow. Works really good, keeps the filter in the engine bay and no outward mods apparent.
OD

Bigger crank pulley.... I can actually get 13 for a little while if I go all the way to redline...

pictures of the cold air vent?

Bigger crank pulley.... I can actually get 13 for a little while if I go all the way to redline...

Make your own pulley or did Cam do it for you?

you could always machine a samller SC pulley too, I dont know the ratio, but Cam could probably give you some specs on it, the Larger Crank pulley is getting pretty big already as is,,,

Already working on it - just checking to see if you did your own.

nah I have Cams,,,
I havent installed it yet, my new engine only has 800 miles on it, once I hit a couple thousand or so its going on,,,

Phil----with a bigger pulley you will need to upgrade your injectors if you havent already?
how much boost are you running now? That 4 port is probably doing 12 psi already?
At some point the s.c. itself will need upsizing -- i have Cam's bigger pulley on and I cant get to 12psi. Mafs reading are great getting over 330 at 8K and ambient temps at low 90.
Removing the purge valve really did help my recovery from full throttle to idle. I was surprised.

Cant take pictures of my cai design without removing the front clip. Just imaginge that the front bumper support for abount 8"'s has been turned into a ski slope channeling air to the enlarged airbox opening. Then imagine the intake being long enough to touch that opening and THEN imagine the top two rows of the plastic grill having the little spaces being open and then you have it!!
Simple and effective and it also helps cool the w/m tank!
Ambient this a.m was 64 F, temp on the botton side of the airfilter was 66F while doing 35mph----cooooool!
We will see about this summer.
OD

Phil----with a bigger pulley you will need to upgrade your injectors if you havent already?
All ready did that. Can't remember which set I ended up with.
how much boost are you running now? That 4 port is probably doing 12 psi already?
It was not real consistant mostly 10psi if I remember correctly
At some point the s.c. itself will need upsizing -- i have Cam's bigger pulley on and I cant get to 12psi. Mafs reading are great getting over 330 at 8K and ambient temps at low 90.
I also have the larger pulley and while it helped it was not the end all.
Removing the purge valve really did help my recovery from full throttle to idle. I was surprised.

Cant take pictures of my cai design without removing the front clip. Just imaginge that the front bumper support for abount 8"'s has been turned into a ski slope channeling air to the enlarged airbox opening. Then imagine the intake being long enough to touch that opening and THEN imagine the top two rows of the plastic grill having the little spaces being open and then you have it!!
Simple and effective and it also helps cool the w/m tank!
Ambient this a.m was 64 F, temp on the botton side of the airfilter was 66F while doing 35mph----cooooool!
We will see about this summer.
OD
Ray has come up with an idea on the pulley and we will be trying that soon.

Ray has come up with an idea on the pulley and we will be trying that soon.

I am really looking forward to seeing how that pans out.

I am really looking forward to seeing how that pans out.
As I am...I'm gonna get 300 whp and still have a daily drivable AT four port. I only need 40 more hp.

how many # of boost will you need for another 40hp?
Or are you trying to do more motor--some way?
Watching with great interest. You do it old man:)
OD

how many # of boost will you need for another 40hp?
Or are you trying to do more motor--some way?
Watching with great interest. You do it old man:)
OD
Hoping to try it first with consistent boost and not the variable kind of boost that seems prevalent. We will see if consistent boost is possible this weekend.

Hey guys. I purchased a fuel pump removal tool from NAPA and have had no luck with it. Is there some trick that I am not aware of?? Do i need to move the two tabs that are located around the base of the ring?? My car has been down for a while and due to wrecking my dd I am trying to get the 8 back on the road.

-Yambo

Hey Morkus,,,
When I did mine I bought the oe hardware that needs to be cranked open just in case something broke I had spare pieces to put in place, you may just want to buy some of those and not worry about breaking them when takeing the furel pump apart,

Part numbers and names_
F151-42-A15B Thread Ring $50.93
F151-42-A14A Union Nut $44.78
F151-42-A61 Fuel Gasket $56.36

I have another complete pump assembly which i'm going to install. Would I still need a new union nut and fuel gasket?

Also, is there a way to test if the pump in operational without cranking the car and before re-installing the covers and back seat??

-Yambo

Hey guys. I purchased a fuel pump removal tool from NAPA and have had no luck with it. Is there some trick that I am not aware of?? Do i need to move the two tabs that are located around the base of the ring?? .................................................. ..................................
-Yambo
I also purchased one and did not have any luck with it - just made my own and it worked fine. Only item that I found that should be changed is the o ring and it is available at Ace hardware.

I have another complete pump assembly which i'm going to install. Would I still need a new union nut and fuel gasket?

Also, is there a way to test if the pump in operational without cranking the car and before re-installing the covers and back seat??

-Yambo
Let me know if you find a way to do the test

The only thing I can think of is the noise it makes when you turn on the power, should be a high pitched whine preceeded by a double click and a low(almost inaudible) whirl...
Other than that:dunno:

i wouldnt test it outside the tank.
to remove that fuel plump ring i use a very very dull wide chisel (really blunted on the enf and a rubber hanner and rapidly hei it without a lot of force. Imagine impact wrench tech. Works everytime from me.

Do the two tabs have anything to do with the removal? Is there anything locking it in place?

I tried many thing ! had a hard time...
I fianly bought the mazda tool : did open it in 2 second without any difficulties :)

Cam built me a typical street-ported Pettit engine with these new machined rotors. 1500 miles later the car is running stronger than ever.So when are you and Juan heading back to the dyno? :)

I tried many thing ! had a hard time...
I fianly bought the mazda tool : did open it in 2 second without any difficulties :)

How much did the mazda tool cost? Did you get it from a dealer?

just clic here (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=787355&siteid=214264&catalogid=4010) !

it's very good stuff !!

anybody tryied the feed 4.777 final gear set with the pettit S/C ?

I heard this kit is not that interesting....

So when are you and Juan heading back to the dyno? :)

Hopefully within the next 3 weeks.

On your meth kits? are most of you using 60ml/min preblower and 100ml/min postblower nozzles? Those of you using MAF controlled kits, at what voltages are you setting it up for?

i wouldnt test it outside the tank.
to remove that fuel plump ring i use a very very dull wide chisel (really blunted on the enf and a rubber hanner and rapidly hei it without a lot of force. Imagine impact wrench tech. Works everytime from me.

I tried the chisel and rubber hammer. No joy. I'm going to try and borrow a mazda tool from a fellow member. If that doesn't work, I am taking it to a local shop, since i'm not 100% sure the pump is the problem.

Anybody ever hear of national speed in wilmington, nc??

On a more positive note, the lower compression rotors for the renesis is great news!! This is what we have been waiting for. I personally will not do it cause my car is my dd, but with these rotors 400+ reliable hp should be the new benchmark. One of you pioneers who allready has these should (easy to say since its not my car) ask Cam for a custom pulley ration that will allow you to achieve the magical dyno queen #s!!

........To help the above person with the issue with the fuel pump removal if you have time to wait for delivery. If you have access to a Mac Tools dealer they have a tool for about 25$ I bought one and am still unsure to if it works yet, but heres the item number. FP940 Fuel Pump Removal Tool. It looks pretty legitimate might save you money rather then bringing it to a shop. I found this on an old post for an esmeril kit build.

Gear RATIO !!!!!!!!!!!!

every one knows about the feed or KS Ring & Pinion Set 4.77:1 ratio

mazdapseed offer a 5.12:1 ratio !!!

need advice about those parts :D

Depends on what you want to use the car for. I would actually prefer taller gears with FI. However, I don't plan on tracking or dragging my car.

4.77 (in my opinion) is for people with lower power looking to perk up acceleration.
With FI power, it seems like a silly idea (for a street car, anyway)

the lower ratio is great for performance. the ratio provided by that diff and oem tire size is about the same as the oem diff and a 24.5 inch tall tire. i ran such a tire on the track for a little while. It provides better acceleration for the higher gears but i found myself having to use 6th gear even on short tracks. i would not do this on the street with our power band.
what i have found is a combo of the 09 trans and our powerband + oem rear is just the ticket i have been looking for.
3-4-5th gear are now very ,very good and very close in ratio. Yet 6th gear is a true overdrive allowing me to only turn 3.2K rpm at 65mph
hope that helps.
ps we dont need more power to get out of the corner when we cant do it under full throttle now?
OD

Hopefully within the next 3 weeks.
Awesome. Looking forward to seeing the new numbers for both cars!!! :ylsuper:

the lower ratio is great for performance. the ratio provided by that diff and oem tire size is about the same as the oem diff and a 24.5 inch tall tire. i ran such a tire on the track for a little while. It provides better acceleration for the higher gears but i found myself having to use 6th gear even on short tracks. i would not do this on the street with our power band.
what i have found is a combo of the 09 trans and our powerband + oem rear is just the ticket i have been looking for.
3-4-5th gear are now very ,very good and very close in ratio. Yet 6th gear is a true overdrive allowing me to only turn 3.2K rpm at 65mph
hope that helps.
ps we dont need more power to get out of the corner when we cant do it under full throttle now?
OD

HI !

Thanks for the answer !!

I actually do some drag race with my car so I need all the hints for those 1/4 miles race :ylsuper:

On your meth kits? are most of you using 60ml/min preblower and 100ml/min postblower nozzles? Those of you using MAF controlled kits, at what voltages are you setting it up for?

Anyone?

By any chance would any of you happen to know if there is a large wait for the SCII right now? I would love to officially join this club soon.

By any chance would any of you happen to know if there is a large wait for the SCII right now? I would love to officially join this club soon.

Maybe you should call Cam?
http://www.pettitracing.com/contact.htm

^Thanks I was posting here to see if any of you knew first as the SC community keeps pretty decent contact with Cam right? In any case I did just that.

^Thanks I was posting here to see if any of you knew first as the SC community keeps pretty decent contact with Cam right? In any case I did just that.
Most of us talk to Cam, some more than others. What we understand today as fact sometimes changes by tomorrow. Best speek to the man on availability but feel free to come to us with operational and performance questions.

Most of us talk to Cam, some more than others. What we understand today as fact sometimes changes by tomorrow. Best speek to the man on availability but feel free to come to us with operational and performance questions.

Phil hit it right on the head,,,

concerning the water meth nozzle size you are correct i think. I run that size. I do adjust my maf controller to different settings from time to time depending on the weather and whether ot not i am on track etc.
One thing is VERY important---you have to keep cool air to the filter at all times . this is protect the s.c. from having to deal with HOT air. Tant'd good for long life.
OD