????QUESTION???
When doing a drag race, what RPM do you "Charge" before releasing the clutch ?
because yesterday I had a hard time making my car start without "drifting"

sounds like its time for stickier tires, Ive only dragged once with this kit, and it was pretty hard to loosen the tires up, I do have sticky 275s in the rear though,,, I dropped it around 4500rpm,,,

Yep - tyres are not sticky enough... Need more traction. You can't get an answer like that from a forum. You need to work it out yourself, from experience.

4500 RPM - Pussy :stickpoke ;)

Cheers,
Hymee.

hahaah yeah I like to eeeaaasssee it in in first,,,

Bastage and Marsreddr go to the track all the time,,, they will probably tell ya 6-7K, or something,,,

Bastage and Marsreddr go to the track all the time,,, they will probably tell ya 6-7K, or something,,,

6-7K ?? this is too much High due to the wheels power given by pettit :yelrotflm !
by the way, I was looking a way too cool the air intake and / or the intercooler+ rad.
What do you guys think of Co2 ?
air intake kit (http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=4)

????QUESTION???
When doing a drag race, what RPM do you "Charge" before releasing the clutch ?
because yesterday I had a hard time making my car start without "drifting"


This works for me:
Drop the rear tire pressure to 20-24 pounds.
Rev the engine to about 4000 to 5000 rpm, do no add throttle till the clutch is fully engaged.

Bastage can leave at 6K with drag radials.

If you can't leave at max power then you haven't got enough grip, and your missing out on some tenths. And if something breaks, then it was too weak to begin with :)

Cheers,
Hymee.

this aint no drag car:)
no co2--water meth.
Hymlee you running stock motor mounts?
OD

If you can't leave at max power then you haven't got enough grip, and your missing out on some tenths. And if something breaks, then it was too weak to begin with :)

Cheers,
Hymee.

That's a very harsh but fair summation of dragging I reckon!

This works for me:
Drop the rear tire pressure to 20-24 pounds.
Rev the engine to about 4000 to 5000 rpm, do no add throttle till the clutch is fully engaged.

Agree, however this should give you a baseline. Play around with it (rpmwise) until you find a sweetspot :eyetwitch

1- I've got a hard time finding a website for my SC V-belt :( (help wanted)

2- I decided to remove my brand new Re-Medy thermostat (used 1 week)...I'm gonna brake the OEM Ttat so that the coolant always go through !

:wiggle: 3- A friend of mine (used to work at frerrari's garage) told me to add a turbo to the pettit blower ! what a coooollll idea !!! I am not that fool (for now) but I will be excited to see that :wiggle:

4- finaly did some of you found a way to change the "coolant reservoir" ?

DONT RUN WITHOUT A THEMOSTAT!! It will run serious hot!
The bypass system has to be either operational or totally blocked off and the thermostat is part of it.
You have a second radiator yet?
the coolant resovir--i placed a Moroso tank there.
OD

1- I've got a hard time finding a website for my SC V-belt :( (help wanted)


4- finaly did some of you found a way to change the "coolant reservoir" ?

Summit Racing stocks the belt and you should get it in a couple of days just order off the computer.......

I assume you mean the s/c coolant tank, Denny came up with the Moroso tank and I adopted it- works great.

Hey Phil--your car is looking beter and better man. Sorry but I havent been able to get my hands on any auto motor mounts---if you find some send them to me and I will do them for
"special rate " will apply as I need a beta auto tester--just give me an objective write up is all:)
I am about to send out one set now for manual beta testing (other than my own car). There are more to mounts than I oridginally thought. But boy do they make a difference!
Stay tuned.
Man does my car like the Rick E engine + Cams kit with the larger pulley etc + this cooler weather. Driven a lot of cars and I know by my butt it is putting down more than 300! Have around 700 miles on it now so i can increase the rpm and load a little. Still havent gone full throttle or redlined yet. have taken it to 7K
OD

Hey Phil--your car is looking beter and better man. Sorry but I havent been able to get my hands on any auto motor mounts---if you find some send them to me and I will do them for
"special rate " will apply as I need a beta auto tester--just give me an objective write up is all:)
I am about to send out one set now for manual beta testing (other than my own car). There are more to mounts than I oridginally thought. But boy do they make a difference!
Stay tuned.
Man does my car like the Rick E engine + Cams kit with the larger pulley etc + this cooler weather. Driven a lot of cars and I know by my butt it is putting down more than 300! Have around 700 miles on it now so i can increase the rpm and load a little. Still havent gone full throttle or redlined yet. have taken it to 7K
OD

I checked with the yards here and they tell me all 8s go to Phoenix so there are none in the yards here. I've been keeping my eyes and ears open for a set of them.

i heard a rumor that no more kits will be built and there are 2 left. Compressor manufacture problems. x fingers. Seems they want Cam to buy 50 at the time. In this economy you would think they would sell what they could?
Hope this does not come true.
OD

Swedes :suspect:

If I had the money I'd order one tonight.

i heard a rumor that no more kits will be built and there are 2 left. Compressor manufacture problems. x fingers. Seems they want Cam to buy 50 at the time. In this economy you would think they would sell what they could?
Hope this does not come true.
OD
I hope that it's just a rumor and not fact............

They actually stopped making those compressors about 12 months ago. That is why I have moved on to something better :evil

Cheers,
Hymee.

did you guys change the fuel injector for bigger ones ?

I hope that it's just a rumor and not fact............


Got it straight from Cam, he says at this time he doesn't know what's going to happen, he's looking at alternatives, but there won't be any kits for a while, and the 09/10 kits are on indefinite hold.

The 2 he has left are already sold also.

this means what we have is a very limited run (world wide speaking) and we are very special :) hell always knew that anyway. Hope things work out and thanks DarkLord for letting us know.
OD

Well, DAMN!:wallbash:

Here I am with 2/3rds of the price saved up, and nothing left to buy. :tear:

Turbos are not the answer, I have no idea what Hymee's got up (down?) his sleeve, so where does that leave the FI wannabe?

Right now it's looking like shit outta luck.

Only one lysholm blower manufacturer exports to the US.

Some good samaritan with deep pockets needs to go to Sweden and bring a bunch back :yesnod:

Well, DAMN!:wallbash:

Here I am with 2/3rds of the price saved up, and nothing left to buy. :tear:

Turbos are not the answer, I have no idea what Hymee's got up (down?) his sleeve, so where does that leave the FI wannabe?


I contacted Hymee, they said their kit is ready basically, but not for 09s :(

It's also 9,900US$

olddragger: what are your thoughts on solid mounts?
I know there's a thread around here somewhere but figured I'd ask in here.

There's a Rotary shop near me in SoCal that has Solid mounts on a couple of 2nd Gen RX-7's and they swear by them. (engine, sway bar, and transmission mounts)

I contacted Hymee, they said their kit is ready basically, but not for 09s :(

It's also 9,900US$

Yeah - the exchange rate moves a bit. But it isn't quite at 99c yet!!!! Try about 91 as of this morning.

Cheers,
Hymee.

dont like solid mounts. vibration etc will be hard to take and sooner or later you are going to get cracks or breaks in SOMETHING.
Now I have been working on a polyurethane mount (like energy suspensions stuff) for us and I have been running different versions of it for the past 3-4 months. I think i have it down now and have one beta tester to recieve his next week and Phil is trying to find some auto mounts for me to do (they are harder to find!)
Our motor mounts are too soft--even for na cars on track. I think this may contribute to some of the trans problems people have?
All I do know is on my car --now when you press the gas there is now a real "snap" to it whereas before there wasnt. Yes there was a hard pull but the suddeness of it changed. Shifting gears is more direct and solid feeling.
Just a tad of vibration at idle when the car is cold that goes right away when the rpms are raised just a little.
I think i have figued out a way to run only one poly mount on the passenger side and a slightly modified oem mount on the drivers side. there is more to mounts than meets the eye but they are sure worth it.
olddragger

Yeah - the exchange rate moves a bit. But it isn't quite at 99c yet!!!! Try about 91 as of this morning.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Shipping is extra though right? Any ETA for 09s? :)

Have you guys done a dyno with 93 octane gas? I saw the one on the site is for 98octane (I think), is there much of a difference? Obviously E85 is a huge difference though.

dont like solid mounts. vibration etc will be hard to take and sooner or later you are going to get cracks or breaks in SOMETHING.
Now I have been working on a polyurethane mount (like energy suspensions stuff) for us and I have been running different versions of it for the past 3-4 months. I think i have it down now and have one beta tester to recieve his next week and Phil is trying to find some auto mounts for me to do (they are harder to find!)
Our motor mounts are too soft--even for na cars on track. I think this may contribute to some of the trans problems people have?
All I do know is on my car --now when you press the gas there is now a real "snap" to it whereas before there wasnt. Yes there was a hard pull but the suddeness of it changed. Shifting gears is more direct and solid feeling.
Just a tad of vibration at idle when the car is cold that goes right away when the rpms are raised just a little.
I think i have figued out a way to run only one poly mount on the passenger side and a slightly modified oem mount on the drivers side. there is more to mounts than meets the eye but they are sure worth it.
olddragger

How much to buy some off you? :p:

$9900 Holy F***,,,,,

He has a lot of beautiful cnc machined parts. Not that we dont.
Not selling the mounts yet- wait just a little while--wait for feedback from the tester.
OD

I know Ive seen the pics,,,, but still,,,

I think I'll be getting myself a hymee for xmas if they get it working for the 09s

One clever guy worked out how to get one for about $6500 USD ;-)

Cheers,
Hymee.

^^^ Blowing for a blower?

That was inappropriate :chomper:

One clever guy worked out how to get one for about $6500 USD ;-)

Cheers,
Hymee.

Aw now that's just teasing us :(

Have a look at the exchange rates over the last 12 months. My price hasn't changed!

Cheers,
Hymee.

Have a look at the exchange rates over the last 12 months. My price hasn't changed!

Cheers,
Hymee.


Good point.


Now about 09 compatibility... >.>

Which model Lysholm is/was being used in Cam's kit? I'm curious if a Whipple could be brought into the design without a tremendous amount of fuss. Same 5/3 screw rotor design as the Lysholm, I just don't know the particulars of either to make an educated guess.

Long live the S/C!

air is air--long as it fits.
I HAVE to work on the belt tension er--anyway at all that a 8 rib belt can be fitted? I want to lower the tension required now.
OD

air is air--long as it fits.
I HAVE to work on the belt tension er--anyway at all that a 8 rib belt can be fitted? I want to lower the tension required now.
OD

My thought:
Make a single multi-pulley with all the stock pulleys built-in, then you may have room.
I have looked into the BHR notched belt pulley for the Pettit blower, but it doesn't seem to be in production yet. (The BHR pulley kit does seem to have the Pettit "big" pulley ratio)

Hi guys!

I saw that you always talk abou ta "big" pulley.
Is pettit preparing a method to upgrade the S/C ?
what are the advantages and inconveniant of this pulley ?

thanks :)

air is air--long as it fits.
OD

Well, therein lies the tale. Air is air, but how much, where are the critical physical dimensions vs. the Lysholm, can the layshaft in the Pettit kit be used (if it *has* a layshaft, haven't really paid that much attention) and so on. I am not an engineer, I do the odd bit of tinkering, I can follow instructions to the dotted notation (quarter-century of USAF checklist procedures'll do that to a man :p: ), so if there is a chance in Hades it'll work, I volunteer the SYZ for testing a Whipple-based Pettit Stage II install. It'll be interesting, that's a given.

Financial setback of $1500 over the last ten days, emergency vet bills from our four-footed canine daughter of three years dying of blastomycosis :tear: , otherwise that might have been MY order for the last of the true Pettits.

Life sucks. The trick is to stay out of the venturi. :sweatdrop

Hi guys!

I saw that you always talk abou ta "big" pulley.
Is pettit preparing a method to upgrade the S/C ?
what are the advantages and inconveniant of this pulley ?

thanks :)

The good:
More boost

The bad:
There's a bad to 13 PSI? LOL
Larger secondary injectors are recommended, new flash is required.

huh,,, Cam sent me the pulley and injectors, didnt hear anything about a new flash, guess Ill have to make a call this week,,, :naughty:

no new flash required that I am aware off as long as approved ugraded injectors are used. ??.
I dont want to use a cog belt (BHR's) because of the noise it makes and the $900 price is too much for me(thats at his cost).
I think an 8 rib belt would do it--but if it can be done? Would need a new crank pulley , tensioner and sc nose pulley. Will a whipple pulley fit? Bunch of them available.
Can anyone speak with Cam? Where is Moon when you need him?
OD

I know Moon is pretty much fed up with the forum now-a-days, hes spending alot of time planning out and working on Project Street Ray, is there anything specific you would like me to talk to him about Im calling him tomorrow and Cam Mon or Tues,,,,

huh,,, Cam sent me the pulley and injectors, didnt hear anything about a new flash, guess Ill have to make a call this week,,, :naughty:

Maybe it's just me, I still suspect I have the "short bus" flash...
LOL

no new flash required that I am aware off as long as approved ugraded injectors are used. ??.
I dont want to use a cog belt (BHR's) because of the noise it makes and the $900 price is too much for me(thats at his cost).
I think an 8 rib belt would do it--but if it can be done? Would need a new crank pulley , tensioner and sc nose pulley. Will a whipple pulley fit? Bunch of them available.
Can anyone speak with Cam? Where is Moon when you need him?
OD

I think a single compound pulley for the crank could fit an 8 (or even 10) rib belt.
Basically, replace all the lower pulleys with one that has grooves for each belt, I think they could be closer if the edges of each pulley were machined into a single separator.

It would also be easier to install the bottom pulley, no bolt matching the multiple pulleys.

I would also like to see our blower turned 180 like the Hymee kit, but keep the water to air inter-cooler, I like the idea of a straight shot into the blower intake, the down side is the counter shaft to drive a pulley near the firewall.

Maybe it's just me, I still suspect I have the "short bus" flash...
LOL


I think a single compound pulley for the crank could fit an 8 (or even 10) rib belt.
Basically, replace all the lower pulleys with one that has grooves for each belt, I think they could be closer if the edges of each pulley were machined into a single separator.



the water pump and alternator belt is limited to, 6 or possible 7. you run too close to the aircon belt otherwise. you would need to move the compressor back about an inch.

to use the air con pulley you need to find another clutched aircon pulley the right diameter for the larger belt.

the water pump and alternator belt is limited to, 6 or possible 7. you run too close to the aircon belt otherwise. you would need to move the compressor back about an inch.

to use the air con pulley you need to find another clutched aircon pulley the right diameter for the larger belt.

Do we need a wider water pump and alternator belt?
I was thinking only about how to fit a wider blower belt.

Maybe it's just me, I still suspect I have the "short bus" flash...
LOL



Me too, Im still on the "conservative" flash as well,,,

huh,,, Cam sent me the pulley and injectors, didnt hear anything about a new flash, guess Ill have to make a call this week,,, :naughty:

the new injectors are how many cc ?

Wich one of the OEM injectors are replaced ?

thanks :wavey:

i heard a rumor that no more kits will be built and there are 2 left. Compressor manufacture problems. x fingers. Seems they want Cam to buy 50 at the time. In this economy you would think they would sell what they could?
Hope this does not come true.
OD

That would be tragic, especially since there may now be only one kit left:git:

thats my thoughts also--just the sc drive needs to be bigger--heck even a 7 rib would be better.
Ask Cam about this and what it would take--he may want to offer a kit--even though he says that a 5 rib will hold . I think that was the days before the larger crank pulley was offered?
I will also try to ask around.
OD

i heard a rumor that no more kits will be built and there are 2 left. Compressor manufacture problems. x fingers. Seems they want Cam to buy 50 at the time. In this economy you would think they would sell what they could?
Hope this does not come true.
OD

I thought it was always this way; he was teaming up with the Palm Beach Mercedes tuner to split a pallet of blowers.

/I could be wrong.

Do we need a wider water pump and alternator belt?
I was thinking only about how to fit a wider blower belt.

sorry rote8. I miss read you. I thought you were talking about modifying the lower pulley to step up one of the other drive belts.

if you just want another 3rd pulley integrated it is easy. if you can get me an offset to where your sc pulley sits in relation to the air-con drive and the diameter you need. I can send you a drawing for you to have one made. I was quoted $300 AUD to have one made and anodised.

I ended up getting a mate to turn one up for me. mine has a 6 rib drive like the SR motorsports wide grip belts.

if you can get me an offset to where your sc pulley sits in relation to the air-con drive and the diameter you need. I can send you a drawing for you to have one made.


The offset; I was thinking as little as possible, one thickness of about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. (that's why I want one pulley to run them all)
Diameter of the blower drive is 5 inches.
For a belt with 8 or 10 ribs. (I am wondering if the 10 rib will clear the power steering)

http://www.aspracing.com/817231s.jpg
this is what we need
or this
http://thehighspeedlab.com//Images/Product/superchargers/Eaton/ODPulleyKit.jpg
yea baby
OD

And perhaps a microscope!!

http://www.aspracing.com/817231s.jpg
this is what we need
or this
http://thehighspeedlab.com//Images/Product/superchargers/Eaton/ODPulleyKit.jpg
yea baby
OD


What ARE those?

ok this guy does beatiful work--seen his
http://www.reichardracing.com/
od

The daytime temperatures in Central Florida were in the 50-60 degrees. Wow what a difference it makes in hp. :eyetwitch

The daytime temperatures in Central Florida were in the 50-60 degrees. Wow what a difference it makes in hp. :eyetwitch
Any plans to re-dyno your car Juan? IIRC, you hit 9.6psi on the dyno when you made 330wp. Any idea of what she'll make at 11 or 12 psi?

OK !

I just discover that, because of the heat, my coolant tank (the engine one, not the S/C's) start to broke !!

I do not want to replace it with an OEM one ... where can I find something stronger which can respect the coolant configuration ?

thanks,

OK !

I just discover that, because of the heat, my coolant tank (the engine one, not the S/C's) start to broke !!

I do not want to replace it with an OEM one ... where can I find something stronger which can respect the coolant configuration ?

thanks,

I've tried several alternatives and was unable to ether fit into the only space I have left or had the capacity needed. I am making my own now.

The daytime temperatures in Central Florida were in the 50-60 degrees. Wow what a difference it makes in hp. :eyetwitch

Sounds like you need a trip to Delirium soon.....

:cool:

yep! it was 40F on the way to work this a.m. The car was a little frisky.

Ya mean we arent holding 11 lbs of boost? At what rpm was the 9.6?
Good to hear from ya Juan. How is it Bro?
You really need to upgrade your motor mounts to enjoy the snap the cold weather brings:)
OD

OK !

I just discover that, because of the heat, my coolant tank (the engine one, not the S/C's) start to broke !!

I do not want to replace it with an OEM one ... where can I find something stronger which can respect the coolant configuration ?

thanks,

Im sourcing this as well, my buddy came up with a pretty trick system hes using on his TC'd VR6 Jetta,,, I ll have an answer in a day or so,,,

hes also seen one car that used a very simular strut bar to the MS bar as a reservoir and just weld a flange with a fill cap on it,,, Its pretty custom but with it being in an area where its right in the middle of the heat that really doesnt seem ideal,,,

here ya go JMKuco and Denny, check this out the bungs were purchased through Summit, heres the build, his setup is one of the cleanest Ive ever seen,,,
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3158428&page=22
parts from Summit -
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-85282/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220062/
Im definately doing this with my coolant reservoir, tucking it wunder the cooling panel at the front of the engine bay the right up through it,,,,

thanks !!
how about a part like this one :
http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/Default.asp?id=5366
this S2000's on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/S2000-Polished-Aluminum-Coolant-Overflow-Tank-AP1-AP2_W0QQitemZ200368016193QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRace_C ar_Parts?hash=item2ea6dd4b41)
or maybe adapting a coolant catch tank (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-Blue-Universal-Coolant-Catch-Tank-Reservoir-Can-JDM_W0QQitemZ370276656519QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ2009 1018?IMSfp=TL091018139001r24138)

yup all good ideas just make sure the line is fed all the way to the bottom, most catch cans are near the top,,,,

Question from someone not in the know -- why are the engine coolant reservoirs cracking with the Pettit s/c kit?

Are coolant temps that much hotter? Or is it heat from the engine bay that's cracking the tanks? I almost wonder if a cheap fix with be a plastic overflow coolant tank from a car which runs forced induction from the factory? It might be designed to withstand hotter temps. Would a MS3 coolant tank be a direct fit I wonder?

Question from someone not in the know -- why are the engine coolant reservoirs cracking with the Pettit s/c kit?


Mine hasn't cracked, I am in Florida.
Daily driver in over 90 degree heat.


:smoker:

I dont think anyone's has cracked we are all just trying to keep pace with Denny,,,,

Hey Norm, talked to Cam last night, he says its better to be on the conservative tune with the bigger pulley,,,,

he also has some other stuff coming down the pipes but Im not sure that Im supposed to mention it,,,

lol--i just painted the oem tank black and it blended in so much better.
would like to have a better battery cover--i aint a gonna move it:)
Maybe a battery cover that includes covering the coolant tank?
OD

Mine hasn't cracked, I am in Florida.
Daily driver in over 90 degree heat.


:smoker:

Mine has cracked under the cap :SHOCKED:
so with pression, it always empty itself !:eek:

the water engine temps is always between 230F° & 212°F

I wan't wait to instal my vented hood !

Question from someone not in the know -- why are the engine coolant reservoirs cracking with the Pettit s/c kit?

My engine coolant tank became brittle and is chipping off at the neck it did not crack. I am making a new one from s/s to fit into the same area as the factory tank.

My charge tank (after cooler tank) did crack. I attribute it to a poor quality plastic. It also seemed a little small so when Denny came up with the new Moroso tank I jumped on board.

I personally have not tried a vented hood but others out here in the desert tell me it does not work as you would hope. I guess when the air temp is 117 degrees + and the humidity is 6% nothing will help.

I aggree Phil, when your in an environment like you are in all the air is hot, no matter wether your venting it or not,,,

yea I can only imagine about that type heat.
JDM dude--your coolant is always between 212 and 230?
Too hot--put secondary radiator on it.
OD

I wonder why you guys don't just put E85 in there since it burns cooler

My engine coolant tank became brittle and is chipping off at the neck it did not crack. I am making a new one from s/s to fit into the same area as the factory tank.

My charge tank (after cooler tank) did crack. I attribute it to a poor quality plastic. It also seemed a little small so when Denny came up with the new Moroso tank I jumped on board.

I personally have not tried a vented hood but others out here in the desert tell me it does not work as you would hope. I guess when the air temp is 117 degrees + and the humidity is 6% nothing will help.

You need a water nozzle to spray over the radiator.
:boink:

And a trailer hitch for the water tank to tow behind you....

Any plans to re-dyno your car Juan? IIRC, you hit 9.6psi on the dyno when you made 330wp. Any idea of what she'll make at 11 or 12 psi?

The 330 whp was with the bigger pulley (11/13) psi. The only difference from then and now are the injectors. I'm now running the 2009 injectors. I'm waiting for Jan or Feb to replicate the dyno (same location) and determine if the better spray pattern of the 2009 injectors did in fact increased my whp. :eyetwitch

yep! it was 40F on the way to work this a.m. The car was a little frisky.

Ya mean we arent holding 11 lbs of boost? At what rpm was the 9.6?
Good to hear from ya Juan. How is it Bro?
You really need to upgrade your motor mounts to enjoy the snap the cold weather brings:)
OD

I'm ok with the OEM mounts since I have an engine torque damper. :eyetwitch

You need a water nozzle to spray over the radiator.
:boink:

And a trailer hitch for the water tank to tow behind you....
Surprisingly the meth spray is helping keep the temps down. Summer has ended here and we are down to 90 degree days so I will have to wait until next year to see how much.

yea I can only imagine about that type heat.
JDM dude--your coolant is always between 212 and 230?
Too hot--put secondary radiator on it.
OD
I am getting a cooling mod from Cam at Pettit, it has some type of radiator with it. I tried a second radiator up front and it made things worse so I am hoping this Pettit cooling mod will help.

A secondary up front made it worse? I dont understand that Phil? Can you please give me some details on the install and set up? Such as:
1- Was the radiator feed from the hose going to the heater and then back to the return heater hose on the theromstat housing?
2-Was the heater hose restrictor removed?
3- was it mounted on the bumper support, flush with the back edge and touching with metal hangers (makes it act kinda like a heat sink)?
4- open fin type radiator?
5- theromstat drilled (have to keep SOME primary flow going) with bypass intact?
Sorry for all the questions--I am just really puzzled?
Cams set up is the same concept except his is mounted in the belly pan with a scoop.
Was the secondary heater actually making the car run hotter?

Temps have fallen in Ga--highs in the 70's and lows around 40 and I had to disconnect mine to get the temps past 150F in normal driving.
Maybe I am a crazy old man?
OD

yea I can only imagine about that type heat.
JDM dude--your coolant is always between 212 and 230?
Too hot--put secondary radiator on it.
OD

I ordered the pettit racing's :beer05:
in the caribbean island, humidity is near 75% ... so I hope the hood may help (at least a bit) !

see the pict of the engine coolant tank I ordered (Apexi)...I'll try to fix it somewhere else..can't wait to receive it !

A secondary up front made it worse? I dont understand that Phil? Can you please give me some details on the install and set up? Such as:
1- Was the radiator feed from the hose going to the heater and then back to the return heater hose on the theromstat housing? Yes
2-Was the heater hose restrictor removed? Was not aware the a/t has one
3- was it mounted on the bumper support, flush with the back edge and touching with metal hangers (makes it act kinda like a heat sink)? not mounted there. It did block part of stock rad and part of charge cooler because of location.
4- open fin type radiator? Yes
5- theromstat drilled (have to keep SOME primary flow going) with bypass intact? Theremostat was not drilled.
Sorry for all the questions--I am just really puzzled?
Cams set up is the same concept except his is mounted in the belly pan with a scoop.
Was the secondary heater actually making the car run hotter? Could not get hotter....... but got hotter sooner.
Temps have fallen in Ga--highs in the 70's and lows around 40 and I had to disconnect mine to get the temps past 150F in normal driving.
Maybe I am a crazy old man?
OD

I will look at Cam's set up and see if I can control it with a valve for winter as it does get cold here (in the low 60s). I would love to get it in 150 - 180 temp range and have it stay there. Your in the 40s already? Damm I thought Georgia was more temperate.

It is weird here in NC as well. Some days (like today) it will be 40 in the morning and heat up above 70 in the afternoon. It feels more like Iraq in the fall with the fluctuation in temperature.

On that note, I wish my car was running right now cause it sure would love these temps.

Phil
1- you have a heater hose restricter--has to be removed for proper flow--its a brass plug thing in the return heater hose--you dont need it and it REALLY slows down the coolant. I think by almost 50%
2- location is important--mounting as i did made sure that there is great airflow--the front bumper support also acts like a heat sink of sorts. It may cause the intercooler to run a little warmer but not much and the w/m controls a lot of that as it should with us. it will not affect the a/c or primary radiator (at least it didnt affect mine) as there is a LOT of air flowing around that area
3- the thermostat has to be drilled (i think i did a 1/16 hole?) to insure primary flow is occurring at all times. Several reasons for this. i will list what I think if you like.

Cams set up is basically the same as mine except his is in the bellypan with a scoop---so the restricter will still need to be removed and i strongly suggest drilling the T.
Keep us posted and let me know your results if you can?
Stay cool out there dude!
OD

you'll like how simple Cams layout is Phil, I just hope it works for ya, on a typical 80-90degree day I saw consistant temps 12-16 degrees cooler, averaging 175-185 degrees,,,
I talked to Cam about it actually working too well now that ambient temps have dropped, he suggested to just block the ram air scoop,,,
Just as a refresher hers what we're talking about,,,

http://i.imagehost.org/0363/CIMG1521.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0363/CIMG1521)

http://i.imagehost.org/0479/cooling_20solution6.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0479/cooling_20solution6)

Phil
1- you have a heater hose restricter--has to be removed for proper flow--its a brass plug thing in the return heater hose--you dont need it and it REALLY slows down the coolant. I think by almost 50%
OD

Hi !
What looks like this restricter ?
I think it is one of my many heating problems !!

Hi !
What looks like this restricter ?
I think it is one of my many heating problems !!

You know almost every hose and vacuum line in my 8 has been converted to silicone. I do not remember any restricter. I looked last night and can not see evidence of it (but I don't really know what it looks like). Can you get a pix of its location?

I run a lower temp thermostat (Mazmart) and have been cautioned against drilling it.

That Pettit cooling system looks good. I hope it does not hang down any lower that stock cuz I'm pretty low already. Cam shipped it Tuesday so maybe I'll see it tomorrow.

That Pettit cooling system looks good. I hope it does not hang down any lower that stock cuz I'm pretty low already. Cam shipped it Tuesday so maybe I'll see it tomorrow.

Nope, not at all,,,

jmk--its a brass plug in the return heater hose close to the thermostat housing--it is inside the hose.
Phile if you have replaced the hose with silicone then you are good to go.
thermostat needs drilling to stabilize warm up temps. a non thermostatically controlled seconary radiator will cause the warm up to be a little slower. while this is happening the engine is only getting coolant from the bypass and second rad. when the therm cracks the "cooler" coolant in the primary rad will hit the engine cause a rapid cooling until it balances out. drill the t fix this for me and I think it helps with having constant temps after ther theromstat starts opening.
OD

thanks, I'll check !
but as I change many of the hose, maybe I already delete this problem !

rotr8--i bet you didnt drill your thermostat either?---80F I am at 160-170 on open road. stop and go i am 170 or so.
I think the car runs better at 180-190 and I may soon have to bypass my 2nd. Blocking the through airflow didnt work for me.
I am thinking about replacing my sensor to a different spot. Currently I have the RB adaptor thingy. I run my heater hose (outlet from the engine is on the drivers side) UNDER my car--not on top like oem---and I may be getting a cooling affect from the air flowing pass that long hose? I may mount it close to the factory one----thoughts?
OD

The ideal operating temps are 180-190, and no havent drilled the thermostat,
the temps I stated before are an average of sitting, slow city driving and highway, averaged from logging,,,

ok thanks.
I have too many projects---sigh
going to increase oil pressures?
get the fram hp2 oil filter
coil overs
reinstall oil pressure gauge--damn!
going to have to get an ash tray pod for more dang gauges
trying to think of a better belt tension piece--think we have potential for more belt wrap and may not need a larger belt?
OD

Just a thought... could it be that the brass plug restricting the return flow is there to actually aid in cooling the system?

The positive pressure ensures that every nook gets the water/coolant. Also, pressurized water has a higher boiling pint.

Keep an eye on the temps as you experiment with this, as increased flow at the cost of a lower system pressure may or may not yield the results you're after.



jmk--its a brass plug in the return heater hose close to the thermostat housing--it is inside the hose.
Phile if you have replaced the hose with silicone then you are good to go.
thermostat needs drilling to stabilize warm up temps. a non thermostatically controlled seconary radiator will cause the warm up to be a little slower. while this is happening the engine is only getting coolant from the bypass and second rad. when the therm cracks the "cooler" coolant in the primary rad will hit the engine cause a rapid cooling until it balances out. drill the t fix this for me and I think it helps with having constant temps after ther theromstat starts opening.
OD

Dude--we are talking about the restrictor in the heating hose--that coolant is never ever routed to the radiator and it doesnt have anything to do with pressure in the engine---its purpose is to hold coolant in the heater core a little longer and to cut down on the noses fast flowing coolant can may inside the cabin---thats all.
Coolant pressure is handled by the radiator cap.
OD

Dude--we are talking about the restrictor in the heating hose--that coolant is never ever routed to the radiator and it doesnt have anything to do with pressure in the engine---its purpose is to hold coolant in the heater core a little longer and to cut down on the noses fast flowing coolant can may inside the cabin---thats all.
Coolant pressure is handled by the radiator cap.
OD

Got it. I wasn't 100% clear on where this restriction was as described, and thought it was inline in the system. It's great to see such a wealth of info for the rest of us researching this mod.

just took my oil filter apart it was a fram ph type(time for an oil change after break in of 1000miles)
and I am impressed with the filter and the filter mag.
The filter mag did just what it was suppose too---pattern of particles on the inside of the filter can just like the pictures show--and its grit feeling.
The bypass valve is at the top of the filter with an anti drain back feature--all metal, filter material and silicone
The outside of the filter material was dirty--inside clean.
Looks good.
OD

just took my oil filter apart it was a fram ph type(time for an oil change after break in of 1000miles)
and I am impressed with the filter and the filter mag.
The filter mag did just what it was suppose too---pattern of particles on the inside of the filter can just like the pictures show--and its grit feeling.
The bypass valve is at the top of the filter with an anti drain back feature--all metal, filter material and silicone
The outside of the filter material was dirty--inside clean.
Looks good.
OD

So you are a "hacker"?
:lol:

Nice find, Fram has improved.

man cave has to have a dremel available at all times!
OD

man cave has to have a dremel available at all times!
OD

+1 on that, a dremel is like having a go-go-gadget hand for me,,,

man cave has to have a dremel available at all times!
OD

I have the cordless.....

the cordless suck ass, I went through two of them in 3 months, and the docking stations are pretty much worthless,

i even clip the dogs nails with it!

I just ordered the 2nd pettit intercooler kit :) !
my question : do I plug it with the S/C intercooler or with the engine radiator ?

What temperature is the fluid in your intercooler now?? I was under the impression it was the engine radiator water that was overheating. Cam does sell a cooling system that goes to the engine:

ok !
that's the one I ordered !

I asked just to be sure I did understand well...

you'll like how simple Cams layout is Phil, I just hope it works for ya, on a typical 80-90degree day I saw consistant temps 12-16 degrees cooler, averaging 175-185 degrees,,,
I talked to Cam about it actually working too well now that ambient temps have dropped, he suggested to just block the ram air scoop,,,
Just as a refresher hers what we're talking about,,,

http://i.imagehost.org/0363/CIMG1521.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0363/CIMG1521)

http://i.imagehost.org/0479/cooling_20solution6.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0479/cooling_20solution6)

Mine is still in the box.....I'm going to install it this weekend if time permits. We suddenly got a cold storm moving thru Vegas. Unusual for this time of year.

Anyone have any pictures of Cam's upgraded bypass/blowoff valve? Installed would be nice too.
Thanks

Anyone have any pictures of Cam's upgraded bypass/blowoff valve? Installed would be nice too.
Thanks

NOt yet...but I just ordered it :D (thank you exchange rate :rofl:)

I can take pics of it later today when I get home from work,,,

I can take pics of it later today when I get home from work,,,

That would be sweet. Thanks

Dont know how well the pics will turn out everything is black, but we'll see...

http://i.imagehost.org/0763/sc-eb4a.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0763/sc-eb4a)

http://i.imagehost.org/0188/CIMG2457.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0188/CIMG2457)

http://i.imagehost.org/0558/CIMG2460.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0558/CIMG2460)

http://i.imagehost.org/0112/CIMG2456.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0112/CIMG2456)

Awesome thanks. One more question. Where does the hose from the small nipple in the valve connect to?

Vacuum...

Thanks, somehow the hose came off and I couldn't find it. Installed the new bypass valve and wow what a difference. The plastic one completely crapped out. The piston inside it pretty much actuated due to gravity alone. Completely different car :)
Thanks again rotr8.

Vacuum...

Vacuum/Boost, not "Vacuum"
It is a vacuum line that goes on the "boosted" side.

FTFY....

:dunno:

finally gotten a boost gage and oil pressure gage + RB's ashtray mount plate--too lazy to make my own. I have been running the turbo x valve for some time and it seems fine, but i have heard that it leaks. When I get my gauges install (too many damn gauges--now I have 6 to watch lol) I guess I will be able to tell.
Yall are reading the tech section thread on oil pressures? You should.
OD

Hey all, went for a Sunday drive today with some friends,,, lots of fun keeping up with the 4wd-ers on some slick wooded roads, anyway, hit an all time airflow high for my 8psi pulley,,, 353.5g/s, in all things second gear, was making hard pulls all day long, and on this run wasnt able to keep the rpms going due to pulling off the throttle with the STI braking alittle early in front of me,,,, AWESOME!!! Car is running better than ever, Moon and I worked all day yesterday swapping out my blown sc pulley seal, and took the new pulley spacer into work and had it machined out of Stainless Steel(comes Aluminum from Pettit) dont know if that made any difference but man was it fun today,,, Ill post pics of the old one soon, had a huge gash in it due to the spring in the seal, almost looked like it was machined that way...

http://i.imagehost.org/0534/CIMG2467.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0534/CIMG2467)

http://i.imagehost.org/0632/CIMG2471.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0632/CIMG2471)

http://i.imagehost.org/0581/353gs.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0581/353gs)

that looks like a fun group to run with man--wish i had been there.
post some pics and symptoms your were having
OD

Well the symptoms would be gear oil all over the engine,, bracket, pretty much anything under the sc pulley,,,
Heres the damage,,, The two shown are the new one Cam sent me and the old one pulled off the kit, both Aluminum, didnt get a chance to snap a pic of the stainless, its already in,,,
Yeah that big ole groove isnt supposed to be there,,, also notice the chaffing of the inner fillet and also since this caused the spacer to slide, there is an inner groove that was starting where the spacer mount is,,,
I would highly recommend getting this spacer machined out of a stronger material if you are able, just as a precaution,,,

http://i.imagehost.org/0554/CIMG2473.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0554/CIMG2473)

http://i.imagehost.org/0109/CIMG2474.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0109/CIMG2474)

http://i.imagehost.org/0665/CIMG2475.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0665/CIMG2475)

http://i.imagehost.org/0307/CIMG2476.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0307/CIMG2476)

That`s an awfully neat groove for a wear mark...

Sure it wasn`t machined in there .....

yes, its worn from the spring thats in the seal,,,

Absolutely not supposed to be there,,, its only so tidey because there's really no where else for the assembly to go,,,

That would do it :) Spring steel cutting tool :)

yep, = huge mess, lets just say I was filling the blower wtih gear oil about every 4 days for about a month,,,

Hey all, went for a Sunday drive today with some friends,,, lots of fun keeping up with the 4wd-ers on some slick wooded roads, anyway, hit an all time airflow high for my 8psi pulley,,, 353.5g/s, in all things second gear, was making hard pulls all day long, and on this run wasnt able to keep the rpms going due to pulling off the throttle with the STI braking alittle early in front of me,,,, AWESOME!!! ]

Those NA guys don't know what they are missing ;)

you said it brother,,,

So much fun,,,
And when there were two lanes to drive we would split into two parades, after reaching our last pit stop for icecream the one STI owner got out, and was totally mezmerized by the sound,,, said to me " that is just evil"....

you'll like how simple Cams layout is Phil, I just hope it works for ya, on a typical 80-90degree day I saw consistant temps 12-16 degrees cooler, averaging 175-185 degrees,,,
I talked to Cam about it actually working too well now that ambient temps have dropped, he suggested to just block the ram air scoop,,,
Just as a refresher hers what we're talking about,,,

http://i.imagehost.org/0363/CIMG1521.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0363/CIMG1521)

http://i.imagehost.org/0479/cooling_20solution6.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0479/cooling_20solution6)

Guys sorry to butt in but does anyone have an additional pics or info on this oil cooler setup? Thanks.

Yeah sure what do you want to know besides that point that its a secondary Radiator setup..

Its from Pettit, and both FI and NA guys have been putting them on,,,

Is it one cooler in there or two? I'd like to see a front angle shot. Seems like teh weight would cause it to sag? Looks great.

Its two, and there is no sag at all, I can take some pics tomorrow and post them,,, the two are in series, flow goes into the far(drivers side) then flows for a second cooling into the passenger side then back up into the lower rad hose feed,,,

Sweet thanks a lot. Do you have anything supporting it from the top? Did you create this or Pettit? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks.

Nope this whole setup is Pettits design and build, nothing supporting it but all the hardware is tied into the stiffest area of the undertray the area right next to the corners of the sidewalls. I consistantly see a lower water temp of 12-15 degrees...

Sweet, do they sell this as a kit?

yes, you can call Pettit, and order it,

,,,,,, the two are in series, flow goes into the far(drivers side) then flows for a second cooling into the passenger side then back up into the lower rad hose feed,,,

Looks parallel to me in the pic and in the in the graphic earlier in this thread.

ooops your right Ray,,,

Seems to me for optimum cooling they would run it in series. Not parallel.
So why didn't they do that?
Or just make one radiator instead of two?

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147571&d=1256749897

There is more heat transferred when the gradient is larger between the 2 temps....so the 2 "hot" ones would cool more than one hot and one cooler.....

how did your dude log a 353? I thought MAF sensor was capped at 350?

cant remember who said it, I think Rote8, but isn't the cieling for the dude 365?

hi !

some other picts of the pettit cool pack :)

cool pack is cool.
Thanks for the w/u on that spacer---good to know. Wonder what caused that to happen?
Time to buy a case of blue rags and orange cleaning stuff?
Cars are looking really good.
May be getting time to do some cosmetics on mine--the sleeper look is getting old.
STarting to instruct on Track now--my 1st student will be this w/e. May God have Mercy:)
OD

cant remember who said it, I think Rote8, but isn't the cieling for the dude 365?


The ECU reads above 350 as ...350. (This means for the fuel injection, no extra gas after 350 MAF)

I have hit 378 before by injecting 375ml straight methanol (no water mixed) with 40% nitromethane. The intake had ice on it.

cool pack is cool.
Thanks for the w/u on that spacer---good to know. Wonder what caused that to happen?
Time to buy a case of blue rags and orange cleaning stuff?
Cars are looking really good.
May be getting time to do some cosmetics on mine--the sleeper look is getting old.
STarting to instruct on Track now--my 1st student will be this w/e. May God have Mercy:)
OD

Awesome Denny, good luck,

cant remember who said it, I think Rote8, but isn't the cieling for the dude 365?

365 and 4.69v is the cieling for the stock map - but the map can be modified to the limit of maf voltage which is 5v and over 400g/s

Ahhh - the ol' "oil-seal groove in the aluminium problem". Yep - ticked that one off previously ;) Now I remember why it takes a while to do these projects!!

Cheers,
Hymee.

ooops your right Ray,,,

Thx, Greg. That is the same manner in which Pettit routes the intercoolers, as well.

The reason they do it this way is because, with only 5/8" inlets/outlets on the coolers, there would not be enough fluid volume to shed the heat quick enough in series. Kinda what dannobre mentioned. I am glad to see that people are happy with this set up.

That cool pack is great. Thanks for the pics. Gotta shoot them an email.

yeah I was sent the prototype, pretty much the commissioned pieced to get the assembly line rolling on it and it didnt fit at all, the coolers were in the wrong place, the ram air scoops were too tall, no lines with it, Lines crossed, and no tie into the thermostat, after a few weeks of Moon and I fiddling with it had to send it back to Cam and it happened that Cams helper hadnt followed any of Cams guidance when he went to assemble them. Cam wasnt too happy about it either, that something like that left his shop, It was after that one that all the others were corrected and made for production,,,,
And the correct design was sent a few days later,,,

That cool pack is great. Thanks for the pics. Gotta shoot them an email.

Email is not advised, theyve had horrible IT support and its never really worked out efficiently, it would be better to just call them, Cams one of the easiest people to talk to,,,

Cool, thanks.

BTW, that build threads site is sweet.

I know its my favorite site of all time now,,, So many badass motivated individuals, I just want a junker to build up now,,, so little time in the day,,, ,

how does Cam tying into the thermostat? Isnt he using the heater hose to supply the system?
OD

He's not, I had asked him to see if he could(it was talked about) when he was designing it, it wasnt in the end, but rather tied into the heater line like you said,,,,

oh ok--just wnated to be sure i wasnt mission something:)
D

oh ok--just wnated to be sure i wasnt mission something:)
D

You really just wanted to be sure you weren't missing out on some mission-ary position... :-p

Cheers Hymlick.

haha--too old for that--i am now a "cowgirl" man--while I drink my beer.
OD

hahahahahh

cool pack is cool.
Thanks for the w/u on that spacer---good to know. Wonder what caused that to happen?
Time to buy a case of blue rags and orange cleaning stuff?
Cars are looking really good.
May be getting time to do some cosmetics on mine--the sleeper look is getting old.
STarting to instruct on Track now--my 1st student will be this w/e. May God have Mercy:)
OD

omg,,

i wonder who it is going to be? :):lol:

beers :beer:

some poor soul that doesnt know anybetter.
OD

some poor soul that doesnt know anybetter.
OD

Swoope and OD on the track together?

oh boy...:moon:

on track together is not an issue. there have been problems when we are in the same car together! :)

beers :beer:

"that isn't the gear stick!" ?? :)

Scott is cool---and he has worked harder to attend our little Ga events than anyone I know.
I will not ever forget him in shorts at the Mazmart meeting and the temps were, shall we say a little cool. Dang crazy Florida folks.
Yep when in the car together it is too cool, we have too much fun. No sticks involved. That is unless we are at the local Hooters! In that case the brainwave patterns change a little.
OD

has anyone looked at the kenne bell boost a spark system to use with the LS2 coils? It would supply 16volts (adjustable) to them bringing down the dwell time needed. I am not an expert but changing the dwell times in the pcm is something i rather not do? Seems to complicated to me as the more people try to explain the more confused I get?
OD

OD, have you downloaded the race software from Cobb and looked around in there? There is absolutely nothing in there that is as difficult as you - or maybe it's others here? - make it out to be. It's just a simple table view like you would be doing in high school math classes. All the extra dongles and such are becoming pretty dated and a hassle.

good idea--i will look at that. OD

good idea--i will look at that. OD

There is no need to do that, you are already a Pettit owner, so you have a "Dude" Flash. Cam is using My stuff now, which has some dude heritage in it, so you are already part of the "family". Have a look on my site for sCANalyser Pro Tuner.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Looks like I hit the MAF ceiling of my logger,,,, 365.21g/s

http://a.imagehost.org/0647/365gs.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0647/365gs)

and from a couple mins earlier,,,

http://i.imagehost.org/0120/365gsand_beyond.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0120/365gsand_beyond)

It's not the ceiling of the logger, it is the maximum that was read. It auto-scales. The maximum the MAF can read is a function of the MAF Calibration table in the tune-up. This is a 2D table the provides a grams/per second lookup function, based on the voltage of the MAF sensor. If you re-size your MAF, you can use this to re-calibrate it.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Special offer for Pettit owners to upgrade to Pro Tuner - Contact me.

Special offer for Dude Logger owners to upgrade to Pro Tuner - Contact me.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Special offer for Pettit owners to upgrade to Pro Tuner - Contact me.

Special offer for Dude Logger owners to upgrade to Pro Tuner - Contact me.

Cheers,
Hymee.

So if we are Pettit Owner + Dude Logger Owner; we have double special offer :lol2:

What do you mean by "to upgrade to Pro tuner" ?

thanks

go to his website and read about it,,,
I pm'd Mark last night and am awaiting the answer about the discount,,,

hey sorry to go off subject for a sec but i was wondering if you guys know if it is possible to change the AC belt without removing the supercharger? i was just wondering b4 i go head strong into it. haha

hey sorry to go off subject for a sec but i was wondering if you guys know if it is possible to change the AC belt without removing the supercharger? i was just wondering b4 i go head strong into it. haha

I have an 8 owner so close to me with a S/C and didn't know it?!

hey sorry to go off subject for a sec but i was wondering if you guys know if it is possible to change the AC belt without removing the supercharger? i was just wondering b4 i go head strong into it. haha

The blower belt has to go, but after that, it's just painful to loosen the A/C tension bolt.

Two ways to do it:
Box end wrench and lots of time. (turn bolt, flip wrench, repeat)
Or:
Remove S/C belt and belt idler pulley.
Remove top S/C pulley.
Remove 6 bolts holding the front mount to the S/C.
Remove S/C front mount.
You can get to the A/C tension bolt easy now.

I have thought of trying a "Crow foot wrench" but never tried, I think it's possible.

thats pretty much how i thought it would be. it is going to be a pain either way from what i can tell haha. Also, michaelsk8er yeah i live right in W'boro! do you have a supercharger aswell?

Oh i got another question anyone know how to remove a check engine light error code? the one i got is P0410 (which is Secondary air injection system) i have know way to fix it and i want to just clear the error from my car all together. i do have the EFI dude logger and was wondering if that can do it.

Just back from track w/e in Roebling Road in Savannah ga. Beautiful w/e--so many different kinds of cars--the usual Porsche's AMG (Kreeman black addition) Mercedes--it was WICKED!, stangs, supercharged S2's, miata's, old stock nascar car, sweet Porsche 928 that was preparded!, Some GT3's--and about 10 RX8's and an adopted beautiful 09 G37..Total 140 cars.
Track supper was home cooked chicken catchatore, and some other sausage mixture with onions peppers, wine , beer, cheese cake, salad, with red checkered table cloths with flowers on the table --all the while listening to the Allmans Brother SISTER playing the guiter--she does have a nice setup and her brothers taught her well.
After the meals and cigars one of the teams set up a projector hooked to their laptop and made a screen out of the side of their transport trailer. Started showing track vids---Sweet!!
Track was pretty good too--student was great --had a sweet 40th anniversary edition and he progressed well--his smile got a little bigger each time.
One of our members lost a clutch but other than that--all went well. I did not track mine.
Wish yall could have been there--we will be back in May 2010!? Ya'll come!

Hymlee --thanks i wasnt aware of that--oh by the way i gave your name as one of "experts" to a recent new owner of a RX--he happens to be a real rocket scientist with NASA--we got cool stickers! He is interested in the rotor flame propagation--:)
OD

Sounds fun, Denny, plan on me being there in May,,,

^You'll have a great time. Althought I did like the temps being in the 70s this time instead of May when they were in the upper 90's. That's a bit hot for street tires!

I wont have street tires on the track,,,


I know what you mean though(temps), Denny invited me but it was too short of a notice and I was pretty busy this weekend anyway

I promise it will be a w/e to remember dude---promise
Hey Top Gear----rested yet?
Man I am trying to remember what all happened.......so much fun.
OD

You guys aren't gonna believe this. After all the crap I went through with my first RX8 burning to the ground, I get home last night, late, and some guy has broken into my garage and is stripping parts off my new one and was poking around the boxes that my new supercharger was packed in. WTF??? I can't believe my luck. I held the bastard at gunpoint until the cops came and hauled his ass away. He had a funny name, too, like "Moon" or something like that - I think he was on meth :yelrotflm

Anybody want to buy a camo green Isuzu VehiCross?

hhahaahah @ RIWWP,,,

hey Wes, I have some photo evidence if you ever need any in the investigation, hahhahaha...

Here are some questions about RX-8 superchanged
1. I am in Japan. Is it feasible to equip the Japanese RX-8 with superchanged?
2. After equipped the superchanged, will it take some not good effection to the car?

Here are some questions about RX-8 superchanged
1. I am in Japan. Is it feasible to equip the Japanese RX-8 with superchanged?
2. After equipped the superchanged, will it take some not good effection to the car?

Question one: Maybe - depends on tuning and other mods on your 8

Question two: ? (not sure what your asking)

thats pretty much how i thought it would be. it is going to be a pain either way from what i can tell haha. Also, michaelsk8er yeah i live right in W'boro! do you have a supercharger aswell?

No I don't. I was interested in getting one eventually. I am torn between S/C or turbo but for the moment staying NA for warranty. I'd love to hear your S/C and maybe go for a ride in a S/C 8 o.O

I'm sure the Central Virginia Mazda Club would love to see a S/C 8 amidst them as well.

Question one: Maybe - depends on tuning and other mods on your 8

Question two: ? (not sure what your asking)
I am so sorry,I am not good in English.
The second question is
Will it bring any damage to my RX8?
And will it be easy to install it by myself?
Thank you so much.

I am so sorry,I am not good in English.
The second question is
Will it bring any damage to my RX8?
And will it be easy to install it by myself?
Thank you so much.

Your english is one hell of a lot better than my Japanese (non existent).

Any FI application can damage a vehicle, depending on how it is driven, how it is cared for, and how much boost you use additional stress will be put on the engine. If you take care of the vehicle, the useful life should be a long time.

I do not know your expertise as to mechanics but with general knowledge you can install one with a little help. Tuning is another matter.

Your english is one hell of a lot better than my Japanese (non existent).

Any FI application can damage a vehicle, depending on how it is driven, how it is cared for, and how much boost you use additional stress will be put on the engine. If you take care of the vehicle, the useful life should be a long time.

I do not know your expertise as to mechanics but with general knowledge you can install one with a little help. Tuning is another matter.
Thanks for your answer.
In where can I buy the Pettit Super Charger at a cheaper price?

You guys aren't gonna believe this. After all the crap I went through with my first RX8 burning to the ground, I get home last night, late, and some guy has broken into my garage and is stripping parts off my new one and was poking around the boxes that my new supercharger was packed in. WTF??? I can't believe my luck. I held the bastard at gunpoint until the cops came and hauled his ass away. He had a funny name, too, like "Moon" or something like that - I think he was on meth :yelrotflm

Anybody want to buy a camo green Isuzu VehiCross?

Excellent use of the Second Amendment, Wes. Use it as much as you can before we lose it.

Thanks for your answer.
In where can I buy the Pettit Super Charger at a cheaper price?

Nope - unless you can find a used one and that does not happen too often. Once we have it we love it and don't wish to part with it

Yea I haven't ever seen a S/C for sale on here. Seems like S/C owners are very happy with their system and their 8. Turbo owners seem to always sell their kits and revert to stock before selling the car. Guess that tells you something, though not sure what that is.

Thanks for your answer.
In where can I buy the Pettit Super Charger at a cheaper price?

I only know of two that sold. I suspect that a third one did but have not been able to confirm it. I finally located the one that sold (by Pettit) to an owner in San Diego.....he now lives in L.A and is having his engine rebuilt at a shop in L.A. (engine loss due to other causes not the s/c).

Several owner have disappeared from the forums so any of them could have sold the vehicles complete with the s/c. If they sold them separately I'm sure we would have heard.

Brice had one for sale a couple months ago and I think it sold within a week,,,,

Did you ever get a chance to work on that map you were building Phil???

Did you ever get a chance to work on that map you were building Phil???

I have to admit defeat - my attempt is on the first page and it's terrible (does not work correctly). I have no computer skills.

If I remember correctly, Brice sold that S/C in the first two days at a top dollar price. Not demeaning just showing the Pettit s/c seems to hold it's value.

well FINALLY got a boost /vacuum gauge installed.
I am getting 9lbs boost at 3K (i think- things happening so damn fast i cant look at it long)
is that what everyone else is kind of getting?
My source is the lower intake manifold.
OD

well FINALLY got a boost /vacuum gauge installed.
I am getting 9lbs boost at 3K (i think- things happening so damn fast i cant look at it long)
is that what everyone else is kind of getting?
My source is the lower intake manifold.
OD

I am getting 12 to 14 PSI at anything over 3K if I go full throttle.


Yeah, things happen VERY fast!
:SHOCKED:

Excellent use of the Second Amendment, Wes. Use it as much as you can before we lose it.

Charles, I don't plan on being around if we lose it.

Now, anyone want to buy this dude's car before he makes bail??

I only know of two that sold. I suspect that a third one did but have not been able to confirm it. I finally located the one that sold (by Pettit) to an owner in San Diego.....he now lives in L.A and is having his engine rebuilt at a shop in L.A. (engine loss due to other causes not the s/c).

Several owner have disappeared from the forums so any of them could have sold the vehicles complete with the s/c. If they sold them separately I'm sure we would have heard.


When my first car burned, the insurance co. sold it to an auction/salvage yard, and I can't trace it down anywhere. The blower was still on it, but is going to need some tender loving refurbishing.

Monchichi, trying to find a cheaper Pettit blower is a waste of time. These systems take a load of R&D, are made from expensive parts by hand and/or by expensive CNC machinery, add on bits like intercoolers and oil fill relocation kits, custom brackets, and consequently they cost a lot. Even a small axial supercharger can cost $3500, and that doesnt even include installation, remapping/retuning, pizza and beer. Add to this the fact that there is scuttlebutt that Pettit Superchargers may be hard to come by in the future because of difficulty in sourcing the superchargers themselves from Lysholm. My advice is if you want one, take out a loan and buy it now; the dollar is working in your favor.

so when i take it to a full load i should see 12-14 lbs? It doesnt hold that does it?
And if 9 is the max then probably i have a bad blow off valve if there are no leaks.?
OD

Charles, I don't plan on being around if we lose it.

Now, anyone want to buy this dude's car before he makes bail??

To late, I got it back when you were looking the other way.

Well Wess, sorry again I had to cut the instal short. As you can see in the picture my dog went off his rocker, I think he was a beaver in his past life. Its not a completed instal yet but after 3 days and a little bit of changing the way I put his kit together. Keep in mind that the picture was taken 5 or 6 hours before I finished the harness. Notice the coils.

A few people now that I changed the design of the I/C to be lower profile and changed the angle of intake to hopfully be able to use the stock airbox.

Looks good, all put together,,,,

Looks good, all put together,,,,

thanks to you

Now for the Stealth treatment, paint that shit black,,,

Now for the Stealth treatment, paint that shit black,,,


Agreed.

I am getting 12 to 14 PSI at anything over 3K if I go full throttle.


Yeah, things happen VERY fast!
:SHOCKED:

awesome - that must be pulling turbo equalling torque if you can do that - would like to see a dyno !!!!

A few people now that I changed the design of the I/C to be lower profile and changed the angle of intake to hopfully be able to use the stock airbox.


Hey Moon - what exactly is that holding up the blower in the side view? The labeling on the bottle is a little fuzzy if I blow it up, but I'm pretty sure it says "Viagra"...:rofl:

Hey Moon - what exactly is that holding up the blower in the side view? The labeling on the bottle is a little fuzzy if I blow it up, but I'm pretty sure it says "Viagra"...:rofl:

The bottle and blower have the same effect.
:ylsuper:

When my first car burned, the insurance co. sold it to an auction/salvage yard, and I can't trace it down anywhere. The blower was still on it, but is going to need some tender loving refurbishing.

Dam, I thought you salvaged it......Now there is the possibility of another blower out there.

Moon: I am wondering if the dog or one of those items in the boxes next to the door did the damage:scratchhe.

sweet---using the oem or RB's airbox ---or a custom "Moon" airbox will address a issue that is always part of a s.c. but so far I havent heard anyone speak off.
That is --S.C. temps-----yes i know we have spoken a little on radiant heat and shielding --but I am speaking of the intake air with the under the hood airfilter. And I am speaking of the idleing in hot weather and bumper to bumper traffic in which the s.c. is still pumping (it always pumps) and the intake air is 150+F due to high underhood temps.
Getting a true cold air on this system is a great idea (some of you have done custom jobs already) and keeping the same lenght maf pipe is a great.
I did a mutilation job on the RB box one time but then I had to go with a bigger airfilter and that made it not fit anymore.
Good job.

BY THE WAY I NEVER GET OVER 10LBS BOOST----I HAVE THE BIGGER PULLEY----WHY?????
IT DOES HOLD IT.
olddragger

Have you tried reseting your Fuel trims,,,

I've got an SC instrumentation question.

If you have say the Racing Beat Gauge Pod with Oil Temp & Pressure and Coolant Temp, and you add a Lotek dash 3-gauge pod for AFR Wideband O2 Lambda and Boost/Vac %, what 3rd (6th overall) gauge would you add?

intake charge temperture----sensor mounted in the pettir upper im or the lim.
This is needed.
OD

BY THE WAY I NEVER GET OVER 10LBS BOOST----I HAVE THE BIGGER PULLEY----WHY?????
IT DOES HOLD IT.
olddragger

Have you a way to data-log the MAF sensor readings? Take a look at that curve.

Thanks for the confirmation OD (ICT was in the back of my mind).

intake charge temperture----sensor mounted in the pettir upper im or the lim.
This is needed.
OD

BY THE WAY I NEVER GET OVER 10LBS BOOST----I HAVE THE BIGGER PULLEY----WHY?????
IT DOES HOLD IT.
olddragger

1. Check belt tension.

2. Check the S/C top pulley bolt torque. (Impact wrench?)

3. Check S/C top pulley "spacer" for correct orientation, they only work one way! (mine was backwards after f'ing with it to insulate everything.)

I am not sure mine will "hold" 12 to 14 permanently, as I have no room (or bollos) to find out!
At some point, my foot lifts.

At 3 K rpm, if I floor it, (instant 10PSI) I hit 12 about 4K and hold till 8K. (I think)

Also, make sure all hose connections are pressure tight, not just vacuum tight, I use rubber cement and a tie wrap on vacuum line ends.

PS: I have watched "vacuum" lines swell loose on the dyno.

Hey Moon - what exactly is that holding up the blower in the side view? The labeling on the bottle is a little fuzzy if I blow it up, but I'm pretty sure it says "Viagra"...:rofl:

Ha ha, funny. Its meds for my dog, antibiotics I think.

good ideas Ray And Rote8.
I have a mechanical vac/boost gauge taking reading from the two vacuum lim ports (pigtailed 2 to 1---i dont hear any leaks and dont see any evidence of any leaks (red boost juice is good for that.)?
SC pulley is tight--best I can tell and test--have electric impact gun?
no belt slippage at this time---boost is steady and I dont hear anything?
All connections are zip tied.?
I no longer have w/m nozzle pre s.c. --took it off for the winter and no track season. I just run one nozzle post blower now.

I will check maf readings tonight---thanks Ray --didnt think of that.

I wonder if my lim work reduced boost somehow--but i dont see how that would be?
It was just cleaning up the runners a little and removed the jet air(its sealed well)?

This past w/e I saw a 8 with a Mazsports turbo set up. It was sweet. I didnt know that Scott removed the apv motor and left the apvs open all the time? I do remember when I had the interceptor (before cams flash) that Scott sold me and had a basic tune with it--the car had more "kick ass" feel to it. Cams is much more driveable.
OD

good ideas Ray And Rote8.
I have a mechanical vac/boost gauge taking reading from the two vacuum lim ports (pigtailed 2 to 1---i dont hear any leaks and dont see any evidence of any leaks (red boost juice is good for that.)?
SC pulley is tight--best I can tell and test--have electric impact gun?
no belt slippage at this time---boost is steady and I dont hear anything?
All connections are zip tied.?
I no longer have w/m nozzle pre s.c. --took it off for the winter and no track season. I just run one nozzle post blower now.

I will check maf readings tonight---thanks Ray --didnt think of that.

I wonder if my lim work reduced boost somehow--but i dont see how that would be?
It was just cleaning up the runners a little and removed the jet air(its sealed well)?

This past w/e I saw a 8 with a Mazsports turbo set up. It was sweet. I didnt know that Scott removed the apv motor and left the apvs open all the time? I do remember when I had the interceptor (before cams flash) that Scott sold me and had a basic tune with it--the car had more "kick ass" feel to it. Cams is much more driveable.
OD

Thx, Denny. If your LIM work resulted in lower manifold boost then you have done a good job and gleaned some benefits from it. You will also have proven that, at least in one context, the LIM is an impediment to airflow. Remember, "boost" is a value associated with resistance to airflow and is only applicable when evaluating certain things. MAF sensor readings are far more accurate and applicable when evaluating a given engine, especially if you have prior logs. Everything in Rote8's list will evidence itself as a drop-off in MAF readings above a certain RPM.

Denny, it's still possible to experience steady boost pressure with a slipping belt. I've had it happen. Tighten your SC belt a little bit and see if it changes anything.

You might need a new tensioner pulley.

Denny, it's still possible to experience steady boost pressure with a slipping belt. I've had it happen. Tighten your SC belt a little bit and see if it changes anything.

You might need a new tensioner pulley.

Yep, as the VE of the blower and engine change throughout their respective RPM ranges the "boost" level in the manifold will also change. The only way to establish a baseline for diagnosis or furthered development would be to have a drive system that is known to have zero-slippage, a relief valve that has 100% sealing, and a good set of data-logs for a given engine with the above parameters being met.

ok sounds like a plan
tonight----
1-efi dude run as is and record boost gauge readings
2- tighen belt and repeat run
double check pulley tightness and connections
if my intake work has caused a 2-3 lbs less boost for comparable maf readings ---then daymnnn. That wasnt expected.
OD

if my intake work has caused a 2-3 lbs less boost for comparable maf readings ---then daymnnn. That wasnt expected.
OD

.... and it would be deserving of a hearty pat on the back, Sir! BTW, "Happy" Veteran's Day and thank you for your service (IIRC, you were in the Marines).

txs Ray---and Sir you have a very good memory!
OD

txs Ray---and Sir you have a very good memory!
OD

Not to begrudge other branches but, if I were to serve, I would probably select the Marines for two reasons; 1) The serious discipline, 2) the dress uniform.

I am too clausterphopic for the Navy, not smart enough for the Air Force, and I don't know much about the Army except for what I have heard from Kane. Besides, if America's soil were attacked I would have no hesitation taking up arms against her enemies.

if my intake work has caused a 2-3 lbs less boost for comparable maf readings ---then daymnnn. That wasnt expected.
OD

Less boost may mean more flow.
More air flow is never a bad thing.

intake charge temperture----sensor mounted in the pettir upper im or the lim.
This is needed.
OD

OD,

The Pettit Upper intake or the Mazda lower intake are not good positions for the Intake Charge Temperature sensor, mine is on the inter cooler side of the "hump" so the hump hose isolates the engine heat from the sensor, you want charge temp, not engine temp.

I can read the blower and I/C temp with the position on the output of the I/C, and not read the engine temp via the aluminum connection to the short block.

Denny, it's still possible to experience steady boost pressure with a slipping belt. I've had it happen. Tighten your SC belt a little bit and see if it changes anything.

You might need a new tensioner pulley.

I can confirm you can have a constant boost reading with a slipping belt.

If you have a mechanical boost gauge it will iron out the boost fluctuations and give a constant pressure. I

have found the DEFI electrical gauges are extremely sensitive and can pick up the slightest boost fluctuations. I compared my electrical DEFI gauge against an autometer mechanical boost gauge and while the defi picks up fluctuations the autometer will be steady.

its almost impossible to get a truely accurate intake charge temp anywhere other than the intake ports and at the combustion entry.
i understand what you are saying but when i took laser temps in both those spots it was not much difference. The sensor just really tells me the intercooler is working and the w/m is working!
My intercooler w/pump lost prime one time and it showed right up!

EFI dude small run tonight
belt slippage at 7.1K limited my rpm--maf was 305 at 7.1K and 9lb boost. ambient temp 70F in take temp was 105F, engine temp was 185. Will tighten belt some more and try again.
OD

Anyone have the kit instructions saved in a file somewhere? I don't know what I did with mine. Thanks

sorry i have hardcopy only

well just for fun i looked at my ltft and it was over 9 and up to 15...........WTH never had that problem before.
Maybe it is time for a new maf?
od

http://www.pettitracing.co.uk/customer.html

will get you the instructions to download...... right click and "save as"

chasing lft's is not fun
OD

Denny, do yourself a big favor and hit your top pully HARD with a good air impact. Ask Greg how hard I hit his, I think he was about to freak out, giggle.

yeah because I was the one holding the damn pulley:D:,,,

OK, so I installed my new BDC ported and polished TB yesterday. Some observations.

-The BDC work(visually) is as expected, the polishing is beautiful.

-The TBs lip or edge is radius'd giving it a knife's edge.

-Dont necessarily notice(yet) a difference in throttle responce.

-The car may still be learning how to breath under idle, but with the BDC TB having a larger diamter at the base of the butterfly there is a larger gap around the non axis of the butterfly, is causing a rythmic idle. The TB(both oem and BDC) will sit in a slight opening under idle. The car now pulses as it tries to understand wether or not the TB is actually opening or not. It has to play catch-up with the understanding the vacuum readings its getting. Its a dance between 1200rpms and around 2K rpms. It thinks the TB is shut but the MAF is telling it to add fuel based off the air that is passing under vacuum. Its a very simular sound to a Bridgeport 13B. Im not sure what to make of this until I look at some data, its only at idle, and so far doesnt seem to hurt any performance

-Once under load everything is fine and hunkers down.

-Full boost(full manifold pressure) seems to come on slight quicker in the higher rpm range, maybe only by a couple 100 rpms, but slightly noticeable.

-There is a very high pitched whistle/whirl when coming off throttle under load, pretty neat, nothing that I feel hurts the performance, actually compliments the SC noise alot

I also took some dimensions off the two to compare sizes, the first dimension is the diamter at the opening, the second is the diamter at the depth where the butterfly sits,

http://i.imagehost.org/0977/TBcomparo.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0977/TBcomparo)

PICS-

http://i.imagehost.org/0752/CIMG2493.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0752/CIMG2493)

http://a.imagehost.org/0403/CIMG2495.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0403/CIMG2495)

http://i.imagehost.org/0160/CIMG2494.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0160/CIMG2494)

http://a.imagehost.org/0590/CIMG2498.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0590/CIMG2498)

http://a.imagehost.org/0758/butterflycloseup.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0758/butterflycloseup)

Data screenshots from Idle, first is with oe TB and second is from the BDC TB,,,
So far I haven't found anything that indicates that this idle is hurting the car, under load and in gear everything is as expected.
Any Thoughts????

http://i.imagehost.org/0357/normalidle.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0357/normalidle)

http://i.imagehost.org/0254/portedTB.jpg (http://i.imagehost.org/view/0254/portedTB)