Yea, I heard about the diesel thing. I haven't seen it yet but the motor for the trike once ran on it at one time. Very interesting stuff. Damit I can't wait to get back on that project. Well back to painting my house. When house is done and painted I can continue on.

hope its a one story home!
Rather take a beating.

news---you cant replace the fuel rail gas line fittings. You have to buy the intire line. The fuel rail to fuel rail line is approx $37
the line to the fuel rails from the firewall located connection is approx $57.
damn.
That rotary power mx 5 sure looks sweet and you should see the room in the engine bay.
we need a bigger idler pulley to help increase the contact patch of the belt on the blower pulley--any ideas?
If you can swing it get the 09 injectors. Juan is the man.
OD

So what is the scoop on the '09 injectors apart from them being "a little bit bigger" and have a good nozzle pattern?

Sound like you need a "Hymee Enhanced" 200 degree wrap on your blower drive like someone I know has :p

Cheers,
Hymee.

hope its a one story home!
Rather take a beating.

news---you cant replace the fuel rail gas line fittings. You have to buy the intire line. The fuel rail to fuel rail line is approx $37
the line to the fuel rails from the firewall located connection is approx $57.
damn.
That rotary power mx 5 sure looks sweet and you should see the room in the engine bay.
we need a bigger idler pulley to help increase the contact patch of the belt on the blower pulley--any ideas?
If you can swing it get the 09 injectors. Juan is the man.
OD

I don't know how big the idler you have is off the top of my head but if you are bound and determined to get something bigger the idler on my xterra is pretty good size.

Its the rack that's the problem, can't go much wider on the belt. Buy the way nice sig, I'm glad mine has none to to turn off.
I don't know how big the idler you have is off the top of my head but if you are bound and determined to get something bigger the idler on my xterra is pretty good size.

Has there been any updates to the stock pulley flash over the last several months? I haven't used my EFI Dude since last year, but I am currently trouble shooting a problem and I want to take my F'd up tuning with the AP out of the equation.

-Yambo

ok thanks for the tip-- the bigger pulley on a road race course needs a little help, on street and drag race/aut0cross--its prob ok? I did find a way to modify the a/c idler so it fits also. and oh yea i also found a way to use the rear engine hoist bracket as a flywheel stop when putting the flywheel on and off:)
The 09 engine when race prepped is getting more hp and the injectors are thought to be the key. This is in europe and I havent confirmed, but i heard 260hp.
OD

Its the rack that's the problem, can't go much wider on the belt. Buy the way nice sig, I'm glad mine has none to to turn off.

Belt Dressing (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LCT-37581/) helps.



:)

Well, some might be happy to hear I fabed up a slick bracket for the OMPs today. Its only taking minor touches for the conversions. It turned out that the OMP mount shows them proudly.

does belt dressing stuff work with our belts? Or will it disintegrate them and cause us to blow up? (I am paranoid about everything)

The description says "the cord fibers of "V" belts"..... wassat mean?

does belt dressing stuff work with our belts? Or will it disintegrate them and cause us to blow up? (I am paranoid about everything)

The description says "the cord fibers of "V" belts"..... wassat mean?

I have used belt dressing and it did work for a short period of time. the other thing I noticed when I removed my pulleys was the belt dressing clogged up the base of the V-s with belt material and goo. over time I suspect it actually makes the situation worse. the dressings are normally for one big V (v-belts) and not poly-V belts like on cars. if you find one for poly-v belts then all may be good.

why not just run a wider belt? Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon Assad View Post
Its the rack that's the problem, can't go much wider on the belt. Buy the way nice sig, I'm glad mine has none to to turn off.

lol should read all the posts

what width belt do you guys run?

over time I suspect it actually makes the situation worse.

Yeah thats what I'm always suspicious of.....

5 rib.
adjusted its ok.
Moon show us some pics of those racks--i dont know a lot about the 09 omps yet.
OD

I didn't take any. I stopped buy pettit and fabed her up real quick. Looks real good for cams first proto wich he's having made.

I have not yet tried to top end the combination with the larger pulley. Having a few tuning issues (not the pulleys fault) and some slippage of the belt on the new pulley. I should have the tuning issue fixed in a couple of weeks and I am working on the slippage problem (any of you with the large pulley have the same problem?)

Before the new pulley and the meth spray I was able to get to 153 on a Nevada Road race (to Laughlin Nevada) but aerodynamics took over and I became unstable (airborne).

edit: I had pedal left but no balls - I'm not sure how to drive (fly) an plane

You need the Mazdaspeed front end, after I got mine I can feel a huge difference in the high speed stability. It might have dropped my top end a few mph but the front end down force makes you feel like your changing lanes at 45 when your actually doing 95+. But beware of parking lot bump stops they might rip your face off!:scared:

my install has hit a roadblock.
I ALWAYS have trouble getting the trans back in--i can get it to that last inch(pilot bearing?) and then it just doesnt want to go any further. Took it back out tonight--cussed it out and damned it to hell.
Went inside and cleaned the kitchen and ate ice cream--i dont know why.
Figured I may as well fab up some guides for it before i touch it again. Its such a light trans--dont know why i have the trouble i do with it.
and yes the spline is aligned, grease is on, used an old driveshaft yoke for the sst to turn it when needed and it did engage
sigh.
OD

hahhah ah your stories are great Denny, good luck,,,

don't put it on backwards, I for one wouldn't want to go in reverse at over 100 MPH!

my install has hit a roadblock.
I ALWAYS have trouble getting the trans back in--i can get it to that last inch(pilot bearing?) and then it just doesnt want to go any further. Took it back out tonight--cussed it out and damned it to hell.
Went inside and cleaned the kitchen and ate ice cream--i dont know why.
Figured I may as well fab up some guides for it before i touch it again. Its such a light trans--dont know why i have the trouble i do with it.
and yes the spline is aligned, grease is on, used an old driveshaft yoke for the sst to turn it when needed and it did engage
sigh.
OD

are you trying to do this by yourself ? You really need two people on the job - one to make sure you are lining it up properly and the other to toss the thing in there

are you trying to do this by yourself ? You really need two people on the job - one to make sure you are lining it up properly and the other to toss the thing in there

A third helps with the proper vocabulary, you may get away with only two, but one of the two must be a Marine or a Sailor....
/That said, I have put one in alone, clutch was a ..., uh pleasant job.

:rant:

i have a dog? A good dog:)
making guide studs tonight.
OD

Denny, try this incantation:

(clench face into sneering mask of contempt and disgust)"You miserable mother(fornicating) piece of sh*t eating rat-bastard jeasly-eyed son of a beeyatch, I (urinate) on the graves of your ancestors that crawled up out of the slimy swamps to do nothing better than curse my life with your (fornicating)(Supreme Being)-damned Mother (fornicating)* miserable (fornicated)* you twisted deceitful piece of crap..."

(*degenerating into a seemingly every other word usage of the f-bomb only enhances the power of this incantation)

Feel free to ad-lib at this point as this is the main part of the spell, but don't deviate from the main body too much as undesired concequences may occur, such as striking expensive parts with expensive tools and causing small neighborhood children to dial 911. The blast radius of this curse is about 10 feet, so make sure your dogs are a safe distance before you use it. Finally, if you can make blood shoot out of your eyes and/or get some spit to fly off your lips, it usually helps. You'll know you've been successful when the item in question begins to glow a dull orange color; repeat as needed.

Good Luck!:ylsuper:

HA!!!
Enjoyed the hell out of that!! Book marked it and I am copying it to give to my fellow trackmates!

NP with the dogs--they recognize the need to convert to the observe status only while munching on a cat turd.

Guess what---it worked!!! Except it didnt really glow orange--guess it was because the blood and saliva didnt come out? But the cursed object is IN!
I think i saw the wheels shake a little?
GREAT!!
OD

There ya go. Glad to be of help; although, speaking for myself, I always find it pleasurable when I have to work to get that last inch in :smoker:

I ALWAYS have trouble getting ... it to that last inch... and then it just doesnt want to go any further

I tend to have that problem with the first inch when I try to go 'hands free' .

I tend to have that problem with the first inch when I try to go 'hands free' .

Nice! :eyetwitch

I tend to have that problem with the first inch when I try to go 'hands free' .

I have heard they have pills for that...

:o:



/I just could not let that go.

BTW:
What I came here for:

yall need more to do-------------------:O

Driving home a few weeks ago the motor quit at a stoplight. So far I have taken out the old spark plugs. Spun the motor a few times with the plugs out after letting the car sit for a few days. Took my battery to be tested at NAPA. Was told battery showed 0 health before and after recharge. Bought new battery. Realized one of the coil trigger wires had come loose from the harness. Resaudered and plugged back in. Car still will not crank.

Any ideas?

dont get ahead of yourself---check for spark--check for gas---then check compression if you have too.
you can do the atf trick if spark and gas is ok
good luck--hope it is simple
OD

Also check every fuze (unplugging/test individually with a meter), Check Engine Code(s) and ecentric shaft possitioning sensor/plug.

Good luck :eyetwitch

Driving home a few weeks ago the motor quit at a stoplight. So far I have taken out the old spark plugs. Spun the motor a few times with the plugs out after letting the car sit for a few days. Took my battery to be tested at NAPA. Was told battery showed 0 health before and after recharge. Bought new battery. Realized one of the coil trigger wires had come loose from the harness. Resaudered and plugged back in. Car still will not crank.

Any ideas?

Checking for Gas.

Make sure your getting gas.
Gas in the tank?
I will assume there IS gas in the fuel tank. :)
Fuel pump fuse good?
The next step would be to pull the fuel line to test for fuel near the engine, this is dangerous. No smoking near the gas.

The place I would choose is near the brake booster, where the gas hard line stops.

Disconnect the battery, go sleep, eat or watch TV for an hour while the fuel pressure bleeds down. (if there is fuel pressure)

Remove the quick connect clip on the gas line and put a rubber fuel hose over the hard line, run the rubber hose into an empty gas can that will hold at least a gallon of fuel.
Connect the battery, turn the key to "On" for a few seconds.
Disconnect the battery.
Is there gas in the can?
Yes? (The pump is at least pumping gas)
No? (You need a fuel pump)

Go to Mazda for a new fuel line, do not reuse the old one. (Ask OD why...)

Checking for compression

Jack up the drivers side, set a jack stand to hold the car and remove the front wheel.

Unplug all coils from the ECU, remove the two leading spark plug wires and spark plugs.
Spin the engine.
Does it sound off with a blast of compression SPPFFT "regular" or lumpy?
It should have regular compression sounds.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_X8Y_e_jouzo/SprzG-Mex4I/AAAAAAAAMkI/m44o94wzJj0/IMG_0323.jpg

Taking the Trimar supercharged demo car for a spin around Bedford Autodrome.
My driving was pretty sucky as it was first time on the fairly long circuit, and I had no idea where I was going most of the time. I got up to about 135mph on the main straight, then it started raining hard! So i peaked at about 125 mph from then on....

hey cs linkly no worky.
yep be careful with the fuel fittings!

Has anyone tried a great flow rate pump for the a/w cooler? Such as one off a ford lighting p/u? i wonder if the increased flow rate would help the efficiency
OD

Its displaying alright on my screen... hmmm its not any more!

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Phoenix5Fotos/MoTBedford#

Thats the link to the gallery. Photo 155 & 144 amongst others.....

I though I can change my air filter to give it a try :rock:

I need advice about mushroom air filter...never tried thoses...
Or else thinking to adapt the green "twister" to help the air filter taking only cold air
http://www.tuningracingcars27.com/images/kit_admission_directe_green_speedR_twister.gif

any advice ?

New flash, leaner and meaner.



:ylsuper:

who did flash your car ?

I though I can change my air filter to give it a try :rock:

I need advice about mushroom air filter...never tried thoses...
Or else thinking to adapt the green "twister" to help the air filter taking only cold air
http://www.tuningracingcars27.com/images/kit_admission_directe_green_speedR_twister.gif

any advice ?

Hey, or I found that one (blitz) :
http://www.blitzperformancesales.com/products/sonicpower/images/sonic_image.jpg

with a huge hoose to get fresh air :ylsuper:

who did flash your car ?

It was a Pettit flash from testing 570cc injectors.
I now have the 440cc injectors from an automatic.
My car was running way rich, so....
Good news is it worked.

how many cc has the stock injector ?

how many cc has the stock injector ?

Stock injectors for a 6 port: before 2009
The Primary 1 set (red) is 290cc
The Primary 2 set (yellow) is 380cc
The Auxiliary set (yellow) is 380cc

Stock injectors for a 4 port before 2009
Primary set is 290cc
Secondary set is 440cc

My setup
P1 = 290
P2 = 380
Aux = 440

are you going into 100% duty cycle? That is what concerns me. Nice outcome though!
I hear the 09 injectors are the best---change all 4 to the blues?

Hey some ?'s
I should have my car up and running this w/e (various things have delayed this)
Rick E engine through mazmart. Its my 1st NEW engine. SHould run better than ever. Got the thumbs up to run diesal oil also!
Is there a start up procedure you do before you crank? I know on recips you start it for a little to get oil pressure up before actual firing it up---do you do the same with a rotary?

Also ---is there any leakage going on with the apv? You can just blow through the intake with the apv closed and it is not sealed?
OD

are you going into 100% duty cycle? That is what concerns me. Nice outcome though!
I hear the 09 injectors are the best---change all 4 to the blues?

Hey some ?'s
I should have my car up and running this w/e (various things have delayed this)
Rick E engine through mazmart. Its my 1st NEW engine. SHould run better than ever. Got the thumbs up to run diesal oil also!
Is there a start up procedure you do before you crank? I know on recips you start it for a little to get oil pressure up before actual firing it up---do you do the same with a rotary?

Also ---is there any leakage going on with the apv? You can just blow through the intake with the apv closed and it is not sealed?
OD


You can pull the ECU to coil connectors to spin it with no spark.
There should be massive amounts of Vaseline in the rotor seals and bearings for the start-up.

Two important words for your new motor PRE-MIX!!!!

Also, try the Royal Purple 75W-90 gear oil in the blower.
Nice quite gears....

are you going into 100% duty cycle? That is what concerns me. Nice outcome though!
I hear the 09 injectors are the best---change all 4 to the blues?

Also ---is there any leakage going on with the apv? You can just blow through the intake with the apv closed and it is not sealed?
OD

With 4 blue injectors, it would be so rich that I could run methanol. :SHOCKED:

The injectors should not be at 100%
I need a fuel pressure gauge. :dunno:
Auxiliary valves leak, but not to atmosphere , only into the aux ports.
(Another possible reason for high trims though.)

thanks--- Ethanol----ahhhhhhhh.
i do know on the small pulley with stock injectors the injectors do get to 100% frequently?
OD

HI !

I discover an oil leak near the new place to fill engine oil !
going to buy some ss hose clamps to fix this up !

by the way, when I fill up my engine with oil, I did it too quickly so I oil leaked by my air filter :s
I cleaned it but I though I can change my filter for a better one..

What do you guys think of the green twister or blitz filter I suggested above ?

hehe, yeah I went out like a sucker with the "too fast oil fill" error as well. Then I did it again! DUH!


However I have now learned, and also crack open my dipstick to help air get out while I fill it up.

dont get ahead of yourself---check for spark--check for gas---then check compression if you have too.
you can do the atf trick if spark and gas is ok
good luck--hope it is simple
OD

atf trick?

thanks--- Ethanol----ahhhhhhhh.
i do know on the small pulley with stock injectors the injectors do get to 100% frequently?
OD

RX8 powered by 180 proof Rum ......
LOL...
:beer05:

^^hey rote8,

thanks for the response in that other thread.

and really, y didn't i see this thread earlier?

well, i have more interest in a SC for this car than turbo's. but this is no time soon.

maybe i'll try to check up on this thread more to start on the basics.

i do have a "do it once, do it right" mentality and don't think a particular FI is better than the other....but man, some TC owners tend to be really cold with me on the subject.... even on a SC thread title!

anyways, love to see the difference between the pettit's kit and hymee's and how does one really "look" better than the other.

any pics appreciated =)

look in the engine bay thread somewhere on the forum.

? all--In putting things back together---i found that the vacuum tank that all the intake manifold solenoids plug into and get their vacuum from? Well the ssv one is open. I mean you can blow through it and draw vacuum through it--none of the others do this. WHY? If you pull the little retangular cap off the back it has a little metal tube there. Thats where it all is happening---can I plug that up? Puzzled?
OD

Happy Birthday Denny,,,, :beerchug::smiley309:djcelebra

Thanks---got a box of depends for a present from a neighbor ---i kicked him in the knee-----grrrrr.
OD

Denny, tell me about the diesel oil thing. Are you saying run this in the motor instead of regular oil, and why?

i will sum it up----- Rick E (Mazmart enigines????) gives it a thumbs up.
Diesel is the only oil that maintained proper viscosity in multiple oil analysis tests.
It has increased amount of antiwear agents(will NOT hurt the cat) and it is designed to hold particles in suspension better. (diesel engines dont change oil as freq as cars--especially us) understand shear is better than others also.
Basically it is a better base stock than car oils.
I think the secret is getting out also --starting to notice car oil advertising increased phos and zinc etc being added to theirs.
Mobil 1 actually has a diesel full synthetic out with a wgt range of 5W/40. Advanced auto has it on sale for 5 quarts and a oil filter for $29. Some people are buying a whole years worth at this price. Any filter you want also as long as it is not over $13.
OD

hehe, yeah I went out like a sucker with the "too fast oil fill" error as well. Then I did it again! DUH!

However I have now learned, and also crack open my dipstick to help air get out while I fill it up.

good trick ;)
Buy the way, I have a f***ing hard time to get my dipstick out :sweatdrop
too many hooses in such a small place! I'll try to modify the holding part

good trick ;)
Buy the way, I have a f***ing hard time to get my dipstick out :sweatdrop
too many hoses in such a small place! I'll try to modify the holding part

Make sure the dipstick bends 45 degrees at the top of the dipstick tube, it's only hard to put in, not to take out.

:rofl:

Any filter you want also as long as it is not over $13.
OD

I disagree there.
I use K&N or Mazda filters only.
(Uh, oil filters)
Some filters (Fram) use cardboard seals inside, others use bad bypass assembles.
I prefer K&N over Mazda due to the 1 inch nut on top for a socket.

Take your favorite brand and cut it lengthwise with a hacksaw, you may be surprised...

:icon_tup:

I disagree there.
I use K&N or Mazda filters only.
Some filters (Fram) use cardboard seals inside, others use bad bypass assembleys.
I prefer K&N over Mazda due to the 1 inch nut on top for a socket.

Take your favorite brand and cut it lengthwise with a hacksaw, you may be surprised...

:icon_tup:

What I am looking for is to enclose the air filter so that he only take fresh air instead of the ultra hot temps of the engine bay :wink2:

Green, an excellent brand, have this kind of solution...

What I am looking for is to enclose the air filter so that he only take fresh air instead of the ultra hot temps of the engine bay :wink2:

Green, an excellent brand, have this kind of solution...


I was talking oil filters.

On the air filter side, I ran 3.5 inch aluminum pipe out of the engine compartment.
My air filter is now out in the front of the radiator and inter-coolers.

phi agree i use moble 1 filters which is really just a cheaper k/n
od

Checking for Gas.

Make sure your getting gas.
Gas in the tank?
I will assume there IS gas in the fuel tank. :)
Fuel pump fuse good?
The next step would be to pull the fuel line to test for fuel near the engine, this is dangerous. No smoking near the gas.

The place I would choose is near the brake booster, where the gas hard line stops.

Disconnect the battery, go sleep, eat or watch TV for an hour while the fuel pressure bleeds down. (if there is fuel pressure)

Remove the quick connect clip on the gas line and put a rubber fuel hose over the hard line, run the rubber hose into an empty gas can that will hold at least a gallon of fuel.
Connect the battery, turn the key to "On" for a few seconds.
Disconnect the battery.
Is there gas in the can?
Yes? (The pump is at least pumping gas)
No? (You need a fuel pump)

Go to Mazda for a new fuel line, do not reuse the old one. (Ask OD why...)

Okay. Fuel Pump and FP Relay fuses are good. I disconnected the fuel line that is to the left of the brake booster. I turned the ignition to the on position for at least 30s. No fuel in the runoff. I guess this means I need a new fuel pump? Are there any other posibilities?

no sound from the pump either?
FP's rarely fail to the point it doesnt pump anything.
If no sound is coming from the pump then you have a bad connection---somewhere---i hate those kind..
If the pump is running--then pull it and check all the hose connections.
OD

rote! that filter is so low! doesn't it suck up water like mad?

I assume you must get some big rain dumps / puddles in FL!

rote! that filter is so low! doesn't it suck up water like mad?

I assume you must get some big rain dumps / puddles in FL!
Actually, the plastic engine belly pan blocks the splash from the wheels.
I may move it to above the bumper, or right under the bumper.

no sound from the pump either?
FP's rarely fail to the point it doesnt pump anything.
If no sound is coming from the pump then you have a bad connection---somewhere---i hate those kind..
If the pump is running--then pull it and check all the hose connections.
OD

Either way, looks like i'm going to need to pull it. I allready tested the fuses, and purchased a brand new battery. The car does have @120k miles. Should I buy another pump from an 04, or go with a different brand?

buy a oem pump assembly--or if you want to upgrade --get the 09 assembly.
120K---dang--thats great.
OD

buy a oem pump assembly--or if you want to upgrade --get the 09 assembly.
120K---dang--thats great.
OD

Didn't you have to do some modifications to make the 09 assembly fit?

yea but its really nothing---just have to switch the fuel level connector and put a submersible fuel hose on the venturi pickup connector (its bigger than the pre 09's)
Then when you install you just rotate the entire assembly about 1/4 of a turn to get the gas line to fit ok.
Thats it. Its a way better unit---much better.
OD

yea but its really nothing---just have to switch the fuel level connector and put a submersible fuel hose on the venturi pickup connector (its bigger than the pre 09's)
Then when you install you just rotate the entire assembly about 1/4 of a turn to get the gas line to fit ok.
Thats it. Its a way better unit---much better.
OD

Did you happen to take pics before you installed? Where can I get the different fuel level connector? I'm assuming Mazmart will have the '09 pump.

just take the connector off the old pump and wire it up to the new one--be carefull which wire goes where.
Mazmart has some. Tell Paul I sent ya!
D

Cool. I may call them up in a couple of days if it turns out I need a new resistor. I'm going to replace the pump whether I need to or not. I'm trying to decide on another '04, an '09, or a higher flow pump, such as Walbro or some other aftermarket brand.

Cool. I may call them up in a couple of days if it turns out I need a new resistor. I'm going to replace the pump whether I need to or not. I'm trying to decide on another '04, an '09, or a higher flow pump, such as Walbro or some other aftermarket brand.


Let us know how it goes....
We all need a fuel solution.


:banghead:

never seen a resistor go bad.

9-9-2009

1- Florida I-4 between exits 28 and 37 mid-morning.
2- Nissan NISMO Z (with noticeable exterior mods).
3- SC RX8 (with not-so-much noticeable exterior mods).
4- Spanked twice with just downshifting from 6th to 5th
5- Watching the Nissan NISMO Z owner face expression after the second run.....

PRICELESS!!! :eyetwitch

9-9-2009

1- Florida I-4 between exits 28 and 37 mid-morning.
2- Nissan NISMO Z (with noticeable exterior mods).
3- SC RX8 (with not-so-much noticeable exterior mods).
4- Spanked twice with just downshifting from 6th to 5th
5- Watching the Nissan NISMO Z owner face expression after the second run.....

PRICELESS!!! :eyetwitch

I did this to a probably bone stock 350Z. I didn't get to see his face because he pulled off at the next rest area, probably to see what was wrong with his car...:lol2:

Okay. Fuel Pump and FP Relay fuses are good. I disconnected the fuel line that is to the left of the brake booster. I turned the ignition to the on position for at least 30s. No fuel in the runoff. I guess this means I need a new fuel pump? Are there any other posibilities?

you might send me a pm.

i had a odd fuse go at a track day. rendered the pump dead.. first thing i would do is see if you are getting power to the pump..

we did that after i pulled the pump.. i am sure denny recalls that day.. ;)

and for me the odd fuse was not one you would think of being involved..

btw, i have an extra resistor if you need it.

beers :beer:

Received my Re-medy pump and Thermostat :)
will install it this week end :) (thanks to mazda technical CD for the "DIY" help)

You did use the fuel pump check ground thingy right---if you just turned on the switch it will not pump. Safety feature.
Swoope I do remember---hell of a day.
We never to have a fuel system analysis w/e meeting and come up with some fix's.
OD

ok i am stumped---new engine in--double and triple checked all connections/fuses. plugs getting spark--but no evidence of gas. Pump will come on for 1-2 secs then quit. fp relays are clicking when i turn the key.guess i have to pull the pump? No gas in lines at all---none! Damn car
i am going to have to use the chant again.
Any ideas yall??
OD

ok i am stumped---new engine in--double and triple checked all connections/fuses. plugs getting spark--but no evidence of gas. Pump will come on for 1-2 secs then quit. fp relays are clicking when i turn the key.guess i have to pull the pump? No gas in lines at all---none! Damn car
i am going to have to use the chant again.
Any ideas yall??
OD




Fill the tank with gas.
Check for a plastic quick connect fitting parts in the fuel line.

LOL
:boink:


Seriously,
Connect a hose to the pump output at the tank, see if there is gas coming from the pump; send a wire of jumper power direct to the pump input.
If that test fails, the pump is probably pining for the fjords.

Check for a plastic quick connect fitting parts in the fuel line.

:rollingla:rollingla:cuddle::wallbash:

Short the fuel pump jumper in the fuse box to make the pump run continuously when the key is in the "on" position.
That's what its there for!

never seen a resistor go bad.

I've seen two of them. Burned right out.

buy a oem pump assembly--or if you want to upgrade --get the 09 assembly.

Bad idea at the moment, so hold off on that.

I just started testing one of these and the results are disturbing.

Look on the bright side, Denny... no gas means your car won't go up in flaming glory on the roadside. Think of how good your mileage is and how you're reducing your carbon footpring. Instead of having a high performance snarling beast, you've got a great life-sized play car like you had in the sandbox when you were a kid. You won't look near as cool pushing the car around, but if you can practice making "zoomzoom" sounds, people might not notice...:smoker:

BTW, emptying litter box today, your dogs need any extra cat turds?

Seriously,
Connect a hose to the pump output at the tank, see if there is gas coming from the pump; send a wire of jumper power direct to the pump input.
If that test fails, the pump is probably pining for the fjords.

Seriously, I'm thinking along the same lines. Fuel pump is cavitating or shot, and may have been the cause of the original engine failure in the first place, hmmm? I mean, just because the fuel pump is making noise doesn't mean it's working. I know, I have employees like that.

yep plan on doing the short this morning --thanks.
and ha ha you guys are funny---realllll funny but i will look anyway!

Seen resistors go bad? Dang wonder how that happened---short or something?
Whats up with the 09 setup --what did ya find--fess up--so far its been working very well for me?
I do really need a fuel pressure gauge--but i am getting crosseyed looking at what i have now.
pretty soon i am going to need an engine supervisor to ride with me so i can just drive.

yep plan on doing the short this morning --thanks.
and ha ha you guys are funny---realllll funny but i will look anyway!

Seen resistors go bad? Dang wonder how that happened---short or something?
Whats up with the 09 setup --what did ya find--fess up--so far its been working very well for me?
I do really need a fuel pressure gauge--but i am getting crosseyed looking at what i have now.
pretty soon i am going to need an engine supervisor to ride with me so i can just drive.


Sorry for the dark humor Denny.
I laugh at things I cannot change, because I do not have the serenity to accept them.

yep plan on doing the short this morning --thanks.
and ha ha you guys are funny---realllll funny but i will look anyway!

Seen resistors go bad? Dang wonder how that happened---short or something?
...

resistors go bad from overheating, the ceramic cracking or a combination. defiantly not unheard of

it's alive-----i was out of gas:crazy:Not enough in it to supply the pump with the angle the car has on the stands:rant:

Getting the first fire up misfires. Grrrrr.
Now the windshield is broke----big ole crack in it--maybe i did it while i was sleepwalking?:Kill2:
call geico:mdrmed:
maybe i can get one with eyeballs - like that one in the movie "Cars"?:hahano:

maybe the "insult chant" got so blue the windscreen couldn't take it.....

THATS IT! It should come with a warning to only use once ---instead of like I did-----daily.

THATS IT! It should come with a warning to only use once ---instead of like I did-----daily.

Everything has side effects, nothing is perfect. You got your transmission in, didn't you? You should have stopped there. Using the Incantation without a specific object to direct it towards will ultimately result in the energy being direct towards unintended objects.

Were you really out of gas?:evil_laug
Fill the tank with gas.

Just yankin' Denny, I can do much worse. And frequently do.

Hey guys im doing a Pettit supercharger install right now and was at the assembly part of it and was wondering where specifically the fuel line(?) is suppose to go. you disconnect it from the plastic intake manifold assembly (blue clip) and in the instructions it doesnt state where to place it back. please help as soon as possible! thank you!

Hey guys im doing a Pettit supercharger install right now and was at the assembly part of it and was wondering where specifically the fuel line(?) is suppose to go. you disconnect it from the plastic intake manifold assembly (blue clip) and in the instructions it doesnt state where to place it back. please help as soon as possible! thank you!

That blue line is the evap system, remove the little, electronic wire connected, two nippled, valve thing from the stock intake; one side goes to vacuum from the blower intake side (right below the blower bypass valve) the other side goes to the metal line near the hard fuel line.

awsome we got that now what about the VDI actuator? i know that you are suppose to plug the VDI hose that comes out of the "Vacuum tank" but what do you need to do with the actuator? i feel like i am missing something.

hi,I am having a hard time instylling my Re-Medy water pump...
and when I though I was going to finish : the petit sc has a part that do not allow me to take out the water pump (see pict).

any solution please ??? !! :scratchhe

hi,I am having a hard time instylling my Re-Medy water pump...
and when I though I was going to finish : the petit sc has a part that do not allow me to take out the water pump (see pict).

any solution please ??? !! :scratchhe

Do you have to take out the SC to move that piece? Is the SC using the pump bolt?..can you get a wrench on the bolt and remove it?

Kinda sucks if you can't :(

I definitly think I have to move the SC forward...
I finaly took out every blet to acces to all the nuts...
but I do not remember where is the 4th nut (the sc in fixed with 3 nut in the front and one in the back - where is it ??)
so complicated... and I didn't start the thermostat change :(

hi,I am having a hard time instylling my Re-Medy water pump...
and when I though I was going to finish : the petit sc has a part that do not allow me to take out the water pump (see pict).

any solution please ??? !! :scratchhe


Remove S/C belt.
Remove S/C pulley.
Remove the 6 bolts behind the S/C pulley that hold on the bracket.

thanks, but If I remove the 6 bolts... the sc oil won't get out ?
Sorry for this question but I am not yet an expert... but i am learning fast :D

you will have to angle the sc to get the water pump off.. take all the retaining bolts off the sc and lift it up enough to get the wat pump bolt out.
The 4th retaining nut is in the rear of the sc and it attaches to the engine via a stud..
do the thermostat while everything is apart also.
have your secondary radiator yet?
OD

not yet, pettit told me they are working on it...
still waiting...

and what do you think about rote advice :
taking the sc main pulley's 6 bolt out ?

My idle has become very erratic in the past few days. Needle jumps somewhere between 400 and 1200 rpms when I let off the gas. Usually it stabilizes after 10 seconds or so, but sometimes it just jumps to around 1700 rpm and stays there for a while. It died on me once too. What could it be? Loose vacuum tube maybe?

and what do you think about rote advice :
taking the sc main pulley's 6 bolt out ?


You can remove the entire blower or the 6 bolts holding the front plate to the blower.
My Juan's way is easier.

ok, I prefer the 6 bolts solution :D
much more easier !! :lol:
I'll do it tomorow...and then the thermostat...

while I am doing that, is it easy to change the radiator hoses?
wich one are them...I only know they are three

My idle has become very erratic in the past few days. Needle jumps somewhere between 400 and 1200 rpms when I let off the gas. Usually it stabilizes after 10 seconds or so, but sometimes it just jumps to around 1700 rpm and stays there for a while. It died on me once too. What could it be? Loose vacuum tube maybe?


Use more pre-mix.

Use more pre-mix.

I do use premix. How would that have anything to do with idle?

I do use premix. How would that have anything to do with idle?

Premix raises the vacuum, my vacuum goes from 17 to 22 at idle when I premix.
Our cars run a little smoother at idle when burning a little premix...

:yesnod:

Premix raises the vacuum, my vacuum goes from 17 to 22 at idle when I premix.
Our cars run a little smoother at idle when burning a little premix...

:yesnod:

I see. But I do use premix every fill up so that's out of the question.

Like I said it only happens when I take my foot off the accelerator for a few seconds, then stabilizes. Its really annoying. Twice the rpms dropped too low and the car just died. To keep it from doing that I have to blip the throttle in neutral right after i take my foot off the accelerator.

i understand the supercharger has to be lubricated with oil. but what type of oil do i need to use and how much of it? also do i put it in the dipstick hole to fill it up? i crank this bad boy for the first time tonight and i want to make sure everything is right. thanks!

about 5 ozs of 50 w and change it after the 1st 100 miles or so

thanks man, okay so i got everything hooked up and lubricated problem is....its not starting. at first i thought that it was the battery so i hooked it up to another car and tried to kick it over and still not turning over at all. ive checkd and double checkd the spark plug wires to the ignition coils and it seems right. as we are doing this it is smelling more and more like gas. so i think that i may have now flooded the engine with gas. is that common after just hooking up the super? let me know what yall think can be up with this thng

I see. But I do use premix every fill up so that's out of the question.

Like I said it only happens when I take my foot off the accelerator for a few seconds, then stabilizes. Its really annoying. Twice the rpms dropped too low and the car just died. To keep it from doing that I have to blip the throttle in neutral right after i take my foot off the accelerator.

It sounds like a tune issue, try the "Chicken Dance" first.

With the car off:
Turn key to the engine on position.
Quickly press the brake pedal 25 times.
When you hit 20 times you will see the gauges move.
Turn the key off, then start the car.
Is your idle still wrong?

If the idle is still wrong, check for vacuum leaks and then perform a compression test to eliminate the possibility of a cracked seal.
:anger:


Log some data and email Cam with the log file.

i understand the supercharger has to be lubricated with oil. but what type of oil do i need to use and how much of it? also do i put it in the dipstick hole to fill it up? i crank this bad boy for the first time tonight and i want to make sure everything is right. thanks!

Cam recommends any good quality 20W-50 oil.
I recommend Royal purple 75W-90 gear oil for quiet gear noise at idle.

in the engine bay fuse box--check the fuse that says "engine"--same thing happened to me. everything works but no starter--blown engine fuse.
OD

The RP gear oil is absolute crap in the RX8 transmission. It's been well documented that people (including myself) have had poor transmission performance with it.

+1
I put RP in my tranny temporarily until I could drive down to Summit Racing and purchase the Redline.
Well... I procrastinated for awhile and now my shifting is notchy!
I should have known better. :icon_no2:

Did I just reply to a quote that Flashwing deleted?

Did I just reply to a quote that Flashwing deleted?
yup

they were talking about oiling the supercharger not the transmission...so apparently flashwing deleted his post, realizing his error

well i am officially part of the Pettit Supercharged RX8 gang! It turned over finally (it was flooded) its running great and i am in love with it. i am going real easy on it right now and going to keep it soft and easy for a few days then put some ass in it a little later. well thanks for all of yalls help threw this process.

It sounds like a tune issue, try the "Chicken Dance" first.

With the car off:
Turn key to the engine on position.
Quickly press the brake pedal 25 times.
When you hit 20 times you will see the gauges move.
Turn the key off, then start the car.
Is your idle still wrong?

If the idle is still wrong, check for vacuum leaks and then perform a compression test to eliminate the possibility of a cracked seal.
:anger:


Log some data and email Cam with the log file.

Nope, nothing worked.
Cleaned the MAF checked for leaks, everything looks fine.
I don't think CAM will look at my files since I bought the SC used.
Shouldn't be a tune issue since it was running fine for a few months already.
Any other suggestions?

does this happen all the time or time to time?

PS Congrats Woody! Welcome to the superclub!

Nope, nothing worked.
Cleaned the MAF checked for leaks, everything looks fine.
I don't think CAM will look at my files since I bought the SC used.
Shouldn't be a tune issue since it was running fine for a few months already.
Any other suggestions?

If pulling the room fuse to reset your trims and doing the e-shaft profile reset (brake pedal dance) doesn't fix the problem, then check your plugs, and then check your compression.

Nope, nothing worked.

Bummer.

Cleaned the MAF checked for leaks, everything looks fine.
I don't think CAM will look at my files since I bought the SC used.

Have you asked?
Cam is usually pretty supportive.

Shouldn't be a tune issue since it was running fine for a few months already.
Any other suggestions?
How are you flashed? (the Pettit flashes are per VIN token)

Bummer.

Have you asked?
Cam is usually pretty supportive.

How are you flashed? (the Pettit flashes are per VIN token)

Have a map from Hymee and used the Protuner to flash.
Thanks for the help guys.
Will check the plugs and double check everything next week when I have some free time.

Macius, as you did your flash what is your idle rpm set at normally?

If it was set a little low and some LTT built up, maybe its setting off some hunting?

Have a map from Hymee and used the Protuner to flash.
Thanks for the help guys.
Will check the plugs and double check everything next week when I have some free time.

You run your car with the pettit sc and an hymee flash ? :eyetwitch

So yesterday on my way home from work I was cruising on Loch Raven Blvd and a modded Z passes me about a car length I pulled hard and cought/passed him and let off, he pulled up to me and rolled down his window and nodded and said "Is that 'the' SuperCharged 8?",yup and nodded back "Hell yeah, Nice"
hahha my cars reputation preceeds it,,,,

So yesterday on my way home from work I was cruising on Loch Raven Blvd and a modded Z passes me about a car length I pulled hard and cought/passed him and let off, he pulled up to me and rolled down his window and nodded and said "Is that 'the' SuperCharged 8?",yup and nodded back "Hell yeah, Nice"
hahha my cars reputation preceeds it,,,,


Nice man!

You run your car with the pettit sc and an hymee flash ? :eyetwitch

Airflow is airflow?

What does it matter if the 300 g/s of AIR entering your engine come from a supercharger or a turbo?

Brettus is running a modified hymee SC flash for his upgraded greddy turbo. Air is air, timing is timing, it doesn't matter what the source is... I could hook up a shopvac on blow to my intake and it would still be increased airflow :rock:

So yesterday on my way home from work I was cruising on Loch Raven Blvd and a modded Z passes me about a car length I pulled hard and cought/passed him and let off, he pulled up to me and rolled down his window and nodded and said "Is that 'the' SuperCharged 8?",yup and nodded back "Hell yeah, Nice"
hahha my cars reputation preceeds it,,,,

Nice way to spread the love.
Ha! :eyetwitch

if he had asked you to make him some cool parts as well, you would know YOUR reputation had preceded you as well!

guys----fuel supply question.
Anyone else running the 09 pump besides me? I ask because i am concerned about the FP pressures on track. On the street or even autocrossing and dragracing they probably are fine, but on the road course its different. I dont know if the fp can keep up with the big pulley set up. I am thinking it cant really do it..
As soon as my engine is broken in I think I am going to play with the kenne Bell boost a pump set up. It gives you some control on fuel delivery that we dont have now.
I started a thread on it.
What are yalls thoughts.
Yall quit beating up those little boys on the highways-----hehhehe.
Oh and by the way I have perfected the poly motor mount--anyone interested?
OD

guys----fuel supply question.
Anyone else running the 09 pump besides me? I ask because i am concerned about the FP pressures on track. On the street or even autocrossing and dragracing they probably are fine, but on the road course its different. I dont know if the fp can keep up with the big pulley set up. I am thinking it cant really do it..
As soon as my engine is broken in I think I am going to play with the kenne Bell boost a pump set up. It gives you some control on fuel delivery that we dont have now.
I started a thread on it.
What are yalls thoughts.
Yall quit beating up those little boys on the highways-----hehhehe.
Oh and by the way I have perfected the poly motor mount--anyone interested?
OD

No surprise. It seems that the stock/OEM injection and ignition components are pushed to the the upper limits of their duty cycles with even N/A setups; makes sense that prolonged high speed runs will show the weak links. Were you running the 09 pump at Road Atlanta when the fuel line popped?

yep. Glad i had it --could have been worse.
OD

I need set of braces to allow the MazdaSpeed front Brace to clear the front of the Pettit blower. Where can I get these?

Airflow is airflow?

What does it matter if the 300 g/s of AIR entering your engine come from a supercharger or a turbo?

Brettus is running a modified hymee SC flash for his upgraded greddy turbo. Air is air, timing is timing, it doesn't matter what the source is... I could hook up a shopvac on blow to my intake and it would still be increased airflow :rock:

Yeah that is what it is all about. I'd prefer to say that Brettus started with a base boosted map with his Pro Tuner. I guess the message is that Pro Tuner is a tool for tuning, not a supercharger specific flash, which is sort of where one of the earlier questions was coming from.

Cheers,
Hymee.

I'd prefer to say that Brettus started with a base boosted map with his Pro Tuner.
Hymee.

Yeah - 117 flashes later and the the latest flash bears little resemblance to what I started with .

Nice :)

I need set of braces to allow the MazdaSpeed front Brace to clear the front of the Pettit blower. Where can I get these?

Just get some spacers cut, and you will also have to get longer bolts, while your at it get stainless instead of the MS Zinc coated(gets ugly and frosted after a while) McMaster Carr is where I sourced all my hardware...
Then mount the bar on the front side of the brace stands,,,,

http://h.imagehost.org/0974/sc-eb5.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0974/sc-eb5)

117 flash's---------Dang dude!
yep we all are growing up---air is air.
But air is funny stuff.

Would anyone like to get better motor mounts? I may market some.
OD

I want motor mountz!!!!!!

.................................................. .................................................. ..................

Would anyone like to get better motor mounts? I may market some.
OD


Interested!

So yesterday on my way home from work I was cruising on Loch Raven Blvd and a modded Z passes me about a car length I pulled hard and cought/passed him and let off, he pulled up to me and rolled down his window and nodded and said "Is that 'the' SuperCharged 8?",yup and nodded back "Hell yeah, Nice"
hahha my cars reputation preceeds it,,,,

haha. that's awesome!

http://h.imagehost.org/0974/sc-eb5.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0974/sc-eb5)

very nice looking engine bay! the best engine bay shot I have seen on the site.

hey i have a question about an issue i am having with the super. when i am rev up the engine WOT at about 3 to 4 rpm i am hearing a grinding noise idk if it is a metal to metal grinding noise or if it is an air exiting noise but it happens for a quick secound when i do that. just wanted to know if it is normal. also was wondering how to change the compressor oil. should i just syphon it out or is there a drain plug and im just missing it. now i know Cam recomends 6 to 8 oz of 20w50 oil for the super but do you guys recomend something better for it? now i know someone said RP 75w90. what are the thought on this??? just trying to troubleshoot some issues. thank for your help guys!!!

hey i have a question about an issue i am having with the super. when i am rev up the engine WOT at about 3 to 4 rpm i am hearing a grinding noise idk if it is a metal to metal grinding noise or if it is an air exiting noise but it happens for a quick secound when i do that. just wanted to know if it is normal.


No, not at all.
I have never heard metal to metal noise at all.
Call CAM now.


also was wondering how to change the compressor oil. should i just syphon it out or is there a drain plug and im just missing it. now i know Cam recomends 6 to 8 oz of 20w50 oil for the super but do you guys recomend something better for it? now i know someone said RP 75w90. what are the thought on this??? just trying to troubleshoot some issues. thank for your help guys!!!

Cams way is to remove one of the Allen bolts on the bottom front of the S/C.
Do the change Cam's way the first time to remove any break in particles.

I use a small vacuum pump and a short piece of small diameter hose to go in through the oil level check hole.
Make sure the hose is small enough diameter to reach the bottom of the S/C; this is much easier and faster.

rote8... your pic your K&N intake filter has a black sock on it! whats that all about?

Also whats the little mini K&N filter by the intake pipe? An oil breather?

Its Rotr8, the sock is a K&N dry charger, its just another layer to clean up the dust and water from getting to the filter, you can get them in pretty much any size on K&Ns website,,,
And yes thats a breather, its my temporary stand in for a catch can, once the catch can is in the breather will sit on top the catch can,,,

kane and phil --pm's sent
sure be glad when i get 1K on this new engine.
got fuel system work/study to do!
OD

by the way Denny what was your mileage when your engine went, and how many of those were SC'd???

well im currently using 20w50 and it is knocking alittle at idle also so idk if it is that. i cant call Cam because it is Sunday. and the grind noise is 4 to 5 rpm now and only when i am in boost. still cant narrow it down at all so im blind at this point.

the noise at idle is normal--what else is happening---no clue. Does it happen on free reving?
Maybe the idler pulley?

rote i had about 12K on it but i would not count this as a blown engine because of how it happened. Dang 2 cent fuel line part.
I am thinking guys that we need fuel pump help also.Most fp are designed to produce approx 30% more than the engine requires----well i think we are past that. After break in i am going with the kenne bell.
OD

After break in i am going with the kenne bell.


You are driving a Mustang, now?

lol----since mazda stores their parts at John Deere and some of fords assembly lines run mazda vehicles through them on some days --figured why the heck not.
besides it fits my requirements--cheap and easy------uhhh no honey i am NOT talking about you again---damn! i have to stop talking while i try to type.
OD

lol----since mazda stores their parts at John Deere and some of fords assembly lines run mazda vehicles through them on some days --figured why the heck not.
besides it fits my requirements--cheap and easy------uhhh no honey i am NOT talking about you again---damn! i have to stop talking while i try to type.
OD


Well Denny, you DO have the inter cooler ice box from a Mustang, maybe you were planning on adding Mustang parts a little at a time.

PS: Rick DID build a new "Rotary" not a "Boss 302"?

:lol2:

Also, a question/idea.
Our air intake temperature sensor is installed in the Pettit UIM (or at least mine is), which is aluminum and mounted to the engine block; I am planning on moving my temp sensor to the super charger side of the hump hose to provide a more valid temperature reading on the air charge instead of the block and intake temperature.

Just get some spacers cut, and you will also have to get longer bolts, while your at it get stainless instead of the MS Zinc coated(gets ugly and frosted after a while) McMaster Carr is where I sourced all my hardware...
Then mount the bar on the front side of the brace stands,,,,

http://h.imagehost.org/0974/sc-eb5.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0974/sc-eb5)

I didn't ust spacers..just cut the brakets and fixe them in a better way...
just have a look...

My engine bay isn't really clean yet as I am doing some mod...

lol----since mazda stores their parts at John Deere and some of fords assembly lines run mazda vehicles through them on some days --figured why the heck not.
besides it fits my requirements--cheap and easy------uhhh no honey i am NOT talking about you again---damn! i have to stop talking while i try to type.
OD

The Mazda Flat Rock (MI) assembly plant builds Mustangs and Mazda 6s on the same line, every day they operate.

hey 1st a tank then who knows --i likw the mustang gt old school looking wheels too--they fit on a 7----hmmmmm.
just finished one motor mount for myself and working on some others--ended up not being just rip out the guts and pour poly in kind of thing.Looking for a mustang bolt to fit it!
OD

Its Rotr8,

whoops I just realised there is an rote8 and a rotr8 as well! my mistake!

hey 1st a tank then who knows --i likw the mustang gt old school looking wheels too--they fit on a 7----hmmmmm.
just finished one motor mount for myself and working on some others--ended up not being just rip out the guts and pour poly in kind of thing.Looking for a mustang bolt to fit it!
OD


Keep it up and you will wind up with a 429 RX8....


:lol:

big block hemi (rotary)

no Allison--V12!!
OD

Or stay rotary....
Pratt & Whitney J58 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pratt_&_Whitney_J58)


The only problem would be getting disqualified for not remaining in contact with the ground on longer straights....

/And getting banned from the dyno.

:SHOCKED:

Now here's a rotary you might get under the hood, and you'd have that "supercharger whine" to boot. :D: Rent your RX-8 services to NASCAR for track drying excursions. :rollingla

Allison T56 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolls-Royce_Model_250)

Hell, it might fit at that! (http://www.avonaero.com/allison.htm)

Now here's a rotary you might get under the hood, and you'd have that "supercharger whine" to boot. :D: Rent your RX-8 services to NASCAR for track drying excursions. :rollingla

Allison T56 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolls-Royce_Model_250)

Hell, it might fit at that! (http://www.avonaero.com/allison.htm)
I think it would fit;
19.0 in wide and 22.5 in high; 40.8 in long....
I pity the clutch and you can forget the stock transmission.
You better get a very large resonated mid-pipe :mdrmed:

I wonder if it can be tuned for Methanol; to run colder and be "green"? LOL

I think it would fit;
19.0 in wide and 22.5 in high; 40.8 in long....
I pity the clutch and you can forget the stock transmission.
You better get a very large resonated mid-pipe :mdrmed:

I wonder if it can be tuned for Methanol; to run colder and be "green"? LOL

The A/T crowd would love it; zero to "HOLY ODIN!!" in three seconds, no clutch. :mdrmed:

We could finally use those "gills" behind the front wheel arches for something useful; enlarge 'em about 25% and duct the exhaust through them.

yep and a "wing " would take on a different meanong and what would you do with all those birds you suck in?

yep and a "wing " would take on a different meanong and what would you do with all those birds you suck in?

Just make sure you thaw the chicken when testing.
:ylsuper:

Just get some spacers cut, and you will also have to get longer bolts, while your at it get stainless instead of the MS Zinc coated(gets ugly and frosted after a while) McMaster Carr is where I sourced all my hardware...
Then mount the bar on the front side of the brace stands,,,,

http://h.imagehost.org/0974/sc-eb5.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0974/sc-eb5)


Thanks for the pic, Rote. I can fab that up in my shop. BTW, is that paint or powdercoat on your sc?

Man the second person that thinks Im Rote8,,, Im Rotr8,,, its all good though
Flat Black high temp paint,,,, Good Luck Zen,,,

Another Shot,,,

http://h.imagehost.org/0722/sc-eb6a.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0722/sc-eb6a)

Dare I say it, that engine bay is "elegant". :)

Zenrx8's question does raise a couple of my own, and those would be, "Can you powdercoat the Pettit without damaging the intercooler?", and "Can the weld lines be ground flush?".

"Can the weld lines be ground flush?".


This one, I can answer, NO.

Someone tried in the UK, Cam told me about it.


:evil_laug

This one, I can answer, NO.

Someone tried in the UK, Cam told me about it.


:evil_laug

Let me guess, inadvertent "overpressure blowout panel"? :eek:

Well, you gotta ask to know, so thanks for saving me that bit of embarrassment. :rolleyes:

Let me guess, inadvertent "overpressure blowout panel"? :eek:

Well, you gotta ask to know, so thanks for saving me that bit of embarrassment. :rolleyes:

He did say they had polished it real shiny too.

yeah unfortunately the welds were ground right out.

It looked nice though, and the rest can be shiny with no problems, just watch out to leave the welds intact!

Dare I say it, that engine bay is "elegant". :)

Zenrx8's question does raise a couple of my own, and those would be, "Can you powdercoat the Pettit without damaging the intercooler?", and "Can the weld lines be ground flush?".

Grinding the welds flush, no-no. Besides, Cam's welds are a work of art in their own right. As far as powdercoating, yes , you should be able to do it, but the problem is going to be oil creep contaminating the powedercoated surfaces as the blower sits in the oven. High temp paint should work as well and can be touched up easily.

yeah I did hi temp paint too..looks very nice....(imho)
http://www.rx8club.com/album.php?albumid=428&pictureid=3173

but the problem is going to be oil creep contaminating the powder coated surfaces as the blower sits in the oven. High temp paint should work as well and can be touched up easily.


Uh, you know you can remove the blower intake and the inter-cooler side too?
Do NOT put the blower into an oven....

I rotated my bypass valve.
Now my vacuum hose fitting is pointed straight away from my blower intake side.
Idle engine vacuum is steady at 20 inches of vacuum, where the other way I had a bounce between 18 and 20.
The vacuum line connection is easier to get to as well.

got any pics?

you did what?
you know ppf's can be a bit tricky to get just right.
also having a exhaust leak when cold--after it warns up good it mostly goes away. ???
new gaskets all the way around--hand cut from percy;'s XXX carbon sheet.
you think i have warped a flange?
also with both mm @ 60 hardeness (poly mounts) you do get a bit of nvh below 2.2K. not much--- but it is there, thinking about doing a 1.5 mm set up.60 on passenger side and reinforce a oem mount on drivers side.
you can really tell a different in throttle "stap" and shifting--its nice. just feels stronger.
OD

got any pics?

Here is the new bypass valve position, this way the vacuum side of the blower intake seems to seal better, under boost it seems the same as usual.

The top -4 AN fitting is my Methanol and the check valves for methanol.
The wire from the very top of the Pettit I/C is the new air temp sensor position.


Yeah, it needs a cleaning, it is my daily driver.

:dunno:

hmmmmm--what type bypass vavle is that?
no worrys mine is a dd too.
OD

Here is the new bypass valve position, this way the vacuum side of the blower intake seems to seal better, under boost it seems the same as usual.

The top -4 AN fitting is my Methanol and the check valves for methanol.
The wire from the very top of the Pettit I/C is the new air temp sensor position.


Yeah, it needs a cleaning, it is my daily driver.

:dunno:

that interesting that yor seeing a difference in vac during idle, what made you think to do this?
and did you paint your LIM in the engine bay or take it out,,,

hmmmmm--what type bypass vavle is that?
no worrys mine is a dd too.
OD

I got my billet bypass from Cam when he was first testing them, Juan and Gleyner are running the same model.

that interesting that your seeing a difference in vac during idle, what made you think to do this?
and did you paint your LIM in the engine bay or take it out,,,

The vacuum on the 1 inch pipe pulls the bypass shut harder in this position, more vacuum to boost difference equals a harder pull/push closed on the bypass piston.
The boost pushes the bypass valve piston towards the S/C intake vacuum side, instead of boost pressing the side of the piston to hold the piston shut against the boost.
I painted the LIM out of the engine bay, I also have a Pettit clutch.....
:rofl:

hi :Peace:

While my water pump pulley is out..I was look for some others & I found those 2 ones at fluidmotorsports : "Greddy Pulleys for Water Pump and Alternator"

do some of you guys have them ?
any change noticed ?

thanks :cool:

if they are underdrive pulleys --dont ---
if they are just lighten pulleys --dont waste your money unless you just like the looks.
OD

ok guys--- i know i am a pain in the ass because i keep talking about our fuel pump /delivery system. But, hear me out.
You dont want to "discover" a fuel delivery problem while you are at 8K in 3nd gear --it may not be pretty.
I dont know if anyone else has done any tracking while running the big pulley setup, BUT I have. Even with the 09 pump in I am suspecting it cant keep up.
Manufacturers design the fuel system so that it can oversupply by 30%. That is basically the rule. Well we are way past that 30%.
Is youre car running well? Probably. A/F's look great and all that jazz. Well--dont feel so good.
Remember we are running with the fuel injectors at 100% duty cycle at times--if there is a dropage in voltage to the pump of only 1 volt---guess what--and it can happen so quick that your a/f gauge may never even read it, or it just gives a lean reading for a split second and you may think its just a hiccup, either way you are playing with blowing it.
I am convinced of it. I mean --how the hell can a oem system safely supply the engine when there is an increase of power by over 50%?
I saw it briefly at Road Atlanta (before my fuel fitting thing). It bogged--it just did not have the power I knew it was suppose to have.
After engine break in--i am getting the Kenne bell boost a pump--not only will it help the pump last longer, it also acts as a voltage regulator specially for the pump. Even if the alternator dies it will still provide the correct voltage. Think about it!
For rezzale.
OD

After engine break in--i am getting the Kenne bell boost a pump--not only will it help the pump last longer, it also acts as a voltage regulator specially for the pump. Even if the alternator dies it will still provide the correct voltage. Think about it!
For rezzale.
OD

Denny,

I fully agree about the fuel system sucking.
I am thinking of going further than changing the stock pump output.
I am actually thinking of replacing the saddle tank with two proper tanks and tee everything, or set an electronically switchable dual tank/reserve system.

Just letting some of you guys know that Phil's 8 from vegas SC AT 4 port dynoed at 258

the fuel cell swap would be one heck of amount of work--you going to a 20B with external pump or something?
easy and cheap--=kb bap! I like e&c :)

Phil at 258!? Woo Hoo--you go old dude!

OD

the fuel cell swap would be one heck of amount of work--you going to a 20B with external pump or something?
OD

No, but I would like my fuel system to be able to fully support that, then I know I have plenty of fuel.
:yesnod:

If I build my fuel system for 600 HP, I will not lean out... EVER.

the thought that an RX8 might not be able to use up fuel fast enough is scary! ahha!

Just letting some of you guys know that Phil's 8 from vegas SC AT 4 port dynoed at 258
Sweet, I bet phill is lovin that.

Guys !!
I just received My body kit :icon_bs:
Hope I can mount it since the end of the month !!!!

Guess what I choose :)
I am a little bit disapointed by the bumper finition... I though I might have been beeter :puke:
It is not a replica but was kind of cheap (450$) insteed of my dreamed bumper...the Feed's !!! but 1300 box a bumper is a pain in the ***

I'll try to paint my all car with some mettalic aspect :rolleyes:

I had my car dino-ed after seven stock at a little get together put on by Jedi54 of the So. Cal Club. I figured that after all this time, money spent and insults over my 4 port AT I would go ahead and ether show the nay sayers right or wrong.

I do think that 258 is a very respectable HP figure for a 4 port. The Pettit s/c worked to perfection. My tuner even had a smile on his face (he rarely smiles).

I was kinda waiting for the graphs to come out to let everyone know but there has been a delay......somthing to do with software compatibility.

jedi is always hogging those dyno sheets forever....

cool JMK...we are waiting for the pics! 8)

jedi is always hogging those dyno sheets forever....

:suspect:

Phil: PM me your email address and I'll email you all 15 of your dyno runs. :)

It's true 247 then 258 HP for Phil's RX8 AT 4 port

I had my car dino-ed after seven stock at a little get together put on by Jedi54 of the So. Cal Club. I figured that after all this time, money spent and insults over my 4 port AT I would go ahead and ether show the nay sayers right or wrong.

I do think that 258 is a very respectable HP figure for a 4 port. The Pettit s/c worked to perfection. My tuner even had a smile on his face (he rarely smiles).

I was kinda waiting for the graphs to come out to let everyone know but there has been a delay......somthing to do with software compatibility.

At what rpm did you reach this peak number? Also, where do you have your redline set at? Great numbers!

At what rpm did you reach this peak number? Also, where do you have your redline set at? Great numbers!
I'll try and post my graph when I get it.

I had my car dino-ed after seven stock at a little get together put on by Jedi54 of the So. Cal Club. I figured that after all this time, money spent and insults over my 4 port AT I would go ahead and ether show the nay sayers right or wrong.

I do think that 258 is a very respectable HP figure for a 4 port. The Pettit s/c worked to perfection. My tuner even had a smile on his face (he rarely smiles).

I was kinda waiting for the graphs to come out to let everyone know but there has been a delay......somthing to do with software compatibility.

Congrats, Phil. Very respectable; must feel very rewarding to you considering all the work you've put into your ride.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/Jedi54/Misc/Phil-Top2.jpg



I am not very good at posting pix or anything else for that matter but here is my attempt to post my graphs.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/Jedi54/Misc/Phil-15.jpg

now thats a goodlooking sheet--notice he was making peak hp at UNDER 8K--i know i know, but what are we making under 8K? Not much more.
Great job Phil--again that is a good looking sheet!
OD

Congrats, Phil. Very respectable; must feel very rewarding to you considering all the work you've put into your ride.

Thank you - It may not be equal to any of yours but considering that mine is a 4 port a/t that most purists have written off.................................

Looks great! We've been limiting MDW's car to 7500 rpm redline. Nice to see what kind of numbers you are making as we progress with his car. And this was basically ~9 psi all the way through the powerband?

Phil, I love looking at that graph!
such a flat torque curve and sooo much power. Nicely done good sir, glad to see all of your hard work paying off.

The question is.......................

What is Phil going to do with that extra 1,000 RPM?

Wow, Phil that is a kickass looking dyno... pretty incredible for a 4 port auto. Nice numbers... it has to be incredibly funny zooming past 6-spd guys at local meets and then telling them they just got passed by a 4-port.

The question is.......................

What is Phil going to do with that extra 1,000 RPM?

make MORE power. :)

Awesome looking dyno runs, Phil! You do the "Bastard stepchildren of RX8Club Club" proud!

The question is.......................

What is Phil going to do with that extra 1,000 RPM?
:suspect: you'll see soon

Wow, Phil that is a kickass looking dyno... pretty incredible for a 4 port auto. Nice numbers... it has to be incredibly funny zooming past 6-spd guys at local meets and then telling them they just got passed by a 4-port.
:crazy: no comment
make MORE power. :)
Working on it

wow,

that tq curve is stunning. :rock:

very nice job!

beers :beer:

:suspect: you'll see soon


:crazy: no comment

Working on it

Way to go Phil. :yesnod:

Next dyno in Jan or Feb when is nice and cool (free ponies). :eyetwitch

Next dyno in Jan or Feb when is nice and cool (free ponies). :eyetwitch
funny you should mention that... :suspect:
stay tuned...

You mean of course [continue to] get tuned. ;)

funny you should mention that... :suspect:
stay tuned...

yesterday I took out my s/c to check everything...
I noticed that the S/C sealing are not that good :(
I Changed my ful injector filter...they were so nasty !!! can't believe that !!!!

I Changed my ful injector filter...they were so nasty !!! can't believe that !!!!

Fuel injector filter?

?????
anyone put a 2009 trans in their car yet?
OD

?????
anyone put a 2009 trans in their car yet?
OD

I hope not to, but I was planning a trip to New Orleans later this year.....


:lol2:

/Seriously
The 09 Transmission is much improved.

looking at the gear ratios etc--it sure seems that it would be a good match with our setup. Sooner or later I will need a trans (x fingers), my trans is quiet but some input shaft rattle in reverse. If I do have too I am going with an 09 (used!)
I am also looking at reloacting the abs system to the intake side of the engine bay. I dont particularly like the clearance at present and it would balance out the look of the engine bay IF this is possible..
ODl

haha OD, you don't ever stop mate!

By the way this is meant as a big positive!

I know man-- i really am sick!
And i am building motor mounts on the side--i am real sick.
this is a hobby right?
OD

One of these will be mine within a few months.. need to see with Cam first because he showed me his 09 engine with s/c and it had a piece of metal on the engine block cut off.. I want to avoid that..

eehh dont get too worried Cam wouldnt be cutting anything important, the are always extra flanges etc, that are used for the castings of engine blocks,,,
Cool sidenote, just talked to Cam today and he was thrilled that he just sold his first 'custom built' engine in Japan, hes always respected and admired Amemiya San and felt honored that someone would come to him about a custom engine when Amemiya was in thier backyard,,,

Not worried about cutting something important, I already saw it's just a useless piece of metal.. just meant for warranty purposes.. ahem.. not that I'd try to take the kit off if the engine blew or anything.. *cough* :p:

hahaahh, funny way to look at ,,,
Imagine the dealer or service rep opening your hood, looking right past the superchager and saying hey I think he cut that piece of metal off,,, lol,,,

My dealer loves the SuperCharger.... they all love it when I role in the garage door and rev it up to turn the engine off,,,,

hahaahh, funny way to look at ,,,
Imagine the dealer or service rep opening your hood, looking right past the superchager and saying hey I think he cut that piece of metal off,,, lol,,,

My dealer loves the SuperCharger.... they all love it when I role in the garage door and rev it up to turn the engine off,,,,


Hey you never know.. :p:

I'd be afraid of them taking it for a spin and crashing it..

hahaahh, funny way to look at ,,,
Imagine the dealer or service rep opening your hood, looking right past the superchager and saying hey I think he cut that piece of metal off,,, lol,,,

My dealer loves the SuperCharger.... they all love it when I role in the garage door and rev it up to turn the engine off,,,,

Mine thinks there is something wrong that makes it whine....
:D:

I just pick up parts, they do not look under my hood.

Does anyone know if Pettit is working on management for SIIs? I'd really like to get one of these things when I get back from the desert.

in b4 search noob.

EDIT: It's being discussed a few posts above me isn't it...

Does anyone know if Pettit is working on management for SIIs? I'd really like to get one of these things when I get back from the desert.

in b4 search noob.

EDIT: It's being discussed a few posts above me isn't it...


Search n00b.

:p:

Seriously though... from one s2 owner to another. Tell me nao.

One of these will be mine within a few months.. need to see with Cam first because he showed me his 09 engine with s/c and it had a piece of metal on the engine block cut off.. I want to avoid that..

When I made the OMP bracket when I was down there last the only trimming that I did was to the a threaded section next to the alternator on the other side of the bracket. I also removed all of the stamped metal that bolts to the top of the engine that holds the OMPs in there stock position.

When I made the OMP bracket when I was down there last the only trimming that I did was to the a threaded section next to the alternator on the other side of the bracket. I also removed all of the stamped metal that bolts to the top of the engine that holds the OMPs in there stock position.


Yea that was pretty much the extent of it, I'm just nit-picking :p:

The "alterations" to the block were superficial.


Seriously though... from one s2 owner to another. Tell me nao.

I haven't asked but next time I go I'll see what's going on.. or maybe I'll go tomorrow after work if you ask nicely :p:

damn all you that live in Pettits back yard,,,

Fuel injector filter?

yes I bought this kit on ebay...quite usefull :Peace:

nice find dude-----go one step further and send your injectors off for cleaning and balancing. Mine was WAY off when i first had them done.
dont forget to added a little grease to the bottom grommetts when you install.
OD

nice find dude-----go one step further and send your injectors off for cleaning and balancing. Mine was WAY off when i first had them done.
dont forget to added a little grease to the bottom grommetts when you install.
OD

Yeah, I didn't do it at first and I had a fuel leak...
so I had to remove everything and I finaly put them back with some grease :)

By the way, where can I found a new belt for my S/C...mine start dying !
I know it was already discussed but the search function is a hell to use !

By the way, where can I found a new belt for my S/C...mine start dying !
I know it was already discussed but the search function is a hell to use !

GatorBack belts by Goodyear.
I use Summit Racing if my local Autozone doesn't have it in stock.
Large crank pulley uses a one inch larger belt than the stock pulley.

I was on Pettit's site the other day to get some contact info, and now on the front pg there are two videos of engines Cam and the crew built for Tapped Racing, This 7 is setting all kinds of records, in the Time Attack UNLIMITED class and talking to Cam, it only puts out about 450whp, but is dominating over far more powerful platforms, like insanly buildt 2JZE's, RDETs' and a super powerful STI boxer,,,
Ahh doesnt it feel good to know that the word Racing in Pettit Racing actually stands for Racing,,,
Take a look,,,
In the first video, Cam said that this car shattered the current track record by well over a second,,,, Awesome,,,,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0e5TOez3vzQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s42I83rKr-g

ill never get rid of my 8 but i have come to really like the porsche968
flame suit on. but i feel better since i said it
OD

is phils dynos flywheel or wheel hp?

wheels!

I thought so, but just checking for sure 8)

Wheels