WELL------THE LIM CAN REMOVED WITHOUT PULLING THE ENGINE!!!!!!!!

tOOK A WHILE BUT MY IDEA WORKED--JUT REMOVE THE APV VALVES
before you try to pull the lim. then the intake comes out from up top --not the bottom.

That is excellent! Good to know.
Those little nuts that hold the valves in would scare me.

Hey fellas, did alot more loggin as I was running around town to measure my water temps,,,

Ambient was 86-89degees

Never say anything over 196 with an average of 183 at speed, only reaching the higher temp sitting in traffic waiting to bypass an accident on the road,,,

Anyone who is thinking about the Pettit secondary rads setup I have an extra floor pan now and it would save ya a couple bucks on the kit, just cover your shipping,,, PM me,,,,

Hey fellas, did alot more loggin as I was running around town to measure my water temps,,,

Ambient was 86-89degees

Never say anything over 196 with an average of 183 at speed, only reaching the higher temp sitting in traffic waiting to bypass an accident on the road,,,

Anyone who is thinking about the Pettit secondary rads setup I have an extra floor pan now and it would save ya a couple bucks on the kit, just cover your shipping,,, PM me,,,,

Does the Pettit mod run in series with the radiator?

yes, it ties in after the thermostat, runs in series, pretty easy install...

a couple more logs of temps,,,
Trim is looking good now, and I tightened up the idler pulley tension and 8lbs is back yahhhhh!!!
Ambient is 83 degrees...
http://h.imagehost.org/0608/new-rads2.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0608/new-rads2)

http://h.imagehost.org/0613/new-rads3.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0613/new-rads3)

http://h.imagehost.org/0506/new-rads4.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0506/new-rads4)

thats it for the rads for now,,, I will post later if ambient temps get really hot to see what affect its having on them until then back to your regularly scheduled program...

dont go there mate!!
i am in the process of getting it all put together now.--lunch time.

little hints i have found so far
1--dont forget to check the rear s.c. mount--i checked the tightness and it was--shall i say loose.:shocking:
putting a double nut on it now like i should have to begin with.
2- two fuel injector rubber rings(the big one) had split ---what?????--:crazy:
3- great time to tidy up vacuum lines--gauges wires etc.
4- my oem check valve going to the vacuum box with all the solenoids--- was almost stopped up----huh? Yep.:Eyecrazy:
replaced with better check valve.
5- those little apv bolts ? They area )(*)&&%^&%#@*_+_(()&&$&## to get back on!!!!!!.:banghead::Eyecrazy::cussing::scared::box ing_sm:balls:
Thank God for medication and my wife.

back to work.
olddragger

One more thing (or two)
Supercharger front pulley to S/C rotor shaft, tighten the bolt tight. (Impact wrench?)
Belt dressing seems to stop belt slippage too.
You should be able to barely twist the S/C belt 90 degrees with the thumb and index fingers on the drivers side of the belt run, halfway between the pulleys.
Definitely check those fuel injector seals for boost leakage. (this is where a water methanol kit helps, the pink "Boost-Juice" stains any leakage areas):beer05:

well progress:
Putting the lim back on was a little challage-----:)
Believe it or not one of the apv tiny "bolts" broke!!!!!!! (*&(&^%$@##@))_%^%!!!!!!
I was just tightening it with a 1/4 drive socket and a very small handle with 2 fingers close to the head of the rachet----and the damn thing broke.
You ever try to remove a broke bolt that small before? And dont say pull that arm --the set allen head strew on the side was put in with block filler.
Anyway --got her done and got the intake on, with the phenolic gasket--header on etc etc.

Then I found out I was missing one of the injectors seal engine side ---that litte round rubber thing! Cant find it any where(no it is not in the ports:) l! I guess it turned into a dryer sock.
Mazda ordering and they will be here tomorrow.
I insulated the fuel rail (inside of the rail looked really clean--really clean--i was impressed)
and my daugher is
GOING TO GET A LONGER BELT LOL!
You were absolutely right!!
Pulley is on--injectors placed (triple checked the connectors)
So most of it is done--i have some pics of some of the stuff that i will post when i have the time.
olddragger

What spark plugs are you guys running with the sc? I'm still on oem trailing and leading plugs.

oem....

~
Then I found out I was missing one of the injectors seal engine side ---that litte round rubber thing! Cant find it any where(no it is not in the ports:) l! I guess it turned into a dryer sock.



I predict you will find it when and where you least want to find it. :wallbash:
(That's the way it always works for me. :tear: )

oem....

Thanks. How much boost can oem handle? No need to go to colder ones?

Also the black cap for the inter cooler reservoir broke, the top just popped off when tightening it. Anyone know who makes it and where I can get it? Thanks

its a non pressurized system just glue it up until you can get one.
OD

its a non pressurized system just glue it up until you can get one.
OD

yup did that, used duct tape :)
Just need to know where I can find that cap. Stopped by a couple autoparts stores and no one has it.

Thanks. How much boost can oem handle? No need to go to colder ones?

Also the black cap for the inter cooler reservoir broke, the top just popped off when tightening it. Anyone know who makes it and where I can get it? Thanks

LOL....


It's for a riding lawn mower, but this cap fits the coolant for the inter cooler good (http://tewarehouse.com/7-07565;jsessionid=0a0107431f43de4e5de29fbb4377b4ab9 debaf625845.e3eTaxiPc3mTe34Pa38Ta38Lc3z0)


:)

I spoke with tech support at Agency Power about their Dual-Resonated Mid Pipe; it fits with my stock frame braces. (unlike Mazsport)
Ordered it today. (I know, I should have waited till Racing Beat starts selling with no waiting...)

yeah for now I have two RP supercats one which Swoope gave me and I gutted it last night, fun times, but it will go on this weekend, I too am waiting for RBs dual res pipe...

yeah for now I have two RP supercats one which Swoope gave me and I gutted it last night, fun times, but it will go on this weekend, I too am waiting for RBs dual res pipe...

If RB had it to ship today.....
I am tired of my midpipe fitting badly, and now have blown exhaust gaskets on both ends of the midpipe. (again)

I now sound like a ricer with a coffee can muffler. :banghead:

The good news is, I am making great boost levels again.....

i too have blown exhaust gaskets with the mazsport midpipe--- i WILL fix it!
Sooner or later--mine doesnt sound too bad.
When she gets back on the road again i mean.
why in the heck is the back rotor upper intake bolt so damn hard to get too!

olddragger

WELL------THE LIM CAN REMOVED WITHOUT PULLING THE ENGINE!!!!!!!!
tOOK A WHILE BUT MY IDEA WORKED--JUT REMOVE THE APV VALVES
before you try to pull the lim. then the intake comes out from up top --not the bottom.
Good job man!
Anything else special that you had to do in order to get that out?
Did you have to remove the motor mounts to shift the engine over more?

Believe it or not one of the apv tiny "bolts" broke!!!!!!!
Oh I believe it... I broke one of those bolts too.
I found a shoulder bolt through McMaster Carr that has almost the exact same dimensions.
I plan on ordering it soon so hopefully it fits well without rubbing against the gasket/plate.

Those stupid bolts are basically glued on...so its no surprise they break coming off....

For me, it broke while installing them.
Those things need to be tightened with care.
Luckily I was able to drill it out of the connecting arm without damaging the threads... didn't even need to tap it.
But that screw on the side of the manifold so the arm slides out was a PITA and I had to heat it up before I could turn it.

LOL....


It's for a riding lawn mower, but this cap fits the coolant for the inter cooler good (http://tewarehouse.com/7-07565;jsessionid=0a0107431f43de4e5de29fbb4377b4ab9 debaf625845.e3eTaxiPc3mTe34Pa38Ta38Lc3z0)


:)

I spoke with tech support at Agency Power about their Dual-Resonated Mid Pipe; it fits with my stock frame braces. (unlike Mazsport)
Ordered it today. (I know, I should have waited till Racing Beat starts selling with no waiting...)
don't expect that midpipe to be quiet ;)

Oh I believe it... I broke one of those bolts two.
.

You broke two bolts once or one bolt twice ?

You broke two bolts once or one bolt twice ?

LOL... I meant to say "too", not "two"
I'll fix it.
I broke one of those bolts TOO ;) :)

LOL - well fixed sir

macius, my peak boost has been around 8.2 lbs if i recall.....

peak airflow so far 337 g/s

don't expect that midpipe to be quiet ;)

It will be more quite than my car is now. :yelrotflm

percys dead soft aluminum gaskets will fix the leak--but i have burned them out. I dont think i retorqued after the install--so prob my fault.
Car will be running tonight -- i prob will regret reusing the uim gaskets and not making new ones. I did use the "make your own gasket silicine stuff" that I have had really good results from. Put a thin coat on top of them. x fingers.


To remove the lim you:
1- have to remove the passenger side motor mount
2- remove header (optional but it sure makes thing easier)
3- remove all of the lim perephies-- injectors, fuel rail, vacuum lines etc
4- uim has to come off
5- remove all lim bolts, jacking the engine up or down as required, remove the gasket bolts--there are 3
6-- carefully use the engine jack to make room so the apv bolts can be reached
7- know how to cuss well as those bolts are a bitch to get too.
8- remove the apv motor
9- remove the front apv bolt 1st--its easier to get to-- from the top--its a tight space and trying to get a socket in there (1/4 inch size 7 mm) can be a challange--dont give up.
It may reduce time to get the smallest /shortest 7 mm socket and handle you can find--mine was a little bigger than what I would have liked.
10- the rear apv bolt has to be removed from the bottom ---while you are on your back. Its tight, but a little secret is to drop the front part of the intake down some and that will give you more space in the rear as that top intake runner will not bind on you so bad.
11-- remove the intake from up top
12-- pat yourself on the back and apologize to the neighbors for the language.
13--then removed the apv's--they are dirty---guess what? The rear one doesnt want to come out--no room!! Holey crap!!
No--just lower the engine down as low as you can --being very careful as you dont want to put too much tension on anything---then the apv will have room to come out.
yabba dabba doo---its done!!

14-- now in mounting the intake---God help you. You really have to have a fine feel for when that apv bolt is in the right spot of the arm. Use the apv motor gear on the outside of the intake to move the arm while feeling for that little bitty depression and once you have it started for Gods sake DONT break it! You will think it is not tight because the arm moves up and down --or rolling kind of movement and back and forth) and you are doing a blind install. Its easy to think it is not tight.
Other than that---its just work. I did it in my backyard with 2 jack russells for help.
I think I may be the 1st idiot to do this?
olddragger

Good job olddragger!
Now if you had to do this again, knowing what you know now, would you do this method again or just remove the tranny and pull the whole engine out?

Other than that---its just work. I did it in my backyard with 2 jack russells for help.
I think I may be the 1st idiot to do this?
olddragger

I'm really impressed, Denny. I was jacked just getting to the injector rail:lol2: Let me recommend a book to you - "The Navy Chief's Guide to Creative Expletives-Using the Dark Side to Verbally Realize Your Destiny". I know it's been helpful to me.

I've been following the actual process so raptly, I realized I didn't know one thing:

Why in the hell did you do this anyway? Also, if I try this, will my two boston terriers be the equivalent of two jack russells, or should I enlist the neighbors pit terrier as well?

Way to go Denny. I cant wait to hear how that new intake works, im betting very good. You are the man OD.

Other than that---its just work. I did it in my backyard with 2 jack russells for help.
I think I may be the 1st idiot to do this?
olddragger


I have had that kind of help, threatened to take my sisters dogs to a local restaurant afterward. :eek:
My exhaust leak turned out to be the Mazsport flat one between the manifold and the midpipe.

I now have an Agency Power dual resonated midpipe installed, it uses the stock gaskets.
My rear stock gasket was kinda flakey after being on a shelf in the shed for a year, and now it leaks a little.
At least it leaks from a known place now, and from the back.
New exhaust doughnut comes next weekend.
Ricey till then... :evil_laug

yep i would do it again--it would be much easier now. I think the intake mods are worth while if you are FI'ed.

Moon baby---miss having you around dude--hope every thing is good. buy a good coat before winter.
Back to work on the trike?
I fired that mother up this evening and Moon I think you are right --there is something there.
My start up a/f's after the car has been without a battery for a couple of days has NEVER been in the 16's!!!! Computer adjusted after just a little while.
Lets not forget the phenolic gasket and how i vented the intake and heat shielded the fuel rail and gas line--it all adds up.
i will be getting some efi data tomorrow.
my motor mount mod seems to be working right now--harder stress needs to be placed on them before i say --its good.
olddragger
The "big boy" pulley sure make the s.c. whine more doesnt it? :) Like it!

ok 1st open road this a.m.
I did not open the apv's--to much traffic.
a/f's have settled down and of coarse they are a tad richer with the bigger injectors.
Car pulls STRONG:):evil_laug
even just off idle-- the increased tq was what i noticed first
My lim is much cooler after driving.
It cranks better---?? I mean like 1/2 of an engine turn. Dont know where that came from --maybe the absence of the jet air nozzles?

I am going to get into trouble with this dang thing!!!!:boink:
olddragger

ok was driving the car a little and opened her up a little --testing out the secondaries---right?
well the a/f's are off---still in the 13's by my innovate--efi data to be done tonight to confirm.
SO i put a screen on the maf tube and I did find a little loose maf pipe clamp.
kind of strange--if i was going uphill the a/f's would fall right into the 12's like they should.
i was at more than 50% throttle but not at wot.
hmmmm---dang it.
OD

13s are ok at 100-110% load - you need to know your loads to be sure if you are lean or not

ok 1st open road this a.m.
I did not open the apv's--to much traffic.
a/f's have settled down and of coarse they are a tad richer with the bigger injectors.
Car pulls STRONG:):evil_laug
even just off idle-- the increased tq was what i noticed first
My lim is much cooler after driving.
It cranks better---?? I mean like 1/2 of an engine turn. Dont know where that came from --maybe the absence of the jet air nozzles?

I am going to get into trouble with this dang thing!!!!:boink:
olddragger

You mentioned more torque, what boost do you get at around 2500?
I get about 5 to 6 PSI at 2500, but only get around 12 to 13 at 8500.

If you have not stepped up a methanol nozzle, now is the time.
I have a Snow 175 after the blower and another 60 on the blower intake.
It is nice seeing water condense on the outside of the blower intake, and still being able to lay your hand on the boost side upper intake after a run...

no boost gauge-- need to get one--i just use a vacuum boost reader when i want to know
so far intake temps are nice--but havent pushed her. about to go out now for some data collection.
OD.

no boost gauge-- need to get one--i just use a vacuum boost reader when i want to know
so far intake temps are nice--but havent pushed her. about to go out now for some data collection.
OD.

Cam has some nice mechanical ones, but I went with the digital model from AEM.
(I went for the "bling")
I must say, there is something to be said for the simple mechanical vacuum line type boost gauge; I suspect they are more accurate than the digital ones.


Oh, and another heads up to all:
Clean your battery terminals.
My car was acting weird, strange trims, funky idle sometimes, then fine.
Today, it would not start.
My terminals were badly muckered up with some kind of white powered stuff.
I removed them and cleaned them and then the car started fine; to my amazement, the other weird stuff stopped to.
I put new little felt pads made for batteries and coated the terminals with Vaseline.

I guess the injectors, ECU and coils were not getting a valid ground.
:icon_no2:

Update: The stereo's capacitors probably contributed; 1.2 KW worth of amps....

OK--i have data from an efi drive and I have questions, Something is not right.
Now my a/f's seem to be fine per efi 14-13's 12's and a low off 11.1
my idle gram per second is 6.5 or so (it was about the same before)
Now here is my ?
I am showing about the same gms/sec and load now as i was with the small pulley??
small pulley i have shown 305 at approx 7.5 K in 4th gear(cant remember the load)
recent small pulley data shown a 270g/sec load of 142 in 3nd gear@7K
Just now
idle about the same
max maf g/sec ---get this---272 grams with load of 151 and this is at 7.2K. this is in 2nd gear (traffic)
now the car "feels" stronger not like what I thought it would--but strong.
so i check for all kinds of stuff i guess---air leaks -- i think i did hear a small one at 4K or so.
I wonder if my apv's are opening?
WTF?
scratch head and start trouble shooting i guess. but it is going to be a big something to make up the difference between my readings and others.
olddragger

Not trying to nit pick you, but if you changed belts and pulleys, did you verify the tension on the new belt after some driving to be sure you don't have any slack? Just thinking of something really basic before you start beating your head here...

air filter to small again?

and btw, great job on the lim how to!

beers :beer:

Car pulls STRONG:):evil_laug
even just off idle-- the increased tq was what i noticed first

I am going to get into trouble with this dang thing!!!!:boink:
olddragger

Amen to that!!:FIREdevil

Just picked up something that's going to keep Georgia on my mind. 81 in a 55, banging head on table.

arf Moon. Tickets FTL. I'm fighting a dodgy one in the UK too.

Oldragger, you installed a new bigger belt, so I assume its either not tensioned or has stretched a little with heat etc after the install and needs re-tensioning?

Good luck!

Have you validated if your MAF will read beyond 305 g/s? Stock calibration is 362.375 g/s at 4.69 V, so one would think so.

Cheers,
Hymee.

its the pettit's flash and unchanged since the bigger pulley install. So maf is not scaled.
? does the apv motor self center? I have a quote "newer" apv motor that i put on it and maybe it is not working?
I removed it this a.m. and the intake apv gear moves very easy--guess this pm i will do the stethoscope test + if need too, wthe old refrige icemaker waterline check on it. Wife's birthday is getting in the way-----what honey?! Yes mam!
Sigh:)
Just have work to do thats all.
olddragger

Hey Moon --been there done that---probably on interstate 75?
OD

OK--i have data from an efi drive and I have questions, Something is not right.
Now my a/f's seem to be fine per efi 14-13's 12's and a low off 11.1



Bad news, the "11.1" is as low as the EFI Dude goes, you probably see a flat line at that reading.
The Mazda O2 sensor is either NOT a wide band or the RX8 ECU drops everything under about 11.1. (or 11.2 in my case)

BTW: What 2 injectors did you swap; the center or the outside ones? (I assume it was on the fuel rail with 4 injectors)

Here you can see the flat bottom "cut-off" at 11.2 on my car.
Just because the data capture will not go lower, doesn't mean the car's A/F ratio stops at 11.2, I regularly go to 10.0


:cussing:

how do you post a screen shot from the efi dude?
I did find that my secondary's were not opening---i had a loose connection in the ssv switch. Very loose connection. I do take it that they wont open without it hooked up.
has a little more kick right now:)--now to tighten the belt a little? And check boost. Step by step:scratchhe:Wconfused

i swapped the outside injectors with Cams.

its not too much fuel because i dont get into the 11's until a little after 7K?

Sure is a puzzle to me--cant be my lim--no way.
i will settle for a 325g/sec, a load of 165 at 90F and 7.8K.?
Any suggestions?
olddragger

i m just wondering if the pettit kit is already CARB legal by now. Is it?

It was asked if the mileage was better on my 09. 320 miles 14 gallons. Around 27 mpg. Its been a while, what's the average?

how do you post a screen shot from the efi dude?


I open the EFI Dude software full screen, then hold the "ALT" key and press "PRTSC"
This copies the print screen to memory. Next open Photoshop or MS-Paint and paste the capture into a new document. Save the new document as a jpeg.

ALT - Prnt-SC = Capture the image of the active window.
Prnt-SC (no ALT key) Capture image of the entire desktop.

It was asked if the mileage was better on my 09. 320 miles 14 gallons. Around 27 mpg. Its been a while, what's the average?

Moon, when is the blower going on?

/You know you want it. :wiggle:

All great things come with time.

IF my apvs are not opening....dont really know yet. I have been thinking about this a little.
APVS are good only at very high rpms and since I dont like going over 7.5 K --I may leave them closed?
i swear the maf readings i am getting does not portray how the car is running.
She will break the rear tires loose in 2nd gear above 4.5 k(oem size tires) now that i have the secondaries worked out. SOrt--sort--sort-sorting things out.

ANyone running with apvs closed?
olddragger

IF my apvs are not opening....dont really know yet. I have been thinking about this a little.
APVS are good only at very high rpms and since I dont like going over 7.5 K --I may leave them closed?
i swear the maf readings i am getting does not portray how the car is running.
She will break the rear tires loose in 2nd gear above 4.5 k(oem size tires) now that i have the secondaries worked out. SOrt--sort--sort-sorting things out.

ANyone running with apvs closed?
olddragger

If you don't open the APVs, you are not using the larger injectors, are you?
As for the MAF reading, I suspect you are getting that reading below 7.5?
My huge MAF readings are at 8500 or 9K.

Try more water, less methanol in the injection mix, if you are running rich.

/There is always nitromethane to lean it out some.....
LOL (don't do that, or do very little)

:SHOCKED:

rote8 i will post an efi dude screen shot tonight---thanks for the info of how to do that.

The larger injectors supply the secondaries --not the apvs? Least that is what I am thinking. A/f's seem fine.
I have been looking at some that have chosen to keep the apvs closed and it was surprising.

Found a little vacuum leak(on one of the lim vacuum ports) and retightened the belt as it was a little loose. Does seem to run stronger now--i will be doing more efi stuff and boost level this w/e(at work now --on "break")
Dang at this rate i am going to have to buy more orange glow hand cleaner.
olddragger

i m just wondering if the pettit kit is already CARB legal by now. Is it?

I doubt it but you need to contact Pettit Racing and ask. Due to the hoops that you have to jump thru and the payments required it is not economical for most companies to certify CARB.

i have a question about the ordering process. i was wanting to order the s/c kit but they said that the product run is in Sept and Oct. am i able to wait untill then b4 i get it or do i have to order it before the product run inorder for me to get the s/c in Sept/Oct???

i have a question about the ordering process. i was wanting to order the s/c kit but they said that the product run is in Sept and Oct. am i able to wait untill then b4 i get it or do i have to order it before the product run inorder for me to get the s/c in Sept/Oct???
Generally you would order before the product run to reserve yours but you best contact Cam at www.pettitracing.com (http://www.pettitracing.com). It usually takes a couple of days for them to get back to you.

I do not know if it is the high temps of the engin or the collant pression...
but my supercharger coolant cap crackle all around.:tear:

got to order a new one !! is there a way to get a stronger one ?!

I do not know if it is the high temps of the engin or the collant pression...
but my supercharger coolant cap crackle all around.:tear:

got to order a new one !! is there a way to get a stronger one ?!

on the reservoir tank? same thing happened to me. See a few pages back, there's a link to a fuel cap that will fit.

Moon, when is the blower going on?

/You know you want it. :wiggle:

The Pettit kit isn't available for the 09 RX-8, is it? They changed enough under the hood that none of the FI kits work on the Series II "out-of-the-box," as far as I know.

Moons building/adapting the kit to the 09, he has an 09 now and cant wait...

ok i am getting there---maf today 320 at 7.7 K and a load of 161 !!
a/f looking good.
Also I am not seeing the spots on the efi data screen that shows the intake valves opening---the little "dips".
Rote that alt prsc trick doesnt work for me.
I will try to figure out how to post.
OD

I do not know if it is the high temps of the engin or the collant pression...
but my supercharger coolant cap crackle all around.:tear:

got to order a new one !! is there a way to get a stronger one ?!

on the reservoir tank? same thing happened to me. See a few pages back, there's a link to a fuel cap that will fit.

John Deere to the rescue :lol:

I'm going to fab up a relocation bracket to relocate the omps. They only need to move over an inch or so along with minor mods.

think man THINK---THE 09'S AWAIT------:o
try to post some pics here.
1st pic is off my old intake upper throat--you can see the difference between this one and the one i did--see old oic already posted)
2- pic shows the two side by side--remember i also took the jet air system out
3 pic-- i didnt have anything better to do and liked playing with shiny stuff--so insulated fuel rail as a result
4th--that there is a true phenolic lim gasket---dont ask me>>>>>
5th- thats a pic of my center primary ports --pic doesnt do it justice--they were clean.
olddragger

mat
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142751&stc=1&d=12http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142752&stc=1&d=1248http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142753&stc=1&d=12484http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142754&stc=1&d=12484823708237048237048482370http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142755&stc=1&d=1248482370
od

nice work OD. What will you do about the MAF scale as our MAF only goes to 350?

Slow but steady progress for the win.

For me it seems to be the MAF (+ the tuning issues it creates) that is the next block for progress to a true "stage III". Can you buy an after market "higher flow MAF" with better granularity? And then would that entail an entirely new map to be written?

Or What? PS Remember everyone..I know nothing!

i am not worried about the maf because i am not interested in going over 8K and most of the time 7.5 K, No need--maybe i can turn it into a diesel?
If other are then a rescale will be needed--I guess.
WHat I really am thinking about now is MAYBE not using the apv's
Mine are working--but since they dont open until a little after 7K then why the hell do I want to bother? And I think it was Brettus that played with this a little and showed good improvement in the rpm range i want.
Yep--sorting it out is the key as every car responds a little different.
Really pleased so far. This sum-bitch loves 3 and 4th gear--woo hoo:)
Need better motormounts that keep the break-a-way safety feature intact.

I wonder if my intake work is what took care of the usual secondary and apv "dips" that show on the data screens?

Where does a one legged girl work?-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
at-- I-Hop-- Lol
olddragger

anybody have these yet? look good from what i can tell--which is not much.
http://www.advancespeedshop.com/images/MAZ-20001.JPG
oD

I think Denny and I talked about the charge pump previously but a search did not turn up the posts.

My charge pump has bitten the dust and I am wondering if any one knows what pump can be substituted for the stock one? I would prefer not having to wait several days while I get shipped one. It does not seem to be a pressure pump just a circulator so there may be several alternatives.

i am not worried about the maf because i am not interested in going over 8K and most of the time 7.5 K, No need--maybe i can turn it into a diesel?
If other are then a rescale will be needed--I guess.
WHat I really am thinking about now is MAYBE not using the apv's
Mine are working--but since they dont open until a little after 7K then why the hell do I want to bother? And I think it was Brettus that played with this a little and showed good improvement in the rpm range i want.

olddragger

you still want the apvs to open - they make a big difference in the 6500-8000rpm range . On the track you are going to be in that range a LOT . The stuff I did showed some gains in messing with the timing of the apvs in a FI application ....

My charge pump has bitten the dust.


Sorry, what IS a "charge pump"?:icon5:

aw intercooler pump----is a bosch unit.. Maybe you could find one at a boat store --bilge pump may work?
or if anyone has one for the ford lightening or the s.c.ed mustangs--they will work.
OD

It was asked if the mileage was better on my 09. 320 miles 14 gallons. Around 27 mpg. Its been a while, what's the average?

That's definitely better, I think most people get 18-24 with Cobb tuning.
I got 21 mpg mixed city and highway. Without the Cobb but with some mods including ignition I get 18.9 mixed.

Has anyone done an electric water pump drive?
I was thinking a non rpm based coolant supply may help our 9K rpm bursts.

anybody have these yet? look good from what i can tell--which is not much.
http://www.advancespeedshop.com/images/MAZ-20001.JPG
oD

Those are the headers that are on Ebay right? They look exactly like them, and I think they were "buy it now" for $185. I don't know if trust things that are that cheap and on ebay:suspect:

Hey guys side note,,, My new bumper,,, the first in the country,,,,
And the only one like it in the world due to my customization of it,,,

http://a.imagehost.org/0379/CIMG1900.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0379/CIMG1900)

http://a.imagehost.org/0137/CIMG1901.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0137/CIMG1901)

http://a.imagehost.org/0847/CIMG1902.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0847/CIMG1902)

It was asked if the mileage was better on my 09. 320 miles 14 gallons. Around 27 mpg. Its been a while, what's the average?

Im not even sure you have a RX8 at this point.

is that the R3 one modified?

it corky and i like wht you did with the grill and lip---really sweet---cant wait until you do your ca thing with it--then i will absolutely drool.

These headers are on e bay but so are RB's and exoticspeeds! Titrex is an established company --i like the longer collector and the pipes seem bigger?

anyway i have been working on motor mounts--see my thread. Found some things.

Oh the ewp-- we discussed that 2 yrs ago--i really like the concept--but it appears that it is not a workable idea----yet.
olddragger

Hey guys side note,,, My new bumper,,, the first in the country,,,,
And the only one like it in the world due to my customization of it,,,

http://a.imagehost.org/0379/CIMG1900.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0379/CIMG1900)

http://a.imagehost.org/0137/CIMG1901.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0137/CIMG1901)

http://a.imagehost.org/0847/CIMG1902.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0847/CIMG1902)
Nice lines, hidden fog lights........Can't help it but I like the one best that is #D in your other thread. I even have a set of the 09 fogs on order because of it.

Dont worry about it Phil, I didnt make this one,,, Its the AutoExe,,, Now I have a spare bumper to play with to make the master for the bumper Ive designed....
Ill be starting that project soon :yesnod::yesnod::yesnod:.... Keep the gogs they will be compatible,,,

The Volks go nicely with the color of the car. But I just want your seats! I think they are $2000 each!!!

Thanks,,,
With all hardware(rails, sliders) it came to $1800 a piece...
However I did have to modify the bracket the build is in the Aftermarket seats that fit in the RX8 thread,,, I got alot of compliments on that,,, as far as I know its the only Recaro Sportster in an 8...

[QUOTE=Rotr8;3135831]
And the only one like it in the world due to my customization of it,,,


http://a.imagehost.org/0137/CIMG1901.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0137/CIMG1901)

[QUOTE]

I used not to like this bumper...but those picts rocks :Peace:

but what did you change exactly ? the fog lights ?
waiting to see if we can mount this one without sides skirts ...

thanks JMKuco, heres the build thread with the mods I did and the PS's I did of how I wanted it to look... http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=173837

rotr8, that's sex, dude. just gorgeous.

well--i guess i will have the honor of being the first petti rx8 on road atlanta--going w/e of 8/8 with nasa.
i dont think i am going to hold it open on that long back straight--i was hitting over 120mph with out the s.c and i am sure now this would be a 140+ spot for me. i really dont want that plus having to brake down to about 70 in a short distance adds to it.
try to get some video.
olddragger

cmon you know you wanna push that big pulley ,,,:evil_laug:evil_laug:evil_laug

well--i guess i will have the honor of being the first petti rx8 on road atlanta--going w/e of 8/8 with nasa.
i dont think i am going to hold it open on that long back straight--i was hitting over 120mph with out the s.c and i am sure now this would be a 140+ spot for me. i really dont want that plus having to brake down to about 70 in a short distance adds to it.
try to get some video.
olddragger

sissy boy! :lol:

we missed you sat.. good day.

i have a bunch of questions for you . i will ask one here. when you took off the lower intake you left the valves in?

and btw, at lill talladega i was that guy. 4 wheels off to the inside of 1! it happened very slow. :)

keep up the great work denny. glad to see you guys getting along now.

beers :beer:

I really don't mean to sound like a dick but....well....here we go....


i dont think i am going to hold it open on that long back straight--i was hitting over 120mph with out the s.c and i am sure now this would be a 140+ spot for me. i really dont want that ...

olddragger

then what was the point?

The important part of Denny's statment happens to the part you left out,,, the braking zone is why Denny is siding with caution,,,

The important part of Denny's statment happens to the part you left out,,, the braking zone is why Denny is siding with caution,,,

sounds like turn 1, 5(downhill no less), and Canada at Road America. i still fail to see the big deal.

:dunno:I dont see why your really worried about it,,,

:dunno:I dont see why your really worried about it,,,

All I did was ask what was the point of doing all the work to ad all the power and not use it. Not sure what else you are reading into it?

not everything is about seeing what your top speed is, thats all,,,

hehe I'm sure one or 2 140+ runs would be OK, then back off and preserve brakes etc....

But 1 or 2 for research is justified, hehe 8)

Mind you driver = decider!

Swoope --yep left apvs in until lim was off then i pulled them.
respect now i believe--both ways
little t eats things up--family stuff . wish you could be at RA dude. This one is going to be good--even the temps are suppose to be in the 80's!

top speed discussion---world starts to change after 120. My main point is that I am driving the car home and there comes a point in which thats enough:)
example--if i am already at 140 and still have some acceleration room left(which i suspect i will) then I am going to back off because i have never entered the tight braking zone coming up at that speed before. Just as i have had to learn to drive this car all over after getting boost on it, i am going to have to learn to drive this track again at higher speeds and having much harder acceleration. Its wise to be cautious at speeds over 120. Things happen really fast and road atlanta doesnt have good run off. You either hit something , you sink petty good, or you are beside a bunch of old tires that are full of rattlesnakes.

Increased power is good for all the track not just the straights. i am looking forward not having to shift as much.

I have the big pulley and injectors now dude! woo--hoo. I would say it did help a little:)
Also have poly MM on--gave me more "snap" for sure.
olddragger

blowing header collector gaskets--has anyone tried the "header buddy"?

GUYS GO TO THE SYNTHETIC OIL DISCUSSION AND SEE MY LAST POSTS--I AM SOLD ON DIESEL OIL FOR OUR CARS.
olddragger

Increased power is good for all the track not just the straights. i am looking forward not having to shift as much.

olddragger

Interesting you should say that - I found I was shifting way MORE after going FI .
That is because I was shifting earlier in the rev range . On a long straight I would reach 6th gear vs wound out to 9000rpm in 4th when NA .

Interesting you should say that - I found I was shifting way MORE after going FI .
That is because I was shifting earlier in the rev range . On a long straight I would reach 6th gear vs wound out to 9000rpm in 4th when NA .

Hitting a higher speed faster so needing those taller gears more often! Thats the trouble with 130 more hp...

there is one track i run Roebling Road in Savanna Ga in which the only time i have to shift in when i come out of the last turn before the long straight --come out of 4th to 5th and short shift to 6th. then back to 4th on a double apex turn # 1 then its 4th gear all the way through.
At Road Atlanta --this coming w/e will be my 1st time since install, but i believe i will only have to shift coming out of turn 7 (in third) to 4th 5th and 6trh on the long back straight-- to 3nd or 4th for turn 10 then to 4th( if needed) coming down the hill to turn 12 and that will be it. we will see

Every shift takes time away and upsets the braking and chassis balance.
besides i am lazy.
od

Sounds like its time for a 6 port Auto then lol:lol::lol::lol:

hehe--dont think so--maybe twin clutch!!
OD

You don't need anything near a twin clutch

A carbon/kevlar disc with a good PP will be lots for 350ish RWHP

Have a twin on a R32 Skyline..and that thing is a beatch to drive...especially if the booster fails

Hi Guys !!

I am looking for a knight sport front bumper dealer ?!
Does anyone know a website where I can go ?

Thanks :)

Japanparts.com they do monthly group buys as a vendor here,,,

...the car I just bought has an OBX header, and I'm getting a CEL, bank 1 O2 sensor.
The sensor is installed in one of the three header pipes, not in a common collector. I noticed the RE-Amemiya header is the same way. Is this throwing of the O2 readings? I'm getting ridiculously/impossibly lean readings on the COBB of up to 20:1 at cruise, and I know that can't be right.

...the car I just bought has an OBX header, and I'm getting a CEL, bank 1 O2 sensor.
The sensor is installed in one of the three header pipes, not in a common collector. I noticed the RE-Amemiya header is the same way. Is this throwing of the O2 readings? I'm getting ridiculously/impossibly lean readings on the COBB of up to 20:1 at cruise, and I know that can't be right.

I have gotten 17 to 1 at cruise, while pulling 22 inches of vacuum.

22 at cruise when you let off the throttle!!
i ran the header for a little while--didnt like it. np with it--just didnt care for it.
highest i get on a cruise is a 14.6 or 7
OD

22 at cruise when you let off the throttle!!
i ran the header for a little while--didnt like it. np with it--just didnt care for it.
highest i get on a cruise is a 14.6 or 7
OD

Uh, I get 28 inches of vacuum when letting off the throttle. :ylsuper:

im talking about the a/f's !
OD

Hey Rote8, next time your feeling frisky about building a CAI, look here for piping,,, I forgot about it the last time you mentioned it http://www.turbohoses.com/metal_piping.htm I had this bookmarked under my old MR2 links,,,

QUOTE=Rotr8;3147598]Sounds like its time for a 6 port Auto then lol:lol::lol::lol:[/QUOTE]

That's funny, I'm tacking at 3k at 90 and getting great mileage.

I didnt say there was anything wrong with a 6p-auto just Denny didnt feel like shiftin as much,,,

im talking about the a/f's !
OD

Yeah, and I think that (17 to 1) has to be the reason for the huge long term trims I have.
I may want to step up the P-1 or P-2 injectors slightly. :suspect:

after running my "custom" lower intake for a little while--i think i can say that something happened. The dips when the ssv and apv's open-----all but gone---seriously---at least by the efi dude they are. Power? I dont know as I added the bigger pulley at the same time.
Will be data collecting at Road Atlanta this coming w/e.

Get this and it is the 1st time happening with me-----my LTFT's----are at 0 --thats zero.
Thats got to be good.

phenolic gasket did lower the lim intake surface temp by about 10 degrees.
Insulating the fuel rail has made a LOT of temp difference--before easily to get at 140F --now they are just a little warm--that has to be good?

i went a different route with the intake and just supplied coald air to the pettit's oridginal position.
So far so good --temps seem fine--air filter just at about ambient temp.

now if I can just solve this mazsport midpipe gasket between it and the header--all will be good-- i may even then vacuum the interior.
olddragger

more pics of what you did!

now if I can just solve this mazsport midpipe gasket between it and the header--all will be good-- i may even then vacuum the interior.
olddragger

Have you tried the Fluid Motorsports spacers?

I think your midpipe is too short!
Aluminum spacer 1/4 inch thick, needs a gasket both sides, the spacer makes the pipe fit the space better. (The Mazsport pipe's a little short on some cars, leading to blown exhaust gaskets)
https://www.fluidmotorsports.com/p-93-exhaust.aspx

They have them for the front and rear, and you will also need 2 gaskets on either end of the pipe.
(2 gaskets and a spacer in the front; 2 gaskets and a spacer in the rear)

I have gotten 17 to 1 at cruise, while pulling 22 inches of vacuum.

The question I have is how accurate is that front O2 sensor if it's only reading the exhaust from one port? The sensor is placed in only one section of pipe, the one that evacuates the rearmost port. I'm missing something, I know it; seems to obvious to be wrong, but other headers feed all three ports into a collector and the O2 sensor fits in that collector.

The question I have is how accurate is that front O2 sensor if it's only reading the exhaust from one port? The sensor is placed in only one section of pipe, the one that evacuates the rearmost port. I'm missing something, I know it; seems to obvious to be wrong, but other headers feed all three ports into a collector and the O2 sensor fits in that collector.

I have the stock manifold, my AEM sensor is in the AP midpipe rear position.

the obx header o2 position is Ok--it will give you accurate readings--it all mixes sooner than you think.

i was able to make a exhaust collector gasket out of a piece of home depo aluminum sheet that cradles the oem round gasket. took a hammer and chisel to do this. I will see how long it lasts.
midpipe is not too short. Motor moving too much---at least it was:)
OD

cafornia--you mean what i did to the intake?

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142752&d=1248482370
all the stuff i did are somewhere in here

what i did to the lim--was
1--completely sealed the vdi and smoothed out all ridges ext in the top part of the intake barrel, removed the outside vdi plate and made it all smooth.
2- removed the jet air tubes from the primary ports
3- clean the heck out of everything
4- removes some small casting ridges/spots in the intake runners
5- cut some of the blank casting spaces out of the intake to ventilate it some
6- polished it
7- installed a true phenolic gasket (reduced temps of the lim body--it did
8- heat wrapped the fuel rail.
all this while the engine was still in the car---yea baby!
olddragger

the obx header o2 position is Ok--it will give you accurate readings--it all mixes sooner than you think.
OD

Denny, I'll be the first to admit that I don't know everything, but based on the setup of the header, there's no way gases from the front or mid ports can mix with the rear port exhaust effectively. I'm told that the OBX has a cup arrangement that the sensor sits in, isolating it from the direct exhaust flow.

And I'm open to the notion that this is all OK; I'm still getting an 02 sensor CEL that hits if I sit at idle for more than 30 seconds after the car is warmed up. Could be the sensor, of course; is there a method for testing it?

Thanks,

Wes

Wes--hey dude---The only reason I said the sensor is ok there is because I ran an obx header for a little while and i had the same question. SO I consulted Charlie at Mazcare before i installed it. Charlie is one that would know these things and he assured me it would be ok. SO i put it on and my a/f's etc were the same as with the oem one.
Dunno whats happening with ya.
OD

Like I said, I'm never surprised at what I don't know; also tells me where else to peek. I'm trying to sort out what the previous owner did to this car before I boost it up. Thanks Denny; I'll be looking at the Cobb map on the ECU next.

:eyetwitch

back to business !
If someone have a solution with the lean problem I'll be glad to test it...because I think running with this CEL turned on is not that good !
I have the re-amemiya headers and mid pipe with all my sensor installed...

any way here are my new babys since 2 weeks...

Those Advans are sick,,, I want sooo bad,,,

what lean problem? are your a/fs going lean anywhere. any
ones?
OD

what lean problem? are your a/fs going lean anywhere. any
ones?
OD

Larger injectors can cure ANY lean "issues" :yelrotflm

I may step up the P-1 position from 290; I don't know what to, but a step up may help my trims.

i have a question about the supercharger kit. does it have any kind of warranty or anything like that for it?

:eyetwitch

back to business !
If someone have a solution with the lean problem I'll be glad to test it...because I think running with this CEL turned on is not that good !
I have the re-amemiya headers and mid pipe with all my sensor installed...

any way here are my new babys since 2 weeks...

Just so you know, your Re-Amemiya headers have the same O2 sensor arrangement as my OBX headers. Denny knows his stuff, but with all respect, I can't see how sticking the O2 sensor in the pipe that comes only off the rear port of the rear rotor can give an accurate reading of the overall AFR. There are three exhaust ports on the motor for a reason; the stock header collects 02 data from downstream of where all three ports mix; ExoticSpeed and other headers feed the three exhausts into a common collector and the 02 sensor reads out of there. If your lean condition popped up after you installed the REAmemiya header, you may not have a lean condition, only a faulty 02 sensor reading due to the placement of the 02 sensor in the header. The only way I can see to test it is to put a bung in the midpipe just aft of the header/midpipe junction and either mover your 02 sensor there or stick a wideband commander in there and compare those readings with the ones you have now. I swear I would not trust the current placement for tuning.

i have a question about the supercharger kit. does it have any kind of warranty or anything like that for it?
You are different and maybe a very nieve....looking for warranty in a FI owners thread. Just to be nice I would suggest you contact Pettit and ask about warranty info@pettit.com
The nature of FI says "no warranty" just look at what the "fools" are doing to their cars and what is possible if you don't know what your doing.........If your worried about warranty you best stay stock.

no warranty from Pettit on your engine. probably is on the s.c. unit if he installs--Cam as been in business for a long time and he does stand behind his stuff----but engine--nope--no one will do that.

Hey Zenrx-- if you are showing bad a/f's after installing the header--something is wrong--you are right. do you have a midpipe with a spot for the 2nd o2 sensor? If you can get it to reach try putting it there just to see?
Yall do have a wide band installed--right? Or are you monitoring through the obii port?
I swear there has been a fair number of these headers installed and i havent heard about any of them getting different a/f readings because of it.
dont have an air leak anywhere do ya?
what kind of a/f's you getting other than the 20/1 at cruise? On acceleration does it get in the normal range? What are your LTFT's? It is a puzzle--i like puzzles:)
OD

You are different and maybe a very nieve....looking for warranty in a FI owners thread. Just to be nice I would suggest you contact Pettit and ask about warranty info@pettit.com
The nature of FI says "no warranty" just look at what the "fools" are doing to their cars and what is possible if you don't know what your doing.........If your worried about warranty you best stay stock.

no warranty from Pettit on your engine. probably is on the s.c. unit if he installs--Cam as been in business for a long time and he does stand behind his stuff----but engine--nope--no one will do that.

Stillen, for one, does offer third party engine warranties on certain kits in their line such as the 350Z. As far as the credibility of the 3rd party, I have heard mixed reviews on those companies. In Stillen's case, they had independent testing performed before the warranty company would back their product and the powertrain.

Just so you know, your Re-Amemiya headers have the same O2 sensor arrangement as my OBX headers. Denny knows his stuff, but with all respect, I can't see how sticking the O2 sensor in the pipe that comes only off the rear port of the rear rotor can give an accurate reading of the overall AFR. There are three exhaust ports on the motor for a reason; the stock header collects 02 data from downstream of where all three ports mix; ExoticSpeed and other headers feed the three exhausts into a common collector and the 02 sensor reads out of there. If your lean condition popped up after you installed the REAmemiya header, you may not have a lean condition, only a faulty 02 sensor reading due to the placement of the 02 sensor in the header. The only way I can see to test it is to put a bung in the midpipe just aft of the header/midpipe junction and either mover your 02 sensor there or stick a wideband commander in there and compare those readings with the ones you have now. I swear I would not trust the current placement for tuning.

When I install my re-amemiya header, I did not have any probleme with my O2 sensor !

But now that I have the pettit kit, at the idle position or when I take my feet out of the accelerator (sorry for my english) my A/F ratio is totaly lean !! that turns on the CEL light.
But if I drive the car, the ratio is correct, it s even rich at high RPM (>=7500).

what can correct this ? a new PCM recal ? larger injector ?

When I install my re-amemiya header, I did not have any probleme with my O2 sensor !

But now that I have the pettit kit, at the idle position or when I take my feet out of the accelerator (sorry for my english) my A/F ratio is totaly lean !! that turns on the CEL light.
But if I drive the car, the ratio is correct, it s even rich at high RPM (>=7500).

what can correct this ? a new PCM recal ? larger injector ?

Before you do any of that, I'd relocate the O2 sensor out of the header into a new bung just behind the header midpipe junction.

A/Fs will go dead lean when the TPS goes to zero, that is, you take your foot off the accelerator, so that part is normal; expect to see 20:1 or higher depending on the upper lean limit of your sensor. Lean readings on throttle closing are normal; stalling is not.

Now the other thing that can give you lean readings and stalling are a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake; it could be a vacuum hose not connected or a leak around the supercharger. Stalling at idle can also be caused by a stock fuel pump that is failing at the low voltage/low demand setting after high demand usage; this will be more evident with the supercharger installed because you're now placing higher demands on the fuel pump, which is adequate for stock tune, but starts to get strained once you start pushing over 300 hp; there are threads on that elsewhere in the forum.

Start with the 02 sensor position, and check all your vacuum fittings. Feel around the backplate of the supercharger with your fingers while the car is running and see if you notice a change in idle; you can spray WD40 around the intake and vacuum fittings with the car at idle while listening for a change in engine idle when the WD40 hits the leak. One thing at a time, this will work.

JMKuko,

The CEL code will help work out your problem. I have seen air-leaks / MAF calibration problems give funny CEL's that even lead you astray.

Cheers,
Hymee.

idle problems often = air / vacuum leak.

Yeah, I've been thinking vacuum leak too. Simplest explanation, I had a similar snafu installing my last supercharger, car ran great but threw a CEL "System Too Lean"; idle hunted a lot. Found the leak and fixed it, no more problems.

Denny I forgot to mention about the OBX header on my car; they guy I bought it from had just put it on. Wrapped and everything, nicOe job. Told me it started throwing CELs for a bad 02sensor in the manifold, never did it with the stock manifold. Did he frag the sensor? Entirely possible.

Heres the configuration of the OBX and RE-Amemiya manifold showing the 02 bung in the single pipe:

143496

Heres an ExoticSpeed manifold showing a common collector where the 02 sensor mounts:

143497

Got to think there's a difference there, just sayin'.

lol--I know , i know!

ANYWAY--I HAVE AN EMERGENCY CRY FOR HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My car died today.
I was just going to Lowes for some home air filters--cruising at 3K in 6th has the engine wasnt really warm. All of a sudden--she died................like you had turned the switch off. No hiccup, no skip, no pop---just nothing. Had to get it flatbedded home.
damn--AND I HAVE A TRACK W/E THAT I NEED TO LEAVE FOR TOMORROW---OK?
Now when an engine stops like that its either a fuse or fuel. So I checked all the fuses--they are ok--swapped all the relays around and used the multmeter on them and they are all ok, the fuel pump relay specked out ok.
So I check the fuel pump---no sound coming from the tank---wtf?
Ok so I pull the connector from the pump and tried a circuit tester on it--it wouldnt light the bulb--none of the 4 terminals would--ignition was on---wtf! No power?
Just for the shits i had an old pump that was beyond help( and it was dry) so i plugged it up and it spun---now i am really confused and pissed off. By the way I have never messed with the harness-(that part anyway:)
WTF do I do? Straight wire the bitch(dont really want to do that) but any magic/suggestion or even new cuss words would be appreciated.
olddragger

alternator, battery, grounds, all electrical connections ok?

yep.
OD

yep.
OD

that is the issue i had with my 09 pump. seems the connectors are not perfect matches..

mine works fine with the 04 to 08 pump. 09 not so much..

i would direct wire from the harness to the 09 pump..

that was the issue i had on the way to robleling in may! ;)

beers :beer:

So if you plugged a different pump into the harness and it worked, doesn't that mean you pump has had the richard?

Or am I missing something??

Cheers,
Hymee.

maybe, still searching---the pump connector for the 09 pump power is fine --no mod needed--only the sending unit plug needed work?
OD

Nuke the pump..Buy a Walbro or Supra Denso pump and get it over with :)

We can help you with the changes

it was the ignition---see my emergency help thread in the issues and probs
Dan --i dont like walbro--and I may take you up on the supra pump--more horse now.
OD

sorry--here is what happened:
ppreciate everyones help---------SHE IS RUNNING!!!!
Charlie at Mazcare is the man--talked with me a long time. He pointed me in the right direction, went over schematics with me, etc and I could not have gotten her going so fast without him. He suggested strongly to check the spark. SO I did and behold--- not any damn spark to the plugs--any plugs. ---wtf!! I traced it down and the coils grounding wire connector had came apart--probably from all the work i have been doing in which I had to raise car/engine. I dont have the oem pigtail thing--i have one single big wire mounted to the frame where the battery ground is mounted. ANyway made a new one and it fired right up.
The pump wasnt pumping because the engine wasnt getting spark and this is to keep from flooding the engine? This is what we figue--..
Learn something everyday. Sum Bitch!

THANKS CHARLIE YOU ARE THE MAN! Took time out from his busy shop day to guide me through--knowing he wouldnt make any money from this. Really cant ask for a better friend--he even is patient with stupid people like me!
If it wasnt for him I would have had to forfeit my track fee of $450 this w/e.
Repeat he is the MAN.
rotor on all
olddragger

Cmon man - linky please!

i feel as if there was some misunderstanding with my original question and i am sure i couldve gone into more detail with my question. but i was wonding if there was a warrenty on the supercharger parts if something were to be malfuctioned upon recieving. i understand that the engine would not be warrented or anything like that and i understand that. thank you all for your information tho.

Hi woody,

yes I believe Pettit warranty their own parts, but as others said, just not engines etc!
As for details I have no idea, you should probably ask Pettit via email or phone call.....

PS Good news OD well done and great save. have a good track session.......

i feel as if there was some misunderstanding with my original question and i am sure i couldve gone into more detail with my question. but i was wonding if there was a warrenty on the supercharger parts if something were to be malfuctioned upon recieving. i understand that the engine would not be warrented or anything like that and i understand that. thank you all for your information tho.
Cam is a very reputable business man. There is some warranty on the super charger and it's component parts with the kit. You would really be better off asking Cam about how the warranty works. Actually I have never had a problem with any thing I have purchased from him. There are only a few vendors on the forum that I would rate as a 10 and he is one of them.

So if you plugged a different pump into the harness and it worked, doesn't that mean you pump has had the richard?

Or am I missing something??

Cheers,
Hymee.

the early pumps work fine on mine. the 09 does not. if i wire it direct with alligator clips it works. but i have not messed with it for a while.

i guess i need to start messing again..

beers :beer:

[QUOTE=olddragger;31

THANKS CHARLIE YOU ARE THE MAN! Took time out from his busy shop day to guide me through--knowing he wouldnt make any money from this. Really cant ask for a better friend--he even is patient with stupid people like me!
If it wasnt for him I would have had to forfeit my track fee of $450 this w/e.
Repeat he is the MAN.
rotor on all
olddragger[/QUOTE]

yes he is!!!!

i sent him a bottle jw black. he seemed to have liked it! ;)

beers :beer:

Cam is a very reputable business man. There is some warranty on the super charger and it's component parts with the kit. You would really be better off asking Cam about how the warranty works. Actually I have never had a problem with any thing I have purchased from him. There are only a few vendors on the forum that I would rate as a 10 and he is one of them.

I did have an issue with a weld, and I would never have noticed it.
Cam and Moon saw it immediately, Cam welded it on the weekend for me.
(I live close to Pettit) :evil_laug

I did have an issue with a weld, and I would never have noticed it.
Cam and Moon saw it immediately, Cam welded it on the weekend for me.
(I live close to Pettit) :evil_laug

Lucky Dog,,,

Hello fellow Pettit SC owners. I have been out of the loop for several months and to be honest I have only driven my 8 twice since June. I had lots to do this summer to include getting my house ready for sell. I’m planning to move to Orlando once I sell my house here in Lakeland in order to be closer to work, car shops, race tracks and so on. However, I have been keeping track on the SC tread developments. BTW Rotr8 your front bumper looks awesome.

Anyway, I have a question for the members that are running a Snow Performance meth injection kit. My Snow Performance electronic control box malfunctioned for the second time. The first time it happened Snow Performance replaced it for free. However the second time (last week) I call them and was told that it is out of warranty although it clearly states on the original product literature included in the original purchase that the Snow Performance parts have a lifetime replacement warranty. The only thing that they would do for me is to sell me a discounted control box for @ $150. Anyway, I don’t argue with vendors, I just stop buying from them. My control box sits inside the car and is not subject to harsh environmental conditions.

Here is the question. My Snow control box only works in the Boost Mode and I’m wondering if any of the Snow owners are using the control box on that mode rather than the MAF Mode.

Yes, the pump works fine. Yes, I do get voltage variations from my MAF wire. Yes, I checked all the wiring over and over again. However, if I apply air pressure using a vacuum hose while on the Boost Mode it does starts pumping meth.

Any input will be appreciated. :eyetwitch

Whhoooaaa,,, was wondering where you went Juan,,,
Thanks for the compliment,,

Hope someone can help you figure your problem,,,
I have the CoolingMist meth setup(uninstalled) and am still debating on wether or not to install,,,

Good luck...

Here is the question. My Snow control box only works in the Boost Mode and I’m wondering if any of the Snow owners are using the control box on that mode rather than the MAF Mode.

Yes, the pump works fine. Yes, I do get voltage variations from my MAF wire. Yes, I checked all the wiring over and over again. However, if I apply air pressure using a vacuum hose while on the Boost Mode it does starts pumping meth.

Any input will be appreciated. :eyetwitch

Sorry Juan, my controller is MAF only, I think Gleyner is the same as mine.
If your works on MAP mode, use it.
As long as it sprays under boost, I don't see a real problem.
The negative side is, something in that controller is broken and it may stop working completely when you least expect it.

:fingersx:

np out of mine and mine is in the engine compartment.
could it be your selector switch?
welcome back dude.
OD

So how was Road Atlanta Denny,,,

Hello fellow Pettit SC owners. I have been out of the loop for several months and to be honest I have only driven my 8 twice since June. I had lots to do this summer to include getting my house ready for sell. I’m planning to move to Orlando once I sell my house here in Lakeland in order to be closer to work, car shops, race tracks and so on. However, I have been keeping track on the SC tread developments. BTW Rotr8 your front bumper looks awesome.

Anyway, I have a question for the members that are running a Snow Performance meth injection kit. My Snow Performance electronic control box malfunctioned for the second time. The first time it happened Snow Performance replaced it for free. However the second time (last week) I call them and was told that it is out of warranty although it clearly states on the original product literature included in the original purchase that the Snow Performance parts have a lifetime replacement warranty. The only thing that they would do for me is to sell me a discounted control box for @ $150. Anyway, I don’t argue with vendors, I just stop buying from them. My control box sits inside the car and is not subject to harsh environmental conditions.

Here is the question. My Snow control box only works in the Boost Mode and I’m wondering if any of the Snow owners are using the control box on that mode rather than the MAF Mode.

Yes, the pump works fine. Yes, I do get voltage variations from my MAF wire. Yes, I checked all the wiring over and over again. However, if I apply air pressure using a vacuum hose while on the Boost Mode it does starts pumping meth.

Any input will be appreciated. :eyetwitch

Mine is MAF only and still works.

I would call them and explain calmly to them that you are an educated user and are sure that the product is defective and not malfunctioning due to any fault of your own.

Also tell them that you have recommended/installed their systems for/in several of your friend's cars. Ask them to send you a MAF only version (less complexity means less probability of failure).

Seriously man, if they still don't agree to send you another one, tell them you will have your friend create a youtube video about how much Snow Performance's customer service sucks, and your friend who creates graphics will make stickers for your car stating such that will be visible at all of the drag racing and autocross events you go to.

Also ask them what their definition of "lifetime warranty" is.

Lifetime Warranty = Covered for the lifetime of the part. E.g. If the part has an expected lifetime of 1 day, then you get a 1 day warranty... <duck>

Cheers,
Hymee.

Hymee's way of looking at the warranty comes from living upside down :eek:. Could be why I went AEM.

LOL - I didn't say that is how my warranty works. I saw a Primus gas cylinder one time that said that the gas would last indefinitely. I thought it was magic. Then I realised what the words were saying. :)

Cheers,
Hymee.

Hymee's way of looking at the warranty comes from living upside down :eek:. Could be why I went AEM.


Does the AEM kit use MAF or Pressure?

Well--engine is blown. >:( :shock: :? :oops: :cry: :stuck: :whipped: :deadhorse:
I am now officially a non rx8 owner member. This car has left me beside the road 3 times. It has struck out.
I am really and seriously sad. I have put a lot of work/effort/time/money and emotions into that car. More than I have in any other one I have owned. It sure helped to bring me together with a bunch of unforgettable people.
Who would ever think a little plastic piece one halve the size of a dime would cause a motor to blow?

This is the offical cause of what happened.
It occurred on the back straight at RA. I was seriously surprising a zo6 and modified sti owners butts. But then it happened--developed a dead skip. I came off track and after exploring the cause I found it was caused by fuel starvation as a result of a fuel line leak caused by a very small plastic sealer present in the fuel rail fuel line. The gas line that connects the two fuel rail together(to the apv fuel injectors). There was gas pooled on top of the intake manifold when i came in. That was not good. It was actually steaming.
I found the plastic piece when i did a tear down of the injectors/fuel rail. Somehow it had worked its way a loose and fell out--i dont have a clue as too how. Very strange. Guess the snap lock piece had weaken over time? Anyway the number one rotor blew i guess because it is the furthest away from the gas line connector and it had the least supply/pressure?. Funny that my a/f ratios stayed ok at all times except exactly when it happened. Only one little episode of a misfire during an earlier session for maybe 1/2 sec. No detonation ever heard. Never over 7.5 K rpm. The sparkplug looked like a piece of toast. But that is what caused the lean condition that blew the engine.Anyway it my best guess.
Thats it. Fricking Gremblins. Its an infected car.

When i left RA it was obvious the engine wasnt smooth running when a load was placed on it--all kinds of misfires and it continued with a dead skip--but according to my data I still made 143 hp on one rotor!! It finally gave up on me totally about 30 miles from home. Like you turned the switch off. Coasted to a shady spot (it was 98F) and got the tow truck on the way. ASked him to bring me a diet coke (i was hot and thristy) and a stick of dynamite. I got the coke.
Checked it out tonight--buttoned it all up right --changed plugs, fuel lines and injectors in snug and tight. Put Roscoe in my lap for luck and tried to crank her. Now she will not hit a lick and I can hear that no compression sound. I will do a little compression check tomorrow--but hell I already know.
anyone know of a cheap but good compression engine and a person that may be interested in a good car--(after the gypsy voodoo exorcism) let me know.
Its been one hell of a ride.
olddragger

WTF!!!!
Dude, Denny you cant give up now,,, just get another engine and build it up yourself,,,
Cmon man you cant give up with all the work youve done,,,

Wow,,, I am so sorry to hear your loss,,,
But heads up ,,,,,

Wow...that sucks. So you're really giving up on the RX-8? Any thoughts as to what car you'll get after this?

Gotta have big wallet and bigger balls to go FI to the track....

Come on Denny......

Build it up....and it will come :)

omg! that is terrible! Stay strong OD. You are in a PTS state.

We are beaming you support and goodwill........

After all the work you've done.....all the innovations you have achieved......It's only the moment, you will calm down. Hell when we choose to run on the ragged edge "shit happens". Fix that dam problem child and show that Z06 and STI where the bear does his thing in the woods.

I listen to every one here !

You gave too much timeand money to this car ! you can't give up !

if you really want to change something : just found an rx7 TT 2.0 engine :) what a feeling :)
(and pettit did some with the banzaï rx7 : 500HP)

Hope it all sorts itself out for you OD. May the force-ed induction be with you. The world is a better place and owes you a debt of gratitude following your sacrifices to the speed gods.

Cheers,
Hymee.

thanks Guys---the family has surprised me. My biological/marriage family I mean.
My 17 yr old daughter offered to swap me her car (you have to understand--she loves her car--05 acura tsx) for mine after it was fixed and defanged--to keep it in the family. That almost brought a tear to my eye. Damn. Guess more than one person in this house has become attached?
Anyway--i have to fix it 1st before anything.
BUT--WORD OF WARNING--GET THOSE DAMN FUEL LINE CONNECTORS SECURE! Yall do know the FP will spike when you let off the gas too--right?
I also have a builder (great one) that will do me a 2nd gen street version LS 1 with manual trans and a/c etc for 15-20K. Glad I have some time to make my decision.
Thanks for all yalls support and well wishes.
olddragger

Damn OD, sorry to hear about the engine going on you.
Quite a generous offer from your daughter, it's obvious you raised her right.

Build her back up and show that damn car whose boss. You know you want to... ;)

sorry to hear that OD . Give it a few days - get her fixed then go again . Too much fun not to ;)

And don't even think about putting an LS1 into her :nono:

yeah i guess (looking on the bright side if possible)

now you have the engine out, you can try some other stuff out, and or tidy things up in the bay.....

Good to hear that BOTH your familys are behind you!

true that, true that:)
looks like a Rick engine from Mazmart will be going in. Engine out this w/e and hopefully between daughters school, another daughter's college soccer(scholarship), work etc i can get er done by the w/e after that.X fingers

One hit to all about tracking with the big pulley--i was having trouble with the belt slipping. Even in the higher gears and lower rpm's --may not be enough belt for the road course? With the smaller pulley no problem.
OD

BUT--WORD OF WARNING--GET THOSE DAMN FUEL LINE CONNECTORS SECURE!
olddragger


You're not the only one to get bitten in the ass by those cheap connectors, Denny. Autopsy has it that they were a major culprit in my car's problem; Cam has told me that his popped off in traffic.

Another thing: I only had the problem after I installed the larger pulley and injectors.

Just like you.

Hmmm.

Cam mentioned he was had a concept for a billet connector to replace those quick connectors, don't know if he's done it yet. But yeah, everyone check those quick connects, wrap a zip tie around the collar - tight - both connectors. Under high pressure conditions with all the extra heat in the engine compartment, those quick connects will become plastic enough to slip over the mushroom connector on the fuel rails and spray raw fuel right on top of the LIM and drip down onto the exhaust manifold. Ask me how I know.

you too huh---makes sense--we are having to pump more and more fuel to the beast. we may actually be getting close to the FP capacity?
Anyway i am going to notch mine with a dremel so a small zip tie will fit and not slide around-- or--may be able to drill a couple holes in the ends and use them to secure the dang things.
I am not giving up on the bigger pulley--i always wanted a better way of holding tension on that belt. Maybe I will have time now to figue one out.
Lot of work ahead of me in the dirt, on my back, in the summer heat iof Ga during my 60th birthday. Cant think of a better present---Thank ya Lord!!
olddragger

hello all i am new to the site/club i have had my rx8 for like 4 months now. love it. but would like to make it just a bit quicker and what not. ive been lookin around and found this one 'super charger' for pretty cheap. was wondering how well it performs or if it is an entire 'supercharger' or not. i am new to all of this. waht i found was this....Pettit Supercharger PCM-FI recal kit from rx7store.com

sorry - rx7store.net

hello all i am new to the site/club i have had my rx8 for like 4 months now. love it. but would like to make it just a bit quicker and what not. ive been lookin around and found this one 'super charger' for pretty cheap. was wondering how well it performs or if it is an entire 'supercharger' or not. i am new to all of this. waht i found was this....Pettit Supercharger PCM-FI recal kit from rx7store.com

That is not a supercharger, it is a reflash that goes with the supercharger, they are sold separately.

so it would do nothig for me without me already having a supercharger lol. awesome thankyou. what would be some quick changes i could apply to my 8 to get it any quicker?

OD or Zen,

can you post pics of the dodgy fuel parts you are talking about so people can look out for them?

/\ +1 on that

OD or Zen,

can you post pics of the dodgy fuel parts you are talking about so people can look out for them?


I suspect he is talking about the "ring clamp", this is the return line (unused in the Pettit kit) and this ring is blue.
On the real fuel line, that is on all of our cars (N/A, S/C and Turbo) the clamp is red.

Right OD?

yep that is what the ring looks like but on the fuel rail line there are also little half/quarter moon looking "spacer" that fit between the connector and the rear ridge of the fuel line the connector/lock fits around. Try to get a pic up--kidda busy")
OD

yep that is what the ring looks like but on the fuel rail line there are also little half/quarter moon looking "spacer" that fit between the connector and the rear ridge of the fuel line the connector/lock fits around. Try to get a pic up--kidda busy")
OD

Yep, those are the little bastards. Here's what it can look like when one pops:

:scared: f**k - when did that happen Zen ?

:scared: f**k - when did that happen Zen ?

April.

Yep, those are the little bastards. Here's what it can look like when one pops:

I suddenly hear a calling for new fuel lines, with AN-6 fittings. :rolleyes:

so it would do nothig for me without me already having a supercharger lol. awesome thankyou. what would be some quick changes i could apply to my 8 to get it any quicker?

You'll have to search around in the other threads for details because this is just abut the Petit SC, but here's a few ideas to start with.

Cobb access port - a flash tuning device

Exhaust with high flow cat or no cat if you want to be really loud!

Intake - even just the K&N replacement filter gave me 5 rear wheel hp for $50

Ignition upgrade gives you a very strong power gain of around 10 rear wheel hp

Do some searches and choose which brands you think will be best, you can send me a personal message if you want some details on my experiences.

Yep, those are the little bastards. Here's what it can look like when one pops:

You might be able to sell that sc if you scrub it, its almost the only thing recognizable in there. I guess anyone with forced induction should mount a fire extinguisher, that horrible looking sorry for your loss.

Exhaust with high flow cat or no cat if you want to be really loud!

Not necessarily. ;)

There is something missing from this connector.

mini clipie ring thingy

yep that is what the ring looks like but on the fuel rail line there are also little half/quarter moon looking "spacer" that fit between the connector and the rear ridge of the fuel line the connector/lock fits around. Try to get a pic up--kidda busy")
OD

here you go denny. i am thinking this is what your are talking about..

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143887&stc=1&d=1250141618

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143888&stc=1&d=1250141618



btw, i have some of this stuff in boxes.. let me know if you need them..

also. if you need help this weekend. i can come up and help..

really.. and i am serious, i would learn a lot! :)

beers :beer:

thinking about how that works - it would be impossible for it to get into the fuel line unless it broke off during installation ..............

ouch Zen! what happened after your flame out? Did your insurance cover everything?

OK Guys...talking about fuel problem!
I discover something strange.
on idle, if I spray some brake cleaner near the fuel injectors, the car's RPM change (going up).

so I thought I had a leak...

But I gave it a try while my wife keeping the RPM near 4000... no change in the RPM...

what could that be ?

There is possibly less manifold vacuum when it is revving - but more likely it is a percentages thing. Either way, the thinners/hydrocarbons in the brake cleaner are getting into the intake someplace, so I'd say there was a vacuum leak.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Ran the car to work last Tuesday (150 miles roundtrip) and the Snow Performance control box worked fine after setting it work on Boost mode. In fact I think I like it better this way rather than on MAF mode. Anyway it was a blast to ride the car again however is back under covers till next time around.

BTW, Sorry to hear about OD and Zen misfortune. Hope things will shape for the better soon. :eyetwitch

I followed a link from OD, to Ken Bell's "Boost a Pump" (http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm) page.


I saw a paragraph that read that they had seen less fuel flow at night when the stereo and lights were on; suddenly my huge Long Term Trims made sense.

Anyone else have a lot of wattage on the stereo?
Anyone else have large LTT values? (above 15 all the way to 20?)

Would these two groups be the same people? LOL

My headlights dim at night when the bass hits, so I know my fuel system must take a hit too.


:banghead:

/\ way more likely that you just need to recalibrate your maf

damn Z--man glad YOU are ok--i was lucky--very lucky.
that little clip(dark red thing still on the line) swoope is showing is what fell out some kinda way. Pressure must have pushed it out?
Swoope--man you are welcome ANYTIME. I almost have her out now--just trans and ppf etc left --then yank her out. Then I will be motoring to mazmart next weds/thursday to pick up the rick-e one. Then will start putting her together. Come on up a week from friday if you like. It will be hot and dirty, but yep you do learn a lot spending time under the hood. Replacing an engine really isnt that hard--it is just work. Especially if you dont have a lift.
I have already seen some things i can do differant.
OD

ouch Zen! what happened after your flame out? Did your insurance cover everything?

Much to happy surprise and amazement, yes.

There is possibly less manifold vacuum when it is revving - but more likely it is a percentages thing. Either way, the thinners/hydrocarbons in the brake cleaner are getting into the intake someplace, so I'd say there was a vacuum leak.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Thanks,

But why when I spray on the vaccum box or hose, the RPM does not really change and on the other hand when I spray directly on the injectors or on the fuel line connection (the one left to the vaccum box), the RPM change a lot (in the idle) !

i believe ya--seems to me that our primary rail fuel injectors are not as secure as i would like them to be. You can easily turn them with 2 fingers.
Now the red injectors--the apv ones they have a different washer/gromment on them. It seems like it would sealer better? I may look in putting that type gromment on all my injectors.
Also--yall correct me if i am wrong---I seem to remember somewhere that there is a little plastic piece that fits under the bolts on the mail fuel rail? Is that right? AM I wrong?
If there is one then would that change the fitment angle?

After I got my fuel rails and lines off, i put them back together. I was amazed at the line movement allowed on the rail --it will pull back and forth. Some movement is expected--but i also noticed that the little fitting that came out on mine ---after moving the line back and both a little---it actually turned to a angle and you could see how easily it could come out! Sum bitch.
I notch the connector lock ring so that a plastic tie would fit AND on the connectors (2)that have those little spacers I placed a small Plastic tie around it. That seemed to cure it all.
These gas lines move around some with the fuel pressure being on and off.
Converting to ss would be a pita.

Converting to ss would be a pita.


I have this thing about not liking fire! :FIREdevil

OD - Injectors are supposed to rotate in the rail. That is normal. Can we rule out the red snap-on clip was not damaged or clipped on properly. These are very common parts in late model fuel injected cars. The only one I need to disconnect to install my blower is one blue on on the vapour / breather like from the fuel tank. I can undo it with one hand, and the joint comes apart, and slides back on then snaps into place when re-fitting. No dramas.

Cheers,
Hymee.

yep that was my 1st r/o--it was on right and had been on right for 2 wks at least.
it was just too loose.
od

yep that was my 1st r/o--it was on right and had been on right for 2 wks at least.
it was just too loose.
od

hey,

i have a bunch more fuel line / clips and stuff coming.. my box plus more..;) i am going to try to be up friday late afternoon.. i need to talk to paul about a couple of things while i am there if i can.

glad you are sticking with it..

also if you have any odd questions about the remove, and how the parts fit in the injector area. you might pm G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY. you have met him. he was the found the fuse guy at robleing road.. he has taken apart lots of rx8s.

beers :beer:

swoope that will be cool man--give me and the family a chance to practice some southern hospitality. I am touched dude--really. Thanks.You will have a good time. For a break maybe we will get ya on the lake with the boat and ski/tube some?
Paul is working on bench pressing 400--freak--but a good freak.
Replacing an engine teach's a lot.
OD

Dam OD, you got me worried cuz I upgraded to the large pulley and injectors. We took apart manifold and looked at the fuel rail and lines. See pix. We tugged on the lines and could not duplicate your problem. Just wondering if you have the same (or lack there of) cage affair that Ray has in his hand. This part is missing from the other pix. Could this be the cause??????

That blue "cage" makes it nearly impossible for the outer red "clip" to slide up and off the fuel line without being pulled in the opposite direction first.
It is kinda like Chinese finger-cuffs.

Dam OD, you got me worried cuz I upgraded to the large pulley and injectors. We took apart manifold and looked at the fuel rail and lines. See pix. We tugged on the lines and could not duplicate your problem. Just wondering if you have the same (or lack there of) cage affair that Ray has in his hand. This part is missing from the other pix. Could this be the cause??????

Isn't that the little thing that the Mazda manual says to throw away and never use more than once? (buy a new one each time it is assembled)

:yumyum:

there are 2 different types of connectors/locks. one type with the blue cage as shown and the other type is on the fuel line that connects the 2 fual rails. that line doesnt have the blue cage--it has a little spacer things (thanks Scott). see pic

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143888&stc=1&d=1250141618

if your clip/connector thing is a little loose and the gas line moves back and forth (it will) then this little spacer can dislodge. The larger pulley etc doesnt have anything to do with this.

I would not even trust a new one--zip tying all mine from now on.

If I made it sound like I was blaming the larger pulley, I apologize. I was strictly stating the fact that I too installed new injectors and was checking the hose connections. I saw your post and someones pix and thought something was missing. My car is different cuz that "cage" thing is part of all the connections.

I did not see any notation in the manual to replace them each time I used them but it could be there somewhere. I'll butt out, just thought I found something.

I am trying a new new lube in the blower; Royal Purple 75W-90 Full Synthetic gear lube.
I am hoping to quiet the blower whine with the big pulley.

Also, a question, has anyone used a sealant for the fuel injector to manifold seals?
I am thinking some of the black hi-temp RTV (very thin film) to "glue" the seals to the injectors, then the injectors to the intake manifold; not that worried about the fuel rail. (I want to make sure my boost stays inside.)

I am trying a new new lube in the blower; Royal Purple 75W-90 Full Synthetic gear lube.
I am hoping to quiet the blower whine with the big pulley.
.)


thought that was one of the attractions of a SC ?

Also, a question, has anyone used a sealant for the fuel injector to manifold seals?
I am thinking some of the black hi-temp RTV (very thin film) to "glue" the seals to the injectors, then the injectors to the intake manifold; not that worried about the fuel rail. (I want to make sure my boost stays inside.)

Yes. I do this. A VERY thin film will do the trick.

me too--and a oil change--i dont think is going to help with the sound:)
I am not going to put sealant around the injectors-but am thinking about using the red injectors grommet everywhere--seems better to me?
Good to hear from ya Phil----butt in anytime..
Yea we have those 2 more pesky gas squirters.
may be a good time for me to try and get the idler pulley i want.
Drove an R3 today--it was nice. Seats more comfortable than I thought--but it just doesnt have ANY get up and go.[I] wouldnt get it for that reason.
OD
OD

me too--and a oil change--i dont think is going to help with the sound:)
I am not going to put sealant around the injectors-but am thinking about using the red injectors grommet everywhere--seems better to me?
Good to hear from ya Phil----butt in anytime..
Yea we have those 2 more pesky gas squirters.
may be a good time for me to try and get the idler pulley i want.
Drove an R3 today--it was nice. Seats more comfortable than I thought--but it just doesnt have ANY get up and go.[I] wouldnt get it for that reason.
OD
OD

So, buy the seats?

:rofl:

one of those seats cost as much as one SC,,,

Drove an R3 today--it was nice. Seats more comfortable than I thought--but it just doesnt have ANY get up and go.[I] wouldnt get it for that reason.
OD
OD


Denny,
Love it or hate it, but you will be hard pressed to find a car as nice as the 8.
We all hate them at some time, but we make up and have real fun then.

yeah nice seats but CRAZY expensive!

Why not rubber grease on the injector o-rings? I don't understand gluing them in place. I'm interested in the photos of the fuel line clips... Have these been taken un-assembled for the purpose of demonstrating the components, or simply because you disassemble them when you disconnect the lines? The reason I ask is the first few times I disconnected, I was pulling the connectors apart to get them off. Then I worked out that you don't need to do that. I'm much happier not dissassembling them, as I feel there is little to no risk of breaking the bits, and zero risk of putting them back together incorrectly.

When you guys put your bigger pulley on for more boost, the blower whine you start hearing is not the gears, it is the twin-screws working properly. That is real blower whine. At the lower boost levels, these blowers don't make that noise as they are not working "fully". When you work them harder and make some "proper" boost, then they sing. :)

Cheers,
Hymee.

Cheers,
Hymee.

hymlee---pics of the clips are posted on this thread.
its the fuel line clips that connects the 2 fuel rails together. The part of the line that runs horizontal, moves a little with the fuel pressure changes and if the lock ring is loose(they all stretch out sooner or later) the small red spacer can come out.
in moving it around with just my hand (fuel rail off the car) i saw it happen and it was repeatable. The lock ring was a little stretched out --but it had been running for 2 wks without a problem and 1 twenty min session on the track before it let go.
i put a very small plastic tie around the spacer--bought new lock rings and notched the little ledge so another plastic tie will fit around it and not slip off.
i may loose another engine in the future but it will not be to this. Maybe--hell who knows---its infected.
olddragger

one of those seats cost as much as one SC,,,

I was looking into buying them and they are $2200 each! That's assuming we can use our current mounting brackets.

If those little lock rings are just failing, then you have a good case for a warranty claim. (duck)

Cheers,
Hymee.

I agree with denny and hymee, a few tie wraps in the proper places. I myself would recommend not just tie wrapping the clips but putting them around the 45 so you need not worry all that much about the clips. Use high quality ties such as stainless to handle the preasure and run it across the entire fuel rail that way its deffinatly not going anywhere.

I was looking into buying them and they are $2200 each! That's assuming we can use our current mounting brackets.

Dont know where your getting that number from, I went to the dealer when they first came out and its $1800 for the seat bottom and $4400 for the seat back, the high price has to do with the air bag integration, and yeah thats each seat,,, so thats just under $6K for one R3 seat,,,,
Denny save the money and get my seat it was $1700 and is incredible, and its airbag option is another $400 for a universal airbag that is integrated into the sidebolster,,,

Also, been data logging this whole week, Ambient has been anywhere from 92-110 and the logging has been high speed runs as well as traffic,,,

MAX WATER TEMP with new rads is 197

http://a.imagehost.org/0559/max-temp.jpg (http://a.imagehost.org/view/0559/max-temp)

engine out ==no visible surprises--wish i could be there for the break down.
pick up ricke engine weds /thursday.
probably will not be running this w/e--lots of other stuff i have to do.
OD

do it slow and right!

i like slow:)

any chance you can get Paul and Rick to photograph the inside of the engine?
just curious to see how she looks.

Measure twice, cut once. :)

we have talked about that very thing!
? can the side seals be seen from the intake ports on rotation of the rotary?
od

Not totaly, if you scoped it you might see damage but to be sure I'd take it apart so if there's any scoring that can be delt with up close.

Question:
Has anyone top ended this combination?
I have been 140 and did not want to go more, theoretical math says 180.
140 was <7K

Just asking.

I got to about 150+ think? Still pulling away happily.

I don't have a sc but got to 145 mph in 5 at around 8400, didn't even try 6th

I have not yet tried to top end the combination with the larger pulley. Having a few tuning issues (not the pulleys fault) and some slippage of the belt on the new pulley. I should have the tuning issue fixed in a couple of weeks and I am working on the slippage problem (any of you with the large pulley have the same problem?)

Before the new pulley and the meth spray I was able to get to 153 on a Nevada Road race (to Laughlin Nevada) but aerodynamics took over and I became unstable (airborne).

edit: I had pedal left but no balls - I'm not sure how to drive (fly) an plane

141 mph @ 6900 rpm (5th gear and still pulling). :eyetwitch

140 almost but then had to brake hard---didnt like it--world changes@ +120 or so. doesnt have the aero?
Rick E (mazmart) engine is at my house today.Learned some new stuff---the monster project Paul is into is really awesome--its going to be groundbreaking and you will want one.!!
got thumbs up on the use of diesel oil.
There is a lot happening .
the 09 injectors are better than we thought--hint, hint.
olddragger