Don't go dude, just use the ignore feature if he bothers you so much.

Joff--your pm box is full--appreciate your message.

I just want to be clear--I have nothing agaisnt Ray or the rest of BHR--only Jeff. And he is right there is no such thing as bad publicity.
Since this is no longer(for me) the RX8 forum--it is the BHR forum i am asking the admin mod to remove my name from the membership.
Those of you that know me know how to get in touch and I hope you do.
I dont have time to play with children anymore
rotor on guys
olddragger
I have a very limited knowledge of "forums" but those I frequent all seem to become dramas of one sort or another. Some are fun others boring and a few offensive. I have even found myself getting drawn into the "drama" a few times. You know even with this "drama" I have learned more about the one mutual item we have in common...the RX8. There have been a few that left the forums that I was indifferent about and a few that I miss. Olddragger would be sorely missed if he leaves the forum. I would hope that he was just a little miffed and reconsiders. Most of what is said here are just words and opinions and should never be taken to heart. I would hope that Denny just ignores the "Drama" and continues with his work to make the 8 a better car.

^^ He still hasn't explained his use of diesel as a gear oil and I'm a little mystified.

Joff--your pm box is full--appreciate your message.

I just want to be clear--I have nothing agaisnt Ray or the rest of BHR--only Jeff. And he is right there is no such thing as bad publicity.
Since this is no longer(for me) the RX8 forum--it is the BHR forum i am asking the admin mod to remove my name from the membership.
Those of you that know me know how to get in touch and I hope you do.
I dont have time to play with children anymore
rotor on guys
olddragger


Yes don't go man !!!

I will need your help too for my futur problems :spank:

Why? Are you not entertained?
Is it stressing you out?

No, but most things related to the Pettit supercharger in the last few days is now buried.

You already have a bashing Moon vs Jeff thread, why not take it there, or is that thread not seeing enough visits?

See what I get for Sleeping.... damn.

OD - Don't roll dude; I respect your decision either way - but if you would be so kind to PM me your info since I am in Florida and wanted to come visit this summer.

the sound is nice--and people on the outside can hear it well on track--they always commit about it afterward to me---hear it but not too loud. Turbo has a good sound too--just different.

SOmething new guys----read up about using diesel oil instead of the regular motor oil---we are starting to do that in GA--makes a lot of sense. If yall need more details I can get it too ya.
olddragger

Don't have the S/C yet, but have been watching this thread for months soaking up knowledge.

OD, your oil statement got lost in the noise, you talking about changing the crankcase oil for a Shell "Rotella" diesel grade, or it goes in the Pettit gearcase, or what? :confused: :dunno: :scratchhe

See what I get for Sleeping.... damn.

OD - Don't roll dude; I respect your decision either way - but if you would be so kind to PM me your info since I am in Florida and wanted to come visit this summer.

Now that everybody is watching:

Would like to advocate boycotting rx8club and moving the entire Pettit forum to rotarycarclub.com. Cheaper for Pettit, more respectable, and some guru RX7 expertise is already there to converse with. Small relatively new forum though, but definitely more civil and not controlled yet by vendor interests. The "build thread" sub-forum is perhaps its best idea IMHO.

Perhaps a fresh start is in order for us all. This forum seems to have a knack for bringing out the worst in people (including myself).

I am already on RCC - were you asking me if I wanted to pick up sticks?

:confused:

This forum seems to have a knack for bringing out the worst in people (including myself).

And to think, Jesse, that all you had to do to get the answers you allege you were seeking was walk 15 feet across the parking lot Saturday night and ask me what you wanted to know. When was the last time we communicated in any manner? Instead, you have opted for innuendo. And BHR are supposed to be the problematic ones?:uhh:

This forum brings out the GENUINE in people, every little scrap thereof.

Now that everybody is watching:

Would like to advocate boycotting rx8club and moving the entire Pettit forum to rotarycarclub.com.

I second the motion wholeheartedly.
I've been over there for about a year now and the quality of content, while sparse, is inspiring.

EDIT - The only caveat I'd like to add to my endorsement is that the RotaryCarClub forum is mostly RX-7 oriented and the RX-8 subsection is just a single sub-forum.
However, I'm sure the owners could be persuaded to spread it out if they saw an influx of RX-8 members and commensurate usage stats.

Now that everybody is watching:

Would like to advocate boycotting rx8club and moving the entire Pettit forum to rotarycarclub.com. Cheaper for Pettit, more respectable, and some guru RX7 expertise is already there to converse with. Small relatively new forum though, but definitely more civil and not controlled yet by vendor interests. The "build thread" sub-forum is perhaps its best idea IMHO.

Perhaps a fresh start is in order for us all. This forum seems to have a knack for bringing out the worst in people (including myself).
Nah, might as well stay here. They will just follow us wherever we go, they're like fleas.

And to think, Jesse, that all you had to do to get the answers you allege you were seeking was walk 15 feet across the parking lot Saturday night and ask me what you wanted to know. When was the last time we communicated in any manner? Instead, you have opted for innuendo. And BHR are supposed to be the problematic ones?:uhh:

This forum brings out the GENUINE in people, every little scrap thereof.

You once told me you got the name of your company from a Tool song (The Pot), which has a lyric that's actually "Black Kettle" (not Black Halo). The song focuses on that whole pot calling the kettle black idiom.

Jesse's not the only one guilty of innuendo...

I'm sure I'm guilty of it too :)

You once told me you got the name of your company from a Tool song (The Pot), which has a lyric that's actually "Black Kettle" (not Black Halo). The song focuses on that whole pot calling the kettle black idiom.

Jesse's not the only one guilty of innuendo...

I'm sure I'm guilty of it too :)


Yep, I did tell you that and I also admitted that it was a misconstruction of the lyrics but I thought it sounded cool just the same. What a "breaking news story" you came up with on that one.

BTW, none of us at BHR "followed" anyone to this thread. We were dragged in by our friend, Jesse, here, who is a soft-spoken, likeable, and intellectual guy in real life.

Stop talking shit and we'll leave all of you alone.

Yep, I did tell you that and I also admitted that it was a misconstruction of the lyrics but I thought it sounded cool just the same. What a "breaking news story" you came up with on that one.

BTW, none of us at BHR "followed" anyone to this thread. We were dragged in by our friend, Jesse, here, who is a soft-spoken, likeable, and intellectual guy in real life.

Stop talking shit and we'll leave all of you alone.

Not a breaking news story, just kind of ironic that you're pointing the finger at someone for doing something that your entire company is becoming famous for doing, and your company's name is a misconstruction of a song that's about hypocrisy.

Last I checked it was you that was dragged into this thread, not your entire posse. :dunno:

Your last sentence reminds me of this:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g236/salija/or_the_bunny_dies.gif

I'm not taking any of this personal, I hope you're not Charles.

Not a breaking news story, just kind of ironic that you're pointing the finger at someone for doing something that your entire company is becoming famous for doing, and your company's name is a misconstruction of a song that's about hypocrisy.

Last I checked it was you that was dragged into this thread, not your entire posse. :dunno:

Your last sentence reminds me of this:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g236/salija/or_the_bunny_dies.gif

I'm not taking any of this personal, I hope you're not Charles.

Definitely not taking it personal, G. The sad part is that the entire time I was doing all I could for those with the Pettit S/C Kit (such as cost+shipping on Snow alky products, NGK Racing spark plugs, and whatever else I could pass on at no profit to BHR) I was the "good guy". Now that I have decided to put 100% of my own passions into my efforts by retiring from Ford Motor and starting BHR (which passions also require me to charge a fee for that which I choose to provide the RX-8 community) I am now the "bad guy" around here.

Every now and then many of us get into these tangles and heatedly debate our perspectives and, although it is discomforting much of the time, I am not going to allow them to taint the personal views I hold of the people with whom I am a fellow member of the RX8Club website. We can all be friends and, as I have already done, when you clearly articulate your position and it is based on your individual perspective(s) I will respect that and often agree. Even if it puts BHR in a less-than-ideal spotlight.

Yes, I have been known to screw up from time to time and, being human, I am sure I have many more mistakes for which I will have to assume responsibility. This particular matter is not one of them.

All of you are free to hold your opinions of BHR as you wish and I understand from where many of your frustrations come. But I refuse to be lectured by an extreme minority of people on this forum as to how I am to run BHR and who I choose to be part of my team. Many people fail to see the inherent arrogance they hold when they feel compelled to PM me and give me "constructive criticism", "guidance", and what have you while never even asking the simplest of questions of me.

BTW, G, your're no innocent bunny.;)

p.s. I JUST noticed (2.5 hrs. later!) that the gun in that illustration is an orange-tipped toy gun. THAT is some masterful imagery and analogy my Man! :lol2:

Do we have an ignore function?

Why carry this over to another forum. All you have to do is go to the user control panel and click on edit ignore list and enter their name. In the past I used it once for someone on this particular thread and since them had second thoughts and removed it. Just indicate the peeps you don't want to deal with and you will not be bothered by them. I don't even bother reading the quips that anyone posts here that does not deal with the Pettit supercharger or the questions back a forth on the mods to improve the s/c experience.

I have been involved with various forums with my work and local clubs. They all seem to succumb to infighting. Must be human nature. Again I ask that you all just stay here and talk to those you choose.

All you have to do is go to the user control panel and click on edit ignore list and enter their name.

Much better, thanks.
:)

I miss Denny already........gonna ask a question and he's not there. Did not know he was mad at me to.

Why was he mad at you too?

I think he was just over the whole gig.... maybe he'll cool off - nothing really worth getting that worked up over IMO.

Why was he mad at you too?

I think he was just over the whole gig.... maybe he'll cool off - nothing really worth getting that worked up over IMO.
Don't know why cuz we did PM a lot back and forth a lot. I hope he does cool off.

Phil and all--I am in no way upset with any of you. Its been great. It is only Jeff. After about 5 yrs on this forum and seeing what it is turning into did I make the decision to leave.
I am only posting now because I want the good people I have spoken with and some that I have met to understand that it has nothing to do with them at all.
It has come to the point that if i post anything-- certain folks seem to follow me around and try to critize/discredit me at every point and I am just tired of the game.
This forum should be fun and relaxing, but it got to the point that before I wrote anything I was thinking "OK, will this step on anyones toes? WIll this be an arguementive point" Stops being fun and starts being work. I have enough of work!
Seems also that if any of your ideas or findings are contary to a certain vendor then all hell breaks loose.
If i can help anyone --just pm me. I do have some new info concerning running deisal oil in our cars. Its a good thing. I am sure someone may tell me I am crazy about that also.lol
Olddragger

You should stick around and put those people on ignore and even if they respond to you just keep going...

Phil and all--I am in no way upset with any of you. Its been great. It is only Jeff. After about 5 yrs on this forum and seeing what it is turning into did I make the decision to leave.
I am only posting now because I want the good people I have spoken with and some that I have met to understand that it has nothing to do with them at all.
It has come to the point that if i post anything-- certain folks seem to follow me around and try to critize/discredit me at every point and I am just tired of the game.
This forum should be fun and relaxing, but it got to the point that before I wrote anything I was thinking "OK, will this step on anyones toes? WIll this be an arguementive point" Stops being fun and starts being work. I have enough of work!
Seems also that if any of your ideas or findings are contary to a certain vendor then all hell breaks loose.
If i can help anyone --just pm me. I do have some new info concerning running deisal oil in our cars. Its a good thing. I am sure someone may tell me I am crazy about that also.lol
Olddragger

Denny,

Just ignore him. He's becoming more of a joke, and I'm entertained by his ignorance almost as much as by the dozens of folks on this forum that think he's the god of tuning. Regardless of how many AccessPorts he has sold, he's still an amateur at best. The way he presents himself on this forum only reinforces it. I think people back him up for the same reason they backed up Mazsport. I'm pretty sure if a less assholish tuner presented himself he would be welcomed with parades of marching bands and convertible RX-8s filled with hot topless women.

Don't waste your time arguing with him.

It is only Jeff.

That's excellent.

certain folks seem to follow me around and try to critize/discredit me at every point and I am just tired of the game.

Pretty self-absorbed to think that you are the only one that gets "followed around", isn't it?
No one is particularly interested in "discrediting" you (at least I'm not - I'm not interested in the individual, just the idea). But you have to be willing to stand up for what you assert.

but it got to the point that before I wrote anything I was thinking "OK, will this step on anyones toes? WIll this be an arguementive point" Stops being fun and starts being work.


Doesn't it? Those of us that spend a lot of time with these things have to deal with that all the time. Its a lot of work back up your ideas and the things you assert.

Seems also that if any of your ideas or findings are contary to a certain vendor then all hell breaks loose.


That statement is probably a good indicator of why you are having such a hard time with all of this.
There is no "certain vendor" that has taken this on. Its just me. You said it yourself in the opening statement.

Feel free to put me on ignore and keep making baseless assertions. I'll continue to clean up after you, whether or not it does you any good.


[[And remember - all you need to do to make me leave you alone again in here is to stop using my name or making any reference to the things I say or do in this thread. Its that simple.]]

That's excellent.
glad you agree--Good moods and Geodon does wonders!

Pretty self-absorbed to think that you are the only one that gets "followed around", isn't it?
No one is particularly interested in "discrediting" you (at least I'm not - I'm not interested in the individual, just the idea). But you have to be willing to stand up for what you assert.

cant stand--i dont have any legs

Doesn't it? Those of us that spend a lot of time with these things have to deal with that all the time. Its a lot of work back up your ideas and the things you assert.
wait! have you had too much to drink--you do know you agreed with me? I'm dizzy! Help me someone---.

That statement is probably a good indicator of why you are having such a hard time with all of this.
There is no "certain vendor" that has taken this on. Its just me. You said it yourself in the opening statement.
Hard time with what?

"I'll continue to clean up after you, whether or not it does you any good."

I guess that kind of sums it up. Thank God I have Mazda Maniac cleaning up the mess's I made.Whether or not it does me any good. The forum is certainly blessed to have such a "father figure" around. Wow Mazda Maniac is a member of Big Brothers!!! This changes everything!

Yall have fun--to my friends you now have my e mail etc --if I can help anyone just give me a holler.
olddragger

jeez, I post a nice vid up, and then seconds later there is like 6 pages of flame hell!

jeez, I post a nice vid up, and then seconds later there is like 6 pages of flame hell!

Yeah good point.... maybe you're to blame...:rofl:

Wow, who let the trolls in?
Has the thread died completely?:mchase:
Everyone just disgusted?:puke:

Sounds like it's time for invite only threads.
:dunno:

It wasn't my fault! Honest!

Here's that video again. Stand back and see if the war kicks off!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO0LfBmhM1Q

WTF?

What the hell is going on in here? I woke up this morning to find my perenially empty inbox full of PMs from Charles Hill, Jeff, some guy going by Night-something-or-another,
Bastage, a bunch of others all with BHR logos, all accusing me of providing the car in this video with a copy of the map off my car which I downloaded off a torrent site known for pics of girl/girl hotness, apparently accidently uploaded when the chick porn was downloaded, threats of being hung by *patented* ignition harnesses with NGK trailing plugs stuck up me bum, and whether or not there should be a generalized boycott of all lesbian porn sites (like, right, thats gonna happen ), among other issues too lengthy and less interesting to cover here, most of which had to do with actual car stuff...something about superchargers, it'll take me a while to sort it out.

And where the hell's Denny?

It wasn't my fault! Honest!

Here's that video again. Stand back and see if the war kicks off!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO0LfBmhM1Q

It was my fault and I'm not just sayin! Sorry guys! Really am.

Beatle Juice, Beatle Juice, Beatle Juice -- whoops -- wrong name. Don't anybody invoke the other name that shall not be repeated for fear of flame hell and I think all will be alright.

Check out my youtube video of Hot Import Nights dyno pull too -- Its been posted before, but its still a goodie even though my car only made 250rwhp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjfrVwrCX1E

I post one little 172 MAF reading jpeg, and get "TurboTrolled"!

LOL....

in speaking with Cam--he advises no screens, no velocity pipes(aka racing beats) etc. The maf is tuned for the pipe and the filter where it is now. Any changes at your on risk.
Filters? He said stick with K&N, size should not matter as far as the tune is concerned--he is familar with flow patterns etc of the k&N's. A bigger filter that is maf friendly may help a little up top. I am going to try the K&N RF-1033.
Now cold air is ok if it is delivered to the filter--Juan tried a true cai once and had to abandon it because of abberant a/f's readings.
here is a formula for getting the surface area of a cone
get the surface area of the base --surface area of the base is equal to pie R2 , the lateral surface area is = to pieRslant height of the cone --add the 2 and that is the surface area.
Some one want to try?
olddragger

hey guys, I have the same K&N also and love it, I could not find a good deal on ebay so I found a discount coupon here: K&N RF-1033 (http://airintakeandfilter.com/product.php?productid=2795), or you can try one of the vendors on the forum here, you can usually find a good deal that way as well. This was very easy to install and I love it. :):)

It wasn't my fault! Honest!

Here's that video again. Stand back and see if the war kicks off!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO0LfBmhM1Q

I don't care who you are - that sound is sooooo cool.

I TOTALLY agree. It brings a smile to my face every time I hear it. And I love the fact it sounds totally normal without boost. Then Wheeeeeeeeee!

Wow, I just read this whole thread and all I have to say is GDHSF!

WTF?

What the hell is going on in here? I woke up this morning to find my perenially empty inbox full of PMs from Charles Hill, Jeff, some guy going by Night-something-or-another,
Bastage, a bunch of others all with BHR logos, all accusing me of providing the car in this video with a copy of the map off my car which I downloaded off a torrent site known for pics of girl/girl hotness, apparently accidently uploaded when the chick porn was downloaded, threats of being hung by *patented* ignition harnesses with NGK trailing plugs stuck up me bum, and whether or not there should be a generalized boycott of all lesbian porn sites (like, right, thats gonna happen ), among other issues too lengthy and less interesting to cover here, most of which had to do with actual car stuff...something about superchargers, it'll take me a while to sort it out.

And where the hell's Denny?

Sorry, Wes, you and I haven't PM'd in about a year so I don't know WHO that could have been. :dunno:

Sorry, Wes, you and I haven't PM'd in about a year so I don't know WHO that could have been. :dunno:

Just keep those trailing plugs away from me, Charles:eek:

Just sayin, man, just sayin:smoker:

(Note: the above post was made totally with tongue in cheek humor. It was in no way meant to offend any person living or dead.

OK, well, maybe one:evil_laug

But not you, Charles:worship: )

If anyone else doesn't mind, I'd like to get back to our regularly scheduled forum...

Thinking of something in this general arena:

I like it Wess, looks great.

Thinking of something in this general arena:

Nice rims :Eyecrazy:

Thanks guys. This thing is cherry. Owned by a detail/car show addict who only drove it to shows on Sundays.

No joke:yesnod:

Moon, going through it right now; the OBX header has a leak; don't know if its the header or the gasket, but it's going away. The O2 sensor mount is wierd and throws the a/f readings off. I got the stock header with the car, so as soon as it's jet coated, its' going on. Once I'm satisfied all the basics are up to spec, Moon, we'll put a blower in this baby.

Rims are nice, but this car understeers compared to my other one.Oh well, all things in time. Nice to have these kind of "problems":beer:

There was some interesting things going on a few dozen pages ago in regards to fabbing CAIs for our kit. As far as I know, only 2 or 3 of you guys have done this(correct me if i'm wrong. I haven't been on the forum for a while).

For those that have, is there any consensus on whether there are improvements(more accurate MAF, cooler temps, higher flow, etc...)

If so, what is the easiest way to make my own?

-Yambo

Rote8 was making his own out of 3" piping, and Denny was playing with filter sizes, unfortunately Denny is no longer with us, if you would like his email pm me..

There was some interesting things going on a few dozen pages ago in regards to fabbing CAIs for our kit. As far as I know, only 2 or 3 of you guys have done this(correct me if i'm wrong. I haven't been on the forum for a while).

For those that have, is there any consensus on whether there are improvements(more accurate MAF, cooler temps, higher flow, etc...)

If so, what is the easiest way to make my own?

-Yambo

If you start posting 370+ MAF readings, you get turbo-trolled..... :dunno:
(update: I only posted a 365 one, highest MAF I have seen was 374)


My ($90.00) cold air works good, with massive MAF readings, but mine wouldn't be good for rain or puddles of standing water on the road.
I bought two OBX 3.5 inch mandrel bends and cut them to length, then used two Turbonetics 3.5 x 2 inch hose connectors to hold them together and to my MAF.
My filter (8.5 Long x 5 Diameter ) now lays on the plastic "tray" in front of the inter-cooler.

If you dig back to right before the massive trollfest, you can see the pics of the MAF readings.
:rolleyes:

Here's the 365 MAF reading from earlier:

how bout pics of the pipe, without the duct tape of course,,,

Here are a couple of shots, I will make more when the humidity goes down outside (camera fogs). I am also planning on insulating the cold air tube with sticky backed DEI stuff soon.
The path is not perfectly straight (yet), but straightening will require cutting the hole (more than I did) on the plastic tray and it is possible I need to enlarge the hole in front firewall where the VFAD went.

/Since it works pretty well as is, it's not a high priority to straighten. :dunno:

looks good. do you have screens in there?

Looks great Rote8... I wanna see some pics of it when it leaves the engine bay.

looks good. do you have screens in there?

No, I did not install any screens. (yet)

I do still have the stock air box screens somewhere, I think those are 4 inch diameter screens and my pipe is 3.5.

Looks great Rote8... I wanna see some pics of it when it leaves the engine bay.

Here are some quick pictures, (and a funny Vette mirror I saw at Cars and Cafe)

wow thats low! isnt it a water vacuum!

Im wondering why you didnt do a pipe to locate the filter above the bumper bar like in this pic...

http://f.imagehost.org/0727/cai1_1.jpg (http://f.imagehost.org/view/0727/cai1_1)

I would think there's more air (and water :) ) to be had the way Norman's CAI is setup. I try not to drive my 8 when it rains anyway, so I'll probably do it his way, but initially I thought he would set it up ^ that way when he first mentioned he was going to build a CAI.

see Im of the belief the the turbulant air is too much plus the exposure to debris, the location I posted I think would be fine, the most important thing being that is outside of the engine bay.

Here are some quick pictures, )

you will definately regret that location every time it rains ....

you will definately regret that location every time it rains ....
Ok then where would you stick it?

Im wondering why you didnt do a pipe to locate the filter above the bumper bar like in this pic...

http://f.imagehost.org/0727/cai1_1.jpg (http://f.imagehost.org/view/0727/cai1_1)

I like that, I just followed the AEM/Mazda speed location. (or so I thought)
:lol:
/I think mine gets colder air...

Ok then where would you stick it?


same spot as in above photo . I have mine in this location and can tell you that I still have the odd issue from water on the maf . Car runs like crap till it clears itself.

Mine seems to like less water injection when it rains.
I have a 60 nozzle before the S/C and a 175 on "the hump", so yeah, I have too much water/methanol..

try one of these Rote8
AEMs bypassvlve, when water or other stuff clogs or blocks the filter this picks up the load and keeps the constant suction, you can put this right outside the engine bay before your 90 degree bend,,,
http://www.speedstash.com/aem/aem_bypass_valve.html

http://f.imagehost.org/0817/aem-1044-l_1.jpg (http://f.imagehost.org/view/0817/aem-1044-l_1)

3" outlets $50

try one of these Rote8
AEMs bypassvlve, when water or other stuff clogs or blocks the filter this picks up the load and keeps the constant suction, you can put this right outside the engine bay before your 90 degree bend,,,
3" outlets $50

Yeah, but they don't make a 3.5 inch one.:crying:

The AEM/Mazda speed for the stock 8 uses a 3 inch pipe, I went with 3.5 all the way. (same size as the MAF)

I'm back:)
just missed you fellows too damn much and the wife insisted ------- seems like I started bugging her ? I will try to behave---------maybe.
Anyway--lot of thought and effort into that cai dude. Neat setup. I have a ca pick up to the filter/airbox area. I am just wondering what kind of intake(post s.c.) temp difference is there? Doesnt most of our intake heat come from heat soak and that generated by the s.c.?

By the way --the latest development up this way is
1: more are installing the 2nd radiator
2- we are using diesel motor oil 15w/40 --I use Valvoline blue --go to the Ga rx8 club and read all the findings--seems like Rick Igram has always spoken well of using this!
3- take the knock sensor off your engine--wrap it in foam and mount it elsewhere--damn thing is useless anyway. remember Racing Beat had to remove it when they were hacking the pcm tune because it was interfering to much(without reason).
Ahhh--good to be back:)
olddragger

Hey guys. Well my install is officially underway. Have everything taken apart and just got to modifying the wire harness. I'm following the Pettit supplied instructions and they seem to be very detailed and well laid out. Now I have one question for you. What is the point of modifying the harness. Maybe I missed it somewhere and its buried somewhere in this thread, Im only up to page 125, but I really have no clue. I have the BHR coils btw, should anything be done differently?
Im hoping to have everything done by next week :) Cant wait.
Here's a couple progress pics.

Hey guys. Well my install is officially underway. Have everything taken apart and just got to modifying the wire harness. I'm following the Pettit supplied instructions and they seem to be very detailed and well laid out. Now I have one question for you. What is the point of modifying the harness. Maybe I missed it somewhere and its buried somewhere in this thread, Im only up to page 125, but I really have no clue. I have the BHR coils btw, should anything be done differently?
Im hoping to have everything done by next week :) Cant wait.
Here's a couple progress pics.

Some tips: (Others will correct me on these, but I think most of us agree with these)

Get some sticky-backed heat insulation to wrap the blower and keep engine heat off the blower.
(The blower can also use an extra heat proof panel between the engine and the blower itself.)

A larger water tank for the inter-cooler helps.

The BHR coils are going to be great, I have the MSD 4287 coils with another wire kit and fabricated my own coil mount.

Look on the bottom center of the stock lower intake manifold, you will see a metal tube that connects to a rubber hose, plug both metal pipes that the rubber hose ends connects to.
(The pipe is the "Jet-Air" nozzles, in a stock engine they connect to the intake manifold vacuum and add turbulence to keep fuel from puddling, supercharged engines do not need this.)

Good luck, post the progress.
:ylsuper:

(The pipe is the "Jet-Air" nozzles, in a stock engine they connect to the intake manifold vacuum and add turbulence to keep fuel from puddling, supercharged engines do not need this.)


Actually, if they connect to Manifold Vacuum, then they would not do anything. They in fact connect to the intake before the throttle body, and after the MAF. This means that they are at Atmospheric pressure, and when the engine is not under load (i.e. idle and light cruise) the manifold vacuum at the ports draws in air through the jets. The MAF of course is measuring the air as it is part of the combustion.

A supercharged engine still is in manifold vacuum at idle and light load, therefore these can still be functional if one chooses. Under load (i.e. no manifold vacuum), they don't really do much, apart from letting in more air to make more power, which is what we want, yeah? I prefer to leave them functional. Mazda must have spent a million dollars developing them for some reason!

Cheers,
Hymee.

I have skimmed through this thread and tried to find an answer but if anyone could help out I would appreciate it. Does anyone know what the max safe boost would be for a Pettit sc with mazsport ignition, cobb access port tuning and upgraded injectors using 93 octane?
Thanks for any info.

Hey, nice hearing from you.

Actually, if they connect to Manifold Vacuum, then they would not do anything. They in fact connect to the intake before the throttle body, and after the MAF.

Huh?
Maybe you meant after the throttle body and before the MAF?
I found a little more boost by blocking them.
The plumbing for the Pettit kit connects the Jet air to the OMP oil injection distribution block, and then connects both of these to the right side of the MAF, about even with the MAF sensor.


This means that they are at Atmospheric pressure, and when the engine is not under load (i.e. idle and light cruise) the manifold vacuum at the ports draws in air through the jets. The MAF of course is measuring the air as it is part of the combustion.

A supercharged engine still is in manifold vacuum at idle and light load, therefore these can still be functional if one chooses. Under load (i.e. no manifold vacuum), they don't really do much, apart from letting in more air to make more power, which is what we want, yeah? I prefer to leave them functional. Mazda must have spent a million dollars developing them for some reason!

Cheers,
Hymee.

True, I am sure they do help at idle, but leak a small amount of boost to the MAF under high boost.

I have skimmed through this thread and tried to find an answer but if anyone could help out I would appreciate it. Does anyone know what the max safe boost would be for a Pettit sc with mazsport ignition, cobb access port tuning and upgraded injectors using 93 octane?
Thanks for any info.

"Safe" boost is 0 psi :lol:
Sane is between 5 and 8
The larger crank pulley for the Pettit kit can make 13 to 15.

What is safe for your engine totally depends on your tune.
Too little fuel or too much timing advance for your amount of boost will cause detonation, which kills apex seals very fast.

Huh?
Maybe you meant after the throttle body and before the MAF?


No, I didn't mean that. They really do connect to the intake bellows which is after the MAF and before the Throttle body.

Yes, in FI you could get a boost leak back to the bellows when you go positive. Perhaps putting a non-return valve there so we can get the best of both worlds is the answer.

What is safe for your engine totally depends on your tune.
Too little fuel or too much timing advance for your amount of boost will cause detonation, which kills apex seals very fast.

That is the most important thing for all of this. In the end, it doesn't matter what kit is making the boost, if the engine "blows up", it is because the tune was not right. The engine by its very nature is trying to blow itself up, the tune is trying to manage that. It comes down to greed in the end.

Cheers,
Hymee.

"Safe" boost is 0 psi :lol:


Actually, I really love that quote, but come to think of it, it is only as safe as the tune still. If the tune if too greedy (lean, advanced), even in NA, then your gunna have melted parts.

I read good quote the other day...

... too rich only costs you a set of spark plugs, too lean costs you an engine...

Cheers,
Hymee.

No, I didn't mean that. They really do connect to the intake bellows which is after the MAF and before the Throttle body.

Yes, in FI you could get a boost leak back to the bellows when you go positive. Perhaps putting a non-return valve there so we can get the best of both worlds is the answer.

Ah, it's the big endian vs little endian.
I was looking at it from the engines point of view, you were looking from the atmosphere view.

Regardless of which end comes first, our plumbing design has the Jet Air/OMP line going into the MAF tube just about even with the MAF sensor. (using the Pettit MAF tube)
I though boost from the lower intake going into the MAF tube was a bad idea, and one Mazda never intended in the design of the Jet-Air.
Maybe we do need a one-way valve; to stop boost leak at high boost, but still allow air to flow from the MAF into the Jet-Air nozzles at idle.
I think one like in the brake booster would work nicely.

That is the most important thing for all of this. In the end, it doesn't matter what kit is making the boost, if the engine "blows up", it is because the tune was not right. The engine by its very nature is trying to blow itself up, the tune is trying to manage that. It comes down to greed in the end.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Speaking of greed; Have you tried nitromethane in methanol injection? (Yes, no water)
It leans the air fuel mixture and adds octane. (be sure you have no leaks first, as this stuff is extremely flammable; and burns invisible too.)
The most awesome mix I used was 40% nitro and 60% methanol.
I was driving and saw water coming from under my hood, the intake was icing and water was condensing onto the intake. (Not something to do everyday)

It will wear spark plug tips !!! (and probably apex seals)

welcome pettit owner--nice shop for the install. the harness mod is to insure proper lenght for the ig coil connectors and to remove some wiring from underneath the s.c. other correct me if i am wrong?
-hints other than the good ones already listed:
1- get rid of the pigtail oem ig coil ground (4 to one wore) use a pigger gauge wire to solder the coils grounds too and install a ring connector and then bolt to a good ground spot.
mazsport coils will die on you at some point and cause probs--happened to me. i went with the ls2--not the yukons--because the ls2 are more favorable to the oem coil dwell times which are

Re: RX-8 coils dwell
Volts Dwell
8 9.5
9 7.7
10 5.9
11 4.9
12 4.2
13 3.7
14 3.3
15 2.9

2- close off the jet air if i am not wrong its only purpose is to prevent "pooling" of the gas during idle. since the pettit system idles around 1200rpm it's purpose is mute? If you can get your intake off --then remove it altogether and use jb weild to smooth out the areas it was in--you will be glad.
3- disable the vad --we dont use it and once again if you can get the lower intake off ---close all that area up--it is NOT a prefect seal there.
4- use pry bar to adjust s.c. belt tension not the idler arm adjustment bolt---using that bolt can cause a slight misalignment.
5- check the big allen head bolt on the front of the s.c. pulley to make sure it is tight
6- you MAY want to do a remote oil filter--you dont have too but it does make it nicer
7- wrap the exhaust header --well. you can wrap it and then replace the aluminum oem shield on top of the wrap.
8-- I used the Moroso mustang s.c. a/w coolant tank--holds about a gallon--check my posts and you can get it through Summit Racing. You will have to fabricate a little shelf for it to set on. also drill a little vent hole in the cap.
9- you do have a water meth system---right?
10-- do cooling mods according to area of the country you live in (hot or cold)
11-- i use diesel oil for the engine 15/40w Valvoline blue--do some research.
12 do install an oil catch can especially if you are going to track
thats enough for now--hope this stuff can be of help to ya

oh by the way --i may go with the big pulley:) With new injectors of coarse. I have to call Cam next week to se what he says--my only concern is how this will affect being on the track--if the exhaust ports etc can take this amount of boost for that long. X fingers.
olddragger

welcome pettit owner--nice shop for the install. the harness mod is to insure proper lenght for the ig coil connectors and to remove some wiring from underneath the s.c. other correct me if i am wrong?
-hints other than the good ones already listed:
1- get rid of the pigtail oem ig coil ground (4 to one wore) use a pigger gauge wire to solder the coils grounds too and install a ring connector and then bolt to a good ground spot.
mazsport coils will die on you at some point and cause probs--happened to me. i went with the ls2--not the yukons--because the ls2 are more favorable to the oem coil dwell times which are

Re: RX-8 coils dwell
Volts Dwell
8 9.5
9 7.7
10 5.9
11 4.9
12 4.2
13 3.7
14 3.3
15 2.9

2- close off the jet air if i am not wrong its only purpose is to prevent "pooling" of the gas during idle. since the pettit system idles around 1200rpm it's purpose is mute? If you can get your intake off --then remove it altogether and use jb weild to smooth out the areas it was in--you will be glad.
3- disable the vad --we dont use it and once again if you can get the lower intake off ---close all that area up--it is NOT a prefect seal there.
4- use pry bar to adjust s.c. belt tension not the idler arm adjustment bolt---using that bolt can cause a slight misalignment.
5- check the big allen head bolt on the front of the s.c. pulley to make sure it is tight
6- you MAY want to do a remote oil filter--you dont have too but it does make it nicer
7- wrap the exhaust header --well. you can wrap it and then replace the aluminum oem shield on top of the wrap.
8-- I used the Moroso mustang s.c. a/w coolant tank--holds about a gallon--check my posts and you can get it through Summit Racing. You will have to fabricate a little shelf for it to set on. also drill a little vent hole in the cap.
9- you do have a water meth system---right?
10-- do cooling mods according to area of the country you live in (hot or cold)
11-- i use diesel oil for the engine 15/40w Valvoline blue--do some research.
12 do install an oil catch can especially if you are going to track
thats enough for now--hope this stuff can be of help to ya


HI !!! :ylsuper:

you didn't talk of the fuel pump :)

to give some news I finished everything thanks to the all of you :Wconfused
my car idle and is much more powerfull then ever...I totally smoked a audi s3on 1/4 miles :SHOCKED:

now I only need to change my fuel filter (I got it but I am going to borrow the Opener Tool) because my system run lean under 6k RPM

I still have all my sensor in place ....

but I was wondering about bying those parts (laile the brand) :
thise one for cooling the engine bay:
under panel (http://www.japanparts.com/images/ImageFromDB.php?base=1&no=15740)
those one because the autoexe are too much heavy
REAR PERFORMANCE BAR (http://www.japanparts.com/images/ImageFromDB.php?base=1&no=15744)
P.P.F. PERFORMANCE BAR (http://www.japanparts.com/images/ImageFromDB.php?base=1&no=15745)

need your advices :scratchhe

thanks:p:

The tranny brace is a nice track day addition, but be warned it transfers all the vibration and noise from the powertain to the frame, it is just about the loudest and most annoying thing you could imagine, after I put mine on and drove it a couple blocks I thought my car was falling apart. I turned right back around and took it off, it is great for a track not great or needed for DD....

You might want to look into ordering the Pettit secondary rads that are built into the floor pan,,,

You might want to look into ordering the Pettit secondary rads that are built into the floor pan,,,

I looked on the pettit website and didn't found what you are talking about ...

I saw some picts that some of the club members put the intercooler on the underpanel ... wondering about water ?!

I like the Laile underpanel because I really need to cool down my engine temps

Call Cam about the underpanel rads,,, they are not on his site, but hes installed them on several cars now and with great results...

the underpanel will not cool the engine. it is only for protection of the pan and the streamlining affect for under the car (with the other underpanels)
Glad your car is running well!!
OD

Speaking of greed; Have you tried nitromethane in methanol injection? (Yes, no water)
It leans the air fuel mixture and adds octane. (be sure you have no leaks first, as this stuff is extremely flammable; and burns invisible too.)
....
It will wear spark plug tips !!! (and probably apex seals)

Shouldn't that read "speaking of the urge to commit suicide!"?

I love the idea of adding high explosive flammable invisible stuff to my hot engine bay! (no 'get rid of the petrol then' jokes please)

Shouldn't that read "speaking of the urge to commit suicide!"?

I love the idea of adding high explosive flammable invisible stuff to my hot engine bay! (no 'get rid of the petrol then' jokes please)

A lot of people run straight methanol in water methanol systems, I do use braided steel lines and have no leaks.
Like I said, I do not run it every day, but for a little extra kick, it works.
:ylsuper:

"Safe" boost is 0 psi :lol:
Sane is between 5 and 8
The larger crank pulley for the Pettit kit can make 13 to 15.

What is safe for your engine totally depends on your tune.
Too little fuel or too much timing advance for your amount of boost will cause detonation, which kills apex seals very fast.

I understand too rich, too lean and detonation. I was meaning with a proper tune on 93 octane and no methanol injection what would the max daily drivin boost be on our motors with the pettit? I have seen some people with 12 psi making 327 rwhp and 217 tq but his info says he has methanol. I dont know if it was being used but do you guys think it would be fine to run 12 psi daily? I see Hymee runs 13 psi and I like the kit but Its a little more expensive and much more involved for an install so I wanted to keep it a little simpler for me to install it myself.

Hymee do you have a rear wheel hp dyno? I'm still not sure what our loss is exactly to the tires (guessing 17%).

I understand too rich, too lean and detonation. I was meaning with a proper tune on 93 octane and no methanol injection what would the max daily drivin boost be on our motors with the pettit? I have seen some people with 12 psi making 327 rwhp and 217 tq but his info says he has methanol. I dont know if it was being used but do you guys think it would be fine to run 12 psi daily? I see Hymee runs 13 psi and I like the kit but Its a little more expensive and much more involved for an install so I wanted to keep it a little simpler for me to install it myself.

Hymee do you have a rear wheel hp dyno? I'm still not sure what our loss is exactly to the tires (guessing 17%).

Both supercharger kits should make about the same power, it is all in the tune.

I think Hymee's kit uses the same blower (as Pettit) with an air to air inter-cooler, where the Pettit kit is water to air.
The Hymee kit is gorgeous, with nice billet parts, and the stock engine cover still fits.

There are three of us in the Central Florida area running the Pettit kit with the high boost pulley.
We do not "tune for methanol", Juan's methanol kills some power.
The real advantage to methanol is when you are in a hot dyno room; we use methanol on the street as insurance.
Sometimes gas station owner's fill the 93 octane under ground tank with 87 octane fuel.

the underpanel will not cool the engine. it is only for protection of the pan and the streamlining affect for under the car (with the other underpanels)
Glad your car is running well!!
OD
on the Laile website, they said that their underpanel does cool the engine bay just look at the following picts ...

http://www.japanparts.com/images/ImageFromDB.php?base=1&no=22406

I really need to find a way to cool down my engine bay because I did 2 1/4miles run and I ahd to stop it to let it get cooler...I live in a very hot country (caribbean islands)

hey what island--i lived in Jamaica for a number of years in the 70's?
I may stand corrected on the underpanel thing--interesting. what I have done to try and help cool the engine /engine bay is to install the secondary radiator(see my posts on this) insulted the airbox tray and around the overflow radiator bottle, installed a fresh air intake that blows onto the airbox and a/w resorvir bottle, run a 70/30 coolant blend (water to antifreeze), mazmart waterpump, wrap the exhaust header, took the front rotor symbol out(blocks airflow)
you do have real gauges? want is you coolant temps showing?
you do need a water meth injection system.

Rocketman- i dont know max boost--i do know we use the w/m for the reason already said,, insure octane and cooling of the intake charge temps(much different than the intake temps as you probably already know). it also helps to keep the carbon at bay.
I guess it depends on what you want. i track a fair amount so at present even though my temps are really good(coolant/oil and intake charge) i dont know how the much the exhaust port would heat up with more boost. Waiting on Cam to get back with me. I get a 305 grams/ sec on the maf at 80F ambient temp at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear and i have enough power to keep me busy! So for now just running the smallest pulley
hope this helps.
olddragger

That is an extremely generic and highly inaccurate series of clip art I would not put any merrit in any of that,,,

but if you must get an underpanel check out Fluids,,, http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=163405&page=4

thanks for the link--underbody paneling may be a good thing if done right?
here is a link to a friends vid at Road Atlanta--watch the gearshift and you can see how much driveline movement there is on a NA car!! We need help?


here is a vid link showing the movement watch the gearshift at the lower part of the screen--you may be surprised.
http://garx8club.com/v3/viewtopic.ph...tart=30#p56236
OD
OD

Linky broken....

try again?
http://vimeo.com/5218353
OD

just worked for me?

nice vid OD!!

very little shiftin... :)

Well I think I finished all the wiring harness modifications but I managed to fcuk something up before. I broke one of the studs that holds the alternator bracket. It still supports the bracket but I cant get the nut on it anymore. Will post pictures tomorrow, forgot to take a camera with me. Do you think it'll hold with two studs? If not, what would you recommend on fixing this. Would easy-outs do the trick or should I just drill it out and re-tap the hole and thread in a new stud. Totally my fault, top one came out no problem, bottom one was tight, had a long extension on the wrench, yanked it, large bending moment I guess and crack there goes the stud. Anyways will work on this tomorrow, but any help appreciated.
Just to be sure I can skip the air temp mod since I'll be flashing my car, correct? Bought my kit used and no harness provided.:dunno:

Also does anyone have some conservative maps for the pro tuner, and is willing to share? I will have a base boost map from Hymee, but I would rather start with something more related to this system.
Thanks

Screw it out with vicegrips and put in a new one...

Do you think it'll come out? No crazy locktite on it? Will give it a shot. Man easiest way out and it didn't even cross my mind.
Do you know what size is btw? Can I get it at a local hardware store?

Do you think it'll come out? No crazy locktite on it? Will give it a shot. Man easiest way out and it didn't even cross my mind.
Do you know what size is btw? Can I get it at a local hardware store?

All those Alternator bracket studs are M8, as are the other water pump bolts for that matter. The two longditudinal ones on the Alternator bracket are different lengths. The top one is short at 40mm, and the lower one is long at 108mm. There is a vertical stud as well, again M8, but I don't know the length as I don't use it on my kit - the Alternator bracket is not used on mine as the alternator is held by the front mounting plate for the kit.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Both supercharger kits should make about the same power, it is all in the tune.

I think Hymee's kit uses the same blower (as Pettit) with an air to air inter-cooler, where the Pettit kit is water to air.
The Hymee kit is gorgeous, with nice billet parts, and the stock engine cover still fits.

There are three of us in the Central Florida area running the Pettit kit with the high boost pulley.
We do not "tune for methanol", Juan's methanol kills some power.
The real advantage to methanol is when you are in a hot dyno room; we use methanol on the street as insurance.
Sometimes gas station owner's fill the 93 octane under ground tank with 87 octane fuel.

What wheel HP did you achieve and what psi are you running if you don't mind my asking? I am strongly considering ordering a Pettit SC in March and am looking at around 12 psi.

Do you think it'll come out? No crazy locktite on it? Will give it a shot. Man easiest way out and it didn't even cross my mind.
Do you know what size is btw? Can I get it at a local hardware store?

You could get one at a fastener place likely....need better quality than usual hardware store type stuff. It's likely only about a $5 part from Mazda..would be worth ordering one

It should come out relatively OK....others have done it recently

Rocketman, why not start with a standard kit and go from there?

with the standard Pettit kit i pulled 305 g/sec airflow(very roughly = to hp at the wheels) at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear--my boost was approx 7lbs then rocketman. I also would suggest starting with the standard kit--get your car sorted then increase boost if you want.

Yall should I post my secondary radiator install details and results?
Sure controls engine coolant temps--ran it during all seasons not ---from 100F to 20F ambiet.
olddragger

Hey Rocket,

I agree with everyone, start with the standard kit, and build it up from there.

BTW, you'll have plenty of support from Rote8 and myself if you buy this thing. If you're interested I can give you a test ride in my car if you want to get an idea what this kit can do.

Rocketman, why not start with a standard kit and go from there?

I don't like to be standard...

I don't like the 195 rw torque and want it in the 225+ range if possible, not to mention I like the idea of making 400 flywheel hp which is what these guys at 327 rwhp are right at. I want my car to be respectable rather than a great handling car that on a hot day gets beat by a VW vr6, the car looks much faster than it is and I've dealt with that for 4 years now. I love the ride but I would like to walk away from a little more of the competition for my $7000. I'm am trying to gather as much info as possible so I don't have to change very much after my initial install.

You wont be standard you will be FI,,,
Besides Cam probably wont even sell the pulley and injectors to you outta the box,,,
He'll want you to get comfortable with the kit before boosting up...

Again just to be sure I can skip the air temp mod since I'll be flashing my car, correct? Bought my kit used and no harness provided.

So does anyone here run the protuner software?

hey I only said start....

And anyway, as Rot says you wont be standard you will be FI uber 8

hey what island--i lived in Jamaica for a number of years in the 70's?
I may stand corrected on the underpanel thing--interesting. what I have done to try and help cool the engine /engine bay is to install the secondary radiator(see my posts on this) insulted the airbox tray and around the overflow radiator bottle, installed a fresh air intake that blows onto the airbox and a/w resorvir bottle, run a 70/30 coolant blend (water to antifreeze), mazmart waterpump, wrap the exhaust header, took the front rotor symbol out(blocks airflow)
you do have real gauges? want is you coolant temps showing?
you do need a water meth injection system.
olddragger


I live in Guadeloupe , in the French West Indies (south of cuba).

when I did my run, my coolant temp was more then 110°C

I thinck I'll get the veilside Hood to let the warm air going out ;)
I like the varis ones but I do not want all the rain go into the engine bay ...

Get the AutoExe SE-03 hood,,, that hood is the shiznit,,,

What wheel HP did you achieve and what psi are you running if you don't mind my asking? I am strongly considering ordering a Pettit SC in March and am looking at around 12 psi.

My best RWHP was 297 when I was running 7-8 PSI, I cannot dyno till I get a stronger clutch.
I can slip my clutch in second. :lol:
I am looking at a stage three ceramic clutch.

I love the ride but I would like to walk away from a little more of the competition for my $7000. .

then get a turbo


runs away and hides behind a bush LOL

all due respect rocketman--get the Volkswagen on a road track with the standard kit on your car and see where he ends up--the standard kit makes the car faster than the numbers sometime indicate.

Guade--I know where that is--we used to island hop from Kingston(Jamaica) to Cuba (Gitmo)
Beautiful country---yep and it is hot.
Get the secondary radiator set up to lower your temps man AND the hood--you can install the radiator yourself---look up my version of it.
Olddragger

What wheel HP did you achieve and what psi are you running if you don't mind my asking? I am strongly considering ordering a Pettit SC in March and am looking at around 12 psi.


Friendly word: LIsten to the advice people are trying to give you here. Start with the standard kit and get it sorted first. This is a S/C, not a turbo; boost values don't translate. What matters is what you can get to the road and control. Spend time working with Pettit and Dian getting your tune right first. Manage you engine bay heat and install a meth spray. If you have a good motor, the base kit will give you all the juice this car can put to public roads, and I can tell you for a fact no VR6 will touch you.
Going to a larger pulley runs your S/C closer to its rpm limit, increases exhaust gas temps and heat soak and decreases your fuel mileage. It's not as user friendly. And if you don't believe the exhaust gas temp thing, watch this vid and look at the manifold as the engine reaches top boost:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BGGBU2Lpyo

Slow and steady, my friend. Good luck.

Some tips: (Others will correct me on these, but I think most of us agree with these)

Get some sticky-backed heat insulation to wrap the blower and keep engine heat off the blower.
(The blower can also use an extra heat proof panel between the engine and the blower itself.)
I need pix of this.....PLEASE!

A larger water tank for the inter-cooler helps.
Yes it does - works great - thanks OD

The BHR coils are going to be great, I have the MSD 4287 coils with another wire kit and fabricated my own coil mount.
I am a firm believer in the BHR coils.
Look on the bottom center of the stock lower intake manifold, you will see a metal tube that connects to a rubber hose, plug both metal pipes that the rubber hose ends connects to.
(The pipe is the "Jet-Air" nozzles, in a stock engine they connect to the intake manifold vacuum and add turbulence to keep fuel from puddling, supercharged engines do not need this.)

Good luck, post the progress.
:ylsuper:

God I hate being the only a/t 8 that keeps trying the upgrades. I purchased the upgraded pulley and was going to install it last weekend but it did not work out. It looks like next weekend as I want my tuner in my garage when it gets installed. My tuner is not real excited about the larger pulley cuz he thinks that I am already maxed on my 4 port air flow. Cam seemed to believe that I would benifit. While there is signifigant differences between the 4 and 6 port they have more in comon that different. Is there any thing that any of you with the larger pulley would offer for advise? Any changes that I need to make (besides larger injectors). I would like this to go smoothly.

Hey Phil, good luck, see what Cam and Ray say about upgrading/comverting you car to a six port, all the 07+ ATs have 6ports

lots of other things would have to change for him to up to a six port.

Well---- news!!!! I will attempting to make my own polyurethane engine mounts----stay tuned! It will be a few weeks.
OD

Well---- news!!!! I will attempting to make my own polyurethane engine mounts----stay tuned! It will be a few weeks.
OD

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=105730

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=1234858&postcount=12

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=1227780&postcount=5

Just sayin'

with the standard Pettit kit i pulled 305 g/sec airflow(very roughly = to hp at the wheels) at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear--my boost was approx 7lbs then rocketman. I also would suggest starting with the standard kit--get your car sorted then increase boost if you want.

olddragger

Do you mind elaborating more on how g/sec is equivalent to hp at the wheels and not at the crank?

Dyno results bear out that 1 g/sec is roughly .9 HP at the HP peak.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.

Dyno results bear out that 1 g/sec is roughly .9 HP at the HP peak.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.

Thanks MM for clarifying that...I have had some questions regarding the g/sec that I have been getting, and I doubt it was wheel hp that I was getting.

No one believes the deviation from a known standard thing huh??? Ah well - if we can fight over dyno's we can sure as hell fight over airflow numbers I guess.

No one believes the deviation from a known standard thing huh??? .

do you mean like if you dyno at 300 hp and 270 g/s then at 300 g/s you multiply by 300/270 for the new hp figure ?

do you mean like if you dyno at 300 hp and 270 g/s then at 300 g/s you multiply by 300/270 for the new hp figure ?

Yep... that would be the one.

X/Y = X2/Y2 and all that jazz.

I agree - too many people around here get a maf reading and compare it with somone elses maf/dyno . Does not mean jack till you put it on the dyno

I agree - too many people around here get a maf reading and compare it with somone elses maf/dyno . Does not mean jack till you put it on the dyno

Yep.
But, MAF calibration aside, the basic relationship is approximately what I stated above.
Approximately is a BIG out.

/\ makes me think my maf calibration is out up top as it was around 315g/s when i did 306whp on the dyno ...

/\ makes me think my maf calibration is out up top as it was around 315g/s when i did 306whp on the dyno ...

Yeah. It should have been a bit closer to 360 g/sec or so on a turbo car.

Yeah. It should have been a bit closer to 360 g/sec or so on a turbo car.

I just found the ve chart the other day which was set to 1 in that range so I'm thinking that had a lot to do with it .
What Ve do you use at high rpm /load ?

thanks for clarifying the maf g/sec thing--i was only only repeating something i had heard--now i know better...... Just heard!
appreciate the link to the motor mount mod. Saves me some time in trying to figue out the best way of doing it. Is 3M wIndow weld about the same as an 80A hardness? Curious as to why only one mount was done?
olddragger

Window weld?
You should only use a two-part catalyzed urethane, not a synthetic elastomer contracting cement.
Window Weld (which is no longer on the market, anyway) is an aerobic cement. It is dependent on air to cure. Making a big, solid glob of the stuff will ensure that it never gets solid. Its final durometer hardness is probably only 40 Shore at best, anyway.
The stuff I list in those links is the real deal, priced well and absolutely tested and proven.

The passenger-side mount is the one that sees the most stress, heat and compression. The driver-side mount is cooler and is stretched under high motor output torque, not compressed.
Leaving that mount flexible reduces noise and vibration transmission.

BTW - you probably won't want to bother with a motor mount modification right now. There is something significantly better currently in the testing phase that is more effective, less intrusive and easier to install.

thanks for the info-- makes sense-----i am on the track again in October--will this new product be out by then?
Will it be made of nylon?:)

new subject--has anyone done any work on the lim? I know there are casting marks in the runners that can be smoothed out, the jet air removal can be done, the vdi sealed etc, has anyone tried to improve the trumpet shape (runner taper) , applied heat shield coating.
has anyone removed the lim without pulling the engine--i think it may be able to do so by removing the apv valves before its completely removed?
doesnt the apv open fast? Can it be program to open more slowly --say over a 1K rpm range?
OD

picture request*

Can someone please post some pictures of their crank pulley and entire belt setup.
Also if possible attach them in the "manage attachments" tab on the post reply page. This is the only way I can view them at work.
Many Thanks

doesnt the apv open fast? Can it be program to open more slowly --say over a 1K rpm range?
OD

in 2nd gear it does take a good 1000rpm to open
3rd takes about 400-500 rpm
4th about 300
5th even less

Wow, new plug wires. (and colder leading plugs)
I bought the MSD ubber crimp tool to make my new wires.
MSD makes a killer wire crimper.

Gleyner and Juan, let me know when you want to crimp some new plug wires.

has anyone removed the lim without pulling the engine

I think the issue with attempting to remove the LIM without pulling the engine out is the distance the manifold has to travel out of the engine because the APV valves are inside the block.
I can't see there being enough room to pull the LIM towards the passenger side enough so the APV valves can be completely removed from the engine.

And what do you mean by:
i think it may be able to do so by removing the apv valves before its completely removed?
Are you suggestion just pulling the LIM out enough to get a wrench in between the LIM and the engine, remove the gasket/plate, and squeeze in a 8mm socket to remove the bolt attaching the APV valve to the connecting arm?

Don't mean to "butt-in" on a Pettit thread... just saw this and wondered.

It might be possible to remove the LIM with the engine essentially still in the car by removing the motor mounts and raising the motor up as far as possible with an engine hoist and/or jack on the oil pan.
I haven't tried this, so I don't know if it is actually possible.

But to lift it THAT high, you probably need to remove some/most of the hoses and accessories.
At that point, why not just keep hoisting it up and out of the car?
Unless you can hoist it up enough AND not remove the transmission, then I can see why that might be doable.

Yeah, the tranny/driveline/PPF could stay in place, which is a major plus.

Its probably a bad idea.

yes --thinking that maybe you can pull the lim far enough out to unbolt the apv valves from the lim control arms? Maybe?
I have been playing around with a lim for a little while--there are some casting stuff that can be removed inside the runners, you can seal the vdi and smooth a lot of that area out some--you can work on more of a trumpet shape in the runners, you can vent it a little, polish it, remove the jet air stuff and smooth that out and port match it and last but not least you can install a true phenolic gasket.
So I am wanting to install --but I dont want to pull the engine to do it.
Not expecting a big performance improvement--maybe a little and the heat barrier gasket cant hurt

Thanks for the info on the apv opening range--any room for improvement?
OD
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141902&stc=1&d=1247184316http
://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141903&stc=1&d=1247184393

Yeah, the tranny/driveline/PPF could stay in place, which is a major plus.

Its probably a bad idea.

Good to know because I plan on swapping a LIM this winter on another 8, so any inputs/ideas are appreciated.
Thanks Jeff.

yes --thinking that maybe you can pull the lim far enough out to unbolt the apv valves from the lim control arms? Maybe?

Probably a bad idea. You will likley dump something inflexible into the engine and begin a very bad day.


Thanks for the info on the apv opening range--any room for improvement?
OD

Not directly. Its opening rate is fixed by the gear ratio of the motor itself. It takes a fixed amount of time to open.

Not directly. Its opening rate is fixed by the gear ratio of the motor itself. It takes a fixed amount of time to open.

True. Best way would be to change the gear ratio (like the gear that moves the connecting arm?).
Which might be hard given the tiny space (unless you cut some of the material out).
But do you see ANY reason why this could benefit anything?
Why would you want it to open slower?

That would be my luck indeed--like the little bolt coming off the apv arm.
Sounds like nix on "tuning" the apv opening.
You know I am still going to try- meh--thats why God invented certain cuss words and the Marines fined tuned my talent.

Have yall thought about running diesel oil ?
olddragger

That would be my luck indeed--like the little bolt coming off the apv arm.
Sounds like nix on "tuning" the apv opening.
You know I am still going to try- meh--thats why God invented certain cuss words and the Marines fined tuned my talent.

Have yall thought about running diesel oil ?
olddragger


I think you can pull the LIM with the engine in the engine bay and connected to the transmission; everything else would be like pulling the engine.
Remove the power plant frame, both motor mounts and swivel the transmission towards the passenger side. (plus removing several wires)

You don't save much effort from pulling the engine, and still need the engine crane.

well i will have her jacked up on stands and take some measurements this w/e hopefully--if not the next,--i will have a better idea of what it will take at least. its going to be close.

i have a solution for the motor mounts!!
clean them out and insert multiple hockey pucks!!!!!
olddragger

spoke with Cam today and looks like i will be joining the "big boys club" 1st part of august!
i will be ok for track.
od

well i will have her jacked up on stands and take some measurements this w/e hopefully--if not the next,--i will have a better idea of what it will take at least. its going to be close.

i have a solution for the motor mounts!!
clean them out and insert multiple hockey pucks!!!!!
olddragger

i would think you would have to rotate the motor just a bit.

and if you are buying hockey pucks. i need two.. really! cant find them down here..

cam big boys club? and are you doing ta track day the 25th? wont be the same without you.

beers :beer:

Hey dude--nope cant do the little T--too much family stuff--we a re gathering for an assault on Road Atlanta in Oct.
OD

The passenger-side mount is the one that sees the most stress, heat and compression. The driver-side mount is cooler and is stretched under high motor output torque, not compressed.
Leaving that mount flexible reduces noise and vibration transmission.

BTW - you probably won't want to bother with a motor mount modification right now. There is something significantly better currently in the testing phase that is more effective, less intrusive and easier to install.

Are the engine damper kits worth while on saving motor mount life?

From what I hear they also impove engine responsiveness by eliminating a few milliseconds of motor twist time before the power goes to the ground.
Anyone think they are worth the money?
http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Weapon-R-25407.htm

Do all EFI Dudes come with a preinstalled map for the sc? I got my kit used and have no clue whether there is a map on it and whether I can use it on my car.

hey rocket---i havent heard anything good about the weapon r damper--some have mounted the Ingalls "stiffy" --but as others have said--its a bandaid/
i have spoken directly with someone with years of experience etc etc, and discussed my particular "problem" and he recommended stiffing the one motor mount with no higher than an 80A hardness AND a differential brace. I had not thought of that one.
Anyway the 1st week of august, this is what is happening
1- installing the bigger pulley(cam says i will be ok on the track because i have cooling under control and i am running the w/m system) with upgraded injectors
2- heat shielding the engines gas line and fuel injector railings
3- upgrading injectors of course
4- installing my worked on/polished lim(see pics earlier post) and true phenolic gasket
5- heat shielding the lim (spray on or shielding stuff--dont know yet)
6- double heat shielding the exhaust header(trying to get a Team rx8 header made)
7- motor mount mod (sourcing an old passenger side mount 1st)
8- installing a diff brace
9- installing new racing brake rotors (one piece--this are NICE)
after that--will take the wife out to eat.--Have to pay a lot of wife dues.
olddragger

go wifes!

Macius
The map that is on it is only accessible when the software is set to programmer, not logger.
The best thing I can suggest for you is to log some data, a couple hard runs in 2nd through 4th and send those to Cam have him look at them. He will decide to either just tell you that everything is OK or he may have Dian to write a new flash for you...

On another note I will be logging my session at NJMP tomorrow,, yaaahhhhhh!!!

Good luck

But can I run the car without a tune? I thought no. I already have the kit installed, but didnt run the car yet. Is it safe to drive the car without going into boost, is it even ok to turn it on? Worried about the 1.2k idle because of the sc. Sorry for all the questions. I will have a base boost map from Hymee for the protuner and will likely use that to start unless I can do something with the EFI dude for now.
How much does cam charge for the reflash? Like I said, bought the kit used so likely I'll have to pay for any tune from Pettit.
Thanks for the help.

I ran my S/C install with a stock map at first, just to see if everything worked. No need to go into boost, so with an essentially stock MAF everything should be OK to start and run. Then you can log for a short time to get the CAL ID, then get a boosted version of the map that is already in it.

Cheers,
Hymee.

if you just need to drive the car --take the s.c. belt off and you will be fine.
OD

ok i have measured that I need 3 cm of space between the lim and the engine block to removed the apv's and get the lim off without pulling the engine.
OD

She lives!!!:) Turned her on for the first time today. Fired right up and after a few minutes settled down to a 1k idle. After the initial start up everything looks ok. Should get my calibration tomorrow hopefully, then I'll take her for a spin.
I'm so excited...

Congrats!!! yep get ya tune and post pics of the install?
OD

since i will be ordering the 5 inch pulley tomorrow--what about fuel injectors--do i get the ones Cam offers--the blues, the browns, the tuddi fruities? Or can I just remove the pintle caps on the reds?
olddragger

since i will be ordering the 5 inch pulley tomorrow--what about fuel injectors--do i get the ones Cam offers--the blues, the browns, the tuddi fruities? Or can I just remove the pintle caps on the reds?
olddragger

I am running the injectors from the 4 port auto, only on the auxiliary/secondary ports of my 6 port.
Juan went with the injectors from the 2009 for the P-2 and auxiliary/secondary ports.

since i will be ordering the 5 inch pulley tomorrow--what about fuel injectors--do i get the ones Cam offers--the blues, the browns, the tuddi fruities? Or can I just remove the pintle caps on the reds?
olddragger

Taking the Ones Cam offers is a way to start easily with your new modifications...

later you may change for some more agressive stuff :)

Ok thanks guys!
OD

well its official--i have the 5 incher with Cams fuel injectors on the way. He also passed along a little hint about the fuel line.
plus i did an old school fix to my driver side motor mount--anyone know what I did?
olddragger

well its official--i have the 5 incher with Cams fuel injectors on the way. He also passed along a little hint about the fuel line.
plus i did an old school fix to my driver side motor mount--anyone know what I did?
olddragger

chains?:evil_laug

since i will be ordering the 5 inch pulley tomorrow--what about fuel injectors--do i get the ones Cam offers--the blues, the browns, the tuddi fruities? Or can I just remove the pintle caps on the reds?
olddragger


Why would you think removing the pintle caps will alter the flow? All it will do is make sealing them without a vac leak very difficult

Does anyone here have the Mazsport midpipe? Installed the thing today and my o2 sensor doesn't reach the bung. ?? any fixes for that? The brackets don't fit anymore as well. Any recommendations for aftermarket ones that will fit with the Mazport midipe?
Thanks

^There is a plastic clip/holder that secures the wire to a bracket (near the harness where you plug the O2 sensor into).
You'll need to remove that from the bracket in order for the wire to reach.
Also, you are going to the front bung, not the one between the resonators... right?

yes I did the front bung and I removed the clip but it still doesnt reach...don't know what to do for now

This might be a stupid question or the way I am looking into your question, but you said that the sensor can't reach the bung.
Are you trying to install the sensor while its still attached to the wire harness?
Because you should screw the sensor in first, then connect the harness.

the sensor has been screwed into the bung prior to installing the midpipe :) so its not attached to the harness, only to the pipe, and now it cant reach the connector

the sensor has been screwed into the bung prior to installing the midpipe :) so its not attached to the harness, only to the pipe, and now it cant reach the connector

The MazSport midpipe was not well planned, I do not know why it doesn't fit.

1) I had to cut and splice the wires on the O2 sensor to reach.
(This may be part of my tune problem with long term trims)

2) The braces have never fit, on any car with the MazSport midpipe.

Racing Beat promises a better fit, but until I see one, I won't believe it.
I suppose they may guarantee a perfect fit? :fingersx:

Racing Beat promises a better fit, but until I see one, I won't believe it.
I suppose they may guarantee a perfect fit? :fingersx:

I personally put the new Racing Beat mid-pipe on another 8 and can tell you that the fitment was perfect.
AND we were able to reinstall the two cross braces.

is the racing beat pipe out yet?

is the racing beat pipe out yet?

Yes.
Only a handful of people have it right now because they pre-ordered it.

The MazSport midpipe was not well planned, I do not know why it doesn't fit.

1) I had to cut and splice the wires on the O2 sensor to reach.
(This may be part of my tune problem with long term trims)

2) The braces have never fit, on any car with the MazSport midpipe.

Racing Beat promises a better fit, but until I see one, I won't believe it.
I suppose they may guarantee a perfect fit? :fingersx:

The Racing Beat fits better and probably cost less than what the Mazsport did as well... Wasn't it like $500 or something like that? I miss their motor mounts though:sadwavey:

My Agency Power catless dual resonated midpipe fits perfect and the O2 sensors were fine, but it is loud as hell! The pictures of it on the website don't show the dual resonators but it has them.
Nice flame show with it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTCJZLFc9Po

are you installing the secondary o2 sensor? The front sensor is unchanged---to the header.
I have to ask why are you using the secondary sensor? It does nothing except monitor the cat's effecentcy doesnt it?
I didnt use the secondary o2 sensor and i used the power source for it to go to my innovate a/f sensor--worked great--its not a switched source.

Rote 8 is tha WINNER!!!!!!
Except I used a twisted steel cable with clamps. It works pretty dogone good--i am starting a thread in the tech section on this. I dont think homemade poly mounts will work well.
OD

any dyno now ??
the hp gain may be impressive :)

are you installing the secondary o2 sensor? The front sensor is unchanged---to the header.
I have to ask why are you using the secondary sensor? It does nothing except monitor the cat's effecentcy doesnt it?
I didnt use the secondary o2 sensor and i used the power source for it to go to my innovate a/f sensor--worked great--its not a switched source.

Rote 8 is tha WINNER!!!!!!
Except I used a twisted steel cable with clamps. It works pretty dogone good--i am starting a thread in the tech section on this. I dont think homemade poly mounts will work well.
OD

BTW:
When changing the crank pulley, if it only fits two bolts out of the six.
Take the two bolts out and rotate the pulley 180 degrees.
(I fought it for 45 minutes before realizing that one.) :rofl:

that sounds like something that would happen to me also--txs--hope it is here by friday or Monday.
But i want to install my lim at the same time I do this.
OD

that sounds like something that would happen to me also--txs--hope it is here by friday or Monday.
But i want to install my lim at the same time I do this.
OD


Wish I lived further North.
The pulley is a breeze. :yesnod:
Injectors are easier the second time. :scratchhe

Where can I get the belt for the sc? Mine's in bad shape I read it somewhere on this thread but cant find it now.
thanks

Goodyear Gator Back Belt

4050325

Goodyear Gator Back Belt

4050325

4050325 - Goodyear Gator Back Belt is correct for the stock Pettit pulley.
The larger (high boost) pulley needs an inch longer belt..
4050325 - Goodyear Gator Back Belt

Summit Racing keeps them in stock.
My local AutoZone now carries these belts.

4050325 - Goodyear Gator Back Belt is correct for the stock Pettit pulley.
The larger (high boost) pulley needs an inch longer belt..
4050325 - Goodyear Gator Back Belt

Summit Racing keeps them in stock.
My local AutoZone now carries these belts.
Am I seeing the same belt number or missing something? Is there a number on the longer belt?

If someone wouldn't mind answering, what are the diameters of the two eccentric shaft pulleys? The larger one is exactly 5", correct? And the low boost diameter?

Cam told me that the same belt can be used for the bigger pulley --just adjust it out with the idler pully?
OD

Am I seeing the same belt number or missing something? Is there a number on the longer belt?

Here is "some more numbers" :scratchhe

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-4050325/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-4050335/





:dunno:

Cam told me that the same belt can be used for the bigger pulley --just adjust it out with the idler pully?
OD

I tried.
I even removed the idler pulley, but could not get the smaller belt installed.
Give it a shot. :cussing:

Figure the circumference for each pulley:
3.141592653589793 x 4.5 = 14.137166941
3.141592653589793 x 5 = 15.707963268

Subtract the smaller pulley circumference from the larger circumference
15.707963268 - 14.137166941 = 1.570796327

I am guessing the belt is in contact with 3/4 of the pulley.
1.570796327 x .75 = 1.178097245

So, about 1.2 inches larger belt.

If the belt is 1 inch longer, then looking at their number system, I'd say you would be looking for a 4050345.

I.e. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=4050345&dds=1

Cheers,
Hymee.

If the belt is 1 inch longer, then looking at their number system, I'd say you would be looking for a 4050345.

I.e. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=4050345&dds=1

Cheers,
Hymee.

Uh, no.
You want the two listed here.
Small pulley gets a 32.5 inch
Large pulley gets a 33.5 inch

Links to the correct belts on Summit Racing:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-4050325/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-4050335/


:Peace:

Does anyone use "belt dressing" (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LCT-37581/?image=large) on their supercharger belt?
Is this like Mastodon repellent?

:dunno:

Does anyone know if we could run 14-16 psi with race fuel or methanol with the Pettit? I haven't seen anyone really push the limits yet. I'm curious if it could make 350 rwhp since we've seen people with 327-330 with 12 psi.

Boost has nothing to do race fuel or meth, it has to do with the performance ceiling of the blower and its rev limits combined with the ratio from the pulleys...
The bigger pulley puts the blower very near its limits, and everyone with the kit wants to maintain reliability not see how many engines they can blow...

Boost has nothing to do race fuel or meth, it has to do with the performance ceiling of the blower and its rev limits combined with the ratio from the pulleys...
The bigger pulley puts the blower very near its limits, and everyone with the kit wants to maintain reliability not see how many engines they can blow...

Lol, thanks. Everyone gets such attitudes on here. Point has been understood though, so 13 psi must be the max efficient psi because I think I saw a few that run that.

It is a pretty good sized sc being larger than our motor at 1.7 liters so I thought maybe it would be capable of a little higher psi and with the help of higher octane fuel to avoid detonation so as not to destroy our motors, thanks.

No body has an attitude if you cant openly discuss your question dont ask it,,,

you have about 4-5 Pettit kits near you go for a ride and see if it meets your needs and expectations all the owners in your area are more than willing to take you for a ride...

yep-- the engine is a 1.3 but it moves air like a 2.6. Arent most people seeing less than 12lbs with the big pulley?
I am a little Leary of going over 10-11 myself--remember we have a 10-1 compression ratio to begin with.
the 4 port engine with the kit are seeing 14-16 lbs i think.
at the hp you are speaking about I think you will also run out of maf and you would have to rescale a good bit.
then drivetrane weakness's will start showing--the motor mounts are already starting.
olddragger

Finally took her for a little drive today, but havent gone past 6k rpm. The throttle seems much less responsive, any clue why might that be? In neutral there's a slight delay when pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. There's also a slight hissing sound during that delay. Will look at the logs before I take it to redline but any suggestions appreciated.

No body has an attitude if you cant openly discuss your question dont ask it,,,

you have about 4-5 Pettit kits near you go for a ride and see if it meets your needs and expectations all the owners in your area are more than willing to take you for a ride...

I just sensed some sarcasm about how many engines they can blow and am used to people bashing others if they don't know as much as they do. If you didn't mean it sarcasticly then I appologize. I would really like to take a ride in one of the 300+ rwhp ones. Most of my experience is with big cars with v8s or a heavy MK III turbo supra, with them if you dont have 400 hp your not very quick. I think the Supra was 3700 lbs!

Lol, thanks. Everyone gets such attitudes on here. Point has been understood though, so 13 psi must be the max efficient psi because I think I saw a few that run that.

It is a pretty good sized sc being larger than our motor at 1.7 liters so I thought maybe it would be capable of a little higher psi and with the help of higher octane fuel to avoid detonation so as not to destroy our motors, thanks.

Cam does everything safe, clearly for his tastes what he's giving you guys is safe @ those boost numbers with that unit.

That lysholm unit can produce more than 13psi on our engines. It probably needs to exceed 20,000 rpms before you need to start being concerned. Lysholms excel above 1 bar due to internal compression, whereas Roots blowers are basically limited to 1 bar based on external compression characteristics. Bottom line, if you hooked-up an external oil feed for the SC, and went with something like pure methanol, or had lower compression it would be possible.

Cam does everything safe, clearly for his tastes what he's giving you guys is safe @ those boost numbers with that unit.

That lysholm unit can produce more than 13psi on our engines. It probably needs to exceed 20,000 rpms before you need to start being concerned. Lysholms excel above 1 bar due to internal compression, whereas Roots blowers are basically limited to 1 bar based on external compression characteristics. Bottom line, if you hooked-up an external oil feed for the SC, and went with something like pure methanol, or had lower compression it would be possible.

Nice info...
I do not want to destroy my motor but I am the type to give it a try at the track with race fuel and 16 psi pulley just to see my car in the low 12's possibly;) I feel as though (if the drivetrain can hande it) at the 327 rwhp we might be able to squeeze a 12.8 on drag radials with a high 6000 rpm launch. I dont think I would want to try it more than once though.

Nice info...
I do not want to destroy my motor but I am the type to give it a try at the track with race fuel and 16 psi pulley just to see my car in the low 12's possibly;) I feel as though (if the drivetrain can hande it) at the 327 rwhp we might be able to squeeze a 12.8 on drag radials with a high 6000 rpm launch. I dont think I would want to try it more than once though.

Gotta be honest, if you don't want to destroy your motor don't give it a shot. Be happy with the power Pettit is willing to give and perform other mods to get your ETs down.

hey Rocket dude--got news for ya--cam had gotten to a 13 flat with a low boost pulley. high boost can get you to a 12.5 IF you set your car up for the strip so you can get a good launch and not break anything. Drop in a 5 speed trans so you only have to shift 3 times and you are in the mid 12's no problem.
I am willing to bet that with more dragstrip specific mods i can get a 5inch pulley car in the low 12"s .
olddragger

well it is a parasitic system, at low(idle) rpms it take s power to make power and there is a slight bogging sensation,,,

Walboro 225lph fuel pump goin in tomorrow,,,

Man forget the drag strip Im all about Road courses now!!!

hey Rocket dude--got news for ya--cam had gotten to a 13 flat with a low boost pulley. high boost can get you to a 12.5 IF you set your car up for the strip so you can get a good launch and not break anything. Drop in a 5 speed trans so you only have to shift 3 times and you are in the mid 12's no problem.
I am willing to bet that with more dragstrip specific mods i can get a 5inch pulley car in the low 12"s .
olddragger

Nice to hear! Mid-low 12's is right where I would want it. All the 13.4-13.8's are disheartning... If my car was capable of getting in the 12's I would feel a little more confident in it and not shake in my boots at the sight of a SRT8's or mustang's with bolt-ons. Olddragger I take it you will be trying this sometime in the future? Please make a video for you tube, I wish cam did one.

As far as the road course, its nice to have a car that can eat-em up in the straights as well as the corners. Wouldn't you agree?

ok took her for a another short spin. This time decided to push her a little further...about 7.5k rpm. When I let off the gas the I felt a light pulse under my break pedal and then the car completely shut off. No power steering no brakes nothing. Pulled over started back up no problem. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Any ideas to this and my previous question? Thanks

Does anyone here have the Mazsport midpipe? Installed the thing today and my o2 sensor doesn't reach the bung. ?? any fixes for that? The brackets don't fit anymore as well. Any recommendations for aftermarket ones that will fit with the Mazport midipe?
Thanks

send me a pm.

i can help you on this issue.

i have my cat laid out different than most. and it has a 28" extension on it..

plug and play.

beers :beer:

Macius
pulse under the brake peddle is the abs working? You may have an electrical issue because even if the engine quit you should still have power steering
when 1st driving the install to high rpm's it is not unusual for the engine to die at wot to idle--trims not done yet. Are you sure your fuel pump is good?
Hissing sound--all vacuum tubes etc attached correctly and sealed, oem one way valves on right?--its easy to get them mixed up.

Rocket dude --keep in mind that this chassis and drivetrane is not designed for the strip. I dont drag this car but i do have some history with other cars.
a 3K lb car with approx 400 hp at the flywheel(give or take a little) is capable of a mid 12 time. One of the problems with drag racing this car is the launch (look at the 60 ft times) and having to shift 3 times.
This car is a gem on the road circuit and that is what i do with her.
olddragger

Macius
pulse under the brake peddle is the abs working? You may have an electrical issue because even if the engine quit you should still have power steering
when 1st driving the install to high rpm's it is not unusual for the engine to die at wot to idle--trims not done yet. Are you sure your fuel pump is good?
Hissing sound--all vacuum tubes etc attached correctly and sealed, oem one way valves on right?--its easy to get them mixed up.

olddragger

I don't think it would be the ABS. Why would it react, I did not slam on the brakes. I hope it's not a electrical problem.
The engine died when I let off the gas, rpms dropped all the way to zero. It didn't die when I had my foot on the gas pedal.
I didn't touch the fuel pump. Was fine before. Could it be something with the fuel purge hose?
I will double check the vacuum tubes today, but I used hose clamps on everything, so that should be fine.
I didn't have the hissing and hesitation problem before I re flashed the pcm. Think it might be in the tune?

unlikely to be the tune unless they some how sent you a totally weird one by mistake.

More likely cross connected hoses or something loose or attached to wrong thing....

I don't think it would be the ABS. Why would it react, I did not slam on the brakes. I hope it's not a electrical problem.
The engine died when I let off the gas, rpms dropped all the way to zero. It didn't die when I had my foot on the gas pedal.
I didn't touch the fuel pump. Was fine before. Could it be something with the fuel purge hose?
I will double check the vacuum tubes today, but I used hose clamps on everything, so that should be fine.
I didn't have the hissing and hesitation problem before I re flashed the pcm. Think it might be in the tune?

Hey,
Try the obvious first.
Check the brake vacuum booster.
There should be a one way valve, and the hose feeding the booster goes into the Pettit S/C intake manifold in the only hole tapped.
My "stock" brake booster tap is used by the methanol spray nozzle, I have drilled and tapped a new tap to the top of the intake right behind the throttle body. (both positions marked in Red)

Swoope, Where do you install the cat extension?

OK, I plug my computer with hymee scanalyzer to reset the PCM because I had a CEL code : my A/F is lean...

I didn't understand...so I had a run with my computer pluged :beer05:
(I should have done this with my Efi dude).

So in fact my A/F is NEVER Lean execept under 3000RPM...wich means It is not lean of I give at least a small touch to the accelerator... but idle & when I stop accelerating it goes full lean...

May I have your advice ?:crazy:

I got a 255LPH fuel pump + clean fuel filter ... but I didn't yet install (crazy gas tank to open)..hopping it will help... :D:

Mine is running lean as well,,

As for the 225 fuel pump if you plan on cracking the assembly be ready to order the o-ring retaining clamps, they're pretty pricey about $50,,,

http://h.imagehost.org/0184/track_day1.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0184/track_day1)

http://h.imagehost.org/0578/track_day2.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0578/track_day2)

Rocket dude --keep in mind that this chassis and drivetrane is not designed for the strip. I dont drag this car but i do have some history with other cars. a 3K lb car with approx 400 hp at the flywheel(give or take a little) is capable of a mid 12 time. One of the problems with drag racing this car is the launch (look at the 60 ft times) and having to shift 3 times.
This car is a gem on the road circuit and that is what i do with her.
olddragger

I have done a few 1/4 miles myself but with piston motors, I am just curious as to what I can get out of this. I am going to start getting into some road racing once I get my car Supercharged, I think thats going to be much more enjoyable and a new thing for me.

if you ever do it once you will be hook --as much fun if not more than a 25 min drag race.

Lean at idle? No boost at idle--it will be ok on the oem settings for idle--you must have a air leak somewhere?
olddragger

Hey,
Try the obvious first.
Check the brake vacuum booster.
There should be a one way valve, and the hose feeding the booster goes into the Pettit S/C intake manifold in the only hole tapped.
My "stock" brake booster tap is used by the methanol spray nozzle, I have drilled and tapped a new tap to the top of the intake right behind the throttle body. (both positions marked in Red)

Swoope, Where do you install the cat extension?

Shit there's a one way valve on that hose? You have a picture perhaps?

Shit there's a one way valve on that hose? You have a picture perhaps?

Sounds like your putting boost into the Brake Booster (Funny irony!!)

It makes sense... If you left that one way valve off, then the reason you didn't have any brakes when the engine died was because there was no vacuum stored in the brake booster. Normally that one-way valve keeps a small resorviour of vacuum in the booster when the manifold is not in vacuum. I would suggest exactly the same thing would happen if you were NA and no one-way valve. It is only designed to allow air to be extracted from the booster, and not to let any in.

The reason you lost power steer was cause the engine died - that is normal.

As for the whistling sounds... Lots of things to start looking for.

I'm really interested in the hesitation on throttle tip in. I heard the Pettit cars did not have a problem in this area. It isn't because the blower needs power to spin it - it is already spinning. Would be interesting to learn more on this, and if in fact other Pettit guys have it as well. All comments on this would be welcomed, as I've told Cam I'll support his "Dude Tuned" customers in the future with sCANalyser Pro Tuner.

Cheers,
Mark.

Shit there's a one way valve on that hose? You have a picture perhaps?


I do not think the valve came from Pettit, I think it is stock Mazda.
Can someone with a Normally aspirated 8 confirm that there is a metal check valve in the brake booster hose?


Macius8, The one way valve should allow air to flow from the brake booster, but not allow air to flow to the brake booster;AKA - vacuum to brake booster, but not to intake.
If you have ran the car without a valve, you have probably damaged the brake booster.

Mine is running lean as well,,
]

those aux ports do cause a lot of tuning conundrums .....

I do not think the valve came from Pettit, I think it is stock Mazda.
Can someone with a Normally aspirated 8 confirm that there is a metal check valve in the brake booster hose?

Yes, There is a short length of Vacuum Hose from the Booster, then a check-valve, then another length of vacuum hose to the intake.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Yeah you re-use all the Mazda check valves and so on in the install, nothing new like that comes with the kit.

Mine is running lean as well,,

http://h.imagehost.org/0578/track_day2.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0578/track_day2)

so Their is nothing to be afraid of ?!
because I get bored to reset my PCM because I got CEL easyly :wallbash:

I reset my PCM by pulling the room fuse the day before my track day the car felt stronger for alittle while but then the boost was all over the place and it definately felt down on power, it was however 114 track temps so that might have had alot to do with it...

rote you lean spike is normal (on your attachment)--happens when you close the throttle. There is a little "lag" time in the data from the oem o2 sensor recording. normal pettit a/f's at idle are mid 14's like everyone elses. I am retarded when it come to tuning but the data I have collected from a na car and my car there is not a lot of difference in the a/f's---only in the timing.

Hey Hylmie baby--yep i dont have any hesitations after warm up. At times before full warmup i can get a off idle light acceleration lag of 1/2 sec or so.

Rote8 --Keep the track intake temps below 130F or you will lose power--check the water meth nozzles--they can get clogged contrary as to what others may say.
olddragger

Yea I didn't notice the check valve in the stock hose. Had a piece laying around cut to perfect length and just used that.
Do you guys think the brake booster may have actually been damaged? No vacuum in the booster would cause damage?

Walboro 255lph in,,,

Do you guys think the brake booster may have actually been damaged? No vacuum in the booster would cause damage?

I don't believe no vacuum would cause damage, as that is what happens when you pump the pedal a few times with the engine off - all the vacuum gets "used". I don't think the increased pressure in there when you have been under boost would cause an issue, but I cannot be sure. I would think the mechanicals of these things (critical systems) would be a little (lot!!) more robust than that.

I don't think you have any problems other than...


The wistling noises - A vacuum leak sounds plausible, and potentially related to the next one...
The stall on closed thottle following high RPM's - I have heard you guys have that, but I believe my system doesn't suffer. I reckon it is potentially MAF related. I run a stock MAF. When I didn't, I had the problem.
The big flat spot on Throttle tip-in.


Cheers,
Hymee.

rote you lean spike is normal (on your attachment)--happens when you close the throttle. .
olddragger

The lean spike shown is from the aux ports opening . He needs to add fuel in that rev range to minimise that spike.
The first lean spike on the second chart is from throttle tip in - the second from the aux ports again .
You are correct that lean spike often occurs when closing the throttle but I don't think that is what we are seeing here ...

they were talking about lean spikes below 3K. Started a couple post before. Thats what i was referred too--like i said i am a tuning retard.

GUESS WHAT I HAVE IN MY GRIMELY OLD SUN SPOTTED HANDS AND I AM GRINNING SO BIG YOU CAN SEE WHERE THAT SARGENT IN DANANG KNOCKED OUT A JAW TOOTH!!!!!
I see how Cam modified the yellows too.
olddragger

me too, and for the past few months I haven't been able to bosst past 6.5psi,,,

me too, and for the past few months I haven't been able to bosst past 6.5psi,,,

then you either have a leak, belt slip or a motor problem. tuning doesn't affect boost on a SC.

I know I know,,, Im hoping its not the later,,,

whats your vacuum reading?
i am still at 17.5 at idle and at 2 k with no load i am at 21 (love centrifugal force!)
is your pulley on tight? still have high trims? Whats upppppppp?
OD

I know Moon expressed concern over the high trims as well,
as for my idle still 17.5-18 at idle, 2Krpms 21lbs like you,,,
I did pull my room fuse to reset the pcm last week, but my trims should indicate that,,,

I know Moon expressed concern over the high trims as well,
as for my idle still 17.5-18 at idle, 2Krpms 21lbs like you,,,
I did pull my room fuse to reset the pcm last week, but my trims should indicate that,,,

Hey, my trims beat your trims. :ylsuper:
I am hitting 20 on trims before pulling the ROOM fuse.
My car is the king of LTT. :Drooling_

We need a trim competition. :scratchhe

I idle at between 18 and 20, and hit 28 on deceleration.
Interesting you call it a "flat spot", I guess you can call it that, but my car sometimes breaks the tires loose leaving said "flat spot". (it's brutal on your neck right at "tip in")

Olddragger,
I have suspected my boost side nozzle was not putting out, when running methanol, my pre blower intake freezes over faster than my upper intake. (the per-blower nozzle is a 60, the upper intake is a 175)

Can you guys fine-fine your MAF calibration to get the trims back to within 5%?

Cheers,
Hymee.

my trim is was below 3 at steady state (open and closed loop). Now that i added a larger air filter and ported the TB my trim is 3.1 with a "spike" at rare times of 4.5.
Glad I am going with Cam's injectors---high trims + 100% duty cycle cant be good?
OD

COULDNT STAND IT!!!
Boost kit going on today
Hopefully my lower intake will go on(see images)
I think I have discovered an easy fix for the motormounts.
When I pulled my header just now my ports looked really good and very little carbon.
x fingers --time to get back on it.
olddragger

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141903&d=1247184393
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132556&d=1232893828
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132551&d=1232893430

Moon and I installed the Pettit secondary rads,,, great improvement with such a simple install,,,
my data logs before doing a mixed amount of driving was 198-206degrees,
Today driving around highest temp was 197, with an average of 183, there is discussion in the MD thread about fabing up a Radiator mister using the mindshield washer comtrols, res, and pump, all we need is to connect longer lines and the proper nozzles, gonna use an alcky/water mix as well.,,

Looks like my trims are starting to come down too...

http://h.imagehost.org/0481/new-rads1.jpg (http://h.imagehost.org/view/0481/new-rads1)

way to go! I have advocating this set up for a long time!

WELL------THE LIM CAN REMOVED WITHOUT PULLING THE ENGINE!!!!!!!!

tOOK A WHILE BUT MY IDEA WORKED--JUT REMOVE THE APV VALVES
before you try to pull the lim. then the intake comes out from up top --not the bottom.
If i had known that to start with i would not have pulled the header.

My primary ports were purty--very little carbon--im impressed.
now tomorrow put it all together again
True phenolic gasket and of coarse the intake and the boost kit tomorrow.
my injectors also looked good.
Hope the dang thing runs.
olddragger

Good luck Denny enjoy those extra lbs of boost...

One way valve was the problem!
Rote8, thanks for the suggestion. Everything seems fine, so brake booster should be ok too.
I'm only left with that hesitation problem. Hopefully it's the tune.
Now as far as the supercharger its not what I expected. I was expecting much more to be honest. Again hopefully a good tune will fix that.

One way valve was the problem!
Rote8, thanks for the suggestion. Everything seems fine, so brake booster should be ok too.
I'm only left with that hesitation problem. Hopefully it's the tune.
Now as far as the supercharger its not what I expected. I was expecting much more to be honest. Again hopefully a good tune will fix that.

You should hit about 300 RWHP with the stock Pettit kit and a catless midpipe.
330 to 340 RWHP with the larger pulley and a tune for bigger injectors.


I have my new belt, with belt dressing, and I am getting to 12 PSI.
Now the bad news, the 12PSI blew out an exhaust gasket..... :lol:

It is way past time to replace the Mazport midpipe with a straight pipe.

One way valve was the problem!
Rote8, thanks for the suggestion. Everything seems fine, so brake booster should be ok too.
I'm only left with that hesitation problem. Hopefully it's the tune.
Now as far as the supercharger its not what I expected. I was expecting much more to be honest. Again hopefully a good tune will fix that.

Are you running at proper boost levels? After my install, until the 1st inspection / run in, I was only running at about 5 psi due to new belt loosening etc.

Once tightened 7-8 psi and woooooot!!!!!!

All this talk of the LIM - I can't help but think of the Apollo missions...

Cheers,
Hymee.

dont go there mate!!
i am in the process of getting it all put together now.--lunch time.

little hints i have found so far
1--dont forget to check the rear s.c. mount--i checked the tightness and it was--shall i say loose.:shocking:
putting a double nut on it now like i should have to begin with.
2- two fuel injector rubber rings(the big one) had split ---what?????--:crazy:
3- great time to tidy up vacuum lines--gauges wires etc.
4- my oem check valve going to the vacuum box with all the solenoids--- was almost stopped up----huh? Yep.:Eyecrazy:
replaced with better check valve.
5- those little apv bolts ? They area )(*)&&%^&%#@*_+_(()&&$&## to get back on!!!!!!.:banghead::Eyecrazy::cussing::scared::box ing_sm:balls:
Thank God for medication and my wife.

back to work.
olddragger