Made a mistake, thats Sunday for the autocross at Maroso.

i am trying something new--will let you know if it works out
OD

Got to hang out with Rotor8 last night and put down a few beers. Good meeting you man, fun times.

Just got back from an autocross event in Brooksville, FL. Take a look at a couple of videos I took while driving the wrong way and the right way. Enjoy. :eyetwitch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVCp3UY0VTs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jq_32HCfPM

BTW, just went over 38k and 13k since the SC. Got up this morning, drove an hour to Brooksville, nine autocross laps, drove back home and spanked a riced celica and later a scion tC. No problems, no issues, life is good. :wiggle:

Nice, thanks for reminding me to take video cam!!!!! Nice driving Jaun. You need to start a list of cars you spank for the record, hehe.

Funny thing, you now what still ticks me off. No one has either updated a old dyno comparison or started a up to date one.

Juan---i didnt hear that you had to crank you car after that spin did I?! DUDE! Both feet in when recovery is not possible!!!!
Nice lay out --at least you could stay in 2nd gear.
You HAVE to get on track man--you have too.
I may have to invoke peer pressure this year:)
OD

I may have to invoke peer pressure this year:)
OD

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/doorcombo/never.jpg

Autocross was fun, dosnt match a nice drive on HILLY mountain road but it was fun. I think they should take all the cones out of the way and let use have free run of the kart track though, 3rd would be nice.

Juan---i didnt hear that you had to crank you car after that spin did I?! DUDE! Both feet in when recovery is not possible!!!!OD

Are you kidding me? You are supposed to throw your hands in the air and scream real loud.

You are correct my friend and I did but the car stalled. Therefore, I had to started back up. :eyetwitch

course you scream---like a scared little girl -- but the both feet in hard keeps you from crapping in your pants!!!
Hope to have some Road Atlanta vids up after mid March. With a little help from my friends of course.
olddragger

Juan---i didnt hear that you had to crank you car after that spin did I?! DUDE! Both feet in when recovery is not possible!!!!
Nice lay out --at least you could stay in 2nd gear.
You HAVE to get on track man--you have too.
I may have to invoke peer pressure this year:)
OD

"In a spin, both feet in"

"When in doubt, both feet out"

"In a slide, let it ride" (or "Hold, don't fold")

Quotes from my HPDE instructors at VIR this weekend. That place was awesome to drive with the -8 as stock, I can't imagine it at almost twice the power without drooling.

Just got back from an autocross event in Brooksville, FL. Take a look at a couple of videos I took while driving the wrong way and the right way. Enjoy. :eyetwitch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVCp3UY0VTs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jq_32HCfPM

BTW, just went over 38k and 13k since the SC. Got up this morning, drove an hour to Brooksville, nine autocross laps, drove back home and spanked a riced celica and later a scion tC. No problems, no issues, life is good. :wiggle:

Looking good. What springs/sway bar are you running?

Looking good. What springs/sway bar are you running?

Thanks

BC Racing Coilovers/Racing Beat Sways/Racing Beat front end links/White Line rear end links. :eyetwitch

Phil,

Based on our prior DHS/TSA forum interaction I’m glad to let you know that we made some subtle chances to the passenger screening procedures. Take a look. :eyetwitch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7AWw7t5zj0

Phil,

Based on our prior DHS/TSA forum interaction I’m glad to let you know that we made some subtle chances to the passenger screening procedures. Take a look. :eyetwitch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7AWw7t5zj0

That is the funniest video I have seen.:lol2: :yelrotflm :lol: I love it. I am going to put that in my personal best file. If I ever have to fly again I will play that video to get me in the mood (or out of it).

I know I should read all 191 pages of this thread, but would someone rather inform me if they have had their '8 round trip trailered from the NE area to Pettit for supercharger installation and what their overall experience with the evolution was like? TIA

I know I should read all 191 pages of this thread, but would someone rather inform me if they have had their '8 round trip trailered from the NE area to Pettit for supercharger installation and what their overall experience with the evolution was like? TIA
If memory serves me correct, Shinka 213 shipped her car by truck trailer to Pettit. She posted a very positive experience but if you PM her you will get a better answer. Pat is some where in the NE, I think PA.

I(in MD) had Moon do a remote install with me helping, Pat(Shinka213)(PA) shipped her car down, and Im not sure what Dogpound48 did he's in NJ

I know I should read all 191 pages of this thread, but would someone rather inform me if they have had their '8 round trip trailered from the NE area to Pettit for supercharger installation and what their overall experience with the evolution was like? TIA

You know I forgot to mention that BHR will do a travel to your site and install of the Pettit s/c. He did mine and I'm happy. You only need PM Ray and he will respond quickly (Charles R Hill is his screen name).

Thanks

BC Racing Coilovers/Racing Beat Sways/Racing Beat front end links/White Line rear end links. :eyetwitch

I was going to say that your car corners really flat. I'm actually running the exact same [front] spring rates, sway bar, and end links as you. I guess that's what my car would look like if I had a video camera... :rolleyes:

My latest mods:

1. Insulated the plastic portion of the fuel line that runs on top of the engine. Basically, I enclosed the plastic portion of the line with heat barrier material to keep the fuel from absorbing engine heat before entering the fuel injector’s fuel rail.

2. Changed my current K&N cone type air filter for a stainless steel micromesh cone air filter.

3. Replaced the trailing NGK 11.5 spark plugs for NGK 10.5 spark plugs. I’m now running NGKs 10.5 for leading and trailing at .035 gap. Thanks Ray (BHR) for the plugs and don’t forget to add a second washer if you are thinking about using them on your RX8.

4. I changed my Blue secondary injectors for a new pair of 2009 RX8 P2 (Brown) injectors. They are rated the same 480 cc fuel flow but the fuel disk has more holes for better fuel atomization/spray pattern. The blue injectors have 4 holes and the new brown have (I believe 8) sorry I forgot to count them before I installed them but I remember that there are more that four holes on them.

I’ll post some pictures of the fuel line and air filter tomorrow. Also, I’m going to take the car for a spin and data logging. :eyetwitch

Finally found out what was causing all my stall issues and idle bobble when I came to red lights,,,
It was my Nuetral position switch,, it finally went bad threw a code,,, replaced it and now its really smooth and no stalls,,

Finally found out what was causing all my stall issues and idle bobble when I came to red lights,,,
It was my Nuetral position switch,, it finally went bad threw a code,,, replaced it and now its really smooth and no stalls,,

wow,

it does happen.. and it takes forever to get a code for it.... glad you found it! :) but usually it goes away if you push in the clutch.. i swear that i messed with me for a long time..

was random. the code finally solved the issue. track day fixed the sensor! :)

beers :beer:

yeah its been going on for about 6 months or so , and I was misdiagnosing it as fuel starvation,,, it now only threw the code because I installed a remote starter and had to tap into the connector...

yeah its been going on for about 6 months or so , and I was misdiagnosing it as fuel starvation,,, it now only threw the code because I installed a remote starter and had to tap into the connector...

yep,

mine was so random i think it took a year.. :( code good..

beers :beer:

4. I changed my Blue secondary injectors for a new pair of 2009 RX8 P2 (Brown) injectors. They are rated the same 480 cc fuel flow but the fuel disk has more holes for better fuel atomization/spray pattern. The blue injectors have 4 holes and the new brown have (I believe 8) sorry I forgot to count them before I installed them but I remember that there are more that four holes on them.

I’ll post some pictures of the fuel line and air filter tomorrow. Also, I’m going to take the car for a spin and data logging. :eyetwitch

Where do you get the '09 injectors from, and how much are they?

Where do you get the '09 injectors from, and how much are they?

From Mazda

Part No: N3R2-13-250 msrp $152.26 ea

or you can have my blue injectors for $120.00 both including shipping. :eyetwitch

Here are the pixs of the stainless steel mesh screen air filter and insulated fuel line. Data logging of my new fuel injectors will be done later today. :eyetwitch

That filter looks rad. How much for one of those?

Juan---you are as bad as I am---we cant stop messing with this car:)
I have been looking at that type of filter(open front)--but i will probably stay with a fabric type.
Have you channeled the airflow to the intake yet? You have to do a little blocking off of some things but it does get more air to that spot --even at lower speeds.
I am also looking at upgrading the a/w tank to a stainless/aluminum type--but havent decided on exactly what I want yet.
right now getting ready for track time--little taladaga and road atlanta!!!
carbo techs xp 8's are on and she is raring to go.
it never ends:)
olddragger

That filter looks rad. How much for one of those?

You can buy it at Auto Zone. However it is not an air filter but rather an air screen. I would not recommend it for a daily driven car. The two outside rings are made of chrome plated plastic and it looks real cheese. I lightly scrubbed the luster with a soft steel wool and it now looks like if the outer rings are also made of stainless steel. A real/true stainless steel air screen mesh filter sell for over $250 new. Don’t forget to add a screen before the intake/MAF tube to eliminate air turbulence. I have been using one for the longest time made out of window screen. Also, I remember gaining 7 whp by removing the K&N air filter (no filter at all) one time during a dyno pull. :eyetwitch

http://www.autozone.com/R,2604671/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,4805/partType,00006/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Juan---you are as bad as I am---we cant stop messing with this car:)

Thats half of it. The other half is messing with the wife. :naughty:

Have you channeled the airflow to the intake yet? You have to do a little blocking off of some things but it does get more air to that spot --even at lower speeds.

My air filter sits enclosed in an insulated box. Air temperature is 4 degrees higher than ambient temperature by the time the car reaches 30 mph. :eyetwitch

sounds like the temp in the airbox is cooler than in the house!!!:uhh:
h/p without filter huh? need bigger k/n
OD

You can buy it at Auto Zone. However it is not an air filter but rather an air screen. I would not recommend it for a daily driven car. The two outside rings are made of chrome plated plastic and it looks real cheese. I lightly scrubbed the luster with a soft steel wool and it now looks like if the outer rings are also made of stainless steel. A real/true stainless steel air screen mesh filter sell for over $250 new. Don’t forget to add a screen before the intake/MAF tube to eliminate air turbulence. I have been using one for the longest time made out of window screen. Also, I remember gaining 7 whp by removing the K&N air filter (no filter at all) one time during a dyno pull. :eyetwitch

http://www.autozone.com/R,2604671/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,4805/partType,00006/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Cool. Thanks. Did you ever try putting the removeable screen from the stock air box in between the filter and Pettit MAF housing?

Cool. Thanks. Did you ever try putting the removeable screen from the stock air box in between the filter and Pettit MAF housing?

Nope. Just take a piece of metal window screen and drape it over the front of the MAF intake tube. Then install the air filter with securing clamp and cut excess screen material. This will prevent the screen from ever come loose or sucked into the intake. Bastage and I have been running this setup for many thousands of miles with no issues whatsoever. :eyetwitch

Even if you can find some way of wedging the OEM screen in place, why go through all that trouble when window screen works just as well and is much simpler?

BTW, here are some install pics from "Smooth Jazz" Juan's garage:

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2890994&postcount=185

can I ask what the result of not using a MAF screen is on the pettit setup?

I went to the trouble of incorporating a std MAF screen into my intake. one day I was lazy and left it out and the car ran better I haven't used a maf screen since. my maf isn't as short as the pettit one and the only other difference I can see is I run a HKS mushroom with a velocity stack like the stock intake.

If you don't have turbulence than you don't need it - check your airflow voltage... mine goes /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ and gets worse without the screen.

What is a good test to determine whether or not a screen is needed?

can I ask what the result of not using a MAF screen is on the pettit setup?

I went to the trouble of incorporating a std MAF screen into my intake. one day I was lazy and left it out and the car ran better I haven't used a maf screen since. my maf isn't as short as the pettit one and the only other difference I can see is I run a HKS mushroom with a velocity stack like the stock intake.

Do you have any pics/specs of your build? I am very interested to see/hear about what you have done.

Might you guys consider this?;

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67

I am outfitting Phil with a few AEM gauges soon.

Knock on wood, but my AEM A/F gauge has been flawless.
:)

Do you have any pics/specs of your build? I am very interested to see/hear about what you have done.
check the .au forums for my build thread. it's still a bit of a tease.

If you don't have turbulence than you don't need it - check your airflow voltage... mine goes /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ and gets worse without the screen.

mine goes up and down a little but so does the rpm. If rpm is changing so is the amount of air going in.
it really depends how finely you look at the maf airflow. by itself it can look VVVVVV but in perspective with load or rpm they are very steady. I get more like \__________________/---------\_______________ if you excuse the poor asci art :lol2: there is lumps and bumps or over 1g/s but the normal variation is under 1 g/s or there is another reason for the change like TPS. this is without a screen on a 4" MAF with velocity stack.

Nope. Just take a piece of metal window screen and drape it over the front of the MAF intake tube. Then install the air filter with securing clamp and cut excess screen material. This will prevent the screen from ever come loose or sucked into the intake. Bastage and I have been running this setup for many thousands of miles with no issues whatsoever. :eyetwitch

May we have some picts of your install' ?

May we have some picts of your install' ?

Here you go ala KISS (keep it simple stupid) mode. :eyetwitch

check the .au forums for my build thread. it's still a bit of a tease.



mine goes up and down a little but so does the rpm. If rpm is changing so is the amount of air going in.
it really depends how finely you look at the maf airflow. by itself it can look VVVVVV but in perspective with load or rpm they are very steady. I get more like \__________________/---------\_______________ if you excuse the poor asci art :lol2: there is lumps and bumps or over 1g/s but the normal variation is under 1 g/s or there is another reason for the change like TPS. this is without a screen on a 4" MAF with velocity stack.

Yeah then you seem to be doing better than me... mine is varying about 1 g/sec or just under; but I never get flat spots.

nice clean air box there---aluminum + heat shield stuff?
coils under your box?
OD

nice clean air box there---aluminum + heat shield stuff?
coils under your box?
OD

That is a big Roger. Coils under and full air flow/cooling fans air flow to keep them happy either at a stop/AC on or while cruising at 85 mph. :eyetwitch

your guys cooling mods are nothin compared to mine:evil_laug:evil_laug:evil_laug

http://f.imagehost.org/0566/ultimate-cooling-mod.jpg

your guys cooling mods are nothin compared to mine:evil_laug:evil_laug:evil_laug


Note to self, use less methanol.....

your guys cooling mods are nothin compared to mine:evil_laug:evil_laug:evil_laug

http://f.imagehost.org/0566/ultimate-cooling-mod.jpg

Yeh, and its in the 60s here today, thought id rub it in, lol.

7 degf here this morning. Lovin' the po' man's FI. ;)

In flip flops doing Nitrous install... SUCK IT!

Tropical climates rock

after reading some of handy man Juan stuff--i decided to try a maf tube screen on mine---care did not like that. ok my old k&n filter is kind of beat up so i got a new cotton type with the additional opening on the top---car REALLY didnt like that. a/f's all screwed up--for example
with a 50 % load and at 6k a/f was in low 14's and a flicker of a 13.9.
yes i pulled the room, and did the pedal dance also and same deal. needless to say i will take it easy on the way home to put the old k& n back on---whew!
it's turbalance in the maf---idle and low speed/low load it does normal stuff ---but increase load or wind her up a little and she really runs lean-----yikes!
nope regular old k&n filter for me now.
olddragger

I'm sure Pettit decided once the mixtures and power #s looked good without a screen there was no point in messing with it. Either that, or they did extensive testing. Either way, Juan and Bastage are the only ones I know of running a screen. My car runs great without it.

-Yambo

roger that---i didnt expect problems just with a new type air filter though. guess my maf/etc is like I am--old and fixed in my ways:)
OD

after reading some of handy man Juan stuff--i decided to try a maf tube screen on mine---care did not like that. ok my old k&n filter is kind of beat up so i got a new cotton type with the additional opening on the top---car REALLY didnt like that. a/f's all screwed up--for example
with a 50 % load and at 6k a/f was in low 14's and a flicker of a 13.9.
yes i pulled the room, and did the pedal dance also and same deal. needless to say i will take it easy on the way home to put the old k& n back on---whew!
it's turbalance in the maf---idle and low speed/low load it does normal stuff ---but increase load or wind her up a little and she really runs lean-----yikes!
nope regular old k&n filter for me now.
olddragger

Interesting?! :scratchhe

Here is a log from yesterday. Remember that I’m running the regular Pettit flash but with the pulley upgrade. I’m running the 2009 RX8 P2 injectors in my secondary (outside left and right of the fuel rail) position. Next mod is to change the two inside P2 injectors for the 2009 RX8 P1 injectors. The 2004-2008 P2 OEM injectors are rated at 500cc and the 2009 RX8 P1 injectors are rated at 505cc but with a better fuel spray/atomization pattern. :eyetwitch

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/doorcombo/EFIlog.jpg

Juan. 13 degrees of timing seems a little conservative. Have you asked Cam or Dian for a more aggressive tune. Me thinks you can run more timing, especially with the alky injection.

-Yambo

nice and that looks like mine without screen or the "new" filter with the opening on the top.
141 mph---careful on the road there dude:)! timing of 14?!
I was looking into the better atomization thing for a little while --then i realized how far the rotor carries the charge before ignition and I came to the concusion that all that movement is going to affect the charge so much that the injector spray pattern really doesnt matter. just get the volumne in there.
olddragger

Oh. I got my Tokico D-Spec shocks installed this week. Car was nice and comfy on the way back home. Can't wait to dial it in on a track.

-Yambo

mars - is that dudelogger you are useing ? If so did you realise you can zoom in about 10x on that log ? It would be much esier to digest if you did that .
Here is one of my logs for comparison ....
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/dudeloggerrun.jpg

^^ Brettus - Interesting in that one how the MAF is incresing with RPM's (normal), however the load is decreasing. If you were able to plot boost, would it be dropping away as well?? Do you have a boost gauge for a visual?

Also interesting how the MAF is flat-lining at ~300g/s. You got your AFR's looking reasonably flat. Nice work!

Has anyone been playing with different sized injectors, and what numbers they have been using for the injector scalings?

Cheers,
Hymee.

/\ pretty normal log for my setup . Boost is fairly constant around 8.5psi dropping to about 7.8 for the last 500 rpm or so . MAF is not flat lining - it is just that the values are very close .

I used the method you suggested when i scaled my 480cc's in the p2 position . Seems to work well ....

Cool. Sorry for clouding this S/C thread with some Turbo stuff, but the principles of what are being discussed don't alter.

Cheers,
Hymee.

mars - is that dudelogger you are useing ? If so did you realise you can zoom in about 10x on that log ? It would be much esier to digest if you did that .


Here you go. Do you realize that I'm going 141 mph (228 km/h)? :eyetwitch

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/doorcombo/EFIlog-1.jpg

yes i surely did you mad bastage

I would be playing with injector scales.... if only.

Here you go. Do you realize that I'm going 141 mph (228 km/h)? :eyetwitch


Nice log file, you make me want to log more data....
:uhh:

well had a track day---and gremlins. Never had this happen before.
Car puked 1/2 quart of engine oil throught the intake--a/w intercooler--supercharger---and air filter----in the 1st 3 laps of a 1.5 mile track and not running hard(never over 8K). i vented the crankcase a little by a track side fix of pulling the dipstick out a little--and after a LONG clean up--it never happened again. No --the car was not overfilled with oil.
It really killed the efficiency of the intercooler so i was battling charge temps all day. How the hell can you clean it?
my crankcase is vented in the usual way with a vacuum from the intake etc and like I have said--- i have plently of track miles on the car and this has nevver happened before.
ideas?
olddragger

ewww just the picture of your intake puking oil sends shivers down my spine,,, do you have a catch can??? if not might wanna look into it....
other than that I got nothin...

Car puked 1/2 quart of engine oil throught the intake--a/w intercooler--supercharger---and air filter olddragger

FAIL!!!

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/doorcombo/schalke_fan_puke_on_self.jpg

well thats a big help--lol--reminds me of my nco party in the CORP
Why did it do this?
OD

OD, you should get a compression test done, and if its possible, a crankcase pressure test while the engine is running. You could have a bad seal somewhere in the motor.

-Yambo

No --the car was not overfilled with oil.
olddragger


So, it was a half quart down after the puke?

Check the oil in the supercharger too, it may possibly have been a seal in there.
(I think the S/C holds about half a quart?)

Do you know through which route the oil got from the crankcase to the intake?

Cheers,
Hymee.

it may possibly have been a seal in there.
(I think the S/C holds about half a quart?)

Exactly what I was thinking. Except he mentioned about venting the crankcase and oil going everywhere (??).

Cheers,
Hymee.

yep--my 1st thought was the s.c--but it was full.
it was engine oil and it was in the blow by valve, in the upper intake etc and actually dripping out the filter--all over the air box--coils and the maf of course.
i was meatballed off the track as they saw a little smoke--glad they did.
now i was thinking OK it has puked back through the crankcase vent tube that runs to the intake --right --but soon realized it didnt--heck that tube was dry and patent.

the only way engine oil can get into the combustion chamber is a side seal right?

i still have not figured out how this has happenedd. Clean since that time.
olddragger
i have a road atlanta w/e coming up this w/e

yep--my 1st thought was the s.c--but it was full.
it was engine oil and it was in the blow by valve, in the upper intake etc and actually dripping out the filter--all over the air box--coils and the maf of course.
i was meatballed off the track as they saw a little smoke--glad they did.
now i was thinking OK it has puked back through the crankcase vent tube that runs to the intake --right --but soon realized it didnt--heck that tube was dry and patent.

the only way engine oil can get into the combustion chamber is a side seal right?

i still have not figured out how this has happenedd. Clean since that time.
olddragger
i have a road atlanta w/e coming up this w/e

Are you sure that it was engine oil and not methanol leftover? :eyetwitch

its hard to mistake that much oil in the airbox and dripping out the filter.
Oh wait maybe i put oil in the w/m system!!!---Na dont think so.
All though I will make a mental note.
damn intercooler now allows 50 degrees over ambient.
olddragger

Intresting, did you track down were it came from yet? Did you say your putting vac to your crankcase vent?? Ive never herd of puking a 1/2 quart. Ive herd of it foaming, were is your T at on the oil fill, you might have it to high, you should have the T as low as you can get it then run your vent hose as high as you can. As for cleaning your IC out, you might have to bite the bullet and pull it apart. You might also have oil puddeld in the lower half of the blower, I wouldnt try blasting it out with meth either, spraying as much as it would take might wash out your seals and cause premature wear and tear. If it is puddled in your blower its gona be a big head ack and maybe cause more problems. To much oil is better then not enough in this case but im curios were it came from.

Denny:....it's kinda weird..but mine did it once on the track NA before the turbo

Never did figure out what it was...and it never did it again.......Wonder if something stuck up a side seal for a few minutes and it blew by enough to pressurize the crankcase....puke the oil..and then it unstuck??

I think you will have to pull the IC out to clean it up as well...you don't want to cook all that oil into sludge in the IC and blower

never did figure out where it came from--hasnt done it anymore---drove for a few sessions after i cleaned it up and cracked the dipstick(has been fully inserted ever since)
i cant get the intake air temps down even with the water meth--on track on 78F degree day engine temp 185--intake air temp 170 WITH water meth going. Still going 50 over ambient everyday driving now. Making boost OK.
Yep I have the regular crankcase vent setup and never have had this happen before
gremlins?
I do NOT want to take the s.c/ intercooler apart--i have 2 days of track at Road Atlanta this w/e!!!!! Have to work etc etc etc. What should I watch for?--i got a cleaner--rag and various wiggly medical instruments..... cant i do it that way?
intake temps on street around 115-125F without w/m.
OD

Idea, try the rag on the end of a coat hanger and go fishing for oil through were the throttlebody mounts. Maybe you high temps migh be from the oil sump you might have going.

will try that tonight---thanks--now i have pretty good front brake caliper flex going on---car like me -just getting old!
OS

Idea, try the rag on the end of a coat hanger and go fishing for oil through were the throttlebody mounts. Maybe you high temps migh be from the oil sump you might have going.

You might want to tie a string to the rag, in case it comes off the clothes hanger and you need to pull it out.

Trust me on this one.
Do not try for oil-wings......
/Sorry Denny, could not resist.

well--golly gee--i ended up spring cleaning--plus found out my w/m solenoid was working only sometimes:banghead:
vented the crankcase a little differently per "The Man" suggestion(Juan)
i now have one of those cute little valve cover vent filter things inserted into the oil filter cap--does look kinda cool---plugged the air intake vacuum hose that WAS going to the crankcase, vented the s.c. down the back of the engine, rechecked my solenoid and it is NOW working--- so now i am tired and I quit :Eyecrazy: Enough already gremlins--enough:cussing:
olddragger

cooler water anyone????

http://f.imagehost.org/0725/102_1461.jpg

cooler water anyone????



Nice! :eyetwitch

thats going to be a sweet set up--suggestions?
make the air scoops taper toward the back a little, turn the coolers around so that the hoses are up front and in a cooler area--not next/close to the a/c condensor or radiator.
make sure that the air damn belly pan can still vent enough at high speed that you dont get air pressure build up--tapering the back of the scoop will help with that.
do they need to be that tall? the vacuum under the car while it is moving will pull air through them--shorter scoops will also unblock the airflow some and maybe give room for a fan?
That a great set up--kinda like it better than my own.
i have heard that the 09 thermostat is different--earlier opening etc--anyone know for sure the specs?
olddragger

cooler water anyone????

http://f.imagehost.org/0725/102_1461.jpg
Is that the set up from Moon and Pettit? looks nice and compact.

Is that the set up from Moon and Pettit? looks nice and compact.

yup... I bought an underpanel from Mazmart and had them ship it straight to Pettit, they re using it to refine and protoype the design and once its finished it ll be sent to me....

cooler water anyone????

http://f.imagehost.org/0725/102_1461.jpg

seems like an awful lot of weight to bolt to that thin piece of plastic.

The scoops are only between 2 and 3 inches tall and they do taper. Not much extra weight, they dont even sag the belly pan. Id say there well worth it vs problems overheating.

aha--dead on dude--pic makes them look a lot taller.

FIxed my w.m solenoid!! Just needed a good cleaning and reversing the wires.:)
olddragger

aha--dead on dude--pic makes them look a lot taller.

FIxed my w.m solenoid!! Just needed a good cleaning and reversing the wires.:)
olddragger

Denny,

I had that happen before and resulted in a bad case of detonation under heavy load. I would highly recommend switching to a metal type check valve instead. I have been running one for the last 6 months with no issues whatsoever. :eyetwitch

understand man---one is on order--great minds think alike:) `BUT--BIGGGGG track event this w/e and it doesnt have time to get here. Seems snow has updated their solenoid also and SUmmit racing has one which i will pick up on the way to road atlanta. I will also have a connector available if that doesnt work out. The car will run great without a solenoid(actually it will cool much better) and that will be OK for the track I will just have to readjust the maf settings some because it flows more. Call it insurance. Meanwhile I just needed some street ability that so far--is working.
Alabama gas was crappy.
I need to get a pic of the crankcase vent filter mounted in the oil cap---does look pretty good.
The s/c vent doesnt need suction does it?
olddragger

I need to get a pic of the crankcase vent filter mounted in the oil cap I triple dog dare you.

The s/c vent doesnt need suction does it?
olddragger

Nope :eyetwitch

I just replaced my OEM P2 380cc yellow fuel injectors for a new pair of 2009 P1 390cc green fuel injectors. :wiggle:

As you can see (attachments) the fuel spray patter is different from the 2004-2008 injectors. They deliver a better fuel spray/atomization pattern. The same goes with the 2009 P2 brown fuel injectors which I’m currently running in my Auxiliary Port (outside left and right of the fuel rail) position. Check out the a quick log I took right after installation. The car seems to accelerate faster and whp will be determined next month on the 5th at Delirium Motorsports Dyno Day in Kissimmee, Florida. :eyetwitch

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/doorcombo/Log.jpg

seems like an awful lot of weight to bolt to that thin piece of plastic.
I believe that the one from Mazmart is metal.

so what total rainbow of colors are you ending up with?
Has anyone that doesnt have the upgraded pulley changed injectors?:uhh:
olddragger

nope Im saving the injectors for the Pulley, first must install my W/M,,,:banghead:

so what total rainbow of colors are you ending up with? That didn’t sound that good. :icon_no2:
Has anyone that doesnt have the upgraded pulley changed injectors?:uhh:
olddragger

Anyway, I have two 2004-2008 reds for the P1 position, two 2009 greens for the P2 position and two 2009 browns for the Auxiliary Port position. You can change the four 2004-2008 yellow injectors for four 2009 green injectors while keeping the current flash or add the bigger pulley along with the combination mentioned above and still keeping the same flash while adding 35+ whp. :eyetwitch

Do you plan on coordinating a new flash with Pettit(Cam and Dian) for the new pulley and injetors???

Do you plan on coordinating a new flash with Pettit(Cam and Dian) for the new pulley and injetors???

Nope. Did you see my last log post? Also, check this thread link and observe the A/F ratio gauge. http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2912116&postcount=103 Yes, is out of focus but still readable. I’m happy with the way the car runs right now and don’t feel like messing with it. :eyetwitch

sounds like plug and play ----with water meth
you still running the 100 and 60 sizes?
olddragger

sounds like plug and play ----with water meth
you still running the 100 and 60 sizes?
olddragger

A.FFIR.MA.TIVE

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/doorcombo/robot.jpg

BTW,

I think I'm getting better fuel mileage with the new 2009 injectors. I need to verify and will let ya'll know later. :eyetwitch

ok so what is the down side to the new pulley set up---get the new injectors---thats all?
how would the s.c hold up on a road course with the increase rpmsi
olddragger

ok so what is the down side to the new pulley set up---get the new injectors---thats all?
how would the s.c hold up on a road course with the increase rpmsi
olddragger

Yes, that’s it. Upgraded pulley and a pair of 2009 P1/P2 injectors (same flash). I have over 1.5k with the current setup to include a couple of autoX and two trips to the drag strip. Also, one dyno day, cruising at 80+ mph on the interstate and one trip to 141 mph. I also checked the fuel pressure once for over 35 miles under different driving conditions and the OEM fuel pump was able to keep up with the increase in fuel demand. Sorry but no road courses under my belt, yet. :eyetwitch

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/doorcombo/untitled.jpg

OD - if ou are worring about over revving , just shift earlier ;)

I also checked the fuel pressure once for over 35 miles under different driving conditions and the OEM fuel pump was able to keep up with the increase in fuel demand. Sorry but no road courses under my belt, yet. :eyetwitch

Watch you fuel pressure if you do the road course thing....there is a well documented problem in high G corners.....

It is good that you can watch fuel pressures...that will save you a lot of grief

2009 fuel pump---MUCH BETTER
OD

is it a straight swap to use the 2009 fuel pump?

no --but it is fairly simple to do--i have a thread somewhere......
but you have to modify the connector plug a little, the venturi line has to be cut and just clamped on and the entire assembly has to be rotated to a 3 o clock position(forward facing arrow) and thats it. so many improvements in the 2009 pump.
Just do it huh? Thinking.
olddragger

OD/Rotr8

I placed a piece of rubber between the BeatRush transmission brace and the two lower transmission bolts (were the two pieces meet) and it cut down vibration/noise transfer considerably. I took a universal fit radiator hose I had laying around and cut one end (flat surface) and later trimmed the piece to fit between the two metal surfaces. I drilled two holes in order to fit the two transmission bolts and to keep the rubber piece from sliding away. I coated the rubber piece with urethane grease (the real sticky stuff that comes with urethane bushings) so I will not fade away nor will degrade the rubber hose piece. Support the transmission while removing the two lower bolts and torque to 100 ft/lbs. I did the same to my BeatRush differential brace. :eyetwitch

Life is good. :wiggle:

good work--i was going to do this BUT my dual resonated midpipe will not allow me to fit this piece--so if anyone wants one cheap let me know.
olddragger

Thanks Juan so I guess that when all said and done the rubber after being torqued down is about a 1/4" thick maybe even 1/8" thick??? my track even is in the middle of May and trying to get everything prep'd...
Thanks ,,,,

Rotr8

I finally got tired of my RX8 rear dust collector (rear bumper) and found your rear bumper mod thread. I did the same but instead of using the gutter screen mesh, I used a piece of steel mesh I found while at Home Depot. The diamond pattern is almost the same and I painted it flat black just like my RB front grille. I used brush paint instead of spray cuz it is more durable and it does not chip or flakes. I also added a small wire between the center of the lower bumper (right below the center triangle) and the metal muffler heat shield to prevent the bumper from bowing out while driving at 130+ mph. :eyetwitch

that doesnt look bad dude
olddragger

Hell yeah, looks awesome,,,, I still havent painted mine black yet, but that will be fixed in about a month,,, along with a swarray of other exterior mods...
Home Depot FTW!!! lol

I like it.

This is very nice :)
but I don't thinck this is very aerodynamic...'cause the air flow might have turbulence at the extraction point :eyetwitch

Love it anyway ?!

I now have spark!

I recently did the Fluid Motorsports coil connectors.
Some "spare" LS2 coils from a friend.
(MSD 8247 coils are on back order)
My old Mazsport Ignition coil mount with extra washers for the LS2 coils.
MSD 90 degree boot spark plug wires.
MSD LS2 coil terminal ends for the LS2 coils.

I did not notice a difference at first, but the car seems to run better at idle and under load.

I now have spark!

I recently did the Fluid Motorsports coil connectors.
Some "spare" LS2 coils from a friend.
(MSD 8247 coils are on back order)
My old Mazsport Ignition coil mount with extra washers for the LS2 coils.
MSD 90 degree boot spark plug wires.
MSD LS2 coil terminal ends for the LS2 coils.

I did not notice a difference at first, but the car seems to run better at idle and under load.


Good to hear!

I will ship out the MSD''s as soon as they are back in stock.

well--- 2011 will be a 16x!!
how about a ceramic bearing where the apex seals are?
olddragger

I now have spark!

I recently did the Fluid Motorsports coil connectors.
Some "spare" LS2 coils from a friend.
(MSD 8247 coils are on back order)
My old Mazsport Ignition coil mount with extra washers for the LS2 coils.
MSD 90 degree boot spark plug wires.
MSD LS2 coil terminal ends for the LS2 coils.

I did not notice a difference at first, but the car seems to run better at idle and under load.

got any pics??? are the coil horizontally mounted?...

Here are the coils mounted in the old Mazsport mount.

:)

neat package--
? can the LIM be removed without pulling the engine---anyone know?
olddragger

not according to mazda.

I've never attempted it with the motor in the car, but it sure looks like even if it were possible it would be a PITA.

good luck.

got a feeling it may not be worth it.
OD

got a feeling it may not be worth it.
OD

it could be done. but you would have to remove everything for a engine removal.. wiring, hoses. remove the ppf. and everything connected to the tranny.

and rotate the whole thing to get it out..

my guess is not worth it..

now, why would you try this? send me a pm.. i have a clue as to where you are going..

beers :beer:

^^^he has that shiny ported LIM thats been sitting around forever....

yep --you are right. And for those that do not believe --there are good things you can do to the lim to increase power. Things that can be done to help to cool the intake charge (w/m doesnt do it all --although it sure helps!!) and increase flow. especially flow.
I have heard from a legite source that with a little intake porting and a TOUCH of exhaust porting /exhaust port coating and work on the LIM will yeld 181 tq on a n/a renasis----for real. And no power fall off after 8.5K.
i may try this, the lim part i mean--even though this may be a groundbreaking attempt. I believe the lim can be removed without to much difficulty IF you remove the apv's themselves before trying to pull it out of the engine bay. it is just a small nut that holds them on. the trick is how do i get them back on once removed? it may be to tight of a clearence to do them well.
It is advantagous to remove the jet air and to do some center port work as well as sealing the vdi. I est a 10-15 horse total gain. 5 hp at 3K!
Scott i am so pissed at my car while we were at Little T. I estimate I was down about 50hp with what all was going on. You are coming to RR in May? Please ride with me if you can--hell i will let you drive her on the road--i need for someone else to feel what this car can do.
Has anyone mounted a moroso a/w intercooler tank (mustang part) its 3.5 quarts large and has a fuel cell opening so you can pack ice if you want to. all aluminum so less likely leaks?
its less than $200.
olddragger

Has anyone mounted a moroso a/w intercooler tank (mustang part) its 3.5 quarts large and has a fuel cell opening so you can pack ice if you want to. all aluminum so less likely leaks?
its less than $200.
olddragger

I'd think it would be more advantageous to go with a larger capacity heat exchanger rather than add a reservoir where the water just sits.

Good point concerning the heat exchanger--but i was thinking only in terms of less likly to develope a leak and it looks so dang good!
olddragger

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=212&products_id=1227&osCsid=e09bf1fcb0c09a67784b15c73b597e4e

Got a guy I work with that always talks about using these and stuffing them with dry ice when he used to circle track race a roots powered Mustang.

Scott i am so pissed at my car while we were at Little T. I estimate I was down about 50hp with what all was going on. You are coming to RR in May? Please ride with me if you can--hell i will let you drive her on the road--i need for someone else to feel what this car can do.

olddragger

denny,

fukin duh..

your skills are top noch, but i noticed the meatball flag?

i had to suggest 3 times to use my longer tube to get out the evil fluid!!!!! :lol:

you were and so cool when the stuff goes wrong. reminds me of my first visit to rr.. :)

rr may. yep. hope i am out of the green by then. ;) if i had known i was not going to homestead i would have been at road atlanta.. :(

and if you need it for anything. i have a whole lim you can play with..

i chatted with carlie about some conserns and ideas. it involved finding the fogger..

beers :beer:

Bittersweet story. So I was driving on I-4 last night from Orlando to my house past midnight and I encountered a very clean 1st gen. I noticed a dash tachometer that took almost half of the windshield. So I pass the dude @ 70 mph and nodded to the guy with no indication to mess around. A couple of miles later I noticed that he was coming back fast, therefore I down shifted to 5th and no chance in hell. I slowed down let him past me and then again to 5th and C-ya. The 1st gen came back three more times and I felt like a cat playing with a mouse. Anyway, I used to own a very clean street ported RB decked out 1st gen GSLSE and it brought back memories but I love my Pettit SC RX8 best. Life is very good and with my 2009 injectors is even better. :eyetwitch

get on the track---get on the track---get on the track
roebling road May 2-3!!!!!!!!:)
olddragger

juan --did your underpanels ever come in? How much were they--i am interested in those.
olddragger

get on the track---get on the track---get on the track
roebling road May 2-3!!!!!!!!:)
olddragger

But track so expensive hence, gas to drive there and back plus cost at the gate, cost of food and drink $15 for spectators or 25+ for an event. Also your on the track in the middle of the day (HOT). The track is fun if you can afford it, road corse is very expensive, drag racing is ok but dosnt do it for me. We need more tracks like we had 10 years ago in Virginia. Arive and drive for 20 bucks. Spectators $5, it was dirt oval but hey, that was before they paved it the year after I left the area. We need road corses, road corses, and did I say road corses. There should be a law, 1 track every 20 miles. Better yet, you have the HOV lane then you have the 2 100+ lanes. Imagine how hyped and ready youd be for work in the morning.

juan --did your underpanels ever come in? How much were they--i am interested in those.
olddragger

Yes, back in January :eyetwitch

http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=2842195&postcount=4485

FF19-56-343A COVER NO.1,UNDER $120.00
FF19-56-371A COVER NO.2,UNDER $88.00
FF19-56-113A COVER'C',UNDER $104.00

thanks man
and Moon this track event is $250 for the w/e with fee supper and band saturday night.
you can camp at the track. Its addictive:)
OD

Moon or anyone--has anyone ever played with the idea of doing a lubrication coating to the apex seals? And doing a tbc coating to the side seals and springs????.
i have decided I seriously want to install my lower intake manifold and my true phenolic gasket. I may go to Mazcare to get charlies help--undecided yet. Wished I lived closer to yall!
olddragger

I finaly received it !!!!

way to go !!!

now I have to find the best procedure to install it and then ... Fire in da' house :boink:

Hellz yeah,, welcome to the club,,,,,

let the fun begin----self install--way to go man!!
olddragger

I finaly received it !!!!

way to go !!!

now I have to find the best procedure to install it and then ... Fire in da' house :boink:

Best procedure to install it would be by the manufactures specified directions.

congrats and have fun.

Well, one step closer to boosting. Wounder how long its gona take to wear out a set of 225s. Ow, welcome to the Pettit blower club. Take your time with the instal and make sure its all done properly.

hahahah second the 225 statement, Moon,, I put my stockers back on this week so I could refinish my Volks and wow it really is a huge difference, going from a 275 all the way down to a 225

225 wear depends on the type of rubber:()
olddragger

Yeah. If you have to support more than 225, you should probably go with a magnum due to excess friction.

-Yambo

I know how to fix the side seal issue and you dont--na na na na na!
Also can match bevel intake to engine ports(remember when we used to do that to old muscle car carbs and intake manifolds?)--remove casing markings and I THINK i know how to help incrase cooling for the exhaust port.
Muuuuwaaaaahhaaaa!!
olddragger

I know how to fix the side seal issue and you dont--na na na na na!
Also can match bevel intake to engine ports(remember when we used to do that to old muscle car carbs and intake manifolds?)--remove casing markings and I THINK i know how to help incrase cooling for the exhaust port.
Muuuuwaaaaahhaaaa!!
olddragger

such a tease! always posting about how you know things but not sharing :squint:

I finaly received it !!!!

way to go !!!

now I have to find the best procedure to install it and then ... Fire in da' house :boink:

Cool! Never seen "Go-Fast" in bubble-wrap before! :D:

stay tuned!
OD

yall did know that the apv's leak dont ya?
olddragger

/\ how did you find that out and where do they leak ?

I hate to break into this. As you may know I have been working on updating a map for the location of the owners. I think that my helper has come up with something unique and if everyone does not mind doing so, please provide me (by PM please) with the city where you reside, the color of your 8 and any links you would like to incorporate. A few of the existing members are a little inactive and if any or the active members can fill in the blanks for them it would help. Just see the existing list to see what I have (page one of this thread). The new map/list will use your current avatars. If there are any Pettit owners out there that are not on the list, now would be a good time to get on it. With your help and a little luck the new map should be up soon.

Phil pm sent
APV leaks period--if you have an engine that is apart , put the apv valve in its engine port and simply put some pressure on it---you can hear the leak and if you just blow hard on it you can feel the pressure letdown. these has to affect the fuel disbursement to some degree. may not be much but it has to be some. during the leak of course no fuel is going through it.olddragger

I can send a PM later this evening,,, you will have it by 6-7ish

Phil pm sent
APV leaks period--if you have an engine that is apart , put the apv valve in its engine port and simply put some pressure on it---you can hear the leak and if you just blow hard on it you can feel the pressure letdown. these has to affect the fuel disbursement to some degree. may not be much but it has to be some. during the leak of course no fuel is going through it.olddragger

so it leaks to the engine ? In that case , no biggie .

I don't think the engine will care about a bit of a leak here..there is no fuel in those tracts anyway...and the leaks will be small compared to the amount of (fuel-less) air going in when they are open...plus it is metered air anyway....

thinks about fuel distribution and ANY air getting in that doesnt have fuel with it is a power lost.
olddragger

Well...that whole port never has any fuel in it...so it's a moot point ;) Maybe we should look at changing the injector location?? I'm sure there is a reason that they don't spray fuel in there...might have something to do with port timing or something??

see your point and you are right--i still dont like this--aint right!!
OD

anyone know how to weld up the exhaust sleeve gap in the exhaut port--anything special to know?
OD

Moon or anyone--has anyone ever played with the idea of doing a lubrication coating to the apex seals? And doing a tbc coating to the side seals and springs????.
i have decided I seriously want to install my lower intake manifold and my true phenolic gasket. I may go to Mazcare to get charlies help--undecided yet. Wished I lived closer to yall!
olddragger

OD, you pique my curiosity with that question.

Many years ago, I remember motorcycles being advertised with a "radical new cylinder treatment", and there were R/C model engines with a same treatment. Instead of the cylinder being plated with chrome (like the 12A's rotor housings), these were nitride-impregnated or 'explosive plated'. One of the methods was to hang a component wire in the cylinder bore, hit it with enough voltage to literally explode the wire and deposit it into the walls. Variation of the material was used in aircraft hydraulic actuators to enhance wear resistance.

I'd have to guess there is a limit to the surface area that can be 'shot', otherwise Mazda probably would have tried it. I'd like to see a 13B or Renesis nitride-treated and see how the coating holds up. Expensive curiosity! :crazy:

I'll take the truly explosively formed cermet rotor housing.
Powder is placed into a form and C4 used to turn it into cermet.

The military makes parts of helicopter frames like this. :uhh:

This type of rotor housing would never scratch; maybe shatter at ungodly stress, but never scratch.
Just add rotors and seals made the same way, and that would finish the bulletproof engine.
(literally bullet proof to small arms fire, I don't know about a 50 caliber)

Why would anyone want to shoot at a poor rx-8 ...

Mines been shot at while on the highway, it was a bee bee gun, had to have the whole front windshield replaced

damn!

yup I still had the temp tags, I think it was only 8 or 9 days old... before a single mod was ever done.

Well, I went to the dyno day, needs tuning bad.
I made less RWHP than some NA cars, but I do have good torque.
201 RWHP and 192 FT lbs

Juan made 301 RWHP and 294 ft lbs.
Update: Juan made 301 RWHP and 194 Ft LBs

My AF was at 10.0 to one during my pull, so I stopped after the second pull. :icon_no2:
Good thing I did not have methanol installed!

Running the blue Mazda injectors, with the base flash.
I almost wonder if my secondary ports are stuck closed or something. :banghead:

Juan made 301 rwhp and 194 ft/lbs

This time I was running an Exotic Speed single resonator and hi-flo cat combo pipe. Also, my meth check valve was leaking and it was taken off, no race fuel added to compensate for the crappy 10% ethanol Florida gas and the temps inside the dyno shop was 20 degrees higher that the last time (330 rwhp). Overall, very happy with my car Pettit Racing SC performance. Again, sat in my garage for over a week, got up yesterday morning cranked it, filled with gas, drove an hour to Delirium (pissed some car owners on I-4), put the car on the dyno, out from Delirium to work, headed home (pissed more car owners on I-4) and is now parked until next week or so. Life is very good. :eyetwitch

Rote8 --you running the larger pulley?
OD

My bad,

Um, weekend before last, I helped Bastage with his blower drive belt.
My car did the very same thing last weekend at Delerium.

Everyone, the "knurled nut" on the idler pulley bolt needs a lock nut too.
Mine had lock tight and still the knurled nut turned when I thought I had tightened it, I was making 5-9 PSI (bouncing) due to belt slippage.
Yes, I checked the belt the day before.
The knurled nut can slip somehow, and then it just turns on the adjuster bolt.
Mine now has fresh lock tight under the knurled nut, AND a lock nut under the knurled nut.

Boost is up to 12-13, and steady...
Clearing the ROOM again now, then it is chicken dance time.

Rote8 --you running the larger pulley?
OD

Oh, yeah......
:)
Larger pulley, blue injectors on the secondary ports.
:)

I don't even have the methanol installed right now, I am waiting on braided stainless hose to run from the pump (in the trunk) to the dual injectors, it should arrive about when the MSD coils arrive.

:)
My latest MAF logs.
It helps to have the blower belt tight! :squint:
No Methanol kit is even installed yet.

At least I can laugh at myself.

:lol:

My bad,

Um, weekend before last, I helped Bastage with his blower drive belt.
My car did the very same thing last weekend at Delerium.

Everyone, the "knurled nut" on the idler pulley bolt needs a lock nut too.
Mine had lock tight and still the knurled nut turned when I thought I had tightened it, I was making 5-9 PSI (bouncing) due to belt slippage.
Yes, I checked the belt the day before.
The knurled nut can slip somehow, and then it just turns on the adjuster bolt.
Mine now has fresh lock tight under the knurled nut, AND a lock nut under the knurled nut.

Boost is up to 12-13, and steady...
Clearing the ROOM again now, then it is chicken dance time.

Ditto that. I did away with the knurled nut and installed two hex nuts with a lock washer between them to lock the tension adjuster, then tighten the bearing nut. My knurled nut was backing off when running.

Ditto that. I did away with the knurled nut and installed two hex nuts with a lock washer between them to lock the tension adjuster, then tighten the bearing nut. My knurled nut was backing off when running.

hmmm I wonder if that was the noise Ive started hearing a while ago,,, everything was tight but I'll have to investigate this more,,,

Rotr8, check your MAF reading, if it is down, tighten the S/C belt.
A dyno chart with a slipping belt will be "bumpy" at higher rpms. I also suspect a slipping belt can cause higher long term trims.

My MAF reading was helped by the cool weather, but 353.5 is still really good for no methanol. (or nitromethane)

ditto on the kurled nut throw a way. Score that long bolt so the replaced nuts do not move when you tighten it up. I never use that bolt to tighten the belt anyway--only to help hold it in place. use a pry bar to tighten the belt up. if you use that bolt it will pull the pulley just a tad sideways and at some point the belt will squeal or the bearing in the pulley will start to make noise.
nice maf and nice engine temp--hope your oil was warm!!
olddragger

nice maf and nice engine temp--hope your oil was warm!!
olddragger

Oh, yeah, it had been running for about 15 minutes before I did the log.
It was about 50 degrees down here when I did that pull, and the killer thing is, that wasn't over 8K rpm.

Im seeing that it seems like the nut needs updating. Other then that I think ive told everyone on here that there is an update for the tensioner, if you have the billet one made from steel you have the update. If you have a bolt that has threads for the adjuster, you need to update. Other then a better nut, does anyone have any ideas on making this a better setup? Another thing to check if your seeing slippage if the allen bolt isnt torqued enough. If your belt is tight as hell and you still have a problem hit that allen with a impact, dont over do it.

Moon ---guess I need the update one? Because I had used the bolt to tighten the tension once the idle pulley bearing went bad due to a slight misalignment and I replaced that. From that point onward I used a pry bar to adjust tension--since then no probs. I threw that damn kurl nut in the woods somewhere and use a double nut setup and score the threads to insure they dont turn/loosen.
Wish we could get an auto adjusted idler--you know the kind with the spring in it--that way it wound be low tension for regular driving but once rpm's climb she would tighten up some?

By the way i am doing a sweet little sleeper cold air supply to the airfilter area(not a true cai). Involves cutting the area within the front mazda symbol then making and installing a S shaped tube(3 ") to the frame cutout in front of the airfilter. The airfilter area does warm up a little and can use a little airflow.
Also THIS w/e I am going after the mustang moroso S.C. a/w aluminum 3.5 qy size tank up at Summit racing. Sweet looking and a large fuel cell type top so ice can be inserted if you want--also has a filter in it. Once I am done with all that--should take me an hr or 2 then pic will be coming.
yall will see my little filter installed on the oil filler cap, the tank and the ca supply.
Juan---eat your heart out!!
After that I need to look at suspension issues
Presently running the koni yellows with Tein H springs and the RB bars and endlinks. I have found out on track that this setup doesnt cut it anymore. The springs are too soft (front not even 300 and rear not even 200). I cant get the car to come out of the turn like I want because there is too much front in lift/understeer. BUT--i have to be careful because not enough weight transfer will cause my tail to get a little happy. I dont want shock settings to compinsate for weak springs. Once you change one thing you need to change another---soo i will be looking at true coilovers. I need to corner weight a little better anyway. Suggestions? Most rx8s around here are using the TEIN flex system but they dont have the power I do. The KW varient 3 is a little pricey for me and requires too much adjusting. I would like to have progressive springs in the rear--looking at the enduratechs? Or bilsteins? I would like to keep the RB bars. Want are yall running?
olddragger

like this!! Someone stole my idea!!
Anyone coming to the Mitty at Road Atlanta next month?
http://www.leg-sport.com/cgi-bin/diary/images/20090302185902_1.JPG
olddragger

Let me clarify, if the tensioner looks like its a billit settup and not a bolt that has been tapped. If it looks like this, you have the updated one. Id just recommend replacing the copper nut.

cool i have the good one then.
txs
OD

Let me clarify, if the tensioner looks like its a billit settup and not a bolt that has been tapped. If it looks like this, you have the updated one. Id just recommend replacing the copper nut.

I have seen that picture somewhere.....
:)

My exhaust was nasty:
It is shiny now....
:)

did ya polish it or dip it???

did ya polish it or dip it???

NeverDull is a tin can of chemically treated cotton.
You hand rub the chrome with this stuff and the crud just wipes right off.
:)

do you have any staining I polished mine out but there is still some yelowing in some areas...

english shine stuff is the best--cant remember the real name for it. other than that use Zex.
never dull is ok you will just work your butt off getting it right. course my tips are 5 yrs old and get so hot on the track that my exhaust guards have melted!
OD

english shine stuff is the best--cant remember the real name for it. other than that use Zex.

English Custom Polish

never dull is ok you will just work your butt off getting it right.


I did not say it was easy on me. :banghead:

Another thing to check if your seeing slippage if the allen bolt isnt torqued enough. If your belt is tight as hell and you still have a problem hit that allen with a impact, dont over do it.


Sweet, I got almost 3/4 of a turn on it.
Mine was looser than my High School sweet heart. :uhh:

damn you had a better time in high school than i did

what allen bolt yall taking about ---on the blower front drive--i assume?
OD

damn you had a better time in high school than i did

OD

heh - my thoughts as well . Damn it !!!!

damn you had a better time in high school than i did

what allen bolt yall taking about ---on the blower front drive--i assume?
OD

Yeah, Front pulley bolt on the blower, and I think that was my mystery long term trims.
I guess my ECU was in "Sybil mode"; I has boost, less boost, I has boost, no boost etc.

I can see how a slipping belt or pulley will make high boost, low boost and drive the ECU insane trying to keep up.
I will see if my trims build again. :uhh:

Need methanol now, I do not like where my A/F was heading.
Light foot till next weekend's new methanol hose.
Pretty hoses:
(http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/popup_image.php?pID=122&image=0)

Dude nice load number--i can only hit 160 at 8.5 K My A/f's in that range is in the low to mid 11"s but my timing is different. I am at 20 degrees --i see you are at 17. ??????

Christmas came early i now have the moroso air water coolant tank ---sure is nice--- 3.5 qt capacity with fuel cell type lid and nice threaded brass plumbing fixtures. It will require a little fabrication to fit but it will not be a big prob---Moon and Cam ya'll ought to include this in the kit Man-- for approx $175 it sure "upgrades" the install. Looks so much better than that very functional plastic bottle. Seriously.
Also it was time to get a "real" tool chest. Summit has a Clarke, 9 drawer lockable, roller bearing, tool padding already installed, VERY well built chest for $165. Best price I could find for this type of chest.
Guys---trust me on this one ---get the tank. Pics as soon as I can get it installed---right now I have Honey do stuff like installing a hardwood floor to finish. Grumble.
OD

Dude nice load number--i can only hit 160 at 8.5 K My A/f's in that range is in the low to mid 11"s but my timing is different. I am at 20 degrees --i see you are at 17. ??????

Yeah, 3 more degrees would be nice.
Cam knows you track your car....
With the MAF readings I have, I really don't know if more advance would help me though.

Need methanol now, I do not like where my A/F was heading.
Light foot till next weekend's new methanol hose.
Pretty hoses:
(http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/popup_image.php?pID=122&image=0)

Might want to watch the aluminum hose ends...they will be OK if the anodization stays intact...but meth will eat the aluminum faster than you can say "Jack Robinson"

Brass hose ends are a much better option that aluminum ( and cheaper :) )

Might want to watch the aluminum hose ends...they will be OK if the anodization stays intact...but meth will eat the aluminum faster than you can say "Jack Robinson"

Brass hose ends are a much better option that aluminum ( and cheaper :) )


Bummer.

:icon_no2::icon_no2::icon_no2::icon_no2::icon_no2: :icon_no2:

:banghead:

Dude nice load number--i can only hit 160 at 8.5 K My A/f's in that range is in the low to mid 11"s but my timing is different. I am at 20 degrees --i see you are at 17. ??????

Christmas came early i now have the moroso air water coolant tank ---sure is nice--- 3.5 qt capacity with fuel cell type lid and nice threaded brass plumbing fixtures. It will require a little fabrication to fit but it will not be a big prob---Moon and Cam ya'll ought to include this in the kit Man-- for approx $175 it sure "upgrades" the install. Looks so much better than that very functional plastic bottle. Seriously.
Also it was time to get a "real" tool chest. Summit has a Clarke, 9 drawer lockable, roller bearing, tool padding already installed, VERY well built chest for $165. Best price I could find for this type of chest.
Guys---trust me on this one ---get the tank. Pics as soon as I can get it installed---right now I have Honey do stuff like installing a hardwood floor to finish. Grumble.
OD

Did you get the one made for mustangs? It looks really nice. Can't wait to see pics. What size hose fittings are on it? I plan on stockpiling many parts while I'm deployed. This may have to be one of them.

the hoses that come with the pettit kit will fit--get the one for the pre 2005 mustangs so the fittings will be in the best position.
olddragger

Sweet, I got almost 3/4 of a turn on it.
Mine was looser than my High School sweet heart. :uhh:

Make sure your belt isnt to tight.

Does anyone else have a hell of a time trying to tighten their belt? I would like mine to be "just a little tighter" and I can't get it

Id recomend that all the owners that are having slippage problems check the pully bolt before you try cranking down that belt to much. You might cause damage if it is the problem like to much tension on the crank pully. And if you still have that copper nut after tightening it and lossening it alot im pretty sure its gona lossen on its own.

Make sure your belt isn't to tight.

I can just turn it 90 degrees.
Boost is steady and comes on very fast.
I am waiting to see if my long term trims are gone. :)

Does anyone else have a hell of a time trying to tighten their belt? I would like mine to be "just a little tighter" and I can't get it

If you have a single "knurled nut" on the adjusting bolt(circled in picture), add a lock nut under the knurled nut on the adjustment bolt.
Before tightening the belt more, check the pulley bolt in the center of the top S/C pulley.
I torqued my S/C pulley bolt to 65 ft-lbs with a two foot torque wrench and a giant belt type oil filter wrench, Moon suggests snugging it down with an air impact.
Tightening that top S/C pulley center bolt made a huge difference.

Note: The top S/C pulley is partially seen in the upper right side of the attached picture.

Next time I have the belt off, I'll check the pully tightness using a oil filter belt wrench. With the compressor belt on, it turns. I can barely turn the belt to 90, it just seems like it should be tighter.

no --belt no tighter than that--too much tension on that belt ---and well you know.
One thing i have also done is to put a lock nut on that belt tension bolt.
I have two nuts on the bottom of the bolt with the threads scored beneath those(make sure to give yourself room enough to loosen it so the belt can be removed) THEN put a lock nut on TOP of the adjustment arm(same bolt). That way everything is nice and tight and solid.
Also dont use this bolt to adjust belt tension. Use a leverage bar to push the tension pulley where you want it--tighten the brass nut a little (its will hold the pulley true and square) THEN tighten the bolt snug.
That will do it
?--what torque is on that allen bolt?
olddragger

Well, went out and drove the piss out of her today and logged it. Didn't notice any slippage.

Need methanol now, I do not like where my A/F was heading.
Light foot till next weekend's new methanol hose.


your timing is pretty conservative there Rote8
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136731&d=1239401822

How do yall like this engine bay?http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137260&stc=1&d=1240161865

needs cleaning up a little but it is staring to get there.
olddragger

OMFG Denny with big picture?????
You best get crakin on showing us some of those custom piece your workin on.....
Good Job...

i dont know how i did that big pic?
OD

nice engine bay, now u just need to get that battery in the trunk!

I think I may have asked this before but having that large image up respurred the question, what is the prurpose of polishing out the end of the IC???

I think I may have asked this before but having that large image up respurred the question, what is the prurpose of polishing out the end of the IC???

That is the spot the cat rubs against when he is working on the engine bay...
:uhh:

/Mine prefers the radiator shroud.

its a fake junction--i hide nitrous there.
OD

How do yall like this engine bay?http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137260&stc=1&d=1240161865

needs cleaning up a little but it is staring to get there.
olddragger

bay is looking good denny. i will have lots of new shinny toys on the car for rr.

btw, i am going to teach you how to attach a big photo that weekend..

is that a real cf maf housing?? :lol:

beers :beer:

Well, its time to move on so I decided to move back up to MD. I plan on setting up shop there ASAP for those in the area. It might take some time to get up and running. Im pulling out of my house here and hope to buy one up there but im doing a short sale of my house down here so im going to take a hit on my credit. My brother is going to help me settle in up there but we are still searching for either land to build a house on or a good deal on built house with a good amount of property in Fredrick so I can build a HUGE garage/ fab shop. Wish me luck.

Well, its time to move on so I decided to move back up to MD. I plan on setting up shop there ASAP for those in the area. It might take some time to get up and running. Im pulling out of my house here and hope to buy one up there but im doing a short sale of my house down here so im going to take a hit on my credit. My brother is going to help me settle in up there but we are still searching for either land to build a house on or a good deal on built house with a good amount of property in Fredrick so I can build a HUGE garage/ fab shop. Wish me luck.

What happenend Moon?

Sorry to hear your short selling but I do wish you luck with your move.

any updates with our map yet Phil?

any updates with our map yet Phil?
Yup, if the creek don't rise and the power fail with the computer again, the map should be up in a trial form by the end of the month. Look for it on the 1st post of the thread. My helper's computer died half way thru the map. It is supposed to be up now so we will see.

Dang Moon it wont be the same without you at Pettit. Dude wish you the best---1st winter and I bet you will want to become a snowbird!
Please stay in touch.
olddragger

What happenend Moon?

Well, all I have to say is its just time to move on. I didnt really want to move down here to FL but I was told buy my doctors that the metal in my back would never come out. If you can imagine what cold weather can do to metal just bellow your skin youd now why I moved to FL. Its all out of my body now and im not effected buy the cold like used to be. I have alot of friends still up there and im kinda home sick also.

Well, all I have to say is its just time to move on. I didnt really want to move down here to FL but I was told buy my doctors that the metal in my back would never come out. If you can imagine what cold weather can do to metal just bellow your skin youd now why I moved to FL. Its all out of my body now and im not effected buy the cold like used to be. I have alot of friends still up there and im kinda home sick also.

Moon,
I am happy you were able to have the metal removed, and wish you the best of luck in Maryland, but do not think you can get away from us that easy......
I hope you are never that far away that you cannot log on this board.

:):):):):)

he'll still be on,,, now hes about a half hour away from me:) an we desperately need a rotary tech up here,,, plus this will make the development of the Street Ray that much easier... We are glad to have Moon come back to his roots...

Yeh, lookout Baltimore, here I come.

It was brought up to me buy Greg about the coolers to relive the high temps of the 8s in warm weather. Gregs kit is ready to rock but Cam needs some motivation on getting them into production so give him a call and tell him your interested, itl get him to start mass producing them and im positive its going to fix the hot engine temps. From the testing weve done on Cams car it deffinatly showed a major improvement.

I had a request already for a turbo instal, hell no. Im never installing another turbo on an 8, I have to get that strait.

hey guys had some fun today in the same spot where my cat blew out at 120mph...
Hit 128mph before having to let off for traffic... Man the shift from 5th to 6th gear at around 120mph sounds absolutely wicked..... :evil_laug:evil_laug:evil_laug

Better watch it up there, you dont need a ticket. Or on the other note, this could happen. Take into consideration dont try to dodge this from happinin, just hit it and stop but im not cleaning it, you gotta get the hair and guts out of the pullys, lol.

I just hit a fox too.. They can do some damage I tell you! 8(

Is anyone running the yukon coils? I know Juan has those super duper msd's but is anyone else running an aftermarket ignition setup? How did yall mount etc?
olddragger

Nope wiating fo rBHR to work out thier problems with thier setup, I jsut sold my unopened Mazsport kit...

what exactly is the problem with the bhr kit? Dwell?
If that is it --does cam change dwell with his flash--I dont think he does?
I have been running the yukons for some months now without a prob? Should I go back to the oems?
Rather be safe than sorry.
OD

Is anyone running the yukon coils? I know Juan has those super duper msd's but is anyone else running an aftermarket ignition setup? How did yall mount etc?
olddragger

I had four LS2 coils till last night, my MSD coils came in yesterday.:)
My bracket will not hold 4 of the MSD coils, they are wider than the LS2s. :banghead:
I now have 2 MSD 8247 coils on the leading plugs, and 2 LS2 coils on the trailing side.
I have not really meant to run it hard it since the coil change, but it is so smooth, I didn't notice and hit 7K :uhh:

Spark plugs are gapped at .035
Spark plug wires are MSD 8.5 mm.

what exactly is the problem with the bhr kit? Dwell?
If that is it --does cam change dwell with his flash--I dont think he does?
I have been running the yukons for some months now without a prob? Should I go back to the oems?
Rather be safe than sorry.
OD

Charles created a whole thread about it in the aftermarket section, and is most pertanate to us FI guys...

Hi all !! :ylsuper:

just a good news (for me :cwm27:)

I start the installation of my pettit kit :D
I Can't wait !!!!!!!!!!!!! :eyetwitch
(And I add to the kit the racing beat ram air duct :Lol: )

Congrats man! First Pettit kit in the West Indies :)

yup congrats, Ibet your so anxious you cant sleep,,, thats what happened to me during my install...

Left Pettit Racing's shop in Palm Beach with 17,778 miles and a supercharger almost two years ago.

:smiley309

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc7/bastage_2005/20000.jpg

20,000 miles later, still kicking ass! :lol2:

:rock:

:ylsuper::djcelebra:git:

Nice, lots of track days, dyno days, 1/4 miles and not much down time listening to yoga music, lol.