i am happy with the performance i have now.
i would like to redesign the a/w coolant tank, mount it outside the engine bay, larger capacity and possibly a larger higher flow pump and exchangers with larger pipes that have turbonators inside the tubes --agitating the water flow. shooting for a consistent 10-20 degree above above ambient ability--in the surburbs.
after that i will have room to modify the rb intake box--with plexaglass top insert, fit it after custom cutting. it would be supplied by a cool air supply--not completely sealed.
possibly a 2009 trans!!!!!
I think i am getting delusional.
olddragger

Funny you should say that Phill. Im thinking of either picking up a blown 4 port or possibly using the one I have and doing a 6 port 6 speed auto swap. Even a 6 port swap out and keeping the 4 speed since its a stronger tranny. gotta cool it dowm some more but it might work.

Funny you should say that Phill. Im thinking of either picking up a blown 4 port or possibly using the one I have and doing a 6 port 6 speed auto swap. Even a 6 port swap out and keeping the 4 speed since its a stronger tranny. gotta cool it dowm some more but it might work.

My thoughts were along the same line. Before I jump, I want to see what the feasibility of a 6 port engine with the four speed A/T tranny would be. I know the ECU would have to be changed but how much of the ECU controls the transmission in a six port? Could the Cobb AP be used to make the needed changes to the ECU? I can't see the six speed A/T as a viable alternative in the existing four port car and still keep it operating as intended.

Yea if we can just get the heat under control first these other little things may work out. I am hoping that some of the changes that Ray is doing to my engine will help with the cooling.

If my engine ever decides to die, I hope it happens after that 16X is out. Seems like a 16X swap would be more interesting...

If my engine ever decides to die, I hope it happens after that 16X is out. Seems like a 16X swap would be more interesting...

I'm not sure ether one of us will live that long:uhh: :) Every time I talk to someone in the know, the release date gets further away. I don't think I will hold my breath for the 16x.

phil --you got a secondary radiator now?
OD

phil --you got a secondary radiator now?
OD
I own two two extra rads, you would have to ask Ray if he is installing any of them. He still has my car and says he should complete it soon:).

My thoughts were along the same line. Before I jump, I want to see what the feasibility of a 6 port engine with the four speed A/T tranny would be. I know the ECU would have to be changed but how much of the ECU controls the transmission in a six port? Could the Cobb AP be used to make the needed changes to the ECU? I can't see the six speed A/T as a viable alternative in the existing four port car and still keep it operating as intended.

Yea if we can just get the heat under control first these other little things may work out. I am hoping that some of the changes that Ray is doing to my engine will help with the cooling.

Talked to Jeff and the Cobb is not able to make the needed changes in the trans selection of a 6 port even if I got a a/t six port. It could be made to work but not like stock and I don't want something I have to explain how to drive it.
Well it was an idea.

I'm not sure ether one of us will live that long:uhh: :) Every time I talk to someone in the know, the release date gets further away. I don't think I will hold my breath for the 16x.

Bummer! I don't plan on having my engine die any time soon anyway... weather is cooling down noticeably over here, so I survived my third summer (second boosted).

BTW, any word what are they going to release it in if/when they do get around to it?

Bummer! I don't plan on having my engine die any time soon anyway... weather is cooling down noticeably over here, so I survived my third summer (second boosted).

BTW, any word what are they going to release it in if/when they do get around to it?
Unofficially, it was scheduled to go into something for a 2011 release date but I understand the engine works fine but they can't cool it sufficiently for a general release. You may see the 16x come out as an experimental hybrid engine to be used for racing in 2010. Of course you know how secretive Mazda is, hell it could come out tomorrow.

ok i have ditched on one of my "winter mods". This is what I have found.
I installed a thermometer into the a/w coolant tank to measure the coolants temps relative to intake air temps(not maf recorded temps) post intercooler, and engine temps. I was looking for heat soak issues etc. all of this is without the w/m system.
findings:
1- under normal driving conditions the air charge temps and the coolant temp are nearly the same--give or take some tenths of a degree.
2- under full throttle conditions they are not and it acclumulates. The coolant temp will be as much as 5-10 degress cooler than the air charge temps on a single run through 2nd gear and 1/2 third gear. This will occur up until about an air charge tempt of approx 140 degrees. The car starts loosing power when charge temps get to 125F and can be significantly felt at a charge temp of 140F ( i didnt stay there long!) And it takes a good while to cool it back down.
My thoughts on this is that the intercooler itself is too small for all out driving say on a road track --everyday use it is fine--just be aware of the issue.
I did not see any heat soak issues from where the tank is currently mounted.
There is no needed to upgrade the pump or tank unless you upgrade the intercooler and presently i dont know of an option thats available.
Thats it--maybe we can get to work on a bigger intercooler.
once again if you track your car with this package on then--GET A W/M system!
olddragger

ok i have ditched on one of my "winter mods". This is what I have found.
I installed a thermometer into the a/w coolant tank to measure the coolants temps relative to intake air temps(not maf recorded temps) post intercooler, and engine temps. I was looking for heat soak issues etc. all of this is without the w/m system.
findings:
1- under normal driving conditions the air charge temps and the coolant temp are nearly the same--give or take some tenths of a degree.
2- under full throttle conditions they are not and it acclumulates. The coolant temp will be as much as 5-10 degress cooler than the air charge temps on a single run through 2nd gear and 1/2 third gear. This will occur up until about an air charge tempt of approx 140 degrees. The car starts loosing power when charge temps get to 125F and can be significantly felt at a charge temp of 140F ( i didnt stay there long!) And it takes a good while to cool it back down.
My thoughts on this is that the intercooler itself is too small for all out driving say on a road track --everyday use it is fine--just be aware of the issue.
I did not see any heat soak issues from where the tank is currently mounted.
There is no needed to upgrade the pump or tank unless you upgrade the intercooler and presently i don't know of an option thats available.
Thats it--maybe we can get to work on a bigger intercooler.
once again if you track your car with this package on then--GET A W/M system!
olddragger
I ran across the high charge temps a while back but assumed it was because of the desert environment. Ray installed a larger i/c in my car that seemed to take care of the problem but for some reason I loose "prime" on my pump occasionally and the temps go crazy. Now that may correct itself when Ray get done with the rebuild.

to fix the prime problem all you have to do is to install a tube in the receiving fitting of the coolant tank so that the coolant always covers that source. Then you will never lose prime. Just run a tube down until it is submerged.
AT full throttle it is the intercooler itself (on top of the s/c) that is being overwhelmed--not the 2 heat exchangers in the front of the car.
OD

to fix the prime problem all you have to do is to install a tube in the receiving fitting of the coolant tank so that the coolant always covers that source. Then you will never lose prime. Just run a tube down until it is submerged.
AT full throttle it is the intercooler itself (on top of the s/c) that is being overwhelmed--not the 2 heat exchangers in the front of the car.
OD
I'll try that prime hose - should work, makes sense. Ray cooled the charge temp down by adding a larger exchanger and changing it's location slightly. It worked for me.

An idea I had and it might be food for thought Phill. Replace your 4 port engine with a 6 port and adapt your 4 port intake intake setup to fit, just open up the barral valve area to take even more advantage of the port. Ill do your lower intake if you want. I had the plans to do the same thing but im gona see how many more miles I can get out of the stocker. Id say the only thing youd need to keep it running like stock is BIG secoundary injectors. You can re scale them with the cobb. You can spin those hydrolics in the tranny an extra 500 PRMs here or there putting down 280 maybe more. Im sure if you take the proper precotions like extra oil cooler and a good tranny cooler.

Since we're disconnecting the upper-valve on our 6-ports, aren't we now technically 4-ports as well? Or am I bass-ackwards and the upper-valve is now allways open?

No, your upper shutter valve increases velocity in a NA setting buy connecting both banks of ports at hight RPM, keeping that valve closed in a boosted application keeps the ports areo dynamic throughout your entire RPM range. Its pretty much useless, if not bad since id, see a little boost spike when it opened. You want to see drop in psi when a port opens, if you see it spike with a SC it meens disruption of flow.

Bastage:
Phil recently spoke about the possibility of putting a 6 port in there. No go... (see comments below)
An idea I had and it might be food for thought Phill. Replace your 4 port engine with a 6 port and adapt your 4 port intake intake setup to fit, just open up the barral valve area to take even more advantage of the port. Ill do your lower intake if you want. I had the plans to do the same thing but im gona see how many more miles I can get out of the stocker. Id say the only thing youd need to keep it running like stock is BIG secoundary injectors. You can re scale them with the cobb. You can spin those hydrolics in the tranny an extra 500 PRMs here or there putting down 280 maybe more. Im sure if you take the proper precotions like extra oil cooler and a good tranny cooler.

My thoughts were along the same line. Before I jump, I want to see what the feasibility of a 6 port engine with the four speed A/T tranny would be. I know the ECU would have to be changed but how much of the ECU controls the transmission in a six port? Could the Cobb AP be used to make the needed changes to the ECU? I can't see the six speed A/T as a viable alternative in the existing four port car and still keep it operating as intended.

Yea if we can just get the heat under control first these other little things may work out. I am hoping that some of the changes that Ray is doing to my engine will help with the cooling.

Talked to Jeff and the Cobb is not able to make the needed changes in the trans selection of a 6 port even if I got a a/t six port. It could be made to work but not like stock and I don't want something I have to explain how to drive it.
Well it was an idea.

Bastage:
Phil recently spoke about the possibility of putting a 6 port in there. No go... (see comments below)

Yeah, saw that. It sucks. He'd have to get a new ECU and a new transmission I guess.

Hopefully the 16X will be easier, but I doubt it.

I have yet to install the lower intake manifold in where i eliminated the vdi in entirety. I also smoothed those passageways a good bit--made them a tad larger on the top . also shaved some of the excess aluminum off the entire intake and polished it. It is noticeably lighter--looks better. I was hoping for some phenoic material to make a intake gasket out of when i did put it on, but cant find any yet.
On the intercooler---glad your overall charge temps are good Phil, but when the coolant of the system is cooler than the actual charge temp it means that there is not enough intercooler efficiency to cool the amount of air that is crossing it. This can be slight or it can be large. remember with water it all accumulates and once it saturates it will take a long time to cool back off.
Are you saying that when you are doing full throttle runs your a/w coolant is the same temp as your charge temps? If they are then I need to know what I am doing wrong as we have the same intercooler?
Cant wait to see that baby running again!
OD

What I was trying to tell ya Phill is there isnt any need to change the ECU or the tranny for that matter. Just gotta modify your intake to handle the extra flow to feed the extra port (hard to explain) its possible and easy to do, for me atleast. When you get your new motor have Charls give you 6 port housings instead of the 4 port ones. The intake will be cake, while you have it appart you should take your tranny to a specialist to instal a shift kit and strainthen it. That alone shouldnt cost you more then $1500. And im sure BHR has the 6 port housings more readealy available then the 4 ports, last time I checked you can get all the 6 port steel housings for $900 or $1000 new, the same price as the 4 ports. Its not a question as to if it would work, it will. That extra port will make your car just as fast as or faster then a 6 speed MT. Just rember to find HUGE secoundary injectors.

On the intercooler---glad your overall charge temps are good Phil, but when the coolant of the system is cooler than the actual charge temp it means that there is not enough intercooler efficiency to cool the amount of air that is crossing it. This can be slight or it can be large. remember with water it all accumulates and once it saturates it will take a long time to cool back off.
Are you saying that when you are doing full throttle runs your a/w coolant is the same temp as your charge temps? If they are then I need to know what I am doing wrong as we have the same intercooler?
Cant wait to see that baby running again!
OD

This can also mean the water is flowing through the inter-cooler too fast, not allowing the water to heat soak in the liquid to air I/C.

Hmmm, how to slow the pump.

This can also mean the water is flowing through the inter-cooler too fast, not allowing the water to heat soak in the liquid to air I/C.

Hmmm, how to slow the pump.

Don't bother -- thats a wrong assumption.

Slowing the pump is the opposite of what you want to do. Pettit did the right thing by putting the heat exchangers in parallel to reduce restriction and increase flow rate. I've already tested putting the exchangers in series instead of parallel and it is worse. Unlike positive displacement pumps, centrifugal water pump flow rate drops off dramatically with increased restriction. When talking to Cam about this at 7stock, he knew this all along-- If I was smart I would have saved time and trusted Pettit to have tested this already, but I like to experiment and find things out for myself.

Consider the physics-- at infinite pump flow rate the water becomes a perfect conductor of heat and would be the exact same temperature in the intercooler as in the heat exchangers. There is no such thing as water moving too fast unless you're talking such high flow rates that the pressure in the I/C ruptures the core or significantly increases electrical/alternator load.

As you approach infinite water flow, the heat transfer equation reduces down to just intercooler vs. heat exchanger efficiency. We obviously cannot hit infinite flow rate, but we can asymptotically approach it with bigger pumps. How close we are already to ideal heat transfer with the flow rate we have from the existing pump is unknown, but could be measured by checking water temperature post heat exchangers vs. post I/C. If there is a significant difference, there could be gains in going to a higher flow pump but my guess is that Pettit already tried this and found the sweet spot of cost vs. efficiency.

nice Joff thanks
Glad we all like to experiment-- i too tried the series hookup--same results!! Also tired bigger heat exchangers up front--actually was a little worst.
OD

Hey Moon have you and Cam tested out those bottom undertray heat exchangers yet?

Yeh, we installed them in Cams car. As far as we can see its a way better option then going with an after market rad because it pulls your temps down, way down. We havent done any really hot weather testing yet over 95 but im sure there a winner. The only thing we need to do is maybe add stone deflectors. Another cool thing is there stackable, if you need to cool more you just add another pair. So-far lets say on a 95 degree day were seeing 175- 180 max, last year I rember seeing 210 on a day like that.

and it cools down even faster if it get to 190! Heck now a days since its cooler (65-85) once the thermostat opens fully at 180F, while on the hwy i see temps 155 to 160 both coolant and oil. Before I was seeing about 175-180.
it drops fast too. One of the best mods we have ever done. Good job Moon
olddragger

Wait I didnt think anyone had a hand on these yet are they on the market or are you talking about your own setup Denny???

I drove the car to work today after installing the heat shield material around the blower and here is what I noticed. My IAT after the blower stayed very low while driving and remained low after meth injection. I was driving at 85 mph, ambient temp 86, AC on, engine temp 183, oil temp 223 and IAT at 110. But when I downshifted and the meth came on the IAT went down to 83 and it took over 10 minutes to reach 110 again all that while cruising at 85 mph and AC on. Basically, the heat shield material does work as long as there is airflow. BTW, I got to smack a nicely mod G35. Not once but four times before the driver realized that I drive a “not so conventional RX8”. The look on his face…Priceless! :eyetwitch

That is nice to hear. Blow them away, not torbonate your motor, LOL.

Hmm, good for a bumpersticker, time to step up, lol. Still gotta rember this guy though, he had more then words could say. It was hard to keep from laughing my ass of fseeing the face of the guy behind me, :lol:

Yea!!!!
Juan why the heck are your temps so high? Oil at 223?
are you measuring directly from the pan or something? Coolant at 180F? on interstate at 85mph and ambients in mid 80"s, a/c on my coolant is 155-160 and same with oil(i measure from filter)
my iat's are like yours--shielding does work
i am starting to work on a custom fit shield that doesnt touch the intake but does stay close to it.
i just took the vdi vacuum activator off (switch still intact) and it is amazing how much room you have around there afterward.
SHould see what I did with that dangf ugly black alternator arm mount--now it purty--all polished and drilled.Ahhhhh:)
OD

^ your coolant should never be at 160 if the vehicle is warmed up.

Yea!!!!
Juan why the heck are your temps so high? Oil at 223?
are you measuring directly from the pan or something? Coolant at 180F? on interstate at 85mph and ambients in mid 80"s, a/c on my coolant is 155-160 and same with oil(i measure from filter)
my iat's are like yours--shielding does work OD

My oil engine temp sensor is located in the Greddy oil pan.

My engine runs hotter because I run MSD ignition coils and NGK 10.5 leading 11.5 trailing.

Driving back from work today ambient temp 76, AIT was 109 at 85 mph AC off. Downshift to 5th meth on (but spraying windshield washer fluid cuz I ran out of meth and Rote8 was kind enough to stop by the airport and drop some winshield washer fluid) and up to 140 mph, AIT 84. :eyetwitch

why shouldnt the temp be at 160? That is not a problem.:)
Well my idler pulley bearing just started squeaking. i know they are pretty universal, but until i can get one IS IT OK TO DRIVE THE CARE WITHOUT THE S.C. BELT ON IT? If i remember correctly someone told me you could.
Await expert word on this. Quick response if you please.
OD

160 is too cool. Why not drive the crap out of the car when you start it up in the morning? You want everything warmed up. Mazda sets up the vehicle to operate in the 190-200 F range. The issue is that once the car starts to get over 210 F, it can be difficult to bring the temps back down. So we overdo it and cool down the vehicle further so that there is more leg room.

My car usually sits in the 183-185 F range and I'm wondering if I should increase the temp that the fan kicks in since it's barely warm enough. I have underdrive pulleys and the mazmart water pump. I don't think I've seen above 190 F since installing them.

I respectfully disagree--one main reason Cars are set up to run that hot is emissions.
That is not an issue with me. I know of of endurance racers with just as tight of clearances as we have that try to keep their cars at 150F or so.
The 155-160 for me is during very light and constant cruising--interstate--70mph
i have a 180F thermostat and just as soon as i start to drive the car a little temps go to that about that range 170-180.
Can anyone answer my question about running the car without the sc belt on?
OD

Can anyone answer my question about running the car without the sc belt on?
OD

I was wondering the same thing I was even thinking of picking up an AP so I could have the Petit flash, and the RB Street flash and lastest OEM flash if I ever had to run without the belt... anyone else have ideas on this???

I respectfully disagree--one main reason Cars are set up to run that hot is emissions.

Maybe you're right. I saw on the aviation forums they like the engine to run in the 160 F range. But I don't know if their needs are the same as ours. I've only read that for engine efficiency sake that it's desirable for the engine to be closer to 190 F. If that efficiency is for emissions alone, then I'm right with you on that.

Ive run withought the belt, you shouldnt have any problems. Tell us how it runs OD, im curios, The SC is still gona spin but the buypass valve makes up for that. As for your 160 temps, thats AWSOME but if you see it any cooler you might want to kink one off your cooler lines for the time being just incase we see anymore hot days this year.

I was wondering the same thing I was even thinking of picking up an AP so I could have the Petit flash, and the RB Street flash and lastest OEM flash if I ever had to run without the belt... anyone else have ideas on this???

Yes, you can run without the belt. I have done it in the past for many thousands of miles. I have the AP as well as the EFI Dude, so I just popped in a NA map, but the EFI Dude map should still work.

Yes, you can run without the belt. I have done it in the past for many thousands of miles. I have the AP as well as the EFI Dude, so I just popped in a NA map, but the EFI Dude map should still work.

You mean the Petit map? I have the Dude now and its just a data logger right? or can you load a map onto it....

It also has a flashing capability. Some purchased theirs with it allready installed, and others like me did it in parts.

you also can run her without the belt on and no reflash--just dont drive her hard.so if something does go wrong or even if you break the belt---no problem
its a weak ass car but does drive ok. takes off ok--pulls the a/c ok etc
if the idler pulley ever squeaks on ya --check its alignment:)
olddragger

Hey guys. I created my own map with the access tuner race software. I'm currently on my 5th version. Wish me luck!!

Good luck make sure to give us all your details, additional mods, temps, and dyno runs..

Funny.

I heard a rumor (from Cam at Seven Stock) that there are at least 3 more owners on the forum that don't show up on our owners list. If you will post or PM me your information I'll get you on the list.

Good luck make sure to give us all your details, additional mods, temps, and dyno runs..

number of engines blown , etc etc ....... :lol:

I haven't blown anything up yet. My motor has @90k, 20k of which have been boosted. I've used 4 different engine management systems(including our OE computer) on my SC kit w/ tunes from so rich you couldn't breathe to so lean I've had to back out of the throttle because of detonation.

I am now on the 7th version of my own personal map. After 3 hours of work the first night I had a map that idles better than maps I have received from supposed experts, not to mention STFT and LTFT were dead on accurate.

Either tuning is easier than the "experts" would have you believe, or I am just really lucky I haven't smoked my **** yet.

On second thought, I must be lucky.

I haven't blown anything up yet. My motor has @90k, 20k of which have been boosted. I've used 4 different engine management systems(including our OE computer) on my SC kit w/ tunes from so rich you couldn't breathe to so lean I've had to back out of the throttle because of detonation.

I am now on the 7th version of my own personal map. After 3 hours of work the first night I had a map that idles better than maps I have received from supposed experts, not to mention STFT and LTFT were dead on accurate.

Either tuning is easier than the "experts" would have you believe, or I am just really lucky I haven't smoked my **** yet.

On second thought, I must be lucky.

Similar sentiments here.

I'm not nearly as far along as you, but I also had idle problems with the AP tune I had. Since the Accesstuner Race software came out, I was also able to fix this myself and its turning out to not be too difficult. I am definitely no expert.

Good to hear you guys are having so much success. Thanks for proving to everyone that tuning is not rocket science, as some experts would like to lead people to believe.

what idle speed do you have? I would like a 900 to 1K idle.
OD

Thats funny, no more you cant tune that way and YOUR KILLING YOUR POOR car crap. Ive heard alot about how the 13B is a better motor bacause you can turbocharge it. From what ive seen the renissis is a stronger motor if you dont over heat it. I heard some pings, not on my car but on the early testing of the rennisis that would destroy apex seals on a center port motor and :puke: parts out the turbo.

what idle speed do you have? I would like a 900 to 1K idle.
OD

I tried 1k, but it wasn't quite as nice as 1.1k

gotcha--understand why I think.
OD

I'm looking to add three more gauges to my set and have been looking for that center dash mount that could have been used with the Nav system. I can't find it anywhere. Is there anyone here that knows where I can find it?

Its from AutoExe,, herea link to japanparts there are other gauge setups too...
http://www.japanparts.com/db/partslist.php?dealer=6&car=93&middle=2&small=10

Its from AutoExe,, herea link to japanparts there are other gauge setups too...
http://www.japanparts.com/db/partslist.php?dealer=6&car=93&middle=2&small=10

That is what I am looking for - Thank You They used to sell it on ebay but I have not been able to find it and was hoping someone would know where.

well i redid the idler pulley assembly mating some of the oem parts to ours. its better.
on a free spin test is spins much easier and the pressure on the race /bearing is much more evenly done.
See if yall can figure it all out.
OD

Stop being vague and show us some pics old man.

teach a man to fish and he will never be hungry:).
od

I thought someone allready taught you to post pictures.....heheh

I'm getting much closer to a good map.....I think. I figured out how to get 20+mpg while cruising@80 on the hwy. I've gotten 240 miles on 13gal. That is mostly city/some hwy. I'd like to see what I can get w/out doing any WOT runs, but you guys know how it is.

Oh, I need to drive it this week on the latest version to be sure, but my LTFT is dead 0.

I allmost forgot to ask....What kind of "combined" milage is everyone seeing.

uh---i am getting 22-23 on the road(interstate 70mph with a/c on)around town 16-17
driving normally. most of the time this is out of boost. But into boost when passing etc.
olddragger

Stop being vague and show us some pics old man.

+1

Denny,

Please take a digital picture taking and posting 101 please. Some of us need to see it in order to appreciate/understand. Is kinda like reading porn and watching porn. I don’t know about the rest of yall but watching is better. Although the real thing is always best, especially when you end up with guacamole all over your face. :eyetwitch

+1

Denny,

Please take a digital picture taking and posting 101 please. Some of us need to see it in order to appreciate/understand. Is kinda like reading porn and watching porn. I don’t know about the rest of yall but watching is better. Although the real thing is always best, especially when you end up with guacamole all over your face. :eyetwitch

:lol2: :lol:

+1

Although the real thing is always best, especially when you end up with guacamole all over your face. :eyetwitch

Thats classic, +another

ok post a pic of THAT :) and I will post a pic of mine!

jk will try tomorrow night--no promises. i am almost out of medication.
Ok --
basically you have to:
1-widen the gap in the idler pulley mount so the oem pulley shaft fits well
2- flip the Pettit pulley around--the back is now the front--
3-, take the oem pulley rod/axle/nut combo and spacer then add 2 washers to the back part --between spacer and mount bar,
4-file the oem nut retainer/shaft thing down just a little so the retaining clip eyes (that hold the bearing in the pulley) clears when it rotates
5- make sure it lines up ok
and there you have it.
the front oem nut axle/shaft combo has a small protrusion/space that matches the inner bearing race perfectly on the front part as so does the back and thats the key for a better rotation.
ours matches the back part great but that washer on the front does drag just a little.
while you have the wheel off--paint or powder coat it!
there you have it--another tech secret from the Adams backyard dog squirrels racing team.
OD

ok post a pic of THAT :) and I will post a pic of mine!

jk will try tomorrow night--no promises. i am almost out of medication.
Ok --
basically you have to:
1-widen the gap in the idler pulley mount so the oem pulley shaft fits well
2- flip the Pettit pulley around--the back is now the front--
3-, take the oem pulley rod/axle/nut combo and spacer then add 2 washers to the back part --between spacer and mount bar,
4-file the oem nut retainer/shaft thing down just a little so the retaining clip eyes (that hold the bearing in the pulley) clears when it rotates
5- make sure it lines up ok
and there you have it.
the front oem nut axle/shaft combo has a small protrusion/space that matches the inner bearing race perfectly on the front part as so does the back and thats the key for a better rotation.
ours matches the back part great but that washer on the front does drag just a little.
while you have the wheel off--paint or powder coat it!
there you have it--another tech secret from the Adams backyard dog squirrels racing team.
OD

Nice try Denny but...FAIL! :eyetwitch

WeLLLLL---cant blame a guy for trying!!
od

I just ordered the Axial Flow SS and Ray's upgraded clutch pedal. Hopefully i'll be able to feel the difference.

You will I have the SS and its so much better, nice crisp short shifts.... such a better shiftng action you ll love it.....

+1--congrats! it will drive so much better
OD

no pics tonight guys had to go to pick up my newe nitto o1's
OD

That is a good excuse.

no pics tonight guys had to go to pick up my newe nitto o1's
OD

Sure... :eyetwitch

Ok I will post pics of those too:uhh: --plus someone wanted pics of my innovate o2 install---Helppppp:):Eyecrazy:
I will TRY tonight---double dog promise.
OD

Ok I will post pics of those too:uhh: --plus someone wanted pics of my innovate o2 install---Helppppp:):Eyecrazy:
I will TRY tonight---double dog promise.
OD

I triple dog dare you. :eyetwitch

Ok I am trying herehttp://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127698&stc=1&d=1224114834
car pics per tish_0.jpg

what did this do?
OD

Ok I am trying herehttp://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127698&stc=1&d=1224114834
car pics per tish_0.jpg

what did this do?
OD

Perfect! :eyetwitch

&&*^$@&*)((+*^)()(*^%_*((++((
damn pictures--cant get hem to resize--screw this--been trying for years!
figgingfrakinggingg*^%#%$&*
damn pictures.
OD
I HATE PICTURE POSTING!!!!!!

well at less you can see my helpers.
ODi

Someone go over to Denny's house and give him a tutorial on this I learn better when I have pics, I need pics,,, there is too much knowledge stuffed up in his head to let go to waste, someone anyone help....

ok i got drunk and i am trying aainhttp://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127707&stc=1&d=1224124061
tish rx8 pics_1.jpg
leets see
DO

Ha!
D

hmmmhttp://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127708&stc=1&d=1224124464
tish rx8 pics_0.jpg
hicup
D

I have similar problems posting pics........I feel for you OD.

hmmmhttp://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127708&stc=1&d=1224124464
tish rx8 pics_0.jpg
hicup
D

i better go to bed
ii tried
OD

I'm sorry OD, but this is sad.

I'm sorry OD, but this is sad.

More like...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ytCEuuW2_A :eyetwitch

OD - after all this time you Still have the air filter in the engine bay ?

course--where else--:)
I will never ever try to post any pictures ever GAIN IN MY TIRED MISERABLE INTERNET CHALLnged dYS
SORRY HUNG OVER
od

course--where else--:)
I will never ever try to post any pictures ever

Never give up! :eyetwitch

i cant believe i am trying againhttp://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127762&stc=1&d=1224202962
aaaaa.jpg
od

NEVER AGAIN
OD

i cant believe i am trying again http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127762&stc=1&d=1224202962
aaaaa.jpg
od

So Close OD

http://www.worldoffail.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/fail2.jpg

http://thecraptastics.files.wordpress.com/2008/04/fail.jpg

Well, not to change the subject but time for a leason, 1st a bad day

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSFggmz49Pk

2nd a really bad day

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UMjXAa26qw

3rd, the worst day

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsLllQznkG8

And when you thought it couldnt get any worse, you get this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srss6sLf17E&feature=related

heres another I remember seeing this a couple years ago...

i better go to bed
ii tried
OD

denny...can you please email me the pics..
i will host and post!!!

love you lots :)

I bet they looked like cannables after lunch

C'mon OD - I can depict more detail on postage stamps :p

I can't speak - I need to post some more pics up on my setup with the tensioner etc.

Cheers,
Hymee.

I can't speak - I need to post some more pics up on my setup with the tensioner etc.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Get-er-done! :eyetwitch

Dyno day at Pettit Sat the 18th, if your local come on over.

thanks for the diversion Moon!
Skinka--will do this w/e--i believe this is bail out #2 you have done for me!
OD

np OD
us oldtimers have to stick together!!!

w00t!

Get-er-done! :eyetwitch

corrected.

Get-er-done! bitch. soon! ;)

beers :beer:

Dyno day at Pettit Sat the 18th, if your local come on over.

I'll be there tomorrow! Let's see what kind of power we can get at redline?
Hopefully 300whp@8600rpm!

I'm just ashamed and disappointed.......all that good work we did......down the tubes. :banghead:

Just kiddin Denny! :lol2:

SHinka---Pat--hospital called me in this w/e--i will get themto ya sunday evening night ok--do i have your e mail?
OD

Pat has the pics----i think.
OD

was looking at Axial Flow's website tonite, and started thinkin,,,, Anyone else look at thier SC build pics and wonder if that UIM would fit the Petit setup.... Looks mighty close to me... Dont know why I thought that or if it would act any differnt then ours but that UIM looks awfully sexy... just some food for thought...

YAH!!!! got the pics....
comin up pronto!!!

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/5769/denny1zu2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3999/denny2tl7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/6119/denny3mg4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

You are the greatest Pat---really appreciate it!
Did the ones of my gauges come through?
I probably screwed that up also:).

On the idler pulley--notice the front nut is now from the oem idler which supports the bearing from the front and has a more precise--maybe-- front bearing retainer. Now Cam's setup is good--nothing wrong with it--i just enjoy tinkering with things. Notice also that a have a locking nuts:) on the pulley bracket on both sides of the bracket to insure there is no lateral movement during hard acceleration. That may not be needed--i just like it!
I just had to take a pic of my engine bay--how my a/w intercooler return hose now circles around, the metal reinforcement on top of the a/w bottle, the metal mesh and insulation on the bottom of the airbox, i took the air pump off, fender well oem insulation off, steel inserts for the w/m nozzles, my checker flag oil filler cap, the gold foil on the maf pipe(just purdy--serves no real purpose) ( i took the gold foil off the intake--it was making it retain heat!), how the vdi vacuum asembley is now gone --and more.
the tires /wheels are my track ons nitto nt01's 275/35/18 on rpf1's that are 9.5 inches wide. in the back ground that is a custom lower air intake i have been playing with for a while--may actully put it own one dayi-never have nstalled that odessy batty on the self. sighh.
olddragger

You are the greatest Pat---really appreciate it!
Did the ones of my gauges come through?
I probably screwed that up also:).

On the idler pulley--notice the front nut is now from the oem idler which supports the bearing from the front and has a more precise--maybe-- front bearing retainer. Now Cam's setup is good--nothing wrong with it--i just enjoy tinkering with things. Notice also that a have a locking nuts:) on the pulley bracket on both sides of the bracket to insure there is no lateral movement during hard acceleration. That may not be needed--i just like it!
I just had to take a pic of my engine bay--how my a/w intercooler return hose now circles around, the metal reinforcement on top of the a/w bottle, the metal mesh and insulation on the bottom of the airbox, i took the air pump off, fender well oem insulation off, steel inserts for the w/m nozzles, my checker flag oil filler cap, the gold foil on the maf pipe(just purdy--serves no real purpose) ( i took the gold foil off the intake--it was making it retain heat!), how the vdi vacuum asembley is now gone --and more.
the tires /wheels are my track ons nitto nt01's 275/35/18 on rpf1's that are 9.5 inches wide. in the back ground that is a custom lower air intake i have been playing with for a while--may actully put it own one dayi-never have nstalled that odessy batty on the self. sighh.
olddragger

Nice work Denny.

Hey, wait a minute...what happened to the dog? :eyetwitch

You are the greatest Pat---really appreciate it!
Did the ones of my gauges come through?
I probably screwed that up also:).

On the idler pulley--notice the front nut is now from the oem idler which supports the bearing from the front and has a more precise--maybe-- front bearing retainer. Now Cam's setup is good--nothing wrong with it--i just enjoy tinkering with things. Notice also that a have a locking nuts:) on the pulley bracket on both sides of the bracket to insure there is no lateral movement during hard acceleration. That may not be needed--i just like it!
I just had to take a pic of my engine bay--how my a/w intercooler return hose now circles around, the metal reinforcement on top of the a/w bottle, the metal mesh and insulation on the bottom of the airbox, i took the air pump off, fender well oem insulation off, steel inserts for the w/m nozzles, my checker flag oil filler cap, the gold foil on the maf pipe(just purdy--serves no real purpose) ( i took the gold foil off the intake--it was making it retain heat!), how the vdi vacuum asembley is now gone --and more.
the tires /wheels are my track ons nitto nt01's 275/35/18 on rpf1's that are 9.5 inches wide. in the back ground that is a custom lower air intake i have been playing with for a while--may actully put it own one dayi-never have nstalled that odessy batty on the self. sighh.
olddragger

i got the gauge pic....did you want me to post that?

More bling-bling for under the hood and a new set of rubber (Toyo Proxes R1R) :eyetwitch

Wow Juan did you make that engine damper?
If so, have you noticed any benefits?
Also could you be propositioned to make another???

Wow Juan did you make that engine damper?
If so, have you noticed any benefits?
Also could you be propositioned to make another???

Negative ghost rider. It is an Ingalls Damper and got it on sale for $125 including free shipping. I’m going to wait until I logged 250 miles on my new set of R1R before I go into “drive it like you stole it” mode to check if I notice a difference. My transmission and differential have BeatRush braces but now so the engine. It is an adjustable damper and not just a piece of steel rod. :eyetwitch

Juan. What is the black box behind your battery?

grounding kit with a voltage stabilizer? Buddy club? Looks sweet man
OD.

grounding kit with a voltage stabilizer? Buddy club? Looks sweet man
OD.

Ding-Ding! :eyetwitch

Juan and all, what is your thoughts on a damper that is mounted on the supercharger and not the engine.
OD

Juan and all, what is your thoughts on a damper that is mounted on the supercharger and not the engine.
OD

Why? The SC is bolted to the engine.

Or are you talking about a SC belt tensioner. That will be sweet in order to release tension on all bearings. :eyetwitch

Or are you talking about a SC belt tensioner. That will be sweet in order to release tension on all bearings.

You mean like one of these?

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127958&stc=1&d=1224613911

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127957&stc=1&d=1224613911

Cheers,
Hymee.

You mean like one of these?


Cheers,
Hymee.

Exactly

Someone produce one for the Pettit SC setup and I’ll buy it.

BTW…nice setup but your brake master cylinder is on the wrong side of the engine bay. :eyetwitch

You mean like one of these?

Cheers,
Hymee.

I was just looking at your pictures, never noticed before but your SC is mounted on its side, correct? Discharge heading in the direction of the ABS, except you have a provision for a tube for a discharge that will go straight out towards the FMIC, just as you've got the intake manifold inlet over the alternator. Pretty creative packaging.

I also noticed in the second picture that you tensioned down on the AC belt, but still with the factory ribbed tensioner pulley.

I was just looking at your pictures, never noticed before but your SC is mounted on its side, correct? Discharge heading in the direction of the ABS, except you have a provision for a tube for a discharge that will go straight out towards the FMIC, just as you've got the intake manifold inlet over the alternator. Pretty creative packaging.

I also noticed in the second picture that you tensioned down on the AC belt, but still with the factory ribbed tensioner pulley.

I suppose we should really talk specifics about my setup on it's own thread, but that ribbed pulley isn't ribbed any more, and that photo doesn't show the boost pipes and was taken before it was even running.

You need to get creative when you have certain goals you are trying to achieve, including having it all fit under the stock engine cover. Goal achieved. I just need to post some more pics.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Yeh, we tryed using a simuler version with the smaller blower setup but it wasnt as quality as that one, ours starting falling appart and such, after the 3rd one we decided against it in the end. That one like I say looks better in quality, im intrested in how long its going to last??? Slick settup Hymee, congrats on the completion. What did you end up going with for I/C style??

i do like the fact we can remove the sc belt and still run the engine--but that is a slick set up.
i dont think i want a cog system--too much noise.
OD

I will be testing with 80% of VP M5.
Will let you know later this week. :eyetwitch

only a bombman would do that:)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4l642TnA2c
would you like to have the automatic idler pully tensioner seen here?
OD

only a bombman would do that:)
OD

Yeah, but where is the Nitromethane?
:FIREdevil

After due consideartation and research, I ordered one of these to heop improve cooling and heat dissipation from the engine bay, I ordered one of these:

http://www.seiboncarbon.com/pdut_detail_pic.asp?ItemID=773

Should be here mid November; the louvers are functional and provide venturi ventilation at speed as well as probably some increased downforce. Seemed like easiest and most reliable way to improve airflow in the engine bay without chopping the nonocoque body or adding a lot of extra heat exchangers. Hopefully this hood with the Snow Kit will be all I need, but it's a nice looking hood; maintains a lot of styling elements of the stock hood but the addition of functional louvers.

What was the cost?

What was the cost?

I got it from an eBay vendor Octane Motors, $640 with free shipping, along with $30 for a hood pin set (even though Seibon uses the stock latch, they recommend a hood pin set becaus the hood is so light. Total; $670 shipped.

I just couldn't figure out an easy way to get better airflow through the engine compartment; even though I like the clean look of the stock hood, this particular model seemed like a reasonable compromise. In addition to the blower, I'll have the Snow meth kit (I'll only be using one size 100 jet post-MAF), some rerouted intercooler hoses, a PLX wideband with highflow cat, and sensors on pre/post-charge temps, oil temp/pressure, water temp, I/C temp, and boost.

Wes

Seibon TS = sexy! (it's a replica of the Varis, nice choice)
Hood pins? The CF isn't much lighter then the OEM aluminum hood, I doubt you'll need it.

That should help get some airflow in there, grats

I just installed this hood on my car and it is actually a little heavier than stock.

you know that is a great hood.
the actual heat underthe hood is ok as long as you have momentum--its the city driving and the turn it off then crank her up again a few minutes later is what gets us--that hood sure will help with that. looks god to--let us know how it fits.
OD

Just logged 150 miles since my new Toyo R1R and the Ingalls engine torque damper. I didn’t push the car that hard until after 100 miles on the new rubber. I noticed that I did not have any trouble fast shifting like I did before. Keep in mind that I do have an AF short shifter and BeatRush transmission and differential brace. However, I did noticed solid gear changes. No comments on the VP Racing M5 80% methanol injection because there is a short on the solenoid positive wire thus there was no methanol injection what so ever until fix.

Also, I’m not sure if the drop in ambient temperature (about 10 less degrees since summer) but ever since I’m adding a little bit of (real) lead to the fuel the car feels a whole lot stronger. :eyetwitch

Nice I have the AFE SS just ordered the BR Tranny brace, and will get the Ingalls damper soon this is good news......

the actual heat underthe hood is ok as long as you have momentum--its the city driving and the turn it off then crank her up again a few minutes later is what gets us--
OD

Amen to that. On the airfield Auto X day I did recently which was a lot of sitting about, then full on thrash runs, my temps went crazy as there was no constant airflow. Normal driving, (even on a race track...!) really doesnt give me any temp issues at all.

The 8 gets so much of its cooling via the front oil coolers, (and of course its normal rad) that sitting about motionless renders these useless.

Yep. I've found the best thing to do is just shut it off if you know you'll be stationary for a while. Then turn the ignition on so your aftercooler pump and fans are running. This tends to drop the temps more quickly while keeping the intake from being heat soaked less than just shutting off with the hood down.

You mean like one of these?

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127958&stc=1&d=1224613911

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127957&stc=1&d=1224613911

Cheers,
Hymee.

That is really nice. If I were buying my 8 in 6 months instead of 5 years ago, I definately would have given this kit some consideration.

How about a pair of these for the oil coolers. They might help flowing a bit of air thru the oil coolers while at city/stop-and-go traffic. Some of the 3rd gen folks are using them. :eyetwitch

http://www.spalusa.com/

http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/tech_sheets/3009-3018.pdf

http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8373397

temps we are doing now we dont need them:)
Hymlee's setup looks sweet,but couple questions
1- can he run a front brace/mastercynlinder brace?
it looks like the throttle body is not hooked up?--how is he doing that?
what kind of intercooler does he have.
that plate on top looks like it would heat soak the intake more?
no spot for a pre blower w/m injector?
he leaves the coils as is?
still really nice--i really like the s/c belt arrangement--but one question --is there any belt slippage? If the belt torque increased will that hurt the already stressed bearing in the alternator?
I ask too many dang ? dont I.
Olddragger

What I see are two belt tensioners , which should prevent any slippage, this pick is an old pic denny the engine wasnt even running at the time , of the pic, agree though that face plate looks like it would be a big heatsoak...

Juan- I kinda agree with denny on this in the 7 thread hes running a 20B and probably needs them for the turbo,,,,

There is only one tensioner, that cast aluminium looking thing to the left. The "other" one you refer to is just a plain idler, and is there to give maximum wrap around the layshaft front pulley (blower drive). The more wrap, the less tension is needed to prevent slippage. I have not seen any evidence of slip to date.

As to the the issue of the loads on the front main bearing, I don't believe that this setup imposes a great deal more load, for two reasons - firstly the spring loaded tensioner is not giving considerably more tension (if any) than a properly tensioned "fixed" system such as stock. Secondly, I'm running off the standard main engine pulley, not an additional pulley swinging even a greater bending moment out the front. So there shouldn't be any greater load on the front bearing other than the additional effort to turn the blower anyway.

Heatsoak? It wasn't designed as a heatsink, but if it is functioning like one then that is a bonus I guess. It only needs to be 1/3 the size (front to back) as it is just the plenum cover. But we thought it would look good as "full size" cover with some artwork on it :) In practical terms, I spent 3 out of 4 sessions at the last track day running around with the standard engine cover on, just to test for issues - or prove a point. Nothing to report.

In those pics the throttle body and MAF are not sealed together, but in the current running setup it is. I have one hole in the MAF tube downstream of the sensor for the engine breathers. I don't see any reason why a water/meth injector couldn't go there as well. Why not spray one into the boost pipe leading into the plenum?

Cheers,
Hymlee.

Oh - and as to the question of the strut brace, it isn't shown in that picture, but it all fits in with the standard strut brace installed - if that is any help to answer the question.

Cheers,
Hymlee. (where did that come from hehehe)

Thanks for the info Hymee, Ive rarely gone to your thread in the last couple years but once this is out I think I will,,, do you have any ETA on the release date yet...
Your right that 'cover' does look good..... nice clean package....

ahhaha lol --- Hymlee could be funny though, alsmost like heimlich maneuver...
you could say you performed the hymlee maneuver for the 8 'forcing it to breath faster'

Yeah, I'll save any more discussion on my kit for another thread. I didn't really mean to hijack this one, but I did get asked some questions. I hope you guys don't mind. Cam and I get on fine anyway. I've even shot the breeze (?) with him once or twice from all the way over here.

Cheers,
Hymee.

I was kicking around in the garage and stumbled onto this, almost forgot about it. Didnt get it finished because I started at Pettit with the SCs, might get around to finishing it one of these days. Thought you guys might get a kick out of it.

I was kicking around in the garage and stumbled onto this, almost forgot about it. Didnt get it finished because I started at Pettit with the SCs, might get around to finishing it one of these days. Thought you guys might get a kick out of it.

Great picture Moon. Next time could you please make it a bit smaller. Between you and Denny my eye sight is taking a dump and the eye doctor is about to eat lobster for dinner (for a week). :eyetwitch

well at least I am not alone anymore:)
Hymlee--dont worry about hyjack man--we are all here to learn. no mine is better than yours here for me.
since in America we have the steering wheel on the correct side:) would that belt tensioner still fit or does it really make a difference? Probably not.
What type bypass valve are you using?
How is your idle and how did you handle that?Now talk about the intercooler:)
thanks man
olddragger

yeah man dont worry about I think its safe to say theres no grudge between Petit folks and Hymee Enhanced folks....

Hey since I am fixing to run the Pettit MAF housing (assuming it works right).... can I be part of the club????

I have an exhaust driven centrifigal supercharger.......:lol:

Hey since I am fixing to run the Pettit MAF housing (assuming it works right).... can I be part of the club????

I have an exhaust driven centrifigal supercharger.......:lol:

Only if you post tiny pictures. :eyetwitch

Big pictures are more fun though:

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc7/bastage_2005/DSC_0023.jpg

well at least i went from NO PIC--to tiny pics:uhh:
I got a set of denso plugs--one step colder for an insane price--should i run them on the track?
OD

Hey since I am fixing to run the Pettit MAF housing (assuming it works right).... can I be part of the club????

I have an exhaust driven centrifigal supercharger.......:lol:

its all good kane!!!
provided you come to virginny!!!

No pressure then huh.... I can only go where the Army sends me....

nope..no pressure!!..

i'll make a few calls....

:rollingla

PS...cant blame a girl for tryin... ;)

Hey since I am fixing to run the Pettit MAF housing (assuming it works right).... can I be part of the club????

I have an exhaust driven centrifigal supercharger.......:lol:

Most of the tricks for one type of FI work for all types.
Except boost controllers.
:evil_laug

Check this out.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=2702345&posted=1#post2702345

cant wait til you get that thing going:)

temp this morning in middle Ga was 36F--car never got over 140F in a 6 mile stop and go drive. I went to a 10w/40 oil and I am ok with a 140. I do let her warm a little longer on as cold of a morning as this was.
If it goes anylower than a 140 then i may have to block some radiator off.
OD

cant wait til you get that thing going:)

temp this morning in middle Ga was 36F--car never got over 140F in a 6 mile stop and go drive. I went to a 10w/40 oil and I am ok with a 140. I do let her warm a little longer on as cold of a morning as this was.
If it goes anylower than a 140 then i may have to block some radiator off.
OD

Is 140 even out of cold start?

yep--i let it warm up in the driveway for a few minutes to 160 before i started driving.
down to 140F and no higher. oil or coolant. i may have too much flow through the thermostat, but 1st since it is going to be cold in the a.m, expected to get to 34F, i am covering the secondary radiator.
olddragger

car never got over 140F OD

Wow!

That's colder than the average McDonalds~Burger King coffee.

Awesome :eyetwitch

covered the secondary radiator this a.m.
ambiet temp 34F
coolant and oil at 150F--never higher--back to 140F during substained hwy driving. back to 150F during city stop and go redlights kind of thing.
The cover I used was not totally non porus--very restrictive but not totally.
Guess I will be cutting a piece of plexaglass tonight>
will be in the 40's tomorow morning.
The car sure likes the cool temps!
olddragger

Woke up at 3 am this morning with another brilliant but totally unworkable idea to add extra cooling. I'd been reading about radiant heating for homes where tubing is embedded into the the concrete floors and heated water pumped through it to heat the floors. I though "wow, you could route this stuff under the hood, beneath fiber heat shielding and the hood would then become a large passive radiator.

Then, I woke up fully and realized that as the sun beat down on the hood, it could actually heat the water in the radiant tubes, especially on dark colored cars. Especially in Florida, Nevada, California, and the like.

Crap. Back to sleep.

well--guess what--i mounted my secondary radiator to the front bumper support with metal mounts(aluminum) and the big ole bumper support also acts as a heat sink!!
OD

Hmm that was almost like the dream I had about liquid Nitrogen filed cooling jackets almost like a turbo jacket but wrapped around the UIM post after cooler

Hmm that was almost like the dream I had about liquid Nitrogen filed cooling jackets almost like a turbo jacket but wrapped around the UIM post after cooler
If we could figure out where to put the tanks, pumps and compressor it might be good here in the summer :scratchhe and then again all that weight :uhh:.

well--- i have too much cooling capacity. I didnt think i would ever be able to say that!
I completly blocked the secondary radiator, the ambient this morning was 39F.
car never got over 150F coolant (or oil). Yesterday going home in the evening ambiet was 62F car never got over 150F then either. would still get to 140 if on the interstate at 62F ambient.
So --conculsions are--
1- the 180F thermostat has been drilled to much allowing to much flow through it below its rating.
2- the oem thermostat and its oem bypass function may be causing higher temps itself, by design, and the oem radiator alone with a thermostat modification may be enough to control temps. The secondary radiator may end up not being needed:Eyecrazy:
plan--get another Mr Gasket thermostat, do less drilling to decrease water flow before warm up, take all blocking off the seconadry rad, and see what happens.
140F is too cool for street use---ok for the track--but not a DD.
OD

ok i have gotten a little preplexed here.
Last night I replaced the mr gasket thermostat with another 180F Mr gasket thermostat. this time i only drilled one small hole in it instead of 3, and was able to position it so i did not have to notch the bottom of the barrel.
This did not help--engine still too cool at 130-140 F on a 38F ambient. During ambient of 62-65 temps 140-150---still too cool.
One hole in the thermostat is only giving a small flow, very small flow so I dont see how that would by itself cause these cool of temps.
So maybe I am overradiated. Therefore today i will bypass the secondary radiator (easy to do--maybe takes 5 mins) and see what happens.
May end up with a summer setting and a different winter setting!
Damn car:)
OD

Yeh, the heater core lines flow all the time so now the coolers are over efficiant. Well, more proof it works, better then we first thought, who woulda thought. Guess its a standerd for any temps above 90. Yes that goes for NA also.

well that was what i was also thinking. its simple to just hook the hoses back together for the winter. that is what i am going to try 1st.
i do need to watch for hotspots forming since the bypass is plugged.
i wonder if it would be better to replace the 180 thermostat with the oem one and open the bypass back up and add the restrictor back to the heater hose. then keep the second rad functioning? Ah hell thats too much work--just mate the hoses back togerther!
OD

Just get another housing and put the OEM one back in for the winter

Easy, T off to the heater core and add valves to the front coolers to shut them off in parllel. That way when its hot out you just open 1 valve and shut the other. Just a thought unless you want to drain your system next summer again. Make sure you use hi-flow valves.

yep--looking at 3 way valves right now(still want my heater to work)--great minds think alike:)
OD

I can't believe you are running a second rad. uncontrolled by the thermostat ......

I think you would be better to have the stock thermostat and have the second rad going through it .

Hey Ya'll:
How do I register my info? How do I add pictures to the bottom of a message? My pictures are on Kodak Photo share. I have an 07 w/ Pettit SC 6sp auto.

Hey Ya'll:
How do I register my info? How do I add pictures to the bottom of a message? My pictures are on Kodak Photo share. I have an 07 w/ Pettit SC 6sp auto.

i use image shack to host my photos....

http://www.imageshack.us/

let me know if you need some instruction

PM Phil's 8 with your name and other demographic info and he will put you on the map

hey Brettus --it worked well until the temps got below 60! remember i installed a custom 180F therm and closed the bypass passage with this install.
remember your heater is not regulated by the thermostat either:)
feeding in a series with the oem radiator is an option but would require substantial reducers that I thought may restrict the primary flow too much.
So I went with my 1st thought and it worked ok--until the cool temps.
Now just a simple 3 way valve fixs the "too cool" problemand warm up is good.
OD

Hey Ya'll:
How do I register my info? How do I add pictures to the bottom of a message? My pictures are on Kodak Photo share. I have an 07 w/ Pettit SC 6sp auto.


By the way:
Welcome to the FI club....

second that--let us know if we can help ya anyway--and dont ask me for advice on pics--my rep is legendary
OD

Listen guys (and Shinka), get your docs to run a test to see if you show antibodies to the SC Virus; I just ordered a blower for my Nissan Xterra from Stillen. Not sure if there is a vaccine or whether you'd want one, but you can never be too careful. Untill you're certain, be sure to practice safe induction. Don't want any unintentional blower-transmitted diseases.

Hmm that was almost like the dream I had about liquid Nitrogen filed cooling jackets almost like a turbo jacket but wrapped around the UIM post after cooler

Funny you should mention that, saw some driver running CO2 fire extinquishers with solenoid activated jets on his I/Cs. Crazy.

Listen guys (and Shinka), get your docs to run a test to see if you show antibodies to the SC Virus; I just ordered a blower for my Nissan Xterra from Stillen. Not sure if there is a vaccine or whether you'd want one, but you can never be too careful. Untill you're certain, be sure to practice safe induction. Don't want any unintentional blower-transmitted diseases.

i am using a trojan-enz (reservoir tip) just to make sure!!!


:rollingla :rollingla :rollingla


PS...shhhhhh!!! i am already contemplating the TRD blower for my FJ...that will prolly be a spring project....

Yeh, I might just have to catch that one, my SUV is about to be my 2nd form of transportation so that might be an option, your lucky your SUVs have kits made for them, the one for mine was discontinued so id have to build one from scratch. I was looking at your directions Wess, I think I can go the same route, remove the upper intake and throw the IC in between then the blower with huge bird catchers sticking out on my VX hood would look sick.

Hey Ya'll:
How do I register my info? How do I add pictures to the bottom of a message? My pictures are on Kodak Photo share. I have an 07 w/ Pettit SC 6sp auto.

ahh. your the guy that won that green rx8 in that contest right? congratulations with the win and welcome to the forum. to post pictures hit the "go advanced" tab below the area where you type your message, it will bring you to a differnt page where you have more options. then you want to go to the kodak site and copy the link to the picture, then come back to the message page and click the small icon with the picture of the mountain with yellow sky if you put your clicker on it, it should say insert image, click it and paste your link in the box. you can preveiw your post as well to make sure it worked.

f/u on the "overcooling"
today--it was 50F this a.m. I have complety bypassed the secondary radiator. No coolant is going there.
Temps--stop and go -----------150F basically.
On an open part of the road approx 2 miles--speeds 55mph --temp fell to 145F
city stop and go 160-170, suburben stop and go--155-160.
Ok --summation--the 180F therm and the bypass plug is working pretty dogone good.
My thermostat modification now consist only of 1 drilled hole (3/16th)--no slots in it--- no other holes. So with just that little flow on the open road--i am still cool. So I am thinking that the bypass in our car is more active than we 1st thought in overall regulating higher temps. it is not just for warm up.
I am now thinking to revert back to the oem thermostat housing and thermostat with the bypass channel in the oem config of course and reattaching the flow into the secondary radiator. Then see what happens.
Maybe our bypass channel is staying partially open longer than it should (thermostat is not sealing it soon or well enough?) and causing reduced flow through the radiator leading to higher than expected temps when the coolant system is being needed at its capacity?
OD

i am using a trojan-enz (reservoir tip) just to make sure!!!


:rollingla :rollingla :rollingla


PS...shhhhhh!!! i am already contemplating the TRD blower for my FJ...that will prolly be a spring project....


Not to push you completely over the edge, but here's the Stillen dyno charts- check out the torque curve. About 8 lbs boost; the TRD should be similar:

Horsepower: http://www.stillen.com/product_files/407400~dyno.1.HP.jpg

Torque: http://www.stillen.com/product_files/407400~dyno.1.TQ.jpg


Wild. I got mine on sale for 4K with free shipping; now the price is showing 6K.
Right time, right place for a change.

Hey Ya'll:
How do I register my info? How do I add pictures to the bottom of a message? My pictures are on Kodak Photo share. I have an 07 w/ Pettit SC 6sp auto.
1. Owners Name(s) & Handle:
2. State:
3. AT/MT
4. Installed By:
Ether post this information or PM me and I will register you and get your name on the list and the map.

ok dont know if anyone is really following my coolant exploration--but its a good personnel record so today
ambient 58F 6 mile drive as usual--temps 160F if driven in 5th gear and keep rpms up to 3K(which may be a good thing to do)--no spirited driving.
plan to keep as is until after this w/e. this w/e i will be on the track ambients in the 70"s is the forcast.
1- will run one day with mod thermostat (180degree) one session with secondary cooler, one without--will try yo do this where the ambient does change that much.
2- the next day(forcast in the 70's again) i will reinstall the oem thermostat and do the same.
we will see what happens.
some thoughts--
1- our engine absorbs more exhaust heat than previous rotary's did because of the side exhaust port. That design change allowed more coolant jackets to be around the exhaust ports-- accuate temp measurement has to be in the proper location and I am not sure where i am measuring from is good enough. The heater hose outlet is BEFORE the exhaust ports. But, for combustion chamber area temps you dont really have to monitor after the exhaust ports---right?
The oem sensor is after the radiator ---correct?
Do we need to monitor at the hot radiator hose?
anyway I suspect that i will end up with a winter setting and a summer setting .
i suspect i will be going back to the oem thermostat and bypass passage and in the winter i will stop the flow to the secondary radiator and when ambiets get over ---say 80F--i will reopen the secondary radiator. Too bad I have to wait on seasons to explore all of this:)
you could even rig an open/shut switch inside the passenger compartment if you wanted.
learning a lot--an will have a way of consistantly and effectivly keeping this engine in the proper heat range.
Whew.
OD

Ok, here goes nuthin.
1. Owners name: Bill Lynch (BLYNCH)
2. State: Alabama
3. 2007 6sp AT
4.Installed by Cam at Pettit.

^----intense mods! why an AT? just curious

Believe it or not, (I still don"t) I won this car in its present condition! I couldn't understand the choice of AT either, since I always believed any performance car HAD to be manual. It took almost 6 months after winning before I actually got it, so I spent a lot of time lurking around here trying to figure out what exactly I was getting into. I also had no clue about rotaries, and after reading 1000's of posts, I still don't. (Well, maybe a little) It didn't take me long to to flat fall in love w/ the 6sp auto. This ain't my daddy's slushbox. The 6 port w/ sc and auto work so good together its just amazing. Also if it was a manual, I probably would have to sell it beacause my wife can't drive stick. She has no trouble at all with this, so whoo hoo, i'm keepin it. My favorite thing to do is pull into the "senior citizens" parking space at FoodWorld and poppin the Lambos. (I get AARP mail, so I figure I qualify)

hahaha thats great congrats with the win... if you keep lurking on the forum you will learn alot about these cars..i went from knowing nothing to owning 3 rx7's and now an rx8.. all in about 3 years time. the forums were always the best way to learn new things or troubleshoot issues with these cars. youve got it made considering cam had a large part in building the car im sure you can call him anytime for suport or help with repairs..your going to love that car more and more as the days past.nothing wrong with having an automatic as long as you have some power they can be very fun..you should go to some local shows in that thing and show up some of those punk teenagers haha

Ok, here goes nuthin.
1. Owners name: Bill Lynch (BLYNCH)
2. State: Alabama
3. 2007 6sp AT
4.Installed by Cam at Pettit.

Hey Bill,

I saw your car at Pettit, before you!
Nice, the carbon fiber is bitchin....
:)

Moon is my neck of the woods for the next two weeks,,,,,
Teardown, paint, and prep is tomorrow, install is Friday Im so freakin excited!!!

w00t for forced induction Greg!!!

i spoke to him last nite...he was doin a stay over in SC....

please update us with install pics...

thx

Believe it or not, (I still don"t) I won this car in its present condition! I couldn't understand the choice of AT either, since I always believed any performance car HAD to be manual. It took almost 6 months after winning before I actually got it, so I spent a lot of time lurking around here trying to figure out what exactly I was getting into. I also had no clue about rotaries, and after reading 1000's of posts, I still don't. (Well, maybe a little) It didn't take me long to to flat fall in love w/ the 6sp auto. This ain't my daddy's slushbox. The 6 port w/ sc and auto work so good together its just amazing. Also if it was a manual, I probably would have to sell it beacause my wife can't drive stick. She has no trouble at all with this, so whoo hoo, i'm keepin it. My favorite thing to do is pull into the "senior citizens" parking space at FoodWorld and poppin the Lambos. (I get AARP mail, so I figure I qualify)

where'd you win it? from the post above, from petit?

where'd you win it? from the post above, from petit?

I can answer this:
He won the Ultimate Ride (http://www.bp.com/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9009417&contentId=7036219) contest.

Day 1 teardown and wire harness,,, 3hrs ,
done... pics were taken obviously before the harness was done...

you must be shittin yourself Greg!!!

:) :) :) :)

yeah last night I hardly got sleep and tonite is probably going to be the same...

Day 1 teardown and wire harness,,, 3hrs ,
done... pics were taken obviously before the harness was done...

Is that the Fort Meade hobby shop?

Also, I recommend installing a heat shield between the blower and the engine. It will help during the summer months to keep the engine heat away from it. :eyetwitch

Nope, Aberdeen Proving Grounds hobby shop....
Yup got the heat shield from Cam so we're good to go ,,, I n the summer Im also gonna do Moons Heat exchanger undertray setup as well...

Im pretty dissapointed that Cam has had my NA data loggs since Sept 17th and they still havent built a flash for my car,,,now everyone has to scramble around at the last minute,,,, Moon is picking me up at noon to go to the shop, so I wont have internet access to do the flash after that,,, so Iguess I get a last minute flash,,, pretty dissapointing considering how much I payed for all this...

damn man I wish I was still down there, would love to help out!

Best of luck with your install!

sometime I will make it down there again to see the finished product!

yeah Brent assembly will be this afternoon,,, as far as management -still waiting...
so I gues I can drive around with no boost til I get it...
You should come down and hang out some time...

wait im confused? dosent the flash come with the kit?

wait im confused? dosent the flash come with the kit?
Unless pricing has changed lately, you have the option of no flash or a flash. It was offered that way so that you could use an Cobb AP or a piggyback.

Well Im back home now waiting for my fucking flash...
Moon is at the shop, pulling the bumper off for ithe IC install,,,,
Im definately charging Cam for the shop time considering that I will probably have to leave at the shop again...
Moon and I are pretty pissed off, I sent 5 datalogs to Cam Jr. two months ago and confirmed that he got them, over the phone, so when I talked to Sr. he claims their internet has been down for the last three weeks, why that applies to me I dont know...
Moon has doen an excellent job on the mechanical side, no fault there...
But I think its a little rediculous to leave a half days worth of work sit for two months and do it on the last day , I know for a fact that they're not busy,,,,

Unless pricing has changed lately, you have the option of no flash or a flash. It was offered that way so that you could use an Cobb AP or a piggyback.

yeah i know, so if hes using the stock ecu why didnt he get the flash with the kit?

Hey Rotr8, be patient, when you hear that sick "whine", it'll all be worth it.

Hey Shinka and 13b, thanks for the help getting my stuff up. In the coming years I may be able to figure out how to get more than 1 picture to fit in and list the mods. If OD can do it, there may be hope for me yet.

Hey Rote, you drove this car before me? You bastard! Kiddin, hope ya heard the "beep".

yeah i know, so if hes using the stock ecu why didnt he get the flash with the kit?
I do not know if he purchased that option. If he did and did not get it with the kit, then there is a problem but easily solved if Moon has the flash tools with him.

Ive got everything, the Dude I assume you guys are talking about, why would I have bought serious hardware without management....
Anyway Cam was supposed to build a custom flash based off my logs.... which I sent two months ago and then again last month...
Anyway Moon and I reached a stopping point and will continue tomorrow,
So I finally got the flash from Dian so Im good to go...
At this point its water under the bridge, but I was pretty fired up earlier today...

oh i see, i didnt realize you were having a custom flash done

congrats Greg!!....i know you were a little pissed...but...isnt it nice to have a custom flash??

i dont think everyone else does.... ;)

OK so at 8pm last night we got her up and running, after about a half hour of it flooding and not turning, we had to swith the order of the plugwires, and whalla she started right up...
We diceded to call it quits and button it all up this mourning,,,
Moon swears he wired the coil connectors correctly but now he suspects he didnt... He is asking you guys if anyone would help by posting a wiring diagram so he can double check everything ,,,, hes picking me up at 8 but the shop has internet access so we can check the forum,,,
Thanks all...
Ohhh and there are several hurdles we had to get over I'll let Moon get into it if he chooses so I dont sound like Im whining,,,,
Hopefully we'll have her on the road in an hour or two...

He is asking you guys if anyone would help by posting a wiring diagram so he can double check everything

Enjoy :eyetwitch

thanks Juan,,,
Well my 8 just got a blow job and it felt good......

I do have to thank Moon a ton fro everything hes done, he had some big hurdles to jump no thanks to the lack of support from Pettit , but in the end everything is running good,,,, Its so smooooooooooooooth !!!

Anyway Im gonna be logging tomorrow to get Dian some new maps so he can give an appropiate flash...

Thanks Pat for the ride in your 8 back in June that convinced me to get it...

it takes a little time to settle it down.you gonna like it man.
i ran the entire track today in Savannah in 5th gear--people couldnt believe it.
OD

congrats man now drive that bitch up here to lanc and gimmie a ride...lol

im glad everything worked out well....
kudos to you and Moon!!!

job well done...now go out and enjoy it....you deserve it!!

:)

congrats man now drive that bitch up here to lanc and gimmie a ride...lol

if you really want a ride...im a little more local!!!....
bout an hr away..

:)

sweet.. yeah id love a ride in one of these pettit cars, ive already started my install of suporting mods for the pettit kit ill be putting on early spring, id like to get an adicting taste of wats to come..lol. are you located sort of near exton mall? i make trips out there a few times a month.

sweet.. yeah id love a ride in one of these pettit cars, ive already started my install of suporting mods for the pettit kit ill be putting on early spring, id like to get an adicting taste of wats to come..lol. are you located sort of near exton mall? i make trips out there a few times a month.

im actually a hop-ski-and a jump from I95 15min south of the airport....
3min from 322E as it approaches 95

track temps never over 180 this w/e.
intake air temps at 105.
my set up now consist of the oem thermostat/housing, upgraded water pump, secondary rad up front and a 70/30 blend.
temps never below 165 in daily driving.
albeit was 75 with approx 50-60 humidity.
other cars (rx8) did get to 231F.
:):):):):):)

I now have to explore and troubleshoot fuel pump/fuel delivery issues.
OD

Well just got some info back from Dian, apparently he addvises against a more aggressive tune with the mileage I have on my car,,, I payed full price for the stage II CS, it would have been nice if I knew this before Cam took all my money,,, Im really starting to have grips against the way information was presented and pitched to me when I talked to Cam about the kit....
If there were going to be hold back on what Im getting versus everyone else then I would have like to known.....
Along with the piss poor support Moon recieved when trouble shooting the install it seems Pettit has some organizational issues that until now were pretty well masked to me...

Well just got some info back from Dian, apparently he addvises against a more aggressive tune with the mileage I have on my car,,, I payed full price for the stage II CS, it would have been nice if I knew this before Cam took all my money,,, Im really starting to have grips against the way information was presented and pitched to me when I talked to Cam about the kit....
If there were going to be hold back on what Im getting versus everyone else then I would have like to known.....
Along with the piss poor support Moon recieved when trouble shooting the install it seems Pettit has some organizational issues that until know were pretty well masked to me...

So Dian tuned yours down? By how much?

Also, what kind of mileage do you have?

Well just got some info back from Dian, apparently he advises against a more aggressive tune with the mileage I have on my car,,, I payed full price for the stage II CS, it would have been nice if I knew this before Cam took all my money,,, I'm really starting to have grips against the way information was presented and pitched to me when I talked to Cam about the kit....
If there were going to be hold back on what I'm getting versus everyone else then I would have like to known.....
Along with the piss poor support Moon received when trouble shooting the install it seems Pettit has some organizational issues that until know were pretty well masked to me...


Uh, you should be glad for the sane tune, a FI setup is not something to tweak to the edge.
Cam is only concerned that you don't break your new toy.:)
What amount of boost are you running? (5-8 PSI?)
Is your RX8 a daily drive?

These blowers are capable of making more boost than the stock fuel and coils can take.
Methanol injection can allow you to tune closer to the edge, just don't fall off.:icon_no2:

So Dian tuned yours down? By how much?

Also, what kind of mileage do you have?

-Yeah, not quite sure yet he said to do a couple third gear pulls on it and he'd have a pretty good idea where i was,,,,

- just hit 80,000 miles, and yeah its my DD so Im really happy for now but when I get my MR2 up and running Im gonna go back to Dian for more....

-and yes the Snow kit is a mod that will be going on this spring along with Moons undertray heat exchangers.... Since its already winter up here tonites drive home was 42degrees...

-I was just venting alittle sine none of this was brought up before I bought it in the discussions with Cam... thats all...

Ohh yeah by the way on tonites ride home ,,, dusted a 350Z on the highway he had that WTF? look on his face....:evil_laug :evil_laug :evil_laug

rotr8---maybe your car is having more fuel trims and they are trying to nail that down. there is some variation in trims at times. most are about the same.
once again it takes a little time and driving to settle it down. dont push it.
my car this w/e was pulling 303 g/sec airflow at 7.8K in 6th gear going down the straightaway:) (approx 135mph:)
OD

Or maybe he didn't like what he saw from the MAF and didn't want to push it too much until he saw more data. If you smoked a Z, sounds like you definitely have some good power. I had the same reaction on Sunday when I smoked a NO2ed Civic. He was also like "WTF."

What's your MAF peaking out at in 3rd gear? Post some efi dude logs.

Why is 3rd gear so important?

Rotr8, I installed the kit myself and was a little frustrated at first with the lack of instructions. This was over a year ago before they published the new installation manual. However, the kit(to my knowledge) was never advertised as an everyman installation.

Also, what kind of support would Moon need from Pettit besides parts. If parts were missing that would be frustrating. Other than that, Moon shouldn't have had any problems since he has installed several of these kits.

As to the tuning aspect, every car is slightly different, which is why you were given a "slightly" conservative tune. I know from experience that Dian is very easy to work with. Just do what he and Cam say and you will have your own personal map within a week or so.

Finally, welcome to the world of blowers. I hope you still love it a year from now. I know I do.

Yeah thanks morkus, Moon and I were more than capable of handling the install if it werent for someone going trough tthe boxes Moon packed the day before his departure. When he got up to the shop we were at an we started unpacking the boxes several things were missing including the correct length plug wires from Magnecore, we had to go out and buy the generic universal do-it-yourself kit and make our own. when Moon called Cam up to ask him about it Cam hung up on him and didn't bother calling back the entire four days we did the install. Alot of the small hardware was missing too including most of the hose clamps, which we also had to run out and buy all the time having to pay for shop time. That along with Cam making an escuse that the flash wasnt ready because thier email had been down for three weeks, when I sent my logs to Jr. and talked to him over the phone as he opened them up twom months prior to the install just put a sour tasted in ours mouths, having to scramble around at the last minute, ultimately cost me an extra day's worth of shop cost that could have easily been avoided.
Dian has been more than understanding and helpful and I can really appreciate his efforts to write the flash while I waited on the last day of install...

So thats pretty much it... Now thats all in the past, Im not quite so bitter, and the SC is great,,,
Thats being said Im really enjoying it and am not really in a rush to jump into more aggressive flashes yet , it just was never pitched to me that way when I asked Pettit about it, thats all.....

understand the fustration. Glad it has all worked out and you are enjoying your car. I did my own install in my backyard and I had a hell of a time trying to get the vacuum hoses right. But i did learn a lot in the process. The brotherhood was very supportive and if had not been for Juan I think i would have sold the damn thing:)(car that is)
ENjoy that torque and welcome to the brotherhood!
I think I am the only one with this kit that is tracking their car. Let me tell you--it makes a profound difference in every aspect.
OD

yeah the track season is all but over up here, but next year I plan on going to every HPDE and track event I can sign up for....

Got a quick question for yall..
Im thinking about switching the filter to one that has a 70mm outlet on the MAF side would anyone see a problem other than me having to build the appropriate reducer,,, this is what im thinking... as long as I can squeeze it under the hood....

make sure the reducer ends at least 4 inches before the maf and you might want a screen there- you'd have to try with and without to be sure