ok i want to boost my 8 but i dont wanna spend the money on a kit when i can buy some of the pieces individually and and then find some of the other parts else where for a lesser amout of money....

any suggestions that i should go with for such as turbo manifold, downpipe, e-manage or intercepor x any ideas for turbos..i like how a T70 sounds, but i need something to spool up quick...bov....if u have any suggestions just drop them here and i will consider and more than likely use yur idea.....

SUPERCHARGE IT.no need for spooling,lol....i would if i had the money to spend it on a F.I. project*
=/

naaa i like the turbo option better

Have you ever done somthing like this before? I have to say, from reading your first post I get the impression by the questions that you may be in over your head...but I'm positive with drive and motivation that it can be done.

Good luck getting a hold of a turbo manifold, btw. If you know how to weld, would be more effective to make one yourself.

SUPERCHARGE IT.no need for spooling,lol....i would if i had the money to spend it on a F.I. project*
=/

Or reverse it - Turbocharge it, so that you can get peak PSI without being tied down to rpm or parasitic drag on the engine.

PS: I can get 10 psi at 3k rpm range.

yeah turbo is funerer. It makes quterer noises too. :)

On a serious note, though.

Why do you want your turbo to spool up quickly? Quick spooling (smaller) turbos don't go well with our engines as they produce back pressure, hit, and they tend to choke and run out of breath on the 2/3 of the way, where all the fun is supposed to take place with our cars.

Before you get started, order Maximum Boost (http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606).
I should have done this before I started building my first system.
recently I did and got clued into a lot of things that I have not even suspected earlier.

Good luck

so yeah i just went and bought that book for future refrence....and no i have never done anything like this before but i am having alot of help so i am positive that it will work...

yeah turbo is funerer. It makes quterer noises too. :)



is this a word?


On a serious note, though.

Why do you want your turbo to spool up quickly? Quick spooling (smaller) turbos don't go well with our engines as they produce back pressure, hit, and they tend to choke and run out of breath on the 2/3 of the way, where all the fun is supposed to take place with our cars.

Before you get started, order Maximum Boost (http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606).
I should have done this before I started building my first system.
recently I did and got clued into a lot of things that I have not even suspected earlier.

Good luck

good call. that book is a really good place to start. good read.

After specing out a large number of turbos against the airflow of the Renesis motor I can tell you that there are a handful of "small" turbos that would fit very well to give quick spool (~3000-ish full spool) of up to ~12psi and hold that out to redline. Not gReddy small to where it chokes, dies and runs out of at ~7000 but medium framed Garrett units.

is this a word?


depends in what language... :dunno:

depends in what language... :dunno:

lets not play guessing games. What language does this word exist in? Google sure doesn't like that word.

so yeah i just went and bought that book for future refrence....and no i have never done anything like this before but i am having alot of help so i am positive that it will work...

Good luck. If you go ahead with it post up about the build. Reading/watching Rotorocks' thread about his build was one of the better reads on this forum, imo.

After specing out a large number of turbos against the airflow of the Renesis motor I can tell you that there are a handful of "small" turbos that would fit very well to give quick spool (~3000-ish full spool) of up to ~12psi and hold that out to redline. Not gReddy small to where it chokes, dies and runs out of at ~7000 but medium framed Garrett units.

GReddy sized the turbo correctly. It's supposed to run 6 psi, and it pretty much does that all the way to redline. We're just not doing what greddy intended :)

:rolleyes: Mac, are you really that much of a dork or just BSing? :dunno:
Oh and "BSing" is also not a word in the dictionary, but I bet you are getting the meaning of it.

Now about what was the word? "funerer" and "quterer"? Consider this words to be my personal gift to this wonderful language

:evil_laug


Sorry about taking it off topic.

Manifold.

I chopped my stock manifold flange off to make my manifold.

You'll need a thick wall cast stainless steel 90 degree pipe(schedule 10 if i recall)
a streight stainless pipe. the thick will will prevent it from cracking on you and provide some flexbiltiy.

Some 3" streight, 45 degree, 90 degree pipes to make your down pipe
02 sensor bong.

Welder and supplies
some heat wrap
etc...

ECU: intercepter x

Wastegate: tial
BOV Don't recall hmmmmm
turbo T70 .. Some lag but not bad at all. When it kicks you better hold on hhehe

then you have to tune it.

or just buy the Esmeril Racing kit .

:rolleyes: Mac, are you really that much of a dork or just BSing? :dunno:
Oh and "BSing" is also not a word in the dictionary, but I bet you are getting the meaning of it.

Now about what was the word? "funerer" and "quterer"? Consider this words to be my personal gift to this wonderful language

:evil_laug


Sorry about taking it off topic.

I was serious enough to not know what the hell you are talking about. I mean it doesn't really matter but I just can't figure out what you are trying to say.

Do you mean 'CUTErer' as in cute girl, cute flower, etc?

I was serious enough to not know what the hell you are talking about. I mean it doesn't really matter but I just can't figure out what you are trying to say.

Do you mean 'CUTErer' as in cute girl, cute flower, etc?

Oh my bad!
I made up a word and misspelled it at the same time. LOL
no wonder your programming went into an infinite loop and run out of virtual memory. :lol2:
Yes i meant it as in cute girl, cute flower, etc.

i think it i will be cheaper and more fun it i make my own and a very good experience and there is a rotary shop about a half hour away that will do the tune for me

Manifold.

I chopped my stock manifold flange off to make my manifold.

You'll need a thick wall cast stainless steel 90 degree pipe(schedule 10 if i recall)
a streight stainless pipe. the thick will will prevent it from cracking on you and provide some flexbiltiy.

Some 3" streight, 45 degree, 90 degree pipes to make your down pipe
02 sensor bong.

Welder and supplies
some heat wrap
etc...


You're right! He should put a bong in his manifold. If it doesn't make it faster at least it will make it more fun.

I agree with tdiddy........ and O and U are not that close together so no excuses ;)

After specing out a large number of turbos against the airflow of the Renesis motor I can tell you that there are a handful of "small" turbos that would fit very well to give quick spool (~3000-ish full spool) of up to ~12psi and hold that out to redline. Not gReddy small to where it chokes, dies and runs out of at ~7000 but medium framed Garrett units.

Oh have you? Let me guess. You came up with the GT2871R?:rolleyes:

BTW - When I bong my girl, I prefer her to be cuterer and then quieterer.

Oh have you? Let me guess. You came up with the GT2871R?:rolleyes:

If I wanted to run 6psi or cared nothing for compressor efficiency, than yes I'd agree. But then again, I'd be concerned about 260+ degree water temps and not being on my third engine.

But since you're the expert, maybe explain to everyone why you have cooling issues and blame it on Mazda by stating the engine wasn't ready for the public. Yet the whole time and many engines later, you still haven't done the basic rotary steps like not blocking the radiator with an intercooler. And in fact, if i remember correctly, you were going with a larger I/C? That should really aid your fledgling cooling system. But according to you, we shouldn't need a radiator anyway since this motor is basically air/oil cooled anyway.

You're right! He should put a bong in his manifold. If it doesn't make it faster at least it will make it more fun.


hahahahaha:lol2:

If I wanted to run 6psi or cared nothing for compressor efficiency, than yes I'd agree. But then again, I'd be concerned about 260+ degree water temps and not being on my third engine.

But since you're the expert, maybe explain to everyone why you have cooling issues and blame it on Mazda by stating the engine wasn't ready for the public. Yet the whole time and many engines later, you still haven't done the basic rotary steps like not blocking the radiator with an intercooler. And in fact, if i remember correctly, you were going with a larger I/C? That should really aid your fledgling cooling system. But according to you, we shouldn't need a radiator anyway since this motor is basically air/oil cooled anyway.

What the hell was THAT rant all about. PMS?
I'll ignore the second part (since it is irrelevant, not to mention inaccurate and confused) - you would do well to not put words into my mouth.

However, I will ask you if you know how to read a compressor map? If so, you would see that the GT2871R is good out to 450 HP on our motor and will support 40+ lbs of air.

:celebrate
:flamed: :balls: :ylsuper: :fight: :fart:

And the band played on as the mosh pit got rowdy. Now where is that popcorn smiley.
:hippie:


Mac11 what turbos did you end up finding. MM I that thought no matter the PSI the Greddy doesn't have enough flow to provide enough air past 7500 rpm? Isn't that why all the greddy kit tunes drop off after 7500?

Mac11 what turbos did you end up finding. MM I that thought no matter the PSI the Greddy doesn't have enough flow to provide enough air past 7500 rpm? Isn't that why all the greddy kit tunes drop off after 7500?

Well, first of all, the Garrett turbo I'm discussing above isn't the GReddy turbo.
However, no - the turbo included in the GReddy kit (a Mitsubishi TD06-18G) can flow about 30 lbs. of air comfortably, which is around 10 PSI on the REnesis.
However, the internal wastegate gets pretty swamped by then.

Here:

MFR@9000= (2.703*14.7*417*1.61)/(85+460)= 49 lb/min
MFR@6000=33 lb/min
MFR@5000=27 lb/min
MFR@4000=22 lb/min
MFR@3000=16 lb/min
MFR@2000=11 lb/min
MFR@1000= 5 lb/min

That is at 1.61 ATM Air Density. Or 1.75 ATM Boost approx: 13 PSI of Boost

Your Ve is awfully optimistic at 9k!

:lol:

Let a man dream dammit!!!!!!!

I was going to kick out the VE curve stuff out of my software, but too lazy right now.... besides if you get on ethat CAN do 50 lb/min of air.... your golden. :lol2:

Oh and spool up at 11 lb/min of air....

If so, you would see that the GT2871R is good out to 450 HP on our motor and will support 40+ lbs of air.

40lbs of air wont come close to supporting 450hp. You must be confusing your 'Piston Math' and your 'Rotary Math' again. Time to recalculate.

:celebrate
:flamed: :balls: :ylsuper: :fight: :fart:

And the band played on as the mosh pit got rowdy. Now where is that popcorn smiley.
:hippie:


Mac11 what turbos did you end up finding. MM I that thought no matter the PSI the Greddy doesn't have enough flow to provide enough air past 7500 rpm? Isn't that why all the greddy kit tunes drop off after 7500?

Depends on your HP goals and what PR you want to run at. The turbo MM is recommending would be pretty good up to about 6-8psi. That's what it was intended to do. After that you get out of its efficiency range and don't get much more than a small heater.

I think to keep efficiency higher and have ample flow the GT30 is a better move for higher boost(8+ psi), and you can get it internally or externally gated. Sure you can take a smaller turbo to the choke line, but this will be at the cost of efficiency and power. Take your pick, do you want faster spooling and less power, or on the other end a marginally smaller operating range but the ability to create more hp in the mid range and upper rpms.

So I'm on my second read of Maximum Boost by Corky Bell and I now actually understand halfway what the hell you guys are talking about. Pretty cool!

So I'm on my second read of Maximum Boost by Corky Bell and I now actually understand halfway what the hell you guys are talking about. Pretty cool!


Good job. When you are done pass the book on to someone else and pick up his book on supercharging.

Good job. When you are done pass the book on to someone else and pick up his book on supercharging.

Its mostly the same book. Most of the theory and math is copied completely.
You can almost feel Bell's disdain for superchargers in general as you read it.
Fairly comprehensive, though.

You can almost feel Bell's disdain for superchargers in general as you read it.
Fairly comprehensive, though.

You know I got that same feeling from the Maximum Boost book. I was just sitting here wondering if he was as pro-superchager in the supercharger book as he is pro-turbo in the turbo book.


Sorry this is not a book thread.

On Topic - It looks like the hardest part of building your own system is going to be the piping and the manifiold. I'm interested to see how you end up solving these two issues.

Its mostly the same book. Most of the theory and math is copied completely.
You can almost feel Bell's disdain for superchargers in general as you read it.
Fairly comprehensive, though.

Supercharged was pretty good, I thought. But the complexity of the system as compared to the turbo becomes even more apparent after comparing the two books to one another. The part about calculating power losses through the parasitic loss of the SC is pretty cool, and a bit demoralizing...

Here:

MFR@9000= (2.703*14.7*417*1.61)/(85+460)= 49 lb/min
MFR@6000=33 lb/min
MFR@5000=27 lb/min
MFR@4000=22 lb/min
MFR@3000=16 lb/min
MFR@2000=11 lb/min
MFR@1000= 5 lb/min

I had down in my calcs ~47lbs/min @ 12psi. I think I just ballparked VE at 85%...

Works for me, I was at 13 PSI...

My software is going to have a VE curve, so you will know what is ACTUALLY is at each load. But I don't want to kick it out right now.

Works for me, I was at 13 PSI...

My software is going to have a VE curve, so you will know what is ACTUALLY is at each load. But I don't want to kick it out right now.

Yeah, I've been watching that other thread fairly closely. Pretty cool stuff you've been working on...

Thanks RD. I am getting close, my timing stuff should be out of this world...

oh I see. Thanks for the gentle response. Please refer to the first part of my sig. XD

i am talking to hurley rotary right now to see if they have a rebuild kit for my engine and if they do then i am going to rebuild my motor before i boost it...thought it might be a good idea

i am talking to hurley rotary right now to see if they have a rebuild kit for my engine and if they do then i am going to rebuild my motor before i boost it...thought it might be a good idea

Why would you do that? At least get the compression checked first, and if it's strong I don't see the point.

^+1. Check compression first. Why rebuild a perfectly running engine with strong compression?

And, check out Mazdatrix for Renesis rebuild kits

One way to make a turbo manifold:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2604/article.html

wow that was actually alot of help...thanx!!

Did you see part 2?

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2605/article.html

So what PSI would a 2871 be good for versus a 3071 or 76?