Just changed my oil tonight, and this is by far one of the easiest cars to change oil on. As long as you have the right tools

Mobil1 Oil Filter M1-108 (search the miata boards, there's a bigger replacement for this one that should work well)

-or-

Fram xx6607 (not a fan of the frams, but it was the only one I could cross reference) The xx will be DG for "double guard", but the #'s remain the same

EDIT: The other oil filter p/n here: Except, I would ditch the stock filter in favor of a Mobil One M1-108 or M1-105 (big). Source is here: http://www.quithel.co.uk/zz_Power_gen.htm I have not tried it, but I'm going to give it a try on the next oil change.
EDIT: it's actually the M1-110 that is the big filter, just got it today!

Case of Castrol GTX 5w20 ( you see "high mileage" on the box, but it's just an advertisement, it's the regular GTX stuff)

Oil Filter "F" type cap wrench

Ratchet

12" extension

3/8" flex joint

19mm socket (oil pan)

Jack

Oil pan.

Start with the basic tools here

Let your engine cool for a bit. Mostly to let the oil drain out of the oil filter.

Setup the cap wrench like this, and the filter will come right off.

Oil filters side by side

Jack up the right side of the car.

Get the oil pan under the drain plug.

Use a 19mm socket.

Remove the plug and let drain.

Be careful of the crush washer, mine went into the oil pan, and i had to hunt for it later.

pic of the socket and drain plug.

Lower the car to drain it properly. Then once it's all done, put the plug back in. (might have to jack the car up again).


Lower it and then let's get the new filter on.

Here's the new Mobil1 filter on.

Add your 3.7 Qts of oil. On mine, it was just a mil away from the dipstick top line.

Start the car for a while, and then 2x check for leaks and proper oil level.

It's really that simple.

I spilled just a litte from the oil filter, but I let the car sit for about 20 mins while I was preparing everything in the garage. very very little oil came out of the filter.

Hope this helps you all!

Might want to add:

Before putting the new filter on, get a little engine oil on your finger and smear it on the rubber seal on the new filter. This prevents the rubber seal from hanging up on the metal surface and possibly creating a bad seal.

Excellent photos BTW.

Cheers,
Simon.

Thanks for the props!

You can't fill the oil filter before putting it on the car, so I just poured a little bit in to get the filter wet. Definately smear some on the gasket!

Also don't over tighten the filter! 3/4's of a turn after it makes contact!!!!!! You can do it by hand, but the filter wrench makes it so much easier!

Ahhhhh, nothing like fresh oil in the engine!

OK, I give. Why not jack up the left side, since the drain plug is on the right side? You get more oil to drain that way.

Also, I've quit using jacks - I just drive my car up along the front of my driveway and onto the sidewalk so only the left front tire is elevated from the street. Save a lot of hassle!

I jacked up the right side so it was easier to get to the drain plug.

When it was draining, I just lowered the car so it would all come out of the pan.

You could jack the right up if you want that extra bit of oil to come out ;) ;)

I'm sure that if you are small or have long arms, you could reach that drain plug no problem, but it's just that much easier to jack the side up a bit!

thanks
hopefully that helps people alot
great instruction

I wouldnt say I have overly long arms, but could certainly reach my drain plug with the wrench. No jacking needed....just get up nice an close to the right front wheel and you can reach it and still have enough reach left over for torque.

Also, for $1 I would definately recommend you change the crush washer each time you pull the drain plug. That is why it is called a crush washer - it crushes. Once crushed youve used it up.

You may get by using it twice, but not much more left in it. I got the Mazda filter and the Stealership just tapped a washer to it at no charge! I was stunned, but gratfull.

Thanks for posting these comprehensive instructions, I am planning to do my own oil and filter change a 1000 miles.

That is when I eventually get my car, some time in Novemeber.

Chris

I wouldnt say I have overly long arms, but could certainly reach my drain plug with the wrench. No jacking needed....just get up nice an close to the right front wheel and you can reach it and still have enough reach left over for torque.

Same here. Had no problem reaching the drain plug without lifting the car.

How did you keep the oil from running down when you took the filter off? did you use something to deflect or channel it to the drain pan, or just use rags to wipe up the oil?

I let the car sit for a while. When I took the oil filter off, just a few drops came out, that's all!

Here's some interesting info. These filters are exactly the same.

except that the mazda one is used, but the internals and stampings are exactly the same.

The reference is a brand new Yamaha Filter for a 2003 R6 Motorcycle

Originally posted by syntrix
Here's some interesting info. These filters are exactly the same.
The Mazda oil filter looks like it has more filter paper inside of it.

Originally posted by Rick
The Mazda oil filter looks like it has more filter paper inside of it.

It's exactly the same. Mazda one looks different as it's used, so the paper is darker.

Yamaha is not wet at all. If you saw them in person, you would see it. BTW, the Mazda one is bound to be cheaper anyway.

I guess alot of engines share the same size filters. My FD has the same size filter as a Hyundai 1.8L.
Syntrix,Is the price of the filters the same for the R6 & 8.

There are a lot of common oil filters out there. 5-6 manufactures make 30+ name brands of filters.

Usually the M1-108 and M1-110 are interchangeable. For xreferencing, compare the ph7317 to the ph6607!

The M1-105(ph3950) is a bad choice for oversizing. Different internal specs.

Originally posted by 6speed8
How did you keep the oil from running down when you took the filter off? did you use something to deflect or channel it to the drain pan, or just use rags to wipe up the oil?

I just popped a hole in the old filter with a phillips head SD (after loosening first!!), then while got my rags and wrenches together, let the filter drain.

By the time I finished draining and replugging the bottom, the old filter didnt let out a drop when I pulled it.

The pictures and information on changing oil are great. Thanks.

I do have a question. Are you familiar with the fumoto drain valves? I am about to order fumotos for my miata and tundra and was wondering if there would be any reason not to get one for my RX-8 as well. I have not changed oil yet as I have only 2K miles.

A fumoto will work just fine. Thanks for reminding me, too!!!

Good info on the M1-110!

BTW, the R6 filter has got to be MUCH more expensive. I think it's like $12-14 at the dealer.

Anyone fit the Mobil M1-110 yet?

And when I meant cheap Mazda filter, I was referring to the PRICE of the filter. The internals are the same, and motorcycle filter has to work MUCH harder than a car filter. So rest assured, that little filter must be doing great things for the rotory!

This is a somewhat old page, but it tells you to stay away from FRAM oil filters. Has FRAM inproved its quality since, or would you also avoid them?

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

Thanks syntrix......nice work.

Kind regards,
Doug

syntrix, outstanding instructions. Do you write tech manuals for a living? My RX is currently at 1200 miles and beginning to contemplate the first oil change. Combined knowledge on this forum is like having your own personal pit crew!

awesome!

Moderator: can we get this into the DIY forum so it is easily referenced later??

great thread one question...was the OEM filter as hard to get off as has been mentioned and can you use the F sized wrench to take the original Mazda filter off?

My original oil filter was very hard to remove. There is no
way I could remove it without the filter wrench. The "F" size
oil filter wrench fits on the original filter.

Also, I highly recommend using a jack stand before you
get under the car. Never get under a car with only the
jack holding it up.

Not sure about the Mazda filter wrench, but my filter wrench slipped on the filter the 1st time, because it was on there so darned tight. Some Saran-Wrap added the required thickness to torque that puppy off. Search for an earlier oil change how-to thread for more details and photos.

I'm using K&N oil filters because they have a handy 1" nut incorporated into the top of the filter so you can tighten/loosen the filter with a 1" socket on the end of your 3/8" extension instead of mucking around with a cap-type filter wrench or cramping up your hand. The K&N part # for RX-8 is HP1008.

I had to line a cap-wrench with sandpaper to get off the original filter. Many thanks to someone on this forum for that idea.

will the larger Mobil One filter be better because of the larger filtering surface?

great pics and inst. thanks!

great instructions! did my first oil change today! thanks!

I did my first change today after 1250 miles - just to get rid of any break-in particulate that might be floating around in there. Thanks for the tips!

I found that definitely had to poke a hole in the old filter with a nail. Even after letting the car sit for ~20 minutes or so, there was a substantial amount of oil still in the filter, which promptly spilled out onto the block when I broke the seal! I quickly tightened the filter back on, keeping a lot of oil still in the filter. Then I poked the hole to allow air in the back side of the filter. Then, after another minute, the filter was removed with only a drop or two needing to be cleaned-up.

BTW, I used the larger M1-110 filter and jacked the left side of the car to get more oil out. I had to put in about 4.75 quarts back in to get it up even with the "full line"!

Ok, a TC reply (you can call it Tall Corn or two cents - your choice)

Did my break-in change today at 1525 miles - Castrol 5W20 (Grey cap for those looking) and Fram PH6607. Been a Castrol GTX fan for years - Sorry Gordon -

Things noticed - 3.25 quarts out, 4 quarts in. After done, stick just slightly under F mark, not really worried since I check it pretty regularly.

Filter was kinda hard to get in and out through the tubing and the firewall but still made it ok. Oil dripped from old filter easily caught in paper towels placed at base of old filter prior to job start. I would, to ease extraction of the old and insertion of the new filter, suggest you set aside the dip stick, unless that was originally stated at the start of this thread.

One thing that got my attention was the color of the oil - it was a grey-like color, not muddy gray, like when you have a water leak or condensation problems, but unlike normal carboned motor oil, this was an almost transparent black, like looking through charcoal sunglasses. That's the best I can describe it. It didn't feel to the touch like anything other than oil, and had a normal mileage oil smell to it. The taste, well, ha! Didn't get that far....:p

Anyway, no trouble reaching the drain plug, although I'm glad I had purchased a 19mm box wrench for an earlier job I had done many miles ago on my '91 Camry.

I've had more difficult oil changes on my 45 years, but I'd rate this one as fairly easy also as long as you don't have the old filter torqued down too hard.

Tall...................

I did mine too and it took 15 minutes. Used the Mityvac oil extractor and Purolator Pure One oil filter along with the 3/8" socket filter wrench.

Mityvac (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html)

also for a quick drain plug i got a fram SD2 cost about 12 bucks and fit is perfect.

beers

Originally posted by dplore
My original oil filter was very hard to remove. There is no
way I could remove it without the filter wrench. The "F" size
oil filter wrench fits on the original filter.

Also, I highly recommend using a jack stand before you
get under the car. Never get under a car with only the
jack holding it up.

I purchased a filter wrench from Trussville - it fits the larger, original filter as well as the smaller, replacement filters. Not sure if this is the "F" wrench, but it does have an "F" stamped on the inside along with other stuff.

Used a 6" and 3" extension, with a universal joint in-between. 3" piece connected to wrench and 6" to the ratchet. Original filter came off fairly easily.

A little sandpaper under the cap wrench makes getting the original filter off a lot easier.

What size is the crush washer?

why are you changing your own oil when the dealer will do it for you up to 36,00 miles for free?

I just called my dealer's service department (Hiley Mazda in Arlington, TX) and posed this question to them.

Their answer was: An earlier release of the Rx8 did not have the HP as it was said it had when it was sold. Customers who had this model were given the offer of having a choice of having their car bought back or having their maint done for free.

I had purchased my base 6MT a little over a month ago and did not get this program as my car has plenty of giddy-yup.

Otherwise, any oil change is at my cost.

Tall.......................

I don't have that free service you're talking about, I only had the first free 2000km oil change and that's it!
plus, after my airbag recall where they broke part of my glove box and said nothing makes me kinda paranoid so I just let ppl working on my 8 out of my sight as little as possible :p


Originally posted by blue flash
why are you changing your own oil when the dealer will do it for you up to 36,00 miles for free?

Great instructions!

Will be finally getting around to changing out the oil tonight. Will be using a Mobil-1 M1-110 filter with Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend motor oil.

I thought sythetics were discouraged in the manual? Also, what size is the crush washer?

Don't have the dimensions on the crush washer -- I re-used it this time. Will prolly replace it at the next change.

The manual stipulates API Service SL and ILSAC GF3 oil standards -- nothing more, nothing less. Any oil meeting the standard is OK. Besides, Mazda resolved the whole debate on synths officially a few months ago, IIRC, when they declared synths as A-OK.

I use the motorcraft synth blend because it's exhbited solid quality and the price/availability is great -- Walmart has it for about $1.75 a quart. I drop the extra $$ on the filter, though (around $11 -- the M1s are worth it, though).

Next project is a tranny & differential oil change...

please point me to the source that gave the A-Ok to synthetics


love,
Dr Skeptical

[QUOTE]awesome!

Moderator: can we get this into the DIY forum so it is easily referenced later??

QUOTE]

What he said ^

Just changed my oil yesterday on my 8.
Mine didn't have a factory crush washer on it when I took it off, unless it fell inside.

Q: Does anyone have the torque spec from the manual? I set mine to my Rx-7's (30 ft/lbs).

Tip: if you are putting rags underneath the filter to catch some oil that may spill out, be careful that you don't knock off the clutch slave cylinder rubber bleeder cap.

Have been away for a few weeks, on deployment.

For those looking for info on synth oils, there have been many threads written up about the spec-facts, as well as the rumors surrounding synth oils. Several of the threads also noted the fact that Mazda's recommended oils are both mineral based AND synthetic, with the European RX8's getting ONLY synthetic motor oil...

I consider it a non issue. For those who are still skeptical, I welcome you conduct a search and to re-read the threads.

Just BTW, have driven 1400 miles since the oil change. MPG is up from 18.5 to 19.5 in mixed driving.

Ciao!

Will be performing a 5k mile change this week, so I thought I'd post some additional info for those interested.

I'm not normally such a stickler on oil specs, but I thought I'd do some more research on oils and filters and post my own conclusions here FWIW.

Some good reference reading: Mark Lawrence's excellent website is devoted to motorcycle technology, but it provides some very good engineering-based discussion on the make-up and usefulness of various oils and filters. He makes recommendations from a motorcycle perspective, but much of the model numbers and issues are similar and applicable, if not the same, for the Renesis (or other engines, for that matter). Mark Lawrence's Site (http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/) His receommendations have been stated by others elsewhere: his favorites are the Pure One (PL14610/14612, ~$6) and the Mobil-1 M1-108/110, ~$10). I'm going to use a PL14612. I'm not going to continue with the "larger" size filter alternatives -- the smaller ones are just easier to handle...

I read through several postings on The Oil Drop Forums (http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi) linked with Bob's "Oil Guy" Site (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/)

It turns out my original choice (Motorcraft Synth Blend) for a good 5w20 oil has become the "darling" of the oil drop forums (excellent Used Oil Analysis results). Note: I confirmed through several postings that this oil is made by Conoco and is a "blend" of group II, II+, and III oils. It is NOT blended with PAO-type (group IV+) synthetics. Conoco "Hydroclear" is similar stuff. Castrol GTX, Pennzoil, Havoline/Chevron (supreme) all seem to be excellent choices for VERY high-performance mineral oils (mostly blends of group II and group III oils), without the cost of the "boutique" oils (the Motorcraft is $1.40/quart). I'm going to continue using the Motorcraft 5w20.

I plan on doing another oil change at 7500 and sending in a sample of the Motorcraft for testing to help establish a baseline for this oil in the Renesis.

Part numbers for crush washers:
1. oil drain plug: 9956-41-400
2. tranny drain plug: Y601-17-361
3. differential drain plug: 9956-41-800

The oil drain plug "gaskets" were 80 cents, and measure 9.6mm ID and 20mm OD. I plan to take one to a parts store and see if I can find/recommend a less expensive alternative for those who unfortunately are experincing some "stealership gouging" with the washers.

The tranny and diffy plug gaskets are $1.40 and $1.10, respectively. I'll post findings on these in the Tranny/Differential Fluid Change Thread (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19006&highlight=tranny+differential)

Ciao!

Another quick tip...
I followed all the advice of this DIY which was great. My original oil filter was on so tight that I broke two oil filter wrenches before I actually broke it loose. The first was a plastic type. The second was steel that broke out the center piece. Save your self some time and start with a steel cap.

guys, read this:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

stick with mazda OEM filter

400hp FD here

I have received many reports of these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split.

That is specific to the Mobil one #301 filter. What are you trying to say about the 110 or the 108?

Just changed my oil yesterday on my 8.
Mine didn't have a factory crush washer on it when I took it off, unless it fell inside.

Q: Does anyone have the torque spec from the manual? I set mine to my Rx-7's (30 ft/lbs).

Tip: if you are putting rags underneath the filter to catch some oil that may spill out, be careful that you don't knock off the clutch slave cylinder rubber bleeder cap.


I thought I didn't have a crush washer from the factory, either. I later realized it was stuck on the drain bolt, and the side of the washer was painted black. For what its worth...

I broke the dealer oil filter wrench trying to get the filter off. I found a universal wrench at Autozone that worked great... the harder you turn the tighter it grabs the filter. :)

Nice instructions syntrix. I changed my oil yesterday (6K miles) - went pretty smooth including getting the filter off due to the good directions. Used the phram6607 with valvoline 5-20. This was actually the cars second oil change - first one was at the dealer. Couple observations:

I did put a shop rag around the bottom of the filter prior to loosening and was glad I did. I tried to loosen a little to let some air in and the oil to drain out - quite a bit drained out all right - fortunately on the shop rag. Next time I'll probably just poke a hole in the top.

Not much room to get the filter out and slide the new one in. Would be easier for someone with smaller hands.

I was surprised how tight the oil drain plug was. It was tough to loosen - hard to get leverage with the car sitting on it's wheels although can be done. Also the washer fell off in the drip pan. I probably wouldn't have thought to look for it except I had reviewed this thread prior to starting.

I actually jacked the left side to drain more oil out (also to rotate tires) - used 4 1/2 quarts and it's just slightly under full mark

I did the first oil change today. I was a bit worried about getting the oil filter off. I bought the filter wrench and extensions as posted. I must say this was one of the easiest changes I've ever done. I wish my Jeep was that easy. Thanks again for posting the necessary tools. :)

Erin

Here's a trick.

I usually start the car up in the morning and let it warm up 5 min max.

The car is not too hot to work on and there shouldn't be too much oil up in the can.

Usually two minutes work for me. Just enough to warm up the oil a little. It all drains out no problem. This way they can has been empty over night and the paper filter isn't completely saturated with oil which spills out when you take the can off.

I change mine eveery 3 to 5000 miles.

Just changed my oil today at exactly 5000 miles. Was easy, but I did spill lil bit of oil getting the filter off. Wiped it up, but did slightly stain the new engine...oh well. The torque specs for the oil pan drain plug is 21.7-28.9 ft-lbs. I tightened mine to 25.

I'm posting it here, because some of you veteran oil changers will probably think these are dumb questions... :)

Be that as it may, I'd rather get the info than stay ignorant.

1. How do I locate the appropriate lift points for jacking up the front end of my 8?
(My shop manual hasn't arrived, but I want to change my oil this weekend.)

I understand there are two on each side, and someone told me there was a frame point or something I could put my jack on to lift the whole front end. I'd really appreciate this since I really DON"T want to lift on the wrong point.


2. Where do you take your used oil after your oil change?
(I don't think it's appropriate to throw it away in the garbage.)

Thanks,
-Dennis

Autozone takes used oil for recycling.

1. Crawl underneath the car and you should see an empty slot where the top of the jack should fit neatly. Be careful not to jack it on the plastic covers, it will start bending and thats a no no (I realized it after a while and had to put it down and search for it).

2. Any gas station (that does oil changes and other services to cars) should have an oil recycle center. The one near my house, they had theirs on the ground where there was a big tank full of oil.

Al

Thanks guys, oil changed with no mishaps.

I was a little worried about the lift points and the oil filter.

The lift point was pretty obvious once I looked at the jack and at the underside of each side of the car.

The oil filter was pretty easy with the filter wrench and two six inch extensions and a U joint on the end of the ratchet.

This first time took a little while because I didn't even know where the drain plug was. :) I guess if you plan to do your own maintenance, it's not a bad idea to spend a little time with the hardware.

It's funny, my last car (Honda Accord) I could care less about dropping it off at the dealership for service. This thing, I dropped it off at the dealer for something, and when I picked it up, I cringed thinking about them driving it over to me. My wife says I'm silly, but I know you guys understand! :)

Thanks again,
-Dennis

I'm hesitant on using the Fram PH6607 oil filter because of its small size (not enogh filter surface). i also read that someone used synthetic oil! It clearly states in the manual not to use synthetic. Thanks for the tips on the oil change syntrix, ill be changing my oil very soon (currently have 1200 miles)

I'm hesitant on using the Fram PH6607 oil filter because of its small size (not enogh filter surface). i also read that someone used synthetic oil! It clearly states in the manual not to use synthetic. Thanks for the tips on the oil change syntrix, ill be changing my oil very soon (currently have 1200 miles)

I recommend either the Mobil-1 M108 or the Purolator PureOne PL14612. I've not read anything good in the literature (for both testing and specs) regarding the Fram and Fram-based filters. I use the PureOne -- half the cost of the Mobil-1, with all the performance (and about 50% more filter area, IIRC).

I recommend you check out some of the threads on synthetic oil use. Also, the manual states an oil specification (ILSAC and API ratings) and weight (5W20) to be used, but it does not specifically state not to use a synthetic oil... unless you're driving an '05, and they've changed the manual to say "no synthetics"??

At any rate, the term "synthetic" is more of a marketing term nowadays than anything else -- most of the oils marketed as "synthetic" are actually highly-refined mineral oils (group II, II+, III). To wit: I use Motorcraft 5W20, which is a "blended synthetic" oil. This oil is the same as Conoco's premium 5W20 mineral-based oil ("Hydroclear" is the name, IIRC). This oil is a "blend" of group II+, and group III mineral oils. Before Mobil lost it's lawsuit against Castrol (for their "Syntec" product), the term "synthetic" strictly referred to "group IV" purely man-made (non-mineral or "dino") oils. According to some posts on "theoildrop" forums, even some weights of Mobil-1 are now highly-refined mineral oils or blends. Generally, only the "boutique" synthetics, like Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil remain as "pure" synthetics.

Go with an oil that meets the specification in the manual, and you should be fine. Additionally, look for one that also meets not only the "Honda" but especially the "Ford" specification for 5W20 motor oil. The Ford spec is the most rigorous for the new 5W20 oils.

I did my third oil change. I did try mobil one M108 and Purolator PL14612 filters. I found no differences. I was about to get again mobil one filter but I decided to try Bosh 3300. As far I could tell, both filter are identical with the little device with the spring inside (I don't remember the name). But definetely with the fram filter does not have any. Also, the Bosh filter cost half of the price of the mobil one.

Does the '05 manual really say "no synthetics"?

I did my third oil change. I did try mobil one M108 and Purolator PL14612 filters. I found no differences. I was about to get again mobil one filter but I decided to try Bosh 3300. As far I could tell, both filter are identical with the little device with the spring inside (I don't remember the name). But definetely with the fram filter does not have any. Also, the Bosh filter cost half of the price of the mobil one.

Rojr that. Same with me. I actually found, through research (I think the links to some articles are in one of my earlier posts), that the PureOne filters actually have a lot more filtration area than the Mobil-1 filters (of the same physical size and specific application). Also 1/2 the price of the Mobil-1.

In all the articles I've read, the Bosch filters were also highly-regarded.

Does the '05 manual really say "no synthetics"?

NO ONE has confirmed that. I highly doubt it. Re-read my post, and you'll see that I was inquiring as to the source of "newcastle's" concern. The only oil specified in the manual (at least, in the 2004 manual, and, oh, BTW, the 2005 cars are the same...) is 5W20 motor oil meeting API Service SL and ILSAC GF3 specifications.

I suspect Newcastle was running on the old (i.e., dead) "synthetics are bad for rotaries" issue. It's been talked about quite a bit in other threads. I recommend we not turn this discussion into another "synth vs. dino" discourse.

Ciao!

The 2005 Owners Manual only specifies SAE 5W-20 oil that meets the two standards (API & ILSAC). It says nothing at all about the use of "Synthetics".

NO ONE has confirmed that. I highly doubt it. Re-read my post, and you'll see that I was inquiring as to the source of "newcastle's" concern. The only oil specified in the manual (at least, in the 2004 manual, and, oh, BTW, the 2005 cars are the same...) is 5W20 motor oil meeting API Service SL and ILSAC GF3 specifications.

I suspect Newcastle was running on the old (i.e., dead) "synthetics are bad for rotaries" issue. It's been talked about quite a bit in other threads. I recommend we not turn this discussion into another "synth vs. dino" discourse.

Ciao!

I have an 04 and I must have got my thread mixed with my manual. I just read through my manual again to confirm that I did'nt read "do not use synthetic oil", and I did not see it listed any where in the manual. I apologize for any confusion i might have started.

since torque was mentioned, what is the torque supposed to be on the drain plug? i don't have my car yet, but noticed there is a dish under the engine. does this need to be removed or is the drain plug behind this "dish?"

thnx for good instructions and information.

yamajj

except that the mazda one is used, but the internals and stampings are exactly the same.

The reference is a brand new Yamaha Filter for a 2003 R6 Motorcycle

are you saying we can use the oil filter which goes on an r6? if so, k&n makes a filter just a dollar more than the $11 yamaha filter. (stock # kn-303)

yamajj
ps i have two yamaha r1 bikes and work at a yamaha dealer. :D

it's actually a 17mm nut on top of the k&n. i know, because i use them on both my bikes. i will most likely use it on my rx-8 also.

yamajj

disregard the torque question as i saw the specs in another page.

thnx. yamajj

I wrote to Mazda about the use of Synthetic Oil in the Rotary engine, since the manual doesn't say one way or the other... here is what they had to say....

Dear John,

Thank you for contacting Mazda North American Operations. I appreciate
the opportunity to respond to you.

In regard to your inquiry, Mazda recommends using 5W-20 engine oil for
the Mazda RX-8. Please understand, Mazda hasn't done any long-term
testing using synthetic oil with the RENESIS rotary engine. As such,
we don't recommend the use of synthetic oil.

Regards,

Lisa Lasky
Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business

I received the following response from Dave at Redline oil.

Chris,

We recommend and use our products in rotary engines once the engine has been allowed to brake-in. We have used products extensively from the beginning in the rotary engines with very good results.

Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil

Well, just changed my 8's oil today for the first time. Did my wife's 6 right after. The 8 already had a service oil change so with the proper setup described in this diy the filter came off easy. The 6, used the plier type wrench and it took a while but I finally broke it loose. I could not believe the amount of oil coming out of the 6 filter. Its snug up tight and you can't help but get a shitload on the car no matter how long you let the pan drain. Next time I will have to cover crap up. The 8 spills just a little but I hate the location of the filter on both cars. Ramps and wheel chocks. Piece of cake on the 8 and the piece of mind you didn't forget anything like the service depts. do habitually. Go for it.

I would like to thank Syntrix and all the other people who posted the information in this thread. I just did my first oil change (on any car) at about 2400 miles this weekend. I used the M1-108 filter and Mobil 5,000 non-synthetic 5W-20. Everything went fine after I was able to get the factory filter and overtightened drain plug loosened.

As a note though, my drain plug just had a normal washer on it, this isn't the same "crush washer" that's referred to a few times on the first page of this thread is it? It looks just like a normal metal washer you would find anywhere.

Thanks again for all the help, the walkthrough was very helpful and I appreciated the specifics on the filter size, oil amount (I used 4 qts., I was about 1/3 of a qt. low before the change), and definately the filter wrench size and drain plug size. Next project, the wife's '90 Explorer and eventually, my differential and trans fluids to Red Line!

As a note though, my drain plug just had a normal washer on it, this isn't the same "crush washer" that's referred to a few times on the first page of this thread is it? It looks just like a normal metal washer you would find anywhere.
Yep, that's it. The term "crush washer" is a bit misleading. Makes you think of the washer on a spark plug that noticably flattens out when crushed. The washer on the drain plug is not like that. Rather, it is made of a softish aluminum that deforms slightly to form a good seal when the drain plug is tightened.

What happened to all the pictures?

Would be nice to have them back...

i need to take pics of my oil change w/ the Fumoto drain valve... you guys will be amazed how easy it becomes... lol

Which Fumoto did you order, the F106? Do you need the the ADP-106 Adapter? Did you use the stock 'crush washer'.

Thanks for the info!

F106 + adp-106.

use the drain valve's fiber washers

it's been great.

I use the Fram SD-2

works good

Just did my first oil change the other day. Normally, I would not make much of an oil change.... but the oil filter has to be in the worst place I've run into yet. I did not use an extension or cap wrench, but still..... Maybe next time I will heat it up a little.. then cut it off, then punch a hole in the top of the oil filter. I punched a hole and left it for 20 minutes this time around. Other than a little oil running all over, not bad.

I agree with Zoom, bought the Fumoto with adapter, also put one on wife's Miata and one on my Montero Sport. These things are the best for quick oil changes, less mess but they do drain slowly. I poke around at the other fluids and change out the filter.

Word of caution though...if you poke a hole in the filter... first make sure that you have the wheels turned to the right so you can reach the valve. My bonehead move the first change with the Fumoto, turned the wheels the wrong direction..couldn't reach..jumped in started it up to turn the wheels and saw oil flying from the hole in the filter. Total brain f*rt! Shut down immediately (luckily engine was warm, no flooding worry). What a mess to clean up.

you needed to turn wheel to the right to reach the drain valve? i can reach it with the wheels pointed straightforward... i have extra long right arm?? :o :D

Yeah, the 33 sleeve doesn't quite make the reach without turning the wheels so I can get my shoulder a little under the car.

Where's the pictures from the beginning of this thread?

Yeah, pics?

After the prospect of another $24 oil change at the dealer yesterday, I bit the bullet and bought a half-dozen OEM filters (and crush washers) from the parts counter and a case of GTX from the parts store. Thus the makings of a Saturday project...

Thanks to the initial postings here, I had a vague idea of where/what I was looking for underneath. I will say I had been overly used to oil changes on my previous cars and had become used to looking for the drain plug on the driver's side of the pan. A quick reference of the manual fixed that (owner's manual?? Yeah that thing taking up space in the glovebox...who knew?). The "turn the wheels all the way to the right" tip was money.

Well, after finally finding the drain plug (more on the side at the bottom than just "on the bottom"), I discovered that I wouldn't have enough clearance to get any muscle behind turning the ratchet. Damn. Alright, I guess I WILL have to jack the car up a bit. Since I've been lazy and haven't ordered the replacement saddle for my floor jack from Eastwood, I ended up breaking out my scissors jack from the trunk and cranked up the right front side.

With freshly raised car, I still find I can't quite get the leverage I need to break the plug loose. Given this I do find that there's quite a bit of room from the front. This is where the warning bells go off. Am I willing to chance my life on the "emergency" scissors jack graciously provided by Mazda (you know, the one that was provided without a spare tire unless you ordered it)? Short answer: oh hell no. Fortunately, the floor jack I got from Sears had a pair of jack stands that came with it (bought last year when Megareds posted the deal on here). A few more cranks on the jack give me just enough room to slide the jack stand in next to it.

Ok, with new found safety net to prevent me from earning a Darwin award, I move in and am able to finally break the drain plug free. FYI: for those without a 19mm socket, a standard 3/4" socket works just fine. Is it exact? Well, 19mm works out to be .748 inches. I'm willing to live with 2 thousandths of an inch difference. Quick, someone call Mazda and void my warranty. Not.

After removing the oil fill cap and then letting the drain plug fall into the grated catch on my drain pan, I pull the jack stand out and lower the car back down to drain out. I had expected to NEED my oil filter cap wrench to get the filter off. After a few choice words when I realized that there was no getting my ratchet extension to the filter wrench attachment without a universal joint, I chanced it and tried twisting the filter by hand. God bless the monster who torqued down on my drain plug, because he did me a favor by not overtightening the filter (thus redeeming himself). I could turn it by hand w/ a little effort, so I then pop a hole in the oil filter w/ a phillips head and my trusty rubber mallet to break the vacuum in the filter to let it drain as well. Time to go fix a cold drink and motor around the house a bit.

About 15 mins later I come back out to find only an occasional drip from the oil pan drain and figure I'm probably safe to remove the filter. "No, that's just what they'd be expecting us to do..." All I can say is that I shudder to think of the mess if I hadn't popped a hole in it to start. Expecting a few drops, I got a few more than that. Quickly I screwed the filter back down, and with a few more choice words I head for my roll of garage paper towels. Quick plug: if you haven't used them before, Viva paper towels are extreeeemely absorbent if you're short on shop towels. After stuffing several of these down around the bottom of the fliter area, I unscrew it again. Much better this time. I'm thinking, "Great, it's all good now that I've got the filter turned upside down." Yeah, not so much, mastermind. Remember the hole you tapped in the top? That's where the motor oil running into your hand is coming from. A quick save by putting it in the leftover plastic bag from the parts store and it's no longer a factor.

Ran a little fresh oil around the gasket on the filter and threaded it on to the "solidly hand-tight" level. It won't be going anywhere, but it won't require Herculean effort to remove either. With scissors jack and jack stand in place again, it's back under the front to put the drain plug and fresh crush washer on. I don't have the requisite 1/2 to 3/8" adapter for my torque wrench, so it's a guessimate of effort putting the plug back in. In the end I tighten it to an approximate of what effort it took to remove. It ain't going anywhere. Jack and jack stand back out again.

When you guys posted "3.7 quarts" to fill it (provided you didn't jack the left side to make it drain out even more), no joke - it was 3.7 (or so) quarts. Something to be said for attention to detail - thanks! Checked the dipstick - dead on "full." Swab the oil fill cap gasket w/ fresh oil and put it back in. Time to fire it up and check for leaks. None noted, and everything is right with the world. Thanks again to all the previous posters w/ all the insider info, as it made it a much easier job. Next time will be a piece of cake. :)

Yea, I don't see the pics either.

<snip>
This is where the warning bells go off. Am I willing to chance my life on the "emergency" scissors jack graciously provided by Mazda (you know, the one that was provided without a spare tire unless you ordered it)? Short answer: oh hell no.
<snip>


Good choice. I actually watched the big screw spontaneously strip right through one of those jacks once. It happens with no warning, very quiet and very fast. Like someone lowering a hydraulic jack.

Anyone fit the Mobil M1-110 yet?

And when I meant cheap Mazda filter, I was referring to the PRICE of the filter. The internals are the same, and motorcycle filter has to work MUCH harder than a car filter. So rest assured, that little filter must be doing great things for the rotory!

I installed a mobil1 M-110 today, and seemed to work fine. It's a little bigger than the one that was in there and kinda hard to get a good grip on, but seems fine.

Thanks to all the previous posters. First oil change today at 2300 miles. Used the pureone filter, fram sd-2 sure drain and castrol oil (4 qts). Everything went smoothly, except the factory filter, which was very much more than "hand" tightened.

Had I not read this thread, my experience would probably have been much different, thanks again RX8club!

Istalled a Sure Drain valve (SD-2) a while back, and just changed my oil for the second time with it installed. :)

Very impressed, the brass cap covers the ball valve, keeps it nice and clean, and it drained reasonably quickly - I cut the drain hose down to a couple of inches, so it just clears the bottom of the car.

Capped, the whole thing is WAY lower profile than the Fumoto setup, which needs the 'extender' so sticks out even more.

S

What happened to the pics?

Post the pics again pls would help

Post the pics again pls would help
Yes please.

Thanks to all the previous posters. First oil change today at 2300 miles. Used the pureone filter, fram sd-2 sure drain and castrol oil (4 qts). Everything went smoothly, except the factory filter, which was very much more than "hand" tightened.

Had I not read this thread, my experience would probably have been much different, thanks again RX8club!

just a note i am also using the fram sd-2 sure drain. put it on at the first oil change. now a 28K mile it is a great investment. think it was 12 buck and you can get it at auto zone or i guess any other parts store.

is anyone using synthetic? I've always used Mobil 1 full synthetic in my two vtec cars and i drove them to hell and back with no problems.

is anyone using synthetic? I've always used Mobil 1 full synthetic in my two vtec cars and i drove them to hell and back with no problems.

Well, the synthetic debate raged for quite some time here. The conclusion I think, after people emailed MNAO, was the Mazda will not recommend the use of synthetic oil, simply because they never did any long term testing of its effects. That being said, many people here run synthetic. Me, I stick to dino and see no benefit whatsoever in using synthetic oils on any engine, if you are going to change the oil every 3k miles, but that's my opinion.

Were there supposed to be pics with the original post?

Yes, there were images but they disappeared some time ago and the mods have not been able to resurrect them. I happen to have the first part of the thread saved on my hard drive and will send you a zip file that includes the images. PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send them now.

Larry

Its not a big deal for the pics, its pretty idiot proof if you have any idea what you are looking for and/or have a manual.

so the drain plug is on the passengers side of the oil pan?

so the drain plug is on the passengers side of the oil pan?

Yes.

Has anyone used one of these for their oil changes, god it makes it that much easier...

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_1000&L2=L2_1007&L3=L3_4500&SKU=10122

I would be concerned that some significant quantity of oil, including the heavier metalic particulates that settle to the bottom, would remain in the oil pan. Not to mention that I can crawl under the car many times for that kind of money.

What type of oil filter wrench are you guys using for the OEM filter?

my hand

anyone try using a magnet at the bottom of the oil pan to take up additional metallic particles?

i know tranny pans have em... maybe i'll just stick some magnetic strip on the bottom of the pan outside... then once in a while take off the pan and clean it up...

Ever having problems getting off that stock oil filter because it is on too tight? Go to Napa and purchase the wrench (STL 63600) $14.00, spins it right off. This wrench is setup like a claw, as you are turning it, it applies more pressure to the oil filter... Really worked great on my 05'.

anyone try using a magnet at the bottom of the oil pan to take up additional metallic particles?

i know tranny pans have em... maybe i'll just stick some magnetic strip on the bottom of the pan outside... then once in a while take off the pan and clean it up...

pretty sure that the stock plug is magnetic.

pretty sure that the stock plug is magnetic.

does it pick up stuff?

What type of oil filter wrench are you guys using for the OEM filter?
You can get one from a dealer or just pick up a Type F at an auto parts store.

does it pick up stuff?

If you are taking care of the car, there shouldn't be a lot of stuff for it to pick up, but I seem to remember there being stuff on it after the break in period.

Excuse my ignorance and inexperience, but when I try to click on anything in your posts to get visuals (Oil Changing) I end up at a website. What am I doing wrong?

Excuse my ignorance and inexperience, but when I try to click on anything in your posts to get visuals (Oil Changing) I end up at a website. What am I doing wrong?
There have been problems with disappearing images. Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send you a ZIP file with the key parts of this thread including images.

its pretty simple once you do it, pics are more for a jump start.

MODS can you bring back the pictures or what you call it? thanks

(if there are any pictures)

really dont need pics. Just find the oil filter right by your firewall, find the drain plug on the oil pan and go crazy

Just changed my oil and I have to say this is one of the easier cars to do an oil change on. With that said, I jacked up the car on the driver's side instead of the passenger and as a result because of the angle of the oil filter made a little puddle under the car. Next time passenger side. I used a NAPA gold oil filter made by Wix which is the best one they carry $7.49. I also had to pick up the filter wrench $8.50 NAPA. Thanks for the information.

Yeah, easy compared to most of the other cars I've owned. I jack up the car from the passenger side, place jack stand in appropriate place, remove the wheel, place pan under drain plug, remove the drain plug, remove stand and lower passenger side of car as much as possible to facilitate draining.

Punch hole in top of oil filter and let drain into the pan. Wrap rags around base of oil filter pedestal and remove filter. Install filter, raise passenger side of car, reinstall drain plug with new gasket/washer, reinstall wheel and lower car. Refill engine oil until near the top mark. Run engine for a few minutes, let sit for a few more minutes, recheck and top off the oil to bring the level to the top mark.

The stock plug is not magnetic.

Stock tranny and rear end plugs ARE magnetic.

S

what are you using to poke a hole in the filter?

A long screw driver and a ball peen hammer. Not the best tool, but it works. Just don't overdo it and end up damaging the inside of the filter with small parts dropping into places they shouldn't.

any other suggestions?

Beware the capacity numbers in the owners manual. They are only guidelines and you should add oil in steps so that you don't overfill. Always replace the aluminum drain plug washer-gasket--or at least replace it every other oil change. Make sure you wrap rags or paper towels around the base of the filter pedestal when you remove the filter or you may have some oil dribble down the side of the engine and on to the floor/ground.

Where are the pics? I know people have commented on good pics that are up, but I can't find any.

Where are the pics? I know people have commented on good pics that are up, but I can't find any.
Yeah, they periodically disappear. I have a zip file with the first part of the thread with the pics. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send you the file.

I took my filter off with my hand, it says to do it at a Mazda dealer rofl, fucking tards.

It was pretty simple.

Yeah, they periodically disappear. I have a zip file with the first part of the thread with the pics. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send you the file.

pm'd you regarding pics.

Okay, what am I doing wrong?
That @#$% filter isn't coming off with bare hands and the "F" wrench won't fit over the end of it.

Okay, what am I doing wrong?
That @#$% filter isn't coming off with bare hands and the "F" wrench won't fit over the end of it.
Is this the first oil change? The factory usually installs the filter too tight, so this is not an unusual problem.

What do you mean the filter wrench won't fit? Is it too loose or too "small" to fit over the top of the filter? I would guess that you didn't get this from a dealer, so it may not be exactly the correct size even though any "F" size should fit.

If it's too loose, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the inside of the wrench and force the wrench onto the filter. If it's too small to fit on the filter, you may have to get another wrench from a dealer. I hope you didn't drain the oil before you made sure you could get the filter off. :eek: If you did, just postpone the filter change until the next oil change. Not a big deal. That will give you time to get a wrench that fits or to take it to the dealer and ask them to remove the filter--and not put the new one on so tight.

The "F" cap that I got from AutoZone is just a tiny bit too small. It's like it could fit but I need to "pop" it on and I can't get enough leverage or correct angle of force.

I did drain the oil so I absconded with my wife's car and returned the "F" cap for an adjustable "3 claw" wrench that's similar to a cap wrench but tightens as you twist. Filter came right off.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Trying to fix the pics

that your dog?

Yep, that's a pic of him that the breeder sent us in Dec. after we had picked him out. He's a long haired miniature daschund.

Mr. Go48's tip about putting a hole in the filter is a good point - most of the filters' contents will drain down, leaving only an ounce or so to dribble down over the starter motor. :rolleyes:

S

how would I go about taking off an oil filter from a 2005 rx-8 AT? The filter position is so awkward, i've been extremely frustrated of it =(

how would I go about taking off an oil filter from a 2005 rx-8 AT? The filter position is so awkward, i've been extremely frustrated of it =(

a cap-style filter wrench plus a 12 inch socket wrench extension will make it a lot easier; yes doing it barehand can get frustrating, that's why i bought the right tools for the job :ylsuper:

how would I go about taking off an oil filter from a 2005 rx-8 AT? The filter position is so awkward, i've been extremely frustrated of it =(
Did you read this entire thread? If not, do so since there are excellent instructions on how to remove the filter on this car.

Compared to the filters on some other vehicles, this one is a snap. Try crawling under a Honda Prelude to remove a filter and have the hot oil run down your arm and onto the floor. Now that's awkward.

This DIY was a great help, I just changed my oil on my 8 for the first time...what a cinch! I did have the filter splooge some oil when I when I pulled it off (pun intended) lol but outside of that easy... Good job all on all the details

Justed changed my oil for the 1st time. It really is pretty easy. I put together a web page with some pictures of the process.

http://koczarski.com/RX8/Mods/OilChange/Pics.htm

AdamK,

Thanks for the fine illustrations.

The ramps that you have in those picts seemed like regular vanilla type of ramps. How did you get the RX-8 up there without hitting the front spoiler?
Are those low-rise ramps? Where did you get them?

Also, where do you get the Mazda oil filters online? Are the washers available online, too?

AdamK,

Thanks for the fine illustrations.

The ramps that you have in those picts seemed like regular vanilla type of ramps. How did you get the RX-8 up there without hitting the front spoiler?
Are those low-rise ramps? Where did you get them?

Also, where do you get the Mazda oil filters online? Are the washers available online, too?
I'm able to use the standard ramps because my driveway slopes down from the street and the fact that the street also slopes down from the driveway. As for the filter, I used a FRAM. I inspected the existing crush washer and reused it since it looked to be in good shape.

I'm able to use the standard ramps because my driveway slopes down from the street and the fact that the street also slopes down from the driveway. As for the filter, I used a FRAM. I inspected the existing crush washer and reused it since it looked to be in good shape.
FRAM is prob one of the worst oil filters that you can use.

I'm able to use the standard ramps because my driveway slopes down from the street and the fact that the street also slopes down from the driveway. .


That made sense. Thanks!

FRAM is prob one of the worst oil filters that you can use.
Well, I've seen many filter debates on the RX8 boards and many of the motorcycle lists I subscribe to and have heard all the arguments both ways. The bottom line is I haven't heard of one person that actually had a problem with a FRAM or any other filter that caused any engine damage. I've personally used them off and on for 30 years without an issue.

OK, I just did my first oil change. For the record I went with a M1-108 filter and Castrol GTX Dino oil. I bought the F style filter wrench and it fit the M1 filter perfectly but I had the same problem with the OEM filter as a previous poster did. The OEM filter was a little too big for the F style cap wrench. I tried using a band style wrench but couldn't budge the OEM filter. Man that thing was on tight! At the suggestion of another poster I went to Pep Boys and picked up the claw style universal wrench and FINALLY got the OEM filter off. Hey it only took me two days of trying! From now on I can just use the F style which is much easier to use IMO. Whoever puts those OEM filters on needs to be checked for steriods. There is really no sense in a filter being on that tight. Next up is the Diff and tranny change to Royal Purple. Guess I'll have to order those since the local places only have RP motor oil and no gear oil.

this is my first of many oil changes. thank you so much for posting this, it helped alot ^^

here is a pic of me changing it.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/7774/dscf0134qe4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2377/dscf0136sv5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

man, get rid of that front plate! Gotta have that extra airflow for the radiator

man, get rid of that front plate! Gotta have that extra airflow for the radiator
Most of that area of the grille opening is solid anyway so that's not a problem.

man, get rid of that front plate! Gotta have that extra airflow for the radiator

Not to mention the front of the car looks awesome without the damn plate. That said, front plate is required here.

i hear you're supposed to changethe oil on a rotary more frequently. is that true? and if so, how often should i change it?

Since an oil change only replaces about 1/3 of the oil ( oil cooler lines ) doing it every 3,000 is a good idea.

i hear you're supposed to changethe oil on a rotary more frequently. is that true? and if so, how often should i change it?
have you read the manual?

Just changed mine for the first time...

I must say that this DIY info did make it shorter and easier then it would have been intially.

However, i was surprised to find how tight the quarters were around that filter! Wow...it looks accessible but once you try to get yur hand in there, it's impressivly SMALL. And with the car sitting so low the the ground, i second the idea of getting a fram suredrain for next time. It would certainly cut a decent amount of time off that ordeal!

All in all its not really THAT tough of a car to change...toughest part was probably getting the old filter out without soaking the engine with oil.

Oh yea, and BTW...on my 05, there is no crush washer. Just a regular washer thats whole and plain. Another part you would LOVE to no longer deal with after using a fram SD-2. I must add...that I find is sooo funny that FRAM discontinuted their ONE product (suredrain) that was useful and a success with everyone i've talked to. Guess they just can't have quality products :dunno:

thanx again for the write-up!

Just changed mine for the first time...

I must say that this DIY info did make it shorter and easier then it would have been intially.

However, i was surprised to find how tight the quarters were around that filter! Wow...it looks accessible but once you try to get yur hand in there, it's impressivly SMALL. And with the car sitting so low the the ground, i second the idea of getting a fram suredrain for next time. It would certainly cut a decent amount of time off that ordeal!

All in all its not really THAT tough of a car to change...toughest part was probably getting the old filter out without soaking the engine with oil.

Oh yea, and BTW...on my 05, there is no crush washer. Just a regular washer thats whole and plain. Another part you would LOVE to no longer deal with after using a fram SD-2. I must add...that I find is sooo funny that FRAM discontinuted their ONE product (suredrain) that was useful and a success with everyone i've talked to. Guess they just can't have quality products :dunno:

thanx again for the write-up!

*insert plug for Fumoto Drain Valve as better alternative to Fram SureDrain*

i coulda sworn that i saw somewhere else in this emensely huge thread that the fumato hangs lower due to a required extension...

i coulda sworn that i saw somewhere else in this emensely huge thread that the fumato hangs lower due to a required extension...

you do use an extension, but it is PARALLEL to the ground; it does NOT extend further down than the SureDrain; I've had mine on for over 38000 miles, it has been working flawlessly :ylsuper:

Sounds like a pretty sweet deal...i'll likely be looking into that soon...it would totally save the 5-10 minutes it takes to jack the car, then get under and torque that screw off with hardly ANY arm room, then get out, lower down and go to other side and jack up! I'd imagine you won't even have to jack it up at all if you didn't want...that's awesome! :) thanx zoom

i haven't had to lift the car up to do oil change since 2004.......

^^ it is definitely possible to change the oil on the 8 without jacking up the car, but i think I will continue to jack up the car to get as most oil out as possible... instead of the normal 4 quarts or so, i can get 5-6 quarts out using the jacking method... getting more cleaner oil in the 8 always is a good thing... just a personal opinion i guess

No one likes ramps or what?

No one likes ramps or what?
jackstands ftw

Or..you can invest in an additional 2 Qrt of oil to flush out the old oil, before adding in the standard 4 Qrt..I do and notice that the drainage is alot cleaner looking than if I did not (dark black)....only cost me $2 more for the oil change ($1/Qrt specials) :)

Hey all, thanks for all the tips! I want to do this myself soon (hopefully I can master the art of putting her up on ramps :Freak_ani ). Just a couple quick questions if you don't mind -

1) I see alot of people using 5W20. I was under the impression the manual recommended 5W30? Or am I way off? (Sorry, I can't seem to locate my owner's manual right now....)

2) I will occasionally be doing some "winter" driving to upstate NY (possibly as often as every week... for this http://www.icerace.com/). Anyway, should cold weather driving affect your choice of oil at all?

:beer05: -D

mazda specifies 5w20 for the north america market

however, 5w30 is compatible as well.

mazda specifies 5w20 for the north america market

however, 5w30 is compatible as well.

Danke... The key word here is north american market... I've been reading too many French and Russian sites -_-

I changed my oil this weekend for the first time at 960 mi. It was a piece of cake . . . except that some gorilla cranked the oil filter in place way too hard and I could not get it to budge. I tried both hands, with and without gloves, a strap wrench and the size F filter wrench. Nothing budged it. I have to take it to the dealer now because the outside filter casing is somewhat mangled. No leak, but I dont want to push it.

Access to the filter is not bad, but you have very little room to get leverage, so I cant remove it. It's a heck of a lot easier to get to the filter than in my miata, which requires a bit more limb contortion to get to. Getting the oil pan bolt on the RX-8 is easy.

My oil was somewhere between black and olive green, looked bad, so I'm glad I changed it. Now I'll probably change it at 2k mi too, because of the dirty filter.

I would like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread! With your great instructions, changing the oil on the 8 for the first time was a piece of cake!!

I put the car on ramps (one of the benefits of no body kit ;) ). I slapped on a PurOne PL14612, and fed her some Castrol GTX 5W20. Removing the filter was not too hard (it wasn't torqued to death), but I did spill some oil out of it, even though I had punctured the top first.

For fillup, I first poured half a quart and let it drain back out, to try and some more of the old oil outta there. Put the drain plug back in (with a gasket from Advanced Auto Parts that has a slightly larger OD than what was on there previously... not a big deal, the ID is the same), then poured the rest of that bottle, and 3 more. Check the oil level, about 4/5 of the way up the dipstick. Open up the 5th bottle, pour about 1/4qt, measure again and it's spot on. Thanks to whoever it was that posted the diagram about how the dipstick scale is not linear.

Cap back on, let her idle.. No leaks. Pack everything up, put the old oil in a gallon water jug, and off to AAP again to have it recycled. On the way back, I test it out a little, and I can feel just how much more eager she is to rev!! :rock:

Now, I have a couple questions:

1) For those of you that do track days / autocross / drive like crazy around town. How often do you change your oil?

2) Where do you buy oil? Online?

The GTX was over 3$/qt at AAP / Pepboys etc. Is this a decent price? Can it be gotten cheaper? (Fortunately for me, they only had 3 bottles of 5W20 left, so the guy at the counter just gave me two more out of his trunk - they "gey it for free" ... Thanks!).

Peace,
-D

Pep Boys regularly has specials on Castrol in southern PA. Price after rebate is $1.59 per qt. Watch the sunday paper inserts for their fliers. Or check in at a store periodically.

Wal-mart/Wally World usually have Castrol GTX in 5qt jugs for about $10, best price I can find w/o using any rebates.

personally i use Motorcraft 5w20 semi-syn, same price as GTX in a 5qt jug, but with proven higher grade base oil (grp III + II)

Wal-mart/Wally World usually have Castrol GTX in 5qt jugs for about $10, best price I can find w/o using any rebates.

personally i use Motorcraft 5w20 semi-syn, same price as GTX in a 5qt jug, but with proven higher grade base oil (grp III + II)

Thanks for the tip. I saw your previous couple posts about walmart.. My closest one is a little ways away thou (will go there next time, but today I was tired of running around after having stopped by Sears, Pepboys, then AAP). I'll get a 5qt jug next time, and keep the little 1qt one in the trunk for refills.

Someone mentioned on here that the storage thingie that opens into the trunk happens to be the perfect size for a 1qt oil container. I would like to add to that - it fits perfectly, a 1qt bottle, a half-full roll of paper towels, and a funnel (one of the long blue ones from Pepboys) :ylsuper: Now I don't have to worry about running out of oil ;)

So does anyone order oil online? I guess 2$/qt is good enough.. Although with the filter, that adds up to almost 20 bucks per oil change. Still better than taking it to Jiffy Lube. I would rather get :balls: than take my baby there....

Let me add to this thread by stating that I wish someone would add suregrip to another filter besides Fram. I was using the Frame on my old engine every other oil change (the mobil 1 filter was getting expensive) and it was a damn cinch to get of compared to the Mobil1. Now with my new engine I decided to just use good ol' GTX 5W20 and a WIX filter. I have heard good things about WIX filters but what do you guys think?

Oh yeah, that reminds me - how often do you change filters? Ever oil change? Every other? Let's put it to a vote ;)

afaik Wix makes good filters. Why dont you guys just use the Mazda filters? Even at the walmart sized dealer that I buy filters from they are only $6.50. Then you have no problems with mazda in the future either?

I dont think any of these filters is any better than the oem.

I change my filter EVERY oil change. Why not?

^yes Mazda OEM filter is quite good, that's all i use

I actually bought a 10-pack special from Rosenthal Mazda Arlington for $52.50, they're a very good vendor on the forum and happen to be 20 minutes from my work, so I go there to pick up stuff at their internet price A LOT :D:

Whats the OEM part no for the Mazda oil filter?

Whats the OEM part no for the Mazda oil filter?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=RX8M1000

don't know the part # off my head, but it's the one ALL older Mazda 4cyls and rotaries use.

I changed my oil this weekend for the first time at 960 mi. It was a piece of cake . . . except that some gorilla cranked the oil filter in place way too hard and I could not get it to budge. I tried both hands, with and without gloves, a strap wrench and the size F filter wrench. Nothing budged it. I have to take it to the dealer now because the outside filter casing is somewhat mangled. No leak, but I dont want to push it.

Access to the filter is not bad, but you have very little room to get leverage, so I cant remove it. It's a heck of a lot easier to get to the filter than in my miata, which requires a bit more limb contortion to get to. Getting the oil pan bolt on the RX-8 is easy.

My oil was somewhere between black and olive green, looked bad, so I'm glad I changed it. Now I'll probably change it at 2k mi too, because of the dirty filter.

Just for the record, I took my car to the dealership to have them remove the filter. Several guys tried it and they also couldn't budge it. They ended up having to use a tool - I think it was a permanent mount F-type filter wrench.

They told us that mazda uses some sort of vacuum sealing process at the factory - presumably after the engine is finished they do a pressure leak test. The filter overtightening is a common problem.

Just did my first oil change and it was a snap. I didn't even need an oil filter wrench or jack at all. Socket wrench and oil pan. Thats it. Just reached down there and started budging the filter little by little until it started really unscrewing. 25-30 minutes tops. Including waiting for all the oil to drain.... pretty good for no lift and never even touching an RX8 before.

I forgot to post here again...da-hur

I had my first oil change with the aformentioned Fumoto valve...and all I can say is WELL WORTH IT!

I didn't even need to turn the wheel to get under it, MUCH LESS put it on ramps! I've never been so pleased with such a simple little investment! Highly recomment it...even over SureDrain, mostly because of it's lack of ANY tools to be needed.

I think i've FINALLY figured out the trick to getting the filter off without getting your engine soaked in oil. As others have said, wrap a towel or something that can absorb the oil around the filter and loosen it up. Right before it comes off, allow the towel to absorb a great amount of the oil. Poking a hole or not, you WILL have some oil that still comes out.

After that it's simple...carefully removed the oil-soaked towel, then remove the filter and voala! simple oil change in less than 15 minutes!

I couldn't have been more pleased.

I did an oil change on my 07 rx8 yesterday, the second in the cars life, at 7000 miles. The filter is in an...odd position, but I managed to twist it just enough to get it going barehanded. I let it cool for about 30 minutes, to let the oil settle in the pan as well. My arms are long enough (I'm 6'3") that if I just lay on my back I can look through the wheel spokes and reach the drain plug with my right arm extended. THe bolt came off smooothly and easily, along with the crush ring, which I reused, but will replace at 10k miles along with a magnetic (or more magnetic I should say) drain plug. Filled up with 3.7-4qt's of castrol 20 weight and it settled just at the top of the 'full' dipstick mark.

I've never had a car where fresh oil makes so much difference in the sound and vibration of the engine, its crazy. I drove to Montreal on the last batch, but damn, it feels like I poured melted butter in there. :rofl:

oh yah, rotated all four tires, which was fucking fun. not. :)

great...

Filled up with 3.7-4qt's of castrol 20 weight and it settled just at the top of the 'full' dipstick mark.
HINT: If you raise the left side of the car (or lower the right side of the car when the wheel is off) you will drain nearly an additional qt of oil from the engine. More oil out=more fresh oil in, and when the total capacity of the system is about 7 qts, it's important to get as much old oil out as reasonably possible.

HINT: If you raise the left side of the car (or lower the right side of the car when the wheel is off) you will drain nearly an additional qt of oil from the engine. More oil out=more fresh oil in, and when the total capacity of the system is about 7 qts, it's important to get as much old oil out as reasonably possible.

I have been doing my own oil change since i got the car last year and use that tip that swoope wrote about before... i usually get close to 5 quarts out and one time almost 5.5... much better than the 3.5-4 a dealer would get and 3 qts are bad oil

I have only used OEM filters and change them every time... i think wix is good too though

I used the Mobil1 110 filter, not the 101. Next time, I will jack up, or park on a steep driveway on the left side to get a full 5 quarts. Since that is the amount in the Castrol jug to begin with. :)

if i get the fumoto drain valve, do i not need to get a cruch washer/drain plug gasket?

if i get the fumoto drain valve, do i not need to get a cruch washer/drain plug gasket?

nope, the fumoto valve comes with a fiberboard crush washer, and once you install the valve, you'll never need to replace a crush washer every time you change oil! one less thing to worry about!

have you tried looking online?

is this what i need


F-106 Regular Valve & Adaptor ADL106

Yes, You'll need the F106 & ADL106.

^^ wow, thats the most helpful response ever....

Well, you know, ask a dumb question, get a dumb answer.

ill make sure to type ''smart asses need not reply'' after all of my questions in the future

That might not be a bad idea, although another approach for success would be just not asking dumb questions to begin with.

i don't want to spend $30 on the drain valve so im just gonna get some crush washers

where can I find the crush washers at?



look at the name of the thread, if not in this thread where should i post?

how about an auto parts store, or the dealership. or you could order them online..

you could reuse the one you have..:wallbash:

beers :beer:

just go to a mazda dealership for the crush washers.. I get mine there when i pick up a filter

is there some kinda trick to getting the oil plug screw out? lefty lucy righty tighty?

is there some kinda trick to getting the oil plug screw out? lefty lucy righty tighty?

lefty loosy, righty tighty, yes. :Eyecrazy:

damn thing will not give.........grrrrrr

first time changing oil? in that case use a breaker bar to jar it loose

Just remember if you are not looking at it from straight on that the directions are reversed, that messed me up the first time.

ok got the plug off and now I think I know why it was so difficult to get off......the stealership must have torqued the hell out of the plug and not put a crush washer on there when they changed it last.... I searched the oil pan and didn't find a washer so it's possible they didn't replace it with the last oil change, wouldn't it have leaked without the washer?

LOL yes first time changing the oil myself.... that obvious huh

Now, I don't know if I should wait til bf calls and have him pick up washer this evening ( which means I'd be stuck )or do the same thing the stealership did and put it back on and watch it for leaks?

Probably tight because whoever did it last, and left the washer off, just kept tightening it to stop the ooze.

It would really be better to wait til you have a washer. If you did what the stealership did, you'll also have to overtighten it. Oil pan threads are not made of tough material that can take much of that. Better to be stuck for an afternoon than to risk stripping the hole.

Ken

ok got the plug off and now I think I know why it was so difficult to get off......the stealership must have torqued the hell out of the plug and not put a crush washer on there when they changed it last.... I searched the oil pan and didn't find a washer so it's possible they didn't replace it with the last oil change, wouldn't it have leaked without the washer?

should get the Fumoto drain valve that has been mentioned in this thread. once you put one on you'll never have to worry about this every again :D

thanks for the info, I'll be sure to pick up one this evening!

You know what really grinds my gears...?

The fact that the damn oil filter is positioned so that when you unscrew it, oil spills out. Gravity works Mazda! :mad: I've gotten better at it. Stuffing rags all around it and just unscrewing quickly.... but still seems like a crappy design.:(

yeah it's a crappy design... I let mine set all day after taking the plug out.... it's still draining LOL waiting for drain valve/washer to get here. I stuffed rags around my filter when I took it off and the oil spill was minimal.

For the oil filter, I just position my drain pan below the filter, wrap some paper towels around the base and unscrew. The towels catch the bulk of the oil and the pan makes sure I don't leave a mess on the driveway.

K&N model HP-1008
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1008

K&N oil filters have a nut welded to the bottom (or top in the RX-8's case); No filter wrench needed.

PS: Do not use Fram filters.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

For the oil filter, I just position my drain pan below the filter, wrap some paper towels around the base and unscrew. The towels catch the bulk of the oil and the pan makes sure I don't leave a mess on the driveway.I do the same. I've learned to make do.... But thats not the point.:spank:

K&N model HP-1008
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1008

K&N oil filters have a nut welded to the bottom (or top in the RX-8's case); No filter wrench needed.

PS: Do not use Fram filters.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

K&N oil filters are crap too.

For the oil filter, I just position my drain pan below the filter, wrap some paper towels around the base and unscrew. The towels catch the bulk of the oil and the pan makes sure I don't leave a mess on the driveway.

For me, I just buy a can of electric cleaner, Replace oil filter, then spray the crap outa it to clean all the junk.

nice and clean

^= Nothing wrong with gettin' down and dirty :lol2:

I have a question about the coherence:

Shouldn't I firstly remove the plug and let the oil drain and only after then remove the oil filter or with RX-8 is it a little bit different or maybe there is no difference?


I have already twice changed oil that way like i said.

I have a question about the coherence:

Shouldn't I firstly remove the plug and let the oil drain and only after then remove the oil filter or with RX-8 is it a little bit different or maybe there is no difference?


I have already twice changed oil that way like i said.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=90879&highlight=oil

read this,,

and the filter is going to make a bit of a mess whatever you do..

beers :beer:

For me, I just buy a can of electric cleaner, Replace oil filter, then spray the crap outa it to clean all the junk.

nice and clean

if you invert the filter as soon as it is off the threads and lift it out this way you don't spill any oil over anything in the first place .....

It is interesting, that firstly you must remove the oil filter but actually i think there is no difference what you do firstly.
I have changed oil on my ex-Audi, and if I would firstly remove the oil filter, then all the oil would came out from the oil filter input.

I was just thinking wich version is cleaner? :)

It is interesting, that firstly you must remove the oil filter but actually i think there is no difference what you do firstly.
I have changed oil on my ex-Audi, and if I would firstly remove the oil filter, then all the oil would came out from the oil filter input.

I was just thinking wich version is cleaner? :)

if you drain the oil first or take of the filter first it is the same..


you can punch a hole in it if you like.. still.. the same. i have done it all. but what do i know.

beers :beer:

Thanks for answer, now i will know :D

:beerchug:

my oil filter on my 8 is too tight and i cant remove it, ive tried all i can think of the, i have the k&n filter with the nut on it but it stripped so then i bought a filter wrench that looked like pliers and all the did was crush the filter, are there any other products out there that i can use and a where to buy them at would greatly be appreciated also thanks

try using a kitchen towel around the filter and turn it .. or use a wrap wrench

i bought some mechanic gloves that have the grip on the hands and still no luck so i dont think the kitchen towel will work.. and i dont know what a wrap wrench is, but just the name im guessing it wraps around the oil filter and if that is the case i already tried that, it was the pliers i was referring to in my previous reply

If it's on that tight it was probably cross-threaded at the last oil change.. You should probably bring it to the dealer...

i highly doubt that is the case since i was the that put it on and i when i did it went on smoothly and without a hitch

I used wrap-wrench on all my oil filters with no issues.
The thing wraps around the filter until the square rod touches the filter. At that point you put a screw driver throught the hole at the end of the square rod and twist that thing till it tightens up and dent the filter and finally rotates the filter so it comes out.

Just don't do it the wrong direction.

where can i buy one of those at?

where can i buy one of those at?
Strap wrenches can be had at Sears and probably most stores selling plumbing tools. Sears has several models.

Here's the web page:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?vName=Tools&keyword=strap+wrench&sLevel=0

This is the one I use. It crushes the oil filter if the bugger is too stubborn. So there is no way it can't have grip on the filter.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999806000P?vName=Tools&keyword=strap+wrench

I always use the K&N Oil Filters because they have a nut welded to the end.
This K&N model fits the RX-8: HP-1008

The bolt on the top of the filter is wonderful.

I always use the K&N Oil Filters because they have a nut welded to the end.
This K&N model fits the RX-8: HP-1008

The bolt on the top of the filter is wonderful.

For those of you in Canada, you can get an oil filter wrench at Canadian Tire -- look for the Super Graphite #5 wrench beside the oil filters. I just sat there trying them all till one fit 'cause it was impossible to get a "type F" here in Canada and no dealership would sell them.

I always use the K&N Oil Filters because they have a nut welded to the end.
This K&N model fits the RX-8: HP-1008

The bolt on the top of the filter is wonderful.

1010 fits too, its just that 1010 is a *taller* version of the 1008.

but I cant use 1010, cuz I have the Oil filter sandwich, it wont fit.

So I removed the filter, jacked up the car, only to find that whoever put the drain plu on last must have used an air wrench. The thing just will not budge! Any advice?

Use a 1/2" breaker bar and a 6-point socket. Make sure you are applying force in the counterclockwise direction.

option B is you hammer a screwdriver through it, grab onto the handle and pull with all your might. Then the seal should be broken and you can go about your day.

FYI in the FSM it says to tighten it with a wrench then on the last turn do it by hand the best you can. I imagine they say that so that you don't over torque it and run into problems.

FYI in the FSM it says to tighten it with a wrench then on the last turn do it by hand the best you can. I imagine they say that so that you don't over torque it and run into problems.
I think they say that so that the filter does not bottom out on the metal rim versus the rubber 'O' ring. Metal on metal doesn't seal very well.

o crap it's 3.7? I thought it was 5.7!!

o crap it's 3.7? I thought it was 5.7!!BWAHAHAHAHA!:mdrmed:


But youve gotta be kidding. because I dont think 5.7 will even fit....?

Make sure to properly close the trunk after removing the jack.

I did not have power to start the engine after the oil change.:lol: :lol: