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E-Shaft nut - how do you get it off !!!!!

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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 08:17 PM
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E-Shaft nut - how do you get it off !!!!!

help - Getting a bit frustrated trying to get the E-shaft nut off . Anyone got any tips .
Also : How do you lock the shft to stop it turning ?
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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For stubborn parts that are attached to things that move, impact guns work well. Dunno if you can use it on that particular bolt or not though...
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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Cheers but I don't have one . Even if I did I very much doubt it would fit as the front x-member is in the way .
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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the shop who did my FW install had to use Impact, cuz when your car is on a lift its almost impossible to take it off with bare hands. Even with a 400 lbs impact power it took him about 30 seconds of *papapapapapaPAPAPAPAPAPAPAPAPA* to get it loose. >_<

Impact will make this job 10000000000000000000 times easier,
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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I had a helper keep the wheel from turning with a huge screwdriver lodged against the exhaust manifold and flywheel teeth while I reefed on a breaker bar with my foot. It took a bit of effort but I have used this technique a few times and it always works.
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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are we talking about the flywheel nut or the nut on the front of the e-shaft that the pulley attaches to?

Yeah, to do the job easily you need a gun with 650+ ft-lbs of torque, should come off instantly. Anything less will take some time, even with the breaker bar and help sometimes it will approach impossible depending on how long your breaker bar is
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:24 PM
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I figured he meant flywheel nut as the front of the shaft has a really tight bolt that is a bitch to remove, too. Just ask MM. I didn't have to use a torch when I did mine. Just ingenuity.
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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Sorry - was talking about the front bolt - not FW bolt .
Do you have to take the starter motor off and lock the FW with a screwdriver ?
Or is there some other way to lock the engine ?

Need to replace front seal . I hope this is my mystery oil leak (that only appears on track days) .

Last edited by Brettus; Aug 12, 2007 at 05:32 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:36 PM
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That bolt is VERY tight, like 280 lbs. Why not just put the tranny in 6th gear, pull the e-brake tight(or have someone push the brake pedal as hard as they can) and get busy?
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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Tried someting similar in 1st gear but you are right - 6th would have been better . I need to get a long extension bar I think .
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Your thinking was reverse on the 1st gear issue, but I am glad you understand what I was saying. Yes, 280 lbs. is a lot and you'll need a breaker bar. Imagine the time I had getting mine off by myself while my engine was on the stand getting torn down. I succeeded, though.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 12:45 AM
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Finally got the bastard off today .
when I torque it back up should I put loctite on it or never seize ?
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Finally got the bastard off today .
when I torque it back up should I put loctite on it or never seize ?
how did you get it off.. and i think neither..


beers
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:18 AM
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took off the starter motor and jamed a crowbar through hole in my ACT flywheel then swung on it with a 3 foot bar . Can't believe how tight that m'fr was !
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
took off the starter motor and jamed a crowbar through hole in my ACT flywheel then swung on it with a 3 foot bar . Can't believe how tight that m'fr was !

wow,

your are the bomb.. big, big *****.. you win.

i am going with impact wrench...

btw, oil leak fixed?

beers
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:26 AM
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hope to go to track tomorrow - will know after that if it is fixed or not . The old seal was a couple of mm larger inside diameter than the new one . fingers crossed .
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
hope to go to track tomorrow - will know after that if it is fixed or not . The old seal was a couple of mm larger inside diameter than the new one . fingers crossed .
good luck,

send me an email with the outcome...

btw,, have big big fun. jealous.

all is quiet on the home front.

beers
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:35 AM
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thanks .
No more news about secret squirrel stuff ?
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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you're suppose to use a special toothed piece tool that bolts to the back of the engine and engages the flywheel starter teeth to keep it from turning, $23 from Mazdatrix



using your trans is just asking for expensive problems down the road

Last edited by TeamRX8; Sep 6, 2007 at 01:48 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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....and if the tranny is still on the engine?
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 02:01 PM
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better to unbolt it and move it back an inch rather than unbolting and removing it in whole to replace the broken internal parts
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 02:30 PM
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I figured if I was able to use a breaker bar while my engine was on the stand there HAS to be an easier way while the engine is still in the car. Other than the use of an impact gun, I don't think the tranny will have a problem dealing with a person exerting 280 lbs. of torque on the bolt. Your idea is ultimately the safest one, though.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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If you have the ACT flywheel - those holes are pretty handy ..... Didn't damage anything .
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:35 PM
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So you took the front pulley off? I sure hope you didn't drop the spacer off the needle bearings....
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by R.P.M.
So you took the front pulley off? I sure hope you didn't drop the spacer off the needle bearings....
did not notice anything like that - I'm sure I would have noticed if someting had fallen out .....
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