Well after pouring over carputer threads for the last few days i've decided im going to go ahead and start ordering components. I've also decided that I want to go with the factory housing despite the cost and I will purchase through MazdaParts:
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=50B0000-1155120408

The biggest hurdle for me will be replacing the factory LCD screen and getting the tilt/open to work so if anyone has experience with this or any advice please feel free to add it.

It will probably be sometime before the unit arrives but I plan to update this thread as I go.

If you are going to replace the factory Nav screen, why not just get the Nav housing (without screen), and go aftermarket for a touchscreen. The Nav housing is under $300.00, and an aftermarket toushcreen is more reasonably priced as well!

G/L and take lotsa pics:) I'm going to when mine gets put together.

Ed

Unfortunatly I can't seem to find just the Nav Housing. If I could I would go that route as I plan to replace the screen regardless.

If anyone has suggestions on finding a Nav Housing please let me know asap.

Well already hitting a hurdle in that I can't find a decent enclosure that will fit in the pass through.

It's on their site... ?

http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=5250000-1159943707

Yeah I am aware of that housing as well but I want an actual factory one with open/tilt controls.

Ok well I have found two cases that should fit into the pass through:

Travla C134 Mini-ITX Case (EPIA M, SP13000)
http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ENC%2D004&Show=TechSpecs

Travla C156 Case - Black
http://www.mini-itx.com/store/?c=3#p1151

What kind of problems am I going to run into by going with such a small enclosure? Anyone have any recommendations?

If you are putting standard mini-ITX based components into that tiny case, you should be fine. They are made for small confines and can put up with the lack of ventilation and heat.

The same should apply to a laptop style optical drive (if you are using one).

Ed

I think im just going to go ahead and order a prebuilt loaded up C134 from mp3car.com:
http://store.mp3car.com/MP3Car_Custom_Car_Computer_C134_p/ccc-002.htm

Anyone see any problems with this or suggest alternatives?

Update: I've decided to go with an AOpen Mini PC. A bit more costly but in the end it will make the install and functionality much better.

I plan on placing the order for the PC tomorrow for $718 with the following specs:

Pandora MP945-D Mini PC (RoHS) (RoHS) (Black)
- Intel® Core™ Duo Processor T2350 (1.86GHz / 2MB L2 / 533MHz)
- DDR2-667 SODIMM 1.0 GB
- 100GB 2.5" SATA 7200RPM Hard Drive
- Slim 24x24x24x8 CD-ReWritable Drive + DVD Combo (Slot Loading)
- Onboard Video
- DOS Format
- Built-in Wireless 802.11B/G Option MiniPCI AOP (Windows Support Only)

Comments?

The Nav Housing has been ordered as well as the Car2PC connector. Next on the list is to get a Carnetix Power supply, monitor, GPS, and bluetooth.

I'm not sure what you really want to do with the PC but have you thought of using a "thin client" with windows CE the you could run an ext cd drive and hard drive thru usb.
They work well with touch screen and take up VERY little space....no moving parts.

I think you will be the first to actually use the stock housing. Please post pics as you do the install...

Thanks

n2hcky: I wanted something pre-built that was as small as I could get. Also a bonus that I can easily remove the PC for home use. If you have some suggestions/links I would explore other ideas but I didn't want to get into building something myself. (btw thin clients such as?)

Jeff: I will absolutely take pics as I go. I do believe there are a few others who have gone this route though.

n2hcky: I wanted something pre-built that was as small as I could get. Also a bonus that I can easily remove the PC for home use. If you have some suggestions/links I would explore other ideas but I didn't want to get into building something myself. (btw thin clients such as?)

There are lots to chose from but this is what we use for business terminals.
https://www.thinclientcentral.com/products/productpage.asp?pid=6636

n2hcky: That would have almost been a good option for me but the case is just a touch too large to fit into the pass through.

Most parts are ordered however I am still unsure how im going to get Satellite radio into the unit. Anyone have advice?

i have done the Car Pc, it has been a long journey of set backs, but ive reached the goal and im ready to offer helping advice. Very sattisfied with it. tilt and open button works but u have to do a bit of mod on the oem screen, (easy mods) however the point is u need the original parts... u can ask me for any advice here or PM.

getting the buttons to work is 1 thing, but getting it to turn on automatically is another issue, without which, the housing may open and close with buttons, but to get it 'on' u would have to use a remote control or a custom button just to turn it on which will loose some points in cool factor. u would want to open and power on with 1 button. this is a lil more tricky but doable.

in the meanwhile,
u can down load a short video clip of the monitor and buttons in action

Download video clip (http://www.malaysianproperties.biz/MISC/MOV.mp3)

after download pls rename the extension to ".3gp"

P/S beware of the PC unit u plan to order...
if u r planning to fit a single din size into the rear seat arm rest... the depth of the unit should not exceed 7.5inch...

I'm mostly concerned about getting it to automatically open/close with on/off of the vehicle as well as to open to it's last position. Where you able to get this to work just like the factory unit? (steps you had to go through would be much appreiated)

CPU depth = 6.5" should be good :)

For whatever reason im not able to open your video.

yes i was. pls see the video and it will answer your questions

or just look at this;
http://www.malaysianproperties.biz/misc/screen.gif

before i go tru the steps, may i know if ur car came with the navi system?

Mine did not come with Factory Nav.

Update:
Everything has arrived and this week I will begin the process of installing the touch screen into the housing and figuring out how to get the housing powered with open/tilt functioning.

The force is strong in you young Jedi :) Good luck you have a long road ahead of you.

P.S

I've seen a few threads on installing screen in factory nav housing here

This link (http://www.geocities.com/mavros_piravlos/rx8naviscreen/naviscreen.htm) helped me alot for fitting the touchscreen into the factory NAV hood. Its in Greek, but has alot of pics to show what you will have to do to fit a 7" screen. I have been running my CarPC for almost a year and a half now with no issues at all. For the first couple of months I had the computer hibernate when i turned the key off but the 1 min boot up was killing me so i set it go into standyby and have had no issues with the battery. My power supply will turn it off if the battery drops below a certain voltage. I am using XMPCR for sat radio as it was USB and easy to intergrate. Also I hard wired an ElmScan 5 OBDII and it has worked flawlessly. Also, if you haven't set your mind to a specific front end yet, I suggest looking into Streetdeck. It is alittle pricey (200$), but it has given me the abiltity to seemlessly tie everything together on the touchscreen. It comes with Microsoft Mappoint for the GPS. And if you plan on getting broadband in the car, you can overlay imagery over the map for a nice wow factor. Plus you can totally customize the look and the buttons of the skin to suit you. I tried the free frontends but they didnt seem to tie everything together as much as i liked. Good luck with the install and i will gladly help if i can.

Install Day 1:

Well day one of install was a complete bust. I did learn how to take everything apart but ugh what a waste. I don't think I quite understood just how difficult its going to be to get it all done. I also managed to scuff up some of the plastic trim which sucks.

I ran into a problem going from my 8 guage battery to the carnetix as it's only using 16 guage wiring. Ugh.

Now where to mount the carnetix? I haven't even begun looking at finding an ignition line for it. The best place I can think of putting it is just to the right of where the nav housing sits while closed, seems to be just enough space but then i'd have to get my power/ground up there, ignition and then run power to the pass through for the PC. Ugh.

On the plus side I think I have figured out the Nav open/tilt. I'm going to keep the original boards and run power to what I hope is the correct pin. Unfortunatly I was unable to find out just how much juice this board wants so im hoping I don't fry everything.

I won't get another chance to tinker more till tuesday but I have the rest of that week off work and I hope to get it all done and working just how I want.

I removed the OEM screen and kept the control board. I was then able to fit in the control board with the after market VGA touch screen. It was a tight fit but I managed. I put a piece of cardboard between the two board to avoid contact.
I guess it was easier for me since the car came with the navigation installed

Then you have to calibrate it
From Guino:
" leave the nav-panel (dash) unscrewed, then remove the black gear from the hole/opening on the left side of it (when you're facing it as it would be installed). Then rurn the key, you'll see the pin rotating in the direction of closing the screen, then it will stop. Turn the key off and place the gear back on it. As long as the cable is not getting caught and that the nav pod has full movement (same range as with the OEM screen), it should open and close normally.. otherwise you'll see it try to open, then move a bit forward and the tilt controls won't work. In most cases this is a cable/deflection issue... if not, you can repeat the process and try to rotate the pin a little bit to one side or another before placing the black gear piece back in place. I've spent countless hours figuring this stuff out.. in any case, make sure the nav pod is horizontal and that it is free to move like with the oem screen, it seems the circuitry does calibrate itself, by trying to close the screen completely first, and then working from the point forward. So just make sure the screen is fully closed when you place the black gear in place." Basically Remove the gear on the motor and move it forward/backwards one tooth until it works.

How's your progress?

Tuesday Update:
Spent most of the day working on the Nav Housing. Basically it looks like most people who have undertaken this project went with a Xenarc screen which from what I can tell is a fair bit smaller. I went with the lilliput transreflective and it's going to be a really pain to get this all together.

I copied the greek instructions and cut out the bracket which will keep the LCD in place but I have found no way to really secure it yet from moving back and forth. This lilli screen also has a different IR reciver which is going to be a huge pain to mount somewhere.

Also the monitor VGA cable comes with a braid of 5 different output cables and im going to need to cut off these other ones as they wont fit in the housing. Can anyone confirm I just just cut the ends and tape them up with no ill effects?

How's your progress again?

***Subscribing***

I'm taking on a similar project. Found an OEM Navigation system on eBay for cheap.

Any project details? Any pics?

how will you connect the sound system with the carputer?

Sorry for the lack of updates. I was hoping to have the project finished before moving into my new place however it had to be put on hold. I won't be able to get back to it for another week or two.

titaniumgr3y: Car2PC adapter

Hey Pat,

Thought I'd give you a heads up in case you didn't already know. There is an issue with the Maz Car2PC adapter with the back button on steering wheel. I've contacted indash.org and they sent me replacement chip to update the firmware.

Bad news is after installing the replacement chip the Car2PC adapter didn't work period had to place the orginal chip back in to get sound. I've contacted indash they said they are aware of the issue with new firmware chip and will send a new one out after they complete their testing.

Good luck with the install, keep us posted :)

Anybody knows how to get the Nav motor to work? I bought mine without the harness or cable. I got the circuit diagram for a DIY but doesnt know which of the pins on the Nav to connect to.

Kimota thanks for the heads up, please keep me posted if you don't mind.

XMatrix: Probably will be another week before I tackle that problem but if I figure it out i'll let you know.

did any of you figure out where to tap the video output for the factory navigation system so it can be wired to an aux input (rca) in the new monitor...thats the dilemma i'm coming up with right now.


thanks
Keith

I got mine to fit in the pass through.

http://rx8.no-ip.org/carputer/pcrevisions1/IMG_1510.JPG

http://rx8.no-ip.org/carputer/IMG_0690.JPG

I got mine to fit in the pass through.

http://rx8.no-ip.org/carputer/pcrevisions1/IMG_1510.JPG

http://rx8.no-ip.org/carputer/IMG_0690.JPG


Nice! but then again you know i like yours! any clue with the rca conversion?

ecpilotp51: can't help you with that one, I don't have a factory nav :(

Hi Pat, how's the circuit board to connect and control the motor functions? I have soldered the components onto a PCB. Now is just ready to disassemble my Nav screen. Saw from another thread that I have to remove the 2 original boards and just replace my own PCB inside and connect up everything.

Seems simple but can anyone confirm? Because the 2 buttons, open and tilt is already soldered to the original boards. Should I desolder and remove the buttons?

No progress. Sorry Matrix. I'll post as soon as I get back to work on it.

Bump, any progress Pat?

Sorry still haven't had time to get back to it. I'll update as soon as I can.

how do u fit ur nav holder....
i tried to replace my factory upper centre panel with the Retractable LCD Holder (from mazdaparts)...i think itz basicly same thing as ur head unit...but it just won't fit.... i mean... the A clips just won't go down...
any special ways of how i install it?!

Some people say they had to trim off one of the pins. Im case I just gave it a firm tap and mine went into place

icic...nvm my piece was different from urs...
but thx anywayz!

:fingersx:

UPDATE:
After basically giving up on my install and being very lazy I finally decided to bite the bullet and find someone to do finish it for me.

I'll be taking in car in tomorrow and hopefully be getting this finished once and for all.

I will start a new thread when it's completed and update this with any interesting happenings during the install.

Thanks for the update Pat. Good luck wrapping it up. I hope it turns out well.

sounds cool. i'd like to see when you get it done too.

To Rotary Rasp, damn yours looks nice.

bah i was hoping for pix of how you wired it for power for all the components :)

I have the factor motorized NAV hood with LCD. I don't have the rest of the nav system.. I've been struggling with trying to get the hood to open and retract properly. I'm close, since I have the buttons lighting up with dimmer, the LCD comes on, and when I press open (after manually opening the hood) it motors closed. I can't seem to figure out the "remember last position" and the open and tilt functions. I'm using all of the factory boards and wiring that came with the dash hood assembly. Can someone clue me in on what wires are what on the two plugs on the back of the hood unit. Thanks!!

My housing was finally completed today. Everything works exactly like factory. Pics to follow and actual install hopefully in the next few weeks.

Pics:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/JohnnySky/IMG_2936Medium.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/JohnnySky/IMG_2945Medium.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/JohnnySky/IMG_2951Medium.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/JohnnySky/IMG_2954Medium.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/JohnnySky/IMG_2956Medium.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/JohnnySky/IMG_2960Medium.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y125/JohnnySky/IMG_2963Medium.jpg

Patinthehat,

Can you please share how you got the Tilt Open buttons to work with the original board. I still get autoclose and that's about it.

Thanks, Bill J.

Wildman, are you saying your screen will only close with the button but not open? If so, your screen has become uncalibrated. I found the easiest way to fix this without painstakingly trying it literally one gear tooth at a time is to take it apart and take the back cover off the screen (the curved piece). Unplug the three wire (orange and 2 grey) connector from the gear and power it up (no need to put it back together yet) press the open button a few times until the gear turns more than just a single "click". Wait until it stops turning and then put the white connector back in. Now press the open button a few times and it should spin the full range and stop properly. The last time you press open, take notice of the black gear outside the rest of the screen housing. If the gear spins clockwise and stops, the screen is in the up position. Put it back together with the screen all the way up now WITHOUT letting that gear spin, or else it will throw off the voltage on the trimpot and you'll have to start over. Hope this helps! :)

I marked my gears and didn't have to worry about screen calibration. Sorry I can't be of help :( Hopefully Chainu's response was helpful.

Hey,

Thanks for the reply. I tried the calibration thing and I still don't have all of the wires I need hooked up, apparently, 'cause things don't work as expeted. I have the main ground and power hooked up, plus the IGN and the ILLUM positive and negative. The screen still won't pop up and retract.

Since I love to try to crack things on my own, I went ahead and taught myself how to program a microcontroller chip (no small feat, since I'm a mechanical engineer). I bought a Basic Stamp 2 chip, which takes 6-15V DC, and has a programming language much like the old BASIC. I've created a program that opens the screen with the open button, tilts about 5 degrees on each press of the tilt button, closes the screen on a second press to the open button, and turns on the LCD power upon open. All this is packed onto a small circuit board, about 2" x 4" and includes a double acting relay to get the open close to work. Essentially I took the hard controller diagram, found elsewhere in the forumn, and added the microcontroller for inputs and out. I'm using the variable resistor build into the motor drive. It's a much cleaner install, and leaves a lot more room for the LCD. I've got a Xenarc 700tsv right now, and it's pretty snug. There are limitless possibilites once you start getting into it. I'll post some pics once I get thinks looking finished.

I still wouldn't mind figuring out the OEM controller board. Pat, can you tell me which wires you have hooked up??

Later

Sounds exactly like what I am doing!
(http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=140504&page=2 posts #30 and #39)
Glad to hear you're learning the world of microcontrollers. Let me know if you need any help. Later in that same thread I have a diagram that shows all of the wires that go to the OEM board. I'm sure that all that is needed for motor control are pins 1O,1P,and 1Q, as that's what I used to take voltages and create my project from, and it opened/closed/tilted and even saved the position if the ACC wire was disconnected just fine. How are you taking care of the illumination and dimming of the buttons/screen? I think I've got it figured out but haven't tested it in the car yet. Also, is the 700tsv a pretty decent monitor? I really want a transflective, but don't want to spend that much :(

I just bought a used one off ebay but im still waiting for the cable from mp3carforum. Will let you know if its good when it comes so i can hook it up

Chainu...

Yes, I kinda got the idea from your thread, but I'm not nearly as advanced as you. I did use some of your code for guidance.

Thanks

Chainu127

Button Illum. - I'm using 12V into the swith power, I connected to the ashtray pulsed dimmer line, and the other, switched wire, I dropped to 5 V with a resistor and I'm reading that pushbutton with one of the inputs onthe microP. I did this for each of the two pins. When U turn on the lights, it puts 12V to the center wire anyway and the pulsed dimmer to the other one. It works perfect, and dims with the rest of the cabin lights. I used too small of transistors for the switched for open and closed, and they fried. I'm now tinkering with slowing the motor down, since 12V is too fast on both open and tilt. 9V worked pretty well.

Later.....

I have a problem.... I have the OEM nav system and I replace the LCD witha better one but the tilt functione does not work.... I have the two bords from the old nav Lcd... can you guys help me?

I managed to make it run...open/close... and lights... but no tilt and no memory :(

Finally FINALLY going to be finishing my install. Marked for next saturday. I'll probably start a new thread to show off the finished product.

Whoa! Blast from the past Pat! I thought you gave up!?! Can't wait to see...

I found that if I had ACC power connected, as well as the Battery + Connected, that Open worked (one touch Open), Tilt worked, and Memory worked. None of these functions worked without the ACC pin being powered when I tried it last night. I noticed without the ACC power, when the hood is closed, and you press 'Open' there is a little attempted movement, then it stops. Hook up ACC, and all will be good.

My 8 has no factory Nav, yet my OEM Nav Hood is now fully functional (OEM motion wise) and fully illuminated by spending $7 on Pins and heat shrink tube.

Cheers

Deano

Ok well the install is pretty much done however i've run into a MAJOR problem. I purchased the Car2PC to integrate with my head unit however I cannot get the head unit to regonize the Car2PC at all. I am not able to get the EX1 (aux?) that everyone else is able to bring up. It's as if the Car2PC isn't connected at all :(

Sounds like a radio firmware incompatibility. For Car2PC you must have radio firmware v9.55 or later , but v10.1 and v9.81 don't work. To check your firmware on the radio press The text button/knob and preset #1 at the same time. Sadly there's not much you can do about it if that is the case except get a different radio. You could use another method of getting the sound in (AuxMod, DIY method, maybe PIE adapter, not sure if that has firmware issues) but Car2PC is the only one with steering wheel controls I believe. Sorry man :(

Definitely sounds like firmware issue.. if you wanted to you could send your radio unit to have the firmware flashed.

I just plugged it into the back of my head unit and straight into my carpc, all went well.

My head unit firmware is 9.82. I had checked it before ordering the Car2PC and according to their website it should work with that version.

Does the USB need to be hooked up in order for it to work? It's possible something went wrong during my install with the USB cable or it not getting power from the hub. I was under the impression it should still go to EX1 without it though...

I also have had no response from the Car2PC support via email or their forums. Sigh.

How do u get the Rear view Cam to auto display on the screen when u put it in reverse gear?

How do u get the Rear view Cam to auto display on the screen when u put it in reverse gear?

its a function of the screen itself. it has an rca input that when it reads a signal from that input automatically switches to that channel...this is done simply by attaching the camera to this video input and the positive lead of the reverse lights...this will turn the camera on thus telling the screen to switch over.