Didn't see any reference to the motor mounts in the sticky index, so I figured I'd share my experience today replacing my motor mounts... I realize that most people who need new mounts have already had them replaced by the dealer.... but, I hate the dealer, and I got all 3 upgrade parts for $150 shipped, so I said what the heck... I have also replaced my starter with the new more powerful one, and I did the coil packs yesterday. Again, I got all these parts new, off of eBay, nice and cheap and no dealer B.S.

You will need a cherry picker engine lift for best results and safety.
There are three official parts as part of the TSB, the right and left motor mounts (made with a new style of rubber) and the right side engine bracket (it has a heat shield to protect the mount from excess manifold heat).

Simply jack your car up on the front, put your jack stands in place on the frame rails, and remove the front wheels.

Now remove the strut tower brace to allow access for the cherry picker hook on the main engine lift eyelet. Drop your cherry picker in there, hook in, and take some of the weight of the motor off of the frame (not too much!).

Unbolt the brake line support bracket (one 10mm bolt per side) to make your life a TON easier.

Now follow the TSB's instructions on the order of removal of the associated bolts...
Note, that the sheet talks about the bolts labled (2) on the driver's side, that in fact, do NOT need to be removed...as I found out... the ones labled (2) on the passenger side however, DO get pulled, so the whole bracket can come out and replaced.

Once all the bolts are removed on both sides of the car, now you can carefully raise the engine further with the cherry picker and note that you will need to get it at least high enough to clear the motor mounts of their frame mounted studs.

Now just pull out each motor mount - they will just be sitting there waiting for you...nothing special here.

Now pull all the 17mm bolts holding on the right side bracket and fenagle the bracket out of the suspension arms etc...

Replace the bracket with the new style one, and bolt back up.

Install the new motor mounts and insert and finger tighten all three bolts/nuts
on each side.

Once all the nuts and bolts are started, you can lower the engine back down a little, but not all the way.... you just want to allow for better alignment of the bolts and parts while you torque them down.

Crank down all those 14mm bolts and nuts, and then you can lower and unhook the cherry picker.

Reinstall the brake line support bolts.

Reinstall the wheels.

Drop car, test drive and notice less vibration...

To check before and after vibration (in 6sp manual) just try to put the shifter in reverse without using the clutch (obviously it won't go, but feel the level of shuddering).

Cheers

-C

great write up. could you write one on how to replace coils?

Sure I can - it was really easy, shouldn't take but a few lines of text...
Thanks for the good words...

-C

most of us use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the motor one side at a time rather than a cherry picker

Nice writeup chamberlin!!!

Thanks Cromax!
Team, that would work great too with the wood blocks and jack. I had access to a picker, and never had to think about a work around...

-C

heads up, there are some new mounts from the same guy I got mine from on eBay!

cheers
-C

most of us use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the motor one side at a time rather than a cherry picker


I changed out mine yesterday using what you did. worked like a charm! heck I think it was easier than doing my fc t2 mounts.

most of us use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the motor one side at a time rather than a cherry picker

+1 on that, though using the engine lift is safer.
I usually use the jack/blocks method because I don't have a huge garage and moving the engine lift around is a PITA.

hahaha, the giant PIA heavy assed engine lift is still in my living room!!! My friend hasn't come and picked it up yet... price I pay for free tool usage!

I did the opposite. I lent my hoist to a friend and I'm hoping he'll hang on to it until I need it again!

I think that is what is going on here too ;)

very well written. =]
im too much of a newbie to attempt this by myself, afraid of doing something wrong. Today I called a dealer that is located a few minutes from my house and they want to charge me $500 just for labor :o
Do you think I should buy the motor mounts and have a mechanic install it for me?

Thanks!
I would think you should be able to get it done for much less than $500....show the mechanic this DIY...

Sorry for resurrecting this, but does anyone know where the best place to get these from is? Montgomery Mazda? Should I order the mounts shown for the '08 or '04-'07 (to go on an '04.) I assume it's the same part, as it's the same exact price ($109.62 for the R.)
Also, when was the engine bracket upgraded? I can't find it on the Mont site.
Thanks.

If you are jacking up from the bottom, would you still have to remove the strut-brace?
Does removing the Strut Brace mess up the alignment?

Why do you have to remove the wheels? Is it too hard to access the parts otherwise?

I had dealer quotes of $170 and $225 for the labor on this in case anyone is interested. I bought the parts from Rosenthal Mazda for about $180.

If you are jacking up from the bottom, would you still have to remove the strut-brace?
no.

Does removing the Strut Brace mess up the alignment?no.

Why do you have to remove the wheels?to get to the motor mounts.

Is it too hard to access the parts otherwise?yes.

I had dealer quotes of $170 and $225 for the labor on this in case anyone is interested. I bought the parts from Rosenthal Mazda for about $180.congratulations.

^Thanks for answering the questions.

^yw :)

So the parts arrived today and as it turns out, I I failed to order the new engine bracket. Is that part absolutely critical or should i just replace the mounts that I have?

And is this really a 30 minute job without a cherry picker?

It's very cold here in Illinois. My garage doesn't have heat :(

Any updates? I'm gonna do this, do i need the engine mount brackets updated as well? Whats decent price for all three mounts?

The bracket is really just a heat shield for protecting the rubber mounts, it would be nice to have it. I think I paid $150 for everything. Not much else to update, from my original posts and the posts that followed.

So the bracket is an update over what I have stock on my 04'? Sorry for the questions I have not really looked at the mounts.

So I need two of these right?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/images/P/rx8_mount.jpg

If you look in the top picture, I think the only difference is that the new aluminum bracket has the ability to have the dinky black metal heat shield tabs mounted to it... So yes it is an update over your '04, but probably not worth sweating over.

I just wonder if i should get new brackets too.

Hey Chamberlin

Where did you purchase your mounts from? That is the cheapest I have seen them?

read the first paragraph of the first post

went to a mechanic today to get some exhaust repairs done and they told me that i have bad motor mounts. they noticed it right away cause they said my idle vibrates too much. all this time i thought it was normal...u guys think its worth replacing it right away?

being that there was an official TSB for this problem, I would say yea, go ahead and change them.... the exhaust on the right side heats up th rubber too much and destroys them faster than normal. New version has better materials and a heat shield.

thanks, good to have someone confirm it

i was able to get both of my motor mounts for 80 with shipping from ebay. Im going to tackle this task this weekend. Im going to be using the jack stand + piece of wood to raise the engine up.

I can only find the 2 motor mounts on Ebay. What about the third?

this is what my right motor mount looked like. When your car starts to shake alot at idle this might be why.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/DarkKnightYohko/2009-10-24143054.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/DarkKnightYohko/2009-10-24143120.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/DarkKnightYohko/2009-10-24143131.jpg

I know i will probably get shit for this but I have been looking on ebay and other online sites for this mounts and the cheapest I've gotten is 130 each. How did u guys get both for 80? can anyone shoot me a link? I've looked for days guys.
Thanks

just gotta be lucky sometimes, also it would help if you told us if its for a at or mt.

oh yeah my bad
its a MT.

your best bet would be to check with mazmart they could get you new oem ones for a deal. Pm someone from mazmart.

i am doing polyurethane MM--they do make a difference.
OD

+1 on that, though using the engine lift is safer.
I usually use the jack/blocks method because I don't have a huge garage and moving the engine lift around is a PITA.

Can someone explain in further detail about this method of lifting engine? Anybody have any pictures of the process ? Need to replace my mounts and don't have engine lift. Thanks.

Just did mine today. It took about 1 hour and 15 minutes using simple hand tools, jackstands, and a hydraulic jack with wooden blocks. I even torqued down all nuts, bolts, and lug nuts. The TSB states labor for replacement is an hour but dealers charge 2.5 hours and they have all the lifts and power tools to make life a heck of a lot easier. They don't even have to take off the wheels because they do the work from underneath the car. What a rip off!!!:rant:

Can someone explain in further detail about this method of lifting engine? Anybody have any pictures of the process ? Need to replace my mounts and don't have engine lift. Thanks.

Im having the same Issue..im about to replace my engine mounts without a cherry picker..

just going to use jack/peice of wood method... any suggestions or tips?

Im having the same Issue..im about to replace my engine mounts without a cherry picker..

just going to use jack/peice of wood method... any suggestions or tips?
Don't drop the car on your head. :fingersx:

I was attempting this today. I got all three bolts/nuts off the drivers side mount, but the pass side, i can't get off the nut toward the front. top bolt and rear came of like a breeze. I'm damn near stripping it trying to get the socket to stay on. Any tips? other than tapping a small on, I've tried. and I PB'd the hell out if. Thanks in advance.

I was attempting this today. I got all three bolts/nuts off the drivers side mount, but the pass side, i can't get off the nut toward the front. top bolt and rear came of like a breeze. I'm damn near stripping it trying to get the socket to stay on. Any tips? other than tapping a small on, I've tried. and I PB'd the hell out if. Thanks in advance.

Have you, or can you try using a longer wrench? That few inches of mechanical advantage can make a huge difference. Idk, maybe you're already using a breaker bar(?)

cant get the breaker bar in there. I tried doing it from above, I have a long extension, and I easily got to the nut by running the ext. between the wiper fluid res. and the air pump. Downside is the ext is only 3/8 inch, so i almost broke it. I'm gonna try to pick up a 1/2 incher tomarrow, I soaked it in PB, hoping that overnight might help a little. My biggest concern, is why all of the driver's side came off without any real effort (obviously some muscle, but thats it), but just this one nut is so torqued on. I'm beginning to wonder if it twisted. Can't really tell the condition of the mount yet, but I'm thinking if it did crack, would it torque enough to give me this problem? Maybe I'm just overthinking it, and it just needs a good breaking-free. Such is my life with this car...shame I love it so much, or I'd stop caring. lol

I might be way off here, but I just did a midpipe swap and there are three bolts that do not turn. You have to get at them from the other side. Maybe you're trying to turn nuts that are just there to hold another bolt (?)

i was thinking about that too, but im pretty sure the bolt is welded, i'm checking again to be sure. thanks for the tip.

Has anyone tried the drop engineering polyurethane inserts? im interested on how these would feel on the 8.

i replaced my Mounts No Problem, easy as pie...without the Cherry Picker/hoist.....all i used was a jack with a peice of Wood =D

Pics for this DIY would be greatly appreciated.
Planning on this this on my own next time~:angel:

Pics for this DIY would be greatly appreciated.
Planning on this this on my own next time~:angel:

Nah, pics aren't necessary for this one, just read carefully - you'll see....good luck

i replaced my Mounts No Problem, easy as pie...without the Cherry Picker/hoist.....all i used was a jack with a peice of Wood =D

cool looks like i have something to do this weekend.

Hi, I've got the same viberation in my car for like last few weeks and i think its due to the engine mounts.
My question is that does it effect any other parts if i don't change it?

Ok, so now I have this problem on my 04, time to replace the mounts. But on Ebay the parts are about 3 times as expensive as this post says they were in 07. Really? That seems odd, anyone have any idea where I can get these at a reasonable price?

Ok, so now I have this problem on my 04, time to replace the mounts. But on Ebay the parts are about 3 times as expensive as this post says they were in 07. Really? That seems odd, anyone have any idea where I can get these at a reasonable price?

Mazda prices have changed dramatically over the years, Ignition coils for example used to be ~$30 MSRP now they are in $50+ range per coil

Jacking the motor up from the bottom, is there anything that needs to be disconnected prior to moving the motor itself? For example, depending on how much it needs to be moved, I can see it possibly necessary to disconnect an AEM CAI (nothing else of aftermarket significance in my case). And yes, I already see that removing the strut brace is not necessary.

For as much as it needs to be lifted (not much), there shouldn't be anything else to worry about when lifting the motor to install the mounts-

people really need to take photos when they write a DIY....

As long as you can write half-way decent, (which I can), I don't think pictures or crayon drawings are obligatory for every DIY. Read it through a few times, visualize it, and go do it. Just be happy people are willing to share their experiences for your benefit. Further, not everyone is a photographer. I have seen plenty of DIY's that are made more complicated by crappy and confusing photos, with little text to support them.

Just my 2 cents
Your DIY depends entirely on the TSB which at the very least you should have provided a link or better yet a copy in pdf format.

HERE: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/rx8/bulletin/01-021-06-1559.pdf

Without seeing the TSB diagram I can understand why people want you to post pics.

Once you have seen the TSB it is as you say pretty straight forward and not requiring pictures as you've indicated.

I'm removing the RH motor mount in order to remove the exhaust header. I'm having a real bitch of time removing the "Engine Mount Bracket-to-Engine Mount (1)" and the "Engine mount-to-front sub frame (3)"

I've had no success with a 1/2 or 3/8 breaker bars .... I've resorted to soaking the culprits in liquid wrench over night.
The mount looks fine so I'm not really wanting to apply any heat however I maybe reduced to this solution and just replace both motor mounts.

I have one cautionary note.
It is helpful to remove the brake line bracket as indicate in post #1 for access HOWEVER....
You must be careful not to crimp or bend the metal brake line .... I came dangerously close to this when using the 1/2" breaker bar (johnson bar)

Would appreciate any assistance on removing those stubborn bolts.

I am having the same problem, I can't get bolt 1 off. The rubber just twist in place along with the bolt. I've used breaker bars, even my big air compressor wouldn't take it off. Going to try soaking them in liquid wrench, if that doesn't work, I'm just going to cut through the rubber to get them off. My mounts must have been bad if I can get the rubber to flex that much. The rubber is so soft I can almost get a half turn on bolt 1 but of course since the rubber is moving with it the bolt isn't really spinning. I've never had this much trouble from stupid mount. It's been a love hate relationship with my baby lately.

I'm thinking of just replacing the passenger side on my 05 AT. seems like a waste to replace all those other parts and quoted $440 at the stealership.

this is actually very easy.. bought Motor mounts... used a jack and peice of wood to lift motor.. .. Done and Done.. swap was Clean.

Hi,
My driver side engine mount is broken and was going to change it anyways...i was just wondering what is the difference between the driver and passenger side mounts. And can i use the same mounts on both sides....cuz my dealer here doesn't know a damn about the mounts and he is saying that both are the same and can be used on either sides.

Hi,
My driver side engine mount is broken and was going to change it anyways...i was just wondering what is the difference between the driver and passenger side mounts. And can i use the same mounts on both sides....cuz my dealer here doesn't know a damn about the mounts and he is saying that both are the same and can be used on either sides.

i'd find a different dealer, mazda list two different part numbers, and they may look the same, but i dont think you can swap ether or.

well......I may be tackling this. Dealer just said my are toasted. they wnt like 650 bucks (parts + labor)

yikes.

well......I may be tackling this. Dealer just said my are toasted. they wnt like 650 bucks (parts + labor)

yikes.

I just did mine a few days ago. Took me about 1.5 hours for both sides. Once you do one, the other is even quicker. On a scale of 1 to 10 with difficulty, i'd have to say 3 - with the right tools. It's not very hard at all and access to the mounts is very simple. If you switch out the entire bracket then its more time, difficulty may raise a bit because its a tight area to work in.

Good luck!

im only doing the mounts, I may not even do those as I may not even have the car that much longer.