Same as title.

I checked with 3 of my local dealership, asked them about the coil price and some even quote me like 50 bucks each. I was like are you sure man, I thought that its 25 each.

and I forgot what was the New Coil part number? just want to be sure that they got the right newer one, they might give me a price on the old part , u know dealerships are dumb as hell.

Thx.

Rosenthal Mazda in the vendor area sells them for $27

check the vendors... ~ 27 is correct... sorry if my 25buck comment messed you up..

beers :beer:

ITs 29.95 :(

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=RX8M1018

ahh well. might need to get some. mileage is getting like shit now. I have 4 new plugs here. Might as well get some new coil and replace it all together (or should I go complain at the dealership)

OnLineMazdaParts has them for $27.56/ea.

mines are burned out as well.. =(

Thx, I sent them a msg to see if they have it in stock.

sorry my bad, it's OnlineMazdaParts.com (Bagman) who has them for that price

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=109680

ITs 29.95 :(

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=RX8M1018

ahh well. might need to get some. mileage is getting like shit now. I have 4 new plugs here. Might as well get some new coil and replace it all together (or should I go complain at the dealership)

Like it would do any good.

Like it would do any good.

Well, our wonderful coil has a history of dying slowly without any special warning. and its hard as hell to tell if its already dying.

I want to swap some new parts in, its due for a spark plug change anyway so I'll just replace the coils with these enhance ones.

Are we sure the new coils are a design improvement over the old ones?

it was an upgraded part, started in the middle of the what is the problem with this car stage..

check pm..

beers :beer:

How long do the stock coils typically last? 30k miles? 60k miles? Just wondering because I got my 8 used and I have no idea what was replaced before I took ownership, but for only $30 bucks per coil I might as well swap in new ones with a plug change, eh?

How long do the stock coils typically last? 30k miles? 60k miles? Just wondering because I got my 8 used and I have no idea what was replaced before I took ownership, but for only $30 bucks per coil I might as well swap in new ones with a plug change, eh?

kinda luck of the draw.. my guess is that the ones that spend a lot of time idleing in traffic in warm temps fail sooner...

i have 65k miles on mine in fla.. no problems, but i dont sit in traffic..

beers :beer:

Okay, I have 37,500 miles on my 8 and I live in hotter than hell AZ, but I don't sit in too much traffic, but I do get stuck in it every once in a while.
Just wondering if they lasted only 20k miles or something stupid like that.

My impression is that they become suspect around 40K miles. But that is not scientific, by any means, just a gut notion.

Well, I ordered mine already, Its still kinda cold in New York I will just swap it when its warmer.

what are some signs of crappy coils?
i know im due for some spark plugs, but if i knew when coils should be replaced, it might help me out a lot to replace them when im doing the plugs

You might, if you're lucky, get a blinking CEL after a high-rpm event or very cold start where there is some misfiring. Mine started with not being able to pull past 110 mph in 4th gear and eventuated itself in excessive misfiring on cold starts below 20 degrees ambient. Blinking CELs turned into a steady one.

I know how to get to the plugs but I was wondering...How hard are they to actually install? I.E. do you have to gap the plugs? Do you need a special tool due to limited space in the wheel well?

Also, when changing the coil packs. Anything special with removal...Any recommendations? When would we need to replace the plug wires...etc.

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated as I hate putting my car in dealer hands.

TY

Chris

you can get blinking/solid misfire CELs with good coils too, so that's not always the best indicator, the problem is that some coils still test good using the service manual procedure when they're not, I decided not to take any chances and dumped the original coils for the new replacement coils, like somebody else said before, they don't cost any more than spark plugs so just swap them both out at the same time :Eyecrazy:

plugs are a fine wire electrode design and come pre-gapped, just don't drop or hit them on the electrode surface and you'll be fine

pretty much basic hand tools and some patience to remove the coils and plugs, I have a 36" long extension that helps changing the plugs out from the wheel well

the OE plug wires are crap, dump them for a decent aftermarket wire set like 8.8 Magnecor, etc., you won't see any magic here it only eliminates a known weak spot

Great info Team! Thank you!

I am 27k right now and I think my coils are ok but my plugs are questionable. I say this cause when they did the recal they were "supposed" to replace the plugs for me but I have a feeling they took them out looked at them an put them right back in (i.e. same plugs). So I might just buy a whole new set and replace them myself.

Don't know yet... :scared:

mines are burned out as well.. =(
you need new coils?!

you need new coils?!


no, he's referring to his cranial synaptic receptors :lol:

no, he's referring to his cranial synaptic receptors :lol:

(Looks up dictionary.com) :rollingla :rollingla :rollingla :rollingla :rollingla

:Eyecrazy: :Eyecrazy: :Eyecrazy: :Eyecrazy: :Eyecrazy:

I came out of work today and the weather has been pretty nice the past few days, like in the upper 30s-lower40s, and the previously mentioned steady CEL was no longer illuminated. The high rpm misfires were still present and, as Team says, the CEL is no indicator of coil performance. I got a low mileage set from another forum member in the mail today so I put them on. The 8-9K misfire is still there, but not as bad, and the rest of the engne's performance is much improved. My old coils have gray spots on the bottom of them which I am to understand is a sign of arcing. Whatever......I still have some feelers out with different electronics companies to see who wants to build some new H.O. coils for the 8.

Are the coils covered under warranty or are they a 'wear' item? I'm suspecting mine are shot, engine sound throaty+erratic power delivery,e tc..

They are covered...if they feel that they are the problem :)

....I still have some feelers out with different electronics companies to see who wants to build some new H.O. coils for the 8.


CRH,
I don't know if you saw this, noticed it in a magazine I picked up

http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_direct.htm

CRH,
I don't know if you saw this, noticed it in a magazine I picked up

http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_direct.htm

VividRacing sells them, but for like what 700 bux ?

I have all 4 brand new Coil pack sitting next to me now. cost me like a bit over 110 shipped to my door.

Im just gonna try what Team said and get some good wires.

Oh Hey Team, where you got yours from ? Im thinking of the Racing Beat ones.

Thanks, lab. Team and I were talking about that the other day. I would like to try and come up with something I can offer for much less than that and perhaps from a company that has a more well-known track record. I am contacting the company that makes the coils for the CART series cars. A friend of mine builds and dynos those engines and he gave me some leads.

Hey fellas... dumb question... Are there aftermarket coil packs for our car?

ordered 2 sets from onlinemazdaparts last night. :)

Landon - RB makes some

ordered 2 sets from onlinemazdaparts last night. :)

Landon - RB makes some

really, where ? :confused:

really, where ? :confused:

+1 cause I dont see it.

Damn, I was trying to take the whole coil pack out but I just cant the bolts are too tight.

God damn it, I need to buy some deep sockets so I can remove them easier

Oh one more thing. I pull the socket out of the coil, do I just push it all the way in and it will be tight right ?

Dang, I just took it out today, crap it has burnt marks on the back of the coil and the metal rack.

Tried a 20 mile run and the car pulls much harder. I guess I've made the *right* choice. :D

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95044&stc=1 <---- Old Coil packs. :spank:

Gonna order some RB Plug wires, and install it next week or so.

I got 21,000 miles and on the dyno yesterday I found out my Leading1 coil is haveing issues. So to the dealer on Monday for a new one. Warranty.

So is anyony going to tell me where the RB ones can be found?

I looked on the RB website, even under the FD section, and I didn't see any coils offered. Easy, good luck at the dealer on the coil issue.

I'm not aware of any being offered by Racing Beat, nothing on their site

Okada were previously Ignition Solutions, they take an OE coil, open up the top, make a mod, then put a fancy cap on it, I can't swallow a $600 adder

That's certainly a decision to be made isn't it; either bolt-on some supposedly upgraded factory coils at $600-$700 a set or go through the hassle of buying and wiring in an external ignition amp. Unless they are totally different concepts and I am missing the point completely.....? What do you think of the comparison I have made?

Easy, good luck at the dealer on the coil issue.

Just happened to have one of the Techs from the dealer there. He saw the test results on the coil. Should'nt have a problem.

Once I get around to introducing myself to a friend of a friend (who owns a local Mazda dealership), I hope I find myself just as lucky....

Has anyone tried those plasma coils yet?

Has anyone tried those plasma coils yet?

I dont think its really worth it.

@ that kind of price, If I wanna go, I would go like the way MM did, go for AEM or something.

but I think my new coils should be fine for a *long* while now. I'll take it out again in maybe another 26K miles and see if Im getting the same *burnt* mark. Im gonna keep my old one so I can compare them later.

The AEM had problems but the new HKS unit is said to work better.

sorry guys, I was thinking of ignition coils from RB, not coil packs. Speaking of which, should I change out the coil packs at the same time as the wires?

sorry guys, I was thinking of ignition coils from RB, not coil packs. Speaking of which, should I change out the coil packs at the same time as the wires?

You sir are fired! :mad:

damn, guess I gotta go back and get the coil packs as well. Wires should be here some time this week.

Off to hide in shame I go. :(

yes jedi go hide..on another note, mines should be arriving either today or tommorow.

So far the only "upgrade" that might be worth the price are the new factory coils. Other than that anything else is either too new to tell or way too expensive. Vivid has the best price, so far, for the Okada Plasma coils but if you look closely at the photo it seems they have taken the technology from the old Nology wires and put it on the coils this time. I am not convinced, yet, and I seem to remember that the Nology wires caused issues with the factory coils(as in burned them). I could be wrong, though. Anybody else remember?

So far the only "upgrade" that might be worth the price are the new factory coils. Other than that anything else is either too new to tell or way too expensive. Vivid has the best price, so far, for the Okada Plasma coils but if you look closely at the photo it seems they have taken the technology from the old Nology wires and put it on the coils this time. I am not convinced, yet, and I seem to remember that the Nology wires caused issues with the factory coils(as in burned them). I could be wrong, though. Anybody else remember?

Yeah, cuz I was searching for spark plug wires just 2 hours ago, saw couple of posts about Nology wires burnt some of the coils/spark plugs.

ordered the RB one in the end, as soon as its here Im gonna replace the stock wires and plugs with these new wires and new plugs that I brought a while ago.

I think the new factory coil is well worth it, I mean its only like 110 for all 4 ship to your doors, that would be at least another 25K of worry-free driving.

Ok.. Dealer found nothing wrong with the coils cause the 'computer' didn't bring up anything..
Is there a DIY on how to test them myself?

I already ordered the upgraded coils and now I'm debating between OEM wires or RB. Kinnda leaning towards RB since they have yet to let me down (Revi, duct, and exhaust)

thoughts?

Ok.. Dealer found nothing wrong with the coils cause the 'computer' didn't bring up anything..
Is there a DIY on how to test them myself?

Is really, really hard to prove that they're dying because they could be dying and still within the testing spec.

Well, You can try to pull the coils out yourself and see if u can locate any burn mark on the back of the coil, my old one has only about 26K miles on them, but its already pretty *bad* shape, as you can see in my earlier post which you can find it HERE (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=1764873&postcount=37), its alot worst than what you see in the picture. Here is a close up.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95164&stc=1



Notice the middle ? just pull one out and if u see something like this in the middle , talk to your dealer and say look, *its not normal to have burn marks* right ? see if they want to do anything.

Im too lazy and dont want to deal with dealers thats why I would rather pay out of my pocket.

@ that kind of price, If I wanna go, I would go like the way MM did, go for AEM or something.


there you go again, taking one piece of info you read on the forum way back when and then spreading it around as gospel without ever following up on the final result :icon_no2: the only thing you're spreading though is organic fertilizer i.e. bull dookey :spank:

fwiw, he took the AEM ignition off, it doesn't work on the RX-8

let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ... :eyetwitch

One of the few, maybe even the only one, that does work on the RX-8 is the HKS Twin Power, funny that you don't know anything about that one :rolleyes:

there you go again, taking one piece of info you read on the forum way back when and then spreading it around as gospel without ever following up on the final result :icon_no2: the only thing you're spreading though is organic fertilizer i.e. bull dookey :spank:

fwiw, he took the AEM ignition off, it doesn't work on the RX-8

let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ... :eyetwitch

One of the few, maybe even the only one, that does work on the RX-8 is the HKS Twin Power, funny that you don't know anything about that one :rolleyes:

Errr , maybe I should change the way I type and stop confusing people by typing the whole *idea* out in a more clear way.

I know the AEM does NOT work with Rx-8, Hell I look at this site more than my GF .... joking man ! just kidding !!!!!!!!!!!!!

but my point is that, I would rather try something thats *different* and more *complete*

GrrrrrrrrrRRr Sorry if I confuses you and everybody.

We're still cool right ? ;)

I posted HKS a while ago, but its too expensive IMO.

nycgps: couldn't you request reimbursement from MNAO for those coils? Since there's something obviously wrong with them...

Notice the middle ? just pull one out and if u see something like this in the middle , talk to your dealer and say look, *its not normal to have burn marks* right ? see if they want to do anything.

Im too lazy and dont want to deal with dealers thats why I would rather pay out of my pocket.

Yeah, I'll try that. If I let them die on their own, are there any consequences to the rest of the car? Other than it not running and it being a bigger hassle having to flatbed the car there..

Yeah, I'll try that. If I let them die on their own, are there any consequences to the rest of the car? Other than it not running and it being a bigger hassle having to flatbed the car there..

Time is money...In my opinion it would be cheaper to buy the new coils and replace them then to have you car sent to the dealer on a flatbed. The you have to waist time waiting for them to diagnose and replace the coils. Knowing the way dealers work they probably will find a way to only replace one coil.

Then when the rest go bad you have to waist more time dealing with issues. Fixing it yourself is a much better investment in time.

:)

Yeah good point. This is already wasting me two days of driving back and forth.

If you all locate good/costeffective aftermarket coils please post. Or maybe a DIY fix. I will probably need to change mine out soon.

Approaching 30K soon.

you aren't going to do any better than the mid-upper $20 range each for the latest OE ones

fwiw, he took the AEM ignition off, it doesn't work on the RX-8

let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ... :eyetwitch Well, it "works" on the RX-8, but you can't use it without an engine management computer like the Int-X or the EMU. The dwell ends up being wrong and leads to overly-advanced timing as you go up the RPM range.
The real problem is that the unit itself sucks. After less than 9 months, it started blowing its own fuse just like the older AEM C2DI did before the redesign.
I sent it back.

One of the few, maybe even the only one, that does work on the RX-8 is the HKS Twin Power, funny that you don't know anything about that one :rolleyes:The HKS is just a conditioner. It still uses the OEM coils and expects them to be in peak condition to do its thing.
If your coils are failing, a module like the HKS will just fail them faster.

FWIW, brand new OEM coils start to develop "burn" marks on the potting immediately. They will look like they do in the pics in this thread within a few hundred miles.
I'm not convinced that these "burn" marks mean anything.
The only conclusive test is to take a good VOM to the connector.

I'm not even convinced they're burn marks, most of the ones I've seen look more like deposits from moisture/condensation being burned off to me

I wash my engine bay regularly, I'm sure water is getting under there ...



The Twin Power ignition amplifier integrates Capacity Discharge Ignition (CDI) and transistor ignition technology to offer improved throttle response and smoother engine performance by providing optimal spark duration and maximum voltage output. The CDI technology provides maximum voltage by transferring all stored energy in the capacitor to the ignition coil so the ignition current can build quickly, making the Twin Power very effective at higher revs where a normal spark would diminish.

The strong, rapid spark prevents high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power. The transistorized method generates high voltage by using transistors to cut off current to the coil, allowing a long energy discharge. This longer spark duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque. The Twin Power produces a spark output that is typically 1.5-2.5 stronger than a stock ignition system and consumes about 35% less power than other ignition amplifiers. Twin Power DLI, Distributor and Rotary types are CARB exempt (E.O. #D-186-22). The Twin Power DLI II is pending CARB exemption.

I don't see that they're all that different in general concept :dunno:

Well, it "works" on the RX-8, but you can't use it without an engine management computer like the Int-X or the EMU. The dwell ends up being wrong and leads to overly-advanced timing as you go up the RPM range.
The real problem is that the unit itself sucks. After less than 9 months, it started blowing its own fuse just like the older AEM C2DI did before the redesign.
I sent it back.

The HKS is just a conditioner. It still uses the OEM coils and expects them to be in peak condition to do its thing.
If your coils are failing, a module like the HKS will just fail them faster.

FWIW, brand new OEM coils start to develop "burn" marks on the potting immediately. They will look like they do in the pics in this thread within a few hundred miles.
I'm not convinced that these "burn" marks mean anything.
The only conclusive test is to take a good VOM to the connector.

Really hmm.

I have about 200 miles on the new coils already, let me just go for another 300 miles then Im gonna take it out and see whats underneath.

you aren't going to do any better than the mid-upper $20 range each for the latest OE ones

When I say cost effective I mean for an aftermarket solution and I would go as far to say that I would be able to justify around $200 - 300 (for all 4) for something better than stock.

The new stock coils should be somewhat better.

I dont think NA cars need anything more than stock.

The new stock coils should be somewhat better.

I dont think NA cars need anything more than stock.

Who says I'm stayin NA... :rock: :rock: :rock:

I am doing what most people have not...I am building up the ignition, fuel, and cooling systems up first before I do any sort of forced induction. It will be done right and it will be reliable. So far I started with cooling...Next is a radiator then ignition. :ylsuper:

Who says I'm stayin NA... :rock: :rock: :rock:

I am doing what most people have not...I am building up the ignition, fuel, and cooling systems up first before I do any sort of forced induction. It will be done right and it will be reliable. So far I started with cooling...Next is a radiator then ignition. :ylsuper:

Isnt that what you suppose to do ?

but I started outside first .... cuz its alot easier :D

Now Im done with the outside .... next move would be flywheel/clutch

then it would be cooling ... and so on.

Isnt that what you suppose to do ?

but I started outside first .... cuz its alot easier :D

Now Im done with the outside .... next move would be flywheel/clutch

then it would be cooling ... and so on.

Well if you look at the trend "most" tend to strap on a turbo and not upgrade the fuel system till later. At least thats the trend I've been noticing on the forum anyway.

Installed the new coils today. Wow, car is back to normal now. One of the coils had some serious burn marks on the bottom, the rest didn't seem that bad. But the car fires right up now and power delivery is as it should be. RB plug wires go in next as a precaution.

I would have done a diy, but it's pretty obvious. I did have to take the airbox to get to them though.

Installed the new coils today. Wow, car is back to normal now. One of the coils had some serious burn marks on the bottom, the rest didn't seem that bad. But the car fires right up now and power delivery is as it should be. RB plug wires go in next as a precaution.

I would have done a diy, but it's pretty obvious. I did have to take the airbox to get to them though.

thats probably one of the reason why I love my K&N setup.

no blockage ~ Total Access ~ :D: :D:

heh.. interesting.. i wanna see how the car runs now before worrying about intakes. Just put in the RB plug wires. The car started, so that's a good sign. It seems to be idling better, revs don't fluctuate as much. Didn't have time for a drive, so we'll see how that goes later.. Saw a lot of 'white' on the plugs, but it seems that is normal according to the other thread on it.

heh.. interesting.. i wanna see how the car runs now before worrying about intakes. Just put in the RB plug wires. The car started, so that's a good sign. It seems to be idling better, revs don't fluctuate as much. Didn't have time for a drive, so we'll see how that goes later.. Saw a lot of 'white' on the plugs, but it seems that is normal according to the other thread on it.

I think Im going to change my plugs and wires tomorrow morning.

then I will report back.

I just checked my plugs this evening and two of my plugs were nice and brown, but two of them were black and rather coated. One of them was almost 'bridged' with carbon. Soooo...I checked my coils. I dont know if this is logically linked, but two of my coils are not checking out (using TeamRX8's corrected rx8 manual post); my rememberance being the coils hooked to the bad plugs.

Be it as it may, I may not be checking the coils correctly or reading the multimeter correctly, but without doubt two coils are behaving differently from the other two. (Two have several kOhms across +A-B and +B-C while the other two show max resistance between either of these two posts: +C-A is max for all.)

I am assuming that the whole set should be replaced, correct? Makes no sence to do two, right?

I would imagine you're probably best off changing them all out. I just hit 25,000 miles on my car yesterday so I'm swapping out all 4 this weekend.