Hey guys,
About two weeks ago, I bought the Tokico D-Spec Kit from forum member iammemares' ebay auction. Initially, he posted them here in the "forsale" forum. I got them for a great price and they came pretty quick to CA from AZ. Iammemares is a standup guy. He called me to make sure I got the tracking numbers and to ensure I was happy with my purchase.

I used a DIY forum on suspension and springs to help me get them on. There is not much info on here about the Tokico kit and Tokico, themselves, do not publish much information on it either so I'm doing a write up on my impressions.

According to forum member, fisherdn:I talked to tokico again today about the kit -- 1.25" drop all around. Front spring rate is 200, rear 148.

He got much more info from Tokico than I did. I called them to confirm fisherdn's findings and the representative told me he'd email me with the specs...I'm still waiting.

The installation was not too difficult and the spring/shocks work great. The shocks, as many of you already know, are adjustable and the rears have extension cables that allow you to adjust them without taking the wheels off or going under the car. Just pop the trunk and twist. For the fronts, however, the OEM tower bar interferes with the adjustment knobs as it sits just above them. For this, I've divised two possible solutions:
1) I put two locking washers, about the size of 3 threads on the shock bolt, to raise the strut bar slightly so it does not interfere with the "key."
2) I'm thinking about doing this one in addition to the first one--I'm going to add another set of the cable adjusters (intended to adjust the rear shocks/struts) so that I don't even have to use the "key."

With the help of forum member Swoope, I have them dialed in to my liking. Four turns from firm on all corners, provides an almost identical ride to OEM yet mid-corner bumps no longer upset the chasis. Five turns out from firm makes the car ride really smooth--almost Cadillac smooth. This setting is perfect for long cruising speed drives. Any faster, I prefer 4 turns from firm as it provides much more feed back on grip and road conditions IMO.

The springs lower just the right height. The unsightly fender/tire gap is all but gone and the car does not scrape on speed bumps or driveways. I am trying to measure exactly how much they lower, but right now they are still "settling" so it is difficult to get an accurate reading. Also, if anyone can send me OEM measurements from the ground to the center of each wheel well arch, I'll be able to have those figures for those interested?

I believe that the Tokico kit is a very good set up for what I need. I do not Auto-X but I do like to punch hard corners and "launch" my car every now and again. I also do mixed driving (freeway and city) everyday so I ask my suspension to be no more harsh than OEM. The Tokico Kit does not "Jar" or "bounce" as with other lowered cars I have driven in the past. I do not need to "scan" the roads for debris or bumps. The suspension is plenty plush to absorb medium sized potholes without sending a jarring shockwave through the chasis or causing the annoying the "boingy-boingy" effect (actual scientific term). So, if you are looking for an upgrade to your suspension--performance wise--aswell as lowering your car more than 1/2" all around without sacrficing ride quality whatsoever--this is a good kit.

I'll post more once I get those OEM measurements from someone and when my springs settle.

:Peace:

excellent write up, you may have swayed me from konis in the future.

Thanks Dill,
At first, I was hesitant about getting adjustable shocks. My motorcycles have adjustable suspensions and I've rarely messed with them out of fear of not being able to return them to OEM settings and that, dut to my obsessive compusive behavior, I may mess with them TOO much.

The Tokicos are fairly straight forward. All-in-all, you get 7.5 turns and I ony use full rotations.

this thread is worthless without pics! LOL

this thread is worthless without pics! LOL
Awhgh. You got me bro...You see my sig? That's with the kit. But if you really want some pics...give me 5 min.

Okay...these aren't as good as the ones SlipNslide1.3 takes, but I hope they'll do? The first pic was taken by SlipNslide1.3:
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94054
These is my "photography" skillz:
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94053
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94052

Weird how the color changes, no?

thanks bro!
...but pics no work for me, maybe you fix so i see ok. ok? btw, are you comin' out on friday?

cant wait to see the car, no more karting for tomorrow FYI

thanks bro!
...but pics no work for me, maybe you fix so i see ok. ok? btw, are you comin' out on friday?
Sorry, man. I suck at picture taking. Unfortunatley, I cannot get out this week. I've a ton of stuff to catch up on due to a lazy week. :spank:

...that's cool, there's always next week

here is a photo of how i finished the rear adjusters...


and was messing with it today... 4 out front 3 out rear...

beers :beer:

Thanks for the write-up.

I have been trying to decide between Koni and Tokico, and the external adjustability was the main reason I was leaning toward the Tokico. My concern was that they seem to be VERY soft, and the bottom half of the adjustability range is not used at all. It sounds like you are finding an improvement with some upward (firmer) adjustability still left, so that sounds good to me.

I just had my Tokicos (Tein S springs) installed last week. I haven't messed with the adjustments too much, but I appreciate your write up and I'll certainly try the same 4 turns from firm setting to see how it feels. Thanks!

How does the turn-in feel on the D-spec? I do not auto-x or track, but street "sharpness of steering"/"turn-in" is key. After reading the Tokico D-spec vs Koni Yellows thread at the DPE subforum, I am sold on the Koni's because of the description of "turning NOW":

In a quick transition, the Avons on Phil's car (Tokicos) would steer slower, but even after the tires reacted, the suspension was not quite as resolute in what it wanted to do. In my car (Konis), the front end settled and the car headed into the corner NOW.

How does the turn-in feel on the D-spec? I do not auto-x or track, but street "sharpness of steering"/"turn-in" is key. After reading the Tokico D-spec vs Koni Yellows thread at the DPE subforum, I am sold on the Koni's because of the description of "turning NOW":
Turn in is much improved over OEM. Of course, the softer you go--the more ambiguity you will have as far as feedback on grip and sway. I believe that if this is a concern for you and you would like to go wiith the Tokicos (I'm not familiar with the Konis) then a larger diameter sway bar may cure and body flex you may want to avoid.

Turn in is much improved over OEM. Of course, the softer you go--the more ambiguity you will have as far as feedback on grip and sway. I believe that if this is a concern for you and you would like to go wiith the Tokicos (I'm not familiar with the Konis) then a larger diameter sway bar may cure and body flex you may want to avoid.I wonder what the difference in turn-in between Tokicos and Konis really feels like. If the Tokicos improvement is that much over OEM, it good enough that I won't notice the extra edge that Koni adds. I have Whiteline sways and they did help w/ the roll, but not as much w/ the turn-in.

How are the shocks when you turn them up to full stiff?

I wonder what the difference in turn-in between Tokicos and Konis really feels like. If the Tokicos improvement is that much over OEM, it good enough that I won't notice the extra edge that Koni adds. I have Whiteline sways and they did help w/ the roll, but not as much w/ the turn-in.

How are the shocks when you turn them up to full stiff?
I have read that Tokico actually manufactures the OEM struts. So, if anyone has the experience in improving the overall characteristics of the 8 it is Tokico. They have been working with our chasis since the design (R/D) stages.

That said, if you are an Auto-X'er or racer, then I supplose JIC or HKS would be better performace wise. But, if you are like myself--my car is a daily driver and a passenger car--then a slightly stiffer suspension is much appreciated. The adjustability offers a wide variety of dampening for different conditions. On weekends, I have stiffened them up full for hitting up some twisty canon driving. They do not "jar" but are considerably stiffer than my usual "4" turn setting. At full stiff, I have noticed that the car doesn't "wobble," for lack of a better word, around inclined hairpins. The front, also, does not dive under very hard braking. I recently, also, replaced my brake rotors and have been doing the recommend3ed "bedding" procedure. Hard braking at 60 and even 100MPH does not dive as with OEM struts. I have not, however, tried this with my "comfort/4" settings. When I brake hard, on purpose, I am usually on full stiff--about 7 turns. I believe that you can go 7.5 but I don't like to "overturn" my adjustment knobs. After wards, I crank my struts back to "4" and I definatley notice and appreciate the more "civilized" ride.

Last week, I added an extra pair of cable adjusters to the fronts. Now I can adjust all 4 corners without any tools. I just use a small velcro cable tie to keep the adjustment knobs tucked nicely behind and underneath the strut tower brace. It's kinda cool, IMO.

I'm upgrading to the Tokicos also, I was just wondering about the adjustability of the front shocks with the stock shock tower brace on. Are you saying that there is no way to do it? The key won't fit in there at all? Or is it just a tight fit? This is the first time I've seen this mentioned about the Tokicos. If it's impossible to adjust without moving the shock tower brace then I'll probably use the same solution you did (extra set of extention cables). I'd like to get them ordered before starting the project though. Thanks.

I'm upgrading to the Tokicos also, I was just wondering about the adjustability of the front shocks with the stock shock tower brace on. Are you saying that there is no way to do it? The key won't fit in there at all? Or is it just a tight fit? This is the first time I've seen this mentioned about the Tokicos. If it's impossible to adjust without moving the shock tower brace then I'll probably use the same solution you did (extra set of extention cables). I'd like to get them ordered before starting the project though. Thanks.

it works with the stock bar, but not as easy.. i have the greedy bar. straight shot..... after you get it figured out it is really a set it and forget on the street.

but, the extra cables in the front. and lazi.. well. what can you say.. no brainer.

beers :beer:

I'm upgrading to the Tokicos also, I was just wondering about the adjustability of the front shocks with the stock shock tower brace on. Are you saying that there is no way to do it? The key won't fit in there at all? Or is it just a tight fit? This is the first time I've seen this mentioned about the Tokicos. If it's impossible to adjust without moving the shock tower brace then I'll probably use the same solution you did (extra set of extention cables). I'd like to get them ordered before starting the project though. Thanks.
Swoope's right. Once you've found your "sweet" spot for your driving needs, then there really isn't a need to mess with them further.

As far as your concern about cables and strut bar clearances--I suppose if you tweak with the strut bar enough, you can get it so you can use the key without using washers. Initially, I had it so one side allowed the use of the key and the other side just would not clear the key. The key is like an allen wrench than needs to be poked into the top of the strut. As the clearance was, it would not angle correclty to put the key in. That's why I added a washer on each bolt. It does not raise it much, just a few threads on the bolt.

The cables I'm now using upfront are cool. They're only $25 bucks or something like that from Mazdatrix or Racingbeat.

Swoope's right. Once you've found your "sweet" spot for your driving needs, then there really isn't a need to mess with them further.

As far as your concern about cables and strut bar clearances--I suppose if you tweak with the strut bar enough, you can get it so you can use the key without using washers. Initially, I had it so one side allowed the use of the key and the other side just would not clear the key. The key is like an allen wrench than needs to be poked into the top of the strut. As the clearance was, it would not angle correclty to put the key in. That's why I added a washer on each bolt. It does not raise it much, just a few threads on the bolt.

The cables I'm now using upfront are cool. They're only $25 bucks or something like that from Mazdatrix or Racingbeat.
After reading this thread yesterday, and wanting to finally adjust my shocks I went out and messed with them a bit. I agree, with your assessment on the front shocks. Though I was able to get the key in and out of there, it would be way easier with some cables up front too. I'm going to get another set of cables for my front now.

I have a question for you. Where are your rear cables mounted? I mean, are they loose, or are they mounted to the thin plasticy-carpety stuff in the trunk, etc?

Thanks for the info guys. I think I'll see how it works with the key and the stock bar first and add a second set of cables later if I need to. One quick question, I won't have the shocks until Thursday, so I haven't actually seen the adjustment mechanism yet. If I decide to add cables up front, is it easy? Just screw them on? Will I have to remove the tower bar (not a big deal)? Or, will I have to pull the shock out? I'm assuming from what you've said it's easy to add the cables up front, I just want to verify. Thanks.

After reading this thread yesterday, and wanting to finally adjust my shocks I went out and messed with them a bit. I agree, with your assessment on the front shocks. Though I was able to get the key in and out of there, it would be way easier with some cables up front too. I'm going to get another set of cables for my front now.

I have a question for you. Where are your rear cables mounted? I mean, are they loose, or are they mounted to the thin plasticy-carpety stuff in the trunk, etc?
TD,
No, I didn't cut the trunk liner. I've got the rears running through a hole in the frame and the just peek out of the top of the liner. Swoope's set us us much more convienient and clean. With mine, I have to reach way back and look at the knobs with a flashlight. I didn't want to cut the liner and there is a big gap between the top of the liner and the "roof" of the trunk, so I just have them sticking out about 1/5".


Thanks for the info guys. I think I'll see how it works with the key and the stock bar first and add a second set of cables later if I need to. One quick question, I won't have the shocks until Thursday, so I haven't actually seen the adjustment mechanism yet. If I decide to add cables up front, is it easy? Just screw them on? Will I have to remove the tower bar (not a big deal)? Or, will I have to pull the shock out? I'm assuming from what you've said it's easy to add the cables up front, I just want to verify. Thanks.

The strut bar removes by unbolting two 12mm nuts on each side. VERY easy. Just make sure to put some blue (semi-permanent/removable) locktite on afterwards. The cable just screws on the top of the shock. Nothing but removing the strut brace is required. Just hand tighten them with a drop of lock tite. You will have to zip-tie or velcro tie them down after wards as they will point up and mess with your hood.

TD,
No, I didn't cut the trunk liner. I've got the rears running through a hole in the frame and the just peek out of the top of the liner. Swoope's set us us much more convienient and clean. With mine, I have to reach way back and look at the knobs with a flashlight. I didn't want to cut the liner and there is a big gap between the top of the liner and the "roof" of the trunk, so I just have them sticking out about 1/5".

Cool, thanks. I was just curious, my setup is exactly like yours. I didn't want to cut the liner either, so they're just hidden a bit until I need to adjust them.

Great setup, now you have me wanting to get them. I wonder if I sould get them with Tokico springs and ditch the Eibachs. Oh, and the stock shock are stamped Tokico on the side.

I have read that Tokico actually manufactures the OEM struts. So, if anyone has the experience in improving the overall characteristics of the 8 it is Tokico. They have been working with our chasis since the design (R/D) stages. .


you know, I try to stay out of these types of threads and let people have their fun, but when I read off-the-wall crap like this it just boils me over the top, especially when all the lemmings join hands and gleefully follow along :Eyecrazy:

You bought some thing you like and that's OK, but leave it at that. You haven't been on anything else, you don't understand anything more than the general basics about shocks and how they work, and posting statements like that you know even less about shock manufacturers :hahano:

you know, I try to stay out of these types of threads and let people have their fun, but when I read off-the-wall crap like this it just boils me over the top, especially when all the lemmings join hands and gleefully follow along :Eyecrazy:

You bought some thing you like and that's OK, but leave it at that. You haven't been on anything else, you don't understand anything more than the general basics about shocks and how they work, and posting statements like that you know even less about shock manufacturers :hahano:

I don't understand the point of that post? Please explain.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/Onlyonthurs/ohsnap.jpg

easy there killer. :yesnod:

this is not in the comp section... phantom will figure it out soon enough..

the dspecs are great shocks for those that are not into hardcore auto x or track days.. or those that are not trying to get the last .10 out of a car or tire or shock...

for 95% they are just fine, team is at the 99.5% level. he really is, as a couple of others. so dont take it to hart...

btw,

i dont post my sig in the comp section. i figure it cannot benefit anyone..


beers :beer:


you know, I try to stay out of these types of threads and let people have their fun, but when I read off-the-wall crap like this it just boils me over the top, especially when all the lemmings join hands and gleefully follow along :Eyecrazy:

You bought some thing you like and that's OK, but leave it at that. You haven't been on anything else, you don't understand anything more than the general basics about shocks and how they work, and posting statements like that you know even less about shock manufacturers :hahano:
:yesnod:

you know, I try to stay out of these types of threads and let people have their fun, but when I read off-the-wall crap like this it just boils me over the top, especially when all the lemmings join hands and gleefully follow along :Eyecrazy:

You bought some thing you like and that's OK, but leave it at that. You haven't been on anything else, you don't understand anything more than the general basics about shocks and how they work, and posting statements like that you know even less about shock manufacturers :hahano:
Did I miss something? I said I read somewhere that...etc, etc. I never claimed it to be my own findings. I guess when it comes time to assert "superiority" because one autocrosses--you "gotta do what you gotta do, no?" I was even thinking of writing "correct me if I'm wrong" after that statement...I guess I should include that clause in everytime I pass along something I read so hot-shot auto-crossers don't get offended.

I never claimed to be an authority on shocks....the limited experience I do have with shocks are with motorcycle suspensions and I rarely tooled around with those unless I went on a track day. And the suspensions systems on my bikes are uplgraded to Ohlins from Showa. So what do you mean, I have "never been on anything else?" And exactly what is your problem with my statement besides trying to make yourself sound like a "look-at-me-I-know-it-all-because-I use-the-word-autocross-in-my-title?" Take it easy there paperbag man...you can just post what erroneous information that I, undoubtly, messed up without being a dick about it.

Okay, I get it! You Auto-X. BFD. Do you feel like a really "big-tough" guy now? Geez. You need to trade that paper bag in for a pastic one...

Did I miss something? I said I read somewhere that...etc, etc. I never claimed it to be my own findings. I guess when it comes time to assert "superiority" because one autocrosses--you "gotta do what you gotta do, no?" I was even thinking of writing "correct me if I'm wrong" after that statement...I guess I should include that clause in everytime I pass along something I read so hot-shot auto-crossers don't get offended.

I never claimed to be an authority on shocks....the limited experience I do have with shocks are with motorcycle suspensions and I rarely tooled around with those unless I went on a track day. And the suspensions systems on my bikes are uplgraded to Ohlins from Showa. So what do you mean, I have "never been on anything else?" And exactly what is your problem with my statement besides trying to make yourself sound like a "look-at-me-I-know-it-all-because-I use-the-word-autocross-in-my-title?" Take it easy there paperbag man...you can just post what erroneous information that I, undoubtly, messed up without being a dick about it.

Okay, I get it! You Auto-X. BFD. Do you feel like a really "big-tough" guy now? Geez. You need to trade that paper bag in for a pastic one...


Word.

Word.
*In an artificial baritone* Yeah! And *voice starts to crack into an alto* furthermore...you better not let me see you with that paper bag off yer head, either. Or there'll be reprocussions and static...:cussing:

My name is Mark, I am the guy that sold the kit to PM.

I was happy to hear it all worked out.

I am the one who mentioned the history of Tokico and the FACT that they are the OE supplier.

Paper bag boy needs to read up a bit. I wont waste your time with the details, suffice to say I am very familiar with the OE setup and development process. Tokico is the supplier.

Hey PM, did you get my last email describing how to determine the front from rear springs? Were they installed correctly the first time or not?

I agree that though the Dspecs may not be "race shocks", they are well done and very usefull for the majority of owners.

Thanks again PM for the props.

My name is Mark, I am the guy that sold the kit to PM.

I was happy to hear it all worked out.

I am the one who mentioned the history of Tokico and the FACT that they are the OE supplier.

Paper bag boy needs to read up a bit. I wont waste your time with the details, suffice to say I am very familiar with the OE setup and development process. Tokico is the supplier. YEAH!--paperbag boy! And furthermore...:bootyshak

Hey PM, did you get my last email describing how to determine the front from rear springs? Were they installed correctly the first time or not?Thanks MM. Yeah, they're good. I was meaning to email you. Swoope sent me copies of the manual, so if you can't find it--it's okay.

I agree that though the Dspecs may not be "race shocks", they are well done and very usefull for the majority of owners. Yeah--Paperbag boy! Furthermore... :bootyshak

Thanks again PM for the props.
No, no. Thank you! I still get giddy--like a 12 year old girl--when I think of the heaps of cash you SAVED me! :evil_laug If not for you, I would've had to settle for just springs. Instead, I got brand-spanking-new Springs & Struts! I'm just surprised that no one else jumped on them--cause as soon as Swoope sent me the link--I was all over that auction like white on rice; like Michael Jackson on Mccully Culkin; like Delta Burke on a all-you-can-eat buffet table...well you get the picture!

It's good to see you still come online and visit us rotor-heads, MM. :Peace:

My name is Mark, I am the guy that sold the kit to PM.

I was happy to hear it all worked out.

I am the one who mentioned the history of Tokico and the FACT that they are the OE supplier.

Paper bag boy needs to read up a bit. I wont waste your time with the details, suffice to say I am very familiar with the OE setup and development process. Tokico is the supplier.

Hey PM, did you get my last email describing how to determine the front from rear springs? Were they installed correctly the first time or not?

I agree that though the Dspecs may not be "race shocks", they are well done and very usefull for the majority of owners.

Thanks again PM for the props.

where is my cut?

and dont be to hard on team. i has forgot more than we combined know...

it is just a street, track thing...

beers :beer:

I will still check in occasionally.

Want to keep track on the lastest thinking.

I do however have my eye on a future product. As I mentioned, I am deeply involved in OE Chassis Development (not for Mazda) and have it on fairly good authority that Mazda is going to be launching a Miata based FR 2 seater COUPE. Power plant is not clear right now. Maybe base models have the current Miata engine, speed models maybe have the speed 3 turbo. Pricing in the low to mid 20s. Now were talking about something I could get interested in. Nissan is also suspected to be preparing an inexpensive FR coupe.

I am sure it has been discussed here, but how does Mazda reconcile having a Wagon (speed3) that will outperform (at least in a straight line) its own sports car.

I just spent some time driving a Speed 3. For the dollars, this is a raging deal. Yes, I know it is wrong wheel drive. Yes I know it wont work as well on a track. But this is not the mission of this car. It is not as sophisticated or well done as a GTI, (which may be the best handling FF ever built) but a whole lotta fun for less than 25K.

more to come.

Take care rotor heads,

Mark