i am an audio noob. so i am wondering if i am missing anything else in my current set up, any suggestions or feedbacks would be great, thanks guys. oh by the way i have a 05 base model.

front deck:
Alpine SPR-57LS 2 way 5x7 component.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=SPR-57LS
rear deck:
Alpine SPS-69C2 2 way 6x9 coaxial.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=SPS-69C2
Amp to power the speakers:
Alpine MRP-F450 4/3/2 channel amp.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=MRP-F450
Subs:
two Alpine SWR-1022D w/ two 4080 boxes.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=SWR-1022D
Amp to power the subs:
Alpine MRD-M1005 mono power amp.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=MRD-M1005
i am using Boss 2 farad capacitor
http://www.bossaudio.com/home/catalog/public_html/print/productSpecDetails.php?product_id=243

i am also getting a PIE adapter for my Sirius S-50 satellite radio.
so do i need anything else other than wires and dynamat?

line converter

the alpine F450 amp has speaker level input. :)

dont forget the flux capacitor

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/nl/thumb/9/96/Flux1.jpg/200px-Flux1.jpg

haha i know you would get to this thread eventually.

=)

Boss sucks... why are you buying a Boss capacitor? Only company I would trust is stinger...

They can say that it is a 1 farad capacitor, but what you have to take in mind is at what temperature that capacitor is running... Some companies cheat the system, and "test" their capacitors at 30 degrees... We all know our trunks are alot colder than that...

I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I'm just really picky about details...

i went with boss because jedi54 did his homework on his audio set up, and thats what he ended up using. i trust 'em jedi power i guess. :)

i would suggest yo go components in the front and back. i've got cerwin vega 5x7 in the front and 6x9 in the rear, but they don't give as much treble aws the tweeter in this components. i also suggest the eathquake 2 farab cap. the boss isn't a good make. :ylsuper:

F it dude, just get a 10 farad!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-FARAD-CAPACITORS-PLEXIGLASS-HYBRID-CHROME-CAPACITOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38636QQihZ001 QQitemZ110075102012QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

lol holy shit i dont think i need 10 farad. and as for using components front and rear, thats the first ive ever heard of. people ive talked to all said to use components front deck, and coaxials fro the rear deck. but i am look into that. thanks guys.

You could replace your battery with a 10 farad....lol

BRGREEN: don't sweat the capacitor. the Boss is capable of handling this system setup... trust me. :)

Looks like you've got pretty much everything you're going to need for this stereo install. I need to go back and see what kind of wiring I used and we need to figure out whether we're getting a fuse for that system or if you want to run a circtit like Rasp and I have.

Oh boy.... this is gonna be a fun install.

this is what i have so far.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2540/002hi9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/8357/003qi5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/4535/004of0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/8616/005do1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/5337/006kh7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/7672/007vw3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/2567/008rs5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5526/009uq5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5980/010xq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/4163/011ax2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

BRGREEN: don't sweat the capacitor. the Boss is capable of handling this system setup... trust me. :)

Looks like you've got pretty much everything you're going to need for this stereo install. I need to go back and see what kind of wiring I used and we need to figure out whether we're getting a fuse for that system or if you want to run a circtit like Rasp and I have.

Oh boy.... this is gonna be a fun install.

yes yes, its going to be a very fun install. hahahahaha. good thing rasp is " the master installer ". :)

Please dont forget to credit the person who made the audio recommendation..

Please dont forget to credit the person who made the audio recommendation..


you mean the asshole who made me complately change my set up and made me spend more money than i expected???? do you really want me to mention that ? :cussing: :p:
well good call on that second amp with speakers level adjustment though.

did you get the dynamat yet?

where did you get the sub box from?

jedi: no i havent gotten the dynamat, as of now i dont even know what they are goig to do with my car.
jzrx8: search for 4080, he custom makes the boxes i have.

I heard the good news about your car...now go order that dynamat! :)

F dynamat overrated and over priced

get some fatmat on ebay!

dynamat is cheap on ebay though. and whats fatmat? anybody heard of it?

through experience i would suggest replaceing your factory batt. with and optima red or yellow top and upgrading your factory grounds rather than a cap. Due to the 8 having a weak electrical system. I have a four channel and a 500 watt monoblock. with a 5 farrad cap i was reading 9 volts with the system bumping then i added a red top and that brought it up to 11v at full volume.

btw fat mat is crap it basically takes three layers to equal 1 layer of dynamat. I have used both and found dynamat to be much better you can read reviews on sound deadeners at caraudio.com.

Dont' use imitation dynamat....I've seen it and it's not very good.

I went w/ Damplifier from Second Skin Audio (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi) because of this comparison (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/) and I am completely satisfied.

I used it and some Dynamat Extreme that I already had and they seem very comparable.

11v? Somethingis still wrong there buddy

my stock setup is pushing 13.2v...
when sub hits it rarely dips below 13.0

Keep in mind this reading is at the amp im still not satisfied and im adding another small drycell in the trunk and droping the cap

ill update with pictures when i get it installed sometime this week, if not then next week.

so what do you guys say for wires? 0 gauge for power, 6 or 8 gauge for sub, and 16 gauge for speakers ?
p.s. i got dynamat extreme bulk.

0 guage is a waste, trust me. Audio shops love to use it but its' reallly not all that necessary. I believe I went with 6 guage for my subs and it's more then sufficient for the power I'm pushing.

jedi: no i havent gotten the dynamat, as of now i dont even know what they are goig to do with my car.
jzrx8: search for 4080, he custom makes the boxes i have.

4080 on the forums? I'm curious where that box goes... can't wait for your install pics.

4080 is his forum name. He hardly posts but if you send him a PM, he'll get back to you. (might take a few days, he's on numerous forums)

I think four gauge power and 10 for the subs sould be good.

actually the audio shop is going to run 2 four gauge JL audio wires.

actually the audio shop is going to run 2 four gauge JL audio wires.
:cussing: :spank: :rant: :wallbash: :Kill2: :Kill1:
Why do stereo shops insist on using such thick wiring for stuff like this, I'll never understand.
Have you actually talked with your installer to see where he's planning on running those wires? Good luck getting that inside the of the door panel things... (when you open door, the plastic panels where the wires go) Sorry, can't think of thw word right now.

My 6 guage barely fit in there.

oh no, he is running 2 four gauge wires from power to amp? ( i think ), he was gonna do a 4 gauge for my mono and 6 for my 4 channel. but to be on the safe side he is doing 2 four gauges. hey jedi so how do your bass get inside the cabin?
or does the trunk just rattles like crazy? thats my installer's main concern, he said because the way the boxes are made ( and facing ). its gonna be hard for the bass ( the air ) to find a place to get inside the cabin.

:cussing: :spank: :rant: :wallbash: :Kill2: :Kill1:
Why do stereo shops insist on using such thick wiring for stuff like this, I'll never understand.
Have you actually talked with your installer to see where he's planning on running those wires? Good luck getting that inside the of the door panel things... (when you open door, the plastic panels where the wires go) Sorry, can't think of thw word right now.

My 6 guage barely fit in there.

My 2 gauge JL wire fits easily.

so here is the update.
i am running 5x7 Alpine type R components in the front deck. ( 60 RMS watts )
6x9 Alpine type S coaxials in the rear deck. ( 50 RMS watts )
Alpine F450 4 channel amp to power the speakers. ( 100 RMS watts per channel )
Alpine M-1005 mono channel to power the two subs ( 1000 RMS watts )
2 Alpine type R 10 inch Dual 2ohm subs. ( 500 RMS watts each )
Mazdaparts.com P.I.E. adapter for my Sirius S-50 satellite radio.
2 Four Gauge wires from power to amp. ( might do one 6 gauge for the F450 though )
Odessey Black top battery.
Boss Audio 2 farad capacitor.
JL audio wires.
Dynamat extreme for trunk, license plate, door panels, and headliner.
i should have my car back this friday ( had to get engine replaced under warranty )
the install should be next tuesday ( gotta call and find out if the audio shop can do it next tuesday ).
hopefully i will have pictures of my system by next weekend.

hey jedi so how do your bass get inside the cabin?
or does the trunk just rattles like crazy?
Hardly ANY noticable rattle with my install. I dynamatted EVERY possible spot I could get to in the trunk...even way up into the wheel wells.

thats my installer's main concern, he said because the way the boxes are made ( and facing ). its gonna be hard for the bass ( the air ) to find a place to get inside the cabin
Are you kidding me?! He actually said that? :wallbash: Having seperate boxes like that is better then a bandpass box where the subs are fighting for air. Trust me, this set up is ideal for our car. Have your installer hear my system. :rock:

I still say run a main power line and fuse it up to a distro block and do the same with the ground..

Hardly ANY noticable rattle with my install. I dynamatted EVERY possible spot I could get to in the trunk...even way up into the wheel wells.


Are you kidding me?! He actually said that? :wallbash: Having seperate boxes like that is better then a bandpass box where the subs are fighting for air. Trust me, this set up is ideal for our car. Have your installer hear my system. :rock:

well you have to remember, he is saying this based out of his exprience with other cars. as he hasnt done an install on a RX8 yet, and has no idea how our trunk looks like.

has no idea how our trunk looks like.
Send him pics of my install.... :rock:

Status =

status = caca

I'm calling NALIN on this thread!!!

it is a nalin thread

Pics or BS/Ban

ill take & post pictures when i wake up, i just got it back today.

nice collection @ brgreen

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http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9602/img3457mq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7407/img3458ob3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/1108/img3459ws6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/6453/img3460mg2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/6656/img3461yq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

nice, now all you need to do is clean up that trunk... you dont wanna scratch up that speaker screen and capacitor

Had my trunk redone because I didn't like the way they did the box and mounting for the 12w7.

looks awsome!

congrats

and you guys were calling Nalin..

hah.

nice setup, looks great.

-Cody

hmmmmmm, that set up looks AWFULLY familiar.... what a GREAT place to put that capacitor! How ever did you think of that???

haha that was thanks to someone with great jedi power!
all hail jedi. :worship:

very nice!! like the setup :icon_tup: just clean the mess up :D:

wow you managed to copy jedi's setup! looks nice nonetheless